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31 Luxury Watch Brands You’re Mispronouncing

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When people (mainly Americans) discuss luxury watch brands from countries like Italy, Switzerland, and Germany, they are often bluffing on the pronunciation–but the native accent of the country of origin matters if accuracy is your goal! Today, we’ll cover how to correctly pronounce popular names in the world of luxury watches.

Commonly Mispronounced Luxury Watch Brands

Let’s go through 31 luxury watch brands alphabetically, and discuss the accents that contribute to how they are said.

1. A. Lange & Söhne

The Lange 1

The GRAND LANGE 1 “25th Anniversary”

This is a German watch brand established in the 1800s and later became nationalized. After the fall of the Berlin Wall and the demise of the GDR, the great-grandson of the founder re-registered the trademark in 1990. In English, it means A. Lange and Sons. It is pronounced AH LANG-eh und ZUH-neh. Notice the ampersand is pronounced und, because it’s German, and that there’s an umlaut on the o. Sometimes, I hear it as A Lonzh and Zohn, but that’s incorrect. It’s not a French pronunciation; it’s a German pronunciation.

2. Audemars Piguet

The Audemars Piguet Guide

Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph

Audemars Piguet has been family-owned since 1875. They’re probably most well known for introducing the first luxury sports watch in 1972, the still-popular Royal Oak. It is pronounced OH-deh-mahr Pi-GEH. It’s a silent s and a silent t. It’s a French pronunciation, which is shorter than some Americans or English speakers might think. The r is very quick and not really pronounced. It comes from the back of your throat, French style, not from the top of your tongue like in the English language or with a rolled r like the Italian. 

3. Baume et Mercier

Paul Mercier and William Baume

Paul Mercier and William Baume, co-founders

This Swiss brand was founded by the Baume brothers in 1830, and they partnered with Paul Mercier in 1918. So, how is it pronounced? BOHM Eh Mehr-SYEY. It’s quick; it’s not Mersee-ey. Again, r from your throat and silent r at the end. No English pronunciation here!

4. Blancpain

Blancpain

Blancpain L-Evolution Super Trofeo

Interestingly, the French name of this Swiss brand translates to “white bread.” It originally started in 1735 and has undergone many name changes, but eventually ended back up at Blancpain, which is now owned by the Swatch Group. They produce fewer than 30 watches a day, and each watch is made by one watchmaker. It is pronounced Blohn-Pehn. It’s not Blon-pohn or Blank-pain.

5. Breguet

Vintage Breguet Pocket Watch

A fine and rare 18ct gold open face automatic pocket watch with power reserve made for Coco Chanel’s French lover, Paul Iribe

This brand, founded in 1775 in Paris, is now also owned by the Swatch Group. The well-regarded company of Breguet invented the first self-winding watch and the first wristwatch in the world.  It’s pronounced BREH-geh. It is quicker then an American might say it, like Bre-GAE or Bri-GEIT, but this is incorrect. So, the t is silent, the r comes from the throat. 

6. Breitling

Breitling for Bentley Supersport

Breitling for Bentley Supersport

This is a Swiss watch company, but it’s pronounced as though it were German. It is not Bright-ling, it is BREIT-ling. It’s the same throat r, it’s not a frontal r.

7. Carl F. Bucherer

vlcsnap-Carl F. Bucherer

Manero Peripheral – first watch to house Carl F. Bucherer’s second workshop-crafted movement

This watch brand was founded by its namesake in 1888 in Lucerne, Switzerland. It is still family-owned, and one of the oldest and most long-standing Swiss watchmaking companies that is still under the control of the family. English speakers may naturally pronounce it as Carl F. Buk-her-er, but the ch in German is pronounced with a throatier quality. So, CARL F. BUCH-ehr-ehr. Again, rolled in the r in the back of your throat.

8. Cartier

Gold Cartier watch, Fort Belvedere cufflinks and a Fort Belvedere collar clip

A gold Cartier watch, Fort Belvedere cufflinks and a Fort Belvedere collar clip pull together the metal elements of an outfit when worn together

Even though their first watch was named “Santos,” after Alberto Santos-Dumont, Cartier are probably most well-known for the Tank Watch and the variations of it. The design for the tank watch was inspired by the Renault tanks from the Western Front of World War I. In the US, many people pronounce it Car-di-yey; they change the t to a d and make it longer in the end, but it is actually Cahr-tyeh. The r again comes from the back of the throat, not the front, and the t is a little harder. Overall, it’s a little shorter than Car-di-yey; it’s Cahr-TYEH

9. Chopard

Chopard L.U.C. “Perpetual T”

Chopard L.U.C. “Perpetual T”

This company has been owned by the German Scheufele family since 1963. It is pronounced Sho-pahr. So, the d in the end is silent; it’s not Sho-pahrd, and the r again comes from the back. 

10. Frederique Constant

Frederique Constant Humidor and Watch

Frederique Constant and Cohiba – Limited Edition Watch + Humidor Set

Founded by a married couple in 1988, this brand considers itself to represent affordable luxury in watches. It is pronounced Freh-deh-RIQUE Cohn-STOHN. So again, silent t in the end and the r comes from your throat. Overall, like most French names, a bit shorter than most Americans would make them. 

11. Girard-Perregaux

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945

This Swiss luxury watch manufacturer started in 1791. It’s a prominent brand in the world of high-quality mechanical watches. It is pronounced Zhi-RAHR Peh-reh-GOH. Again, the x is silent, the Rs come from the back, and it’s a bit shorter.

12. Glashütte Original

Glashutte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator

Glashutte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator

Glashütte in German means as much as “glassworks,” and it’s actually a town in Germany that is the center of the German watchmaking industry today. Owned by the Swatch group, it’s one of the few brands that still uses their own movements. So, how is it pronounced? Glahs-HU-teh Oh-rih-gih-NAHL; u has an umlaut, so it’s Glahs-HU-teh, and they’re not “original,” but Oh-rih-gih-NAHL. It’s a German pronunciation. Again you have that r from the throat, but it’s a little longer than the French would say it.

13. Hublot

$3 million Hublot Big Bang Watch

$3 million Hublot Big Bang Watch

Established in 1980, this watchmaker is now owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy–the French luxury conglomerate. The brand name directly translates to “porthole” in English. It’s pronounced Oo-bloh. So, the h is silent, the typical French way, and it’s pronounced very quickly. The h, as well as the t, are silent.

14. IWC Schaffhausen

Actually, the first part of the brand is the abbreviation for International Watch Company, and Schaffhausen is a town in Switzerland where this company is from. People there speak Swiss German, and they call the brand EE-VEH-TSEH Shof-HOU-zen.

IWC Portugieser Chronograph

IWC Portugieser Chronograph

 

The company was actually co-founded in 1868 by an American so you could make the argument that it would be called I-W-C Schaffhausen. In Germany, i is more pronounced like ee, and w is more pronounced like the English v. The sch sound in German is always a shh, never a ssk. So, it’s always Shof-HOU-zen.

15. Jaeger-LeCoultre

This brand is arguably one of the most accomplished watchmakers in the world, with more than a thousand movements to their name. Probably, the watch they’re most famous for is the Reverso watch, and I have an original model. As a note of historical curiosity, however (and because of a quirk related to import duties of the time), it bears only the LeCoultre name.

LeCoultre Watch with Silver Fort Belvedere Monkey's Fist Cufflinks

Raphael’s vintage LeCoultre Reverso, paired with silver monkey’s fist knot cufflinks from Fort Belvedere

So, how is it pronounced? Most Americans would say Yay-ger Leh-cul-trah. However, the French pronunciation is Zhe-ZHURH(r) Lih-COULT(reh). So the first r is very silent, it comes from the throat (but it’s almost not there). The e in the end is silent as well. That being said, if you go to an American watch store and you ask for a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch using this pronunciation, they probably will look at you and ask, “You want a Yay-ger Leh-cul-trah watch?” Alternatively, you just say, “Get me a JLC,” people will usually understand that!

16. Longines

Longines Comet Automatic

Longines Comet Automatic

This Swiss watchmaker was founded in 1832. Counterfeiting was an issue for Longines as early as the 1880s, and so they came up with the winged hourglass logo, which they trademarked in 1880. Today, it is the oldest unchanged, still active trademark in the world. The name is pronounced Lohn-zheen. The important part is that it’s rather short and quick.

17. Louis Moinet

Louis Moinet

Louis Moinet – a legendary watchmaker

This brand was named after the French inventor of the chronograph. Today, their watches are anything but understated, and the brand is pronounced Loo-EE MWAH-neh, with a silent s and silent t.

18. Maurice Lacroix

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Le Chronographe Squelette

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Le Chronographe Squelette

This brand was founded in 1975 by Desco von Schulthess. It’s pronounced Moh-REISS Lah-KWAH. Silent x in the end, and r from the back–a little shorter and not as pronounced.

19. Montblanc

Montblanc Starwalker ballpoint pen

Montblanc Starwalker ballpoint pen

The brand name refers to the highest mountain in Europe (in France), and even though they’re originally famous for fountain pens, they’ve also started introducing luxury watches. Interestingly, despite its French-sounding name, it is actually a German brand that is now part of the Richemont Group. So, how is it pronounced? Not Mont-blank or Mont-blong. It is pronounced Mohn-blohn. It means “white mountain” translated to English.

20. Omega

Astronaut Wally Schirra wearing his Omega Speedmaster during training

Astronaut Wally Schirra wearing his Omega Speedmaster during training

The Omega brand is from Beil in Switzerland, and the German pronunciation would be Oh-MEH-gah. However, it’s more French, so it’s OH-meh-gah. The English might say Oh-MAY-guh, but that’s wrong. You can see that the e is slightly longer, and it’s a very French sound.

21. Panerai

Panerai Luminor 1950 Rattrapante

Panerai Luminor 1950 Rattrapante

This is brand is somewhat exotic, in the sense that it is an Italian brand. Here, the r comes from the front of your tongue and the end is elongated. So, it’s Pah-ne-RAI.

22. Patek Philippe

The 2015 Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5153R 001

The 2015 Patek Philippe Calatrava

This Swiss luxury watch brand was founded in 1839, and the most expensive watch ever sold at auction was a Patek Philipe, for $31 million in 2019. Today, the brand is considered to be one of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world, part of the “Big Three,” or the so-called “Holy Trinity,” with Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. It is pronounced Pah-TEK Fih-LEEP. Again, shorter overall in the syllables.

23. Piaget

Piaget Altiplano Automatic Small Seconds Date

Piaget Altiplano Automatic Small Seconds Date

This Swiss watchmaker was founded in 1874, and is well regarded for the thinness of their watch movements. So, how is it pronounced? PYAH-zhey(not Pee-ah-jet). The t is silent.

24. Richard Mille

Richard Mille RM-27-01 watch worn by Rafael Nadal

Richard Mille RM-27-01 watch worn by Rafael Nadal

This Swiss watch wasn’t established until 2001, but their watches are very bold and very expensive. It’s pronounced the French way, REE-shar MEEL. It’s not pronounced Ri-shar Miyeh, or Richard Mill. It’s very soft, gentle, and French.

25. Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42_

Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 Automatic

Founded in 1995 by its namesake and a partner, this watch brand is also bold and focuses on adrenaline, in their own words. It’s not Roh-jer Du-bois, but: Roh-ZHAY Du-BWEE. Again, r from the throat, and the s is silent in the back.

26. Rolex

Hans Wilsdorf - The man behind Rolex

Hans Wilsdorf – The man behind Rolex

Rolex is probably the most well-recognized luxury watch brand in the world. The brand was established in England by the German, Hans Wilsdorf. At that time, most watch brands would simply use the family name of the founder, but Hans Wilsdorf had the foresight of creating a brand that was easily pronounceable around the world.

Rolex Datejust

A pre-owned Rolex Datejust

It is pronounced correctly as Ro-lex–very English or American. One could also argue that because Wilsdorf was German, you could pronounce it in a German way (Hro-lex), but the more common pronunciation that you can also see on their own YouTube videos and ads is Ro-lex

27. TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Grande Date Black Dial Watch

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Grande Date Black Dial Watch

Partially founded in 1860, TAG stands for Techniques d’Avant Garde. Heuer, on the other hand, was a different company (which bore its founder’s last name), and those companies merged together in 1985. It’s pronounced in a very German way: TAHG HOY-eh(r). The eu in German is always an oy

28. Tudor

Tudor is known for using the ETA movements

Tudor is known for using the ETA movements

One could argue whether Tudor is a luxury watch brand or simply just a poor man’s Rolex, but it was also created by Hans Wilsdorf with the same idea: that it would be something that could be pronounced easily around the world. The German pronunciation would be TOO-dohr, but the English pronunciations are TOO-dur (in American English) and TYOO-dur (in British English).

29. Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin Sonata Streamline

Ulysse Nardin Sonata Streamline

Founded in 1846, this brand is well known for its nautical timepieces. It’s pronounced Ooh-LEESE Nahr-DAHN. Again the r from the back, and the n is silent. It’s not Yu-les-es or Yu-les, but Ooh-LEESE.

30. Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin are simple but detailed

Vacheron Constantin are simple but detailed

Next to Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin considered to be the third part of the “Holy Trinity” in the watchmaking world today. Founded in 1755, their Patrimony line of watches is probably their most famous. It’s pronounced Vah-sheh-ROHN Kohn-stahn-tahn.

31. Zenith

Zenith Elite Ultra Thin Watch

Zenith Elite Ultra Thin Watch

This is another Swiss watch brand, founded in 1865, and the German pronunciation would be Tse-NEET, but it’s pronounced the French way, which is Zeh-NEET. So, it’s a softer z like the Americans would say it, but the th is more like a soft t; not Ze-NEETH, but Zeh-NEET.

Conclusion

Correctly pronouncing luxury watch brands can help you confidently converse about them, and may also help you when purchasing. Just give these brands a little practice, and you’ll sound like a luxury watch connoisseur in no time! By the way: if you’re interested in whether luxury brands are worth their money–for example, a Rolex watch–you can check out the video below. You can also view our other extensive product reviews in our “Is It Worth It” series here.

Have you struggled with any of these pronunciations in the past? Let us know in the comments!


Steve McQueen: Gentleman of Style

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You may or may not be a fan of old movies, but if you’re a fan of fashion through the ages, then you are almost certainly an admirer of Steve McQueen’s effortlessly cool style. His appearances in a wide range of films in the ’60s and ’70s have made him an icon of that era for both his talent and his style.

Today, we take a closer look at the career, legacy, and style of one of Hollywood’s most enduring stars.

Steve McQueen’s Early Years

Despite his rugged good looks, cool guy reputation and Hollywood success later in life, Steve McQueen’s youth and early years were punctuated with struggle.  The actor known as Steve McQueen was not, in fact, a “Steve” by birth. Born Terence Steven McQueen in 1930 at the dawn of the Depression, he was abandoned by his mother to be raised until age 8 by his grandparents and an uncle on a farm in rural Missouri. His uncle was one of the few adults in his childhood of whom he had fond memories. He would go on to live with his mother and two successive stepfathers, both of whom were physically abusive.

Steve McQueen sunglasses were one of his defining accessories

Steve McQueen: sunglasses were one of his defining accessories

Dyslexia and partial deafness in one ear were also little-known disadvantages of his youth. In his teenage years, McQueen bounced back and forth between living on the streets, his mother’s home, and his uncle’s farm. His life was one of beatings, rebelliousness, and petty crime, and he was eventually sent to a boy’s home, the California Junior Boys Republic, where he stayed until the age of 16. The institution left a profound mark on McQueen, and he would go on to support the institution for the rest of his life. McQueen eventually landed in the Marine Corps, a 4-year experience which was not surprisingly riddled with resistance to authority. After numerous scrapes, demotions, and even a month-long stay in the brig, McQueen committed to the discipline of the Marines and was eventually honorably discharged with positive memories of his time with the service.

on set

Steve McQueen on set

Hollywood Film Career

By 1952, McQueen decided to use his GI Bill funds to study acting. He supplemented his earnings by racing motorcycles, and even in his early days of driving, he was often successful. In 1955 he moved to Hollywood, where he landed bit parts in film and TV.

Steve McQueen mugshot

Steve McQueen mugshot from a DWI arrest in Alaska

Throughout the 1950s, McQueen work steadily in television, culminating in the successful series Wanted: Dead or Alive, in which he played a bounty hunter. McQueen’s first big break into film came in the early 1960s when he was talent-spotted by none other than Frank Sinatra and given a small part in the film Never So Few. This quickly led to a part in The Magnificent Seven, which proved to be a hit, and the director would go on to cast him again in The Great Escape in 1963. His film career would span nearly every genre, style and character type for nearly 20 years.

In his personal life, McQueen’s rebellious, competitive nature proved to be a lifelong companion. He was famously antagonistic with directors and costars, and he considered Paul Newman as his professional rival. McQueen passed on Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid because he and Newman couldn’t agree on who would receive top billing. He also missed roles in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Ocean’s 11, and Dirty Harry among others, some due to scheduling conflicts and others due to McQueen’s personal whims.

Steve McQueen Motorcycle Enthusiast

Steve McQueen, Motorcycle Enthusiast

He was married three times (his second wife was actress Ali McGraw, whom friends claimed was his true love) and had two children with his first wife, though he was connected with numerous other women and actresses in Hollywood over the course of his career. He was a prolific drug user, smoker, and drinker. His love for racing never waned, and he enthusiastically embraced every opportunity to drive and do his own stunts in his films. He would eventually own a collection of 130 motorcycles.

In 1980, at the young age of 50, Steve McQueen died from pleural mesothelioma, a type of cancer associated with asbestos exposure. McQueen believed it originated from high exposure to asbestos while in the Marines.

McQueen’s Notable Films

A scene from the Great Escape

A scene from The Great Escape

The Great Escape (1963)

Steve McQueen’s role as Captain Virgil Hilts in The Great Escape cemented his stardom in Hollywood. Considered the most important performance of the film, McQueen’s costars included Richard Attenborough and James Garner, who were already movie stars in their own right. The film follows the escape attempt of Allied prisoners of war in a POW camp in what is now Poland. An international ensemble cast plots to dig three tunnels, named Tom, Dick, and Harry, and each character is given a task and a nickname. Though the film is based on real events, the story was heavily adapted for the screen to heighten the drama and the suspense of the escape.  In one famous scene, McQueen’s character jumps a high fence on a motorcycle; the stunt, which did not occur in real life, was requested by McQueen purely because he was an avid motorcyclist.

The film was a commercial and critical success, and today it is still considered a film classic.

Steve McQueen in The Sand Pebbles

Steve McQueen in The Sand Pebbles

The Sand Pebbles – nominated for an Academy Award (1966)

The Sand Pebbles, a lesser-known film from Steve McQueen’s body of work, is notable in that it was the only role that netted McQueen an Academy Award nomination. The fictional story is centered around a rebellious Navy machinist’s mate aboard a navy vessel nicknamed the Sand Pebble in 1920s China as the ship patrols the Yangtze river. China is in the midst of a revolution, and the ship and the crew must navigate a tense, evolving political situation and personal entanglements in which it is almost impossible to remain neutral. The drawn-out filming was fraught with bad weather, local government conflicts, illness, and equipment issues, and McQueen was heard to have said that he had paid for the sins in his life during the filming.

Steve McQueen and Faye Dunaway on the set of The Thomas Crown Affair

Steve McQueen and Faye Dunaway on the set of The Thomas Crown Affair

The Thomas Crown Affair (1968)

There are some that consider the 1968 version of The Thomas Crown Affair to be the most stylish film ever made. Bored millionaire Thomas Crown, played superbly by Steve McQueen, entertains himself by organizing the “perfect” bank heist. An insurance investigator played by Faye Dunaway is sent to investigate the robbery, and she immediately suspects that he is the responsible party. A game of cat and mouse then ensues, and McQueen and Dunaway’s characters become romantically entangled despite their opposing goals.

Originally the part was offered to Sean Connery, but Steve McQueen’s smug confidence and dapper style (as well as the memorable score) made the film a cinematic triumph.

Steve McQueen with Bullitt's famous Mustang Fastback

Steve McQueen with Bullitt’s famous Mustang Fastback

Bullitt (1968)

Bullitt was one of McQueen’s best-known films in terms of critical acclaim and commercial success. The film spoke to his love of cars and driving. The plot begins with McQueen’s maverick police sergeant character Frank Bullitt being assigned to protect a mob defector, Johnny Ross, from retribution before he can be called as a star witness in a hearing on organized crime. An assassination attempt is made, and through a series of aliases, cover-ups, and other twists and turns, the viewer is led to a dramatic conclusion. The film is noted for filming extensively on location and capturing realistic depictions of police procedural detail at the time.

McQueen wearing a monochrome turtleneck with his jacket, a style that is popular again right now

McQueen wearing a monochrome turtleneck with his jacket, a style that is popular again right now

That being said, the most memorable scene in Bullitt is the car chase, in which Bullitt (in a Ford Mustang) chases two hitmen (in a Dodge Charger) through the streets of San Francisco. The scene is considered to be one of film’s best classic car chases and took nearly 3 weeks to film on location. At the time, it was certainly it’s ground-breaking even though it might seem slow compared to modern-day car chases. McQueen tried in vain for years to buy the 1968 390 V8 Ford Mustang GT fastback he drove in the film, but he never succeeded. Nevertheless, Bullitt is certainly one of Steve McQueen’s most iconic works.

Steve McQueen’s Signature Style

Steve McQueen could not have been nicknamed the “King of Cool” without the requisite wardrobe. Steve McQueen could pull off casual workwear, western attire, and 3-piece suits while looking equally authentic in them all – not many men have that kind of range. He rocked a certain nonchalant confidence that is the envy of every man who has perused a style gallery of his most famous looks. He was one of the lucky few men that simply looked good in everything he put on.

Steve McQueen Casual Style

Steve McQueen’s Casual Style: 3-roll-2 sport coat, sweater, chinos, and chukka boots

Here is the best part about Steve McQueen’s style: virtually any of his looks would pass for stylish right now, so you can draw inspiration from his aesthetic without looking the slightest concern of looking dated.

Steve McQueen in navy Harrington Jacket

Steve McQueen in navy Harrington Jacket

Why Steve McQueen’s Style Worked For Him

Here are some of the many reasons that Steve McQueen’s style just worked, and will work on you as well:

  • He kept his look classic and simple. Very rarely do you see Steve McQueen wearing more than one accessory or pattern; he stuck with well-combined solids in classic cuts that didn’t chase the trends of the time. His film career peaked in the 60’s and 70’s, but he didn’t embrace the trends of the time such as boldly printed jackets or bell-bottom pants. As a result, he looks timeless, and not dated, in photos. McQueen also selected his accessories carefully, and his Rolex Explorer II Ref 1655 or Submariner Ref 5512 watches or a single signet ring were often his only accessories.
Raphael Malachite Pinky Ring & Cufflinks

Not only can a ring (like the malachite pinky ring pictured here) make a statement, but it can also be paired with cufflinks–in this case, eagle claw cufflinks from Fort Belvedere also featuring malalchite,

  • His fit was spot-on. Though clearly not one for fussy tailoring, whatever McQueen put on fit him well. Shirts were fitted but no too tight; pants are straight, slim but not too tight, and tailored with little or no break.
  • He mastered layers. McQueen was a big fan of jackets, and he used classics such as Harrington, bomber, and motorcycle jackets to great effect. He wore them over slim-fit sweaters, and ultimately they became one of his most identifiable style staples.
  • He knew what looked good on him. His rebellious nature might have played a role in rejecting the trends of the time, but when McQueen found something that looked good on him, such as tear-shaped sunglasses like Persols and Aviators, he stuck with them.
The king of sunglasses. Mr. Steve McQueen.

The king of sunglasses, Steve McQueen in Persol frames

How to Get Steve McQueen’s Signature Look

To replicate the key elements of Steve McQueen’s effortless cool-guy look, do the following:

  • Keep it casual, but not too casual. Steve McQueen was not a dandy by nature, but he also was never a slob. In the 60’s and 70’s, khakis were casual, and unless he was filming, you’d never see Steve McQueen in gym clothes. Keep your clothing choices well-fitting, simple, and casual to emulate his style.
  • If you wear a suit, make it count. Even though Steve McQueen’s core style is more casual when he did wear a suit he took it seriously. His suits are tailored, well-fitting, and he clearly considered all the details.
Sven Raphael Schneider in Three Piece Suit with double breasted waistcoat

Sven Raphael Schneider in Three Piece Suit with double-breasted waistcoat and Fort Belvedere accessories including an Edelweiss boutonniere

  • Layer jackets over simple layers. Jackets over thin sweaters are a quintessential McQueen choice, and the combination looks great on most men.
  • Find a signature pair of shades. They may not be Persols, but never hesitate to keep wearing a classic frame if it looks good on you.
  • Stock up on sweaters and khakis. Sweaters and chinos are the backbones of a great casual wardrobe, and in classic cuts, they will look good for years to come.
  • Invest in a classic watch. McQueen was partial to Rolexes and Tag Heuer watches, and they paired well with his style. Find a great watch that suits your aesthetic and it will be a worthwhile investment.
McQueen in a classic white t-shirt

McQueen in a classic white crew neck t-shirt with short sleeves

Conclusion

While there are certainly aspects of Steve McQueen’s personal and professional life that would not necessarily be considered “gentlemanly,” his memorable performances on film. and his undeniable command of a cool and effortless style, mean that his influence in both of these areas is one that won’t soon be forgotten.

What do you think of Steve McQueen’s legacy and style? What would you replicate from his wardrobe? Let us know in the comments!

How to Build a Green & Sustainable Menswear Wardrobe

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In today’s world, many of us are constantly trying to find ways to lessen our personal impact on the environment; as the saying goes, “reduce, reuse, and recycle.” But can this concept be extended to one’s wardrobe–especially as related to classic menswear?

It’s a well-known issue that the garment industry and the manufacturing of clothing contribute to labor abuses in low-cost countries, to the abuse of natural resources, and last but not least, to hyper-consumerism. In particular, fast-fashion brands take advantage of the ever-increasing rate of turnover, trends, and fashion seasons in clothing that exploit insecurities in men which in turn leads to them buying every time something new comes out and throwing the old stuff away.

How Can You Make Your Wardrobe More Sustainable?

Unfortunately, there’s no way to make your wardrobe 100% green and sustainable, but today’s we’ll walk through nine smart ways to help you build a wardrobe in a way that’s kinder to nature and overall less wasteful. All clothes are made from some form of raw material that is either spun or woven into a fabric that is dyed, and the final product is typically shipped around the globe to get to the end consumer. All these stages have environmental impacts; some more than others, but they all do to a certain extent.

All fabrics go through stages that have environmental impacts.

As a consumer, it is basically impossible to opt-out of the supply chain unless you decide to go naked all the time, or maybe herd your own sheep, spin your own yarn and make your own clothes. However, in the words of Anne Marie Bonneau of the Zero-Waste Chef blog, “We don’t need a handful of people doing zero waste perfectly. We need millions of people doing it imperfectly,” because this has a much bigger impact on our environment and the green aspect.

Sustainable Capsule Wardrobe

A sustainable, capsule-style wardrobe

So, rather than striving for perfection and feeling guilty about having an interest in clothes, it’s better to try a few ways to reduce your impact, or your environmental footprint, to create a more green and sustainable wardrobe.

1. Ask Yourself What The Real Impact Is

First of all, always ask yourself, “What is the real impact of the thing I’m buying here right now?” For instance, just about every fabric, natural or not, has an impact on the environment. Even something like viscose (which is really popular right now), derived from bamboo which is renewable and grows quickly. That can also have an impact, in the sense that maybe the rainforest is destroyed to grow more bamboo.

Ask yourself what the impact is to our environment.

Fortunately, in this day and age, there are lots of companies who talk about how their products are made, what kind of materials they use, and what impact that whole thing has on the environment. So for example, if you buy a blazer in a nylon or polyester blend, it will likely age very quickly and after two or three seasons, you’ll see pilling and you’ll probably want to throw it away. On the flip side, if you get a 100% wool blazer, you can probably wear it for ten years or several decades to come, which brings us to the next point…

2. Invest in Quality Over Quantity

Frankly, one of the easiest things you can do as a consumer is to buy your clothing more intentionally but less frequently. For example, a sweater in a timeless style with a high-quality yarn is something that you can probably wear over the course of 30 years and obviously, that is much more sustainable than buying a cheap sweater out of a short, stable material at a lower cost in a trendy pattern that will pill just a few times after you wear it.

OCBD collar shirt with a green tennis sweater and a houndstooth tie

OCBD collar shirt with a green tennis sweater and a red-and-cream houndstooth tie in bourette silk from Fort Belvedere

Personally, I try to avoid buying things if I can’t trace back the origins especially if the item is new. If a company can’t give me detailed information about the yarn they use, the staple length, and what goes into making the product, I would rather skip it and buy from a company that can give me those answers, because that way I know I’m buying a quality product.

