Combining shirt collars and tie knots can be tricky, and could either enhance your look or make you appear sloppy! Today, we’ll discuss how to pair them together to best highlight your face.

The three popular tie knots that we’re going to be covering today will be the Full Windsor, the Half Windsor, and the Four-in-Hand knot. We’ll also be covering three popular shirt collars; the button-down collar, the spread collar, and the forward-point collar (also occasionally referred to as the “classic” collar).

Tie Knot and Shirt Collar Pairing Mistakes

A tie knot that is too small

• Pairing the slimmest tie knot with the widest collar possible. This looks quite sloppy because the small knot and wide collar are exposing the part of the tie that loops around the neck. Overall, the outside border of the tie knot should correspond with the inside border of your collar.
• Making tie knots too bulky. This looks a little bit more whimsical and it’s tougher to take people seriously. Having a tie knot that’s aggressively pushing its way out from under the collar isn’t a good look.
• Choosing the wrong tie length. If you’re a very tall man and you’re not wearing the appropriate length of  tie, your tie might look too short for you. Also, if you happen to be a shorter gentleman and your tie is too long, this also looks incorrect. This problem can be mitigated by making sure that you’re using a tie knot that better utilizes the fabric of the tie itself–but keep in mind, this can also cause a situation where the tie knot is not properly harmonizing with the collar that you’re wearing. The best solution to fix this is to make sure that you’re buying the correct size tie for you.

This Full Windsor knot is balanced by the spread collar, but is perhaps still somewhat large

Tips for Pairing Tie Knots and Shirt Collars

Remember, the key with any tie knot and collar combination is to ensure that you’re not exposing the part of the tie that loops around your neck. Therefore. it’s important to understand the best size of the shirt collar.

Find Your Neck Size

If you don’t already own a measuring tape, you can find one at your local craft store, tailor shop, or even online. Step in front of the mirror, hold your measuring tape around your neck with one hand, and then with the other hand, hold it firmly against your neck. With your second hand, hold the measuring tape around your neck, and use your index fingers to keep a space between the tape and your neck.

A basic tape measure will be the only tool you need to find your neck size

Once you do this, the number you see on the tape is going to reflect the best size you should be purchasing for your shirt collars. If you feel like you’re not getting consistent measurements, ask a friend to help you out–or you could always stop into your local tailor shop and ask for assistance in discovering your correct size. Once you’ve discovered your correct size, you can start shopping for different shirt options.

Find The Right Shirt Collar for Your Face Shape

Always keep in mind that a lot of different collar options are available and some come in different heights.

Taller collar for a longer neck

If you’re someone who has a longer neck, it might be easier for you to wear a taller collar, and if you’re somebody with a shorter neck, it might be a bit easier for you to wear a shorter collar. When shopping for different shirt collars, one important component will be knowing your face shape. It is best to actually shop for a shirt collar which somewhat differs from your overall face shape.

So for example, if you’re somebody with round face shape, it might be beneficial for you to try wearing something more linear with your shirt collar, try wearing the forward point collar. If you have an oval-shaped face, it might be quite easy for you to find different options for you to consider for your shirt collars.

Shorter collar for a shorter neck

Depending on the width of your jawline, a bit of a square-shaped face, you might find the forward point or the button-down collar to be great options for you.

Tips on Tie Materials:

A few different popular materials for different ties that you might find in stores will be things like cashmere, silk, wool, and cotton. Whichever season you might find yourself in when shopping may impact the materials that are available. Also, the tie knot that you plan on wearing will also play a role in helping you decide which material you end up selecting.

For example, using silk allows for much more fluidity with different twists and turns, which occur when wearing a Full Windsor knot, for example. Whereas cotton and linen ties will look great when tied as a Four-in-Hand style.

Pairing Knots and Collars: Examples

Again, it’s important to pay attention to scale when you’re pairing tie knots and shirt collars together. Here are a few (poor) examples:

• Full Windsor knot with a button-down collar: Here, the knot itself will look quite stuffed between the two points of the collar. As such a smaller knot like a Four-in-Hand would be better.
• Four-in-Hand knot with a spread collar: This combination, meanwhile, will result in a lot of empty space on either side of the tie knot. Remember, the outer borders of the tie knot should meet with the inner borders of the collar. A Full or Half Windsor knot would be better. Also, remember to select a combination of which best supports your face shape, your collar, and your tie knot.

More Combinations For Different Occasions

The forward point will look great for an office job, or perhaps a conservative job interview. If you work in finance, maybe try wearing the spread collar or the semi-spread collar. For those church and graduation occasions, go ahead and try a button-down collar.

A Word About “Modern” Tie Knots

There are also other tie knots that some gentlemen like to wear which are seen as conversation starters; three of these happen to be the Eldredge knot, the Vidalia, and the Tulip knot. Being proponents of classic style, we wouldn’t explicitly recommend these tie knots outside of occasional playful settings.

The Eldredge knot, one of the more modern tie knots that won’t work well in many conservative settings

CONCLUSION

Just remember, whenever in doubt, always stick with the classic shirt collar options and tie knot options. For example, having a Four-in-Hand tie knot with a forward-point collar or a button-down collar.

Know your face shape and your neck size to help narrow down which options you should be paying attention to. Experiment with other shirt collars and tie knot options and see what you might enjoy.

What’s your favorite tie knot and shirt collar pairing? Let us know in the comments section!

The holidays are upon us once again, and as you join your family in celebration as the snow graces the ground with a glass of fine brandy and a roaring fire warming you, we hope that everyone’s wishes are met this year. Therefore, we proudly present a curated selection of gift ideas we’ve seen this year and ones we are certain will cast a warm glow as they are opened this holiday season. With prices ranging from just a few dollars to many thousands of dollars, this list is sure to meet every budget for the most discerning gentlemen this holiday season.

From our family to yours, we wish you the warmest of holiday greetings to everyone celebrating this festive season.

$0 – $100

Necktie Travel Roll Case, $12

Handheld Oregon Trail Game, $17

The Shaveworks Cool Fix is a treatment for sensitive skin post-shave

Shaveworks The Cool Fix

Tile Tracker, $26

Cocktail Muddler

Highball Wood Cocktail Muddler, $27

Rope Leash

Rope Dog Leash, $54

Carbon Steel Pan, $58

Leatherman Multi-Tool

Leatherman Rebar Multi-Tool, $60

Wool-Silk Pocket Squares, from $60

National Parks Candle Set

National Parks Candle Set, $68

Black Tie Accessories from Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere Black Tie Accessories $35-105

• Black Satin Shoelaces $20
• Red Carnation Boutonniere $35
• White Linen Pocket Square $45
• Black Silk Socks $70
• Black Silk Bow Tie $105

Gifts $100-300

Real Balsamic Vinegar

Real Balsamic Vinegar, $180

Shun Premier Chef Knife

Shun Premier Chef’s Knife, $185

We’ve tested numerous chef knives for our past articles on food and dining. There are many we like such as the Wustoff knives from Germany, the Evercut Furtif from France, but the one we like the most is the Shun 8” Premier chef’s knife from Japan. It is lightweight, surgically sharp, easy to use, and comfortable for most hands. What really makes it a stunning investment piece is how beautiful it looks on the counter with the stunning dark wood handle, its gold cap, and the layered Damascus cladding with a hammered tsuchime finish. Shun Chef’s Knife.

Authentic OConnells Fair Isle Vest

Fair Isle Vest, $195

Black Watch Tartan Cashmere Scarf in Green & Blue

Black Watch Tartan Cashmere Scarf, $195

MasterClass, $199

Smoking Cloche, $200

HydroPeccary Gloves from Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere HydroPeccary Gloves, $315

Gifts $300-500

Frasco Shaving Mirror

Frasco 7.5″ Double-Sides 3X Shaving Mirror, $375

Made in Germany, this mirror from Frasco helps a gentleman safely shave and groom himself while being able to examine every hair and pore. With a normal reflection on one side and a 3x magnification on the other, the mirror can be moved up and down as well as tilted to find the best view in any bathroom. Frasco Shaving Mirror.

Creed Green Irish Tweed, $415

Tom Ford Ian Classic Round Sunglasses, $435

Pelikan M600 Fountain Pen in Bordeaux

Pelikan M600 Souveran Fountain Pen in Bordeaux

Pelikan is known for making some of the most elegant and well-respected fine writing instruments in the world. Most will recognize their hallmark striped fountain pens in green and blue, but only the most serious collectors seem to be familiar with the bordeaux version. This deep and enchanting red pen features Pelikan’s notable black pinstripes. With a black resin cap and gold clip and nib, this is one pen that will continue to fetch compliments from those you admire. The M600 Souveran is a mid-sized fountain pen that is perfect for most hand sizes. Not overly large, but not small either, it will fit perfectly in your jacket’s pen pocket, on your desk as a showpiece, or in your attache to serve you at the most important meetings of your life. Pelikan M600 Fountain Pen in Bordeaux.

Gifts $500+

Brass & Beechwood Telescope, $600

Classic Silk Pajama Set, $885

Heinrich Dinkelacher Lambskin-Lined Cordovan Brogue Boot, $1135

Trialmaster Panther Leather Jacket, $1795

While the look of the Trialmaster is pleasing, it is better suited to mild temperatures

What have been your favorite gifts to give and receive in past years? What would you select on this list if you could pick anything?

Buyer’s remorse is a thing that happens to all of us. Today, I’ll share what I regret having spent money on.

As I shared before in my lessons from being broke, I didn’t have much money growing up, and that would continue into my 20s. Because of that, I learned to be really frugal, to look for deals, and to identify quality (especially on used goods) so I could get the best value for my money. However, I’ve still had my share of regrets about buying some things, and I’ll list 20 of them today.

What Are The Things I Wish I Hadn’t Bought?

1. Gillette Mach 3

The first item I regret buying is a cartridge razor system. It’s what my dad used, what he taught me how to shave with, and so I just continued using it. Once during an internship in Hungary in 2006, I bought a package of razors that turned out to be fake Mach 3s; they were quite expensive, and my face looked like a mess after I shaved with them.

Gillette Mach 3

Over the years, I probably spent hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars on Gillette products. I got a mediocre shave–until I discovered the double edge razor and what a positive difference it could make.

2. Car Bike Rack

I really regret buying a bike rack for our car, as we probably used it three times and never thereafter (because we just bike locally). I sold it at a garage sale, at a big loss.

A bicycle rack for our car (similar to the one pictured) wasn’t worth it for us

3. Hawaiian Jacket

I bought a Polo jacket that had a light background and flowery big paisleys in 2006 at Macy’s. Since retail practices in Germany were different than those in the US, I wasn’t accustomed to retailers having stuff 80 or 90% off, so I was tempted by big sales. I think the jacket was marked down 90 or 95%, and I just bought it for $40 or so–but I wore it a whopping zero times.

Hawaiian Jacket

In other words, the cost-per-wear was indefinitely high. Eventually, my wife made me throw it away, and I just cut off the mother-of-pearl buttons, which I still have to this day.

4. Bosch Microwave

In 2012, my wife and I bought a condo. We had the kitchen remodeled, we got a nice Bosch oven, and then got a matching Bosch microwave. Whether or not they were actually the manufacturer (as opposed to the label being licensed), we paid $800 for that thing, and it broke down and was complete garbage two days after the warranty expired. From that day on, I swore never to buy a Bosch microwave ever again.

Bosch Microwave

5. White Suit with Mao Collar

In 2002, for my high school graduation, I wanted to be different, so I found a cool suit on eBay. It was all white, and had four or five front closing buttons and a Mao collar. I bought it for around $100, and I wore it in combination with a black belt, black shoes, and a white shirt with a wing collar. Check out the picture here, it looked horrible! The pants were puddling, too. But hey, that’s how I got interested in menswear and it just got better thereafter. Looking back, it was a pretty pathetic look, but I stood out from the crowd!

Raphael’s White suit

6. Cashmere Socks

The first time I touched a pair of cashmere socks, I thought “Wow. This is amazing.” They were super soft, and cost over $100. Eventually, I realized because they were so smooth, they were also more prone to slip down my calves, and so they would always hang around my ankles. When I wore them with boots, they would go all the way into the boot, and so it was just a pain. Moreover, they got holes very easily, and so I just had to throw them away after around 6 months.

Purple cashmere socks

Don’t get me wrong! I like cashmere for sweaters, for scarves, and so on. For socks, though, I have never found a combination with blends that has the same characteristics of cotton or wool. Also, I found cashmere was just not as absorbent. When it was worn, it was just a weird sock.

7. One-Size-Fits-All Socks

Before I could afford cashmere socks, I had these one-size-fits-all socks from Polo Ralph Lauren because I liked their patterns, but they had nylon and polyester and Spandex, and were sometimes quite tight around my calves. So at the end of the day, I would take them off and I would have strong marks on my skin; it sometimes hurt because it just didn’t fit my foot right. I really regret buying them, but without them, I may not have come to appreciate over-the-calf socks as quickly as I did. Perhaps because of this, we only sell over-the-calf socks in our Fort Belvedere shop today.

One size fits it all socks vs OTC socks

8. Steadicam Equipment

When you film outside, for example, it’s very easy to end up with shaky video footage, and no one likes that. So back in the day, you could buy what was called a “Steadicam,” which had weights that helped you balance so you had a smoother picture. It took a bit of practice to use and was quite heavy. I think I bought three different Steadicams, and we used exactly zero of them for any video shoot. So, it was all a complete waste of money! Fortunately, the market advanced, and now you can find gimbals that are three-way or four-way stabilized with engines, and it’s a lot easier to film.

Steadicam

9. Green Duffle Coat

I thought it might be kind of cool to have a different color of duffel coat that was bolder. I didn’t have a duffle coat with a hood, so I thought “Yeah! Why not get one?” But so far, I’ve worn it zero times. Maybe this winter, who knows? Well, I doubt it!

Green Duffle coat

10. My College Education

I went to law school in Germany and the US. Overall, it cost a lot of money, and I never worked in law for a single day in my life–because in my opinion, it sucks and I hate it. That being said, I met my wife during a law school exchange program in 2006, so without having gone to a law school, I would not have met her! So I’m glad I went there but without that, law school was a big fail for me.

Eton College in Windsor, where Beau Brummell first displayed his sartorial innovations.

11. Rimowa Suitcases

Rimowa is a luxury suitcase brand that’s particularly popular in the US and in China. I traveled between Germany and the US quite often between 2006 and 2009, so I thought I’d give the brand a try. Sure enough, after the first trip, the suitcase I bought was broken. It was a polycarbonate suitcase because I wanted it to be lightweight so I could bring a lot back and forth.

Rimowa suitcases gave me two poor experiences

I returned it to Rimowa, who said that they were having some issues in production. They gave me a new case, but the same thing happened again, this time after the second trip. From that point on, I said to myself, “Rimowa no more!” So what did I do? I gave Samsonite a try and sure enough, they’ve been good companions ever since. (This post isn’t sponsored; this was honestly just my experience.)

12. Crew-Neck Sweaters

Especially in high school, crew-neck sweaters were pretty much all I knew in terms of knitwear. The problem with them is that they’re usually so tight that if you wear a shirt or tie under them, it just covers up everything and it’s completely pointless. For that reason, I much prefer v-neck sweaters.

Crewneck sweater

13. Short-Sleeved Dress Shirts

When I was a teenager, I thought it was cool to have dress shirts with short sleeves, but ultimately they’re a bad investment. You can’t wear them with a tie, and they have the more formal button-front placket, so you’ll be better off with a polo shirt or a long-sleeve dress shirt where you can roll up your sleeves in case it gets hot.

Short sleeve dress shirts are a huge fashion faux pas

14. All-Inclusive China Trip

In 2015, my wife, Teresa, joined the Gentleman’s Gazette full time; to celebrate we decided to take a round-the-world trip in 105 days. When we were in Europe, I thought it would be cool to go to China, so we booked a two-week all-inclusive trip. We had two options: one was the regular one, and one was the deluxe one. Of course, the deluxe cost twice as much, so we thought it wasn’t really necessary.

Now, when we took the China trip, it was memorable in many ways–including the fact that a granny tried to climb over me in the airplane. Apart from that, the hotels the travel company chose were really bad; they were outside of the city center, oftentimes, they were ‘No Smoking’ hotels but you could find burn spots all over the place…but hey, they had jeans flavored condoms in their hotel room, isn’t that great? (Not!)

Kempinski, China

During the trip we took an overnight train, and they put us in compartments with a bunch of different people that we didn’t know, which was interesting, but even better were the toilets. Oftentimes in China, they just have a traditional hole in the ground or floor, and so on the train when things move left and right, people’s aim is not the best. So where does it end up? Well, all over the floor–it was just a terrible experience! Looking back, I wish I’d shelled out the money for the deluxe tour. Of course, I don’t know if it would have actually been better, but I’m a firm believer that the grass is always greener on the other side.

15. Bold Accessories

I remember once buying a pocket square with a vivid blue-and-orange hand-rolled edge. At the time I thought it was cool, because I was in New York and I had bought a New York Knicks jacket which was orange and blue. Even so, I ended up never wearing the pocket square again, so it was just a waste of money. Anything that’s really strong and bold is something I just haven’t ended up wearing very much down the line. Why? Well, it’s not really versatile and it just makes you stand out from the crowd in a weird way.

Tartan pocket square – too bold or just right?

16. Online Courses

I once spent money on an online course about Adwords and to this day, neither I nor any of my employees have actually taken it. It was just a complete waste of money. If I talk to other people who either buy online courses or who sell them, they tell me a surprisingly small number of people actually take the course in full–and maybe just even a quarter of the people even start the course.

In my opinion, Online courses are a waste of time

Often, when you buy an online course, you are excited, but then real life kicks in and you just don’t finish. Why is that? I think it has to do with the lack of coaching. No, I’m not going to sell you any coaching here, but if you look at pro athletes, they all have coaches. It’s not because they wouldn’t know what to do themselves, but because everyone benefits from someone who will hold you accountable. I’m in my 30s, and I’m just now realizing the true value of mentorship and coaching.

17. Ill-Fitting Gloves

I remember my very first pair of peccary gloves was from a German brand called Roeckl. The gloves were really soft and nice; I tried them on and thought they were good. The problem was, they were way too wide in my hand and the fingers were way too short. So yes, I had this beautiful leather but ultimately, the gloves didn’t really fit me; they were flopping around my hand and looked really bad.

Roeckl

Fortunately, the leather held up, but the best ingredients are not worth it if the fit isn’t right. From that experience, I created the full range of Fort Belvedere gloves that fit me beautifully and are made of high-quality materials.

18. Room & Board Furniture

Room & Board is a furniture brand that is local to me in Minnesota, and they have an outlet store here that’s rather popular with Millennials. Their style is very mid-century modern, and I remember going there once and seeing a couch. We almost had to battle with other people, but we ended up buying it. Once we brought it home, we sat on it and the cushions always moved to the sides, leaving us to sink in the middle.

Room & Board

So we put it on Craigslist, and luckily we were able to sell it very quickly. Following this, we would still go to the Room & Board outlet and buy a few things, but eventually we’d always sell them. Today, my wife and I always joke when we are in the area, “Hey, let’s go to the Room & Board outlet!” because whatever we’d buy there, we would never keep. We’re not even going anymore, it’s just this running gag between the two of us!

19. Burberry Cashmere Scarf

The winter right after the year when I wore my white suit (Item #5), I wanted a nice scarf. I decided to get a Burberry cashmere scarf, because it had a “nova check” pattern–but after buying it, I realized, “This scarf is actually rather short, and the cashmere wasn’t as soft as I had hoped for.”

Burberry Scarf

It inspired me to develop our own scarves for Fort Belvedere. Without that experience, I probably would never have thought as much about scarves, but this one was a huge waste of money, because I couldn’t really tie it. The only way to wear it was throwing it around my neck, but that wasn’t quite warm, and it blew off when the wind came!

20. Dining at Cosme in New York

A few months ago, Teresa and I went on a trip (just the two of us without our daughter) to New York, because we wanted to enjoy ourselves, go to shows, go to museums, explore the city, and of course, go to nice restaurants. I searched a list of the “50 Best Restaurants in the World,” and at #23 was Cosme in New York. So we went there and had dinner. Now, we had some dishes that were okay, but one dish (listed as a main course) was a mole sauce. I like mole sauce, but this “main course” was a small plate of sauce with some corn tortillas and a few sprouts. I thought, “Are you kidding me? You’re selling me a main course that consists of a bit of sauce?”

Cosme. NY

Overall, we spent several hundred dollars at this dinner, but left the place very disappointed. Now, I’m not a food snob; I like very simple pea soup, or a great deli sandwich. I’ll also spend money on food that is more experimental and creative, but at the same time, I feel like I’m often disappointed when I go into these Michelin-star restaurants. My expectations are so high that they’re just never met. Cosme though, for being rated #23 in the world, was just a huge letdown.

What are the things that you regret buying, and why? Share them in the comments below!

In the world of classic menswear, there are certain time-honored color pairings that are almost guaranteed to succeed. You don’t just have to confine yourself to these staple colors of menswear, however, case in point, the more adventurous pairing we’ll be discussing today: blue and red.

Where Can We See Red & Blue Pairings?

While it’s not an exceptionally popular pairing, it is a favorite among politicians in the United States. A blue suit, white shirt, and red tie have been the go-to uniform for many a politician for much of the latter 20th century. That is, of course, if they’re not wearing a black suit. The intention with this red, white, and blue color pairing among politicians is obviously to echo the colors of the American flag, however, it won’t look like a costume, at least when it’s done correctly. Phrased another way, if this red, white, and blue color pairing weren’t effective, politicians probably wouldn’t wear it. After all, one of their main considerations is making a good first impression.

The Democratic presidential candidates in 1987, mostly wearing red and blue. From left, Senator Al Gore, Representative Richard Gephardt, Gov. Michael Dukakis, Senator Joe Biden, Rev. Jesse Jackson, Gov. Bruce Babbitt, and Senator Paul Simon. [Image: Steve Kagan/The LIFE Images Collection, via Getty Images]

Color Theory

So, the psychological benefits of wearing red are clear. But outside of trying to evoke the American flag, why do we think you should specifically pair it with blue? Simply put, the color wheel holds the answer here. Red is an intense color, and the richer of the two warm primary colors on the color wheel, the other of those being yellow. Thus, because it is often so bold and intense, it works better in smaller doses, when paired and grounded with a complementary cool color. While red’s direct complement on the color wheel is actually green, the color green contains some warmth, given that it’s composed of blue and yellow. Also, the red and green color pairing has a particularly strong association with the Christmas holiday in many parts of the world. As such, at least in the world of menswear, it can often be a smarter choice to pair the intensity of red with the only cool primary color there is, blue. And another plus for using blue in this combination, as we’ve already said: blue is one of the staple colors of classic menswear, so you’ll be able to find it in almost any garment and in almost any shade.

Red pocket square with yellow edges

Pairing Blue & Red: Accessories

With most brighter or more intense colors, the safest bet is to wear them in your accessories. Therefore, you can start by incorporating red into your tie or your pocket square, possibly also with blue. As we’ve said countless times before: when it comes to ties and pocket squares, don’t wear overly shiny satin silks, and don’t match your pocket square and tie together exactly. Both of these choices are just going to come off looking cheap and unstylish. Instead, you could try a tie that has some texture to it, like a grenadine tie or knit tie in red. Another option would be incorporating red into a pattern like a shantung striped tie or a medallion pocket square from Fort Belvedere.

Red Carnation Boutonniere Buttonhole Handmade Silk Fort Belvedere

For a different sort of accessory, you could also wear a red boutonniere, such as a carnation or a rose. Boutonnieres aren’t commonly worn by most men these days, so you’ll definitely stand out a bit if you try one, but if you’ve got one that’s working harmoniously in your outfit’s color palette, it’s going to look smart. You could also wear red cufflinks.

Socks

Now, we, here at the Gentleman’s Gazette, are not big fans of outlandish or crazy socks (as we’ve discussed before) and as we’ve also said, red is an attention-grabbing color, so you have to decide–if you’re going to wear socks with red in them–whether you really want people’s attention directed at your ankles instead of your face. To balance this, you could go with a subtle yet distinctive option like the shadow striped socks featuring midnight blue and burgundy from Fort Belvedere.

Midnight Blue and Burgundy Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Fil d’Ecosse Cotton – Fort Belvedere

You could also go a little bit bolder, such as shadow stripes featuring navy blue and red, or blue socks with red clock patterns. And of course, now would be a good time to note that not every element of your outfit has to feature both colors working together. You could, for example, wear socks that just had shades of blue or red on their own, and you could incorporate other accent colors as well as with any outfit. Just be sure that things are overall working harmoniously together and not fighting for the viewer’s attention.

Shirts

As we just mentioned, not every element of your outfit has to feature both colors working together. If you’ve already got some red in your accessories, tamping things down a bit with a solid blue shirt or a shirt with a pattern (say, blue and white working together) would be a safe bet. A bolder choice, meanwhile, would be a shirt incorporating a red pattern such as stripes or checks. And while pastel blue is a staple of classic menswear, we wouldn’t really recommend solid red shirts, either bright or dark, as they don’t really have much of a place in classic menswear. They’re more at home in contemporary looks and don’t mesh well with the more classic fashions that we’re talking about. A shirt with a red and blue pattern could also be an option. Of course, whatever the color situation, just remember the finer and smaller a pattern, the more formal a shirt is; the larger or bolder a pattern, the less formal the shirt. 