3. Consider Things from the Perspective of Natural Resources

Even though the concept of a green or sustainable wardrobe may not resonate with you, think about it from a resource perspective, not just for Mother Nature but also for your own wallet. Typically, a green or sustainable wardrobe is more intentional, more satisfying, and also less wasteful. Further, you’ll typically spend less money on it in the long term rather than buying cheap stuff left or right without any thought through concept.

Building a Green and Sustainable Wardrobe requires less amount of money.

Why? Well, because it’s filled with useful, versatile, and high-quality pieces that don’t have to be replenished very often and that will stand the test of time. That means you’ll have to invest a whole lot less money, and who wouldn’t like that?

4. Develop Your Own Style

Another thing you can do for a more sustainable wardrobe is to dig a little deeper into yourself and what you want, and develop your own style that is independent of current fashion movements. If you think you know your style already, think again. Have you ever bought something that you never really ended up wearing? If you have, then chances are you haven’t quite nailed your style yet.

The reality is, we all make mistakes, but the beauty of mistakes is that we can learn from them. So, if you have bought something in the past that you didn’t end up wearing, ask yourself, “Why Did I not end up wearing it? Why did I buy it in the first place?” Then, as follow-up questions ask yourself, “How do I want to be perceived?” Also, “How does outfit/garment X, Y or Z make me feel?” Because if something makes you feel good, your body language and demeanor will really radiate that feeling.

Once you’ve developed your own style, you’ll gain confidence.

Also, analyze your wardrobe and ask, “What are the garments I wear over and over again?” Then figure out what makes you keep coming back to them. Is it the fit, the color, is it maybe just the convenience? Once you’ve mastered that, you can ask yourself, “What does an ideal wardrobe for me look like?” That question can also be, “What do I value the most in clothing? Is it comfort, versatility, simplicity, or quality?” You figure it out.

The whole purpose of asking these questions is that you come up with a style that works for you, your personality, and what makes you feel good. That means you can wear it consistently. You will always be perceived as well-dressed and it always provides a certain confidence, because you chose this exact outfit for your very own reasons (meaning you’re not just following a new trend because it’s hip right now). Best of all, once you’ve found your style and nailed it, you can wear the same things over and over again in different combinations. But because of that, you will buy less which will save you money.

Once you’ve found your style and nailed it, you can wear the same things over and over again in different combinations. The left ensemble features the light purple Cornflower boutonniere, and the right features the Veronica Persica boutonniere and battleship gray jacquard silk tie, all from Fort Belvedere

5. Stop Impulse Buying

If you find yourself impulse buying frequently, chances are very high that you’re just wasting money. It leads to you buying things on a whim that don’t actually fill the gaps in your current wardrobe, and because of that, it’s likely not very versatile. If you resist your impulse and go with your plan, you’re much less likely to end up with junk that ends up in your wardrobe just because it was 90% on sale but that doesn’t really suit a purpose. 

Impulse buying leads you to buy things that don’t really fill the gap in your wardrobe and is a waste of money.

6. Throw Away Less Clothing

Of course, throwing away fewer of your clothes starts with buying fewer of the wrong things in the first place. So, next time you face an impulse buy or something that pleases your eye, ask yourself these questions (but be honest, not romantic):

  • How long will this piece last in my wardrobe?
  • For how many years am I going to wear it?
  • How many times will I wear it before I toss it?
  • If I toss it, will I do so because I don’t like the style anymore and times have changed, or will I toss it because it’s so delicate that it will have worn out?

Ask yourself this before buying: “How long will this piece last in my wardrobe, and for how many years am I going to wear it?”

If any of those questions indicate that you won’t have this piece for a long time, simply don’t buy it.

7. Buy Vintage Clothing

A fantastic way to be green and sustainable is to buy vintage or secondhand clothing. I know, vintage clothes are often referred to as “dead man’s clothing,” and some people are turned off by that; personally, I love vintage and secondhand clothes. For me, it all started not with a mindset of wanting to be sustainable or green, but simply by striving for quality while not having a budget for it as a high school student.

Bobby from Boston was a legendary vintage store

Bobby from Boston, a legendary vintage store

Often, vintage or secondhand clothes have the connotation of the wearer being broke. However, even though I am now at a point where I could afford to have custom-made pieces for my entire wardrobe, I still love vintage clothing. It often uses wonderful fabrics, features cuts, styles, and details that are simply hard to find these days, and I just appreciate buying something that has a history.

A fantastic way to be green and sustainable is to buy vintage or secondhand clothing.

While it’s true that vintage clothes are often a whole lot less expensive than new clothes, you’re also buying something that has already been produced, and so you have a much smaller impact–because most of the time these garments would just be recycled and reused to make into an inferior garment. This way, you just stop buying new things, so when looking at it on the macro level from the perspective of supply and demand, manufacturers will produce fewer new things.

Furthermore, many vintage pieces are rather high quality because after all those years, they’re still in good enough shape to be resold. Personally, I’d also urge you to think outside of the realm of clothing. You can find fantastic vintage secondhand furniture, glassware, china, and so forth; basically anything relative to interior design and dedicated stores, at places like eBay or Etsy, but also local estate sales.

Vintage Glasswares

Today, I love vintage goods not only because of their quality but also because of their unique character that you can’t find in run-of-the-mill stuff. By shopping vintage, you’ll also become aware of great brands that have good quality, and that have stood the test of time. Once, my wife and I bought a couch from Hancock and Moore that was secondhand, and we loved it so much that any couch going forward will be guaranteed from this manufacturer even if we have to buy it new. Unless of course, we reupholster the old couch because it has such good bones.

Our vintage couch from Hancock and Moore.

8. Care and Repair

Don’t just throw things away. Well-cared-for clothes will not only last you longer, but also look much better with age. Rather than just throwing something away ask yourself, “Can I fix it?” Of course, it all has to make sense. Mending a $70 H&M jacket for $100 is probably not wise, because you could buy a new one for less–and the jacket, in general, is not meant to be worn for a long time. On the flipside is a $2,000 sport coat that you picked up for $25 at Goodwill should be mended for $100, because it has a whole lot of wear left in it.

You don’t have to bring your stuff to a dry cleaner, a bit of steam and a clothes brush helps.

So, the big question is, how do you care for your clothes and protect your investment, and at the same time become more green and sustainable? Well, honestly, in most cases you don’t even have to spend money bringing your stuff to a dry cleaner. Oftentimes, a bit of steam helps, or a nice clothes brush. Sometimes repairing things also means thinking a bit outside of the box. For example, I had a red sweater from Polo Ralph Lauren that was pretty old. I loved wearing it, and eventually I wore it out on the elbows, so I just bought a bit of red leather and had elbow patches sewn on. Now the sweater has many more years of wear left in it.

My old red sweater from Polo Ralph Lauren has many more years of wear left in it.

Even if your clothes do wear out, for example, your shirts, where the interlining is visible and the collar is basically falling apart; you can still wear that stuff around the house, maybe for cooking or gardening.

You can still wear your old shirts around the house.

9. Invest in Versatile Pieces

In the past, we introduced you to the concept of a capsule wardrobe. At its core, the idea of a capsule wardrobe is that you can pair anything with anything else. While that’s very extreme, and you sometimes may want to wear a velvet dinner jacket that doesn’t combine with anything else in your wardrobe, there are certain items such as a navy blazer that can be worn with a matching pair of pants for a suit, or maybe with a pair of jeans, a pair of chinos, or gray flannels. It’s just a very versatile garment, and if you buy those pieces that work very well with other stuff, it’s going to be very easy for you to combine something. 

Single Breasted Blazer with popover shirt, cotton pocket square, khakis and brown tassel loafers

The Hogtown Rake wears a Single-Breasted Blazer with popover shirt, cotton pocket square, khakis and brown tassel loafers

This also means you buy less; you save money, and you’re just going to be much happier–not least because when you travel, you’ll be very flexible in what you can wear. For example, the same is true for a pair of cufflinks that you buy; that goes with a lot of outfits. Let’s say you invest in the Fort Belvedere belt system with different buckles and belts. That way, you could buy three belts and three buckles–thus giving you nine options to basically cover you for all the occasions you will need them for. So, rather than buying nine belts, you’re buying just three, but you get the versatility of nine. Obviously, smart modular systems of that nature will help you keep a smaller ecological footprint and build a greener and more sustainable wardrobe.

Invest in versatile pieces like the Belt System from Fort Belvedere.

Conclusion

Building a green and sustainable wardrobe to reduce ecological impacts is also a less wasteful approach to dressing. It requires some introspection in terms of your personal style, as well as being more mindful of what you welcome into your closet, but the results will almost certainly be worth it!

What strategies for sustainability do you incorporate into your wardrobe? Share with us in the comments!

Iron vs. Steamer: Which is Best for Your Menswear Wardrobe?

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For distinguished gentlemen, neat and properly cared for articles of clothing are key to looking well-dressed–and how they are worn is just as important, if not, more so than the clothing itself. So when it comes to garment care, does the iron or the steamer do a better job?

Just because you might be able to afford designer labels, that doesn’t mean that they’re going to look good on you, if the fit is poor or if the garments are improperly cared for. We’ve covered fit in a number of other guides, but today’s guide is another installment in our long-running garment care series, covering two appliances designed to eliminate unsightly wrinkles from your clothing — the iron and the garment steamer. Each of these works in a different way and has its own advantages and disadvantages.

wrinkles directly underneath the armpit

No matter the quality of a garment’s fabric, a poor fit makes for a sloppy appearance (even though the rust orange silk knit tie from Fort Belvedere is a smart choice!)

A Brief History of Irons & Steamers

Iron

The iron (also called steam iron or flat iron) is an appliance that, when heated, is used to press the wrinkles out of clothing. Metal pans filled with hot coals were used to smooth out fabrics as far back as the First Century B.C./B.C.E. in China. Fast forward to the 17th century, where handles were attached to thick, triangular slabs of cast iron, which were then heated in fires or on stovetops. Other designs, instead of solid cast-iron slabs, were box irons that could either be filled with hot coals or heated iron rods.

Cast-iron slabs with handles were the irons used in the 17th century.

By the late 19th or early 20th centuries, there were many irons in use that were heated using fuels such as kerosene, ethanol, whale oil, natural gas, or even gasoline. Some houses were equipped with a system of pipes to distribute gases to different rooms in order to operate different appliances such as irons, in addition to lights in the home. And despite the fire risk, liquid-fuel irons were sold (at least in the United States and in rural areas therein) up to about World War II –at which point they were largely supplanted by newer, electrically powered irons.

A midcentury electric iron

The invention of the resistively heated electric iron is credited to Henry W. Seeley of New York City in 1882, however. Meanwhile, credit for the invention of the steam iron goes to Thomas Sears. The first commercially available electric steam iron was introduced in 1926 by the Eldec company of New York, but it wasn’t initially a commercial success. The patent for an electric steam iron was issued to Max Skolnik of Chicago in 1934. Four years later, in 1938, Skolnik granted the Steam-O-Matic Corporation of New York the exclusive right to manufacture steam-electric irons. It was these irons that achieved popularity and led the way to the more widespread use of electric steam ironing during the 1940s and ’50s, which continues up to the present day.

Fabric Steamer

Meanwhile, commercial fabric steamers (also called garment steamers or simply steamers) have been available since the early 1900s, employed early on by professional cleaners before spreading to home usage–but compact models are a fairly modern innovation. Some sources indicate that more portable models came about because of the popularity of men’s hats in the first half of the 20th century. At the time many people used a tea kettle to steam out wrinkles in their hats or to re-block them. Garment steamers made this job much easier.

 

Jiffy Garment Steamer

An industrial garment steamer from well-known brand, Jiffy

Today’s fabric steamers come in three basic sizes: the commercial floor models used at dry cleaners and manufacturing plants; the mid-sized models for home or small businesses like tailors; and the most recent evolution, which would be the mini steamers used for quick touch-ups and for travel. 

Today’s fabric steamers come in three basic sizes: commercial floor models, mid-sized models, and mini steamers.

How Does an Iron Work?

Most domestic irons typically range in operating temperature between 250°F (121°C) to about 360°F (182°C). Ironing works by loosening the bonds between long chains of molecules that exist in fibrous materials like fabrics. With the heat and the weight of the ironing plate, the fabrics are stretched and then maintain their new shape after they cool.

An iron uses heat and weight (sometimes aided by steam) to stretch garment fibers

The hot plate (or sole plate) is typically made of polished aluminum or stainless steel, and can sometimes be coated with friction and heat-resistant plastic. The heating element is controlled by a thermostat that switches the current on and off at a certain rate to maintain the desired temperature.

How Does a Steamer Work?

In the case of the steamer (and as the name implies), steam is the primary agent to remove wrinkles from garments, rather than heavy pressure. The steam, sometimes along with slight pressure from the steamer’s surface, relaxes the fiber of the garment rather than flattening it. A jet of steam, either from a wand at the end of a hose, or a smaller, more compact unit, is generally directed at the surface of a garment (which can be hung from a hanger). As we said, the steamer is generally held a bit away from the fabric, but more pressure can be applied if necessary.

Steam works to relax a garment’s fibers, aided by gravity

To generate steam, steamers typically heat their water to anywhere between 200 and 400°F (93 to 200°C), though the larger stand-up models will usually allow for temperature control. The higher settings are typically used to steam wrinkles out of denser, sturdier fabrics like cotton and linen, while cooler settings are used for more fragile fabrics. Portable steamers are typically without temperature controls and as such, they tend to run cooler on average.

Visible steam being emitted from a portable garment steamer

Simply put, then, both irons and steamers use heat to remove wrinkles from clothing–though an iron uses the aid of pressure, where a steamer uses the aid of moisture in addition to the force of gravity. Most modern irons now have steaming functions, as well, to take advantage of using moisture. But this doesn’t mean steamers are obsolete–far from it, in fact. 

Pros and Cons of Irons and Steamers

Iron Pros

An iron is going to provide a clean and crisp finish overall, and will be more efficient than steaming on heavy and durable fibers and weaves, like linen, wool, and denim. It’s ideal for any garment in need of a sharp crease, like dress pants for instance, and should also work well on dress shirts. An iron will also provide greater control and precision, given that you’ll be able to easily maneuver the solid plate rather than the more random dispersal that steam will provide. 

Irons will provide a crisp and efficient finish on heavier fibers

Iron Cons

In terms of drawbacks, irons are easy to use on smooth fabrics and large expanses of fabric, but they’re going to be trickier on things like sleeves, pleats, and curved surfaces. There are workarounds for this of course, such as using things like a tailor’s ham or a sleeve board but this is obviously going to require extra equipment. Perhaps the biggest drawback of irons is that they post a greater risk of burning or otherwise marking clothes if they’re left in place for too long.

Using pieces of equipment like a tailor’s ham can aid in trickier areas like curves, pleats, etc.

Finally, everything required for the ironing process will take up more real estate in your home. Not only because of the accessories we just mentioned, but also because of the ironing board. While you can get away with placing a towel over a flat surface like a table in a pinch, having a true ironing board is ideal. And while most ironing boards can be folded and stored, the fact of the matter is that all of your ironing equipment is still going to take up a bit of room.

All your ironing equipment will still take a bit of room in your home.

Steamer Pros

Meanwhile, steamers work especially well for heat-sensitive materials like silk and synthetics, as well as delicate materials like cashmere, velvet, and corduroy. With that said, though, steamers do have the ability to remove wrinkles from almost any kind of fabric, with minimal risk of scorching. They’re ideal for freshening up items between washes, and they do well with garments where iron would be unwieldy, like structured jackets. The newer, portable-sized steamers, while not necessarily as powerful as their stand-up counterparts, are ideal for travel, as well.

Steamers typically aren’t going to take up as much room as an ironing setup

Also, most steamers are easy to use. The user simply needs to hang up their garment, fill the steamer’s water reservoir and plug it in, wait for a few minutes, and then go over the article with a sweeping motion, allowing the steam from the wand to straighten out any wrinkles. Steamers are generally faster than irons, as well, as you don’t have to lay your garments out on a flat surface and keep re-positioning them as you work.

Whether hand-held or stand-up, steamers typically aren’t going to take up as much room as an ironing setup, either. When using a steamer with a hanging garment you won’t create creases, as you aren’t flattening the fabric against a hard surface and you’ll easily be able to see how the garment naturally hangs. This is in contrast to an iron, where if you’ve got multiple layers of fabric on top of one another, you might be wrinkling one portion while smoothing out another. Steamers, therefore, are generally going to be more user-friendly overall.

Steamers are user-friendly, overall.

Steamer Cons

Disadvantages of steamers, meanwhile, include having to spend more time on thicker fabrics, not being able to set creases as exactly, and possibly tiring out your operating arm, depending on how much time you’re spending and how many garments you’re steaming. It is also possible to over-steam, as well, at which point you might start to loosen the seams on some garments.

Irons and steamers each have pros and cons

Safety Guidelines

  • Neither appliance is recommended for leather, suede, waxed fabrics, or anything that might melt when heated. It’s always a good idea to check the cleaning guidelines on your garment’s tags before attempting to use an iron or a steamer on them.
  • When in doubt, it’s always a safer choice to go with a cooler operating temperature, especially when using an iron.
  • And of course, whether you’re using an iron or a steamer, you should always be aware of where the heated components are in relation to your skin, so you don’t burn yourself. You’ll want to avoid touching the plate and the steam nozzle on an iron, and avoid putting your opposite hand in the path of the steam from a steamer’s head.

Check the cleaning guidelines on your garment’s tags before attempting to use an iron or a steamer on them.

  • Monitor both appliances and always remember to turn them off once you’ve completed your work. Some irons and steamers do include automatic shut-off functions, but you shouldn’t always rely on these.
  • Finally, it’s important to keep children and pets away from either of these appliances when they’re in use.

Don’t forget to turn them off after use.

Iron vs. Steamer: Which is Better?

The answer is: we recommend both! You might not be surprised to hear it, given everything we’ve laid out in this guide, but the fact of the matter is that each appliance has its own best uses, where the other would be lacking.

It’s best to have both an iron and a steamer in your arsenal!

An iron is better if results matter to you. While ironing takes a bit longer and requires a bit more expertise, it provides a level of polish a steamer can’t. Meanwhile, a steamer is easier to use, more versatile overall, and provides generally good results on both delicate and average weight fabrics. It’s ideal for touch-ups and for use while traveling. The well-prepared gentleman, then, should ideally have an iron and a steamer in his garment care arsenal.

Do you have a preference between irons and steamers? Share with us in the comments!

10 (More) Classic Fragrances for Gentlemen

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Scents are deeply personal and some men would never think about leaving the house without one whereas others, never use one in the first place. But for us, we agree with G. Bruce Boyer who advocates that a man should have a wardrobe of fragrances so he can choose the right one for the right outfit and the right occasion.

This is the second installment of classic men’s fragrances where we see how they’ve stood the test of time, and if you haven’t yet, you can check out part one here.

Experimenting with fragrances can be quite expensive because once you open it, you can’t return it. Even though there are thousands of fragrances out there, we wanted to focus specifically on the classic ones that have been around for a while because there’s a lot of marketing hype and marketing dollars in the game but we wanted something that was truly classic and gentlemanly. Just like in part one of this series, we only considered scents there for 30 years or older.

10 (More) Classic Fragrances for Gentlemen

In this list, we talk about the cost of a bottle, the fragrance notes, the history of the cologne, as well as our personal review.

4711 by Mäurer & Wirtz

In German, it’s “siebenundvierzig elf.” It is now at Mäurer & Wirtz but it used to be from Mülhens. It was originally created in 1792 as a health elixir. These days though, it’s only used for external application. Like when a fragrance is this old, this was made from men and women. It is a classic citrus fragrance and it doesn’t have an atomizer, so you have to apply directly to your skin.

Overall, you can get this fragrance project more if you add a spray head or if you decant it. In my experience, it’s got a weak longevity but it’s relatively inexpensive so you can reapply it many times. Some people in Germany like to add it to their guest bathroom. Personally, I’m not a huge fan of that.

4711 is the oldest cologne still sold

4711 by Mäurer & Wirtz  by Mäurer & Wirtz is the oldest cologne still sold

Top notes are orange oil, peach, basil, bergamot, and definitely lemon. In the heart note, people could smell lily and melon. Personally, I smell more of the rose and jasmine. In the base notes, get some patchouli, vetiver, and musk, as well as oakmoss and sandalwood. Some people also smell cedar.

Our verdict? We had four people on our team test this cologne just so we get a more well-rounded review rather than just my personal opinion. So, what did our team of four think about this cologne? Well personally, I think it smells like the classic unisex cologne or perfume for grandparents. Maybe I’m biased because I grew up in Germany but at the end of the day it’s old people’s stuff. It’s great beyond your 70s or older. Personally, I would not wear it. That being said, our team liked it more than denied it but they didn’t grow up with it.

It’s priced at $22 for 100ml which is quite inexpensive in the fragrance world but I would rate it at a 2 or 2.5 at most and it’s just not something I’d wear.

Aramis 

This was created in 1966 and is undoubtedly a very masculine scent. Aramis is a member of the Chypre fragrance family which is built around citrus, oakmoss, spices and woods. It’s considered by many to be one of the first fragrances to combine citrus notes with a more masculine sense. It’s also one of the few fragrances where leather is a very strong detectable note and on a top note, I can smell cinnamon, I can smell some bergamot, and something flowery; some people call it gardenia.

In a heart note, I can definitely smell some sandalwood, vetiver, and patchouli. The base notes for me are leathery, there’s some oakmoss and some people could smell amber, but I couldn’t. In my mind, it’s definitely heavier in the 4711 but it still has that citrus note. It’s a great masculine cologne and personally, I’d rather wear it in the fall winter season than in the spring summer season. It’s definitely a scent with a strong presence and because of that, I think it’s better suited for evening occasions; not so much for the office because some people may just think it’s too strong.

At a price of $25 for 110ml, Aramis is definitely on the lower end of the fragrance scale. Our team rated it unanimously at about 3 out of 5 stars.

D.R Harris Classic 

It was developed in London in the late 1800s in one of the oldest pharmacies there. It has been on St. James Street for over 200 years and they hold the Royal Warrant from Prince Charles.

Classic Cologne, a masculine fragrance by D.R. Harris & Co. Ltd.

Classic Cologne, a masculine fragrance by D.R. Harris & Co. Ltd.

It is characterized as an aromatic fougere scent with a citrus-forward note. While some people can smell some lemongrass, rosemary, and rose water into hardened base notes, I could just smell the lime in as a top note because it’s the dominant scent. In my mind, this was a citrus all the way and it smelled more like a tub cleaning product to me than a high-end cologne. It’s like for me a lighter, fresher summery scent which is great for day wear and it’s definitely a unisex. 

Our team really likes the fruity and spicy and citrus for a profile. Personally, I don’t want to smell like a cleaning product, so I would not wear that one. My rating is 1.5 out of 5, our team rated at 3.5 out of 5. The price is $60 for a 100ml; it is not super expensive but somewhere in the middle.

Geo F. Trumper Extract of West Indian Limes

It was created in 1880 by George Francis Trumper who was a master barber and the name says it all; this one is all about lime. It’s one of the brand’s most favorite colognes and as a brand describes it, it is the essence of those West Indian limes.

When I smelled it, it’s very clear, direct, limey. There’s not much else there. When I smelled it for the first time, I instantly thought of Caipirinha and because of that, it’s a very beachy, summery scent. It’s not just unisex, but it’s also priced at $60 for just 50ml of cologne and frankly, I was wondering if I could just put some lime on my skin, I would probably smell exactly the same.

On our team, people liked that it was unisex but they complained that it was actually not long-lasting. Preston and Kyle thought it was the favorite cologne in the lineup. So my rating would be just 2 out of 5 stars, their rating would be 4 out of 5.

Dunhill for Men

This one was created in 1934 by Alfred Dunhill, the son of the founder of Alfred Dunhill Limited which was a well-known London luxury goods maker specializing in tobacco and leather goods. Very much in line with their brand cachet, they created a fragrance that is heavy and manly.

On the top note, I can smell some lavender and a nutmeg, some people could smell geranium. I thought there was also a bit of a lemon. The strongest heart notes for me were woods and a smell of a fresh cut carnation. Other people could also smell iris, rose and jasmine. The base note was definitely leather, vetiver and sandalwood and it was something else. Looking through our people’s notes, it seems to me the tonka bean because the oakmoss and the cedar was there but the characteristic part was a tonka bean that just made it smell different.

The rice is $46 for 100ml. It’s definitely somewhere in the middle. Frankly for my first sniff, I came too close and was just overpowering and overwhelming. At that point, I would have given it a -1 out of 5. After the initial shock, I could smell some lavender and it made me think of a 1950’s women’s powder room, not a London gentlemen’s club. When we test scents, we always smell them very up close in our skin and I think sometimes that’s not quite realistic because other people will smell you from much further away and the scents really smell differently.

Because of that, I gave it more chances, I wore it on regular days and tried to experience what it felt like, and I liked it more than I initially did. I would definitely still call it an old-school scent. Some people may call it dated, others may call it just serious. Overall, it’s a mixed bag. So the team rated it at 2 out of 5 stars. I probably would give it a 3 out of 5, now that I’ve worn it a little more often.

Chanel Pour Monsieur

It was created in 1955 by Chanel’s second chief perfumer, Henri Robert. It was Chanel’s first fragrance for men and is such a novelty.

On top note, you can smell some lemon, verbena and orange. The heart notes have some ginger, cardamom, and coriander. On the base note, there’s definitely some cedar and oakmoss. Overall, it felt like a very round elegant scent. Personally, I like anything related to verbena or lemongrass, but this Chanel cologne wasn’t overpowering. It was very elegant and not as much in your face as a Geo. F. Trumper or a D.R. Harris.

Pour Monsieur Eau de Parfum is a more intense version of the original which is the Eau de Toilette

Pour Monsieur Eau de Parfum is a more intense version of the original which is the Eau de Toilette

Smelling it, I could tell it was designed for the Parisian gentleman not for the American cowboy. Why? Well, it’s not this distinct heavy men’s cologne like the Alfred Dunhill, it’s just a bit more rounded, but it’s also not female. I think the Chanel Pour Monsieur could be worn in the evening but also at the office.

Personally, I gave it a 3.5 out of 5. Some people in our team hated it, others really liked it. Priced at $98 for 100ml, it’s definitely more in the upper echelon of men’s colognes that are quietly available.

Caron Pour Un Homme De Caron

Created in 1934, just like the Dunhill for Men, this scent was one of the first ones that was specifically marketed towards men. The two founders of Caron individually liked the vanilla and lavender so they just combined those two in this scent. It was a known favorite of James Dean and the current owner of Caron says that the formulation has never changed.

The top note for me was very lavender heavy, it was maybe a bit of rosemary, some people say bergamot but to me it was just lavender. In the heart note, there was maybe a bit of sandalwood, some people say sage but definitely a strong vanilla and as the lavender evaporated the vanilla was still lingering. Base notes had some musk and oakmoss and something special, which probably tonka bean.

Pour Un Homme De Caron, revolutionary duo of lavender and vanilla.

Pour Un Homme De Caron, revolutionary duo of lavender and vanilla.

While someone on our team called it understated, personally, it felt like an assault to my nose. At first, I smelled it too up close and it was just strong lavender and especially vanilla and I really disliked vanilla colognes or scents. It’s just not my type of thing. It reminds me of a woman’s hair salon in the 1950s and the closer you get to it the stronger the vanilla gets. Frankly in my mind, it’s a lavender vanilla balm and I can see it being used for a milkshake flavor, maybe a chocolate flavor or ice cream, but not for a men’s cologne.

People on our team said it’s not like candy with a licorice note. In my mind it was a straight 0 out of 5. I would never ever wear this. Our team on the other hand, gave it a 2 out of 5 with a caveat that they wouldn’t wear anything below a 3. Even though it’s just priced at $30 for 180ml, this is a solid NO for everyone on our team.

Old Spice

Even though this seems to be the classic grandpa cologne in the last 50 years, it was actually invented much earlier in 1937. At the time, it was created by Shulton Inc. However, in the 1970s Old Spice pivoted from just old school shaving, more on to fragrances and so eventually, it was bought by Procter & Gamble. The true original formula of Old Spice is no longer available because Procter & Gamble reformulated it in 2016 to comply with current regulations.

If you grew up in the US, Old Spice is probably a scent that you’re familiar with because your dad might have used it or your grandpa and it was just a very commonplace aftershave. Because of that, many will probably associate an old-school vibe with it and nostalgia.

On the top notes, I could definitely smell some nutmeg and citrusy, maybe lemon or orange and some star anise. On heart and base notes, people could smell all kinds of things from carnations to jasmine to vanilla. Personally, I thought it wasn’t such a strong sense. It was hard for me to pick a specific sense.

Not having grown up in the US, I wasn’t really exposed to Old Spice, and I just know it from advertisements, for cheap men’s grooming products, basically. So frankly when I smelled it, I thought it was surprisingly good. Of course, when you look at the flacon and anything else, it looks really cheap because in fact, it is. Eight dollars for 120ml is hard to beat.

It’s definitely a more subtle scent, it won’t last long and it’s not too extreme in any way so it’s kind of a crowd-pleaser. In that sense, it reminded me a bit of Acqua Di Gio because it is just something that most people will be okay with or somewhat like no one will love it, no one will hate it. In my mind, Old Spice is a lot better than 4711 and I would give it a 3.5 out of 5. Everyone on our team liked it and it made people feel very nostalgic.

Guerlain Habit Rouge

The brand was founded in 1828 and is now known as a more high-end skin care cosmetics and perfume producer. They have a rich history because they created sense for Napoleon and Queen Victoria. Habit Rouge was created in 1965 by one of the last family members in the company. It’s considered by many to be an oriental woody fragrance.

Habit Rouge was the first oriental fragrance for men in perfumery.

Habit Rouge was the first oriental fragrance for men in perfumery.

The top notes contain a lot of citrus such as tangerine, lemon, lime and orange, some bergamot; it’s pleasing. The heart note, I could smell some flowers and sandalwood. Some say they could smell some vanilla on the base note but frankly by no means, it is as strong as a Caron Pour Un Homme.

At first, I thought it was an interesting scent, it was not too much in your face and so more pleasant to wear. Nevertheless, it was distinctly masculine and I thought it was a great office cologne. I also didn’t think it was particularly seasonal so it’s a good year-round thing, maybe something would bring for business travel.

The team only gave it a 2 out of 5. Personally, I gave it a 3 out of 5. It’s priced at $40 for a 100ml, which puts it somewhere in the middle.

Paco Rabanne Pour Homme

Paco Rabanne is a pseudonym for Francisco Rabaneda y Cuervo. He was a Spanish fashion designer for the Basque region who made a name for himself because of his avant-garde designs in the 1960s. Because of his success, he eventually opened a fashion house and in 1973, introduced fragrances.

Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, pioneer of “aromatic fern” and future icon.

The scent is characterized as an aromatic fougere fragrance. Top notes include rosemary, sage and rosewood. Heart notes have some lavender and tonka bean. The base notes, I could smell a bit of sweetness, musk, and oakmoss.

Overall, it’s not very manly, mossy and bold to me. Because of that, I’d associate it with maybe a velvet dinner jacket or something but even then, it was too much for my nose and I would just give it a 1 out of 5. The team, on the other hand, rated it a 3 out of 5. If you want to go for it paired with sumptuous fabrics such as silk or brocade or velvet and then you can wear it maybe during the colder months of the year. The price is $29 for 100ml, it’s definitely not expensive but again price alone should not be an indicator whether you should buy a cologne or not.

Conclusion

Out of all the fragrances, our favorites were probably the Chanel Pour Monsieur, surprisingly Old Spice, and then Geo. F. Trumpers West Indian Limes.

If at all possible, try getting a little sample or try it on your skin because on a tester, it will just smell very different than on your personal skin. With some scents, you just need to try them a little more often to just get an idea of whether you like it or not.

Which of these fragrances is your favorite? Do you know of other classic ones we’ve missed to cover in this list? Let us know in the comments.

$4 vs. $40 Socks: Which is the Better Value?

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Socks are not a style enthusiasts’ most sexiest subject, but in fact, they can have a huge impact on the way your whole outfit looks. So, today, we compare $4 versus $40 socks, we’ll talk about the differences, the advantages, disadvantages, and why one costs 10 times as much as the other.

Socks have a unique ability to add some color to the bottom half of your outfit and therefore, you can tie your entire outfit together; you can coordinate it with your shoes, your tie, or your pocket square. The only other two options are either to exchange your shoelaces or you can buy different colored shoes, which is a lot more expensive and those kinds of shoes are typically less versatile.

In our opinion, socks are a gentleman’s secret weapon to tying together an entire outfit and bringing it alive. For instance, I use socks to make a neat transition between my pants and my shoes without sacrificing contrast or visual interest. So the big question is, for an item that you need to replace regularly in your wardrobe, should you spend $4 on it or $40?

Fort Belvedere socks matched with Raphael's suit

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Charcoal and Light Gray Fort Belvedere socks matched with Raphael’s suit for a unified appearance

A Closer Look At $4 Socks

Size

I bought a 5-pack of Dockers Men’s Dress Socks for $20. So, that comes out to be $4 per pair. That seems like a good deal especially since they are sized and I got the size 10 to 13 because I’m typically a US 11. Of course, if you are on the edges of the size category, chances are they may be a little loose or quite tight. When I shopped for $4 socks, I came across much larger size brackets such as 6 to 12 or one size fits most.

Even though I fall within the size range, the problem is that there is so much elastics in there that actually pinches my calves over the course of the day. Not only that it restricts my blood flow, but it’s also quite uncomfortable.

One size fits all socks

One size fits all socks

Color

In terms of color on the website, it looks like they came in black and khakis and variations thereof. When I got them in person, there are solid, ripped khaki pairs, there’s an argyle pattern, there is a small pattern in brown and khaki but also two in brown. Although these tones work with khakis or maybe brown pants, you have a problem with any kind of business suit socks such as charcoal or navy or gray.

Also, we take a closer look at the solid socks; it’s really hard to match a pair of solid socks to a pair of patterned or solid pants because most of the time the shade is not quite matching and it just looks off. When we get our $4 socks, they’re pretty limited in the color range and you may find black or gray, something brownish or khaki but that’s about it.

A variation of solid black, a big pattern black, and khaki with argyle, tone-in-tone stripes and a diagonal dot pattern

A variation of solid brown, a big pattern brown, and khaki with argyle, tone-in-tone stripes, and a diagonal dot pattern socks

Length

Even though they’re advertised as dress socks, they’re actually mid-calf height and because of that, they don’t stay up. Gravity is just too strong over the course of the day, so they’ll just move down towards your ankle. As a consequence, it will probably expose your legs which is unprofessional because no one wants to see your hairy legs at the office. And no, even though you shave your legs, people still don’t want to see it.

Sock Garters can be uncomfortable for some

A short sock supported by suspender

Material

On the material mix on the website, it was advertised as 71% polyester, 26% cotton, 2% spandex, and 1% nylon, the actual package itself looks different. On the actual pack, it says 83% polyester, 15% cotton, and 2% spandex. Upon touching them, they feel quite soft and comfortable because polyester can be finished to be very soft these days.

Frankly though, polyester is the cheapest of all materials that you can use in your clothing but it also ages very poorly and quickly. How? Well, soon you’ll find pilling and it just won’t stand the test of time and always look like a hand me down that’s old and worn. Polyester is also insulating, which means that you’re more prone to sweating with these kinds of socks and just having worn feet over the course of the day.

but a sock doesn’t contain them all, actually common socks are usually made up of 3 yarns

A sock doesn’t contain them all, common socks are usually made up of 3 yarns

Verdict On $4 Socks

When I put on those socks, I noticed 2 things right away. One was how thick they were compared to a more expensive pair of socks; and two, the toe area: when you need a pair of socks, it has to be finished in this toe area because machines are not quite able to do that. If it’s done by machine, it’s usually very bulky and that’s exactly what you get with a $4 pair of socks. The problem is you will always feel this elevated seam inside your shoe especially when you walk a lot.

So, in nutshell, who are $4 socks for? They are for men who think short term, who want the cheapest pair of socks that they can find without having to resort to white tennis socks. They’re also for men who don’t mind sweaty feet and don’t really want a comfortable pair of socks.

A Closer Look At The $40 Socks

Size

What exactly makes them 10x as expensive? First of all, they are sized to your foot. Most high-end socks come in a number of different sizes and at Fort Belvedere, we offer 5 different sizes — Small, Medium, Large, Extra-large, and Extra Extra Large. This allows us to adequately cover the size ranges all the way from size 6 to size 15.

Length

Of course, if you look at the length difference, it is apparent. The more expensive $40 socks are the true over-the-calf sock that is below the knee and stays up all day comfortably. Over-the-calf socks are the gentlemen’s choice and at Fort Belvedere, we only offer that style, nothing mid-calf or shorter because they will just inevitably slide down and for me, it is really important to design a sock that stays up.

Colors

In our mind, the biggest advantage of a $40 socks compared to a $4 socks is their versatility. And I know most men don’t even think about that when they buy a pair of socks. Obviously, we love men’s style and we want you to look as good as possible.

Forty-dollar socks don’t just come in a much larger range of colors for you to choose from, but they typically also come in two different colors that are combined and the combination of that allows you to wear a single pair of socks with a multitude of outfits and pants and they will always look like it matches and works together versus a solid, plain color sock will always look off.

Two-tone socks from Fort Belvedere

Just think about navy, charcoal, or gray for a second which are the most popular business colors. They properly come in hundreds, maybe even in thousands of different shades. If you have two colors combined, for example, a navy blue and a lighter blue, you can wear it with any shade of navy that’s always gonna work. Another example is a kind of a grayish blue and a light blue combined, which can work with any type of gray pants, charcoal pants or navy pants that will always look good. That’s the true hidden power of two-tone socks that most men underestimate.

Two-tone socks also work with different colors, for example, these socks are actually a combination of purple and white, and there is something that I would call a faux solid because from afar, they look like a solid but if you look closer, they are actually made up of two colors. They can be worn with any kind of brown pants and they look great. They can be worn with denim or maybe with something in charcoal or with a pair of chinos. That’s true versatility. 

Compared to this pair of socks in brown, it just doesn’t work with gray. Yes, it somewhat works with a brown, yes it works with chinos, it doesn’t look that great with any blue or denim.

What Makes Fort Belvedere Socks Special?

In Fort Belvedere, we try to design our socks so you’ll get a large range of different colors in two-tone patterns that work with a multitude of outfits. You also won’t find rocket ships or pizzas on our socks and if you want to learn more about why crazy socks are overrated, please check out this video here.

Now, as you’ll imagine, a pair of $40 socks is made up of premium materials. For example, you can find silk, cashmere, or blends thereof. Even if socks are made up of cotton, not all cotton is alike. You can find cheaper cotton with shorter staple lengths or you can find higher-end cotton with a longer staple length that is twisted twice for consistency and longevity of the yarn and that way, you just end up with a sock that is much more comfortable because it is all made of natural fibers, not artificial fibers like nylon or polyester and that won’t insulate.

Fort Belvedere socks are hand finished in Italy

Fort Belvedere socks are hand finished in Italy

The reality is that just the raw material of a $40 socks costs more than the entire $4 socks. Because of that, you can make a yarn much thinner and knit a sock more finely. Of course, with a larger number of needles, it takes longer to make a pair of socks. However, the fine gauge knit of a high-end dress sock is always a hallmark because you will not be able to find any expensive sock that is fine as a high-quality sock.

Also, the machines used and the country of origin are typically different. All the $4 socks are made in China, Fort Belvedere socks are exclusively made in Italy of 100% natural fibers. And because there’s a tradition of craftsmanship and socks making in Italy, all the socks are finely finished by hand so there is no bulky seam at the toe that would provide any discomfort to you when you walk. Considering that cotton is absorbent and not as insulating as polyester, you will have just a much more pleasant experience walking around in your dress shoes throughout the day.

Is It Worth It to Pay 10x As Much?

Fort Belvedere offers volume discounts

Fort Belvedere offers volume discounts

Ultimately that is up for you to decide. In my book, it is definitely worth it, especially when you consider that you can buy a pair of 3, 6, or 12 socks and can bring the price down all the way to $30 per pair. That would allow you to get 12 different colors of socks, meaning, you’re basically equipped to handle any kind of situation with the right pair of socks.

It also makes travel easier because you can bring along a small amount of pair of socks and you don’t have to think about what color works exactly with it because you can be confident it’s gonna work out. 

Conclusion

Forty-dollar socks come in many sizes, the $4 socks come in very few or just 1 size. While the material of the cheaper socks won’t stand the test of time, the pilling will look bad and make you sweat, higher-end materials allow for thinner socks that look more elegant with your dress shoes and your fine outfit. They’re more breathable and overall more comfortable when you wear them.

Dinner jacket with black silk socks by Fort Belvedere and opera pumps aka court shoes

Sven Raphael Schneider wears a dinner jacket with black silk socks by Fort Belvedere and opera pumps

On top of that, $40 socks are true over-the-calf versus cheaper socks are mid-calf that cut off your circulation and just slide down top make you look unprofessional. Also, $4 socks are finished by machines in its toe area, making it less comfortable to wear them versus the $40 socks are finished by hand so you have a smooth result and don’t feel anything. Most importantly, while $4 socks usually come in colors of black, gray, brown, or khaki, $40 socks come in a range of 15 or 20 different colors especially in color combinations that allow you to really look your best without having to think about it very much.

Jackets & Jeans: Menswear Combinations for Blazers, Sport Coats & Denim

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Wearing a structured jacket with jeans is a look that many men try to pull off. However, they both have dressy and casual silhouettes, so how should you combine them into stylish and harmonious looks? In this guide, we’ll discuss how to best wear sport coats, blazers, and jeans as outfits and why those will work best for you.

Pairing Jackets and Jeans

There are very different situations where you might be able to wear sport coats and blazers with jeans. You can also look at the different times where you might have seen someone on a semi-casual occasion, perhaps a business meeting or even going out on a date. Time after time, we’ve seen men pull out this outfit but only a few do it well.

Often, we see men think that it’s acceptable to wear any kind of jacket with any pair of jeans; and that will make an acceptable outfit.

Jackets and Jeans Outfit Combinations

jacket is inherently much more dressy than jeans. Jeans always look much more casual. So, you might be wondering how to best pair those together. In certain situations, this might look appropriate. The main reasons why it would not look appropriate, are usually due to both fit and the overall formality of the combination.

In this guide, we’re going to assume that you already have a well-tailored blazer or sport coat, and some great fitting jeans.

What Jacket Hallmarks Should You Look Out For?

Blazers are not a one-size or one-style-for-all-situations item. When selecting details to pair with jeans, you’ll want to look for things that are going to casualize the jacket as much as possible.

Fabric Weight

You would want to look at fabric weights that are going to look a little bit warmer and less like a suit fabric. Fabric weight for your jacket or sport coat is available in a number of different densities depending on the season, how you’re wearing it, and what outfit you’re trying to put together. It’s important for both your temperature, but also for your appearance, that you pay attention to the overall breathability and the weight of the fabric you choose to wear for your jacket or sport coat.

You may check our Fabric Guide when choosing the best garment for your outfit.

Weather and Season

You also want to pay attention to the weather and what season you plan on wearing your sport coat; make sure that it seasonally matches and that you are comfortable. 

For example, in today’s video (and in Outfit #1 below), I’m wearing dark denim with a darker patterned mid-weight jacket; I can wear this at almost any season throughout the year. I’ve added the light sweater; it’s not super bulky, but it is able to be worn or an extra layering piece adds a little bit of color as well too. Mid-weight jackets are beneficial for a number of reasons, but I enjoy them because I’m able to wear them in almost any season throughout the year. In the summer months, you could try wearing a linen or a cotton jacket. This will be much more breathable, much more comfortable for you when it’s warmer outside.

Try Linen Jackets During Summer Months

And when it gets to be a little bit cooler outside, you could try wearing something that’s going to keep you insulated, perhaps a tweed jacket or something a little bit warmer. This will help the overall outfit to look much more cohesive in that season. 

Pockets and Lapels

Things like elbow patches or contrasting buttons are the different details that will help casualize the overall outfit with the jeans. In addition, you can also look for things like patch pockets and notch lapels that will help casualize the overall outfit with your sport coat and jeans combination.

Notched Lapels

Jacket Details To Avoid

Unnecessary Flamboyance

One of the easiest ways to know what to look for is to know what to avoid, and one of the first things we’ll cover in this regard is unnecessary flamboyance. 

Here at the Gentlemen’s Gazette, we certainly believe in you being able to express yourself and have a great time with your clothing, but we don’t want to cause an accident on the street! Unless the event you are attending calls for you to be able to wear a lot of extra flair, it’s usually best to operate with the philosophy of less is more.

Avoid unnecessary flamboyance

Overly flamboyant things that we’d want to avoid, for example, would be some really large, bold patterns; perhaps something like paisley; really bright neon colors; even something in really shiny fabric. It doesn’t really add that nice, polished look that you would want to see when you put together your blazer or sport coat and your jeans.

Excessive Patterns

Patterns in smaller doses are much more acceptable. With a lot of excessive patterns, you would run the risk of becoming much more visually confusing to people in your presence. So, you should avoid wearing things like a bold pinstripe that maybe looks like it’s missing its suit pants, and you should also avoid things like a fast-fashion floral print jacket or something with a metallic fabric to it.

This jacket’s pattern would be too bold to pair with jeans

Poor Fit

The next thing to avoid will be a poor fit in your jacket or sport coat. It’s important that you focus on the overall fit for your body type when selecting your jacket. Don’t get too confused looking at the quality of the fabric or the costs on the price tag, all of that doesn’t matter if it doesn’t fit appropriately. It will end up looking much more sloppy.

The goal is to casualize your jacket while elevating and dressing up your jeans, while still meeting in the middle so that things complement one another. Try to avoid different extremes that would make you look like you’re going to the boardroom or out to a club; that is not the purpose of this outfit.

How Should You Choose Your Jeans?

The goal here is to make sure that the jeans that we’re choosing to wear are going to look much dressier, as this is going to complement the jacket in general. So, what kind of cuts and details are you going to be looking for to be able to wear with your sport coat or blazer? 

Pay Attention to Your Body Type

You’re going to want to make sure that you are paying attention to your body type and finding something that fits you appropriately. There is a wide variety of details which you might be able to see regarding the jeans that you can choose to wear, and you can learn more about that from our guide here.

Match Your Jeans With Your Jacket

Once you’ve selected a fit that works best for your body type, it’s important to make sure that you find a sport coat or a blazer that complements the same style of denim you decide to wear. For example, in terms of fit, you don’t want to wear a slim fit jacket and really wide-cut jeans.

Pair your jacket with your dressiest jeans and brown shoes

The fit and formality of this jacket-and-jeans pairing is well executed

Denim Details to Avoid

In terms of the details on the jeans themselves, it’s important to remember that, again, less is more. Jeans, by nature, are going to look more casual, especially when you have things like whiskering or certain different types of embroidery. There are details on jeans that you would therefore want to avoid when selecting certain styles, to be able to match with your sport coat or blazer.

Distressed Jeans

Things that might signify a distressed jean would include heavy detailing, whiskering all over the leg, and holes in the knees. Things like these are not going to be something that you’ll want to wear with a sport coat or blazer. This is usually going to look much better when you’re out casually with a t-shirt, perhaps.

However, when we’re talking about jeans to be able to be worn with the blazer or sport coat, we’re usually not talking about distressed jeans.

An example of distressed jeans

Are there some people that are able to pull off a look of something with distressed jeans and sparkles and blazers?  Yes, but typically these people are looking for more of a trendy look, not necessarily a timeless look.

The whole point of having distressed jeans is to give a very lived-in look to your outfit. However, when you blend this more casual aspect of the outfit with a more professional sport coat or blazer, the entire outfit starts to look much more incomplete and disjointed. So, for a timeless look, remember, it’s best to skip the distressed denim when worn with a blazer or sport coat.

Dark Washed Jeans

A great example is what I’m wearing here. I’ve got a clean, dark-wash pair of jeans on with my blazer; no-frills, no whiskering on there at all, and it looks quite timeless.

Jeans That Are Too Tight

Another thing to avoid when trying this combination is jeans that are far too tight. There are some of us, like myself, who enjoy slim or tapered fit to their jeans, but the key is to make sure that you have got a fit that matches your body type, and that you’re finding something that ideally complements the overall look of your outfit.

Wear jeans that have a flattering fit.

Contrast Stitching

There are certain types of contrast stitching that are perfectly acceptable, and that will actually enhance the timelessness of your jeans, like the subtle yellow stitching you’ll commonly see on the seams of classic denim styles. However, we want to avoid the really loud, enhanced contrast stitching that you might see on more trendy jeans.

Avoid jeans with excessive contrast stitching

For example, we should avoid a contrast stitching that is really enhanced and ornate on the side seams of the jeans, and also on the back pockets of your jeans as well.

Jacket & Jeans Outfit Ideas

As we go through these outfits, we’re going to start out with the most formal option, and then work our way down to something a little bit more casual.

1. Professional & Casual

This is a timeless option that combines dark colors in a unique way, for a really polished and timeless look. This look combines wearing a dark-wash pair of jeans with leather dress boots and a neutral colored shirt, topped off with a navy jacket.

Navy Blazer with Cream Knit Long Sleeves, white dress shirt paired with dark wash denim jeans, black boots and Wine Red, Yellow, Blue, Green, Orange Silk Wool Medallion Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere.

Another option could also be a gray jacket with dark-wash jeans. The neutrality of the colors used in this example ensures that you’ll appear professional yet still casual. This would be ideal for a business trip, or a meeting over lunch with colleagues.

2. Smart Casual

This look combines the best of both aspects of sport coats, blazers, and jeans into a smart casual look. It features a medium-wash pair of jeans with a lightweight sweater and a small-patterned blazer.

Gray check blazer, dress shirt, pocket square, dark wash denim jeans, white sneakers

Similar options to use would be a dark-wash pair of jeans and a neutral-colored sport coat, with a small- to medium-size pattern, over on neutral sweater. Why this works is that the outfit combination plays with the contrast of both the sport coat and the jeans. From there, using a sweater or cardigan under the sport coat, this relaxes the entire outfit but still allows you to appear distinguished.

3. Casual

This outfit is made with a dark-wash pair of jeans and white leather sneakers, a bold colored double-breasted jacket, and a neutral-colored sweater over a patterned shirt.

You can also try swapping out your bold-colored double-breasted jacket for a more pattern blazer or sport coat. This is certainly the most casual outfit out of the three that we’ve discussed so far, and it allows you to combine a few different elements of style while still giving you a single outfit that works in many situations.

Olive Green Double Breasted Blazer, Navy Grid Shirt, Cream Knit Long Sleeves, Dark Washed Denim Pants, and White Sneakers

Conclusion

While pairing a blazer or sport coat with jeans seems like a very easy thing to do at first, it’s important to remember that if the formality or casualness of the ensemble is not working together, your overall outfit will look mismatched. Get a handle on the details we’ve discussed today, though, and you” be able to wear your jacket-and-jean ensembles in many different situations!

How do your pair your jackets with jeans? Share with us in the comments.

18 Movies Every Menswear Fan Should Watch: 1930s-1960s

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Films and TV shows starring stylish gentlemen and featuring iconic outfits are worth watching and for menswear fans, could be great inspiration for style! Today, we’ll discuss 18 movies every clotheshorse should watch from the 1930s through the 1960s.

18 Movies From 1930s to 1960s Every Menswear Fan Should Watch

Personally, I’ve got an ambiguous relationship with vintage movies. On the one hand, I find them usually super slow and painfully boring so I dread watching them. On the other hand, I really like the style aspects and so I watched it just for the men’s clothing. Most actors back then wear their own, mostly tailored clothes. So, it’s quite cool to see the actual style they had and how to just utilize it differently in different movies.

1. It Happened One Night (1934)

It Happened One Night is one of only three movies to win the Big 5 Oscars for Best Picture, Best Director, Best Actor, Best Actress, and Best Screenplay. The plot of the movie is basically that a rich socialite falls in love with a no-nonsense reporter. It’s a light romantic comedy but the wardrobe of Clark Gable is quite fascinating. The film is notable for showing Gable bare-chested, which according to legend, led to a drop in undershirt sales.

Clark Gable in It Happened One Night without and undershirt in 1934

Clark Gable in It Happened One Night without an undershirt in 1934

On a more personal note, what I really keep in mind from that movie is his very casual travel suit. Today, when people travel, they wear sweatpants, maybe a hoodie, but back in the day, you would have a comfortable suit in a softer fabric with nice, big patch pockets that would allow for a lot of storage. Particularly, his chest pocket is a rather large patch pocket which is not something you’ll see today especially not off the rack.

Clark Gable wearing a wide peaked lapel tweed suit

Clark Gable wearing a wide peaked lapel tweed suit

2. Top Hat (1935)

Frankly, we could have put any of the nine movies that Fred Astaire filmed with RKO in the ’30s on this list, but we chose Top Hat because as the title implies, you see top hats and White Tie outfits a lot. His full dress ensembles fit immaculately, especially when dancing and back then, tailors would specifically, adjust the sleeve pitch and the angle it was sewn on for dancers and artists who had to move their arms so it always looked great on screen. The other outfits are also quintessentially Astaire and they have a sense of a rumpled elegance.

Fred Astaire in a white tie ensemble

3. Casablanca (1942)

From the ’40s, you should definitely watch Casablanca. It is a noir drama that became really, really popular with people. It features Humphrey Bogart as Rigg Blaine, who was involved in love and World War II and personal sacrifices for the greater good.

Style-wise, Bogart’s ivory dinner jacket became instantly iconic and was, later on, used by James Bond and Indiana Jones. Likewise, Bogart’s scenes in a trench coat gave him the image that most people have of him in that movie, today. It also helped to really cement the trench coat into a garment piece that every man must-have.

Famous Casablanca Trench Coat Scene

Famous Casablanca Trench Coat Scene

Although we don’t have a single Bond movie on this list, you can learn more about James Bond’s style and how you can use his style rules in your wardrobe from this video here.

Sean Connery as James Bond wearing a white dinner jacket with a red carnation boutonniere

Sean Connery as James Bond wearing a white dinner jacket with a red carnation boutonniere

4. Blue Skies (1946) 

This movie pairs Fred Astaire and Bing Crosby together. Fortunately, this film is in color so you get a much better understanding of the different color schemes they used in their clothes. In this movie, you can also watch Astaire “Puttin’ on the Ritz” in his formal wear ensemble.

Fred Astaire dancing in white tie

Fred Astaire dancing in white tie

5. Singing in the Rain (1952)

From the ’50s, you definitely want to watch Singing in the Rain, which is considered to be the best musical film ever by many. The three main characters including Gene Kelly, sing and dance their way through the 1920s Hollywood silent movie eras to the “talkies.”

You can see Kelly wearing White Tie, Black Tie, sweaters, and a host of other stylish combinations, all of which he can dance in.

Gene Kelly in his Black Tie Ensemble

Gene Kelly in his Black Tie Ensemble

6. The Band Wagon (1953)

Another movie from the ’50s to check out is The Band Wagon, which is a musical of nearly as good quality as Sing in the Rain, but it’s just less acclaimed. Not only do you get to see more of Astaire’s formidable wardrobe, but you also get a glimpse at Jack Buchanan’s wardrobe who was a very stylish dresser himself.

As a side note, Astaire’s blue and gray ensemble towards the end of the movie was the direct inspiration for Michael Jackson in Smooth Criminal.

Fred Astaire - The Band Wagon

Fred Astaire – The Band Wagon

7. A Streetcar Named Desire (1951)

This movie starring Marlon Brando is a story of class conflict based on Tennessee Williams’ 1947 play. From a style perspective, it’s most notable for Brando wearing a t-shirt as outerwear because, at the time, that was strictly an undergarment. Legend has it that Brando wearing a t-shirt on-screen led to an increase in t-shirt sales and men started to wear it as a casual form of outerwear.

Marlon Brando in test shot for A Streetcar Named Desire wearing a sleeveless wife beater undershirt 1950

Marlon Brando in test shot for A Streetcar Named Desire wearing a sleeveless wife beater undershirt, 1950

8. Rebel Without a Cause (1955)

Just a few years later, Rebel Without a Cause starred James Dean and would catapult him to fame, especially among American teenagers. While the film opens with Dean wearing a suit, he’s best known for his red Harrington jacket paired with a t-shirt and a pair of jeans and engineer boots.

The confident exterior masking a sensitive interior that Dean brought to Rebel Without a Cause would influence musicians like Elvis Presley.

The confident exterior masking a sensitive interior that Dean brought to Rebel Without a Cause would influence musicians like Elvis Presley.

9. Funny Face (1957)

This next movie shows, once again, Astaire, but now in a more seasoned age. He wears much more casual combinations, not his typical White Tie outfits.

Fred Astaire wearing an OCBD shirt casually

Fred Astaire wearing an OCBD shirt casually

10. Silk Stockings (1957) 

In this next film, Astaire really shows us what a capsule wardrobe looks like, long before the term was coined. You see him combining his gray flannel trousers, as well as his navy blazer, with multiple different shirts, and ties. Last but not least, he dons a top hat with a white tie one more time.