A well put together blue and red outfit

Waistcoats & Sweaters

Staying with the torso for a moment, let’s talk about waistcoats and sweaters. If you want a larger pop of red, especially in the fall or winter seasons, you could try wearing a red-toned waistcoat under a blue jacket. Even classic British style, which is typically more conservative, will often take advantage of slightly more colorful waistcoats or odd vests. This will add some personality to your outfit while still being appropriate for most offices. The key here is just to cover up the bolder red hue with something in a more subdued blue. If you don’t own a red waistcoat, red knitwear could also be an option.

SRS wearing a red-toned waistcoat with his suit, still looking classy

Trousers

Let’s move now to trousers. In warmer weather, chinos in a shade known as Nantucket red are a popular staple of preppy style. Just be aware that this close association with preppy style can make Nantucket reds seem a little bit snobby or pretentious, especially if worn in other areas like the UK. Otherwise, a darker maroon shade could work for almost anything, from corduroys to odd trousers. Of course, your options for blue pants in any shade are almost limitless.

Nantucket Reds from Murrays Toggery Shop

Jackets

Moving on to jackets now (and as was also the case with trousers), blue on its own is a staple of almost any kind of jacket, whether that be a sport coat, blazer, or a jacket for a full suit. The bolder option would be a red sport coat–probably most appropriate for the warmer months of the year. Something like a red linen sport coat would evoke more of an Italian (or specifically, Neapolitan) style and could look smart with a white or off-white dress shirt and some blue pants. Meanwhile, darker maroons or burgundies could, again, be more appropriate for a wintertime blazer or sport coat. You could also seek out jackets incorporating both colors. A blue base with a red pattern over top would probably be slightly more subtle, and the reverse (a red base with a blue pattern) would be bolder. This is true for jackets as well as full suits.

A blue jacket, pale blue shirt, and shantung striped tie in red, blue, and white

Overcoats

Similarly to how a red jacket would be a bold choice, so too would a red overcoat. Essentially, wearing red as any kind of outer layer is going to be more bold, especially in the wintertime. Red outer layers are definitely going to stand out more, so you could consider trying to tamp them down by having a few visible blue accessories like a tie that’s showing, a scarf, or maybe some gloves. The guidelines we just discussed for patterns in jackets would also apply to overcoats, as well.

Casentino overcoat in red — too bold!

Hats

A brief word here about hats: neither red nor blue is an exceptionally common color for classic hats in menswear. However, you will probably find a few more blue felt hats out there than you will red ones. More often, you’re going to see blue and red as colors on hatbands, such as is often the case with straw boaters.

A selection of straw boaters, each with a multicolored, striped band.

Shoes

Finally, let’s cover shoes. Simply put, you’re not going to find too many men’s shoes in classic styles that incorporate both red and blue together. Even something like spectator shoes in dark blue and burgundy leather would be too bold for most men. With that said, each color on its own does have a slightly wider array of options in classic footwear. Neither color is terrifically versatile in shoes, but you can find darker oxblood shades in various styles, as well as blue suede shoes or even some blue leathers, if you’re feeling a bit bolder.

Oxblood Derby shoes with navy pants and Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Navy Blue and Red Fil d’Ecosse Cotton – Fort Belvedere

CONCLUSION

As you can see, there are several ways to pair blue and red together in menswear, ranging from the subtle to the bold. Blue is the classic and versatile menswear staple that will almost always provide a base, and depending on how bold you’d like your outfit to look, you can choose how much red to incorporate. 

How do you like to pair blue and red? Share your ideas with us in the comments!

Button details from Scottish country tailor Campbell’s of Beauly

As we’ve just mentioned, buttons are (often) small objects that make a big difference. The mere presence of buttons on the collar of a button-down shirt, for example, make said shirt stand out from other styles. With that said, let’s jump into the various ways that buttons can impact a garment–beginning with quantity.

The Number of Buttons

The first way that buttons affect the appearance of clothes is by their sheer number. As mentioned above, their presence on a button-down collar has an immediate impact, making the shirt less formal while also placing your outfit in the realm of American Ivy style. Similarly, a single-button tailored jacket looks different than a two-button, three-button, or three-roll-two style of jacket, as the location of the buttoning point affects the length of the lapels and how long an open “V” you’ll have at the front. The change in appearance related to the number of buttons is perhaps even more obvious with double-breasted jackets and overcoats, which come in permutations of six buttons with two functional (6×2), four buttons with two functional (4×2), 6×3, 4×1, and various other configurations. 

Various double-breasted jackets: a classic 6×2, a 4×1 and what looks like an 8×2.

A less obvious place where the number of buttons comes into play is on dress trousers, which usually have many buttons to close the waistband and/or the fly (or to affix suspenders/braces). Buttons on the back pockets are also mostly an ornamental detail to decorate your rear end and don’t have much of a functional purpose (other than perhaps giving the slightest bit more protection to a wallet). 

Multiple button closures on a pair of custom Luxire trousers

Aside from shirts, jackets, and trousers, buttons can appear on other garments, as well. Waistcoats have their own distinct buttoning rules, overcoats feature much the same button styling as jackets, and buttons can even be seen on such garments as gloves and traditional button boots (the latter now confined mostly to formal daywear).

An array of button boots from JFitzpatrick

Buttons Open or Closed?

Unbuttoning always impacts your style by being more casual and, sometimes, showing a dash of that casual nonchalance called sprezzatura. Buttoning, on the other hand, always equals greater formality–when you wear a suit and are standing up, you’re supposed to close some of the button(s) on the jacket. Not doing so flaunts the rules and shows a more relaxed attitude. The same applies if you have working buttons on the sleeves of a sport coat or suit jacket, also known as surgeon’s cuffs. Leaving one unbuttoned presents a rakish attitude. Ditto if you open the second button on your shirt collar or leave the buttons on a button-down shirt collar unfastened. We don’t recommend leaving a button fly on your pants open, of course!

Surgeon Cuffs with handmade buttonholes

Contrasting Buttons

When you buy a dress shirt, most of the time the buttons will be an innocuous and unnoticeable off-white. On dark shirts, you’ll often see dark buttons for the same reason. However, buttons can strongly impact the style if you get them in a contrasting color and make them stand out. On a shirt, this means something like white buttons on a navy shirt or black ones on a white shirt. Be aware that as soon as you have contrasting buttons on a shirt, it immediately becomes informal, and therefore more appropriate for drinks after work than the workplace itself. 

A casual Eton dress shirt with contrasting blue buttons

The same effect can be had with sport coats as well, with the contrast most suitable for fun summer jackets in fabrics such as wool hopsacks or linens, since they evoke a Neapolitan vibe more suited for hot sunny weather. However, contrasting buttons are most commonly seen on formal navy blazers, which generally have wider three-season use. In fact, contrasting buttons in either mother of pearl or embossed metal (brass, silver, or pewter) are actually one of the technical features that define what a blazer is. The term “blazer” is meant to capture the assertive boldness of the garment, and such buttons, which can also be embossed with anchors or other emblems, are a key part of that.

Off-white mother-of-pearl buttons on a light blue summer jacket

Most of the time, with suit jackets or sport coats, your buttons will not be the same color as the cloth, but neither will they be strongly contrasting. For example, you might have black buttons on a grey suit, or brown buttons on a navy one. Both colors are dark and subdued. In these cases, first of all, you have the ability to coordinate your outfit using the button colors.  For instance, by wearing pants or a tie in the same color family as those brown buttons on your navy jacket, you can tie together the various parts of your ensemble. So, don’t overlook the possibilities for coordination that buttons provide.

Brown buttons on a sport coat matching brown corduroys

Button Materials

If you call attention to your buttons as a style feature, the quality of their make matters. Cheap buttons made in plastic come with cheaply tailored shirts and should be avoided as a general rule. The low quality will either be noticeable or, at the very least, will not enhance your style. Indeed, one of the big (and fun) decisions of getting bespoke items made is choosing the button material. Quality clothing comes with quality buttons made in natural materials. The added labor and cost involved make them more desirable, but the natural appearance is the true selling point.

Shells and MOP Buttons at the National Pearl Button Museum in Muscatine, Iowa

Brass Buttons (& Other Metals)

A common feature of many blazers is their use of metallic buttons; most traditionally brass, but sometimes in other metals. This is largely to do with the blazer’s history being influenced by military attire. For more information on these types of buttons, visit our comprehensive Blazer Guide.

Blazer buttons in gold, silver, gilt or enamel with crests, anchor & heraldry

Mother-of-Pearl and Trochus Buttons

We’ve already mentioned mother-of-pearl buttons (also known as nacre), which are punched from the inside lining of shells. Originally, they were produced on a grand scale in Iowa using freshwater mollusks from the Mississippi River, though today most of the global production comes from farms in Asia. You can tell true MOP by placing a button to your lips or cheek–if it’s authentic MOP, the button will feel cooler. You can also tap the button against your front teeth; plastic produces a duller and lower-pitched sound than does shell. Mother-of-pearl is usually used for shirts because of its white color, which complements all but the darkest shirts. One thing you may notice when buying dress shirts with MOP buttons is that their thickness can vary more than that of a cheaper plastic button. 

Italian shirtmakers tend toward thick MOP buttons that can be difficult to fasten

Southern Italian shirtmakers prefer to use thick buttons, probably because they think they’re more impressive; however, I personally prefer thinner ones because they’re easier to fasten and unfasten. Thick ones are more annoying to fit through shirt buttonholes. Some shirt buttons are made with trochus shells instead of MOP. These are sea snails rather than freshwater creatures, and the resulting buttons are more yellow and less iridescent, which some say brings them closer to looking like plastic. They’re also less strong than MOP, and for these reasons, less desirable (though certainly better than plastic).

Trochus shell button blanks

Horn Buttons

Another common button material is horn, which is used mainly for buttons on jackets and trousers. These buttons are made primarily from the horns and hooves of cows or water buffalo and are predominantly brown; however, their selling point is the variety of tones they can contain, including swirls and mottling in different colors ranging from nearly black to reddish-brown to beige. These neutrals pair well with a lot of other menswear colors, and their individual uniqueness adds to their appeal.

A sample of the color variety possible with horn buttons

Corozo (Ivory Palm) Buttons

A lesser-known choice in the button world is corozo, made from the tagua nut (in turn, from the tree known commonly as the ivory palm) native to South America’s tropical rainforests. The nuts were originally used as disposable ballast in the holds of ships during transatlantic journeys from South America to Europe during the 19th century–until their ivory-like appearance was noticed, and they became desirable for carving and, eventually, for making into buttons. The interior of the tagua nut naturally has a white color–hence its moniker “vegetable ivory,” but corozo may be dyed to make a full range of colors.  

An example of tagua nut (corozo) buttons on tailoring

Button Stitching

If buttons hardly get any consideration from the average man, the ways in which buttons are stitched receive even less attention, except from true aficionados of menswear. The standard stitch for holding on a button is an X across the four holes; however, different stitches can add character.

The most famous of these alternate stitch styles is the zampa di gallina, or chicken’s foot stitch, supposedly created by the grandmother of Neapolitan shirtmaker Luigi Borelli as a method of avoiding sewing errors when she started losing her eyesight. Whether the legend is true or not, like the Milanese buttonhole, the zampa di gallina stitch has become a hallmark of quality craftsmanship, as buttons sewn on with this technique must be hand-stitched. Perhaps its slant presents an appeal similar to the asymmetrical nature of a four-in-hand tie knot, or maybe it lends a kind of energetic movement to the buttons.

Conclusion

Although they are common and primarily known as a functional part of clothes, buttons have an underappreciated impact on the overall appearance and style of an outfit. The simple features of buttons, like their color, number, material and stitching can add up to create the effect you want.

In menswear, one of the most consistently confusing topics is the correct sleeve length of shirts, jackets and suits. How long should each be, and how do you effectively combine them?

Having the correct sleeve length of your shirts and jackets is a subtle hallmark of a menswear expert; it reflects attention to detail and a dedication to getting the look just right. It’s also not an area that you can get away with NOT paying attention to; sloppy sleeve length can make you look like a boy who outgrew or borrowed his clothes.

Unfortunately, sleeve length seems to be a gray area in which anyone can claim to be an expert, no matter how much or how little they know about dressing well. Often, rules are cited and absolute measurements are provided, though most forget that the look of the sleeve-cuff conjunction is not only about the length. It is also about the right fit and the harmony of the interaction between the two garments.

To make sure your sleeves are all the right length for you, we’ll start by taking a deep dive into the length of shirt sleeves, which starts with evaluating the features of the shirt to find the right ones before you buy. Then, we will move on to jackets and how to best pair them with shirt sleeves for the best possible combination.

What is the Correct Shirt Sleeve Length?

The answer is that your shirt cuff should fall to the base of the thumb, but that requires many considerations to get it right. Basically every feature of a dress shirt – the cut, the armhole size, the cuff button placement, the width of the cuff – will affect the length of the shirt sleeve. Let’s review how each element affects the sleeve length of a dress shirt.

Sleeve Length for French Cuff Shirts

Ideally, a French cuff shirt should reach to the root of the thumb at all times, even when you move. If your cuff moves when you lift your arms, you have a problem with the armhole or the shirt length. Your shirt armholes could be too big, or they could be bigger than your sleeve, thus pulling the shirt sleeve up when you move. To avoid that, opt for a shirt armhole that is big enough to make you comfortable but small enough to keep the shirt cuff at the right length.

Here are the considerations to make regarding french cuff or double cuff shirts with regards to achieving proper sleeve length.

French Cuff Shirts Should Have a Horseshoe Shape Cuff

A French cuff or double cuff shirt cuffs should neither fit too tightly nor too loose. It should sit snugly so that the cuff forms a horseshoe shape around the wrist, without straining or sliding down over your thumb. This way, the cuff will not move up or down, even if you have a bit of an extra length in your sleeves.

The French Cuff Buttonhole Should Be Positioned Closely to the Edge of the Cuff

The buttonhole should be located in the middle of the cuff and positioned rather closely to the edge because otherwise it is too tight and the excess folded fabric creates an odd “wing” on your cuff. In Britain, sometimes the buttonhole is located at the front of the cuff to display more of your cufflinks. In continental Europe, and especially in Germany, this feature was usually only seen on evening shirts or morning dress rather than on general day shirts. What you prefer is simply a matter of taste.

Of course, if you are a watch wearer, make sure to leave enough space beneath your cuff for the biggest wrist watch you would wear with that particular shirt. Sizing one cuff slightly larger is a feature that can only be accomplished with custom shirts. Even then, there are sometimes huge differences in the size of watches, which means that some watches can only be paired with some of your shirts.

Shirt Cuff Must Not Be Too Wide Otherwise It Slides Down

If your shirt cuff is so wide that you can slide your hand through with the cufflinks in it, your cuffs will slide down on to your hand. Not only does that look like you got a shirt from your older brother, but it also results in unsightly wrinkles.

French Cuffs Should Not Be too Narrow Otherwise it Throws Off the Proportions

If your shirt cuff is too tight and narrow, it may throw off the proportion to the shirt sleeve by making your jacket sleeve appear to be oversized (even if it isn’t).

Sleeve Length for Button or Barrel Cuff Shirts

Button cuffs are narrower than French cuffs because the fabric wraps around the wrist, overlapping the buttoning point. No jewelry is required to close the cuffs, which are already outfitted with buttons. Ideally, a barrel cuff should fit closely to your wrist; most men underestimate what “closely” means and overly wide barrel cuffs abound. If your barrel cuff is properly fitted, there should only be room for 1-2 fingers between your skin and the cuff. This close fit helps hold them in place, while maintaining the trimmer profile that is important for a barrel cuff.

Overly wide shirt cuffs will not hug your wrist, and they will slide up and down your arm, causing them to hang to far over your hand or get bunched up under your jacket sleeve.

If you wear a wristwatch, you need a little bit of extra space, but the fit should still be trim. In fact, if you order custom, MTM or bespoke dress shirts, they should be able to widen the watch wearing cuff slightly while keeping the non-watch wearing side snug.

The Proper Jacket and Suit Sleeve Length

Once you’ve purchased barrel and french cuffshirts that have the proper fit, you can move on to combining them with jackets, where once again balancing the proportions is key to achieving a good look. Because the balance of both the shirt and jacket sleeve can only be perfect if they work together, you have to pay attention to both when you buy a garment. For the best results, we suggest to get the fit of the shirt cuff right first, and then select or tailor the jacket sleeve width accordingly.

Jacket Sleeve Width

Jacket sleeve width varies from jacket to jacket, so you’ll need to choose the cuff that harmonizes with each jacket. Consequently, the ideal jacket sleeve width alters with the chosen cuff! Traditionally, button cuffs became the standard for sportscoats and casual garments, and French cuffs were worn with more formal suits.

Today, men can wear anything they want and consequently, those rules are optional to you. However, to get the right look, narrower jacket sleeves should be paired with a barrel cuff while wider jacket sleeves should be paired with a french cuff. Older jackets sometimes have a very wide sleeve hem that even shows the sleeve lining. That is simply too big and it makes your hands appear small and disproportional. If there is too much or too little space between the cuff and the sleeve, you’ve likely made the wrong choice.

To Show Cuff or Not to Show Cuff?

Many menswear guides claim that the proper amount of cuff to show falls between between 1/2″ (1.25 cm) to 1″ (2.5cm). Most guides, us included, agree that anything more than 1.25″ (4cm) is too much cuff to show; it makes the junction of your two sleeves look like you haven’t considered how they will go together. Here is a sampling of how much cuff menswear experts suggest you show under your jacket sleeve:

• Alan Flusser – 1 cm (2/5″)
• Bernhard Roetzel – at least 1 cm (2/5″) of the cuff should visible but more can be ok as well
• Bert Bacharach claimed it should be just 1/4″ (0.64cm) in 1953
• Baron von Eelking suggests to show 2cm (4/5″) of cuff if they are soft, and 1cm (2/5″) for stiff cuffs you’d wear with white tie or black tie
• Sydney Barney explains in Clothes and The Man that sleeve length is a matter of taste and that you and your tailor should follow the current trend
• Nicholas Storey notes in the History of Men’s Fashion that some British bespoke tailors often prefer not to show any shirt cuff at all
• C. Northcote Parkinson wrote in the publication Parkinson’s Law that Americans show cuff and the British do not

In fact, many photographs and fashion illustrations from the US and continental Europe display men showing some cuff but it varies from picture to picture. As you can see, throughout menswear history, many men wore their coat sleeves short enough to show some cuff, but there were also other dapper gentlemen who chose to do the opposite.

As such, any “rule” about the matter should not be regarded as an absolute, but much rather as a helpful guideline for men as they decide what to wear.

Matching the Amount of Cuff to the Shirt Collar

At the Gentleman’s Gazette, we prefer to show about 0.5″ & 1.25cm (or a hint more) because we believe it looks best when the amount of shirt cuff visible matches the amount of shirt collar that is visible in the back of the neck. Again it is all about proportions and creating harmony in an outfit. Please watch the video for more details.

What Sleeve Length is Right For You?

As you can see, there is more to a sleeve than just the proper length. At the end of the day, a lot boils down to taste. If you focus on proportion and harmony, you will always be well dressed. If you show cuff, make sure that it is not too short and focus on the fit as outlined above.

If you enjoyed this guide, you might also like our guide 30 Style Mistakes & How To Avoid Them, our ebook Gentlemen of The Golden Age and 25 Tips to Dress More Elegantly.

Have you ever passed someone on the street, or maybe had a friend or co-worker, who liked to “mix it up” stylistically by wearing any sport coat they might have in their closet, pairing it with jeans or chinos, and just calling it a day? This is not an uncommon option for many men–but there are actually multiple ways for you to add a unique spin to your outfits to make them more stylish and more functional.

Mixing Casual & Professional Attire In Stylish Outfits

1. Pay Attention To Fit

I remember a few years ago I was preparing for a trip to New York City. I spent what felt like hours scouring my closet, trying to find things to put in my suitcase that would give me the best versatility. I soon realized that I had selected some items that looked preppy and others that were quite professional–but that these two types didn’t quite mesh well together (especially in terms of fit).

Kyle’s casual & professional outfit

To fix this problem, I had to get out of my head, stop envisioning myself as some sort of “menswear cover model,” and think realistically. I took a moment to figure out what would make the most sense, so I’d look stylish, be prepared for all of my meetings, and still have the flexibility to be able to explore the great city of New York without having to continue to run back to my hotel for an outfit change. Having the correct proportions in terms of fit will help show you in your best light.

2. Always Choose Quality Garments

It’s also important to make sure you’re choosing the best quality garments as much as possible, but what do we mean by quality? Quality isn’t always defined by what the price tag says, it’s also about the durability and longevity of the garment. Quality pieces are often significant investments, but their longevity will be such that the overall cost-per-wear of the garment over its lifetime will be low.

A description of fine worsted wools from Vitale Barberis Canonico

3. Look for Seasonless Pieces

I always like to look for seasonless pieces. These are versatile options that work well into your capsule wardrobe–meaning that, speaking generally, they can be worn at any time of year, and also that almost any piece in said wardrobe will pair reasonably well with any other when assembling an outfit.

A “capsule wardrobe” made up of maximally versatile pieces makes assembling outfits much easier

4. Know Which Items Are Key

It’s always helpful to know which items are key in your wardrobe for maximum versatility. Examples of “staple” pieces would include medium- or dark-wash denim, cotton chino pants in neutral colors, solid or gently patterned suits in navy or dark gray, a year-round navy blazer in wool, leather dress shoes in black or dark brown, and accessories like a watch, a ring, sunglasses, or even a pocket square.

A colorful selection of Fort Belvedere accessories

5. Pay Attention to The Season

It’s important to pay attention to the season in which you’re preparing your outfit, as this will help you determine which colors and materials you should be utilizing. Now, using the list of key garments mentioned above, and also the color and pattern suggestions that are going to follow, you’ll be able to add more uniqueness and pizzazz to your outfits going forward.

When it comes to the season of spring, you want to look for colors that are light and have a pastel tone. In summer, try something brighter and much more vibrant. In autumn, earth tones always look fantastic, and in the winter season, think of something dark and more subdued.

A white and lavender puppytooth dress shirt worn under a cardigan would be perfectly appropriate for fall.

Other than seasonality, consider that some colors are more advantageous for certain men than others, depending on skin tone, hair color, eye color, and so on. Popular pattern options would include stripes, windowpane, buffalo check, paisley, and Glen plaid. Keep in mind, there are also numerous other patterns to consider, but patterns also have a different effect on different people depending on their build.

6. Matching Seasonality and Formality

A correct example would be wearing a year-round blazer, a sweater, some dark wash jeans, and perhaps a pair of boots. Here we see the formality and seasonality of everything harmonizing together wonderfully. It shows somebody who is aware of the season in which they are dressing.

A general scale of formality for colors in menswear

They’re keeping the majority of their outfit fairly neutral–perhaps it has one to two pops of color–and the best part is that it’s versatile. Remember, sticking with neutral tones for a majority of your outfit, and then having one to two accent colors, will help you to look distinguished and cohesive.

7. Pattern Matching

As we said previously, there are a great many patterns out there; stripes, dots, paisley–what do we do? Perhaps you’ve heard to never mix certain patterns together, but now that you better understand color, let’s go over some ways on how you can leave this simplistic advice behind. When there are too many things going on with your outfit, it will be visually confusing to your viewer. A safe example would be wearing a solid tie with a pinstriped shirt. Introducing a pattern to the tie as well as the shirt will make things more complex.

Striped green and white dress shirt with micropattern tie from Fort Belvedere; multiple patterns of different scales will work well together

On the conservative side, it’s always best to keep it simple and opt for maybe one to two patterns in an outfit. You can always wear multiple patterns, but the important thing is to make sure that the scale is different from pattern to pattern, so that they are not fighting for attention. It’s great to see confidence in an outfit by not being afraid to try a paisley tie with a checked shirt, or pairing your wingtip shoes with your dark-wash denim, or perhaps a casual button-down shirt with a unique pattern under a suit jacket.

How Should You Personalize Your Outfits?

Although it’s good to know what rules to adhere to when creating your new professional and casual outfit, we want to make sure that you don’t feel like it’s a uniform. Clothing is a form of expression, and it’s important to know when and where it’s appropriate to be expressive. For example, you wouldn’t want to show up to a dinner date wearing a t-shirt and long tube socks; not only is it a decidedly unstylish look, but at this dinner date, it wouldn’t be the best time to express yourself in that way. Save these bolder items for a different time.

Business Casual Outfit by the Hogtown Rake – Single Breasted Blazer with popover shirt, cotton pocket square, khakis and brown tassel loafers

One thing I’ve never tired of in all the years I’ve worked in retail is being able to meet all these wonderful people from all over the world. I remember seeing many different kinds of people who had frequented my place of work who really enjoyed pushing the boundaries of fashion–whether through hair color, the amount of fragrance they wore, or their overall outfit choices. One person would always arrive at the store in a cloud of fragrance, and another would only allow themselves to wear one single color, literally from head to toe.

Conclusion

It’s important to be prepared for anything when you step outside in your outfit, which means that versatility is a primary concern. However, it’s also great to see an outfit embellished with a unique ring, your favorite leather-strapped watch, or a great Fort Belvedere pocket square to add some personality. The goal here is to add a few key pieces to help show “you” in your outfit without going overboard. Dressing for multiple occasions is something that initially might require a bit more planning, but once you’ve found a rhythm in your wardrobe, it’ll feel like second nature.

How do you assemble an outfit that’s both casual and professional? Share with us in the comments!

In today’s installment of our Gentlemen of Style series, we bring you the Hollywood fashion icon, Fred Astaire–who, by many measures, was an unlikely recipient of fame.

Perhaps no other figure in the history of American cinema did as much to define the spirit of the musical as did Fred Astaire. He is remembered primarily as a dancer–and rightly so, as his supremely tasteful blend of tap and ballroom styles, with a dash of ballet, meant that he is often seen as America’s most consummate film dancer. His only real rival for that title is a contemporary of his, Gene Kelly. He was also a distinctive singer, and he introduced many of the songs now part of the pantheon known collectively as The Great American Songbook. His acting style showcased a blend of optimistic insouciance that was the ideal of American cinema at the time. But in addition to all this (and our primary focus here): his impeccable style.

Fred Astaire’s Early Years

He was born Frederick Emanuel Austerlitz on May 10th, 1899 in Omaha, Nebraska. When Fred’s older sister, Adele, began to show a natural talent for dancing, both of the children began pursuing the art. Although Fred refused to take dance lessons at first, he was easily able to mimic his sister’s movements, showing his natural talent. Also, he took up piano, accordion, and clarinet, showing that he was equally adept as a musician.

Fred Astaire Dancing in a morning dress ensemble (from Blue Skies)

The family moved to New York in 1905, and both of the children would start receiving formal training at this point. Also around this time, the family name was changed from Austerlitz to the more elegant Astaire. By the age of 14, Fred had taken on the musical responsibilities for his and Adele’s act, and at the age of 16 he first met composer, George Gershwin, launching a friendship and collaboration that would profoundly impact American popular culture. The Astaires first hit Broadway in 1917, and they would continue to perform on Broadway and London stages throughout the 1920s. Even at this point, Fred’s tap dancing was recognized as being among the best.

In 1930, Robert Benchley wrote, “I don’t think that I will plunge the nation into war by stating that Fred is the greatest tap dancer in the world.” When his sister Adele married Lord Charles Cavendish in 1932, Fred continued on the stage as a solo act, and then hit Hollywood in 1933. Despite a poor screen test at RKO Radio Pictures, which (according to Fred) read, “can’t act, slightly bald, also dances,” producer David O. Selznick took a chance on him, saying, “I am uncertain about the man, but I feel, in spite of his enormous ears and bad chin line, that his charm is so tremendous that it comes through even in this wretched test.”

Fred Astaire

Fred Astaire’s Movies

Fred made his film debut in the musical Dancing Lady, playing opposite Joan Crawford, and was then paired with Ginger Rogers for a sequence in the film Flying Down to Rio. Astaire and Rogers would make nine films together at RKO, including Top Hat, Follow the Fleet, Swing Time, and Shall We Dance. Six out of these nine RKO musicals became the biggest money-makers for the studio, and they propelled Fred and Ginger to superstardom. Leaving RKO in 1939 to freelance in film (which was relatively rare at the time), Astaire would go on to partner with other dancers such as Eleanor Powell and Rita Hayworth, and he also made two memorable films with Bing Crosby.

Throughout the 1950s and ’60s, Astaire would go on to headline a few other musical films, as well as produce a number of television specials. His final musical film was 1968’s Finian’s Rainbow, and he had a few more dramatic roles in the 1970s. 1981’s Ghost Story was Astaire’s final film. He died of pneumonia on June 22, 1987, at the age of 88. Even after his death, his legacy as a singer and a dancer lives on.

Astaire is credited with two innovations in the history of early film musicals: the first was leaving the camera largely stationary in long, unbroken shots, to show the full scope of a dance routine. The second was harnessing a film’s musical numbers to actually serve the plot, rather than just being diversions. And although he possessed a somewhat light voice, Astaire was admired as a singer by such great American composers as Irving Berlin, George Gershwin, and Cole Porter. More popular songs in the so-called Great American Songbook were introduced on film by Astaire than any other popular singer at the time, including Bing Crosby or Frank Sinatra.

Fred Astaire in White Tie (from Top Hat)

Astaire’s Clothing & Style

One need look no further than the various characters Astaire played on film at the time to get an overall sense of his style. These characters notably broke with the standards of the time for what an ideal male leading character was to be. Rather than being wealthy, titled, or overly formal, Astaire’s characters (and indeed he himself) embodied a more modern American male ideal: self-made, ambitious, self-taught, and tenacious.

As menswear historian G. Bruce Boyer writes in his book, Fred Astaire Style,

Astaire mixed his dance styles the way he mixed his dress styles: with a spontaneous exuberance in which the hard work was well hidden within the detail and subtlety. His blend of urban English shape with casual American style typifies American dress to this day. His characters showed a fresh approach to the romantic hero: vitality, urbanity, charm, and natural talent, all carried off in an effortless manner. Astaire was the democratic ideal: A classless aristocrat.

Essentially, Astaire’s sartorial genius came from his ability to look simultaneously formal and casual, neat and yet pleasingly rumpled. He was intimately well-acquainted with the traditional rules of menswear, so he knew how to bend or break them in order to fit his own taste. He could wear suits in conservative shades without looking drab, more colorful combinations without looking gaudy, and of course, a tuxedo or a full-dress ensemble without looking the least bit uncomfortable. So how, then, did he accomplish this? In order to answer that question, here’s a more complete breakdown of Astaire’s particular style choices.

Fred Astaire Style by G. Bruce Boyer

A Focus on Softness and Comfort

Jackets had to be roomy enough not to be constricting but to still hold their shape. Trousers had to be cut on the full side, but not sloppy or billowy. From Astaire, “A new aesthetic evolved, and so did the relationship between clothes and attitude, style and demeanor. During the Depression, this aesthetic became the mid-Atlantic model: a blend of Savile Row with Princeton.” In other words, Astaire was able to seamlessly combine the hallmarks of traditional English tailoring with a more contemporary American prep style. Astaire had ample exposure to both of these traditions, as he had been a Brooks Brothers customer since his teens, and his travels while on stage in London had introduced him to Savile Row.

To follow this dual emphasis on form and function, Astaire chose supple weights of fabric to enhance the drape of his suits and in particular, he always made sure that his armholes were cut particularly high to maximize his movement, especially when dancing. This was particularly true of his full-dress ensembles, which were often made by Anderson & Sheppard. While many men assume that white tie must be inherently uncomfortable to wear, with its high starched collar and exacting cuts, Astaire definitely proved this assumption to be false.

Fred Astaire with collar pin (but no tie bar) while wearing a three-piece suit

Suits

Fortunately, we do not need to speculate on Astaire’s opinions about specific different kinds of garments, because he gave these opinions to interviewer Richard Hubler in a 1957 piece for Gentleman’s Quarterly. In terms of suits, he typically preferred traditional, staple hues, like navy blue and charcoal grays and browns. “The only light color I like is light gray,” he said. Meanwhile, his choices for combinations of a blazer or sport coat with odd trousers could often be a bit more bold, and incorporate patterns. In either case, he did prefer that his jackets usually have deep side vents, often up to seven inches or so, in accordance with traditional British styling.

Fred Astaire and Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face

Trousers

His trousers were usually both pleated and cuffed, although he did wear them shorter than many men of the time, with little or no break. He said, “I do not want them slopping over onto my shoes.” Another reason for a shorter trouser break was to draw more attention to his feet while dancing in films. He also accomplished this by wearing socks (and sometimes shoes) in contrasting colors to the trousers. While he did prefer a shorter hem, Astaire also preferred for his trousers to have a higher waistline. This made his legs look longer and more athletic, and made him appear taller overall, even though he was only about 5’9”.

Shoes

Of course, shoes were the workhorses of Astaire’s wardrobe. He was often said to go through dozens of pairs while rehearsing for a show or a film, and in terms of his own private collection, he often preferred two-tone spectator shoes, or oxfords in either white buckskin or brown suede.

Fred Astaire with a tie belt and a slim cut dress shirt

Shirts

Astaire purchased just as many off-the-rack shirts as he had custom made. In his time, the style was for shirts to fit more generously in the chest and sleeves than they do today, so a slightly looser fit that one would typically get off-the-rack would not be seen as sloppy. Still, his shirts did fit him well for his size. He would occasionally wear patterned shirts, in something like stripes, but he was most partial to solids in pastel colors like blue, yellow, and a personal favorite of his, pink. Solid pastel shirts, by the way, are a maximally versatile option for pairing with all different manners of ties and jackets, as well as accessories.

Overall, he preferred button-cuff shirts to ones with French cuffs, and would typically wear cufflinks only with formal dress–wherein they, as well as the shirt studs, would often contain precious gems. He disliked tab collars, often preferring button-down collars or spread collars strengthened with collar stays. When he did choose to wear a traditional point collar, he would often accentuate it by wearing a collar pin, clip, or bar.

Fred Astaire wearing a straw boater and tie bar

Ties & Bow Ties

In terms of ties, he preferred tying a Windsor knot, and often opted for fuller, wider ties. He explained in that 1957 interview that he avoided narrower ties because, “I am narrow enough myself, too narrow.” While he was a bow tie wearer in his younger years, Astaire later settled into wearing primarily long neckties, and then in his later years, wearing neckerchiefs and ascots. Another use of neckwear for Astaire was one that would become a personal hallmark for him: using old ties or handkerchiefs as belts. This came from his dancing days, when his weight would fluctuate so rapidly that belts would be impractical at keeping up his trousers.

Other Accessories

Also a fan of colorful pocket squares, Astaire would usually wear them in more casual folds, rather than something highly structured. Other than collar pins, tie bars, and occasionally a ring, Astaire did also like to accessorize with boutonnieres, particularly carnations. In hats, he liked models with low crowns and fairly narrow brims, usually of about 2 1/8 inches. According to him, “an eighth of an inch can make a lot of difference in a brim.” And while he obviously wore top hats with his full-dress and morning-dress ensembles, his everyday choices were felt fedoras and straw boaters, often accented with colorful grosgrain hatbands.

Fred Astaire circa 1936 wearing the popular white pearl shirt stud and the periods novel black waistcoat studs.

The Fred Astaire Attitude

With all of this said, how can one effectively emulate Fred Astaire’s style? The easiest way to do it, of course, would be to just directly follow all of the points we’ve laid out here. Equally important to the garments themselves, however, is the attitude with which they are worn. As we’ve already said, while Astaire did not shy away from incorporating patterns into his shirts or accessories, he was able to assemble outfits with what can honestly be called an artist’s eye. His combinations were always harmonious, and while they could be playful or even bright, they were never ostentatious or over-the-top.

While he was always smartly attired, Astaire took pleasure in his wardrobe and fundamentally dressed for himself. As he was quoted in the aforementioned 1957 interview:

I know that once in a while I have been on lists of best-dressed men, but it always comes as a surprise to me. I never think of myself as spic-and-span or all duded out, just as someone who wants to be comfortable and satisfy his own taste.

As for wearing white tie like Astaire, remember that the fit must be immaculate, ensuring ease of movement. Even so, as he admitted in his autobiography, Steps in Time, “At the risk of disillusionment, I must admit that I do not like top hats, white ties, and tails.” If you are looking for print resources to study up on Fred Astaire’s style, we would again recommend G. Bruce Boyer’s book, Fred Astaire Style, as well as Astaire’s own autobiography.

Conclusion

Fred Astaire created a unique blend of functionality and flair. Due to his classic-first-quirky-second leaning, his style has truly stood the test of time. Again quoting from Boyer:

He could wear the uniform of the upper class when the need called for it, but it’s ironic that the man some associated with the top hat and tails is really the one who popularized the sports jacket and soft lounge suit. Astaire wore white ties and tails as though they were pajamas, and a tuxedo as though it were a part of his everyday routine..It was not supposed to look perfect, it was supposed to look natural. It worked then, and it works now. It’s what genius and style are all about. 

What style lessons from Fred Astaire are you most likely to adopt in your own wardrobe? Let us know in the comments!

When it gets really cold outside in Minneapolis, Minnesota (where I live), people start complaining–but for me, it is the other way around. I love wearing overcoats, because it allows me to add an additional layer to my cold weather outfits. Today’s article is a tour of my collection!

Why Buy Vintage Overcoats?

My collection was built up over the years, primarily because I bought vintage. I really like vintage overcoats for 4 reasons.

1. Most of the overcoats you can buy these days look boring. Usually, they come in plain black, charcoal, and navy. Sometimes, they have zippers and weird details, and I just do not like the look of them. That being said, black is one of the most overrated colors, and if you want to know why, check out this video.
2. The weight of the fabric in modern overcoats doesn’t suit me. In my opinion, they are way too light and while that is a popular trend among suits, for an overcoat, you want the fabric to be as heavy as possible so it keeps you warm. Overcoats made 50 or 60 years ago were a lot heavier and sometimes, they weigh up to 10 pounds or 5 kilograms or more. Honestly, these heavy overcoats keep you warmer than any Moncler jacket or Canada Goose jacket. I mean, if I were able to find modern heavyweight overcoats, I probably would buy them–but maybe that is something we can make for Fort Belvedere, so stay tuned!
3. Vintage overcoats cost less. Not a lot of people wear them anymore, but they used to back in the day, so the supply and demand work in your favor. Oftentimes, you can find fantastic overcoats priced between $5 and $200, versus a new coat from Brooks Brothers. For example, one of their Polo coats will set you back $1700. I am sure it is a great coat if you wear it a lot; the cost per wear is good, but you can find something comparable for 5, 10, or 50 bucks, why not take that?
4. Lastly, I prefer the variety of patterns, textures, and details of vintage overcoats. You just find classic paletots, half belts, full belts, and more. You can find raglan sleeves or regular sleeves, and also colors and details that you just do not find in most modern overcoats these days.

My Overcoat Collection

Trench Coats

We’ll start today’s tour with topcoats, specifically, my trench coats. Although they are not overcoats, I included them here, because in warmer areas of the world, you can wear trench coats during the winter. I have four trench coats, but I only wear three regularly, and these are the double-breasted ones. Why? I like the look of them and that is also the classic style.

Sand colored trench coat from Jupiter

Khaki Trench Coat

The first trench coat I bought had this typical khaki or sand color, it was from Jupiter Paris, it was made in Korea with a composition of 65% polyester and 35% cotton for the shell, as well as the lining. Overall, I think it was a good entry-level coat. It was not too long, and while it had some details, it definitely had fewer than other coats (such as the D-rings of the Burberry trench coat). The Jupiter Paris one cost me $25 and I bought it on eBay.

Black Burberry Trench Coat

Black Burberry Trench Coat

The second trench coat I got was from Burberry. It is a black one and I bought it in 2007 from a store called Rudolf Beaufays in Hamburg which specializes in vintage British goods. I think, at the time, it cost about €200 and I bought it from the proceeds of the sale of a Goyard suitcase. The shell is made of 67% polyester and 33% cotton while the lining is 50% poly and 50% cotton.

It’s made in England, it has the old label and it has regular sleeves, not raglan sleeves. That is not typical for a trench coat but I really like the look of it. Also, the buttons get slightly narrower to the bottom and it’s just very elegant, in my opinion. It also has a very slim cut, which is unlike most traditional trench coats which are cut a little more roomy. I like this trench coat for travel because it’s dark and it does not pick up dirt very quickly. That being said, if I could buy it all over again, I’d probably get a charcoal color or maybe a dark navy, because it is more versatile than black.

Khaki Burberry Trench Coat

Khaki Burberry Trench Coat

The other Burberry trench coat is in a classic khaki color. The buttons were replaced and it was a second-hand piece that I got from someone; I can not remember how much it cost. This one is the classic trench coat with all the bells and whistles and details such as epaulets, the belt with the D-ring, the hand warmer pockets, and rain flaps. What make this trench coat unique are two things; one, it has buttons that were replaced, they are brass buttons with a crest and they are kind of vintage looking. On top of that, it has a nice removable lining that is made out of wool which comes in really handy if you live in an area where it may get a little cooler in the winter but not super cold. 

Herno Trench Coat

Single-Breasted Gray Trench Coat

Last but not the least, my fourth trench coat is a gray single-breasted one from Herno made for Max Dietl in Munchen. Herno is an Italian brand and they specialize in fur coats, so while the fit and look of this trench coat is not very appealing (in my opinion), I only bought it for its mink fur lining, which costs probably around $5000 new. I got this one for $200 from eBay and I am going to take out the liner with the zipper and put it into another overcoat that I need to be really warm, because mink, with its fine under-hair, is extremely warm.

With trench coats, you do not really need a scarf. I like to wear gloves with them, especially unlined gloves, because it is about the right weight and insulation that you need when you wear a trench coat. I like suede gloves in red or navy but I also like to wear my driving gloves maybe in green or petrol blue or red.

Short Overcoats

These are usually an option for people who do not live in a very cool climate, or who just do not like the look of a long traditional overcoat.

Peacoat

Pea Coat

Mine is from the US Navy. It is an officer’s coat, and you can tell by the golden brass buttons. It is hard-wearing, made of 100% wool, and was very inexpensive. I got mine from eBay for under $100.The great thing about it is it comes in many different sizes, regular lengths, and short lengths. You just have to know your measurements and see that you get something that fits you, otherwise, they can be a bit roomy.

Most pea coats out there will have black anchor buttons. I like the gold officer’s buttons–but from 1974 to ’84, they also had ones with pewter buttons which I would like even more, it’s just a little harder to find. I combine my pea coat with contrasting gloves and scarves. That means nothing too dark. For example, a yellow cashmere herringbone scarf and pretty much anything else would work, too. Just avoid black, dark brown, or navy scarves or gloves.

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a vintage double-breasted check plaid overcoat from Austin Reed with an Alpaca double-sided scarf and leather gloves

Short Overcoat from Austin Reed

I bought it at a gigantic flea market in Brimfield,  Massachusetts for $10. I would think it is from the ’60s or ’70s, as it has a bolder pattern and a nice, heavy weight so it is very easy and quick to put on, it has a little belt, and because the pattern is strong, I typically combine it with solid scarves and solid gloves. I try to tone down the colors, more neutrals, browns, or tans. You could maybe wear red gloves, but because the pattern of the coat is already so loud, I try to tone the accessories down. Sadly, this great 100% wool coat is no longer available because the brand Austin Reed does not really exist in its original shape anymore.

Business Overcoats

These are overcoats that I would wear with traditional charcoal or navy three-piece business suits. Typically, they are made out of finer materials, such as cashmere or higher twisted wool. More often than not, they are medium to lightweight because you just wear them to and from the office. Typically, you do not want something that is well suited for an Antarctic exhibition. Why? Well, if you wear it on top of a suit, chances are you may sweat and that is not desirable.

Chester Barrie Overcoat

Midnight Blue DB 4×1 Coat from Chester Barrie

I like this coat because it is buttoned on the lower button and the 4×1 button configuration is unusual. It is 100% cashmere, it is a medium weight, I’d say, and I bought it for $100 from eBay. Because it is dark, it could also be worn with a tuxedo, which is great if you do not have a separate evening overcoat. It looks great for business with, let’s say, a gray pair of gloves or something darker like petrol.

For a more casual look, you can maybe wear brown gloves or chamois yellow gloves, orange gloves, or red gloves. In terms of scarves, I think a subtle pattern with a solid overcoat always looks good. If you want it to be true business, maybe you get it in dolphin gray so you have enough contrast, but it’s a traditional business color. If you want to be a little louder, you can maybe go with a yellow scarf, something orange, or maybe something green, or basically, any other contrasting color.

Light Navy Cashmere Coat

Single-Breasted Light Navy Cashmere Coat

It’s made by Sidi GFT in Italy, and it uses 100% Loro Piana Cashmere. It is a little heavier than the double-breasted one but otherwise, you wear the same kind of accessories with it.

Black & White Herringbone Overcoat

Black & White Herringbone Overcoat

My black and white herringbone overcoat is double-breasted. It is a vintage piece, it was made by Malcolm Kenneth. It’s made from 100% Stonehenge cheviot wool. It has nice details such as oversized flap pockets and nice big ulster collar without any buttonhole and a half-belted back. The color pops up nicely which I like in the winter, because it protects my neck from the wind. It also has a decent length which allows me to stay warm. It was sold at Dayton’s (a local department store many years ago), and I bought it for $50 at a vintage store locally.

Barleycorn Pattern Overcoat by Chester Barrie

Barleycorn Pattern Overcoat by Chester Barrie

My last business overcoat is a special one from Chester Barrie which has this unusual fabric consisting of gray, blue, and black yarns. It has a barleycorn pattern and so from afar, it looks like a solid color, when you come more up close, you can see the pattern. Because it contains all the traditional business colors, it is very easy to combine it with any kind of business suit. The cut is a typical double-breasted paletot coat, and you can learn more about the details in our paletot guide. What makes it special is the contrasting black velvet collar. That collar definitely makes you stand out from the crown in a very debonair way.

I think this coat looks great with black gloves or gray gloves, because it is a very business-like color. For scarves, I’d say go with something that has a light pattern such as our wool silk scarves which have classic paisleys. Of course, a pattern like herringbone will work too. When you want to increase the formality of this overcoat, add a fedora hat to it, like a dark one, for example, with maybe a printed burgundy scarf and petrol gloves. Just like with the other business overcoats, you can pair it with lighter accessories but the brighter they get, the more casual your overall look becomes.

Casual Overcoats

I like to wear flannel suits in unusual colors and patterns or tweed jackets or cardigans. For these, a traditional business overcoat is not the right option. Instead, you want to go with something that is a little more casual in terms of the details and the fabrics.

British warm overcoat paired with cognac colored gloves from Fort Belvedere

British Overcoat

The first one I bought was a from Gieves & Hawkes. It cost me about $200-$250 and I bought it from eBay in the UK. It is very heavy, it has leather buttons, it has a smaller peak lapel and epaulets that shows there is a military heritage to that coat. The shoulder’s a little wide for me, but it’s really heavy and so I love to wear it in the winter, especially with a brown fedora hat and brown gloves and a darker patterned scarf. You can see, you always want your accessories to be slightly contrasting to your overcoat. This one can be worn with a pocket square or alternatively, you can just put your gloves in there when you don’t wear them, let’s say, when you are inside.

Green Duffle coat

Bright Green Overcoat

The original Montgomery in a very bright green is made in England, it’s a size L and it is 90% wool and 10% polyamide which is nylon. It wasn’t super expensive, it cost less than $100, it was on sale directly on their website yet I have not worn this coat really more than the single time when I took videos of it. Why? Well, it is quite bold and it is not subtle. It was my first duffle coat and it is quite casual, it has these wooden toggles, as well as a hood so you do not need an extra hat. That being said, it is such a loud color that if you wear it, you have to really tone down your accessories and go with something darker or brown otherwise, it becomes too clownish.

DB navy overcoat, brown corduroy, tan shoes, burnt orange and gray scarf from Fort Belvedere

DB Navy Overcoat

Another recent addition is a great double-breasted navy overcoat which is made out of a boiled wool. I bought it at Bobby from Boston for about $200, but it is a bespoke coat from a tailor in Sheffield. It is really heavy, has a nice ulster collar, and it keeps me really warm, especially when I put on the belt. It does not have typical flap pockets of a business overcoat–instead, these are more like hand warmer pockets. Just like the other navy overcoats, it’s really fantastic with colorful accessories and because it’s more casual, the sky is really the limit, whether it’s orange, red, yellow, green, a turquoise, you can wear everything with it.

Donegal Tweed Overcoats

Donegal tweed overcoat. fedora hat, Fort Belvedere yellow gloves and blue scarf

I’ve had the Donegal tweed overcoat pictured above for a long time. It was made by Marshall Fields. I suspect it is from the ’80s or ’90s. The tweed is not super heavy, but it has these rich colorful flecks which allows you to wear pretty much anything in terms of color. Because it’s such a bold pattern with all the colors, you better stick with solid gloves and scarves. I bought it on eBay for under $100. It has a half belt as well as turnups/cuffs and a seam on the outside sleeve. Normally, you would expect the coat of this kind to have an ulster collar just like this, but this one has a peak lapel which makes it more formal which is kind of funny, because it is in contrast to the patch pockets with the flaps which are more casual.