Fred Astaire in a 3 piece suit and a fedora

American actor and dancer Fred Astaire in a three-piece suit with brogues and contrasting shoelaces

11. Vertigo (1958)

Vertigo, which was directed by the master of suspense Alfred Hitchcock in my opinion, is a really boring slow movie but the clothes by Jimmy Stewart really introduced a jet age into the mix. In our minds, the outfits he wears really resemble a subtle form of elegance, which I hope you can learn something from.

Jimmy Stewart in Vertigo

12. North by Northwest (1959)

In my opinion, a much better movie is North by Northwest starring Cary Grant and his famous gray flannel suit. A panel convened by GQ in 2006 concluded that it was the best suit in film history. Why? Well, he used it to run around and do everything you would expect people to do in a tracksuit these days, in fact, he looked a lot better.

So, who tailed this great garment? Some people say it was the Savile Row tailor Norton & Sons; others claim it was Quintino from Beverly Hills. Sadly, we shall never know, but in any case, you have to watch that movie simply because of its style and I promise you it’s more entertaining than many other old movies.

Cary Grant sunglasses in North by Northwest

Cary Grant sunglasses in North by Northwest

13. La Dolce Vita (1960)

To kick off the ’60s, let’s talk about La Dolce Vita and Marcello Mastroianni. While much of the visual focus of the film lies on Anika Ekberg, Mastroianni wears a bunch of great-looking suits. They certainly have a much more clean and minimalist approach, which is something a lot of men like these days do. Solids are paired with subtle patterns and nothing bold.

Marcello Mastroianni wearing the Persol 649

Marcello Mastroianni wearing the Persol 649 and a black suit ensemble

14. Robin and the 7 Hoods (1964)

Robin and the 7 Hoods is a mid-century musical that features the Rat Pack. While the wardrobe here does verge on being a bit too costumey, the 1960s take on the 20s is quite entertaining even if it’s a little bolder than it probably was at the time.

You may even see the Rat Pack commit some style faux pas, such as wearing a belt with a waistcoat. To learn more about the 50 Most Common Style Mistakes, you can get our free ebook. Of course, you can also see some nice outfits from Bing Crosby and Frank Sinatra, and we have a full style feature on him here.

The Rat Pack

15. Bonnie and Clyde (1967)

This movie with Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway is definitely one of the more entertaining movies in my mind. The wardrobe of the film is more 1930s influenced, with some suits having a more ’60s shape. Even though that’s not quite accurate for the period, the styles, the colors, and the patterns are quite fun to look at. Also, bees hats ranging from flat caps to Fedora are worth noting.

Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway in Bonnie and Clyde

Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway in Bonnie and Clyde

16. Bullitt (1968)

The film Bullitt features the king of cool Steve McQueen, and even though most people remember the film for its car chasing scene, it still has some interesting, more casual clothing items.

Steve McQueen with Bullitt's famous Mustang Fastback

Steve McQueen with Bullitt’s famous Mustang Fastback

17. The Thomas Crown Affair (1968)

Some consider the 1968 version of The Thomas Crown Affair to be the most stylish movie ever made. Personally, though, I have to tell you, I prefer the more modern version with Pierce Brosnan. McQueen’s outfits in this movie largely consist of three-piece suits, with a flat-bottomed waistcoat,  a watch chain, and most importantly, the Persol sunglasses.

Steve McQueen and Faye Dunaway on the set of The Thomas Crown Affair

Steve McQueen and Faye Dunaway on the set of The Thomas Crown Affair

18. The Damned (1969)

Last but not least, we have Luchino Visconti’s movie The Damned, which shows a range of formal wear and it’s supposed to emulate the German Krupp family and their empire. In this movie, you will not only see morning wear, Black Tie, and other outfits but also uniforms from the Nazis. This is definitely an avant-garde production to end this series today, but it’s going to be a nice transition to part two, so stay tuned.

The Damned

Have you seen these movies featuring stylish menswear? Which one is your favorite? Let us know in the comments.


How to Pair Belts & Shoes (and Your Metal Accessories)

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Using different colors, patterns, and textures are important parts of creating an outfit that looks great when paired together. A certain continuity of different elements on your outfit will help you look always well put together and interesting at the same time. Managing your different accents in your outfit is a sign of style mastery. The good thing is, it’s easy to learn.

How Should You Combine Your Shoes, Belt & Other Accessories?

When pairing shoes with a belt, obviously, the leather color is very important; but also the texture of the leather, and then to a certain extent, the metal buckle. Ideally, you want to match the color, the leather texture, as well as the metal color of the belt, and the shoe and other accessories you may have.

At first, it sounds easy, doesn’t it? But once you think about all the metal accessories, it’s a bit more tricky. Just think about cufflinks, for example, or the buckles on your Monk Straps, or maybe a briefcase, your watch, your collar pin, your tie bar, also think about watch chains, or laser buttons, rings, including your wedding band and last but not least, eyeglasses or sunglasses.

You can match your belt buckle with the metal on your watch and on your Monk Straps

You can match your belt buckle with the metal on your watch and on your Monk Straps

The Pre-Requisites

1. Put Your Garments Together

First and foremost, you want to start by putting the main components of your outfit together. By that, I mean your pants, your shirt, and your jacket.

2. Choose Your Soft Accessories

Soft accessories mean your pocket square, neckwear, and socks. If you want to learn how to combine pants, shoes, and socks so you look the part, check out this guide, and to get a better understanding of how a pocket square, a tie, or a bow tie, a shirt, and a jacket can work together, this guide can help you out.

You can start by putting the main components of your outfit together

Pairing Shoes, Leather & Metal Accessories

Once you’ve picked the main components, as well as your soft accessories, it’s time for the shoes. Once you’ve thought of a pair of shoes, choose the belt. Basically, you have to consider three components: the leather color, the leather texture, and the metal color.

shoes-leather-accessories-scaled.jpg

Match the color, the texture, and the metal color

1. Leather Colors

We recommend that you match the color of your shoes and your belt as closely as possible. Fortunately, because there’s a visual distance between your belt and your shoes, it doesn’t have to match 100%, it just has to be close, so visually, it appears to be the same. The more formal the occasion, the more important the color matching aspect becomes. That means if you have black monk straps with a silver buckle, you should match it with a black leather belt and a silver buckle. Obviously, matching a black pair of shoes with a black belt is fairly easy because black doesn’t come in any other shades.

If you look at other colors such as brown, blue, or green, it becomes a lot more difficult. Why? Well, just look at brown. It comes in hundreds, if not,  thousands of different shades, and matching them exactly between your shoes and your belts is virtually impossible unless you bought them at the same time when the belt and the shoes are made from the same leather.

Burgundy leather shoes and burgundy leather belt

So, wearing black shoes with a brown belt or brown shoes with a black belt is a combination that should be avoided at all costs. To many,  that may seem fairly obvious, but what about if you have brown shoes and maybe a tan belt? Can you combine that? Again, you want the tones to be as close as possible but you have a bit of leeway because of the visual gap between the belt and your shoes. For example, a burgundy belt that has a slightly different color than burgundy shoes, but when worn on an outfit, it looks very harmonious and well put together.

Match your belt with your shoes

2. Leather Textures

Ideally, you want the texture to match. If you have a belt that is a box calf leather and a Scotch grain belt, the textures are not the same, but fairly similar. If you have a brown leather belt and suede shoes, the textures are more different. The problem with brown suede shoes is that finding a belt that has the same color and the same texture is highly unlikely unless you have hundreds of belts in your wardrobe. In those cases, it is more important for you to match the color as closely as possible than the texture. That could mean one is suede and the other one is a regular leather or a Scotch grain leather but similar color-wise, which people won’t really notice from afar.

Most people will look at your belt from two feet away. So, in a nutshell, dark brown suede shoes with a dark brown box calf or Scotch grain leather are better than having dark brown suede shoes with a tan suede belt. Of course, if you have suede dark green shoes and a suede dark green belt, that’s perfect. For that reason, if you buy a new pair of suede shoes or something with an unusual texture or color, try to think about your belt option at the same time; so maybe you can get a belt from the same maker because otherwise, it will be very difficult to pair and match it.

umatching-belt-shoes

Match the texture of your shoes with your belts

The less formal your combinations become, the more leeway you have in terms of color and texture matching. For example, Preston often wears a tie as a belt which is something he picked up from Fred Astaire, on top of that, he’s such a slim guy that he has issues finding a belt that actually fits his slim waist. Tough life, right?

So, what exactly does a less formal combination look like? Well, let’s say you have a pair of brown boat shoes that you wear with slacks. You can wear it with a brown woven belt, maybe even with fabric accents or even have a two-tone pair of navy and dark red boat shoes, you can pair it with salmon-red chinos and a navy belt. Another example would be if you have yellow shoes you can wear a madras belt with it because it makes the whole combination more casual, summery, and relaxed-looking.

You can match your yellow boat shoes with a madras belt for a more casual look

If you have two-tone shoes or shoes with more than one color, it gives you more options because you can pair the color of your belt with either that of the shoe; both will work. Traditionally, I think people would wear a brown and white Oxford more with a brown belt, but if you have a white belt, that works too. The white belt is a little more contrasting and flashy, so you could weigh your options there.

Brown and white Oxford shoes and a brown leather belt

3. Metal Colors

Now that we got leather color and texture squared away, let’s look at how to match the colors of the metal properly. Typically, with more formal outfits, you have a more reduced color palette and because of that, matching the colors exactly of your metal accessories become more important. 

In an ideal world, all the metal accessories should have identical metal shade and color. That means if you have a yellow gold buckle, you want yellow gold cufflinks, a yellow gold watch, and a yellow gold tie bar or collar clip; and if you have silver platinum or white gold buckle, that means white gold cufflinks, silver watch, silver shoe buckles, or maybe briefcase buckles. If you want to take it even a step further, you can have a rose gold buckle, and wear it with rose gold cufflinks and maybe a rose gold collar clip or a pinky ring.

rose-gold-tie-bar-cuff-links-scaled.jpg

Rose Gold Tie Bar and Rose Gold Cufflinks

Where Should Metal Matching Start?

The answer here is, ideally, with your belt buckle. Why? Because you already had to match it to your shoes in color and texture, and chances that you have all your belts in the same color and texture in gold and in silver and rose gold is extremely slim.

Even if you start with your belt buckle and you maybe have a briefcase or a portfolio, chances are, you don’t have those in all the different leather colors and metal colors as well. For example, personally, I have a gold wedding band so even if I have silver accessories, I’m not going to take off my wedding band and I’ll just keep wearing it.

You can start pairing your metal accessories with your belt buckle

The more accessories you add into your outfit, the higher the chances that you can’t match all the metal shades. It’s just important that you’re aware of it and try to match it where you can. If it doesn’t always work out, don’t worry, just own it and wear it with confidence.

Burgundy bag and burgundy shoes with matching gold buckles

Solving The Belt Buckle Problem

I’m a clotheshorse; I have many shoes and many matching belts in color, but I often have difficulties matching the metal shades. Honestly, it really frustrates me because basically, it would mean I need every belt with a silver buckle and every belt with a gold buckle which means, I need tons of belts – which costs a lot of money, and if I gain a little bit of weight, I may have to sell them all again and start all over again. When I travel, I have to bring 15 belts to make it all work, so it’s just expensive, impractical, and really frustrating.

So, I thought about it and was like, well, if I could just combine any buckle I owned with any belt, I could have a very small capsule wardrobe where both belts and buckles that would basically give me all the combinations that I would ever need. I knew there were belt systems like that out there, but when I looked at the leather quality, I was disappointed. I didn’t want to wear it and the buckles are made of cheap, zamak material and it was just overall nothing that would work with a high-end suit, a bespoke garment, or just for someone who cares about their clothes.

Belts

I wanted a belt system that looked like a regular high-quality belt with fine, craftsmanship details and high-quality buckles that I could wear for years or decades to come. You’re probably not surprised, but we decided to just create it ourselves.

The Fort Belvedere Belt System

Of course, we started with the best leathers. We decided on a Fort Belvedere green Saffiano leather lining because it has the right creases for something that will always be bent on the outside. We used really fine German aniline-dyed box calf leathers. It’s leather-lined, we use very high-quality stitching, the belts are handmade in Portugal from Italian and German leather. 

The real aspect we really paid attention to was the heavy painting of our buckles so they don’t tarnish or show wear over time. Most of the other belt buckles I’ve had looked pretty crappy a year in, and I definitely did not want them to happen with the Fort Belvedere buckles.

Our buckles are heavily painted so they don’t tarnish or show wear over time.

We start with five colors in box calf and different buckles in platinum and yellow gold. We’ll add different colored buckles, different styles, and more belts in the future so you can build the belt system that works best for you and your shoe wardrobe.

Another big advantage of the belt system is that you can cut the belt to size so it works for you and even if you lose a little weight, it’s not going to be a problem. There’s also enough holes and it will still work when you gain a little weight; and because you can exchange all the buckles, you’re extremely flexible.

If you’re interested in the Fort Belvedere belt system, head over to our website where you can see the full selections and the videos; how it works, and how you cut it to size, as well as the benefits over other belts and belt systems.

Fort Belvedere Belt System

Conclusion

Distinguished gentlemen can benefit from the smart techniques of matching shoes with a proper belt and other accessories to create a harmonious, dapper look. And because belts are the larger, more prominent leather and metal accessory in an outfit, investing in a versatile and modular collection can greatly improve your whole appearance, in a cost-effective way in the long run.

How to Write with a Fountain Pen

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In the U.S., writing with a fountain pen is not something that you learn in school (unlike in other countries, especially in Europe), but many people find that they enjoy writing with a fountain pen much more than with a ballpoint pen or any other kind of pen because it’s more deliberate and intentional. Here’s our guide on how to do it!

Using A Fountain Pen Is A Special Writing Experience

These days with technology and innovation, we don’t even need to write by hand anymore, but we can just send messages or emails through our cell phones or laptops. However, a handwritten note can really convey that you really care about the recipient and they feel much more valued, than if you sent them a digital communication.

Even though you can use a ballpoint pen or a roller-ball, using a fountain pen gives you that unique character to your handwriting that can’t be replicated by anyone else. Why is that? A fountain pen has a metal nib with two tines, and you can control the thickness of the line by applying more or less pressure. Forging a nib is an art of its own, and the higher-end ones are made out of 18-karat or even higher karat degrees of gold. For example,  all Mont Blanc Meisterstück pens come with a solid gold nib (contributing to their price tag).

Handwritten notes are more meaningful when written by hand with a nice fountain pen

Personal notes are more meaningful when written by hand with a nice fountain pen

In general, prices for fountain pens can range from very few dollars to thousands of dollars. To learn more about inexpensive fountain pens and mid-range fountain pens check out our guides! Now, if a fountain pen is more expensive than a ballpoint pen or a rollerball, why would you want to invest in one? Well, the connoisseur appreciates the personality added to his penmanship, and it’s just a very different writing experience.

The look of the pen may underline your personality; the way it feels and writes are also potential attributes that you won’t find in other writing instruments. So, if you’re ready to give writing with a fountain pen a try, read on to find out how to choose a fountain pen that’s best for you, how to use it, and how to write with it so it brings you joy.

A Montblanc Meisterstuck 149 aka The Diplomat

A Montblanc Meisterstuck 149 aka The Diplomat

Choosing Your Fountain Pen

1. Size

A fountain pen is a very personal instrument and it’s supposed to be perfect for your hand; if you have a big hand, get a bigger fountain pen. If you have a smaller hand, get a smaller one. When in doubt, it should never be too short and rather be a little longer, but you also want to pay attention to the width. When you hold it and if the pen is too wide,  it may be uncomfortable to write with it. Frankly, there’s no clear-cut answer for it, you simply have to try different ones, and different widths and lengths to figure out what feels comfortable in your hand.

Choose the size according to what best suits your hand

2. Weight

The second thing to pay attention to is the weight. In general, we often associate weight with something luxurious that is really full of craftsmanship. For fountain pens, that may be really nice if you just want one to sign something, but if you want it to write into letters that are pages long, you want something that is not too heavy, otherwise, your hand will tire out more quickly.

Again, figuring out whether something is too light or too heavy, also depends a bit on your personal preference; so I urge you to try different fountain pens at a store or something that is sent to you but always get a selection, so you can make sure you find something that really works for you. And don’t just settle for the first fountain pen you come across. Likewise, just because it’s expensive and a recognizable brand name doesn’t mean it’s best for you and your hand and your needs.

Choose the weight according to your preference

3. Filling Mechanism

To write with the fountain pen, you need ink and it is typically found in a little cartridge inside the fountain pen. They’re basically small, disposable plastic tubes that hold the ink and they’re widely available. Yet, finding different colors can be a bit more tricky. Some brands also design their cartridges so you can only buy proprietary ones, which limits you in the choices of ink and it’s also more expensive, the longer you have the fountain pen.

Because of that, many people switch to a converter which is basically another plastic tube with a little mechanism so you can manually add ink to it and therefore, you open up the whole range of inks on the market. It’s also much less expensive, less harsh on the environment, and overall the more sensible choice.

Refilling ink with a converter mechanism

A more old-school way to re-ink a fountain pen is a piston mechanism. Typically, you just turn the spindle of the fountain pen which pushes a piston back and forth. It creates a low-pressure environment that sucks in the ink inside the fountain pen. When you do that, always make sure there’s a little bit of air left inside the piston, otherwise the ink flow may not be as smooth and nice as you want it to be.

In my opinion, it’s much more elegant than using cartridges or a converter and it’s my fountain pen mechanism of choice. In the early days of fountain pens, you could also find models with a lever and an ink-sac inside or some push-button mechanisms, but none of them have stood the test of time. And today the piston, the converter, and the cartridges are basically the options you have.

Piston mechanism for a fountain pen

4. Nib

Material

First of all, the material can be important and of course, the workmanship of the nib and how refined it is. Generally, the softer and more flexible the nib is, the better. While steel nibs are rather smooth and very economical, higher-end fountain pens typically come with gold or palladium nibs. Whatever the case, they’ll almost always have an Iridium-tipped point which hardens it because that’s where the nib touches the paper. Of course, gold and palladium tips are also much more expensive than more economical steel or other metal nibs.

Various fountain pen nibs

Various fountain pen nibs

Size & Tip

On top of that, the size of the nib itself is also important; the larger the nib, typically, the nicer it is to write with it. Because of that, the most expensive fountain pens typically have larger nibs than less expensive fountain pens. Again, if you need twice as much gold for a nib for a big one, it gets even more expensive. The one thing even more important than the nib size is the tip of the nib, because that’s what you write with. These days you find extra-fine, fine, medium, broad, and very broad nibs; they’re often abbreviated as F, EF, M, B, and BB. 

One hundred years ago, fountain pen manufacturers would offer 50 different kinds of nibs including extra, extra fine, and extra broad. They also had stub nibs and oblique nibs that were slightly cut and angled just to get a different look. If you’re just starting out or if you’re a lefty, I suggest going with a fine nib or maybe a medium nib; this will give you greater flexibility and make it easier to write with it. Of course, you should always nibs in various widths if you’re able, so you can better understand how they look and feel differently.

Nib-comparison across the surface of paper.

Nib-comparison across the surface of paper. (Photo: The Goulet Pen Company)

In general, if you have a big hand and big handwriting, a slightly broader nib may look more appealing. On the flip side, if you like an elegant look and you have small handwriting, an extra-fine tip may be the right one for you. In calligraphy, stub or italic nibs are very popular.  Personally, I like really wide nibs for signatures because they give it a unique look that is very hard to fake. So, for signatures, I typically use an oblique 3B nib, which is a triple width and it’s very wide. I wouldn’t want to write letters with it though, because it’s uncomfortable.

Medium-sized nibs are the most common standard sizes and I like my handwriting to look a little different, so when I write longer letters, I typically go with something extra fine. That being said, I’m a big fan of flexible nibs that allow me to create a very fine, thin line if I apply less pressure and a much wider line if I apply more pressure. Oftentimes, vintage fountain pens have much more flexible nibs than modern fountain pens; so if you like the variation in your stroke, maybe you have to look into vintage fountain pens first.

Fountain pen nib samples

Fountain pen nib samples

Writing With A Fountain Pen

1. Use A High-Quality Paper

Many regular printer papers are not really suited for fountain pen ink because as soon as you write on them, the ink bleeds and looks very bad. Instead, buy a paper that is made for fountain pens and when you write on it, it will look beautiful. The same is true for stationary if you want to write greeting cards — make sure it works with a fountain pen. A good paper doesn’t feather or run and it is often made out of cotton; so before you buy a paper, ask specifically if it’s meant to be written on with fountain pens or buy from a source that supplies them and advertises them as fountain pen paper.

Fountain pen paper

Fountain pen paper

The broader your nib, the more ink will transport onto the paper and the longer it takes to dry. So if you write with a fountain pen and you touch it with your hand, you may smudge it and it will look terrible. To prevent that you have to either let it dry or use an ink blotter. If you want to get ahead quickly, and of course, always be aware that you can smudge the ink.

Ink Blotter for Fountain Pens

An example of an ink blotter for use with fountain pens

2. Post The Cap (Or Don’t)

Typically fountain pens come with a cap, and some people like to “post” the cap on the back part of the fountain pen because that creates a different balance. Personally, I have larger hands, and like larger fountain pens and posting a cap on top is not really necessary, and it creates a weird balance for me. So, I typically don’t do it with my fountain pens.

Some fountain pens, however, especially smaller ones are designed to have a cap posted in the back for the perfect balance. Again, this is something you have to try out yourself and see what kind of feel you like. On vintage fountain pens, I’ve often seen a cap crack, probably because it was posted too often and too aggressively. So, personally, that’s another reason why I don’t do it. The fountain pen I use for signatures is actually in a stand on my desk and the cap is mounted to the stand so I couldn’t even have the opportunity to post a cap on it.

Some people would post the cap at the back of the pen to create a different balance.

3. Hold The Pen at The Correct Angle

When you write with a fountain pen, it’s essential that you keep it at the right angle, and that you’re not flexible with your fingers. So, what exactly does it mean? If the tip of your nib is facing down on the paper and the slit is facing up, it should have a net angle of about 45 to 55 degrees. Once with that angle, write a few words to find that “sweet spot” for you that feels comfortable writing.

If you angle your nib above 55 degrees or below 45 degrees, it won’t write as nicely, it won’t be as smooth, and the ink won’t be transported as well onto the paper, and it’s just weird, it also sounds strange and scratchy. You also want to avoid twisting the pen because the tines should be in touch with a paper at times, otherwise, the ink won’t flow. 

Your nib should have a net angle of about 45 to 55 degrees. [Pocket Square: Straw Yellow Silk in Egyptian Scarab Pattern from Fort Belvedere]

4. Keep Your Hand Rigid

A really important distinction of writing with a fountain pen from writing with a roller-ball or ballpoint pen is that you have to keep your hand rather rigid. What do we mean by that? Well, some people are finger writers and they move their hand and their fingers as they write. With a round ballpoint pen that is okay because it works in every angle but with a fountain pen with a straight nib, that is not the case.

So, once you have the right angle with your fingers, you shouldn’t really adjust your wrist; it should just stay rigid, so you just keep on writing. Yes, there can be a little bit of movement, but you’ll figure out at what point in time it’s too much movement and the pen won’t write anymore. As a general rule, your arm and your shoulder will do more of the work than your wrist. Honestly, it sounds more difficult than it is, if you just try it a few times you’ll get the hang of it pretty quickly.

Keep your hands rigid when writing with a fountain pen; moving your hands and fingers as you write only works well with ballpoint pens

5. Apply The Right Pressure

Last but not least, you have to learn how to apply the right amount of pressure onto your nib. As the tip of the nib touches the paper, just apply gentle pressure and you’ll feel how the ink flows out. Please don’t press hard on it because it may damage your nib as well as the paper. Also, it means that you’ll get a lot more ink out of the nib and just not a good look, you’ll likely smudge it.

Pushing too hard may damage the nib

Pushing too hard may damage the nib

Can Lefties Write with A Fountain Pen?

Back in the old days, people who were lefties had to actually learn how to write with their right hand because it was the “proper” way to do it. In this day and age, children learn how to write with their left hand; it just requires a different positioning for their hand, so they don’t smudge the writing because it goes from left to right.

Personally, I’m right-handed, so I can’t speak from experience, but I know that lefties have found a way to hold it in a proper way so you don’t smudge your writing. If you are a lefty, I suggest you get a fine, medium nib because it allows for greater angle variation. Then, of course, you have to practice and I suggest you Google for a video for a lefty who shows you how to do it because my left-hand writing would not be a good example!

People who were lefties (like US President Harry Truman) had to actually learn how to write with their right hand back in the old days

Fountain Pen Care Tips

So, now that you know how you choose the right fountain pen for your hand and how you write with it, what else do you need to keep in mind?

1. Keep The Cap On

You should always keep the cap on top of the nib when you don’t write with the fountain pen. Why? Well, if you don’t, it dries out and you’ll have a hard time actually starting to write the next time around. Also, your nib may get damaged, so unlike with a ballpoint pen, you always want to put the cap and cover your nib. 

Always keep the cap on when not in use

2. Clean Your Fountain Pen Regularly

A fountain pen needs a bit more maintenance which means it has to be cleaned regularly. While some people suggest cleaning your fountain pen every two months, I personally do it once every couple of years. Ultimately, it depends on how often and frequently you use it and if it looks dirty and it doesn’t write properly, it’s time for a clean.

To do it, I suggest you hold your fountain pen under running water, you can also put it in a glass of water, let it soak and you can exchange the water until you don’t see any more ink color. A much faster way to clean your fountain pen is to use an ultrasonic cleaner, but that may be too costly if you just have one fountain pen. Ideally, you take all the parts apart, wash them individually, and let them dry gently on a cloth towel, for example, so you make sure there’s no water in the ink reservoir, otherwise, when you write and there’s higher water content, your ink won’t look as strong and it’s also more likely to bleed.

Clean your pen regularly

3. Keep It Away From Extreme Temperatures

Avoid exposing your pen with the ink to extremely cold temperatures because it may freeze or you shouldn’t just let it sit in the attic where it gets really hot because the ink can also dry in and then cleaning it may take a much longer time.

That being said, there are certain things that have a certain stabilizer added that is supposed to keep them from drying in but that goes only so far. If you expose the ink to extreme temperatures, it will dry out. If you live in an extremely cold environment, you can also try Noodlers Polar Ink which is freeze-resistant. Personally, I like the inks from Montblanc because they have nice colors and it doesn’t dry and even if I don’t use the fountain pen for a while. So what are the ideal conditions for ink storage? I’d say, I’d rather have the cool room temperature, darkest spot.

Keep your pens away from extreme temperatures

Should You (or Should You Not) Lend Your Fountain Pen?

One hotly debated item is if you should lend your fountain pen to someone else. Some people argue that giving your fountain pen to someone else means the whole dynamic of your fountain pen that took several weeks to achieve will disappear because someone else holds the fountain pen slightly different than you do. Others think that it doesn’t matter if someone else takes a quick note with it. At the end of the day, it’s something for you to decide, and you can see and feel how long it takes to write in your fountain pen until it feels like it is your fountain pen.

Conclusion

While writing well with a fountain pen is a skill that will take time and practice to master, the results are second to none. If you’ve decided to take the plunge but are wary of potential difficulties, take a look at our guide on common fountain pen mistakes and how to avoid them, and you’ll be writing confidently in no time!

Do you write with a fountain pen? How are you liking the experience? Let us know in the comments!

11 Things You Can Do at Home to Improve Your Wardrobe

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More often than not, it’s hard to imagine improving your wardrobe without spending money and it’s easier to think about just going out to shop for something new. However, there are a number of things that you can do at home to really improve your wardrobe and it’s easy on your wallet, too. 

At-Home Wardrobe Improvement Techniques

1. Figure Out Your Personal Style Values

What does this mean exactly? Well, have you ever bought something that you regretted after the fact? I certainly have, and I’ve listed them down what they are and why, here. Regrettable purchases often clog up one’s wardrobe and it prevents you from building a wardrobe that reflects your personal style and your values. 

Your values may be different from my values. Maybe you want things to be inexpensive, or you value that you don’t have to think much about them, or you want something that is really long-lasting.

Cashmere socks vs OTC socks

Fort Belvedere socks (right) are a better value than cheap socks (left), as they stay up on the leg and will prove more durable over time.

My Personal Style Values

Intentional Purchase

When I grew up, basically, my family bought everything that was on sale or when there was a deal to be had and naturally, that rubbed off on me. So, when I started out, everything I bought was on sale and the higher the discount the better it was. The problem of that approach is that you end up with things that you would have never dreamed of buying and you just added them because they were cheap but you wear them very rarely or never and so the cost per wear is extremely high which is bad. On the flip side, if I force myself to be deliberate and look for something that I know I will get a lot of use out of, the cost per wear goes down and that’s a good thing, which transitions nicely to my next value.