Donegal tweed overcoat

Similarly, the next overcoat is a Donegal tweed overcoat but I bought it in Germany in 2015 at a flea market for €5 when it was 90° or 30° Celsius outside, so no one else was interested in overcoats so I picked it up. It was made in Germany and I really like it because it has bold flecks in a bold pattern, but it’s overly neutral; shades of brown, black, off-white, and because of that, any accessories in that color palette will work and look really well without being over the top. It has beautiful patch pockets, a nice ulster collar, and it is double-breasted but it has a very slim button stance which is different than other coats I have. It features a belt which I like to use, and it has a little detail on the sleeves too. Again, because the pattern of the overcoat is so bold, I keep it mostly with accessories that are in a solid color.

Cavalry Twill Overcoats

Loden Frey Overcoat

Another casual piece is this cavalry twill overcoat. It comes from a big department store with clothing in Munich, Germany which is called Loden Frey. It’s pretty lightweight for a woolen overcoat, but it is a very tightly woven twill that has a diagonal pattern on the overcoat. it has hand-warmer pockets, epaulets, a back belt, and leather buttons in brown. I like the pockets because they are very easy to reach in and out of. The belt in the back makes it a little more unique, and the epaulets just highlight the military heritage.

Like I’ve said many times before, overcoats are great when they are double-breasted, because it means you have two layers of fabric over the center of your body which will keep you warmer when it is colder outside. Because it is a solid overcoat in a neutral or natural tone similar to that of a trench coat, you really look best in it if you pair it with patterned scarves and contrasting gloves in a color. It can be gray, but you can also go with a dark burgundy, for example.

Heinz Becker overcoat

I have another cavalry twill overcoat that is a little heavier, and it is a bespoke piece from Heinz Becker in Munich. I also got it second hand and I like it a lot. It has a bunch of special details; we’ll start with the buttons, which are metal. It has, of course, some epaulets and a half belt in the back. What makes it special are the flap pockets, which are angled, and the big turnups on the side. It is heavily military-inspired, and on top of that, the most unique detail is probably the chest pocket, which has a flap; you can tell it’s a bespoke piece because of that. I have never seen something like that off the rack. I typically wear it with contrasting gloves and scarves.

Fur Coats

Fur coat

My first fur coat, in nutria, is double-breasted. I bought it many years ago on eBay, and I think it did not cost me more than $300. While fur coats are not very popular for men these days, they used to be extremely popular in the 1930s. Yes, even in the US, men would wear fur when they would go and watch football games, for example. The fur of the nutria is not as good as that of beaver, but it’s a large rodent that is similar to beaver. Because of the fine under-hair, it is really warm when you wear it, but the look is best if you pair it with a fedora hat. Honestly, a fur coat would keep you really warm even if it is terribly cold outside, and if a fur on the outside is too much for you, maybe consider a fur lining like beaver or mink.

The other fur coat I own, I bought at a flea market in Hamburg, Germany. I am not 100% sure, but I think it is rabbit, because it does not have that fine under-hair. That being said, it’s a very soft coat and it is still plenty warm. Unfortunately, it sheds a little bit since it is old, but I do not mind that. Since both my fur coats are dark, I like to pair them with lighter or neutral accessories such as red gloves, green gloves, and a matching patterned scarf.

Evening Overcoat

Evening Overcoat

Last but not the least, probably my favorite overcoat is my evening overcoat. It’s very rare these days–to the extent that most people do not even know what an evening overcoat is, let alone have one. The only way to get them now is to have them made bespoke. This one was made by Hermann Vohrahlik in Germany, and it is probably 60 or 70 years old. I bought it on eBay years ago, because I saw that the lapels were silk-faced and very contrasting from the black wool fabric. The interior is lined with high-quality black silk from edge to edge, and it just turns over onto the lapel. It has a single closing button and a very deep V.

It’s actually made to be worn just over the top of your tuxedo, and it’s more a decorative piece that is supposed to keep a black-tie outfit protected from the harshest elements. In other words, it is all about the looks and not necessarily about keeping you 100% warm. That being said, it is a heavy, old fabric, and with just one closing button, you can take it off very easily. Typically, it is worn with a homburg for a black tie tuxedo, or a top hat if it’s a white tie ensemble. It is also combined with an evening scarf, either in white silk or black-and-white silk, and you can wear it with a white linen pocket square and white evening gloves.

Which overcoat from my collection do you like most? Let us know in the comments!

One of the staple items in casual menswear is a pair of denim jeans. While it is a basic piece, wearing it stylishly can be a challenge for some gentlemen–which is why today, we’ll discuss how to find the best jeans for your style and your body type.

Origins of Denim Jeans

Most of us have an idea of what denim is, but not many people know where it comes from or why it was created. By definition, it is a sturdy cotton twill fabric, typically blue, used for jeans, overalls, and other items of clothing. In the late 17th century, in the town of Nîmes, French weavers created a serge fabric. When this fabric was later transported to England, it was then known as “Serge De Nîmes.” This later became the English word “denim.”

Native American construction workers clad in denim

Meanwhile, jeans are hard-wearing trousers made of denim or other cotton substances, used primarily for informal wear. The word “jeans” comes from the French term for the Italian city of Genoa, “Gênes.” In 1873, a tailor named Jacob W. Davis was contacted by a client who wanted trousers that were going to wear well for her husband. Working with Davis, Levi Strauss was the initial supplier of denim in the USA. In the 20th century, denim’s blend of comfort and durability made it ideal for workwear; as an example, in the uniforms for the staff of the French National Railway.

How Is Denim Created?

Cotton is harvested, and the seeds are separated from the fibers. The fivers are spun into yarn, the yarn is dyed to a specific color, and then that yarn is woven into denim. Denim can be processed in a few different ways, which we’ll cover here.

Raw Denim

This is denim that has not been washed after it’s been dyed. The color might be more rich than any other washed denim, but the fabric will almost certainly let out extra dye when washed or agitated. By the way, our post on cheap and easy laundry hacks has a tutorial on how to color-set your denim, in order to subvert this common problem.

Raw denim

Selvage Denim

The term selvage (or selvedge) actually comes from two different words, “self” and “edge,” and refers to the edge of the fabric after it leaves the loom. The fabric is edged against itself, therefore making it more durable, as it will not unravel. This edge is created by continuously passing the weft back and forth through the warp. Fun fact: it actually takes about three yards of selvage denim to create one pair of jeans.

Selvedge denim, as you might expect, is edged against itself

Other Components of Denim Creation

Other than the process, another popular added component to denim is some amount of spandex; it adds range of motion and a lot more comfort for the wearer. Typically, you’ll see 1-3% being the average amount of spandex added to denim. However, you will find yourself paying for this added benefit, as the addition of spandex does shorten the lifespan and the durability of your jeans.

How Should You Buy & Style Denim?

Find Your Body Type

Understanding where you fit within the broad spectrum of body types will help you know what to shop for. There are three main body types that most men will fall into, though not everybody is going to fit squarely into just one body type. Many people will find that they have components of many of these different categories.

1. The first category is the ectomorph. This is also known as Cerebrotonic. This individual is very lean with narrow chest and shoulders. They typically have very low body fat and maybe have a more difficult time putting on size.

Preston’s thin build means he is an ectomorph

1. The second major category is the mesomorph, also known as Somatotonic. This individual usually appears muscular and appears quite strong and usually will not have a major amount of body fat on them. A narrow waist and broad shoulders is usually seen within these individuals.

Kyle is more of a mesomorph

1. The last major category is the Endomorph, also known as a Viscerotonic. These individuals usually have narrow shoulders and carry a little bit more body fat. They may have a fuller body image and at times, may appear pear-shaped.

Sven Raphael Schneider is an endomorph

Paying attention to your overall body features, bone structure, and how easy it is for you to put on size and muscle will help you understand where you fit within the broad spectrum of body types. For example, I find that I usually can fit into the mesomorph category a little bit easier, as I can put on muscle and keep that off fairly easily.

Buy Based On Your Body Type

Ectomorphs, for example, have a much simpler time wearing slim, skinny, or even a more modern spray on style than people of other body types. The more endomorphic individual usually finds that a regular or relaxed fit would fit better. A straight fit might also work as long as it’s not uncomfortable on the hips and seat. Mesomorphic individuals have a little bit more wiggle room in terms of what they can choose for denim styles. For these individuals, muscle size and their waistline will help determine what styles they should wear. If you happen to be somebody who is more muscular and has larger thighs, but you like to wear things that are a little bit more trim, you might want to opt for something with spandex, or look for a straight fit.

Spray on jeans do not belong to a classic gentleman’s wardrobe

Of course, being at the Gentleman’s Gazette, we want to remind everyone that anything tighter than a slim fit is usually outside the scope of classic men’s style. If you like to wear really skinny or spray-on styles, that’s fine–but do understand that they don’t usually mesh too well with classic men’s styling.

Choose a Denim Color

If you’re anything like me, you might be somewhat surprised when you go to the store–who knew there were so many different shades of blue? It’s always fine to have some fun with quirky, interesting colors, but we recommend starting with the foundational hues first.

Dark Wash or Indigo

This color is very deep, offers great versatility, and always looks great with a sport coat or a sweater. Be aware, the dye is quite rich and can transfer on to other fabrics so color setting is very important.

Mid brown Jodhpur boots with dark-wash jeans

Medium Wash Denim

This is a great year-round choice that you can easily pair with sneakers, boots, a polo or even a button-up shirt.

Allen Edmonds Chukka boots paired with denim jeans

Light Wash Denim

This particular color is usually going to look best in the summer, and overall warm months. This color also tends to look a little bit more casual than its darker counterpoints.

Agnelli in light washed denim with watch on top of shirt cuff

What Should You Avoid When Buying Denim?

It’s important to take a few extra minutes in that fitting room and make sure you’re not seeing issues arise. Before mentioning any specific points, we’ll caution against the so-called “Canadian tuxedo” of denim jeans and shirt. Style icons like Gianni Agnelli and Ralph Lauren might be able to make it work, but the average guy will simply look out of place.

Too Much Detail

A small or subtle amount of distressing in a casual outfit is acceptable from time to time, however, wearing jeans with exceptionally large holes, distressing, and strange designs are wholly unacceptable for a business setting.

Embellished, overly faded jeans are a DON’T

Fit Is Too Tight

You don’t want to overemphasize certain areas of your body. Watch out for pull lines, aggressive pattern twisting, and pocket outlines on your thighs, these are all red flags that if you see them happening in the mirror, you should either try a different size or a different fit altogether. Jeans that are too tight will be uncomfortable and are going to be more prone to tearing. Bending over to tie your shoe and having your pants ripped should be saved for a comedy sketch, not real life.

Fit Is Too Loose

Even if it cost you a pretty penny to purchase, ill-fitting jeans that are too loose will look sloppy and look like you did not add too much effort into your outfit that day. If your body type requires that you wear a looser fit, go ahead and wear them. However, wearing loose clothing just for the sake of wearing loose clothing will make you appear sloppy and dwarfed by the garment.

An older man wearing baggy and sagging jeans

Where Should You Buy Denim?

• On the low end, Wrangler, Gap, and Levi’s all provide great options. On average, these can be found between $50-$75.
• In a market range price point from $100-$200, you could look at 7 For All Mankind, Hudson, Joe’s Jeans, J Brand, or AG.
• For a slightly higher price point of over $200 and up ,you could look at brands like A.P.C, Paige, Diesel, also Givenchy, Rag & Bone, Citizens of Humanity and they all provide great options.

Levis Tack Selvedge Denim

Keep in mind, there are much lower- and higher-end options beyond what’s listed, and what one person might consider a low price point, somebody else might consider an extremely high price point. Although it’s fine to be frugal, I always like to remember the saying “You get what you pay for.” If you opt for a less expensive or “fast fashion” pair of jeans in the beginning, you’ll pay for it in the long run in the lack of longevity and quality. Likewise, spending more money does not equate to having eternal jeans. All man-made garments have a lifespan, and the more you wear something, the shorter that lifespan is, regardless of what the price tag says.

Wolverine 1000 Mile boot in cognac with blue denim

If you find that you really enjoy a particular color, you could always buy multiples of said color. Similarly, if you find that you really enjoy a particular fit, it might be wise to purchase multiple colors in said fit, so that you have multiple options for outfits. Also, it’s very important to try before you buy. If you’re unsure of some of the brands we mentioned above, whether you’re browsing online or shopping in the physical store, it’s important to take those extra few minutes to test out your daily movements with those brands in the fitting room.

Levis denim fit table

Conclusion

Remember that the easiest way to understand what you should be shopping for is to best understand your body type. Also, keep your style preferences in mind, as well as your budget. When all these are in check, you should have no problem finding what denim works best for you.

What’s your take on wearing denim as a gentleman? Do you have styling preferences for your jeans? Share with us in the comments!

With the arrival and growth of email over recent decades, there is still something to be said for penning formal letters and cards, which are the written equivalent of classic menswear–that is, an antidote to the fleeting fashion of the day. Here’s our guide to proper etiquette when putting pen to paper.

In our current digital age, past communication practices, like sending a fax or a message via snail mail, have fallen by the wayside. And since the advent of mobile phones and text messaging, the need for formality in written communication has also languished. Still, in an age where “Thx” and “TL:DR” dominate communications, we believe that taking the time to hand-write a missive will make its recipient appreciate it all the more.

A letter written by Beau Brummell, auctioned by Bonhams

When to Write a Letter or Send a Card

The purpose of writing a hard-copy letter nowadays is most often personal, and mainly to express one’s sentiments. Sending a physical letter or card to someone adds a level of humanity to the communication, enhancing the emotional value of the message; whether it be a thank-you, congratulations, a get-well wish, or an expression of sympathy for a loss.

Letters or cards can also be sent to business clients or colleagues, though the personal connection would still be the main motive. For most standard business communication, from job application letters to notices and requests, a formal letter format might be used, but the document will be sent in the form of an email. This article will concentrate mainly on the etiquette surrounding a personal message written on paper and delivered via mail, though some of the advice can be translated to letter formatting in any medium.

Handwritten thank you card

Making it Special: Paper Choice

Speaking of the medium, when writing a letter, the significance of the message should be reflected in the time and attention put into its creation. This means choosing stationery or card-stock that is of sufficiently high quality. With cards, it’s fairly easy if you buy them pre-made, as the weight of the card will be decided for you, usually in the area of 80lb or 200 gsm (grams per square meter). However, it is still important to select the right color; something that is professional or restrained like cream or beige, rather than bright yellow or neon green.

It’s useful to draw a connection to classic menswear again, and choose a color that would be appropriate to wear on your person. With stationery for letters, the same principle applies, but you are also looking for paper that is smaller than the standard American 8.5″ x 11″, to avoid resemblance with business communications. Select paper that is somewhat heavier and thicker too, which will feel noticeably different than everyday printer paper when held in the hands of the recipient.

Postage stamps can add further personalization and interest to the envelope

Stamps and Seals

An overlooked aspect of making the message appear to be something significant is using a postage stamp, rather than having the letter run through a postal meter. You can select the image on the stamp to suit the occasion (and the reader in some cases), such as a holiday theme. Metered mail looks like business correspondence. For a truly unique touch, you might seal the letter with wax, using a signet ring or a seal made for this purpose along with the appropriate wax stick. After using the regular adhesive on the envelope, melt some of the wax onto the edge of the envelope closure and allow the pooled wax to cool for a few seconds; then press the signet or seal into the wax.

An ornate red wax seal

You can buy peel and stick facsimiles of wax seals, but these are the equivalent of the clip-on bow tie and should be skipped in favor of the real deal. A wax seal adds a touch of elegance or nobility to a letter, though always make sure it is appropriate to the type of communication. For instance, it would be suitable for an invitation or thank you but pretentious or inappropriate in a condolence letter.

Handwrite Your Letters and Cards

Another key aspect of a letter or card that gives it metaphorical weight is its handwritten nature. In our technological society, not only has letter writing become a lost art, but so has writing anything by hand with a pen. So, when something is handwritten, it can be considered special. This includes the letter or card itself, as well as the envelope.

The person who writes the inside missive should be the same one who addresses the envelope. Avoid using a return address label, since its printed nature clashes with the handwritten addressee information in the middle of the envelope. Besides, slapping a label on the outside comes across as a time-saver, which is the opposite of showing care and effort.

As a rule, avoid return address labels, in favor of matching the handwritten quality of the main addressee information

You don’t need to be a trained calligraphist, but writing clearly and neatly in cursive script, using black or blue ink, is ideal. This is not as easy now as it might have been twenty years ago, as even our grocery lists are typed into phones, so we can be out of practice! Take the time to write slowly and carefully, to ensure your words are easily legible.

Writing with a fountain pen is even better, as the thicker and darker ink will make the letter look more elevated and less ordinary than if it’s written with a ballpoint. Only if your penmanship is utterly abysmal should you type and print out a personal letter or card. If you have to do this, at least sign it personally, as well as write the envelope by hand. Still, in cases where the letter is typed, it can feel like a form letter rather than something individualized.

A handwritten letter of condolence

How to Address the Reader

Dale Carnegie, of How to Win Friends and Influence People fame, states that “[a] person’s name is to that person, the sweetest, most important sound in any language.” Therefore, make sure you do not misspell the name of the person you are writing to, as doing so will immediately alienate them. There are a great many established rules related to addressing people by name when sending them letters or cards.

Dale Carnegie knew the importance of using someone’s name properly

Names on the Envelope

As we’ve already said, the same person who writes the card should be the one to address the envelope. Traditionally, the envelope should be addressed using honorifics and last names, as in “Ms. Joan Smith” or “Mr. Sven Raphael Schneider.” If writing to a married woman, use “Mrs.,” but use “Ms.” rather than “Miss” as the modern female equivalent for “Mr.” when writing to a single woman. “Mx.” is often the preferred honorific for gender-noncomforming individuals.

Traditional way of addressing an envelope to a married couple

When writing to a married couple, the traditional form of address used to be putting the man’s name first and erasing the woman’s name (and therefore her individual identity) completely, as in “Mr. and Mrs. Sven Raphael Schneider.” In fact, this is still done in formal communications, especially in Britain. However, in the 21st century, we would suggest at least providing both first names, as in “Mr. Sven Raphael Schneider and Mrs. Teresa Schneider.” Frankly, if you are friends with both individuals, it seems even better nowadays to go with “Raphael and Teresa Schneider” on the envelope.

Another issue that can arise with names is if you are sending a card to a couple, but only know the wife. If I’m sending an invitation to my boss, Joan Smith, and her family but I am not acquainted with her husband, it seems ludicrous to address an envelope with his name ahead of hers. In the past, when women were limited in their public roles, one wouldn’t easily know a wife independently of her husband, but times have (thankfully) changed, and John should not be so insecure that he needs to be first.

Envelope addressed to a same-sex couple

The rules of letter writing etiquette were also created at a time when only heterosexual relationships were acknowledged, so they need to be adjusted for same-sex relationships. Married couples would be addressed as “Mrs. Jane Smith and Mrs. Joan Smith” if they have the same surname, or “Mr. Tim Jones and Mr. John Smith” if they do not, generally with the names in alphabetical order.  For all couples who aren’t married, regardless of gender, put the names on individual lines, using alphabetical order.

Finally here, addressing a coworker with whom you go bowling as “Mr. John Smith” when sending him and his family a Christmas card seems overly formal, and will likely result in jokes. So, you can decide, based on the circumstances and your relationship with the individual, how much formality to retain.

Names in the Card or Letter

All of that was just how to address part of the envelope! For the letter or card itself, you would want to use the standard “Dear” plus the recipient’s name as the greeting. If you aren’t on a first-name basis with the person, use an honorific and surname and then a colon; “Dear Mr. Schlueter:” would be an example. If you and the recipient are well acquainted, you would use the first name followed by a comma; “Dear Preston,” is an example.

Other variations for multiple people could be “Dear Raphael, Teresa, and Preston,” or “Dear Kyle and Family.” At the end of the message comes the final name in the letter–your own. This is called the “complimentary close” or the valediction, and is traditionally made up of “Sincerely,” with your signature below it. For the sake of variety, you can try other wording such as “Cordially,” “Warm Regards,” and “Kind Regards,” or more informally, “Regards” and “Cheers.” Unless you are writing a love letter, avoid excessively sentimental closings like “Yours Faithfully” or “Yours Truly.”

“Best Regards” is a suitable complimentary close

Other Considerations of Etiquette: Tone

When doing any piece of writing, the first two considerations should be audience and purpose. Knowing your audience and the reason for writing helps determine the proper tone, among other things. So, for an expression of sympathy, you wouldn’t want to choose a jokey card or include a lot of levity if sending a letter. Similarly, if you’re thanking an important person for a favor, it’s likely best to maintain a respectful tenor. However, it is also essential to be sincere and authentic, so your tone won’t come across as being false.

If you’re normally not religious, for example, then don’t take this approach in your message. With this in mind, it is also almost always better to purchase quality blank cards rather than getting a pre-written sentiment. Not only might it not be true to you, but it is less meaningful than taking the time to put your own thoughts and feelings into writing.

Probably not the best choice to send to a grieving person

The Timing of Written Messages

As significant as what you write and the “how-to” aspect is the “when;” timeliness is equally important. A thank-you letter or card should be sent as quickly as possible after the event or action you are writing about. Considering that US mail can take up to three days or even a week to arrive, it’s a good idea to send your thanks within 24 hours. Congratulations and get-well cards should also happen quickly.

While it would obviously be great to have an ill person get well in a jiffy, it would be strange to have your well wishes received after they’ve recovered.  To avoid having cards arrive after a birthday or holiday, a two-week buffer is recommended, especially if people are likely to display the card on their desk or mantle. Christmas and New Year’s greetings are usually sent during the first week of December for these reasons. The specific situation of offering condolences requires you to do so within two weeks of the loss.

Orienting the Paper

A final but not-insignificant consideration is how to arrange the papers of a letter in the envelope, or how to orient a card. First, if your letter is multiple pages in length, the recommended practice is not to staple or clip them. Whether to write on both sides of a sheet of paper is open to debate, though it’s probably best not to. Doing so saves mailing weight and paper, so could make you seem like a cheapskate, while also making the document look “crowded.” This can also lead to bleed-through of the ink, making reading difficult and the document look sloppy.

Since you shouldn’t be writing a novel, two pages at a maximum should fit readily into the envelope with writing only on the front of each sheet. Fold the paper evenly in thirds or halves (depending on the shape of the paper and envelope), with the writing hidden on the inside of the fold–another reason to write only on one side.

Ink can bleed through when writing on both sides of a sheet (left)

Where cards are concerned, the approach is different. First, refrain from writing on the reverse of the front cover. If the message is longer than the space allows, continue onto the back of the card (though there is much to be said for the ability to be concise). If the card is oriented horizontally, position the opening at the bottom of the envelope and the front of the card facing the envelope flap. That way, when someone opens the envelope, the card front will be facing them and they can pull it straight out and read without flipping it around.

The proper orientation of a horizontal card

For a vertical card, arrange the open side of the card so it faces the top of the envelope, again with the front facing the flap. When a right-handed person pulls out the card, he or she will be able to open and read it without turning it about. If you know for a fact that your recipient is a lefty, then orient a vertical card so the opening is in the bottom of the envelope.

The proper orientation of a vertical card

Conclusion

There are myriad rules related to naming conventions alone when sending a card or letter, not to mention other specifics of the process, so you may need to consult a larger manual, but we hope we’ve touched on the most common situations here. Letter writing may be a dying art, but it doesn’t have to stay that way. In the era of “fast casual,” “slow and formal” carries extra meaning–all the more reason to revive aspects of handwritten personal communication.

Do you write letters and send handwritten cards? What has been your experience? Share in the comments section below.

In this installment of our Is It Worth It? review series, we take a closer look at the iconic men’s scarf from Burberry (in their trademark check and made with 100% cashmere) and find out whether it’s worth the hefty price tag.

A Brief History of Burberry

Burberry was established by its namesake, Thomas Burberry, in 1856 with a simple mission: to protect people from British weather. A few years later in 1879, Burberry developed gabardine fabric which, at the time, was a breakthrough in terms of weatherproofing fabric. Gabardine cotton is a traditional fabric used even in trench coats today, and Burberry is closely associated with the trench coat.

Thomas Burberry

In the 1920s, for the first time, Burberry trademarked their signature checked lining. Many call it Nova Check, though Burberry themselves call it “Vintage Check” today. Basically, it’s a traditional checked pattern with a beige or camel-colored background and black-and-white plaid on top, as well as a red windowpane. Today, Burberry calls the base color “archive beige.” Just like many other heritage brands, Burberry has moved away from offering functional items and toward being a high-fashion brand. Because of that, Burberry uses their trademark check for branding all over the place. They also have an interlocking “B” branding, but it’s far less iconic than the Nova Check.

In my opinion, most of Burberry’s fashion-forward clothing and accessory lines today are a far cry from their elegant past. Nevertheless, the Burberry check is still synonymous with Burberry as a brand. Today, you can find this check plastered all over sneakers, handbags, scarves, and even overcoats. In fact, you can even find shirts, wallets, and shorts in Nova Check plaid. While the Burberry check used to be a hidden detail on the inside that wasn’t visible to the wearer, it’s now on the outside and it’s screams to everyone “Look at me, I can afford this.” That being said, the classic Burberry scarf with a Nova Check is one item that could still be worth having in your wardrobe, because it has such an iconic design on a small, quality item.

The Nova Check

The Burberry Check Scarf

As we always do, we wanted to buy the most iconic and traditional version of the scarf–that meant a classic pattern in their “archive beige” color-way. As it turns out, what Burberry calls the “classic check” is, in fact, an oversized check that comes in 33 different color-ways. What we wanted, though, was something more appropriate for gentlemen; this was the “classic vintage check.” Unfortunately, that one only comes in nine color-ways, not including the archive beige. We picked a scarf that was as close to that color as possible, which is called “antique yellow.”

In my mind, both background colors are camel colors. Frankly, I was surprised I couldn’t find the original-scale scarf in the traditional color scheme, but that just shows to me that Burberry doesn’t care all that much about their heritage anymore. Honestly, a glimpse through the men’s cashmere scarf section on the Burberry website confirms that; there are a lot of designs out there, not much classic stuff. Burberry offers a range of different scarf materials, and we went with the king of scarf materials, cashmere. On the website, it retails for $470. We got ours at Bloomingdale’s, which is an official retailer of Burberry scarves, for $430.

Burberry antique yellow cashmere scarf

Details

These days, Burberry scarves are heavily faked; because of that, you can find a lot of tags in the scarf. There’s one regular tag, two care tags, and one hand tag. Fake Burberry products often have issues with the details–maybe the R on the tag is not quite like the one on the original, or there’s no serial number. On this original Burberry scarf, you have the little hang tags and you can see that Burberry bears the Royal Warrant of Queen Elizabeth II, as well as Prince Charles.

While going through their product description on the website, unsurprisingly, Burberry provides very little detail about the scarf. We learned that it’s 168 centimeters by 30 centimeters, which is 66.1 inches by 11.8 inches wide. Frankly, for men, that is quite short, especially if you want to wear it as a sling around your neck. In terms of weight, there’s no information but we weighed the scarf and it just comes in under 150 grams, which is about 5.25 ounces. It says the scarf is made of 100% cashmere, but as we learned in our Cashmere Explained guide, not all cashmere is alike.

Burberry FAQ section

Where It’s Made

If you dig through their FAQ, you’ll learn that they’re made in Scotland at two historic mills, one in Elgin and one in Ayr. Unfortunately, Burberry doesn’t tell you exactly what manufacturer makes each scarf, but if you dig a little deeper, you’ll find that in Elgin, there is a manufacturer called Johnstons of Elgin. I watched one of Burberry’s videos which describes how their scarves are made, and the Johnstons of Elgin factory is depicted. On the other hand, in the Scottish Ayr, there’s a company by the name of Begg & Co which also produces high quality cashmere scarves. My guess is that Begg and Johnstons of Elgin are the two producers for Burberry scarves.

Both producers have been making and weaving cashmere for over 150 years, and they’re known for their high quality. Because of the reputation, they’re likely also more concerned about the quality they put out. Frankly, I was a bit surprised to read on the Burberry website that the scarf was treated with teasels to create that soft finish known from a good cashmere scarf. You can see it utilized in their video, and that’s certainly an added production step that is more expensive. That being said, Johnstons of Elgin and Begg both use teasels in their finishing process. Unfortunately, what they don’t share in that Burberry video is the origin of the cashmere, the quality of it, the staple length, or the thickness.

Combed under hair cashmere fibers

Material

These days, all high-quality raw cashmere has its origins in Mongolia and China. Begg claims to utilize cashmere that has a thickness of 15-16.5 microns but doesn’t mention anything about the staple length. Johnstons of Elgin neither mentions the thickness of the material nor the staple length on their website. So what does good quality cashmere look like? In a nutshell, a quality woven cashmere scarf should not be stretchy; once you pull it in another direction, it should spring back into shape. Also, higher-quality cashmere usually comes in a tighter weave. That being said, if we’re testing the Burberry scarf for those two things, it passes with honors. It’s a very densely woven cashmere, it springs back into its original shape.

Fort Belvedere VS Burberry

Burberry vs. Fort Belvedere

Price Points

With a retail price of $470, how does the Burberry scarf stack up compared to other cashmere scarves on the market? Let’s take a look at this Fort Belvedere cashmere scarf, which retails for $195. It comes in a range of classic patterns, or solids without any bold logos or branding. Just like the Burberry scarves, Fort Belvedere uses the finest Mongolian and Chinese cashmere. The cashmere runs anywhere from 15-16.5 microns thick, which is just as thin as what Begg uses. We also use long cashmere fibers that are between 35-50 millimeters long. The cashmere yarn is woven into scarves in Germany, rather than in Asia.

The weight of a Fort Belvedere scarf is about 120 grams (which is just about 4.25 ounces), so it’s about 30 grams or an ounce less. It’s also finished with natural teasels to create that soft nap. In terms of dimensions, it’s also 30 centimeters (about 12 inches) wide, but it’s a full 6 inches longer, measuring in at 180 centimeters. For men, I find that length to be perfect; we tested many sizes and we finally settled on this length, simply because it is fine if you wear it in various styles.

Cashmere Scarf for Men in Blue Herringbone Pattern 72 x 12 inches – Fort Belvedere

Feel of the Scarves

Frankly, I think the Burberry scarf is woven a little more densely. At the same time, the Fort Belvedere scarf feels a lot softer to the touch. The Fort Belvedere model has a more extended nap, and I like the feeling of it on my skin more. A Fort Belvedere scarf is obviously 20% lighter but the retail price is also 59% lower. If you compare weight to weight, the Fort Belvedere scarves cost about half of what Burberry’s cost.

The Burberry scarf can be a little too short for men

Is the Burberry Scarf Worth It?

First of all, I think scarves are fantastic products for cashmere because that’s where you both need the warmth and enjoy the softness. Unlike a cashmere sweater, you don’t really have to worry about friction and pilling because you just don’t get that when you wear it around your neck. For $470, you get a high-quality cashmere product, made in Scotland at a high level, with lots of hand labor involved. It will likely last for years to come and if you consider the cost per wear, it’s economical. If, for some reason, you don’t like it anymore, chances are that you can resell your Burberry cashmere scarf for a much higher value than regular cashmere scarves in the market.

That being said, there are lots of fakes out there, and people might think you’re selling them a fake unless you have the original purchase receipt and all the tags still on–but when wearing it, I don’t like having these big tags on my scarf. So if you want to take them off, maybe take a video of them, in case you ever want to sell the scarf. Even though the quality of the cashmere is extremely high, I really dislike the dimensions; 160 centimeters or just 66.1 inches are simply too short in my book.

Burberry Antique Yellow Cashmere Scarf

I still find this classic vintage pattern attractive, even though it has been so heavily utilized by Burberry. If you don’t like this color-way, Burberry has 8 other ones, and you can even get your initials embroidered onto your scarf. Personally, I think a classic herringbone pattern is better suited for a classic men’s wardrobe than this Burberry check, though, because it’s almost like a brand name–like a big H from Hermes or a Gucci belt that just screams, “Look at me, I can afford this expensive product.”

However, if you like the pattern of a Burberry scarf, I think the scarf can be worth it. You’re getting, after all, a high quality product. Also, if you don’t mind paying twice as much to comparable cashmere scarves and you really want that Burberry feeling, then it can be worth it for you. In my personal opinion, the shortness of the scarf is a deal-breaker, and therefore not worth it for me. If you don’t care about that, I think it can be a viable option if you’re prepared to pay $470 for it.

What is your take on the Burberry scarf? Do you own one, or would you consider buying one? Let us know in the comments!

Brooks Brothers is now more than 200 years old and it has played a defining role in shaping the course of American style and menswear. With this said, though, are their offerings worth buying today? Here are our thoughts on what to buy (and not to buy) from Brooks Brothers.

In many ways, they served to democratize style, making clothing more accessible, affordable, and wearable for the masses. They’re known for their quality, conservative looks, and for manufacturing in the United States for most of their history. They’ve outfitted 40 of the 45 American presidents and pretty much every star during the Golden Age of Hollywood wore Brooks Brothers clothing.

Despite this illustrious history, though, they have had to change with the times–both for the better and for the worse. As clothing has gotten more and more casual day-to-day for most people, the classic staples that Brooks Brothers is known for have gotten less and less popular over time. Also, the quality of much of their product has declined slightly over the years as some production has moved overseas. This, of course, isn’t an uncommon story in men’s ready-to-wear fashion.

History of Brooks Brothers

Brooks Brothers is probably the oldest and most famous American clothing company that’s still in existence. It was founded in 1818 by Henry Brooks and his sons inherited the company hence the name Brooks Brothers. In 1849, they were the first company to introduce ready-to-wear clothing and the next year in 1850, their famous Golden Fleece logo was adopted.

Brooks Brothers in 1818

One of Brooks Brothers’ most famous customers around this time in the mid 19th century was Abraham Lincoln. In fact, he was assassinated wearing a Brooks Brothers suit. While Lincoln himself was a loyal customer, the Union Army which he presided over did not fare so well when it came to their Brooks Brothers clothing. The company secured the contracts to outfit the Union Army by somewhat questionable means. Also, when quality wool became scarce, they pressed together decaying rags and other scraps of fabric into something resembling more quality garments, and then outfitted the Union Army.

Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece Logo

Unfortunately, these uniforms didn’t stay together very well and they literally fell apart the first time they were used in battle when it rained. The Union Army eventually spent $45,000 (equivalent to about $11 million in today’s money) to replace these poor uniforms. Brooks Brothers didn’t lower their prices for these shoddy materials and in fact, the word “shoddy” was coined at this time to describe the poor and somewhat fake product that the Union Army had been given.

Vintage Brooks Brothers Ad

Here’s an interesting fact: from 1865 to 2003, Brooks Brothers did not produce a ready-to-wear black suit. There are multiple theories as to why this is. The first of these is that they didn’t produce a black suit out of respect for Abraham Lincoln who, as we said, was killed while wearing a black Brooks Brothers suit. Granted, however, his was bespoke because of his tall and thin frame. The more likely explanation, though, is that Brooks Brothers typically catered to a more well-heeled clientele, and black suits were not often worn by these upper classes (usually only by servants and the deceased). Whatever the case may be, they have indeed offered a ready-to-wear black suiting option since 2003.

Sack Suit by Brooks Brothers without vertical front darts

In 1870, the company was the first to introduce seersucker suits, but they wouldn’t really see popularity for another 30 years or so. Also, around the turn of the 20th century, they introduced what would become one of their more popular and successful models, the sack suit. This style would become synonymous with Brooks Brothers, as well as American suiting more generally. The more generous cut of these sack suits allowed them to fit a wider array of body types off the rack, and thus they were very financially successful for the company.

OCBD Oxford Cloth Button Down Shirt by Brooks Brothers

Also around the turn of the 20th century, John E. Brooks invented the OCBD or Oxford cloth button-down shirt. He had observed shirts with button-down collars during a polo game, and the OCBD would go on to become particularly popular among athletes like tennis players in the 1920s and ’30s. In addition to its casual styling, this was largely because of the breathable weave of the fabric used to make the shirts. Later on, mid-century style icons like JFK and Gianni Agnelli would go on to make the OCBD an iconic menswear staple.

Madras by Brooks Brothers

In 1902, they introduced the Madras fabric to the United States. Also, they introduced the “Repp” tie to the United States altering the direction of the regimental stripe so that it could be worn by civilians instead of just military personnel, as had traditionally been done in the United Kingdom.

In 1908, they would import foulard (or block silk printed) ties from the United Kingdom to the United States. F. Scott Fitzgerald’s 1920 publication, This Side of Paradise, made many references to Brooks Brothers and it would, in turn, influence the style of many college men across the United States. Later, Brooks Brothers would introduce clothing lines based around Fitzgerald’s work, The Great Gatsby, when it was adapted for film.

Gatsby Club blazer display at Brooks Brothers on Madison Ave

In 1946, the Brooks family sold the company to Julius Garfinckel & Company, which would actually make the overall style of most of the company’s garments even more traditional than they had been before. In 1953, working with DuPont, Brooks Brothers released Brooksweave, a fabric that blended cotton and Dacron for a no-wrinkle finish. We mentioned John F. Kennedy before, and he also famously favored the “number two” style Brooks Brothers two-button suit, which showcased his youthful style. The company would change hands again several times over the ensuing decades; it’s currently owned by the Brooks Brothers group which is, in turn, privately owned by the Italian billionaire, Claudio Del Vecchio, the son of the founder of Luxottica eyewear.

Brooks Brothers Today

Today, Brooks Brothers does still maintain some manufacturing in the United States–however, it’s important to note that not many fabrics are actually produced and woven here in the US. So, when things are manufactured in the United States, what they’re today mostly referring to is the assembly of these fabrics. Products currently made in the US include their Golden Fleece line of suits, many of their 1818 line of suits (but not all), ties which are cut and piled in Long Island, and many shirts (but again, not all), which are made primarily in North Carolina.

Mad Men 1960’s Style

We should also note that Brooks Brothers clothes are an important staple of many historical film production companies and TV presenters. In addition to The Great Gatsby, Brooks Brothers suits were also commonly seen on the television show Mad Men, and late-night host Stephen Colbert is outfitted exclusively in Brooks Brothers suits. So, as you can tell from this long (but not completely faultless) historical overview, Brooks Brothers has been a staple of the American menswear scene for many many decades. They deserve respect for influencing the style of menswear in every era since their founding, as well as democratizing the suit.

What Should You Buy from Brooks Brothers?

Brooks Brothers is a full-service clothing house, so they offer a wide variety of products. Let’s go over what they currently offer to discuss what you should incorporate into your wardrobe. By the way, you probably won’t be surprised to hear that we mostly advocate you stick to the classics!

Brooks Brothers White Tie shirt with stiff single cuffs incorrectly described as French Cuff Tuxedo shirt

Tuxedo Shirts

The first item we recommend you buy is tuxedo shirts. Black Tie, of course, has a relatively strict dress code, and when you want to get all of the details right, a Brooks Brothers tuxedo shirt can get you there. They offer both pleated front and bib front models, and also offer a detachable wing collar, if you’re truly into that crisp look.

A classically styled pair of formal pumps from Brooks Brothers, featuring pinched bows.

Opera Pumps

Along those same lines, the next item we recommend you pick up if you’re so inclined is a pair of traditional opera pumps. These are the most formal shoes that a man can wear, suitable for both Black Tie and White Tie, and Brooks Brothers still offers them.

Brooks Brothers Merino Wool Fisherman Sweater

Sweaters

Sweaters are, of course, a classic winter addition to any man’s wardrobe when worn in the correct way. By this, we mean that there are many styles of sweater that Brooks Brothers offers, but there are a select few that we would actually recommend. You should probably opt for classic styling, and by this we mean things like turtlenecks, cardigans, v-necks, and shawl collars. Conversely, you probably don’t want to get anything with zippers, crew-necks, or hoods. Also, rather than synthetics, you should go for natural materials like cotton, wool, merino, and cashmere.

Crewneck sweaters are best avoided.

We’d recommend that you opt for heavier weight sweaters, as there are several reasons to avoid thinner ones. Fine or fine-gauge knit sweaters are thin and kind of useless, as they won’t keep you very warm and they also won’t be as durable. Furthermore, any layers you wear underneath them will probably show through. For all of these reasons, opting for thicker weights of knitwear will be best.

You’ll also want to go for classic patterns and colors like fair isle, tennis sweaters, solids, or melange solids (where the yarn is multiple colors), and rich colors like green, red, blue, and purple that will contrast nicely with a variety of looks. Consider, for example, some of the following: a merino wool fisherman sweater, a cotton shawl collar cable cardigan, lamb’s wool fair isle sweaters, roll neck cardigans in merino wool, or cotton turtleneck sweaters.

Elliot Fit Stretch Advantage Chinos

Chinos

We did a little survey on our YouTube community page asking what you’d like to see us mention from Brooks Brothers, and chinos came up repeatedly. Now, we can’t speak to this from personal experience, but there are a number of factors that point toward Brooks Brothers chinos being a great pair of pants.

1. The first would be their relatively wide range of colors, which includes all of the usual and neutral shades plus a variety of bolder options, as well.
2. They’ve also got six different fit types, which is impressive, and they offer both pleated and flat-fronted models, as well as ones with or without cuffs, depending on your preference. Rather than being offered in the standard and somewhat vague small-medium-large scheme, they are offered by waist size and inseam size, so you can get a better fit. They’re made from stretch cotton twill, which is typically a blend of 98% cotton and 2% spandex. The spandex isn’t exactly classic, of course, but it’s certainly better than something like a polyester or rayon blend would be.
3. Finally, they’re treated to be wrinkle-resistant. Not everyone necessarily considers this to be a bonus, as wrinkle-free or wrinkle-resistant fabrics are typically treated with a formaldehyde solution, which may give some men pause. However, if you do appreciate the convenience factor of wrinkle-free and wrinkle-resistant clothing, the option is there in their chinos. In fact, Brooks Brothers claims that its “Advantage” chinos are one of its bestsellers.

Brooks Brothers Camel Hair Polo Coat

Overcoats

Brooks Brothers is one of the few off-the-rack companies that still offers a variety of overcoats in natural materials and classic silhouettes. They are often pricey, as you’ll typically spend anywhere from $500-2000, but the look is quintessentially classic; if you treat the garment well, you should get many years of use out of it, therefore bringing that important cost-per-wear metric down considerably. Stick with more traditional overcoats, though, and don’t go for the more modern options like leather jackets, bomber jackets, waxed cotton, down-filled jackets, and so on (as other brands do these styles better).

A Belstaff Trialmaster jacket would be a superior leather jacket choice.

We’d recommend a classic silhouette in a natural fiber-based coat like wool, merino wool, cashmere, camel hair, or a blend of these fibers. Also, skip the nylon and skip the color black, as everybody has a black overcoat, it’s a lifeless color, and it’s ultimately kind of boring. Most of their overcoat options come in colors like navy, camel, and charcoal so you should go for those instead.

Some models are even double-breasted, and they can come in subtle and elegant patterns like herringbone, Prince of Wales check, or windowpane. Take a particularly close look at their 100% camel hair polo coats in either single- or double-breasted configuration. Brooks Brothers pioneered this look and made it famous in the 1920s and ’30s, and camel hair is warm and durable, so these coats are a particularly smart option. Other models to consider would be top coats, Chesterfields, and officer’s coats.

Traditional Relaxed-Fit Dress Shirt, Non-Iron Button-Down Collar

Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirts (OCBD)

We would, of course, be remiss if we didn’t mention the OCBD which was, in fact, Brooks Brothers’ invention. They have fine fit options, from slim to relaxed, and they come in classic styling, patterns, and colors. Also, the look of these shirts is meant to be a bit more relaxed, so it is okay if the fit isn’t 100% perfect for you.

A non-iron dress shirt from Brooks Brothers

Non-Iron Dress Shirts

Brooks Brothers’ non-iron dress shirts did also come up repeatedly in our comments, but again, we don’t have any personal experience with them. Still, they do have something of a cult following. As we said before with the chino pants, this non-iron claim is largely sourced from the fact that these shirts are coated in a formaldehyde solution; this may not necessarily be something you want up against your skin, and it can also come out in the wash over time, meaning that non-iron quality might become less effective. They’re often offered in bundles of four shirts for $199, so they are fairly reasonably priced. Non-iron dress shirts certainly aren’t for everyone, but if it’s something you think you’d be interested in, they might be worth a try.

Brooks Brothers Peal & Co.® Perforated Captoes

Shoes

We also recommend their shoes; specifically, the models that run under the Peal & Company brand name. Although Peal & Company actually doesn’t exist anymore as a shoemaker in its own right, Brooks Brothers purchased the brand in the 1960s, and since then, they have continued to produce shoes under that name to this day. The shoes are typically made in England, most commonly by Crockett & Jones, and they feature classic styling and a Goodyear welt.

They’re typically priced at around $700–so again, they’re not inexpensive, but they will sometimes be offered on sale. If you could get a pair at 50% off, for example, this would be a good deal. One problem you may encounter is that they don’t seem to restock very often, sometimes just once a year, so they do tend to run out of the most common men’s shoe sizes. Also, you may sometimes find that they’re offering cordovan shoes which are made by Alden; this is another trusted men’s shoe brand, and if you do see them on offer, we’d recommend you pick them up.

Brooks Brothers Tartan Flannel Pajamas

Pajamas

They are offered in a wide variety of styles including thin robes, checked cotton flannels, or shirt fabric styles. Not every man wears traditionally styled pajamas, of course, but if you’re in the market for that sort of thing, Brooks Brothers does have some good options.

Preston Schlueter wearing a vintage Brooks Brothers tie

Vintage Items

Our final pick in the what to buy category is vintage Brooks Brothers items. As with a great many clothing brands, the overall quality of Brooks Brothers garments has declined slightly over time but they did have higher quality standards in the past. If you happen to run across Brooks Brothers products in good condition in vintage shops, don’t hesitate to buy them.

What Are No-Gos From Brooks Brothers?

We’d say first off that you should avoid trendier items. For example, a $75 wristband or a cable-knit hooded sweatshirt. Trendy pieces like these really aren’t Brooks Brothers forte and as such, we’d say that you should steer clear of them. Also, we wouldn’t recommend their socks as they’re often in a polyester-nylon blend and they’re too short, so they will often slide down. Conversely, we’d recommend something like an over-the-calf sock in silk or cotton, and we offer several models like these in the Fort Belvedere shop.

Pink and gray shadow stripe socks from Fort Belvedere

Other items we’d recommend that you avoid from Brooks Brothers would include t-shirts, sneakers, bomber jackets, jeans, and backpacks.

Conclusion

The Brooks Brothers brand has stood the test of time to become a true American menswear icon. While not all of the items they offer these days are exactly things that we would recommend, there are still several products we think are good buys.

If you’ve got any other suggestions on what to buy or avoid from Brooks Brothers, share with us in the comments section!

If you’ve been to Europe in the winter, or to similarly cold and snowy places, it’s likely that you’ve seen men (and some women) wearing long and sturdy overcoats, walking comfortably while staying unruffled by the cold. One such style is the loden coat (alternatively referred to as the loden cape)–and we think it deserves a closer look.

Fabio Attanasio in a classic green loden coat outfit.

Origins of the Loden Coat

This particular style of coat has its origins in the Alps, particularly the Austrian state of Tyrol. Regarding its name, however, “loden” is actually a collective term for how the fabric of the coat is made. The term is derived from “lodo,” an Old High German word which means “rough fabric.”

Originally worn as workwear by farmers, shepherds and huntsmen, the loden was designed to be a protective, functional garment against the harsh winters of the Alps. The material used needed to be weather-resistant and easy to clean. According to a 1573 edict issued by Archduke Ferdinand II of Tyrol, these so-called “peasants” were ordered to wear only wool, linen and loden. Finer, more delicate fabrics were a symbol of sophistication and prestige, reserved only for nobility and the church. This would hold true for centuries, until loden made its way to the cities of Europe.

Ferdinand II, Archduke of Further Austria (including Tyrol)

Loden Makes its Way to the Nobility

In the early 19th century, Archduke Johann was commissioned by his brother, then reigning Emperor Franz II, to the Tyrolean Alps after his army faced defeat against the French revolutionary forces. There, he developed a deep appreciation of the alpine lifestyle and culture, marrying a commoner and wearing loden garments. Hunters in the area observed the Archduke wearing loden and followed suit.

During the reign of his nephew, Emperor Franz Joseph I, who was a hunter, the Tyrolean people were commissioned to produce loden wool exclusively for the Emperor. In the age of Romanticism, the nobility developed a growing interest in folk culture, leading to the widespread adoption of loden and making it a signature fabric for aristocrats’ garments, diminishing the notion of it being for the working class.

In the 20th century, loden coats made their way to the metropolitan cities of Europe and the United States. They remain a reliable classic to this day.

Sheep produce most of the world’s wool

How Loden is Made

Producing loden is a long and careful process, making it a staple material for prestigious, classic European clothing. Expert shearers remove a naturally oily, blue-green wool from alpine sheep. The wool is woven loosely and treated through wet finishing or milling; it shrinks, becomes dense, and is given a felt-like finish with teasels. Then, it is brushed and sheared up to 20 times until the desired napped, fuzzy surface is achieved. It can be dyed any number of colors, such as red or black, but the most popular shades today are brown and a rich, dark green (echoing the natural color of the wool fibers).

Vintage photos of loden coats paired with their natural companion, Tyrolean hats.

What makes the Loden Coat Special?

Because of the highly deliberate process of how its fabric is made, a loden coat has unique characteristics that make it extraordinary. Apart from being a dapper wardrobe staple, here are some reasons why this classic never goes out of style.

It Keeps You Warm–Really Warm

Designed as a functional garment in its earliest days, the loden coat is renowned for its weather-resistant properties, keeping out the cold, wind, rain, and snow of harsh winters. The fabric’s structure regulates the temperature of the body to manage extreme cold. Meanwhile, the sturdy form keeps the wearer looking stylish while also staying warm.