Good Value

As I mentioned, growing up, I didn’t have much money and to this day, I value a good ratio between quality and price. Now, at the end of the day, quality trumps value in my book but nevertheless, you can often try to find brands or things that have a relatively high value for a relatively low price.

50% Suit sale

Don’t be taken in by a flashy sale offer; unless the garments are of high quality, no discount will be worth it!

Longevity

When I buy something, I want it to not look shabby after a few years and I want to be able to wear it for a long period of time. I have some things that have lasted for at least a decade and over, which I’ve discussed more in this list.

Raphael Prototype with Fort Belvedere Wallets New

Raphael’s prototype wallet alongside current models available from Fort Belvedere

Classic Look

I could wear a tie or a sweater or a jacket for 10 or 20 years if they have a style that is grounded and classic and that works for me. If I got something too fashionable, I may look trendy at the moment but 10 years down the line, I look at it and think, Oh my god! What was I thinking?

Raphael's White suit

Raphael as a young man in a white suit with a Mao collar–trendy at the time, not so impressive today!

How To Figure Out Your Values

 

Pull out the things that you don’t wear or you hate

Ask yourself: Why do I not wear this? And be honest with yourself and in the beginning, that may be hard because you just think you don’t have the right occasion but ask again until you get clarity but why you’re not wearing this piece.

Worn Shirt Throw Away Teresa

Teresa sometimes gets fed up with how many old and fraying items Raphael keeps in his wardrobe

Pull out the pieces you love

On the other hand, pull out your most favorite clothing pieces and ask yourself: Why do I like wearing it? Why do I wear it so often? What makes this piece a great addition to my wardrobe? If you do this exercise properly, you end up with actual values that work for you, and that are truly a reflection of what’s important to you and why you end up wearing something.

Write your values down

Maybe on a checklist on your phone or on a piece of paper, whatever works for you. But the next time you go shopping, bring those values with you, and before you buy it, make sure you answer all of those questions that came up so you make sure it reflects your values.

Writing your values down can play an important role in decision making

Also, be honest. If you want to wear something because you want to impress others or you want them to say, “Wow,” or you want them to think that you have a lot of money, then be honest to yourself. Write those down and check it fulfills those criteria. It’s always easy to be a little idealistic and tell yourself that you do something for a different reason but the more true you are to yourself in this exercise, the better and the happier you will be once you buy something in the future.

2. Come Up With New Combinations

Gray and brown combination with Fort Belvedere accessories

Gray and brown combination with Fort Belvedere accessories

Another thing you can do is to get more use out of the things you already have by coming up with new combinations that you might not have thought about beforehand. If you’re anything like me, sometimes you put together an outfit not because it’s the best possible look but just because you could find the ingredients that were on top of the pile. Not only could it be very limiting simply because of the small number of items, but you also may resort to putting and comparing the same things together over and over again.

So, when you have some time on your hands, you can actually think about outfits, put them together so when you’re in a rush you already know what to wear and what looks good together. Ideally, start with pieces that you do like but that you don’t wear very often. They’re already in your closet, they don’t cost you any additional money but there are ways to incorporate them into your outfits.

Practice matching everything that you have by holding them together.

It’s important to visually hold things together so you actually see what it looks like. Sometimes at first glance, you might not think it will work but force yourself to do it and then take a picture of the combination so you can visually remember it and they have an archive and you can easily come back to it when you are in a rush or in a moment where you can’t really recall what you’d put together that you liked back then.

3. Identify Your Stylistic Weakness & Tackle It

Everyone has an Achilles’ heel in their wardrobe. For example, for me, it’s the fact that my wardrobes are split out between a studio and my personal closet. Then sometimes, things just end up on a pile and I put together things that are just available to me right then if I have to rush out the door.

Preston in the process of tidying up his closet

Preston in the process of tidying up and organizing Raphael’s closet

Of course, the best solution to that problem would be a gigantic walk-in closet where all of my ties would be visible to me, all of my accessories, all of my shirts, all my shoes but sometimes that’s not a reality. We had planned to do a closet project, but now it’s on hold and we’ll just have to make do with what we have. However, for me, that means I could just regularly go through my wardrobe, see what I have, and don’t just put things on a pile but actually put them away so I can see what I have and combine it when I need it.

4. Hand-Wash Your Sweaters

This applies especially to your wool and cashmere sweaters or cardigans. Fortunately, with the advancement of washing machines, hand washing isn’t entirely necessary anymore but if you want to learn more about the topic, check out this in-depth video below. It’s part of a whole series on clothes maintenance and I’m sure you’ll enjoy it.

Laying Out Wool Sweater Drying Rack

In an ideal world, you’d wear a sweater once and have your valet take care of it, clean it, wash it, and store it in your closet. Unfortunately, that’s not a reality for most of us. So, if you take care of your sweaters and how you wear them, let’s say, with a dress shirt underneath them, you may have to only wash them once or twice a season. If you’re at home with lots of time on your hands, now is a good time to start taking care of your wardrobe.

5. Properly Store & Rotate Off-Season Wardrobe

Sadly, most of us don’t have closets that are so large they can have their entire wardrobe at their disposal, at all points in time. Because of that, most people will have to resort to switching between the current season and the off-season. That means you have to probably store away your off-season garments in garment bags and put them, let’s say, in the attic and maybe not in the basement because otherwise, they may smell dusty. But of course, it depends entirely on your situation and where exactly you live and what the conditions are there.

When the seasons start to change, our wardrobe changes as well.

So, why do you store your off-season clothes away? Ideally, you want to see everything that’s at your disposal that is currently appropriate for the season without being distracted by all the stuff that you can’t wear anyway.

6. Dust Off Your Outerwear With A Brush

While you’re rotating the seasonal wardrobe and storing away everything in nice garment bags, a clothes brush will really help you to elongate the lifespan of your garments. Why? Over time even if things hang in your closet, they get dusty and dust together with other stuff can be really hard on your clothes. By dusting them off, you will not only ensure that they don’t smell bad, but they will also last longer. On top of that, it saves you money because you won’t have to bring your clothes to the dry cleaner as often, which costs money and also shortens the lifespan of your garments. It’s a win-win.

Use a real clothes brush and forget the hacks

Use a real clothes brush and forget the hacks

So, what about the lint rollers with disposable tape? I strongly advise you not to use those because of the tape, they pull out loose fibers and you’re much more prone to end up with pilling. They’re also much more expensive because it’s a disposable item versus a quality clothes brush is something that you buy once in your lifetime; it will just last and serve you well. While a lint roller just gets the dust off the top of your garment, a brush really helps to more deeply remove the dust from your blazers, jackets, and overcoats.

Use the clothes brush correctly to efficiently and effectively remove dust, dirt, and not damaging your garment.

7. Learn How To Make Small Repairs Yourself

Of course, you could bring them to the alterations tailor but then you have to go there and pay them. If you just have time at home and you’re watching a movie maybe, you want to learn how to sew on a button, for example. Even if you don’t think you have a threat or needle or the right tools, maybe you’ve come across a travel sewing kit which is often available on airplanes or at hotels. Maybe one of your garments has a little hole and if you fix it while it’s still small, it won’t become big. 

Have a sewing kit on standby in case you need to repair your garment

8. Iron All Of Your Shirts

That’s particularly true if you store them hanging on hangers but even if you fold them, having a nice, crisp shirt that’s already ironed will save you time in the morning so whatever you put it on normally and it will just be very satisfying. I know some people hate ironing and others love it, but even if you hate it, if you do it during a time where you wouldn’t do anything otherwise, it’s productive. It’s a great way to get ironed shirts.

iron the back side of your shirt placket first

Iron the backside of your shirt placket first

You can turn on a podcast or maybe put up your computer and watch some Netflix because nothing makes you as prepared for the world is a freshly ironed shirt. Of course, once you’re done with your shirts, you can also move on to your pants and your slacks as well as your jackets and we created an in-depth series where we show you step by step how to iron a shirt, how to iron a jacket, as well as pants.

9. Sort Out The Clothes That Need Alterations or Major Repairs

We inevitably end up with garments in our wardrobe that are maybe stained, have major damage, or just a little too big or a little too small and we have to take care of them so we can wear them the next time. The problem is, it’s very easy to forget about that and the next time you reach for it, you may not think that there is a big stain on your jacket, for example, so you put it on and you walk out the door; then, it’s just embarrassing.

Sorting will help ensure you are always ready.

Also, when you’re packing for a trip and you’re putting together your wardrobe and you realize, “Oh, I wanted to have that fixed or altered, but now I’m in a time crunch and that can’t bring it along because it’s too late.” That’s always a bummer. The most economical way to deal with it is to just create a pile with all the items that need to go to the dry cleaner, all the items that need to be fixed or altered, and then go in one run. Oftentimes, your tailor may even give you a discount because you bring a bunch of things at the same time and you save yourself the cost of a trip every time back and forth.

10. Polish Your Shoe Collection

If you want some good tutorials, head over to our friend Preston Soto from the Elegant Oxford, he has some really great tutorials on how to shine your shoes and make him look like new or like an entirely different pair again.

Shoe Polish

Shoe Polish and a brush–two essential supplies

11. Invest In Wardrobe Maintenance Tools

Last but not the least, maintaining your wardrobe not only takes time but often also tools so think about what you need, and to get some inspiration, you can check out our posts on wardrobe maintenance essential tools.

Wardrobe Maintenance Essentials

Wardrobe Maintenance Essentials

Have you got your own secrets to inexpensive wardrobe improvement techniques? Share them in the comments section!

10 TV Shows Every Menswear Fan Should Watch

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Often, TV shows focus on women but if you take a closer look at the men’s style can be quite interesting and it’s often used to define characters and underline their authority or just underline certain quirks they have.

On TV, as in real life, clothes speak volumes about who you are as a person and it’s very interesting to see how it’s utilized. Of course, you’d also get some inspiration for yourself. In my opinion, all these shows are good and they’re worth watching but the clothes are really the icing on the cake.

TV Shows For Menswear Fans

No, we don’t have shows from the ’70s, ’80s, or ’90s because their styling was just too heavily influenced to be considered classic in this day and age. Instead, we picked shows that we hope you can learn from and implement items from into your everyday wardrobe.

1. Babylon Berlin

It’s one of our most favorite recent shows and it first aired in 2017 and is now in its second or third season because they split things up in Germany and the US differently. It’s set in Berlin, Germany of 1929 which was the Weimar Republic or the post-World War I period. It was very difficult in Germany because of economic hardship under the Versailles Treaty.

At the same time, it was the roaring 20s, and Berlin was center stage for an elaborate stylish nightlife. It’s a fantastic time for men’s clothing; as you can see the transition away from traditional Edwardian clothes and standards towards a more modern aesthetic that works for the everyday man.

Gereon Rath wears a three-piece suit on a regular basis

The 1920s Style is Prevalent

The main character is a police detective by the name of Gereon Rath, who comes to Berlin from Bonn and his suits are a little above the average but he still wears the same suits on a regular basis, because that’s what he would have done as a regular person in his position. His suits are almost exclusively three-piece suits and the fabric that is used looks very original; both in the pattern, the color depth, as well as the weight, which means it drags very nicely and the cut is also distinctly 1920s.

One of the shirts he wears very often is a pale gray with a stripe which is something that has fallen out of favor these days but in our opinion, it’s one of the most underrated things; it’s very easy to combine it with other items in your wardrobe.

Gereon Rath wearing a three-piece suit, overcoat, and a Homburg hat

If you want to see more formal style such as stroller suits or even frock coats, you can just look at the older characters in the show or you want something a bit more flashy, you can see what the gangsters wear,  which is typically striped suits, double-breasted overcoats with fur collars, and nice fur felt hats with contrasting headbands.

If you’re interested in hats, it’s a great show because there’s lots of top hats, Bowlers, Homburgs, and all kinds of other hats. I particularly like seeing men wearing those short ties that were prevalent in the 20s, they’re in fact much shorter than what men wear today.

Generally, one of the biggest style takeaways is that you can wear something like a suit and something that they wear 90 or 100 years later and don’t look out of place. Some may argue that a hat makes you look very dated but it can be a personal style hallmark, as Preston shows on an everyday basis.

Gereon Rath

2. Peaky Blinders

It’s unlikely that you haven’t heard of them because we’ve written about them before and it’s a very popular show in its fifth season. It’s a British production, and as usually the case with English TV productions, the period clothing is spot on and much superior to anything you see in US movies or shows. Peaky Blinders starts in 1919, so a decade before Babylon Berlin, but because of the unique setting, it has quite a different style and feel.

The show features a curious mix between the British working-class style and a rebellion towards the stiff, upper-class British style. It, too, shows us a transition from the Edwardian style with lots of stiff detachable collars at the beginning towards a slightly different style towards the end of the fifth season.

The Peaky Blinders always wear flat caps because they attach razor blades in it — which they use to attack their enemies and make them go blind.

Popularizing British Style

Today, the show has become rather influential in terms of grooming and men’s style because the high and tight haircuts with strong undercuts are now much more popular than they used to be when they started. Likewise, work boots and boots in general, as well as flat caps are probably now more popular than at the beginning of the show.

In our minds, Peaky Blinders is a masterclass in creating identities through clothing. Main character Tommy Shelby, his brothers, and his crew all wear three-piece suits with detachable collars and sometimes no neckwear. They wear nice overcoats that are typically dark and flat caps, even though they could afford nice, fur felt hats these days. They got their name Peaky Blinders because they always attach razor blades to their flat caps that they use to make people blind. Interestingly, they hem their pants rather short and they often skip neckwear but rarely the flat cap.

Tommy Shelby

The camera mark, the style, and the music for the show are in a class of its own, but the clothes as well are worth paying attention to.

The Peaky Blinders

3. Suits

It is an American legal drama that ran from 2011 through 2019. It’s set in New York and centers around two lawyers who are known as the best closers in town. The main character Harvey Specter wears mostly suits which are made-to-measure, single-breasted with a peak lapel, and that’s just his style. He’s once quoted saying, “People respond to how we’re dressed so like it or not, that’s what we have to do.” While you don’t have to convince us that clothes make the man, American TV shows often underestimate the accuracy and importance of clothing in their shows.

“People respond to how we’re dressed so like it or not, that’s what we have to do.” – Harvey Specter

Modern-day Office Wear

Even though the overall look is targeted more towards a younger audience, what the characters wear is typical modern-day, white-collar office wear. Harvey typically pairs his signature suit with widespread, collared shirts and large Windsor knot ties. I’m personally a fan of it; it’s definitely a hallmark choice that he makes that’s very characteristic. He wears it to command authority unlike his associate Mike, who wears skinny lapels and skinnier ties. It’s less authoritarian because it reflects on his young age versus Harvey who wears wider ties in materials such as grenadine and it just makes him look less young.

Harvey Specter and Mike Ross -Suits

That being said Harvey wears suits more like an armor or a uniform that helps him further his agenda; because of that, it lacks the elegance of a man who actually likes to dress, puts a bit more thought into it, and has more variation. Even though one might argue that the white-collar men’s fashion world is not that broad, you could maybe check out Wall Street where you could see a broader range of styles. I personally think Suits can get a bit boring stylistically. Nevertheless, it is a better-than-average modern production and because of that, it made the list.

Harvey Specter

Harvey Specter

4. Hannibal

Even though it only lasted for three seasons, Hannibal was lauded for his visual style. Just like in the movie Silence of the Lambs, the main character Mads Mikkelsen is a cannibalistic serial killer. He also happens to have a taste for clothes and style, in general, and because of that, he wears a typically formal attire which gives him the illusion of charm and trustworthiness.

The bold style of Hannibal

The bold style of Hannibal

A Feast of Great Aesthetics

In contrast with his deeper character and the disturbing content of the show, the celebration of food, the interior design, and the way and the type of clothes he wears are really what makes this show worth watching, in our opinion.

Hannibal Lecter

So, what does it look like? Well, three-piece suits, white-collared shirts, bold ties, bold shirts, bold accessories, and even things like dinner jackets. He sometimes even wears an ascot. While some people may argue his style is a bit showy,  especially for modern American shows, I think it’s fantastic to see someone with a definitely more formal aesthetic and a color characteristic that is usually unseen.

While I don’t say you should dress like him at all times, maybe you can get some inspiration out of it. It’s not just the character who’s really into clothes and aesthetic style. To learn more about what Hannibal wears and how you can emulate the look, check out this guide here.

Hannibal Lecter uses his atypical attire to create the illusion of charm and trustworthiness.

5. Mad Men

You’re probably not surprised that it’s on the list. It ran from 2007 through 2015,  it’s a setting of a typical advertising office in Manhattan of the 1960s. With their trim, lean suit silhouettes, mostly skinnier ties, and skinnier lapels; Mad Men’s style was very favorably received with modern-day men. At the time, a suit was obligatory and so you’ll see everyone wear suits at all times. Of course, laying the English character is a bit more flamboyant than Roger Sterling, which has a slightly older style than Don Draper, which has a more streamlined modern and his sixties style.

Don Draper in a two-piece suit and a slim tie

Roger Sterling has three-piece suits with wider lapels and wider ties, Don Draper has slimmer suits without the vest and a slimmer tie, and Lane Pryce may wear, for example, a red waistcoat. Many obligations put the character, Don Draper, on this style pedestal, in my opinion, his style isn’t that great. It’s very uniform and he uses it like that. It’s not a person who truly enjoys dressing, it’s just the regular ad executive who happens to wear suits because that’s what you had to do at the time. Of course, the short-brimmed hats to slim lapels and the skinny ties or something that you can totally wear these days. You can learn more about Don Draper’s accessories in this guide here.

The cast of Mad Men

6. Downton Abbey

Downton Abbey lasted for six seasons, had a few movies added on, and was the quintessential British upper-class drama against which all others are measured. It starts the day after the Titanic sank in 1912. It continues well into the 20s but unlike the Babylon Berlin or Peaky Blinders, it has a very different aesthetic.

It centers around the titled Crawley family and most of the show is set around their estate in the English countryside. Historically, the dress and the clothes at the time we’re strictly dictated by different occasions and because it’s a British production, it’s very accurate. It’s a trip into an era where wealth and privilege were still prevalent, and people didn’t know what a weekend was. Of course, ladies had their maid and gentlemen had their valet and so they were able to dress very elaborately and change many times a day.

The cast, wearing a white tie for dinner events in the early seasons of the show

In the early seasons, the Edwardian style is still very prevalent. White Tie for dinner, formal outfits, and morning wear during the day and it gets a little more casual along the way. There’s even one scene where the Dowager of Downton mistakes her son for a waiter because he’s not wearing Black Tie.

The show reveals how the changing of styles and fashion was often disdained by the upper-class as well as their servants. One of the seasons spans World War I and so you get to see a lot of accurate military clothing which is quite fascinating.

We covered different men’s styles of Downton Abbey quite thoroughly and you can check them out on our website here.

The Dowager of Downton mistook her son for a waiter because he’s not wearing Black Tie.

7. Boardwalk Empire

It’s set in the 1920s Atlantic City and it evolves around the main character, Nucky Thompson. It spanned from 2010 to 2014, it was one of the most expensive productions at the time and because of that, they didn’t skimp on the clothes. While it may not be entirely historically accurate, the clothes, the suits, the colors, the patterns that men wear in this show are fantastic.

Nucky Thompson in a three-piece suit.

The 1920s American Style

As expected, the American style was a bit more flamboyant and louder than the British style in Downton Abbey, but that makes it all the more interesting. You can see many Winchester shirts, collar clips, three-piece suits, boutonnieres, hats, and everything a clotheshorse is interested in. 

Nucky Thompson

Nucky Thompson has a different style than the younger Jimmy Darmody, than Chalky White who’s a lot louder and even wears like orange suits. It can also be interesting to find little mistakes, such as a center pin tuxedo with notch lapels. It’s not something people would have actually worn back in the day. Typically, Black Tie jackets had no vent. I’m sure the Brits would have never let that happen.

Apart from that, you’ll find lots of pastel shirts, large plaids, and nice fur collars, so definitely something to watch if you’re into clothes. We also talked about the show more in-depth on our website here.

Chalky White

8. The Crown

Again, it’s a British TV series that focuses heavily on Queen Elizabeth II as well as her husband, Prince Philip. Said to have been the most expensive TV series to have ever been produced, they did not skimp on the clothes either.

Prince Philip and later son, Prince Charles are two of the most prominent male characters in the show and you can see their conservative style of sometimes country suits, blazers, or formal clothing.

Prince Phillip – The Crown

It also shows us the Duke of Windsor who obviously is very much into clothing and matching patterns versus the other men don’t really make a big fuss about clothes, it’s just something they have to wear.

Nevertheless, for modern standards, the degree of naval uniforms, Black Tie, and White Tie is not something most men can wear today comfortably. You can also see the style of Anthony Armstrong Jones or Lord Snowdon, which is different and more modern and upbeat than the classic Prince Phillip, for example. I’d say from my own standards, the ground is a great show for formal attire in menswear and British tailoring.

Prince Charles from The Crown

9. Agatha Christie’s Poirot

It started in 1989 and lasted all the way through 2013. During his 24-year run, David Suchet was always Poirot, and he really perfected this role, that is not a benchmark that every other Poirot film is measured against. In over 70 episodes, Poirot, who has an interest in Art Deco interior design, central heating, and his clothes, as well as solving murders and crimes using his little gray cells.

Even though the show is set in 1930s England, Poirot has a much more Edwardian style; wearing button boots, spats, and canes. In combination with his finely groomed mustache,  his clothes make him look permanently overdressed, but that’s just to underline his quirky character.

Hercule Poirot

 

Of course, the show also has many other male characters and in the earlier episodes, you’ll see his companion Arthur Hastings, who was not the brightest bulb but always has a very nice typical 1930s clothing style. This is a clever character of the show, which is entertaining for the whole family.

Arthuh Hastings & His Clothes in Agatha Christie's Poirot

Arthur Hastings and Hercule Poirot

10. Succession

While it may not be the most interesting show in terms of clothing, it is overall a fantastic watch. At first glance, the clothes people wear are not very defining but once you get more into the show, you realize that every outfit is very characteristic of the person and their status in the show.

Logan Roy

Building Characters’ Identity with Clothing

The main character Logan Roy, who is a media patriarch and mogul billionaire always wear cardigans because he can. Of course, it could also be a nod to the fact that he’s becoming an old man but people below him typically wear suits. Interestingly, most clothes are understated. You rarely see labels, but you also get to dive into the lifestyle of the rich and famous.

None of the main characters in the show seem to particularly like clothes or fashion but it’s still interesting to see how they dress to portray themselves in a certain light. The daughter Shiv, for example, tries to wear power suits but it’s not really working out for her. Second-born son Kendall Roy who always tried to impress his father all of a sudden wears Lanvin sneakers when he invests in a tech startup, and that also backfires.

Logan Roy always wear cardigans because he can

Likewise, the family accused son-in-law Tom Wambsgans to dress like a lawyer from the Twin Cities. Even though you won’t see men wearing fur coats or diamond-studded watches, this show really emphasizes that understatements can sometimes be a great virtue in men’s clothing.

Every outfit is very characteristic of the person and their status in the show.

Have you seen these TV shows? Which style do you admire the most? Share it in the comment section!

11 Ties for the Bold: Ascots, Bolos, String Ties and other Alternative Ties for Men

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The necktie is a prime focus for us here at the Gentleman’s Gazette–we’ve devoted a number of articles and videos on our channel to how to tie bow ties and various kinds of necktie knots, and we sell a wide array of ties in the Fort Belvedere Shop. But of course, there are a great many other neckwear styles out there aside from the regular neckties and bow ties, which begs the question: are there situations where any of these other styles can or should be worn?

In this guide, we’ll discuss styles of neckwear that go beyond the typical long ties and bows, where they come from, and when or if you should wear them today.

Cravats & Ascots

Cravat

Cravat is an umbrella term for any cloth that is tied around the neck for decorative purposes. As such, it is in a sense the forefather of the necktie, the bow tie, scarves, and most other types of neckwear.

The name cravat is derived from Croatian or “Croat” mercenaries who fought during the Thirty Years’ War of 1618-1648. These mercenaries came into contact with the French, who were impressed by their colorful neckerchiefs. Over time, the French term “Croate”, in reference to the neckwear, became “cravat.” Of course, the fashion of wearing something around one’s neck decoratively dates back much further than the 17th century, but these Croatian mercenaries were the ones who really popularized it.

formal ascot

Formal Ascot or Cravat from Fort Belvedere

In British English, the term cravat or krəˈvæt/ also day cravat usually refers to a more informal type of day ascot that’s worn under the collar of the shirt. This is in contrast to the dress ascot, also called a dress cravat, formal ascot, or plastron. These terms refer to a more structured neckband with wide pointed ends, usually made of silk.

The Royal Ascot Race meeting at the Ascot Racecourse in the British town of Ascot, gave the neckwear its name, although such dress cravats were no longer worn with morning dress at the Royal Races by the Edwardian era. The dress ascot is now worn almost exclusively with formal day wear or morning dress. And if you’d like to learn more, we have be sure sure to check our guide to day cravats and formal ascots, as well as how to tie them.

With those forms out of the way, let’s dig into the more niche and obscure neckwear options found throughout history, next.

Stock Tie

The stock is a close cousin of the ascot and cravat, which comes in two varieties. The shaped stock, which is a single, long, pre-sewn piece of fabric with no folds, with a slit in its center back to facilitate tying and the older “folded stock,” which is folded lengthwise and pressed but not stitched. These folded stocks were originally white neckbands of starched linen or muslin, first worn around 1730. They would later incorporate colors and patterns and become more similar to modern day cravats.

Four-Fold Stock Tie – Foxhunting Traditional

Meanwhile, shaped stocks, which are also called dress stocks or hunting stocks, are more similar to formal ascots, are plain white, and are worn with stock pins. Stock pins, by the way, are horizontal pins, resembling large safety pins of about three inches or so, and are usually gold. They secure the ends of a dress stock together in a similar fashion to how a stick pin is used with a formal ascot.

Stocks are most often worn today as part of British hunting attire, with shaped versions being worn as part of formal fox hunting attire, and folded versions worn with the less formal dress code known as “rat catcher.” Hunters and horsemen often endorse the utility of the stock, saying that when necessary, it can be used to improvise bandages, slings, and other such devices. 

Steinkirk Cravat

Portrait of an Unknown Man in a Steinkirk

Portrait of an Unknown Man wearing a Steinkirk Cravat

One more cravat style to cover here: the Steinkirk cravat, also called a Steenkerque. This is a white stock with long ends which are twisted together and pulled through the wearer’s lapel buttonhole, somewhat casually. This style takes its name from the Battle of Steenkerque, between France and a joint force of English, Scottish, Dutch, and German forces on August 3, 1692.

Legend has it that the French were surprised at their encampment early in the morning by the opposing forces, and thus were only partly dressed at that time. The French would go on to win the battle, though, and the casual style of cravat-wearing would remain popular in the region for another handful of decades. If you tie a black ribbon over the top of a stock, you get a style called a “solitaire,” bringing us into our next neckwear category.

Ribbon and String Ties

Simple String Tie

Two Teddy Boys at a funfair wearing a String Tie – Ken Russell’s ‘The Last of the Teddy Girls’

First up here is the simple string tie, also called a bootlace tie or a sheriff’s tie predominantly in the UK. This is just as it sounds: a string that’s looped in a bow rather than being traditionally knotted. It was particularly associated with the Teddy Boy Movement in Britain in the 1950s which was itself an outgrowth of Neo-Edwardian and rockabilly fashions, and it’s often misidentified as a bolo tie.

Bolo Tie

A bolo tie also called a bola tie or shoelace tie is a style of neckwear created from a length of cord that’s almost always leather rather than a strip of silk or other fabric and closed with a jewelry-like side clasp. It usually features decorative metal tips, called aglets which is where the “shoelace tie” moniker comes from.

Example of a Bolo Tie

Example of a Bolo Tie

Most sources point to the creator of the bolo tie being a silversmith from Wickenburg, Arizona named Vic Cedarstaff. While out riding one day in the 1940s, Cedarstaff’s hat blew off. He retrieved it, but since he did not want to lose the hat band and buckle again, he took them off the hat and put them around his neck. Cedarstaff later added silver aglets to the ends of the band, named it after the bolas or bolos used by Argentine gauchos, and patented the design in 1959.

The bolo tie was adopted as the official state tie of Arizona in 1971, and later by New Mexico and Texas, as well. It got a boost in the fashion world in the 1980s with rockabilly and new wave musicians and also in Hollywood, but today, it’s most commonly associated with its western wear roots.

Plantation Tie

Mark Twain wearing a plantation tie

American writer Mark Twain wearing a plantation tie

Returning to ribbons, we have the plantation tie, which is also called the planter’s tie or southern colonel tie. This is a loop of dark ribbon that’s tied into a bow, using the same mechanics as a conventional bow tie. And it’s commonly associated with figures like Mark Twain and Colonel Harlan Sanders, the founder of Kentucky Fried Chicken. 

Black Tie Alternatives

Continental Tie

This is a bow tie alternative consisting of a strip of fabric usually black that overlaps under the throat, where it is fastened by a tie tack or snap button. Because the tie crosses over itself, it’s also referred to as a crossover. However, the term continental tie can also be applied to a V-shaped neckband fastened behind the neck rather than in front. This style also has an alternate name, the “bulldogger tie.”

1960s French Continental Tie bow tie tucked under the shirt collar and dinner jacket with black satin faced shawl collar

1960s French Continental Tie tucked under the shirt collar and dinner jacket with black satin faced shawl collar

Both of these continental tie styles were popular in America in the late 1950s and early ‘60s, as part of a broader fashion movement called the Continental Look, wherein the traditional full cuts of English suits gave way to slimmer and more youthful Italian styles. The Continental style overall, was tighter and closer to the torso, with slimmer pants, a more nipped-in waist, and a sleeker shoulder line. It was characterized by such details as narrow, trimmed lapels, sometimes semi-peaked in the Tautz style, and false, detachable cuffs.

Both styles of continental tie were popular with musicians of this time with the crossover seen on figures like Elvis Presley, and the V-shaped style becoming a signature fashion statement of bouzouki player Gianni Stamatiou, also known as Sporo.

Novelty Ties & Other Tie Styles

Leather ties were a bad 1980's trend

Leather ties were a bad 1980’s trend

We’d be remiss not to mention novelty ties of the 20th century in today’s roundup, as well, including such things as Christmas ties, keyboard ties, leather ties, and the infamous fish tie created by Ralph Marlin in the 1980s.

Additionally, we should also mention some 21st-century alternative tie styles, such as bow ties made from materials like wood, metal, cork, leather, or feathers. There are also more historical styles that we didn’t cover here today, for instance, things like the rosette tie among others.

When Can You Wear Alternative Neckwear?

Alternatives We Don’t Really Recommend

To some extent, it depends on the style in question. For example, we wouldn’t really recommend any of the more historical styles, such as the stock with the exception of hunting attire, the Steinkirk, or the solitaire.

Philippe Coypel 1732 painting in a solitaire

Philippe Coypel 1732 painting in a solitaire

Similarly, the string tie and plantation tie are probably going to look more dated and costumey than stylish today, which can also be applied to the novelty tie category more broadly.

Either style of continental tie is probably something we’d advise against as well, simply because we’re big proponents of classic Black Tie, as exemplified by the 1930s in particular. For more information on both classic black tie as well as alternatives like the continental tie, you can consult our comprehensive Black Tie Guide.

Modern, Fashion-Forward Settings

Regarding bow ties made of non-fabric materials, they can certainly work in a more modern, fashion-forward setting. But if you’re going for a look grounded in the principles of the Golden Age of Menswear, as we advocate here at the Gentleman’s Gazette, you’re probably going to find that they’re not going to be versatile or harmonious with the other elements of your wardrobe.

Western-Inspired Outfits

And what of the bolo tie, then? Well, we wouldn’t recommend it for all situations. However, if you do happen to be in the southwestern United States, particularly one of the states that’s officially sanctioned this style, then we think you could experiment with wearing it. It would probably work best though if the rest of your outfit is similarly western-inspired, but not over-the-top or costumey but rather more subtle and traditional.

Conclusion

The world of men’s neckwear is far more vast than the two main pillars of conventional neckties and bow ties. Even so, the various alternative styles we’ve covered today have remained alternative for a reason: which is to say, they’re not nearly as versatile as their more conventional counterparts.

ascots & cravats

Visit our Fort Belvedere shop to get a great discount

For 99% of sartorial situations then, a well-chosen necktie or bow tie or perhaps an ascot or cravat is going to serve you well. Feel free to experiment with the other alternative styles if you so choose, but be aware that a more standard style is going to be best for tying your looks together.

Which of these alternative styles would you consider wearing? Share with us in the comments!

12 Gentlemanly Skills You Can Practice From Home

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Whenever you are forced to stay at home, you might get bored very easily. But rather than spending all day on the couch, you can do something that feels a lot more productive and satisfying–which is practicing the following gentlemanly skills. 

Practice These Gentlemanly Skills At Home

Many of these activities cost very little, can be done with things that you already have around your home, or simply take some time and energy to learn.

1. Learn To Appreciate Whiskey

Not every man drinks and some men don’t like whiskey but just like other drinks, it’s an acquired taste. Ordering a dram of whiskey at the bar is usually rather expensive for what you get and so when you have time at home there can be a fun endeavor to test different flavors and it’ll cost you a whole lot less. Doing it from home in a controlled environment is great because it prevents any outside influences and you can fully focus on it, read up about them before and just determine what you would like and dislike about whiskeys.

The Blade _ Bow is one fantastic American whiskey

This Blade _ Bow Whiskey has a subtle aroma of fresh fruit and a taste that includes hints of dried apricot, ripe pear, and sweet roasted grain.

Rather than in full bottles, you can buy smaller sample sizes and their online services out there now that ship them right to your home. Often they’re even curated so you can just pick different sets and just taste along. Before you invest a single dollar though, you can check out our whiskey primer and 101, and more guides on how to taste whiskeys, what glasses and drinkware you should use, the different areas of Scotch, for example, so you get the theory first and then you can start in practice.

2. Learn How To Mix Your Favorite Cocktail

When you start learning to make your own favorite cocktail or just a small repertoire of cocktails, you can easily entertain and impress your guests when you have them over, or you can also just enjoy them yourself. By cocktail, I don’t mean a screwdriver or vodka soda but something more elegant than you would maybe get at a craft cocktail bar. Classics include old fashioned or Manhattan, but maybe you can also experiment with an egg-white cocktail such as a whiskey sour or something that’s a little more elaborate for summer such as a caipirinha.

Cocktails

Experiment and have fun in making your own cocktails; make sure to use fresh citrus fruits such as lemon or lime.

Of course, we suggest that you learn how to make a cocktail from scratch. Sometimes, little things like a simple syrup can be easily done with water and sugar so you don’t need to go out and buy anything. Mixers may be quicker to use but they’re also a lot more expensive and usually they don’t taste as good as a freshly handmade cocktail.

Start with The Right Tools

If you’re new to this, the big question is where do you start? Well, first of all, you need the right tools such as a shaker and a strainer and for a complete list of what you can start with, check out our guide here. I know there are often sets that you can buy but more often than not they’re overpriced and I don’t really perform well so the list we put together is all tested and works really well and it’s relatively affordable.

Essential bar tools and equipment to make cocktails

Get Some Liquor

Once you’ve got those tools, it’s time to buy some liquor. If you want to have a fully stocked bar though, that can be rather expensive. So instead, when you start, I suggest just pick three cocktails that you like and want to mix and then just buy those ingredients that you actually need.

Liquor

A selection of spirits and mixers

Use Guides to Cocktails

So, what cocktails do you like? Frankly, I don’t know but you can find some inspiration traditionally in cocktail recipe books. Personally, what I dislike about them is when you actually want to mix your cocktail the page doesn’t stay open and it’s just a pain moving around back and forth between wet fingers squeezing your lemon and understanding what the next step is.

Because of that, recently, I’ve really gotten into using an app from a local distillery called Tattersall. It’s free for Android and Apple. This is not sponsored at all and you don’t even have to use their liquor but it really helps you in choosing a cocktail based on the main liquor, based on the occasion, or the level of difficulty of mixing it.

A selection of classic cocktail books

A selection of classic cocktail books

Whenever we have guests over and I mix cocktails, they’re always impressed because they’re on par with what you would get in a nice craft cocktail bar. If you want to get really fancy, you can even invest in a special ice maker that creates clear ice for you or a smoking cloche but frankly, that sometimes overkill at home and everything smells like smoke.

One more tip though, if you have future guests over, rather than asking them what they want to drink and they’re giving you all different answers so you’re ending up having to mix six different cocktails and maybe you don’t have the ingredients for them, just say “Hey, we’re having a whiskey sour. Would you like some?” And if they’re not up for that maybe you can say, “Well, we also have a gin and tonic.” That way, it’s simple and you can mix something quickly; it tastes great, you’ve practiced, you get the proportions right, and you can then spend time with your guests rather than stressing out about different cocktail recipes.

3. Write Thank-You Notes

Handwritten correspondence in this day and age is very rare but because of that, once you receive it, it makes you feel all the more important. Just a mere fact of sitting down, thinking about it, taking a pen, and running it down makes you all the more grateful right away. Not only with a handwritten note makes the recipient feel appreciated and honored but it’s also a great way to say thank you because success in life isn’t really achieved on your own.

A handwritten note is a gesture that every gentleman should make.

You don’t need something tangible, something intangible can be just as good or sometimes even better. Just think of a parent or a mentor and when you write them a note, thanking them for what they taught you or their love, they will probably be really touched. Other reasons to write thank-you notes could be to call out kind gestures of support that you’ve received from a friend or a family member for example. Not only are thank-you notes a hallmark of a true gentleman, but they’re also a great relationship building and maintenance tool.

4. Learn How To Write With A Fountain Pen

Power of Words

Fountain pens are a gentleman’s unique tool and accessory in writing

You can learn and practice writing with a fountain pen especially when you’re working on your thank-you notes. Why do you need to learn with a fountain pen when there are all sorts of ballpoint pens out there? Well, it is a very unique tool that is old-fashioned but it makes your message feel more intentional, deliberate, and valuable. Why? Well, it’s a special tool you have to take an extra step to thank someone for example, or to write something and so it makes the recipient feel more special.

If you don’t know where to start, check our guide on how to write with a fountain pen which is made for beginners and we also put together a list of budget fountain pens under $20 as well as mid-range fountain pens between $100 and $300 so you can find something that works for you. 

5. Learn How To Give Good Gifts

Gift-giving is something that can be practiced and learned. Great gifts show how well you know someone, how well you listen to them, and how much effort you put into them so they feel appreciated. As my wife can surely tell you, the importance of gifts to individuals varies greatly. For example, she loves them and I’m just fine without them.

Fall Knit Tie & Pocket Square Silk - Wool Combination - Fort Blevedere

Accessories from Fort Belvedere are great gifts!

The key to a good gift is to give something that they really want, that they are into not something that you were into and that you enjoy. Many people like to give gifts that I would like to receive themselves but it’s all about the recipient; not about you. So one easy way to make it more about the recipient is to add their initials to the gift because that makes it less available to everyone else but much more valuable to that individual.

With all that said, if you still think that gift-giving is not worth your time, I urge you to read the book Gift-Ology because there’s a bunch of benefits of gift-giving for you even though it’s all about the recipient.

6. Learn How To Cook A Signature Dish Really Well

Now, you can practice and perfect something so when the time comes and you have to quickly put a meal together, you can impress others and just create something that is very satisfying and may be the foundation of a good conversation and of a strong relationship that you’re building through a meal. Of course, if you’re a good cook, words in the street, and people want to come over more often and they will always respect you and cherish the fact that you provide such a great meal for them.

Nothing like a great conversation over a delicious meal!

Personally, I like to cook but I don’t do it very often. I’m good with meats with sauces but my signature dishes are typically German dishes because that’s not something that you can easily get here in the US and so I can do a really good job to provide something that is special for people that they don’t get anywhere else.

So, other than my Spaetzle and Maultaschen skills, I also make a mean tiramisu. All my special dishes have really taken a lot of time to perfect them because sometimes the recipe out of the book is not ideal. I’ve also come to learn about my signature ingredients such as Worcestershire sauce and fish sauce which always add this nice umami flavor, people always say, “Mmm, your meat tastes so good, the sauce is so great; this tastes so intense,” but I can’t put their finger on it. If I sound like I’m bragging, please check out this video about all the things I suck at.

Raphael SRS Cook Steak Kitchen

While he enjoys the kitchen, Raphael doesn’t often follow others’ recipes to the letter

Also, if you’re a repertoire of signature dishes you know exactly what to cook when someone’s over so you don’t have to try something new because that’s just stressful especially if it goes wrong and you have to do it all over again. So if you don’t know where to start, just think about your favorite meal, maybe at a restaurant or your mom’s recipe and just cook it. You don’t even need to buy a cookbook these days. There are lots of nice food blogs online that provide recipes and instructions and videos for free.

That being said, we enjoy a subscription to America’s Test Kitchen because they just test one recipe a hundred times in all the different variations and come up with the one way to cook it so it tastes perfect. For example, most recently we tried some oven fries. It sounds awful, right? We all have tried fries that tasted like crap but this one was just amazing. It incorporated a mix of water and starch on a potato and everything was crisp on the outside, soft on the inside and we’ll definitely do it again.

7. Learn How To Smoke A Cigar

Now, before you get on a high horse, we don’t endorse that anyone smokes and frankly, I’m not a smoker myself. I smoke cigars very rarely and so it’s not something you have to do but I think, trying to smoke a cigar at least once in your life is a nice experience. Just like a special liquor or a 64-ounce ribeye, certain vices can sometimes be particularly enjoyable in special moments such as when you achieve something or the birth of a child, moderation is the key.

Sven Raphael trying out a Cuban cigar

Sven Raphael trying out a Cuban cigar

We have a bunch of different cigar guides, which you can check out here. If you have tried cigars and you want to check out something new, maybe you think about pipes and of course, we have a guide about that there, too.

8. Learn To Tie Neckwear Without A Mirror

As a viewer of the Gentleman’s Gazette, we fully expect that you have tied certain neckties and bow ties at home before, and most of the time we have a mirror because it makes things easier. But if you practice tying a tie or bow tie in different knots and you can do it blindly or without looking at the mirror, your knots will not only become better looking but you’ll also be quicker and you can help out anyone at any point in time even though it’s mirrored then because you look at them rather than it yourself.

If you’re just starting out, we have a video about the 3 easiest tie knots. We also have different individual videos for tie knots that I usually use and we have videos on how to tie a bow tie one for beginners and one that creates a more advanced and unique look as well. By practicing enough, you’ll be able to do it blindly without a mirror and you can still do it with a mirror but you’ll always be quicker and it’ll look better.

9. Grow A Beard or Shave with A DE Razor

The next gentlemanly skill you can learn at home is either to learn how to grow a beard at home because it’s easy now and you can see what it looks like or you can learn how to shave properly with a DE razor which not only provides a superior shave but it’s also a lot less expensive.

Growing a beard takes commitment and will grow out eventually

Growing a beard takes commitment and will grow out eventually

Even if you’re not into beards, you might think, “Well, why shave while I’m at home? No one is going to see my smooth results anyways,” but it’s like with many things in life; practice leads to perfection, and now that you have the time it’s just a good time to start.

Shaving with a DE razor and a sharp blade is not something to practice before you have to get into work in 20 minutes on a Tuesday. So, why should you skip your cartridge system? Well, not only will you get a much better and smoother result but if you do it properly, you can do it in about the same time. It is also a lot less expensive in the long run because you don’t have to buy expensive cartridges and using a DE razor can help to prevent razor burns and ingrown hairs.

The closeness of a safety razor shave is worth the few extra minutes

The closeness of a safety razor shave is worth the few extra minutes

If you’re starting out, I suggest checking out shaving mistakes most men make so you can avoid them. You can even get our 200+ page shaving guide where we tested over 150 different products and show you everything step by step along with some videos when becoming a patron of the Gentleman’s Gazette. To learn more about the perks you get as a patron, please check out our Patreon page.

10. Cultivate A Hobby

For me, classic men’s clothing was a hobby, then it turned into a business and a career, and I select to spend time on it and read about it or watch something or just learn about it in general. For example, just recently I read a book about bespoke shoes by Bernhard Roetzel. If you’re interested in classic men’s style and I assume you’re because you’re here, then here’s a list of 10 books I urge you to read, and if you want to even have more books, here’s a list with 100 books. If you were curious about other hobbies, here’s a list of 100 hobbies specifically for gentlemen.

Classic menswear–for Raphael, a hobby that became a career

11. Learn To Be A Better Listener

Being a good listener is always a valuable skill but it becomes even more important when you are under pressure, because it creates a win-win situation. Why is that? Well, if others feel appreciated and feel like they’re heard, they’re much more likely to respect what you are saying.  I get it. Listening and waiting for the other person to finish is hard sometimes. In my family, we often talk over each other, but this suggests that it’s always more important to you to bring your point across and you’re just waiting for the next pause so you can bring your counter-argument but that means you’re not even listening and comprehending what the other person is saying.

Listening strengthens relationships and demonstrates attentiveness, caring, and respect.

Culturally, it’s, of course, very different across the world. That being said, being able to listen to others is a skill you need in any human to human relationship and it will just be beneficial for you, the better you can do it. As a gentleman, it reflects your respect to the other person in their contribution and that you deem it as valuable as your own.

In today’s world, it’s so easy to be distracted and just look at your phone or do other things and multitask but in reality, it’s not something we can truly do and if you listen while you’re doing something else, you’re not truly listening. So, always force yourself to look the other person into the eye because it shows that you’re paying attention and then try to paraphrase what they say or ask smart questions that make sense based on what they just said. By giving someone your undivided attention, you make them feel heard and understood and at the end of the day, we all want to experience that.

12. Learn How To Argue Properly

Last but not the least, you can learn how to argue properly. If you’re in close quarters with your co-workers or your family, chances are, an argument will arise sooner or later. How a person argues strikes right at the heart of your character and it’s the moment where people actually take their gloves off.

Argue the point, not the person.

Are you a good listener, do you become defensive, or are you very aggressive: What is your style? Are you open to new ideas or ideas not from you or are you just focusing on your point of view? No one likes to be perceived as incompetent or wrong but the way you handle an argument is how it shows who you really are. Because that, a two-sided debate and conversation is very important and that means that opinions are never sacred and that you also have to accept to be wrong sometimes and let the other person show you certain facts and you have to be man enough or gentleman enough to recognize that and say, “Yes, you’re right. I’m sorry I was wrong.”

Along those lines, trying to win should never be the goal rather maybe focus on the truth and the other person, and keep in mind that they want to be heard and understood. A general unwillingness to learn or to consider other people’s viewpoints doesn’t make you more a man. It just shows that you’re so insecure that you just have to look at your own angle.

Keep the lines of communication open.

So, what does it specifically mean to argue like a gentleman? Well, first of all, you stay calm and you don’t yell. You stick to the facts and don’t use insults or refer to all things that are in the past and are closed now. We created a whole video about how to argue like a gentleman and you can check it out here.

Conclusion

By working on any or all of these skills, not only will you combat the boredom that often comes with being stuck at home, but will also emerge with a new set of useful skills. If you enjoyed this guide, you may also want to check out how to improve your wardrobe and how to maintain it.

Have you mastered any of these skills? Share with us in the comments!

17 Movies Every Menswear Fan Should Watch: 1970s-2010s

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This list is the second installment of Movies Every Menswear Fan Should Watch, wherein we’ll cover movies from the 1970s to the modern era. If you haven’t yet, check out part one, where we covered vintage movies from the ’30s through the ’60s. 

Must-See Movies From the 1970s Through the 2010s

1-2. The Godfather, Parts I & II (1972 & 1974)

The movie series depicts the life of the Corleone mafia family — in particular, the patriarch Vito and his son Michael. Part I spans from 1945 to ’55, while Part II focuses on the early life of Vito in the early 1900s and on Michael in 1958. Both films feature a wide array of clothing, including military attire, Black Tie, suits, and various other outfits.

Don Vito Corleone, head of the Corleone family, wearing a black-tie outfit.

Of course, while some of the Mafiosi outfits can be more on the ostentatious side, people are well-dressed in general. And yes, we also recommend these movies for the plot–even though Part III (from the ’90s) may be a bit more questionable.

3. The Sting (1973)

This movie features Paul Newman and Robert Redford. It is set in 1936 and as such, the period clothing is of interest to clotheshorses. The movie won seven Oscars out of ten nominations, and you can see the actors wearing black-tie outfits including detachable collars (which were period-accurate) and patterned suits.

Paul Newman (L) and Robert Redford in 1973's The Sting. Note the 1930's costumes, including fedoras and suits with checks and patterns.

Paul Newman (L) and Robert Redford in 1973’s The Sting. Note the 1930’s costumes, including fedoras and suits with checks and patterns.

4. The Great Gatsby (1974)

This version is the third of four movies about the title character. Originally penned by St. Paul native, F. Scott Fitzgerald, the novel is usually acclaimed for its language–but because of the setting, the clothes are of particular importance to anyone interested in men’s clothing.

Robert Redford as Gatsby in the character’s signature pink suit.

Set in the 1920s, Ralph Lauren designed the suits and costumes in this movie. While they have a distinct ’70s flair, particularly the suits, they’re still very interesting to see–especially the pink suit that Robert Redford wears. By the way: we’ve also analyzed the style of the 2013 version of The Great Gatsby!

5. Chinatown (1974)

Chinatown is hailed by many cinephiles as one of the best movies ever produced. It won numerous awards and was selected for preservation by the Library of Congress. The reason we put it on this list is that Jack Nicholson wears very period-accurate clothing, particularly his suits. Set in 1937, you can see him wearing tastefully neutral-colored suits paired with bolder ties and hats that flatter his face shape. If you watch it in a higher-res version, you can also see the subtle patterns, which are quite nice.

Jack Nicholson wearing a fedora hat at the spillway where Mulwray’s body is recovered.

6. American Gigolo (1980)

American Gigolo established Richard Gere as a leading man in Hollywood, and it’s commonly known as being the first mainstream movie to feature a male leading star with full-frontal nudity. We think it’s worth watching for the clothes, however!

Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980) wearing a camelhair polo coat

When Gere is actually clothed, he wears a number of different outfits that are also more prep influenced. He wears summery combinations with lightweight shirts and slacks, combinations of polos with sport coats, and a polo overcoat designed by Giorgio Armani.

7. The Untouchables (1987)

This is another period crime drama. Set in the 1930s, Prohibition agent Eliot Ness puts together the “Untouchables” task force to bring down gangster Al Capone. Wardrobe-wise it’s interesting because there’s a clear distinction established between Eliot Ness and his Untouchables (who mostly wear dark, muted suits) and the much more loud, elaborate, and ostentatious outfits of Al Capone and the gangsters. For a clotheshorse, the black-tie and white-tie outfits of Capone are more interesting than the regular dark suits that The Untouchables wear.

Robert De Niro as Al Capone (center) in a black-tie ensemble

8. Wall Street (1987)

One movie that definitely can’t be missing from this list is Wall Street. Starring Michael Douglas as corporate raider Gordon Gekko and Charlie Sheen as a Wall-Street newcomer, this movie is really famous for its 1980s power suits. In general, it has come to be seen as representative of the focus on success and materialism in that decade. We’ve discussed Gordon Gekko’s outfits in our post on Halloween costumes! The film’s wardrobe was designed by Alan Flusser, who is a menswear style icon and author of many menswear books including Dressing the Man (which, if you haven’t read it, you should definitely check it out).

Gordon Gekko in Wall Street wearing a printed power tie with large motifs

What stands out in the styling this movie are of course the double-breasted, peaked lapel power suits; the shirts, which are quite bold–including Winchester shirts with a contrasting white collar or even horizontal stripes; the suspenders, and the ties. You can also see lots of cufflinks, pleated pants, and cuffs. And while Gordon Gekko takes the top spot with his power suits, other suits are also interesting even though they’re a bit more muted.

9. Casino (1995)

Casino follows Ace Rothstein, a Jewish-American gambling expert overseeing a casino in Vegas. It is set in the ’70s, and if you’ve watched our video on The History of the Suit, you know that we’re not big fans of that decade in menswear; stylistically, it was just a sad time that was loud and filled with polyester and nylon. However, in this movie, the bold and excessive outfits fit in with the culture of Las Vegas. While we don’t recommend you wear the tone-on-tone suit and tie combinations and under lighter sport coats and suits which De Niro pulled off, it’s still fun to look at.

Robert De Niro (L) in a tone-on-tone ensemble in blue, and Don Rickles in a more conventional gray suit with a large-patterned tie

10. The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999)

A psychological thriller set in 1950s Italy, this film is about the life of Dickie Greenleaf and how someone else tries to impersonate him. It’s a very stylish movie, with lots of casual clothes and a well-appointed interior design. Clothes-wise, it’s a mix of Ivy, Trad, and Prep, paired with Italian flair. You’ll see lots of Oxford cloth button-down shirts, linen polo shirts, blazers, and tweed coats. That aside, it’s definitely a great movie to watch.

Ripley and Greenleaf, two young friends from different social classes in the movie The Talented Mr. Ripley

11. American Psycho (2000)

While you might not expect a satirical, psychological horror film on this list, we added it here because it’s so iconic for its style and in particular, its “business card” scene. The movie is definitely violent, depicting the investment banker and socialite yuppie, Patrick Bateman. And while he doesn’t behave in a gentlemanly way at all, the power suits of the 1980s are definitely worth taking a look at, if you can stomach the harsher themes of the film.  Again you’ll find peak lapels, pinstripes, and bold shirts and ties. Even though some scenes in the office have a more beige palette, it creates a more ironically humorous effect.

Patrick Bateman wearing a two-button single-breasted chalk-striped wool-flannel suit, combined with a polka-dot silk tie.

12. A Single Man (2009)

This movie is directed by Tom Ford, who also financed it. They brought in the costume designers from Mad Men, and so you have a very mid-century modern style in this movie. Of course with Tom Ford being a stylish clotheshorse himself, he paid particular attention to detail about the clothing, and because of that, it’s worth watching.

Colin Firth wearing a Copenhagen brown suit, the look of the studied academic at the same time has an almost old-world charm.

While the main character, played by Colin Firth, is often seen in what you already know from Don Draper’s Mad Men (namely, a dark suit with slim lapels and slim ties), the younger Hoult often wears more youthful, casual looks, featuring elements like sweaters, chinos, and suede chukka boots.

13. Drive (2011)

This features Ryan Gosling in a heist movie. The film received standing ovations at the Cannes Film Festival, but we put it on this list for the clothing, even though it’s a bit more rugged, featuring boots, denim, henley shirts, and in particular, driving gloves. If you don’t know it already, we’re big fans of driving gloves at Fort Belvedere, too!

As big fans of driving gloves, we appreciate the gloves Ryan Gosling wears in 2011’s Drive

14. W.E. (2012)

The title stands for Wallis and Edward, and it’s basically the love story of Wallis Simpson and Edward VIII who later became the Duke of Windsor (through the lens of Madonna, who directed the film). As a young Prince of Wales and later Edward VIII who then abdicated and became the Duke of Windsor, he was always known for his style. At the time, in the ’30s, he was one of the most photographed men in the world.

Duke of Windsor with a polka-dot tie

The infamous Duke of Windsor (with Wallis Simpson) wearing a polka dot necktie

He revolutionized classic menswear by choosing soft, turn down colors versus stiff, detachable collars and many other things; and he was also known for his bold patterns and interesting looks. The stuff that you can see in this movie ranges from white tie to black tie and interesting casual wear. Of course, it’s an American movie, and we think it would have even been better and more period-accurate if it were British, but nevertheless, it’s worth watching for the vibe of the ’30s as well as the costumes.

15. The Best Offer (2013)

This movie is probably a little less popular, but still on our list. Here, Geoffrey Rush plays an eccentric art expert and managing director of an auction house who collects art. The film features not only some inspired upper-class interior design, but also an extensive wardrobe for Rush’s character; he’s often seen wearing three-piece suits and interesting subtle combinations.

Geoffrey Rush’s glove closet

He also wears gloves at all times, because he’s afraid of infection. In our opinion, the best thing in the whole movie is the extensive glove closet, which hides the entrance to his private art gallery. It’s such a cool closet because it features mirrors, and with its sheer size, it is much bigger than most people’s regular closets.

16. The Man From U.N.C.L.E. (2015)

A spy/action movie directed by Guy Ritchie, this film is set in the Cold-War era of 1963. It’s interesting from a wardrobe perspective because the two main characters (played by Henry Cavill and Armie Hammer) are really differentiated through their onscreen wardrobes.

Henry Cavill as CIA agent Napoleon Solo, in a gray-blue suit with a large overcheck

On the one hand, you have the debonair Napoleon Solo who wears three-piece suits in lighter shades of grey and blue; on the other hand, you have Illya Kuryakin who wears muted suits or ensembles of a suede blouson jacket with a flat cap and slacks.