Even in the mid-20th century, magazines such as this German publication were still exhibiting loden coats (in this case, in three different styles)

It’s Water-, Oil-, and Even Fire-Resistant

The process of brushing and combing the already-resistant raw wool to finish the fabric makes it largely impermeable to water. Following some more careful rounds of treating and brushing, the fabric is also made oil- and fire-resistant. In this way, loden can be seen as one of the first high-performance, durable, and easy-to-clean fabrics to be manufactured. It may sound as if nothing can get through it, but the loden coat, fortunately, doesn’t fall short of being breathable. The intricate interlocking of brushed wool creates microscopic pockets that let air pass through.

A vintage French fashion advert depicting various styles of loden coat

It Will Stand the Test of Time

Only the most natural and durable raw materials are used in a quality loden coat. Think of it this way: the thick wool of the alpine sheep protects the animal from the cold, and even from injuries. That’s why, when well cared for and cleaned, a loden coat can be maintained for decades, if not longer. Best of all, the style is timeless, so a loden coat is truly a classic piece made to last for generations.

The abundance of coats in various forms and made from different materials has diversified menswear over the centuries. As each style has served different aesthetics, levels of comfort, and functions, men have had myriad options. And while some were simply trends, the loden coat has remained a timeless piece worthy of investment. Its rustic-yet-refined style elevates winter outfits while withstanding the cold.

Loden Suit & Topcoat

How To Wear The Loden Coat

Suits

Being a versatile overcoat, the loden can be worn over suits for more formal business attire. With minimal details, the signature moss-green models can be combined with staple suiting shades like navy, charcoal, and brown, and even pinstripe or chalk-stripe patterned suits in muted or minimally contrasting colors. Suits in textured wool fabrics also look great with the loden coat, while adding further insulation in the fall and winter seasons.

Checked Tweed in Green with flap pockets

Sport Coats

Echoing our advice for suits, so too can the loden coat be worn with a combination of sport coat and odd trousers. In particular, the similarly rustic-to-refined tradition of tweed means that ensembles incorporating a jacket of this fabric would be well topped-off by a loden coat. Our recommendations for color are in line with those for suits. (As a brief aside, consider an odd waistcoat, as well!)

Trousers

Returning again to the point of textures, corduroy trousers in brown, gray or tan provide a smart contrast to a loden coat. For more casual ensembles, you could try chinos or jeans–but as advocates of classic style, we’d recommend you do so cautiously. It’s important to strike a good balance in the level of formality of the outfit; while the loden coat is quite versatile, anything less formal than something within the “Smart Casual” dress code would be a bit of a stretch.

Sven Raphael Schneider wears a green windowpane jacket with a flat cap, red unlined suede gloves, corduroys and chukka boots

Shirts

When it comes to shirts, a wide range can be worn with the loden coat–from white or light blue dress models to button-downs in checked patterns. These combinations provide contrast while maintaining a classic aesthetic. You might also try darker-colored flannels for a more muted or monochromatic look.

Knitwear

Another stylish partner for the loden coat is knitwear. Sweaters in blue, brown, or gray (over dress shirts) not only provide additional warmth, but also pair the supple texture of the coat with the light and comfortable feel of a knit. In more modern or casual styles, turtlenecks could also be worn under the loden coat.

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a brown lambswool turtleneck sweater from Uniqlo

Shoes

For footwear, brogues and wingtips are ideal options to pair with the loden coat, to maintain just the right amount of formality and casualness. While they come in a variety of colors, brown, oxblood, and grey suede provide a good contrast and complement loden well. When leaning towards a more casual look, desert boots are also a good choice.

Gloves & Scarves

Gloves and scarves are classic additions to a cold-weather ensemble. Other than increasing one’s insulation for colder climates, they also provide a pleasing pop of color. Burgundy, tan or chestnut gloves look smart–and for added convenience when using mobile devices, touchscreen models are available on the Fort Belvedere Shop. For scarves, lighter colors like orange and yellow draw attention to the face, and patterns will add personality to the ensemble as a whole.

Burgundy Men’s Dress Gloves with Folded Reversible Scarf in Dark Green & Red Silk Wool Motif & Check

More Accessories

Classic outfits are always best supplemented with accessories. Solid or mottled knit ties add texture under the loden coat. Ties with paisley, polka dots, and striped or checked patterns also add style when worn in a harmonious color combination. In this case of a traditional green loden coat, hues like blue, deep purple, red, and orange are good options for suitable contrast and visual interest. In the same way, bow ties look great as well.

For a less obvious element of contrast, you can wear socks in different colors or patterns; for example, shadow stripes. Colored shoelaces are great, too. Just remember that choosing the right shade to complement your loden coat is key.

Green suede full brogue with purple shoelaces by Fort Belvedere

Conclusion

From its rustic, alpine origins to its time as the fabric of choice for the Austrian royal family and nobility, the loden coat stands today as a maximally versatile, elegant option for the fall and winter months. Whether you opt for one in the signature green shade or in a different hue, you can be sure that a loden coat will keep you both warm and stylish for decades to come.

Do you have a loden coat in your wardrobe? How might you wear it? Share with us in the comments below!

If you wear a suit to work every day for important meetings, sometimes it may seem that all the shoes you see are black or brown oxfords. Fear not, though, as there are many more opportunities for creativity here, which we’ll discuss today.

Changes in office dress codes across the globe have actually enabled men to wear a much broader range of shoes and boots to the office. Switching up your footwear can really create an interesting and fresh take on your regular suit, especially if you also change up a few accessories.

Dan Trepanier – Brown business suit

General Tips To Combine Business Suits & Footwear

In general, business attire is a rather formal dress code; as such, you’ll need formal shoes. That means your shoes or boots should be all leather with leather soles. You absolutely don’t want to wear any trainers or sneakers with a business suit, nor modern kinds of oxford-sneaker combinations with thick rubber soles. Also, chunky, thick double- or triple-leather soles are not appropriate for all business suits, and neither are chunky rubber soles. It goes without saying that you should avoid any kind of contrasting materials, such as spectators either in leather fabric or maybe even cowhide.

Black “dress shoes” with blue soles – definitely avoid these kinds of shoes

In terms of the last, you want something that is classic and elongated, maybe with a rounded toe or a chisel toe but definitely no chunky square-looking toe boxes. In terms of colors and finishes, a classic box calf in black or other darker colors, such as oxblood or chocolate brown are your best bet. Avoid any crocodile or stingray leather, or something like elephant, because they’re too exotic. Maybe you can pull them off if you’re the boss. If you’re not, it’s not the best option.

If your office is a bit more relaxed and you want to add a dash of color, maybe consider adding a pair of shoelaces in a different color, because that really changes the look of your entire shoe combination. Generally, a shoe paired with formal business attire should cover the entire foot, which means no loafers with a deep cut, for example, and when you wear a double-breasted suit, skip loafers altogether because they’re too informal.

A pair of protective overshoes, from Swedish brand Fred&Matt

If you live in a cold climate and you have a lot of snow in the winter, avoid wearing your really nice dress shoes directly to the office–maybe have them at the office, or cover them up with rubber protectors. Alternatively, a pair of lined winter boots that keep your feet toasty warm while heading to the office could work, after which you’d switch into your nice dress shoes.

What Are the Footwear Options for Business Suits?

It all starts with the oxford, of course, and derbies. It doesn’t matter if it’s a cap-toe, a semi-brogue, quarter-brogue, full brogue, or a wholecut. These days, single- and double-monk strap shoes are also very office appropriate.

In terms of boots, Chelsea boots, Balmoral boots, Jodhpur boots, and even button boots are all office appropriate.

Footwear Styles & Colors

Black Oxfords with navy trousers

If you can just afford one pair of business dress shoes or boots, it should always be black. It’s the standard for business attire. Still, when you put together a combination of footwear and a suit, you always want to opt for some element of contrast. If you have a black suit, maybe have a pair of gray striped socks with your black shoes, would be a good choice.

On the other hand, if you have a navy, dark blue, medium gray, or charcoal suit, the black shoe would provide enough of a contrast that you can just get socks that are matching to the pants or that picks up the color of an accessory, your shirt, your pocket square, or your tie. If, for some reason, you’re not a big fan of black, you can go with a dark chocolate brown (sometimes in Italian, it’s called testa di moro), or a few shades lighter. Nothing bright red or light tan, though!

Oxblood derby shoes

Personally, my favorite shoe and boot color for business suits is oxblood. Why? Because it’s different than the typical black shoe, dark enough to be taken seriously, and it provides enough contrast to always be visible and visually interesting. As a general rule, a pair of dress shoes will always be a little more formal than a pair of boots when combined with a business suit. Of course, there are exceptions to the rule.

For example, black Balmoral boots sometimes come with a suede insert in the same color, and formality-wise, they’re about as formal as a pair of cap-toe oxfords. They look really great with a stroller ensemble (which isn’t technically a suit, because it’s a black jacket with striped pants), a traditional staple in formal office wear. The other option for a stroller or anyone who loves vintage is a button boot. Oftentimes, they come in contrasting leathers such as black and white, and while they’re a little more flashy, they’re traditionally considered to be office-appropriate.

Dark brown chelsea boots with Light Brown and Blue Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks by Fort Belvedere with glen plaid trousers

A dark brown Chelsea boot with a blue elastic insert will always make your suit more casual and less formal. If that’s too flashy for you, consider a chocolate-colored suede Chelsea boot, because it has a rougher texture which makes it a bit more casual. In general, in today’s office environments, it’s totally acceptable to wear, and it just adds a bit more character and individuality to your outfit. One way not to pay attention to yourself at the office is to avoid crazy socks.

Pairing Business Suits with Various Shoes and Boots

*Note: be sure to watch the corresponding video to get a complete sense of all the outfits featured here!*

This pair of black oxfords will work well with a Navy Single Breasted Suit

Navy Single-Breasted Suit

Here’s an example for a classic business suit with notched lapels and flat pockets, paired with a classic business tie like a red Prince of Wales check tie, silver cuff links with a monkey fist knot by Fort Belvedere, and black oxfords. In this pair of shoes, I opted for a bit of broguing on the cap toe, which makes it a “quarter brogue.” To add a bit of contrast between the dark navy suit and my black shoes, I went with navy blue shadow striped socks from Fort Belvedere.

If you want it to be even less formal, switch out the white linen pocket square for something printed in silk, get a bolder tie, and maybe switch up the oxfords to a black pair of double monk strap shoes. Of course, a navy two-piece suit with different colored vests can make all the difference, even though the rest of the accessories, including the shoes, remain the same. 

Olive green shoes with navy trousers

Lighter Navy Blue Suit

If a dark navy suit is too formal for you, the next notch up would be a slightly lighter blue suit, which could be a dark blue or a very light shade of navy. A nice dark blue suit that’s double-breasted with peak lapels is great with a Winchester shirt. A small boutonniere would lighten things up, but you can always skip it in a business context. Olive green shoes would be novel but conservative, and harmonious socks would finish the look.

Wingtip monk strap shoes with Fort Belvedere socks

Instead of going lighter with your suit shade, you could also add a subtle pattern, such as a faint windowpane, which relaxes the suit and the overall look. For this outfit, I chose a brownish-red, full-brogue monk strap from Crockett & Jones as a combination, but I could have also worn something in a more oxblood shade, which would have worked maybe even better than this pair. Regardless of what shoes you choose, the shadow striped socks again work well, because they pick up the color of the suit.

Solid & Patterned Gray Suits

half brogue black oxford

This suit has a subtle undertone of brown, with a very faint reddish stripe. Because of that, it is a little less formal than a solid gray suit, but it’s still considered a business suit, especially since it is a three-piece suit with a double-breasted vest. When combined with a white shirt, white linen pocket square and a small dotted red tie, it is a quintessential business outfit. Here I went with a half-brogue black oxford. You can only see the burgundy and off-white shadow striped socks that pick up the color of the tie if you lift up the pant leg, otherwise, it’s just a very harmonious business combination without any pop of color.

With the same suit, you could also try adding a blue tie with reddish tones and the same pair of reddish brown monk strap shoes from Crockett & Jones shown above; this would make the look a little more casual. Another smart footwear choice would be something like chocolate brown long-wing derbies from Allen Edmonds.

Charcoal Brown Business Suit

Charcoal Brown Business Suit paired with patina monk strap shoes

Charcoal brown, in my opinion, is a very underrated business color. It’s fantastic because it’s dark, just like a dark gray, yet the brown adds a certain element of warmth to it that is perfectly suited for today’s business environments. Here, I’m wearing it as a true three-piece suit with a double-breasted waistcoat, white shirt, and a gray and blue bow tie. The monk strap shoes I’m pairing it with have a beautiful brown patina, and they just provide enough contrast to the suit so they’re noticeable as shoes.

Charcoal Brown Business Suit with tan monk straps – a more relaxed vibe

Taking the same suit and switching up the accessories creates a very different look. If we switch the white shirt for a light blue shirt, the bow tie for a shantung silk tie in green, white, and purple, and add a purple and green madder silk pocket square, the look is a lot more casual and relaxed. Add an even more contrasting pair of tan monk strap shoes to the mix, and it almost looks like an entirely different suit. If that’s too much for you, you could go with more of a medium tan, which is still contrasting but less in-your-face.

Striped Navy Suit

This is the quintessential power suit and has remained a staple in business or office wardrobes. For a formal outfit, of course, you want to wear it with a white pocket square and a white dress shirt with French cuffs. If you pair it with a contrasting tie, such as a yellow one with a herringbone pattern from Hermes and maybe a pair of navy socks with yellow stripes that pick up the yellow of the tie, and black oxford shoes with a bit of broguing, you have a very classic business outfit.

Striped navy suits are best paired with black oxfords

For a personal note, you can add a little boutonniere, but that may not be appropriate for all workplaces. Whether the shoes are cap-toes, half brogues, or full brogues, doesn’t really matter as long as the color is black. If you want to dress down the suit even more, try something like a chartreuse colored knit tie and a purple boutonniere. Remember that the addition of unusual colors into an outfit definitely makes it more casual. Or alternatively, you could wear that same suit with a brownish printed tie, a burgundy polka-dotted pocket square, and reddish-brown monk strap shoes.

Dark Charcoal Flannel Suit

Whether it’s single-breasted or double-breasted, the dark charcoal flannel suit is a staple for business wear. Paired with a red madder silk tie from Fort Belvedere, cuff links, and black oxfords, it is a very formal business outfit, particularly in the winter months, because the flannel texture is a bit more casual than a worsted. If you want to add a dash of color to an otherwise very conservative outfit, always consider your socks.

Suede Chelsea boots paired with a flannel suit

If you wanted to take that same suit and make it a bit more casual, keep the white shirt and the white pocket square but add a two-tone white and brown knit tie, as well as brown chocolate-colored suede Chelsea boots that are not as high. Just like flannel, suede is a more casual texture, and because of that, those two work really well together. So if you have a flannel suit in a dark gray or a medium gray, always consider pairing it with either lighter medium or darker brown suede shoes or boots. It will always look the part.

Brown Herringbone Suit

In this example, my suit has a mohair color and burgundy tones which work well with the rest of the outfit. I’ve chosen to pair it with a blue tweed vest and double-soled tan boots from Trickers to create a very unique outfit in blue and brown.

Tan double soled boots from Trickers worn with brown herringbone suit

Medium Gray Windowpane Suit

Another cool suit for casual offices would be this medium gray flannel suit with a bold white or off-white windowpane. Because it’s such a bold suit pattern, you have to tone down the rest of your outfits and boots. Here, that means white shirt, white pocket square, and solid tie, paired with a pair of black balmoral boots with a black suede insert.

Gray windowpane suit with black balmoral boots

Note that I exchanged the laces with Fort Belvedere shoelaces in gray that pick up the color of the suit to provide some contrast and tie everything together.

Gray Donegal Suit

This ensemble consists of a light blue shirt, the same blue tweed vest, and a mottled pink silk knit tie from Fort Belvedere. Together with a burgundy and blue silk-wool pocket square and blue suede boots, it’s just a very unusual outfit that stands out from the rest of the crowd. If you are just starting out, I think blue suede boots are over-the-top, but if you’re like me and you already have all the basics covered, experimenting with different colors and textures can be a lot of fun.

Blue suede boots paired with a Donegal tweed suit

Brown Houndstooth Suit

Last but not least, one of my favorite casual suit looks, for example, for casual Fridays in the winter, is this suit which is a houndstooth of brown and off-white. I’m pairing it with a turtleneck sweater in a medium brown that provides enough contrast. In combination with mid-brown suede chukka boots, you get a nice blend of earthy tones that is casual and relaxed yet more formal than a regular dress shirt with Chino slacks. 

Mid brown suede chukka boots with a houndstooth suit

How do you select footwear to pair with your suits? Share with us in the comments!

When it comes to the classic patterns of menswear, those based on the geometry of the square–checks, grids, and plaids–have a long history that remains popular today. In this primer, we’ll discuss the different kinds of square and rectangular patterns in tailored clothes and show you how to “check yourself” without wrecking yourself.

Because men typically want to project a serious, businesslike demeanor when wearing tailored clothes, the most popular patterns are not overly ornate but are based on the simple geometry of the line: one being stripes, and the other checks. These two basic patterns can create greater interest than simply wearing solids while still looking subdued and formal, though there is always the opportunity (or risk!) of making them quite bold.

Don Draper (Jon Hamm), Pete Campbell (Vincent Kartheiser) and Ken Cosgrove (Aaron Staton) – Mad Men

What are Checks?

Checks are defined by horizontal and vertical lines that cross one another at right angles, forming squares or rectangles on the cloth. Therefore, they are always more complex than stripes, which also means they tend to be bolder and more informal.  The particular ways these lines intersect and the combinations of colors used to create different named patterns, which we will discuss below, though, for convenience, I will use the word “check” as an umbrella term that includes all patterns that are based on these intersecting lines.

Plaid and windowpane suits (with a chalk stripe in between) from 1936

Types of Checks

1. Graph Check

The simplest pattern based on squares is an evenly spaced grid made up of thin lines in a single color, called a “box check” or “graph check” because of its resemblance to graph paper. Graph check usually appears on shirts, and probably the most common version is a white shirt with a navy blue grid, making for a pattern that is definitely conservative and office appropriate; however, red, green, yellow and other colored grids can also be found. Usually, the boxes of a graph check are small, around a quarter inch, and the rule is that bigger squares make the shirt more casual.

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a classic blue graph check shirt

Small boxes easily accommodate a tie, because the simple pattern doesn’t assert itself that much. If the grid is larger, say 3/4″ to 2″, the look seems more casual. You can still wear a tie, perhaps a knit tie from Fort Belvedere, or something with texture, but an open collar looks good too with a larger grid, especially in warm weather. Whatever the size of the grids, properly lining up the rows of squares on the parts of a shirt that are made from different pieces of cloth, like where the shoulder and sleeve meet, would be a hallmark of quality to look for.

2. Windowpane

When a graph check contains larger squares, the pattern may be referred to as windowpane, referencing windows that have divided panes, which are rarer today than they once were. The term isn’t used as much for shirting as for tailored clothes: odd jackets, suits, and waistcoats. Windowpanes have supposedly come back into style in recent years, but true menswear aficionados know it’s a classic pattern that has been around for a long time. Although similar to the graph check, the grid formed by the crossing lines of the windowpane pattern often creates rectangles rather than perfect squares. These rectangles are always longer in the vertical dimension, tall rather than wide, which can create a subtle sense of added height in the wearer.

Brown Windowpane Suit Ralph Lauren Purple Label with Boutonniere, pocket Square and Tie

The lines forming a windowpane can be softly or strongly defined, broken up or even doubled. You can have a white grid on a blue base, blue squares on brown, beige on grey or any variety of complementary color pairings. The color of the panes and how defined the lines determine how bold or conservative the result is. Solid lines in bright colors are more assertive than muted lines. The density of the boxes also has an impact. If the panes are large on a jacket, it is can be more conservative than one with numerous panes since the multiplication of boxes makes the pattern louder.

Strongly assertive windowpane suits

3. Tattersall

Next up in terms of complexity is tattersall, which is the same as a graph check but it involves lines of two or more different complementary colors. Some possibilities are blue and black, green and blue, red and blue, or orange and blue to name just a few. The lines that make up a tattersall can be of different thicknesses or solidity, being clearly defined or faded back, but the size of the squares they form is always uniform.

Tattersall is actually named for Richard Tattersall, groom to the last Duke of Kingston, who founded a London horse market in 1766 that is still the leading auctioneer of horses in Europe today. Specifically, fabric in the pattern known as Tattersall was used for horse blankets in the late 18th century before seeing more widespread use.

Tattersall is mostly used for shirts and waistcoats, such as those sold by Cordings of Piccadilly, and has a traditional association with British country style, which is not surprising given its origin. Tattersall can be worn for rural pursuits, like shooting or fishing, perhaps with a horse or bird print tie, flat cap, and a tweed sports coat. As a vest, the typical tattersall has red and blue crossing lines on a buff or yellow ground, and wearing one is an appropriate homage to a classic style.

Ethan Wong of Sprezz x Style wearing a tattersall waistcoat

Yet, despite these associations, tattersall shirts have translated easily to office settings both in North America and the UK. This may be because the lines of two colors add to its versatility in combining ties. Less common is the Tattersall sports coat, though I own a couple for spring and summer wear, one with brown and beige lines and the other with two different shades of blue. To me, these have more of an Italian flavor.

4. Gingham

Gingham (sometimes called “Vichy” in Europe) is the simplest of the checks involving thicker lines, in this case, generally a single color crossing on a white background. Blue tends to be the most popular, though many colors of gingham are possible. The distance between lines is always regular, so the result looks like the typical checkerboard and is most often featured on shirts. An interesting aspect of gingham is that when the colored lines cross one another, they result in darker versions of the color, adding richness.

A recognizable form of gingham is the classic Italian restaurant tablecloth.

For many, gingham may evoke thoughts of picnic blankets or the red and white tablecloths in an Italian restaurant, and thus men who wear gingham are sometimes mocked by those who are ignorant of style. Nonetheless, the association of gingham with casual dining speaks to its nature as a casual fabric. It is also identified with rural simplicity, at least in the American imagination, a connection emphasized by the fact that Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz film wore blue gingham as did Mary Ann on Gilligan’s Island.

I personally associate gingham shirts with summertime and wear them by repeating the colors of the pattern in my other articles of clothing. For example, you could wear a green and white gingham with off-white pants and an olive green linen sport coat, or a blue and white gingham with navy chinos and an off-white jacket.

Hugo Jacomet wearing a trademark blue gingham shirt with a more formal outfit.

5. Shepherd’s Check

As its name implies, shepherd’s check is another rural pattern, this one originally used by Scottish shepherds on the border with England, so we have one check that originated with horse blankets (Tattersall) and another with sheep blankets. Shepherd’s check looks almost like a gingham but is distinguished by the visibility of a twill pattern. That is, you can see diagonal lines intersecting the squares, which makes the pattern more complex.

As with gingham, shepherd’s check usually appears as a single color on a white ground. Though it can be used on any article of clothing, in contemporary tailoring I have seen it most frequently on ties followed by jackets.

6. Gun Club Check

A connection to the country pursuit of shooting is embodied in the gun club check, though this time in America. This check is again of Scottish derivation, a “district check” typical to a particular area in the west Highlands. However, it was adopted by the American Gun Club for their overcoats and sport coats in 1874.

Andreas Weinas wearing a gun club check jacket.

Originally, a gun club check meant four colors of crossing lines–black, rust, gold, and green–designed as both an homage to the colors present in the landscape of the Highlands (similar to the nature of tweed) and as a kind of hunter’s camouflage; however, these days, it’s equally common to find gun club checks in only two colors, usually brown and blue. Like gingham and shepherd’s check, the lines in a gun club check are even and fairly thick, and like shepherd’s check, the diagonal twill pattern is visible. What makes gun club check unique is the presence of two or more colors, though such patterns may also be labeled shepherd’s checks, so identification can be tricky.

7. Tartan (“Plaid”)

The most complex checked pattern in menswear is tartan, formed by intersecting lines of varying thickness and any number of colors. Though it is not always the case, usually the squares and rectangles on a tartan are different sizes because the space between the lines does not have to be even. This flexibility, and the fact that new tones are created when different colored lines cross, allow for a great variety in the appearance of tartan cloth. To make matters more complicated, in North America the word “plaid” would be used to describe what is called a “tartan” in the UK, while “plaid” is used there to describe any sort of checked pattern.

Of course, tartans are associated with–you guessed it–Scotland, where individual patterns represent specific clans.  Given the brightness and busyness of tartans, they are casual in terms of everyday wear. Because the pattern is quite variable, many versions of plaid can be worn for sport coats, especially ones with evenly spaced squares, but, unless you are daring, traditional tartan (like Blackwatch) is worn best as a shirt (without a tie), accessory items (ties, scarves), if not a kilt.

Tartan adds a bit of playfulness to any outfit

In the United States, tartan shirts may be identified with cowboys and lumberjacks, especially when they’re made of flannel, reinforcing the rustic associations of the cloth. However, in Scotland and the UK, the tartan can be worn during highly formal occasions, such as at the Queen’s Garden Party, because it represents Scottish national dress.

8. Madras

The most famous plaid of non-Scottish origin is madras, an intense, bright, warm weather fabric that isn’t for the man who wants to fade into the background. Named after the city in India where it is woven (modern-day Chennai), Madras is a handwoven slubbed cotton. It resembles Scottish tartan in terms of patterns but incorporates colors more commonly found in Indian textiles, like yellow, pink, and orange, which are suitable for summer. Check out the Gentleman’s Gazette madras guide for an account of its fascinating history and how it became especially popular in the United States.

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a subdued madras casual jacket, great on vacation

9. Glen Check and Prince of Wales

Finally, we have glen check (sometimes also called glen plaid), which I mention last because it isn’t what I would consider a pure check if we are talking only about grids since it admits more than just lines; it also contains varied houndstooth patterns making up the lines and filling the blocks created by them. However, given its name and the fact that the crossing pattern of rectangles is visible, it definitely deserves a mention here as one of the most popular patterns in menswear.

Sven Raphael Schneider in Firenze wearing a vintage brown flannel glencheck

We could easily dedicate an entire article to the glen check and its history, though for now, suffice to say the pattern was first developed in Scotland (where else?) by Elizabeth Macdougall as her estate check, before the future Edward VII noticed it and fell in love with it.

Grey Prince of Wales Check with wool tie and light blue shirt

The closely associated Prince of Wales check actually fits more with our definition of checks as it is essentially a glen check with the addition of an overcheck or overplaid in a different color. This is a grid of a contrasting color, a windowpane pattern, superimposed on top of the glen check to give it even more depth. Overplaid is a popular manifestation of checks in tailored menswear, and it’s a great example of how rich and complex checks can be.

How Do You Wear Checks?

In the world of tailored clothing, checks can be worn in many ways, but the choice depends on your personality and how much you like loud, bold patterns in your wardrobe.

Shirts

Checked shirts are usually a safe choice. If you want something restrained that’ll easily pair with a tie, a standard single-color graph check is a good option. Even safer is a mini- or micro-check, in essence, a gingham but on a very small scale that reads as a solid from a distance. Moving toward smart casual or business casual, try a tattersall with a tie. For totally casual, tieless looks, choose ginghams and Madras in warm weather and flannel tartans for winter.

On the other hand, if you want to forget about playing it safe, go for a checked shirt with a checked jacket over it to repeat the pattern. Consider how prominent the pattern of your shirt is when choosing a tie. Solid color ties are a safe choice, but you could also try a tie that has a similar repeating pattern on a different scale (larger or smaller circles or squares, for example).

Gingham shirt worn with a windowpane suit containing lines of different colors.

Jackets

Checks on a jacket are always a bold statement though the features of the pattern determine exactly how much. How intense a check appears, especially a windowpane, depends on the strength of the lines. For example, if the grid of a windowpane jacket features solid or bright lines, it will come across more aggressively than one made up of muted lines or soft colors, so keep that in mind when choosing a jacket, and try it on to see how you like the effect. For instance, a muted beige windowpane on a navy jacket remains conservative but a gingham summer sports coat or one with a madras pattern would be quite loud.  If there are bright colors or many colors, the jacket obviously becomes bolder, and the same is true if the number of boxes is increased. A navy glen check on a grey jacket is easy to wear, but adding a pink overplaid changes things.

Whatever you choose, one thing you will notice with a checked jacket is how it creates the impression of a wider chest. Tailored menswear has always sought to broaden the shoulders and chest through tricks of lapel width and style and shoulder padding among other things; horizontal lines across the chest created by checks draws the gaze outward to the same effect.

A comparison of shows the effect of a checked pattern has on the impression of chest width.

As a general practice, pair your patterned jacket with solid trousers to avoid clashing patterns. Regarding your choice of tie, you can follow two options of layering and either wear a solid tie or go pattern-on-pattern, which requires more skill.

Even with a patterned jacket, it’s possible to wear a patterned tie.

Suits

Because they are strong patterns, any check can become bold if it is used on a two-piece let alone a three-piece suit, with the exception of something like a brown tweed glen check. A windowpane suit, even if the lines are muted, always remains assertive simply because the boxes are large and multiplied over your entire body. Therefore, their acceptability depends on the dress code of your office and how much you want to be noticed. Plaid suits are particularly risky as the loud pattern can easily make you look clownish. Italian style tends to be bolder in making use of plaid suits, especially ones with regularly spaced patterns, but they are still difficult to carry off.

Plaid suits can be difficult to pull off.

Overcoats

It is said that things you can’t get away with in a jacket, like large peak lapels and aggressive textures, are acceptable with an overcoat. The same goes for checks. Though always a statement, a well-made checked overcoat worn with an otherwise reserved outfit is likely to garner more style compliments as a distinctive feature than other garments that would be considered loud.

A checked overcoat makes for a statement piece.

Pants

Checked, typically plaid, trousers appear loud even if your upper body is clad in a solid jacket. Thus, these would best be characterized as a type of “go-to-hell pants” and worn in the same way, as a statement.

Gianluca Cerutti wearing plaid wool flannel trousers

Waistcoats

A great option for wearing checks in tailoring is a waistcoat. The waistcoat has traditionally been a means of introducing bold color or pattern, adding personality and a sense of fun under a staid solid suit. Whereas bold pants are an in-your-face defiance of convention, bold waistcoats are almost expected, and you can match a color in the pattern with that of your jacket.

The author wearing a waistcoat with a brown plaid pattern to match a brown flannel suit.

Accessories

As is usually the case with any bold colors or patterns, accessories are a good place to start with checks because they represent a relatively small dose of the pattern and can integrate that bit of interest you want against an otherwise reserved outfit without becoming visually overwhelming. The most commonly represented checks on neckties are windowpanes, shepherd checks, and glen checks/Prince of Wales patterns. Tartans like black are great for casual or wooly winter ties. Notice that when windowpane check appears on a tie, the pattern is displayed on a bias or diagonally to follow the angle of the tip.

Prince of Wales Ties By Fort Belvedere

In drab winter weather, plaid scarves are a terrific option as well, lending interest and excitement when colors are more muted.

Plaid scarves can add color and pattern without being overwhelming.

Conclusion

Hopefully, this article has cleared up the distinctions among the various forms of checked fabrics available in menswear. With this information and a bit of practice, you should be able to name a check on sight and even identify hybrid combinations that blend the features of more than one kind of check, like overplaids.

For the most part, checks are patterns that tend toward the casual to varying degrees and that evoke a country heritage–either with American cowboys in the most relaxed sense or with the recreational pursuits of the British country gent.  This wide range of possibilities speaks as well to the versatility of checks in your wardrobe, as they are amenable to being dressed up or down. No matter how you wear it, one thing’s for sure–it’s hip to be square.

How do you like to wear checked patterns? Tell us in the Comments section.

We all have to deal with finite resources in one way or another, but here at the Gentleman’s Gazette, we believe you shouldn’t have to compromise your style (too much) just because you’re on a budget. In our guides, we always try to provide lists of quality manufacturers for various price groups but nevertheless these things are sometimes unaffordable, especially if you are still in school, if you are at the beginning of your career or if your job simply doesn’t pay that much. While good quality always has its price, the Gentleman’s Gazette has always tried to cater to the man interested in classic style, no matter what is in your wallet.

Tips for Dressing Well on a Budget

So how do you dress the way you want to dress, when you don’t have a lot of money? There are actually a number of advantages to building a wardrobe on a limited budget. It helps you prioritize what you really use and need, and if you take it seriously, you’ll develop some unique skills that will serve you well for years to come. For some men, you may even be happier with one great navy blazer versus the flush person who is never forced to consider what really works best for them.

Peacoat with a double-sided scarf, Jodhpur boots, and Chinos – Business Casual

In the following, we will share 15 tips that I personally used when I was money-poor but time-rich. By this, I mean that you can use your time to offset the lack of funds by, for example, scouring all your local vintage and secondhand stores for the perfect Navy-surplus peacoat. I still find that these tips are useful even when you have a bit more money because they help you create a good sartorial foundation based on finding the best value and identifying important things like proper fit and quality.

The Teenage Gentleman Ethan Wong has mastered the vintage look with a boater

Access & Affordability

For most men, the challenges of building the wardrobe they want come down to two things: access and affordability. You finances simply don’t leave room for $1500 Brooks Brothers overcoats or you live somewhere that doesn’t give you easy access to great clothes, vintage or otherwise.

Stroller Suit with Contrasting Vest – all vintage

Personally, I used to be a member of both camps.

I grew up in a small town in southern Germany with 3,000 people. At the age of 15, I began to read about classic men’s style. I would meet with people and craftsmen, online and in person, and made sure to visit stores whenever I did have access. I researched my travel routes before so that I could meet people along the way.

Sven Raphael Schneider’s jacket collection, which is mostly vintage and secondhand

Later on, I moved to Munich and then Hamburg, where I went to law school. All of a sudden, I was living in cities with tailors, expensive haberdashers, and plenty of options to choose from, if it wasn’t for the money. So I began by creating a list of items a complete wardrobe should have and started looking on eBay and most importantly, local vintage stores for items to add to my closet. If something didn’t turn out, or if I found a better quality item along the way, I sold the old things and bought new ones.

A few of Sven Raphael’s blue dress shirts

My shirt wardrobe was completely revamped twice in this way, including the blue and white striped Siniscalchi bespoke shirt above that I picked up from a retiring businessman.

As you can see, I know exactly what it is like to have a limited budget or to live in an area without any availability. All of the hints and tips I provide here are based on my personal experience, and they worked very well for me. Furthermore, many of the things I bought years ago on eBay or at a vintage store still play an active role in my wardrobe today, like these tan derbies below that I bought as new-old-stock in 2003.

Tan derby shoes with Mid Brown Socks with Green and Cream Clocks by fort belvedere with glen plaid trousers

Tips for Men with Limited Budgets 

It’s hard to be surrounded by all these wonderful goods, but you just can’t afford them – at least new. Be consoled. You still have a big advantage to the ones who can’t buy anything of quality even if they had the ability. Here are a few ideas to help get around the frustrating element of cost.

Budget Tip 1: Know Your Measurements

The fit is the most important thing when it comes to clothes. Since clothing sizing is highly variable and vintage clothes often have no tags to indicate size, measurements are the best way to understand if a certain garment will fit you.

Know Your Measurements

That means you need to know your body measurements, plain and simple, and I don’t mean your jeans size. You’d think that men’s sizes would be reliable, but I am sure you know from your own experience that they are not consistent, and therefore they won’t help you find better fitting clothing. Instead, you need to keep thorough and updated records of your measurements in both inches and centimeters. Have a friend or tailor assist you to get good measurements. Keep a spreadsheet, or better yet, memorize them.

Vintage dealers often measure garments flat

Now take a look around eBay or Etsy for a clothing item you like. How are the measurements laid out? Many sellers are clueless as to how to measure clothing in a useful way, so you’ll need to learn to interpret the information they offer. For example, the may measure the chest laying flat, or the outseam rather than the inseam. You may need to measure something you already own that fits well to help guide you.

Men’s measurement guide

The next step is to identify asymmetry. In the beginning, you may not notice the asymmetry of your body. But trust me, it’s there. On the other hand, it won’t take a trained tailor very long to point them out once he sees you. If you want to figure out what your body’s characteristics are, purposefully wear a garment off the rack because it is symmetrical. Then, have someone take pictures of your body standing in a natural position from the front, back and both sides. This will help you learn your body’s quirks and needs, and how clothing needs to adapt.

Oversized houndstooth tie

For example, my right shoulder hangs about 1.5″ lower than my left one.  This means my armhole has to be cut deeper, and I either need a shoulder pad on the right, or the cut of the shoulder has to be different. Moreover, the sleeve has to be set in differently. I have a slightly rounded back and one arm is half a centimeter (one-fifth of an inch) longer. My right leg is slightly bigger than my left one.

Back view with wrinkles due to sloping shoulder

Once you know your measurements, spotting well fitting (usually vintage or slightly used) clothing online will be much easier.

Summer suits in brown & pinstripes with spectators + odd jacket summer combination

Budget Tip 2: Know Your Needs

Every man who cares about dressing well should know exactly what is in his closet and what he needs to make it even better. Start by assessing your current wardrobe and identifying gaps for all seasons. Note pieces to replace, such as the navy blazer that never really fit you well.

Business Casual Outfit Single Breasted Blazer with popover shirt, cotton pocket square, khakis and brown tassel loafers by hogtownrake

Take a minute and write down all the places you usually go to and what clothes you should be wearing ideally. Then, prioritize the gaps/replacements in terms of versatility and how much money you have to budget for each item. Prioritize the most versatile pieces, such as a navy suit, or wardrobe extending pieces first, since they will give you the greatest benefit for the dollar.

A simple single breasted navy suit accessorized conservatively with a Prince of Wales check tie and a white linen pocket square

When you are on a budget, it’s hard to stick to a rigid purchase schedule or you may miss key opportunities as they arise. But, if you already have a clear idea of what you need, you can make better decisions at the moment. Do your best to only buy what is on your list, and you’ll be happier with the result in the long run.

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a vintage double-breasted check plaid overcoat with an Alpaca double-sided scarf and leather gloves

Mini-Tip: Once you have an idea of what is on your list, don’t restrict yourself to shopping seasonally. Some of the best finds I made were of items on my list that were out of season. For example, I bought this overcoat for 5 euros in Dresden in July when it was 90 degrees out.

Budget Tip 3: Avoid Bespoke and MTM Garments in the Beginning

It may sound obvious, but the first tip I can offer you is to avoid bespoke and MTM suits, even if you find a really inexpensive tailor. Once you’re into fashion, it’s only natural to want to add a nice suit, but it’s worth holding off for a while.

When I say bespoke, I mean true bespoke with fittings and a fair amount of handwork and canvas interlining. No matter where you make it in the world, you will hardly ever get a product for under $1,000 that is of the best quality (including cloth), and when you start and need an entire wardrobe, you will likely not be able to afford it.

Bespoke Coats in Interesting Fabrics

Sometimes, salesmen and marketing campaigns try to offer you “custom” suits for $200 – $500, but that is simply a made-to-measure suit. To fully understand the difference between Bespoke, Made-To-Measure, Ready-To-Wear and so on, please refer to this guide and video. Furthermore, you can do much better in terms of quality by looking for a secondhand or vintage suit.

Indochino MTM Jacket

To learn more about the new suit market and how limiting a low budget can be, you should understand the difference between a $100 vs. $1,000 Suit as well as a $500 vs. $5,000 Suit.

Budget Tip 4: Get to Know Your Alterations Tailor

Regardless of your body type, start looking for a skilled alterations tailor and learn what elements can and cannot be tailored successfully. Take a look at the work they offer and how they accommodate individual requests for difficult tasks, such as shortening a sleeve from the sleeve head. If they can do that properly, so the sleeves hang nicely without bumps on the sleeve head or wrinkles in the sleeves, chances are they can do everything else you need them to do.

Alterations are key

However, even if you find the best alterations tailor, they are not magicians. As such, you cannot buy jackets that are too long or too short because even though there might be some fabric reserve, the buttonholes and the position of the pockets can’t be changed. Also, if the shoulders don’t fit, it is going to be difficult to fix it, just like the front-back balance.

Bad fit can ruin your appearance; would you want to be seen wearing this ill-fitting Men’s Wearhouse rental tux?As a rule of thumb, do not buy anything that is more than one size to small or too large because alterations will be costly and the result is often not ideal. Also, when in doubt, buy something that is slightly too big rather than too tight, because removing fabric is easy but if there is not enough cloth reserve in the garment, you can’t wear the garment.

Budget Tip 5: Go Vintage

In the beginning, my wardrobe was 90% vintage, secondhand, or new-old-stock. I’m still proud of how well I managed to dress even though I rarely set foot in nice stores.

Vintage Tennis Sweater, Boater Hat & Blazers…

Vintage stores or flea markets in larger cities like London or Naples often provide quality clothing at a fraction of the retail price, but I’ve found vintage buys worth owning in just about every place I’ve traveled. Of course, it usually takes a bit of time to find something good, but if you do and the fit is ok, your alterations tailor can do the rest.

Sweaters at the Vintage Showroom – by Tweedland Gentleman’s Club

Vintage shopping requires patience, knowledge, and practice to do well. You need to know what you are looking for, what quality construction and materials feel like, and a solid understanding of brands and countries of origin. To be an effective vintage shopper, you should understand the following concepts:

• How to identify quality materials, like cashmere, cotton, and wool
• Brand names and what they are known for, such as Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers
• Countries of origin and what they are known for, such as Italian leather and tailoring
• Quality construction techniques, such as handmade buttonholes, hand-sewn sleeve lining, and hand-stitched collars

Surgeon Cuffs with handmade buttonholes

The more you know, the easier it will be to spot a quality product. For example, if you find a jacket with handmade buttonholes, chances are 99% you have a quality garment. In the beginning, it may be easier for you to identify a handmade buttonhole from the back side because it will look irregular whereas a machine-made buttonhole is consistent.

Quality fine handmade buttonhole

Ten years ago, it would have been enough to test if the jacket had working buttonholes, but today even a blazer from H&M for $50 has that feature, so it is not a quality hallmark anymore. That being said, there are also good garments with machine/made buttonholes. As a rule of thumb, if the hole is cut first, then neatly sewn, chances are it is a higher quality garment than if the stitch density is low and you can see some fraying.

Finely hand-sewn collar with a boutonniere loop

Once you identify a buttonhole, you can quickly double-check if the sleeve lining is sewn in by hand. If that’s the case, you likely have a quality garment and if you want to be sure, flap up the collar and look if it was attached with hand stitching. You can do all of this without having to take a jacket off the hanger. This allows you to quickly analyze an entire store for good garments.

Budget Tip 6: Invest in Flexible, Wardrobe Extending Pieces & Accessories

A bold pair of patterned pants may be a fun addition to your wardrobe, but their distinctiveness will not allow you to make many new outfits in the way a burgundy vest will.

Vests help to change the look of your existing wardrobe

Contrasting vests are less expensive than a jacket or a suit, and they really help you to create many new outfits with your existing wardrobe. Take a look at our odd vest guide for more details.

Assorted Pointed End Bowties – Handmade by Fort Belvedere

Accessories will also help you more combinations out of your wardrobe than a new jacket or pants will.

Budget Tip 7: Take Care of Your Wardrobe

Proper care of the garments you already own will extend their life and it will be less expensive in the long run. However, caring for your clothes isn’t always straightforward.

Brushing Clothes and Polishing Shoes

For suits, jackets, trousers, and overcoats that means you should brush them regularly with a clothes brush. Dry clean your clothes only when absolutely necessary because the harsh chemicals and technique used will drastically shorten the lifespan of your clothes.

Preston Schlueter in the process of folding a suit jacket before washing

You can wash many suit jackets at home! Wash your sweaters carefully. If your garment is wrinkled, steam them either in a bathroom or with a steamer.

Butler Luxury Hangers

Hang your overcoats and jackets on wide hangers and if you can’t afford Butler Luxury quality, go with plastic suit hangers. Shops often give them away for free.

Budget Tip 8: Beware that People Who Buy Cheap Buy Twice

Cheap Suit without lapel roll

In Tip #2, we suggest that you know your needs and stick to buying from your list. However, if you want to end up with something worth owning, beware of buying cheap. Quality has it’s price, so don’t let a cheap find turn you into a sucker. Even a piece that is marked down by 90% may be a total waste of money if it is not going to last beyond a couple years. Yes, it is nice to score a deal, but a smart budget shopper will also consider how quickly they will have to replace an important piece if they buy something cheap.

Budget Tip 9: Don’t Be Tempted by Sales and Discounts

Buying something on sale might seem like an obvious solution to shopping on a budget, but the trouble is, very rarely are the things on sale that you really need.

50% Suit sale

If a deal is too good to be true, it probably is too good to be true. There is probably a reason why nobody has bought an item before you at a retail store if it is marked down heavily – it may be a second, there could be a loose threads, tears or stains. Only take items you know you can repair with certainty – buttons are easy to sew back on, but a stain is not worth the risk. Of course, deals come along, and the more you know, the more likely you will be to spot it. A friend of mine once bought a mislabeled bespoke jacket advertised as cashmere for 300 €; it was actually Vicuna, which he then sold for 3000 €. However, these deals are very rare.

Instead, think about the cost per wear you will get out of the garment. And the $50 seersucker jacket can turn out to be more expensive than the $400 blazer in the long run. This also applies to cheap finds that need a lot of alterations – dry cleaning and extensive tailoring can easily multiply the real cost of ownership quickly. It may be worth buying something a full price if you’ll get

Budget Tip 10: Don’t Compromise on Fit 

Most people today don’t know what a good fit means. Obviously, it depends on your standards, but personally I have never seen anything off the rack that fit perfectly, yet I have met many people who claim they have. It is all in the eye of the beholder.

Men’s Wearhouse – Would you want to be seen wearing this ill-fitting rental tux?

Generally, wrinkles in a suit when you stand are a sign of a bad fit. Vertical creases or wrinkles indicate that the garment is too wide in certain parts. Horizontal X-folds indicate that something is too tight.

x wrinkles signify a too tight jacket

When in doubt, get something slightly larger than you need it to be, because most commercially produced garments do not have much of a cloth reserve built in to make tight garments looser. Handmade garments usually have more fabric in reserve. Check out our guides to pants fit and suit fit for more detail.

Budget Tip 11: Don’t Trust a Salesperson or a Seller

A few years ago, an employee at a haberdasher tried to tell me a Dobbs hat he was selling was the best in the world. That statement was both very bold and very wrong. Now, I know much more about hat felts than the average person, but this situation illustrates a good point.

Most salespeople want to sell you as much stuff as possible, and that’s it. It’s rare to meet a salesperson who is both educated and willing to teach customers about clothing, what will work for you and what won’t. Unfortunately, the days when men could make a career out of haberdashery are long gone, and most salespeople at retail stores are paid little more than minimum wage to stock shelves.

Salespeople have a conflict of interest and are no longer trained well enough to truly help sartorially-inclined men make good decisions. Go into stores with the intent of being your own best resource.

Budget Tip 12: Do Your Research Before Buying

100 men’s fashion books

If you want to spend carefully, it pays to educate yourself and go shopping prepared with your own resources. We hope we can be of service here at the Gentleman’s Gazette; it has been our goal from our very first day to help men dress better and elevate their style by educating them. Our archive is chock full of guides to everything we’ve mentioned in this article. Here are 43 other online resources to consider. Check out my top 10 favorite fashion books and 100 Men’s Fashion Books for additional style resources.

Budget Tip 13: Avoid Outlets

Originally, outlets were obscure shopping destinations that sold clothes stores couldn’t sell in their regular stores. They were filled with slightly flawed, unusual, or single-item garments that didn’t appeal to a mainstream audience, and they used discounts to move them off the shelves. Within the last 10 years, outlets have become more popular, and retailers understand that many people shop based on discounts.

Avoid Outlet Malls

As such, many brands have decided to play along and produce new items just for outlets. Of course, these are of lower quality with higher price tags so they can lure customers into a sale with 70% off signs. If you find something that is exactly what you want, that’s fine. Otherwise, stay away because you will end up with stuff that you will quickly have to replace, and that doesn’t just harm the environment but also your wallet.

Budget Tip 14: Stay in Touch

Once you have found a store with good quality merchandise, ensure that you are added to their customer database and sign up for their newsletter, so you can stay in touch. If you develop a relationship with the owner, they will often volunteer to inform you if something you’re looking for comes in the store in your size.

Bobby from Boston was a legendary vintage store

Follow your favorite eBay stores and vintage shops on Instagram, where many will post new finds. This technique works best with small local stores, and it will give you an edge if you are a preferred, engaged customer. The store owner may even help you look for something

Budget Tip 15: Stick to Your Budget

Create a clothing budget by saving a set amount every month. Even if it is just $20 a month, that might easily result in a new tie or jacket from a vintage store. Save up and then buy a quality item when you can afford it.

Budgeting will allow you to build a wardrobe without breaking the bank

You can increase your budget if you sell something. I always used this in-and-out mentality because clothes I didn’t wear were tying up money in my closet. So, it is best to start with the things you have and don’t wear. Either sell it on eBay or at a local vintage store (stores are usually easier). Personally, I always went vintage with my clothes and then bought exactly the accessories I wanted to complete my look because I could afford a pair of nice socks for $30 or a pocket square and tie for the full price, whereas a new garment would have been way too expensive.

Conclusion

Even, if can’t afford things you’d love to own at the moment or if you just don’t have access to nice clothes very easily, there is always a way to dress stylishly on a budget. I think the tips I provided here should provide you with all the fundamentals you need so you can build your very own wardrobe on a budget.

Do you have additional tips you’d like to add to our list? Share them in the comments!

Have you ever wondered how to style your outerwear (including overcoats, gloves, and scarves) to maximize your style while staying warm? There are correct and incorrect ways to best pair your outerwear with your gloves and scarves, and mastering these will make it much easier for you to look stylish each day.