17. Hail, Caesar! (2016)

Bringing us full-circle with Part 1 of this series, this movie is set in Hollywood’s golden age of the 1950s. While the film wasn’t well-received by audiences, we included it here because the fashion designer of the movie did months of research to achieve period accuracy for the late 1940s suits.

For example, star Josh Brolin’s double-breasted suits and Homburg hats were chosen so they worked well with his complexion. Also, his mustache was styled after Walt Disney, and his hair was permed. You also see characters wearing black tie, patterned sport coats, ascots, and other ensembles.

Bonus: 2 More Stylish Movies

There are two great films featuring menswear we didn’t discuss here: one is The Artist, which won an Oscar for Best Picture–but we’ve already discussed that in-depth in this piece, and the other is Kingsman: The Secret Service, which has had such a profound impact on menswear in pop culture that we should probably cover it in similar depth in the future. Stay tuned!

Jean Dujardin - The Artist

Jean Dujardin – The Artist

Are there any other movies that you think should be included on this list? Share with us in the comments!


Linen Explained – Men’s Summer Fabric Guide

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In this installment of our continuing series Fabric Explained, we discuss linen, the quintessential summer fabric.

History of Linen

Linen fabric is derived from the flax plant; the oldest cultivated plant known to man. The flax plant’s Latin name is Linum Usitatissimum, and from that, the word linen was derived. Archaeological evidence was found in a cave in Georgia (the country, not the state) from 34,000 years ago regarding the cultivation of flax. Around 3000 BC/BCE, Mesopotamians mastered the cultivation of the flax plant and they used it to create ropes, threads, and even clothing.

At the time, it was a luxury and as such it was reserved for the wealthier classes and for priests. The same was true in ancient Egypt, where linen fabric was a symbol of status and wealth. For example, their pharaohs were mummified in linen or flax fabric. It’s also referenced in the Bible many times, and from the Middle East it spread to Asia and Europe. Romans and Greeks believed that linen was a sign of purity and royalty.

Linen - Woodcut illustration of a verse retelling of the parable of Dives and Lazarus (Luke 16:19-31) by Jacob Locher.

Woodcut illustration of a Bible verse (Luke 16:19-31) by Jacob Locher, depicting “a rich man in purple and fine linen”

 

Around 700 AD/CE in France, linen was used as a sanitary fabric, and it also became more popular throughout Europe–especially in places like Ireland where it became a thriving trade. To this day, Irish linen is often referenced as a hallmark of quality for linen.

Why Was Linen So Popular?

It has always been a strong and sturdy fabric, and so it was used in many industries. Just think of books, table cloths, bed linens, canvases, upholstery, and so forth. Over the course of the last hundred years, linen has gotten a lot of competition from other fabrics like cotton, wool, or cashmere, but also artificial fibers such as viscose. Today, more and more people are becoming interested in linen again, not just because of its strength and longevity but also because of its eco-friendliness.

Pedro Mendes with dark blue knit tie, white button down shirt and ivory linen suit with crown fold pocket square - note the unusual hat

Pedro Mendes with dark blue knit tie, white button-down shirt and ivory linen suit with crown fold pocket square – note the unusual hat

Characteristics of Linen Fabric

1. Strong, Durable, Crisp & Absorbent

First of all, it is stronger, more durable and also more lustrous than, for example, cotton. It is also quite crisp and absorbent.

2. Heat- and Moisture-Wicking

It typically wears rather cool, because the weave is a little looser than most cotton or wool fabrics. Because of that, linen fabric usually feels more porous, and a lot of people appreciate its heat- and moisture-wicking abilities.

The weave of linen is typically loose enough to let air through.

3. No Pilling

On top of that, you won’t have any problems with pilling because the fibers are very long or type of static, which you might experience with polyester or other artificial fibers.

4. Wrinkly (In A Good Way)

Typically, high-quality flax fibers are between 18 and 30 inches long. While it makes them durable, it also means they’re not very likely to relax, which means linen is a very wrinkly fabric. Unlike the wrinkles in cotton (which make you look a bit more frumpy), the really pronounced characteristic wrinkles of linen are a sign of a sophisticated casual style.

Wrinkled Linen Suit via Stile Maschile

Wrinkled Linen Suit via Stile Maschile

5. Dyes Easily

Because linen is absorbent, it also takes dye very easily, and it typically comes in many different colors.

Linen can take pretty much any color under the sun

Linen can take pretty much any color under the sun

6. Softens Over Time

Because linen doesn’t stretch much naturally, it pays to have garments to cut a little wider. But when you do that, over time the fabric becomes softer and you’ll cherish the garment even more.

Notice the wrinkles of this linen jacket

Notice the wrinkles of this linen jacket

How Is Linen Made?

It all starts with the flax plant, which is mostly cultivated in Europe these days, in places like France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Italy, or Ireland. Of course, flax is also cultivated in other countries such as Canada or China, but most people would consider the European flax to be the best for high-quality linen fabric. The process from a flax plant to a linen fabric is actually quite complicated, which makes it a somewhat special craft.

Harvesting

The flax is typically harvested after a hundred days of growth. Harvesting flax is a delicate process because it has to be uprooted rather than just being cut. Why? Well, if the stalk is cut you’ll have some sap, which impacts the fibers negatively. It used to be done all by hand and was labor-intensive. Today, it can be done by machines.

The flax plant, from which linen fibers are derived

Rippling & Retting

In the second step, the plants are rippled, which means the seeds are removed. Next comes retting, whereby the Flax plants are left outside in the field, where they experience the elements such as rain and sun. That makes the outside bark loosen up, which makes the flax plant ready for the next step in linen production.

Scutching

In this step, you will take the dried flax stalks and put them into a flax break, crushing the inside part of the flax and leaving the flax fiber exposed. These small broken pieces are called shives and they were traditionally removed during the scutching process, using two pieces of wood to remove the residual bark from the fibers. Today, all of this is done by a scutching machine with rotating paddles removing all the shives neatly, and just leaving the nice flax fibers.

Once dry, the flax plant is gathered to be scutched and combed (credit: George Washington’s Mount Vernon)

Combing

Because flax is a natural material, fibers have different lengths–but for linen production, you only want the long fibers. And to get those, you had to traditionally comb the fibers so the short ones would stick in the comb and you are left with the long, good ones. Of course, the flax combing process is now also all done by machines and the result is better and faster.

Spinning & Reeling

In the next step, the blonde, hairlike, 18 to 30-inch long flex fibers are then spun into a yarn. The yarn is then reeled on spools and sent through a hot-water bath which ensures a cohesive yarn and lends the yarn some shine. The finished yarn reels are wound into bobbins and then they can be used for weaving fabric.

Weaving

The weaving of linen is very similar to other fabrics such as wool, silk, or cotton. So, before you actually weave the fabric, the flax yarn is inspected for moisture content, tensile strength, cohesion, and color consistency. The yarn bobbins are made into warp beams which can be up to 10 kilometers or 6 miles long.

After weaving, manual checking and repairing of faulty linen fabric is complete (credit: Victoria and Albert Museum)

Traditionally, linen was handwoven in a very slow mechanical process. Today, you have high-speed looms that create fabric pretty quickly. And just like with any woven fabric, they’re inspected afterward to find and remedy any defects, and then it’s time to send it to the finishing department.

Finishing

Linen is typically washed, bleached, and dyed, and sometimes it also receives a water-repellent or fire-repellent treatment. Just like with wool or cotton, there’s a different range of qualities for apparel fabrics, and the weave and the weight of linen has a huge impact on how it drapes and how it wears.

Summer linens rank as the most casual of fabrics for their "rough" texture and their tendency to wrinkle easily.

Summer linens rank as the most casual of fabrics for their “rough” texture and their tendency to wrinkle easily.

Types of Linen

1. Irish Linen

Generally, the most popular linen used for clothing is often referred to as Irish linen, and it’s typically about 10 to 13 ounces heavy. Personally, I find that designation confusing, because in Ireland, they produce linen of all kinds of weights and weaves, so this is more a historical term that’s not really helpful to the consumer.

An antique marcella dress shirt dating from the 1920s or 30s. Made in Derry from Pure Irish Linen.

An antique Marcella dress shirt dating from the 1920s or 30s. Made in Derry from Pure Irish Linen.

In my experience, heavier linen drapes better and the wrinkles you see are maybe a bit larger and wider, and not as pronounced as the linen of lighter fabrics. This type of linen is often used for suits, because it looks very sophisticated.

2. European Linen

Another common linen is European linen, which is usually about 8 to 9 ounces heavy, and therefore shows more wrinkles than the heavier linen. Some people like to use this linen, especially in very hot climates because it usually wears a bit cooler. It is also used for shirts or things like shorts.

3. Cambric Linen

An even lighter variety is the so-called Cambric linen, which is usually about 6 ounces heavy. It often has a mottled, two-tone characteristic which gives you a very casual look. Because of that, it’s popular with shirting fabrics as well as pocket square fabrics. If you’d make a pocket square out of a heavy 13-ounce Irish linen, it would just be too big in your pocket and look unsightly.

At Fort Belvedere, we pay great attention to detail and so all of our high-quality, hand-rolled Italian linen pocket squares have the exact size that is perfect for the weight of the linen.

4. Linen Blends

The hard-wearing properties of linen are also often utilized to blend with other fibers such as cotton or polyester. Lately, it has also been blended with wool which leads to quite interesting results. Typically, the heaviest linens can reach all the way up to 15 ounces but they’re typically reserved for tablecloths or bed linen and not used for the apparel industry because they’re just too heavy and stiff.

What Are The Environmental Impacts of Linen?

Next to hemp, linen is probably the most eco-friendly fiber or fabric out there. Even though they’re technically not necessary, chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides are used in linen production, which is not so great for the environment. Also, if the process of retting takes place in rivers that obviously pollutes the river with certain chemicals but there are now also things like enzyme-retting that are much more environmentally friendly.

flax seeds (linen)

The seeds of the flax plant can be used to make linseed oil

On the bright side, flax can be cultivated even under poor soil conditions with very little water, which means it uses relatively less water compared to, like, cotton. On top of that, everything of the flax plant can be used. On the one hand, you can actually use the flax seeds and you can make linseed oil. The fibers that are not appropriate for the linen fabric can be used to make burlap or sewing thread for heavy leather. While most linen fabrics are actually dyed and colored, an undyed piece of linen is actually biodegradable.

How To Buy Linen

Knowing that it’s not just a strong and sturdy fabric that has a nice sheen but it’s also very environmentally friendly, how should you go about buying linen garments and what do you have to pay attention to? As I mentioned before, the best quality linens come from Europe. Personally, we’ve worked with French, Belgian, Irish, and Italian linen and they have all been very high quality. If we’d have to pick one as the winner, it would probably be Italian linen because, the Italians have really mastered the finishing process in fabrics (and they also dominate the wool fabric trade because of it.)

Tip #1: Check the Origin & Base Material

Find out where the linen is from and what base material was used.

Not all weaves are the same, and they can have a huge impact on the look and feel of an outfit. An open weave will let you feel every breeze and keep you cooler

Not all weaves are the same, and they can have a huge impact on the look and feel of an outfit. An open weave will let you feel every breeze and keep you cooler

Tip #2: Look at the Weight & Weave

If you want something heavier, 10 to 13 ounces is good; something lighter weight but 8 to 9 ounces is better and 6 ounces is great for shirts or pocket squares. That being said, the weight alone doesn’t determine how cool something wears.

Open weave shirt fabric, ideal for summer

Open weave shirt fabric, ideal for summer

The weave is also very important, and if you have a looser weave and you can see more air holes, that’ll mean you’ll feel every breeze more easily than if you have a very tightly woven linen. You can really feel the difference if you stand in front of a fan, for example. Alternatively, you can hold up your linen towards a strong light source and see which one shows more light.

How To Style Linen Garments

Pocket Squares

Typically, we recommend that the first pocket square every man should own is a white linen pocket square with a hand-rolled edge. We offer them without monograms or with your hand-monogrammed initial in our shop. Of course, we also have other linen colors and they come with a fine, contrasting cross-stitch and they add a really nice texture and it just looks very handsome.

100% Linen Pocket Squares by Fort Belvedere

Suits & Sports Coats

Because it is typically a warm-weather fabric, most linen suits will have a single-breasted silhouette–simply because you have just one layer of fabric rather than a double layer of fabric over your chest and belly. However, with the popularization of double-breasted styles in modern casual sport coats in recent years, you can now also find double-breasted linen suits and sport coats.

As linen is prone to wrinkling, it has typically a more casual character and if you go for a linen sport coat or a jacket, I think it looks best with patch pockets because they underline that casualness. They just look better than jetted or flap pockets. In the same vein, a pair of contrast buttons simply make things more relaxed and more appropriate for a linen suit or sport coat.

Green linen and gingham

Linus Norbom wearing a green linen jacket with a green and white gingham shirt and white pants

Pants

Because linen fiber is not flexible and it doesn’t stretch, I like my linen garments to be cut slightly on the looser side and because of that a pair of pants for me typically has pleats and even shorts should have pleats, they’re just more comfortable to wear that way. I also think the extra room works well for a more casual summer look.

Sophisticated Wrinkles of Cotton and Linen Blend Fabric

Sophisticated Wrinkles of Cotton and Linen Blend Fabric

Shirts

Some people also like linen for shirts including dress shirts or things like Henley shirts or popover shirts. Overall, it’s a very casual shirt so make sure you have a very soft collar and soft cuffs and skip the stiff interlining. If you’re not sure if a linen shirt is right for you, you can find out even at places like Uniqlo for about $30. They even have a great range of color and you can see if it works for you.

A linen denim shirt from Cordone 1956

A linen denim shirt from Cordone 1956

Typically off the rack, most linen shirts are going to be in solid colors of pastel. If you go for custom shirts, you can find a much greater range of patterned linen in herringbones, dots, or checks. It really gives you the ability to create a one-of-a-kind shirt that cannot be found off the rack.

Sweaters

In recent years, I’ve also found linen sweaters. Personally, I always find them a bit harsh on their own, and rather than going with a 100% linen sweater, maybe a blended linen and cotton sweater are much more preferable.

Linen Cotton Blend Sweater Polo Ralph Lauren

A sweater in blended cotton and linen from Polo Ralph Lauren

Soft Accessories

Linen can also be great for things like neckties or bow ties because they really casualize your outfit. Overall, when it comes to accessories or garments, linen is a great way to make things breezier, lighter, more summery, and overall more casual.

Linen ties in 3-fold construction, made by hand with a soft interlining – perfect for summer outfits.

How To Care For Linen

On the bright side, linen fabrics don’t have lint and they’re not prone to pilling so you don’t have to worry about that. To clean, a warm hand wash or delicate machine wash is best. Ideally, use a mild laundry detergent but always stay clear of bleach, because that will ruin your linen garment.

If you find a stain on a linen garment, you can dilute some hydrogen peroxide or use some laundry detergent in water and let it soak for about 30 to 45 minutes. Always keep in mind that harsh scrubbing or rubbing is not great for linen because the weave is typically a little coarser and it will just be more likely to destroy the garment. Make sure it’s properly rinsed and then, let it air dry and don’t put it in the dryer.

A lukewarm hand wash or machine wash in delicate cycle cleans linen best.

How To Iron Linen

Linen wrinkles a lot, and therefore it’s best ironed. Fortunately, you can iron it with very high heat and you don’t need an extra cloth, like you would need with wool. It’s best ironed with a steam iron or ideally when it’s still slightly moist so you can remove all the wrinkles from it. Keep in mind, though, that linen will always wrinkle and it’s just part of the charm of the fabric. Don’t work against, it just learn to live with it!

What is your favorite linen garment and what feature do you most enjoy about the cool-wearing fabric? Share with us in the comments!

Suit Alterations: What a Tailor Can (& Can’t) Do

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You’re at a thrift shop and see a vintage Armani suit you love, but the shoulders are too wide. Should you buy it? In situations like these, the difference between getting a steal and wasting your money depends on whether your tailor can complete the required alterations to make the item fit you well.

How Many Sizes Larger or Smaller Can You Go?

The first rule of alterations is that taking away or reducing the amount of fabric is doable, but you can’t make something bigger, at least not by much. Exactly how much depends on what allowances of extra material were under the seams or hems of the garments. Tailored pants and jackets that were originally expensive or well made, especially bespoke, will usually contain more allowances, future-proofing for the changing size of the wearer over time. Ready-to-wear or less expensive items usually have little or no extra material to let out as a means of keeping costs down. Therefore, you’ll have better chances for a successful alteration if your find is a bit too big rather than too small for you.

A suit that is too large and baggy may be beyond a tailor’s help

 

With that said, there are also limits in making things smaller. A suit jacket is quite complex in construction and can’t simply be shrunken down multiple sizes, because the proportions will be altered and the elaborate structure (lining, canvas, padding, pockets, etc.) will have to be reconstructed to the point that it would be more cost-effective to buy a whole new jacket. However, it’s not major surgery to cinch (“take in”) the sides, waist, chest and arms (more on these alterations later). The rule of thumb is that you can go down two sizes at a maximum, but a suit jacket or blazer only one size too large is a safer option. The problem is always that jackets that are too large can also be too large in the shoulders, which is a more challenging thing to alter.

Taking in a jacket

A jacket can be taken in or reduced a moderate amount in various places

Trousers are a little more forgiving, especially if you want to go with a high-waisted look. While legs can be made narrower and waistbands taken in, the rise of a pair of pants–the distance between the waistband and crotch–is more difficult to change. But, if a high rise is your style, you can transform a too-large pair of mid- or even low-rise pants into high rise by altering the parts that can be tailored and leaving the rise alone. In this way, a potential deal-breaker can actually be something desirable.

Altering the Shoulders of a Suit Jacket

1. Changing the Width of Shoulders – NO

With this ground rule established, let’s look at the parts of a tailored outfit from top to bottom in terms of what can be altered and what cannot, starting with the shoulders of a suit jacket (or sport coat, or blazer). Of course, as the first thing we consider, shoulders are an exception to the rule; making shoulders either bigger or smaller are both not recommended as alterations. The structure of a jacket shoulder is complex enough that reshaping them involves major surgery.

2. Changing the Pad Level of Shoulders – MAYBE

David Byrne of the Talking Heads: Can shoulder width and pad level be altered?

David Byrne of the Talking Heads: Can shoulder width and pad level be altered?

If your body doesn’t suit a padded shoulder, you can remove shoulder pads with the goal of a natural Neapolitan shoulder or add them in an attempt to make a Neapolitan style into a more British jacket. In both cases, the structure of the shoulder will change (and along with it, the appearance of the jacket), but the result will never be the same as one in the original style. It’s sort of like taking a cheap car, adding a rear spoiler and a decorative hood scoop, and calling the result a race car. The result will never be authentic or even look as good as buying a new jacket with the sort of shoulder you wanted in the first place.

Ethan wearing is beloved spectators and a DB suit with faint mini windowpane paired with a boater hat

Ethan wearing his beloved spectators and a DB suit with faint mini windowpane paired with a boater hat

Ethan Wong recently experimented by having a padded shoulder turned into a natural one; he made use of a highly skilled tailor to do more than just change the padding. Ethan also didn’t try to pass the jacket off as Italian tailoring; his goal was just to improve the overall look and fit of the garment. If you go this route, it’s important that the tailor is experienced and the jacket one you’re willing to have significantly altered.

Changing the Collar – MAYBE

Collar Gap

Collar Gap

An alteration that is rarely thought about is altering the collar of a suit jacket. This is not an area that jumps to mind as having an impact on the look or even fit of a suit, but a collar that is overly large for your neck will result in the dreaded “collar gap.” If this is something that affects your suits, you may be tempted to do something about it by having the collar removed and re-cut. It can be done, but this is another case where it’s better to simply buy a jacket that doesn’t gap, as the repair can be costly and collar gap can have other causes, like having one shoulder wider or lower than another or a particular posture.

Altering Sleeves on a Jacket

1. Narrowing, Lengthening, and Shortening Sleeves – YES

Sleeves may be the easiest part of a jacket to change–after all, they’re essentially two tubes with little complex structure to them. Narrowing ones that are too large around the arms is an easy alteration. Making sleeves slightly longer or shorter, say by a 1/2″ or so, is also a fairly routine procedure. But longer lengthening, even if there’s enough material, puts the buttons too far away from the edge of the sleeve, while shortening too much puts the first button too close to the end of the sleeve, both of which look strange.

The amount of cuff Sven Raphael Schneider like to show

The amount of cuff Sven Raphael Schneider likes to show. Note the correct distance from the last button to the end of the jacket sleeve. (Tie: Madder Silk Tie in Blue with Buff and Red Paisley – Fort Belvedere)

If your sleeve buttons are non-functioning, a tailor can move the top or bottom button (and pick out the decorative stitching) to balance out larger changes of sleeve length. However, if you have working buttons this is a more difficult alteration because it will not be possible to sew up the former buttonholes cleanly; these are really tears in the fabric that can only be closed with the services of a reweaver–a specialist who can reweave the cloth–who are rare to find.

As the sleeve buttons on this jacket are non-functioning, lengthening it would be possible.

As the sleeve buttons on this jacket are non-functioning, lengthening it would be possible. (Cufflinks: Monkey’s Fist Knot Cufflinks – 925 Sterling Silver Rose Gold Plated – Fort Belvedere)

This is one instance where a higher-end tailoring detail is actually detrimental to alterations, so if you pick up a jacket with functioning sleeve buttons, make sure the sleeves don’t need extensive lengthening or shortening. In fact, even cleaning up the stitching on non-functional sleeves can be imperfect, so exercise caution. An alternative is to have a skilled tailor shorten the sleeve by removing it and reducing it at the shoulder rather than at the bottom. Lengthening can also be done at the shoulder depending on whether there is an extra fabric available. Both are more expensive.

2. Putting on Buttons – YES

A Model 3 jacket from The Armoury before sleeve buttons have been put on

A Model 3 jacket from The Armoury before sleeve buttons have been put on

Speaking of sleeve buttons, when you buy a higher-quality tailored jacket, there will usually not be any buttons on the sleeve, which lets you determine the proper length before you put them on. Obviously, then, this is a necessary and supposedly routine alteration, but it can be tricky getting it done right. Most smaller local tailors or seamstress shops don’t have the ability or equipment to do it and will complain that the job is undesirable for them. Even the usual tailor the author (Dr. Christopher Lee) uses in a Midwestern city can only do it by hand to the tune of $150. Dr. Lee ends up having this done in New York (for $10 a button) at Sam Wazin who is also used by The Armoury. This goes to show that, depending on where you live, a routine tailoring job can be not so routine after all.

3. Fixing Shoulder Divots – MAYBE

Shoulder divot

Shoulder divot on a flannel suit jacket

One sleeve-related alteration that is potentially challenging and expensive is fixing shoulder divots or dimples. These can be created, especially on heavier-weight fabrics like flannels, if:
1) The sleeve is connected to the armhole of the jacket in a way that doesn’t match the way you naturally hold your arms in the resting position, or
2) The armhole is considerably smaller than the sleeve opening that attaches to it.
A tailor can try to fix these issues (around $90 per sleeve by the author’s estimate) by removing the sleeve and rotating it to match your posture or by reducing the size of the sleeve. This is a doable alteration, but results are not 100% guaranteed, and, again, the cost is high.

Alterations to the Body of a Jacket

1. Changing the Button Profile – NO

A three-roll-two button jacket at left vs. a hard three-button at right. Note the different lapel shapes

A three-roll-two button jacket at left vs. a hard three-button at right. Note the different lapel shapes (Tie: Houndstooth Bourette Silk Tie in Burgundy Red Cream – Fort Belvedere)

As noted above, taking in aspects of the body of a jacket are fairly simple, and letting out what is available at the seams is as well. Other alterations to the body are not recommended. One that is commonly asked about is related to the number of buttons. Subtracting buttons, like turning a three-button suit into a two, is not doable because it would require the closure of the additional buttonhole, which cannot be done cleanly. Moreover, the placement of the buttons is different. The same is true for plans to turn a hard three-button or even a two into a three-roll-two buttoning scheme where the top button is rolled under the lapel.

2. Changing the Lapels – MOSTLY NO

Notch and peak lapels

Peak and notch lapels of roughly the same width. Notice the differing buttonhole angles.

If you have a single-breasted jacket you love, but you dislike its peak lapels, it might be possible to turn them into notch lapels if there is sufficient fabric. Peak lapels are usually larger and wider, so the possibility is high unless you are beginning with an anemic peak lapel as shown above. The opposite operation can’t be done, however, because a notch lapel will be smaller, to begin with, and lack the additional “point.” If you want your new notch lapel to be narrower, the underlying canvas will likely have to be cut and reshaped, but if the width stays the same, less work is required.

Peak lapels

Peak lapels

You will almost always face issues with the lapel buttonhole because it’s supposed to run parallel to the top edge of the lapel, which points upward in a peak lapel and downward in a notch; the buttonhole will also be in a different location. If this doesn’t bother you, then it’s something you can explore. However, if you’re going this far to perfect a jacket, you will almost certainly find the imperfect buttonhole angle irritating. With this in mind, the only real alteration recommended with a lapel is adding a hidden boutonniere loop to the underside. This will keep your boutonniere flower “stem” properly aligned. Of course, you can also do this yourself at home.

Boutonniere loop - do it yourself 0031_19

Shown in red thread: a boutonniere keeper loop

3. Reshaping the Quarters of a Jacket – NO

The quarters represent the lower front flaps of your suit jacket panels, the area below the bottom button, also called the skirts of the jacket. These can either be closed, meaning the flaps lie nearly straight down when buttoned, or open, meaning the panels are curved and cut away or flared out when buttoned. The former look is more conservative and business-like, but if you want some Neapolitan bravado, you may think about having your quarters opened. Simply put, however, cutting away and reshaping the panels will affect the button position and cannot be done effectively.

Multipattern Shirt Grey Suit with Rounded Quarters

Rounded open quarters on a gray suit

4. Shortening the Jacket – MAYBE

While lengthening a jacket is impossible because there simply isn’t enough fabric to exploit, shortening from the bottom is possible provided you are only reducing the length by a small amount. If you take off too much length, the pockets and bottom button will be dangerously close to the bottom, which will look even worse than having buttons that are too close to the sleeve edge.

On shortened jackets, the pocket will be close to the bottom border of the jacket

On shortened jackets, the pocket will be close to the bottom border of the jacket

5. Changing the Vent Openings on the Back – MAYBE

These days, the majority of quality suits will be sold with a double vent opening at the back. However, if you own a cheaper single-vented suit or an Italian-style suit with no vent at all, you may have toyed with the possibility of converting the vents. Realistically, you can’t increase the number of vents, because you need to have enough fabric to cover the seam and lining that will be exposed on the edges of the new flaps. On the other hand, closing the vents is possible, since there are ordinarily seams on the back of jackets anyway that can simply be continued all the way to the bottom.

Side vents

Side vents

Alterations to a Suit’s Trousers

Hems, Cuffs and Leg Length on Pants – YES

Following the general principle we began with, pant legs can be made shorter, but they can only be lengthened to the extent of whatever hem material is left at the bottom. Quality dress pants are sold unhemmed with a lot of extra fabric at the bottom, but a tailor will not leave more than a couple of inches under the hem when they’re finished. This extra material can also be turned into cuffs if you desire, so this is another easy alteration, as is the opposite–removing cuffs.

Tan Monk Strap Shoes with beige cuffed pants

Tan Monk Strap Shoes with beige cuffed pants

 

Tapering and Decreasing Leg Width – YES

While legs cannot be made larger, they can easily be tapered, especially from the knee to the bottom if the leg opening is too wide at the bottom (an 8″ opening tends to look best for most). In fact, tapering is one of the easiest alterations.

Ethan Wong wearing high-rise trousers

Ethan Wong’s strategy for attaining a higher rise often involves buying a size up and tapering the legs

Adding to and Subtracting from the Waist – YES

Because it’s commonly understood that waistlines fluctuate in size (we’ve all been there, right?), pants manufacturers are usually pretty generous in providing allowances of material to enlarge the waistband and upper part of the seat from the waist toward your rear end. The exact amount varies by the size, but at least 2-3″ is found at the center rear seam. The opposite can be done as well, also at the rear, to around the same limit. Anything more than 2-3″ will affect the balance of the trousers as the rear pockets get close together. All changes to the waistband should also require some alteration to part of the seat.

Alterations are key

Alterations are key

From these examples, it’s clear that pants are simpler in construction than a jacket, facilitating more ready changes, though, as noted at the start of the article, the rise is the most difficult to change as it requires removing the waistband and replacing the zipper as well.

Conclusion

There are many different alterations that are possible when you examine the components of a suit. Understanding the anatomy of a pair of pants or a tailored jacket will also make you aware of what can and cannot be done. Study the garments you own–look at the seams for allowances, check for previous work, and get a sense of its structure. Then weigh the advice above against your love for the item. You can then decide whether it’s something you are willing to invest in or if you would just prefer to buy something new (or vintage!).