Classic Winter Accessories

Petrol Blue Men’s Gloves with Folded Reversible Scarf in Navy Blue & Red Silk Wool Polka Dots & Paisley

Scarves

When it comes to scarves, there are many different lengths that you might find when shopping. Having a scarf that’s just around 70 inches long is usually the ideal length. Unless you need the excess length for your height if you’re a very tall gentleman, stay away from scarves that fall too far below your waist. Remember to consider the drape and thickness of the scarf before trying to tie anything too ornate. For a more sophisticated look, opt for a more moderate length of scarf, as opposed to something that’s too thick or too fuzzy. Often, the longer and thicker a scarf is, the more casual you’ll appear.

At Fort Belvedere, we extensively tested various scarf sizes to find the one just right for you. The most common size is 150 centimeters by 30 centimeters (60 inches by 12 inches), and we found that this was simply too short for most men, which resulted in insufficient protection. There are also larger versions measuring 180 centimeters by 35 centimeters (about 71 inches by 14 inches), and while we liked the length, we found that the width started to feel constricting. We settled on an ideal format of 180 centimeters by 30 centimeters (71 x 12 inches). We found that this offers optimal warmth and comfort. Be sure to check out the unique scarf options offered at Fort Belvedere here. 

Dark Green Men’s Gloves with Button in Lamb Nappa Leather by Fort Belvedere

Gloves

The importance of a proper fitting glove is crucial; if a glove is too tight, it’ll fit too snug and feel very uncomfortable, but if it’s too large, it’ll look sloppy and bring down the entire outfit. You’ll want to measure your dominant hand to make sure that you’re getting the right glove size. If you’re opting to wear leather gloves, you may be tempted to search for a size that’s a little bit bigger than what you actually need. This usually happens because things feel much more comfortable when they’re a little bit loose. However, it’s important to remember that leather does stretch, and it’s okay to have something that fits close to the hand but not so tight that you couldn’t even make a fist.

How To Determine Your Glove Size

Choosing The Right Colors

To make sure you’re staying stylish along with keeping warm during the winter season, it’s important to know what kind of color options you should consider for your gloves and scarves. If you’re just starting out, make sure that you have the core foundational colors in your overcoat wardrobe; brown, navy, and charcoal gray will offer you the most versatility for your outfits, as you can dress them up or dress down throughout the season. With all the colors that are available to us when it comes to clothing, it’s tough to know where the limits can be sometimes.

This outfit already features too many colorful accents–adding gloves and a scarf would be disastrous!

There are some people who don’t really mind how they’re perceived at the impression that they might give off when they get dressed and leave the house every day. These are the kind of people that could wear every color in the crayon box and think it’s completely normal. Although we like to see gentlemen have fun and experiment with multiple colors, it is important to consider the environment of where you’re trying to wear them.

Kyle looking confidently dapper in his winter outer wear

Matching Your Outfit with The Occasion

Is this a more formal outing you’re attending, or a more casual and colorful party? If it’s along the lines of the latter, then it would be much more acceptable to wear multiple colors, stop traffic, and have some fun. For example, if you are attending a business meeting and you’re wearing a navy single-breasted overcoat, infusing a few pops of color with this kind of ensemble could be acceptable. Wearing something like our reversible scarf in burgundy or the alpaca scarf, double-sided in charcoal and gray would be a fantastic option with a navy coat.

Burgundy Reversible Scarf with Micropattern by Fort Belvedere

If you happen to go out to dinner, and you choose to wear a burgundy overcoat over navy trousers, you can wear the reversible scarf in navy blue and red silk wool with polka dots and paisley (pictured further above in this article). With both of these examples, you can see that the wearer is able to incorporate the base color of the overcoat while still allowing the scarf to stand out on its own and be a great conversation starter.

Injecting Some Patterns

The key to making sure that all of the patterns you are trying to wear will work together is to make sure that the patterns are of different size density. I happen to remember a time when I was wearing a striped shirt and a striped tie, and both of the stripes happened to be of the same scale. When I completed tying my tie and I looked in the mirror, I felt like I was wearing wallpaper. There was no line of demarcation, and if not for the tie being a different color, an onlooker would not even have known that I was wearing a tie.

This also reflects what could happen if you’re wearing an overcoat with a plaid pattern and a scarf of the same color and pattern size. In doing so, there will be a loss of dimension and depth to your overall outfit. To fix this, try wearing a scarf of a different color altogether. If you’re going to opt for a pattern, make sure that the pattern is a bigger or smaller size than what is on the coat.

Kyle’s well put together outerwear

Gloves, in particular, are a fun and effortless way to elevate your overall look. One way to pair your gloves and scarves is to keep your colors consistent. If your gloves and scarves are in the same color tone, everything else will look harmonious. The goal is to not make your outfit feel like a uniform, but to make sure everything else looks unified. To keep things simple, you can try using colors like blue, black, or brown. Using neutral colors such as these will make infusing other colors or patterns much simpler.

Depending on the color or pattern within your coat, you might want to incorporate other colors in your gloves and scarves. When wearing a charcoal overcoat, you actually have a few different options on what you can wear. For example, a camel-colored overcoat looks great with a lot of different earth tones. Try wearing it with the orange bronze rust suede leather gloves and then add the reversible scarf in dark green and red silk motif.

A patterned overcoat with a solid colored scarf from Fort Belvedere

A plaid overcoat might appear tricky to try to pair scarves and glove options with. If you’re uncomfortable with pattern mixing at this point, try picking a scarf with a nice, bold color that will complement the overcoat you’re wearing. Try the alpaca double-sided scarf in light blue and gray, then add the gray peccary gloves. Remember, depending on the occasion, you can have a little bit more fun with some whimsical colors and try mixing patterns. 

Having the right accessories can really upgrade an entire outfit no matter the season

Conclusion

Depending on the occasion, a scarf that falls no longer than your waist is ideal. A scarf that’s about 70 inches and a moderate thickness is usually going to be the best bet for you when you try to wear a scarf for various occasions. Your gloves should not feel like a boa constrictor on your hand, nor should they feel too loose; you want them snug but not so tight that you can’t make a fist. You can always add a lot of personality to your outfit by adding colors in your scarves or your glove choices. Just be sure to have them blend appropriately with the overcoat choice that you have. Solid and neutral choices will always be safe, and mixing colors and different patterns together will work, as long as you make sure that you have different size density.

How do you like to pair your gloves and scarves with your overcoats? Share with us in the comments!

Within the framework of a standard men’s dress shirt, many variations can exist; there are differences in fit, cuff style, buttons, and so on. But what of the collar? Read on to discover the many variations.

If you’re in North America, the first dress shirts you bought probably had some kind of point collar; in Britain and mainland Europe, you likely bought spread collars. In either case, you may not have thought much about the collar style–it was just a shirt. However, when you begin to explore the nuances of classic menswear, you’ll uncover an incredible range of different collar possibilities, and you’ll likely be interested in trying them. Here’s a primer to get you down the rabbit hole.

Shirt Collar Parameters – The Factors Behind the Styles

Before we begin to look at the wide variety of collar styles available, it’s useful to consider the various parameters that influence how a collar looks. These are level of stiffness, height, size, and spread.

1. Collar Stiffness

From the 1820s to the 1930s, stiff collars (made so by the liberal application of starch) were the norm. These collars were detachable for replacement in an era where effective detergents and laundering were not available. Nowadays, a reminder of the stiff detachable collar exists in contrast-collar shirts (also called Winchester shirts), but collar stiffness is determined by the thickness of the fused (glued) interlining used to form the collar.

Influenced by Italian style and the Duke of Windsor, soft collars are more popular these days, particularly with soft tailoring. So, if you prefer sport coats that have natural unpadded shoulders, a soft shirt collar can also be chosen to continue the Neapolitan style. Soft collars are more casual as well, so they are perfect for warm weather and relaxed looks anytime. On the other hand, if you are wearing a formal business suit, a firmer collar is the better option for a crisp and sharp appearance. Something in between the two–a medium hardness–may be the most versatile choice. When going made-to-measure or bespoke with shirts, you can usually select your collar stiffness.

2. Collar Height

Collar height is the measure of how high a collar sits on your neck, measured from the fold down to the point. Taller collars are more formal as well as more aggressive; they communicate that you’re a boss. When choosing a shirt for the workplace, be aware of the impression that collar height makes. A high collar is more typical of Italian style and can even require two collar buttons to support the added height. Taller collars can also require some getting used to in terms of the way they feel on your neck. If you’re interested in trying a shirt with a tall collar, consider some offerings from brands like Proper Cloth and Eton.

3. Collar Size

Related to height is overall size. Some collars, like the cutaway, which we will discuss below, are small and minimalist. Other collars are quite large. Collars at either extreme are more rakish and non-conformist. So, again, something of moderate size is ideal for business. For pleasure, the choice may be purely determined by your face shape. If you have a large head or round face, a bigger collar is more suitable to balance out your appearance. Wearing a tiny collar in such cases will only make your face look disproportionately larger.  Keep in mind that collar style should conform to face shape, and in terms of size, you want to choose one similar to the size of your head and face.

4. Collar Spread

Lastly, there is collar spread–basically, the distance between the points of the collar. The wider the spread, the more aggressive. Face shape again comes into play. If you have a thin or narrow face, a spread collar can help counterbalance that; wearing a narrow collar, in this case, will only enhance the impression of narrowness and make your head look longer. On the other hand, if you have a wide or round face, wearing a collar with the points closer together will slim down your face. So, unlike collar size, in terms of spread, you want to choose essentially the opposite of your face width. A convenient means of categorizing shirt collars is by the distance between the points from narrow to wide.

Types of Shirt Collars

1.  The Point Collar

In North America, the standard or default business collar is likely the point. As evident from the name, this style is characterized by the fact that the collar tips are pointed. The spread between the points is small (in the range of  1.5″ at the very narrow range to 3.5″). As such, your collar will not expose any of the tie on either side beyond the knot if you wear a four-in-hand. When wearing a jacket, the points of the collar will not be covered by the lapels. This collar flatters if you have a wide face. A point collar seems to work best in medium stiffness. A stiff point collar will make the collar stand away from the shirt when you are wearing a tie, so there is a gap between the collar and the shirt.

1a. The Spear Collar

A retro version of the point collar is the spear, which, like its namesake, has really long points. These have made something of a comeback of late because their length is considered a rakish change of pace while still being usable in the same circumstances as the standard point. You can find versions of this collar in shops with vintage style; the point-collar shirts sold by Edward Sexton are also quite narrow and thus lean toward being spears.

2. The Tab Collar

Speaking of vintage, within the same spread range as the point collar but with a distinctly classic look is the tab collar, which features an underlying tab beneath each collar leaf that fastens on the top button. This pulls the collar tips closer together while also lifting the knot of your tie for an even more distinguished appearance. Because of the tabs, this collar can only really be worn with a necktie, not open at the neck.

3. The Club Collar

Another collar with a narrow spread and a vintage appearance is the club worn by Sven Raphael Schneider toward the top of the article. This collar originated at Eton College, which had previously been the incubator of Beau Brummell’s stylistic innovations. The young gents who attended there were looking for a way to distinguish themselves from other schools and hit upon rounding off the collar points, which is the defining feature of the club collar.  It is possible to wear a club collar that is also a tab collar, as the former is defined by the shape of the collar leaves and the latter by the presence of a hidden tab.

4. The Pin Collar

The various collars with a smaller distance between the leaves or points lend themselves readily to the use of collar pins, clips, or bars. These are accessories designed to close the space between collar points while also elevating your tie knot. If your shirt is designed with special holes in the collar leaves, you can use a collar pin, which looks like a large safety pin, or a collar bar, which resembles a barbell with an end that unscrews. Such special pin collars are sold by Eton and Edward Sexton among others. Like the tab collar, because the pin or bar draws the collar leaves closer together the spread of such a collar will never be wide.

You can also create the look of a true pin collar with a collar clip, which can be used with point or club collars without punching holes in them. Like cuff links, collar pins are a bit of “man jewelry” to elevate your personal style. Since they were popular mainly in the first half of the 20th century, they do create a vintage look and will get attention. Fort Belvedere offers a variety of these accessories in silver and gold for you to try.

5. The Square Collar

There are also shirt collars that are quite small with a minimal spread, among them the square collar, so called because the collar points are squared off. These were worn, usually in detachable form, in the early twentieth century, but are quite hard to find today.

6. The Button Down Collar

Although it originated on England’s polo fields, the button down collar has become an American favorite after it was introduced by Brooks Brothers, especially as part of Ivy, prep, and trad styles. The button-down collar is a variant on the point-collar dress shirt and is stylistically appealing for those who want to dress down but. But, in today’s casual world, a button-down with a tie and a sport coat is still quite well dressed. Fans of sprezzatura will leave the buttons open, or even just one button, to project a sort of nonchalance. For others, doing this can seem sloppy or c0ntrived, however, so it’s a matter of personal style.

Some button down collars are soft and others are not. Those who like collar roll, where a longer collar curves to create some space around the tie knot, love a soft button down for achieving this effect. You can see this in the image directly above. I like collar roll, but the buttons on the button down are too casual for me, so an option is the hidden button down, which contains snaps or a loop and button beneath the collar points, allowing the roll and the collar to sit in the same way but with the buttons hidden.

7. The Spread Collar

Once the distance between the collar point widens we have a spread collar, noted as the default collar of London (and European) business wear. The spread collar was originally popularized as a means of wearing wider tie knots like the Windsor and Half-Windsor, but some spread collars will still allow you to wear a four-in-hand without exposing the string of your tie next to the knot. A spread collar will also accommodate thicker ties, such as those made of wool, cashmere or other heavier fabrics. The line between the spread and cutaway collar is not well defined as some brands (Eton, for one) call their spreads cutaways, and there can exist a range of distances between the collar points. Usually a 4″ distance could be considered “semi-spread” with most spread collars showing 5-6″ between the collar points. We can also look at it in terms of angles, with the angle formed by the spread collar being 45 degrees or greater. Generally speaking, a wider spread collar is more suitable for men with a narrow face shape, as it draws the viewer’s eyes outward, creating the impression of a wider face.

8. The Cutaway Collar

The cutaway collar is a type of spread collar that is defined by the wide distance between points (over 6″) or the obtuse angle formed by said points. In some cases, the angle of the collar can be a completely horizontal 180 degrees (or zero, depending how you look at it); that is, the front of the collar forms a nearly straight horizontal line.

For cutaway collars, a large tie knot is essential to avoid showing the string of the tie along with the knot, though some men will tie a regular four-in-hand and rev as a nod to rakish indifference. In collars that are labeled “extreme cutaway,” the collar points actually angle backwards, behind the neckband. This collar can be favored in Italian, especially Neapolitan, tailoring and is quite an aggressive look.  If you wear these at all, they are best worn tieless with the top button or two open. If worn with a necktie, the string of your tie will definitely show next to your knot.

9. The Band Collar

The concept of the cutaway collar taken to its farthest extreme would lead the collar leaves to disappear completely, leaving just the band. This sort of collar, standing 1-2″ high can be referred to as a Mandarin for its origins in Chinese clothing and a granddad shirt (when worn as part of a casual, rustic American style). This shirt must be worn tieless.

10. The Wing Collar

Reserved only for the most formal events is the wing collar, also known as the winged or wingtip, belongs among the minimalist collars because its points are quite small. The tips stand up and are directed horizontally so they resemble the open wings of a bird. This collar is most often worn with a bow tie and is actually supposed to be reserved for white tie events, though some men today enjoy its vintage look with a tuxedo. You may also see the wing collar worn by valets or butlers with a black neck tie in period pieces such as Jeeves and Wooster.

Other Specialty Collars

1. The One-Piece Collar

Known as the Hollywood or Cooper collar because it was famously worn by Gary Cooper, the one-piece collar is rare in ready-to-wear shirts. Usually, a shirt collar is constructed separately from the rest of the shirt. A one-piece collar, however, is made from the same piece as the shirt placket, which reinforces it and enables it to stand upright; it also requires tailoring skill to construct. Because of its structure the one-piece collar is tall and has an incredible collar roll, so fans of that look should seek it out. A possible shortcoming of the one-piece is that the points tend to float up or escape from under the lapels of a sport coat if the shirt is worn with the top button open. With a tie, there are no such issues.

2. The Pajama Collar

The collar commonly seen on pajama tops–flat and divided into two parts, resembling a notch lapel on a jacket–is known variously as a pajama collar, Cuban collar, or bowling collar. The look is definitely casual, for warm weather and most commonly seen with short sleeves including on Hawaiian “Aloha” shirts. However, they are mentioned here because they’ve recently made an appearance on long-sleeved shirts worn with tailoring. In some versions, the top part of the collar is longer than the bottom, but it can also be the other way around. The common aspect is that the collar is large, divided, and lays flat.

Conclusion

Various menswear brands have special proprietary names for their collar styles, like the Varsity (Paul Fredrick), the Roma spread (Proper Cloth) or the Martus (the now defunct Welch & Margetson). Whatever the names, these are essentially variants of one of the collar types discussed above, and once that you know the different permutations you can identify the features in any collar.

Christopher Lee in an ensemble featuring a cream sport coat, striped tie, and shirt with a cutaway collar.

You may start with a more conservative style for work but then you’ll experiment until you find the ideal collar for your face shape and individual taste. I started with the typical American point collar then went with a radical cutaway with an eye toward Italian style. Eventually, I realized this didn’t work well with a tie or my rounder face shape. Now, I’m wearing moderate spread collars with collar roll and long points. Whether I stick with this for the rest of my life is yet undetermined.

Where are you in the process of trying shirt collars? What’s your favorite? Share in the comments below.

In the world of suiting, staple colors like blue, gray, and brown have long reigned supreme. But now that more avant garde options are becoming increasingly popular, is there a way to wear them tastefully? We’ve got the answers!

We typically see a certain array of colors worn by most men whether it’s a professional or a casual setting. This would include shades of blue, gray, or brown, also black. Then there are some color options that are much more whimsical, especially in comparison to their more classic counterparts. Despite that these colors might be considered unconventional, at the right time or place they can be accepted.

What Are Unconventional Suit Colors?

The definition of unconventional is not based on or conforming to what is generally done or believed. Over history, we have seen men time and time again tend to gravitate towards neutral and dark tones for suits but there is an array of color options that some might also like to wear. For example, some might be yellow, green, purple, bright red, even orange. Some trendy brands would like to use some of these loud colors when developing a whimsical pattern or a unique fabric.

Classic & Modern Color Options

The aforementioned blues, grays, and browns tend to stand well over the test of time. These colors work well with a variety of skin tones and for a variety of different occasions for men. For some more modern styles, consider the following examples: instead of a navy suit, perhaps a bright, bold blue. Instead of black, maybe something more punchy, like a red or an orange color. These styles probably will not be as wearable once they’re no longer “on trend,” but because they’re popular, they’re often quickly adopted by fashion enthusiasts. Although these are two different sides of the spectrum in terms of classic and modern style, there are some ways you can marry both of these styles together properly.

You can try wearing a dark-colored suit and then infuse that option with brighter colors in your accessories for a more modern approach. Also, you could try wearing a more brightly colored, modern suit, but tone it down a bit with some darker elements (maybe with your shoes or the tie option you choose).

Foundational Suit Colors

Charcoal Gray

Charcoal gray is a neutral color, and it works for a variety of different skin tones and occasions. The warmer tone of the charcoal color keeps it versatile year-round, as opposed to its cousin, the light gray colored suit. Both options actually provide a lot of versatility, but charcoal would give you more options than the light gray. Also, while a navy suit tends to make a young man look younger, charcoal will have the opposite effect.

Classic Navy

A classic navy suit is equally as versatile as the charcoal, but adds a little bit more color. Also, the suit color is able to be dressed up or dressed down quite easily. There are an endless number of combinations that make this an extremely versatile option which you should definitely have in your wardrobe.

Brown

The brown color allows you to break up the monotony of the blue and the gray options you have, but still remains classic and understated. Historically, brown suits (especially in medium to lighter brown shades) were considered inappropriate for city-wear, but this is no longer true in all but the most formal of environments; after all, if you’re wearing a suit at all, you’re going to be more formally dressed than 90% of men out there. Even in most business settings today, darker brown shades like charcoal or chocolate brown can generally be worn in the same settings as a charcoal suit or a navy suit.

Black

Black is a more serious color, typically reserved for celebratory occasions, funerals, or some business settings. While we find black (and in particular, black suits) quite overrated, it would not hurt to have at least one in your wardrobe for those specific occasions.

Wearing Unconventional Suit Colors

One of the first things you want to consider when you’re picking your colors is where are you going.

Dining Out with Friends

This would be a great time to have your suit color choice be more moderately colorful. For example, try a warm touch of color (like a reddish brown), or having a neutral base with some color woven into your overall suit (like a seersucker in summer).

Weddings

Another occasion would be a wedding, let’s say for a former classmate of yours. Some wedding parties can have a very strict dress code for their attendees. If this is not the rule for the wedding you are attending, consider wearing something traditional-yet-bolder for your outfit choice. Meaning, instead of wearing a traditional navy, you could try a more bright blue; or instead of charcoal, try wearing a light gray.

Job Interview

Depending on the type of job you are interviewing for, it might be helpful for you to try to incorporate some of the company colors into your outfit. Be careful not to go completely overboard with this concept, however. The key here is to make sure that the interviewer takes note that you’re showing broad awareness, but not that you’re trying too hard (or that you may be trying to get your job simply off of your color choices and not your merit). You want them to pay attention to what you are saying, not just on what your clothes are saying. You also want to pay attention to seasonality when you’re selecting your different colors, as well as the fabric weight.

Warmer Seasons

If you’re anything like me and you get warm quite easily in the warmer months, you probably are going to prefer a lighter weight fabric and something that breathes a little bit better. There are often a lot of great bold and bright color options available in these warmer months.

Cooler Seasons

When it gets cooler, it might be more advantageous for you to try to opt for a darker color of the suit, in contrast to the lack of colors you’re going to be seeing outside. In addition to black, gray, or navy, try adding in camel, burgundy, or olive–and for some fun, the classic black watch pattern is always a great option. But why exactly is it important to pay attention to seasonality when selecting your colors? Certain color options are going to look completely out of place at certain times of the year. Knowing when and where to properly wear something ensures that your unconventional suit color will still make sense.

Finding A Suit Color for Your Skin Tone

Medium Skin Tone

If you have a moderate amount of melanin in your skin, you have quite a few different options for suit fabrics which you can wear. This is because the faint undertones in your skin easily complement a variety of different colors. Try wearing different suit colors like cream, eggshell, different shades of brown, or even a bright red.

Dark Skin Tone

Although the higher amount of pigmentation in our skin offers a great amount of versatility for different unconventional suit colors, it’s important to note that not every color should be considered an option. Try colors like burgundy, camel, mustard, even olive green. 

Light Skin Tone

Individuals with a more fair skin tone or a lighter amount of melanin in their skin are going to be able to wear colors like bold shades of blue, various shades of gray, even pastels in the summer months.

Styling Tips for Unconventional Colors

Start With A Suit Or Sport Coat

The first thing that you’re going to want to do is find a suit or sport coat that incorporates even a minor amount of the color in question (in the pattern or the fabric itself). Then you could try to find a tie or a pocket square that incorporates that same color in a different scale, and use that to complement the remainder of your outfit.

If you choose to wear a bold, brightly colored suit, you can tone things down a little bit by trying to wear dark warm neutrals. You could try wearing a dark sweater or dark overcoat in the cooler months, and a darker tie or pocket square when it is a little bit warmer outside.

Try Breaking Up The Suit

If you have your mind set on a particular bold color you want to wear, but you’re not quite sure if it’s going to mesh too well with the situational factors outlined above, you can try breaking up the suit. Try wearing the jacket with a different pair of pants. If your jacket is more of a bold color, make sure your pants are more of a neutral color (or vice versa, as below).

Don’t Wear Too Many Unconventional Colors

One thing you want to make sure you stay away from is wearing too many unconventional colors together at one time. For example, wearing a very bold tie with a very busy patterned shirt along with your suit fabric, this could be seen as visually confusing and begins to look as though you may have gotten dressed in the dark. A better way to do this would be to choose one to two bold colors and letting everything else fall to the backdrop by wearing more neutral tones, perhaps wearing a more neutral colored shirt and tie to prevent competition with the unconventional suit color.

Where To Buy Unconventionally colored Suits

Many suit stores will offer basic color options but not all of these different stores are going to offer those out-of-the-box unconventional color options. Brands that offer a nice variety of colors and patterns would be SuitSupply, Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren, and Brooks Brothers. Many might be extremely surprised to see Brooks Brothers on this list, but their made-to-measure program offers a wide array of various color options for you to choose from.

Conclusion

It ultimately would be easier to wear neutral, more classically styled suits. On those occasions when you want to add a little bit more flavor to your outfit, it is ideal to know how to properly incorporate unconventional suit colors. When in doubt, consider mixing classic neutrals into your outfit, such as by taking an unconventional suit jacket and pairing it with a more neutral bottom. When considering mixing classic styling with more modern elements, it’s important to keep in mind the season, your skin tone, and your location.

Do you wear suits in unconventional colors? How do you style them? Share with us in the comments section.