Have you tried any of these alterations with success or failure? Share your stories in the Comments section.

How to Get 80% Off Menswear Every Time: My Secret Step-By-Step Process

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Most people assume that in order to look good and dress well, you need a lot of money, but that’s not necessarily true! Of course, if you’re wealthy, it’s much easier to put together a nice, bespoke wardrobe and look the part. However, there is also a way to do so on a very tight budget–and I’ll share how today!

 

Shop Menswear for 80% Off The Price Tag

Honestly, you can look and feel like a million bucks without spending too much. Don’t believe me? I’ll prove it to you. In part two of this series, I’ll put together an outfit from scratch that retails for more than $3,000 while only paying under $300. The best part is, I don’t even have to step a foot outside my door to do it; I can do it all online. I’ve been shopping online for menswear since 1999 and today, I’m going to share all my secrets, step-by-step with you, so you can also get at least 80% off every time you buy menswear.

1. Know Your Measurements

Without measurements, even a $10,000 garment looks crappy on you, and that’s not the point. The reason we want to dress up and have nice garments is so we look good, and fit is of utmost importance. You might say, “Well, do I really need the measurements? Can’t I just return things, because I already know I’m a size Large or 42 regular?” Of course you can, but shipping things back costs money and frankly, it’s a huge pain to go to the post office or to UPS and return stuff.

Unlike with a bespoke tailor where you look for body measurements, you here want to look for garment measurements. So ideally, you’ll already have one perfectly fitting garment like a jacket so you know what you’re looking for, and then you can punch in those numbers online and make sure you find something that works for you.

Men's measurement guide

Men’s measurement guide

If you’re just starting out and you have no garments, the key is to get proper body measurements, then add a little bit to them and try to find a garment that fits you well. Once you have that, you can refine your garment measurements.

Why is it so important? Every manufacturer has a different sizing system, and what’s regular in one brand may be a whole lot smaller or bigger than that of another brand. Sure, you could just walk into a retail store, try on all their sizes and then go back home and shop online, but that wouldn’t be fair for the retailer. So instead, you can just take your body measurements, estimate your garment measurements, buy something, try it, and then you will see what you’ll need. For example, if the sleeve is too short by an inch, then you can just add that on and you have your garment measurements.

Know Your Measurements

Know your measurements; everyone has their own unique build

Over the years, I’ve found these measurements are the most important things.

Jackets

The four key measurements you need for a jacket are:

  1. Your chest measurements (armpit to armpit laid flat)
  2. The shoulder width, measured from shoulder seam to shoulder seam in the back
  3. The sleeve length, measured from the top of the sleeve to the bottom of the hem around in the middle
  4. The length of the jacket, measured from the base of the collar from the seam all the way down to the hem in the middle

I would say that most vendors on eBay and other platforms adhere to those four measurements. Sometimes though, if they’re amateurish they’ll maybe measure the sleeve length from the armpit, or the entire back length including the collar; so it pays to really read the description carefully so you ensure that the measurements that you have for your garments are actually measured in the same way.

The key is to get the proper body measurement and just add a bit so you can get a garment that fits you well

Trousers

For pants or slacks, it’s even easier, because you just need the inseam measurement and a waist measurement. Of course, if you have big thighs like me, you want to ask for a thigh measurement or make sure that you’re not buying slim-fitting pants.

Inseam and waist measurements are essential

Inseam and waist measurements are essential

Shirts

The most important measurements for shirts are the collar size and the sleeve length, which is traditionally measured from the split yoke (or the center of the yoke) from the back to the end of the sleeve. Sometimes, they measure the sleeve length from the top of the shoulder seam. If that’s the case, you can also measure in the same way and then, in addition to that (just like with a jacket), get your shoulder-to-shoulder measurement. If you have a long torso like me, knowing the overall length of the shirt can also help, because if you have a shirt that always comes undone, it’s just uncomfortable to wear.

Measuring the sleeve length is important as well as measuring the collar size

Shoes

When it comes to shoes, measurements are not really so important. Instead, you should simply know your size. Why? Well, a size in length, for example, will not tell you if the shoe fits, because the width is important in a specific last shape. Of course, different brands have slightly different sizes. Personally, I range between a US 11 or US 11.5 in most brands. However, with Allen Edmonds (depending on what lasts I use), I have a range from 10.5 to 11 and 11.5. Also, if you buy shoes from Europe, such as Italy or England, you may find a European sizing system which, for me, is typically 44.5 to 45 EU or around 10.5 UK.

refined lasts

refined lasts

With the popularity of online shopping for men’s shoes, I’ve even seen brands advertising that “if you have a Crockett & Jones in this size on that last, then get this size in our shoes” or, “if you have Edward Green in this size then get that size in our shoes.” That can be sometimes very helpful to understand; for example, “Hey, I have this pair of Crockett & Jones that fits me really well in this last and size, so in that brand, this will help me.” Places like online forums can oftentimes be very helpful in that regard, because there are a lot of people who have tried many different things.

Accessories

For accessories, measurements can be important, but for example, the length of your tie depends a bit on your height and your torso length as well as the rise of your pants, so unless you know exactly what outfit you want the tie for, it may not be very helpful. If you’re really tall, you should be looking for long ties; If you’re short, look for shorter ties.

In my experience, most sellers will not advertise the length of the tie, so if you want to know it, you have to specifically ask for it and if you really care about length your tie, you’ll probably have to buy something new such as the ties from Fort Belvedere which come in long, regular, and short. But even though I design my own ties and we sell our own brand, I still buy ties on eBay sometimes because I like the different patterns; I like vintage ties, and it’s just fun to see how different fabrics were designed, how they feel, and how they tie up so I can learn something for our ties.

Correct Tie Length with Jacquard Tie

Correct tie length: approximately halfway down the belt buckle (tie: Aqua Green Jacquard Woven Tie with Printed Diamonds in Orange Red and White – Fort Belvedere)

2. Buy Gently Used Garments

The key is that you buy gently used pre-worn garments or garments that are new with tags or without tags from market places such as Facebook Marketplace, Etsy, eBay, or Poshmark. Of course, as with anything vintage or pre-owned, there are various levels of used or pre-worn. Sometimes, items have been worn once or not at all, and they’re in pristine condition. Other times, you’ll find shirts with lots of wear on them; even like collars that are stained or jackets with rips holes and stains.

Personally, I always prefer to buy something that has a lot of wear left in it and it doesn’t have any visible defects. Sure, if there’s a little stain on the lining on the inside or a loose thread that I can fix, well that’s a great way to get a bargain. On the other hand, if something is visible on the outside, you don’t know if a dry cleaner can actually get it out and mending is expensive, too.

 

A stain such as this one, visible on the front of a jacket, may be a deal-breaker if you’re unsure of its origins.

3. Brainstorm Your Outfit

So how do you get an outfit that actually looks good and not something that is really cheap and 80% or 90% off? Well, you have to brainstorm your outfit. I know it can be very tempting to just buy the stuff that has the biggest discount. Reality is, sometimes, those huge discounts especially for new items are there because the item is very special and it’s very difficult to combine and you get very little wear out of it.

Think About Your Specific Needs

Do you need an outfit for an interview? Then you get a dark suit with a white shirt and a tie; or do you want something lively that you can wear to a garden party? Then maybe you get a louder sport coat with a pair of chinos and a patterned shirt. You can even go so far to say, I want a single-breasted 2-button suit with brown shoes and a light blue shirt.

If you go any more detail than that, the problem will be that it’s going to be very hard to find a larger range of items that you can look at–because, at any given point in time, there’s only so much on the market. For example, if you truly want a navy sharkskin suit with brown horn buttons and a ticket pocket, chances are, you have to wait a lot longer and you will even then not find exactly the item you want as used.

So as with many things in life, you have to find a balance and settle somewhere in the middle. Don’t be too wide and just search for a “dark suit” but also don’t be too specific instead search for something like a “dark suit with notched lapel” or “dark brown derby or oxford shoes” and you will find plenty of items. Honestly, it’s really important that you sit down and think about what you want, otherwise, eBay and all these marketplaces can be like a black hole where you’ll just be wasting money going through thousands and thousands of listings and your time is worth something, too.

Searching for specific details may result in a long wait or the item not being available.

4. Search For Garments In A Smart Order

Once you know your garment measurements and sizes and you know exactly what the type of outfit you want, I suggest you start searching for the jacket first, then the pants, the shirt, and then the accessories. So why do I search in that order? Well, to get the fit right for a jacket is more difficult than with a dress shirt, for example, or a tie and even pants. Also, jackets generally come in more different patterns, sizes, and they often have more details and they’re typically also more expensive, so I want to give myself the largest possible room to find something that I truly like and it fits.

Always start the search with a jacket, because finding the right fit could be more difficult than the others

At any given point in time, they’re probably also more shirts and specifically pants on the market and jackets, so if I’m not in the market for a suit, I choose the pants second so I know it really harmonizes well with a jacket because they can be the greatest trousers in the world but if they clash with my jacket, it’s not going to work for my outfit. Only after the jacket and pants should you add the shirt, because you can find all kinds of solid shirts or patterned shirts, and you just want to make sure that if you have different patterns and colors, they won’t conflict with one another. Finally, if you have those three pieces together, you can add some accessories to taste.

My Steps To Getting Great Menswear Deals

Now that we have those guidelines out of the way, let’s go to the actual search. Generally, your query should be in the right range between too vague and too specific. For example, I’m typically a 42 regular in most jackets, so I start searching for “41, 42, 43, and 44,” because I know with some Italian brands to typically run small and I need a 44 regular there. A lot of times, people have a very different understanding of what a short jacket or a long jacket or a regular means, so I typically drop the regular and just search for “41, 42, 43, and 44.” Keep in mind not everyone is an expert and the measurements are sometimes also slightly wrong, so I just want to be in the right range.

Some brands may run smaller compared to others

1. Prepare Questions To Ask The Seller

Sometimes, you might also encounter sellers that don’t share measurements. They just say, “Oh, it’s 42 regular or it’s size L.” Well, that’s not really helpful–but this can work in your favor because you can ask the seller what the measurements are. Typically, they will share them with you but they won’t even put them on the listing, which means there’s less competition for you. I maintain a Google document with canned questions,  including the one shown below. That way, I can make sure that they’re measuring exactly in the same way that I measured my own garments.

canned message

Maintain a Google document with a canned message that you can easily send to a seller each time you find a jacket you like

If a listing does provide measurements, compare it to your own and sometimes also keep in mind that measurement to a quarter inch is not that accurate because a fabric is typically flexible and you don’t know if they measure it when it was lying flat, which is what they should have done if the button was buttoned or not, and so there’s always a little bit of variation that you have to keep in mind.

2. Use The Online Platform’s Functions

Certain platforms allow you to filter also for sleeve length. Facebook Marketplace, for example, doesn’t have much for that. Poshmark, also not so much but on eBay, there are more functions so you can look for sleeve length or the length, which makes things easier especially if there are thousands of items. Personally, I find for classic menswear that eBay is best because of the best prices but also the best and largest selection.

If a listing does provide measurements, compare it to your own but keep in mind that it will not always be accurate.

3. Go To A Specific Category

On eBay, a great way to narrow down your search to only the things you truly want is to first go to the right category of things you’re interested in, then you can add additional filters on the side such as color or a specific size, and that’s a good way to search for it. Typically, I start my search by going to the right category and then just searching, for example, for 42 Purple Label because it’s a brand Ralph Lauren Purple Label for example and I know that it’s a good brand and know that it’s something I’ve bought in the past and I know what size I have in that brand.

Once I get a limited amount of listings, I scroll through and see what I like and I use a tool called Linkclump that allows me to quickly open many links in one go. At this time, I’m not even looking at the listing or just opening up the links in new tabs then later on I can compare every product one by one next to each other in quick succession.

You can also make a specific search such as “42 purple label”

When it comes to pants, I typically only search for the waist size, because there are many inseam lengths. Some better pants especially if they’re newer are unhemmed, but it’s also very easy to make a pair of pants shorter, so oftentimes you can get really great deals on pants that are let’s say, “36-35” or “36-34” because there are so many people out there with legs that long.

Also, if you have a 32-inch inseam and you find a pair of pants with cuffs and a 31 inseam, you could let them out so keep that in mind. Alteration for something that typically costs anywhere between $12 to $20, depending on where you live in the US. Personally, I like cuffs, so I always prefer to have pants shortened rather than lengthened because with the lengthening, sometimes there can be an issue if the pants have been worn at the edge and when you let it out you see that the fabric has been worn in one particular area.

Raphael likes his pants cuffed so he prefers them shortened rather than lengthened

4. Narrow Down Your Search

If I find that there’s too much stuff in a category or see a lot of listings from new things that I don’t like, I select pre-owned only and may be at a color. Remember, not every seller describes their item perfectly. Sometimes, they just have a picture and the measurements and that’s it.

5. Search For A Brand

So in the first place, you want to cast a very wide net and that means that you can also search for misspelled brand names. For example, looking for a shirt, there is an Italian brand Borrelli which makes great shirts but if you misspell it with just one R, you fly under the radar and that’s something where you can really score a bargain. Same with Allen Edmonds; it has an O but sometimes people think it’s Edmunds.

Allen Edmonds

Allen Edmonds

You also don’t have to search for the entire brand name but just parts of it. Rather than looking for Ralph Lauren Purple Label, you can just search for Purple Label because there are not that many suits that have the description “Purple” and “Label” in it. Also, you can search for variations such as “RLPL.”

6. Set a Budget Range

If you’re on a strict budget, you can also limit the search results by how much you’re willing to spend but keep in mind that oftentimes, you can make offers on expensive stuff that is 30% or 50% off the listing price of eBay. So let’s say, your budget is $200 and you set a limit, there may be a jacket listed for $220 you could actually buy for $120 but you’re not even seeing it because you’ve excluded it with a filter.

7. Open Items In Different Tabs

Typically, I find around 20 items that I can then compare. If you open more tabs in your browser and you don’t have a lot of memory, your whole browser might crash and you have to start all over, so keep that in mind. Personally, I have 64 gigabytes of RAM, so I can have actually 80 tabs open and it still all works. The advantage of looking at items tab by tab is that you can compare much more easily. If you know that you already liked it visually, now you just look at the measurements, if something doesn’t fit, you click it away. If you like something, keep it open and just go through.

You can use a tool like Linkclump to open several links at a time

That’s the first selection process then in a second one, you do it again. If you look at all the items that you liked that potentially fit you and double-check the measurements, double-check the photos very closely, so you can see if there is any damage because sometimes, people just take a photo of the damage but they don’t describe the damage. That way, you narrow down your choices more and more.

8. Have A Watch List

In the next step, I add the items to my watch list. Why do I do that? Well in the one hand, it gives me a nice overview on eBay to look at all the things that I liked that I thought would fit me and on top of that, the seller gets a notification that you’re watching something so I would say in about 30% of the cases, the seller will send out an offer that is below their asking price just for me. I find that if someone sends me an offer, that’s a great bargaining ground because I already know they’re motivated to sell so I can get maybe even a lower price that even works better for me.

Sometimes a seller would send you an offer once they see that you’ve added their items on your watchlist.

Again, one of those reasons I urge you not to filter by price too much, because you may be missing out on stuff that you really like and you just think is out of your price range. Personally, I only ever buy at a listing price when a deal is so good that negotiating wouldn’t make sense. For example, if the shirt is just $10, negotiating and wasting time to get $2 off is not really worth it. On the other hand, if the jacket is $150 and I can get it for $75 that’s probably worth two minutes of my time.

9. Make An Offer

When you watch an item and you’re not getting an offer, in many cases you can also make an offer to the seller. Remember, always be friendly and kind because that way, they’re much more likely to give you a discount than if you’re rude. For example, many listings on eBay have a “make an offer” button and even if a seller doesn’t have that button, you can still reach out to them and say, “Hey, I’m really interested in this but my budget is X. Could you help me out here?” Even if they reply with a bit of pushback, this still shows you they’re motivated to sell, so maybe you can come in and even provide a more aggressive offer.

Use the Make an Offer option

But again, always be nice, be kind, just explain to them that you’d love to have the item but you just can’t afford anything more. Don’t make them feel like you just want to squeeze them like a lemon. Almost all of them have a “make an offer” button, but they automatically set a limit at what they accept as an offer and at what limit should be declined. So, if you get a decline message right away, you know it was an auto-decline and you could just reach out to them and just see where they’re at because now, they may be in a different state than when they originally set the decline offering threshold.

Do’s and Don’ts of Shopping Discounted Garments Online

Now that you’re in the basics of how I search to get 80% off outfits from eBay, here are a few more do’s and don’ts that are very important and sometimes, a bit more advanced. 

DO: Search For As Few Brand Names As Possible

So, rather than looking for Ralph Lauren look for “Lauren.” Also, do a search for misspelled names.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label

Ralph Lauren Purple Label

DO: Search For Specific Sizes

If you’re size 11 and shoes search for “Edmonds 11” not “Allen Edmonds.” Yes, there is a size selector on the left bar, but do not just rely on that, because some sellers don’t know about the size selector, they don’t set their size, they just put it in the description and you would miss out on them if you don’t also use the description feature.

Search for specific shoe sizes

DO: Search On Your Desktop Browser

When you buy on eBay, search on your desktop browser, because it gives you the option to also search through the entire description in the advanced options which is not something you have on the app. Why is it so important? Well, if you can search the entire description, oftentimes, you can search for specific things like patch pockets or maybe a length or a size or they may not be enough space in a product tagline.

Sven Raphael Schneider wears a patch pocket sports coat with a turtleneck, navy trousers and navy and gray suede u-cap brogues

Sven Raphael Schneider wears a patch pocket sports coat with a turtleneck, navy trousers and navy and gray suede u-cap brogues (Pocket square: Off White Rabbits on Wine Red Silk Wool Pocket Square – Fort Belvedere)

DO: Search For Specific Brands

Just looking at a category in menswear typically yields too many results.

Search on your desktop browser because it gives you the option to also search through the entire description in the advanced options which is not something you have on the app

DO: Search For A Specific Sub-brand

For example, I’m interested in Polo Ralph Lauren and in Purple Label Ralph Lauren. I’m not interested in Chaps or Green Label Ralph Lauren, so that means I would just search for “Lauren Polo 42,” if I was interested in a jacket or a suit or maybe “Lauren Purple 42.” By doing that, you don’t have to sift through all the stuff that you don’t want in the first place.

DO: Make Offers

Also, as I mentioned, make offers on items even though there may not be an “offer” button. You can even make offers on things like auctions that don’t have a “Buy It Now” price.

Always make offers; just remember to be always polite and kind

DO: Put Yourself In The Seller’s Shoes

Always think, “Well, they’d like to sell something and I’d like to get it off their hands. They’d like to deal with someone who is efficient and not mean.”

DO: Use A Sniper Tool

If you don’t participate in the bidding, definitely use a sniper tool. Why is that? Well, auctions end at a specific point in time and when you start bidding early, what can happen is someone who may only think that want to bid $50 on it may end up changing their mind and bidding $75 on it because they really, really want it and they have time to think about it. If you use a sniper tool, you can decide how much you’re willing to spend on an item without actually spending more than you originally intended to and you can just set it so it sends to bid three seconds before the auction ends so no one has time to react to your bid. That’s leading ultimately to a lower price for you.

 

You can set your budget with a sniper tool and it will send that three seconds before the bid ends

DON’T: Use Long Search Phrases

I’d say, in general, avoid long search phrases unless you’re overwhelmed with search results, then you can try to get longer and longer at a time.

DO: Exclude Negative Keywords in Your Search

For example, on eBay adding a minus (-) or a dash directly in before a word excludes it from your search, and that can be really helpful if you see a lot of listings that don’t work for you. For example, if you’re looking for a jacket, you can exclude “quilted” or if you want to exclude a certain color or a country, you just add a minus before that word.

As seen on ebay

DO: Use A String Search To Narrow Down Your Results

Use quotes so it says, “Lauren Purple Label”, so it only shows you results where these words are exactly in that order.

DO: Sort and Filter Your Results

For example, if you’re on a budget you can say, “I want to display the cheapest item first, including shipping and I only want items that are yellow.” So, use the platform’s tool to sort and filter that out.

Use the Advanced Search to search more effectively

DO: Search For Materials

For example, if you know you want a summer jacket maybe add “linen” to your search string. If you want something for the winter, add “cashmere.” You may also want to search for just “pure cashmere” or “100% cashmere” for jackets, for example. That way, you know you get a more expensive item because, typically, 100% cashmere items are rather pricey.

yellow linen

yellow linen jacket

DON’T: Buy Orphaned Suit Jackets

A lot of times on eBay, especially professional sellers, have single striped jackets in pinstripes and they’re simply orphan suit jackets and you can’t really wear them with anything else, so even though they may be really inexpensive and they may have a really high retail price, it’s a bad purchase because you can’t really wear it without looking stupid.

An orphaned suit jacket will always be a bad purchase.

DO: Watch Items & Make Offers

I’ve already said before that you should watch items (in your watch list) and you should make offers but I just want to reiterate it because it’s so important.

DO: Visit A Seller’s Store

Last but not least, if you find an item from a seller that you like, check out their other items or visit their store because more often than not, I find that they may have items from the same person so you find a garment that fits you perfectly. They may have three others may be from different brands, maybe even better brands, smaller brands, less well-known brands, that you haven’t thought about, that you have found through the search but you already know it’s going to fit you based on the measurements of that one jacket.

Check out the seller’s store and you might find other items that might fit you perfectly.

On top of that, most sellers are willing to give you a discount if you buy more than one item from them because it saves money for them on shipping and logistics and it’s just easier for them, so they are happy to give you a discount.

BONUS 1: Have A List Of Quality Brands

I suggest you put together a list of quality brands because ideally, you want to search for brands that have very high quality but also a very good value ratio, and stay clear of items such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, or Armani, because those things are so popular that they’re often faked–and even if they’re original, they’re often very expensive for what you get.

Stay clear of items such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci or Armani because those things are so popular that they’re often faked and even if they’re original, they’re often very expensive for what you get.

So to help you get started, I put together a list of brands for jackets and pants and shirts that I think are really good and that I would search for on eBay so that can get you a kick-start and then you can add on things as you search and find new vendors and brands.

TypeBrand
GeneralChester Barrie
Berle
Bijan
Ralph Lauren Purple Label England
Ralph Lauren Purple Label Italy
Vintage Polo
RRL
Sartoria
Partenopea
Pini Parma
Kiton
Isaia
Attolini
Brioni
Belvest
Caruso
Corneliani
Carroll Co.
Cantarelli
Castanga
D’Avenza
Zegna
J Press
Andover Shop
Canali
Daks London
Magee
Oxxford
Bespoke
St Andrews / Saint Andrews
Sulka
Luciano Barbera
Domenico Vacca
Borrelli
Pal Zileri
Regent (German brand)
LBM
Brunello Cucinelli
Lanvin
Loro Piana
Orazio Luciano
Phineas Cole
Paul Stuart
Stefano Ricci
Alan Flusser
Martin Greenfield
Harris Tweed
StoresStanley Korshak
Carroll Co.
Bergdorf Goodman
Neiman Marcus
Louis Boston
Tyrone
De Corato
SweatersJohn Malloy
Doogan
Cloughaneely
TiesRobert Talbott
ShirtsBarba
Charvet
Eton
Turnbull & Asser
Borrelli
Attolini
Kiton
Brioni
100 Hands
Finamore
Marol
Battistoni
Barney’s
Thomas Pink
Zegna
Luciano Barbera
Ledbury
Gitman Bros
ShoesPeal & Co.
Crockett & Jones
Gaziano & Girling
Ralph Lauren Purple Label
Online PlatformsFacebook Marketplace
Ebay
Etsy
Poshmark

BONUS 2: Space Out The Time You Spend Searching

If you made it through here, that may all seem like there’s a lot to do and yes, you have to be persistent. And I urge you to check regularly for a limited amount of time rather than a lot of time in one day, so rather spend maybe half an hour or an hour once a week or once every two weeks than 8 hours on a Saturday. Why? Well, the offering constantly changes, and by looking longer in one day, you likely don’t magically find new stuff but two weeks down the line you may have 30% more or new items. Happy shopping!

Have you tried these techniques to score great menswear deals? Share your experience in the comments!

$4000+ Summer Outfit for Under $300: Techniques for Online Menswear Shopping

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Looking good and having nice custom-made suits and bespoke shoes when you have a lot of money is relatively easy. On the other hand, if you’re on a really tight budget, it can be a lot harder–or at least, that’s the common perception! In an effort to debunk it, here’s how I was able to purchase an outfit online for over 90% off.

 

In Part 1 of this series, I already shared with you all the tips and tricks I’ve learned since 1999 on how to get men’s clothing on a budget. Here, I take the theory, turn it into practice, and show you that I actually got a summer outfit for more than 90% off of its retail price. Honestly, you can do it, too, and I’ll prove it to you by showing three different combinations that evolved around one jacket.

Growing up, I didn’t have a lot of money, so I had to learn to make my dollar or my euro go further. I started using eBay 1999 when I was fourteen years old and I quickly learned the ins and outs of it. In this second part of our series on how to buy quality menswear online for less, I’ll show you how I put together an outfit that retails for $4,315 and I just paid $255 for it. I’ll also show you how you can do it on your own, so you end up with something at a very steep discount. 

My $4000+ Summer Outfit for Under $300

Summer is here, and while you can get better deals buying winter clothes during the summer season and vice versa, I decided to get a summer outfit during summer to show that this concept even holds true when it’s a little more expensive.

Raphael wearing 3 summer outfit variations

The Jacket

When you buy an outfit, you should always start with a jacket or a suit, because that’s the most expensive item and the most difficult one to get to fit right.

First, I looked on Facebook Marketplace, on Poshmark, and on Etsy, and then finally on eBay; and eBay had by far the best selection. Armed with the knowledge of all of my measurements, I looked for a jacket in a 42 or a 44. I also knew that I wanted something that was summery, ideally with patch pockets to underline the casual character of the jacket. I wasn’t really interested in a suit, and went for a combination. All the principles outlined in part one work just as well with a suit, though.

Jacket pockets formality scale

As patch pockets are the least formal option, they’ll contribute to a casual feel on a jacket

 

 

So after going through many listings, doing some searching, and comparing measurements, I narrowed it down to two jackets that ironically even came from the same vendor.

One was a light gray pinpoint jacket from Borrelli (an Italian brand) and it had three nice patch pockets, a three-roll two style with notch lapels and side vents. The fabric was a woolcashmere blend which is usually pretty soft. A jacket from Borrelli retails around €1200 which is about $1,300. The eBay list price was $119.99. The photos looked good, the jacket looked clean, there was no damage, and the description confirmed that.

A Borrelli jacket in a light grey pinpoint, single beasted 3-roll 2 style jacket with patch pockets, side vents.

The next jacket that seemed a good fit was from Isaia which is also an Italian brand from Naples. Today, they’re mainly known for their “Red Line” and their smart marketing with a piece of coral, which is commonly found in Naples, as their lapel pin decoration. Isaia also has a budget line called Gian Luca Napoli and so a lot of people get it confused but I knew that before they had the Red Label their mainline was the Gianluca Isaia Napoli so I knew quality-wise, this was the same level as the highly regarded Red Line. That’s one of the reasons it’s so important to build your knowledge about brands if you want to find good deals online.

I think Isaia switched to the Red Line labels in around 2006, so I knew the jacket was about 15 years old. Some people may be put off by wearing clothes that are 15 to 20 years old, but if the garment is hardly worn, and has been stored properly, you always get a very clean, timeless classic men’s style. So, onlookers would never be able to tell whether a jacket is 2 years old or 20 years old.

This Isaia cashmere cotton blazer was bought for $75

Even if I had not known about the details of the brand, I could recognize the finely sewn handmade buttonholes with a silk thread and assumed that it’s a quality jacket just because of that, because it’s not something you’ll find on inexpensive jackets. And typically, if they put a lot of time and effort into the buttonholes, they do the same with the rest of the jacket. The original list price on eBay was $139.99. Again, it seemed to be in great condition, it had this beautiful pastel color which I liked.

Putting The Items In A Watch List

I watched both of the jackets–the Borrelli and the Isaia. Both of these listings weren’t the traditional auction but a “buy it now.” When I watched it, I got an offer from the seller for both jackets that were below the list price. Now I knew he was motivated to sell, so I sent him a message asking if he would give me both of the jackets shipped for $150 if I bought them together. after all, that would save him on shipping and he gets rid of something. He agreed to that.

You need to be knowledgeable about the product you are trying to buy to be able to negotiate effectively on the price.

Both jackets arrived just stuffed in one “priority mail” package but when they came out they had hardly any wrinkles. Generally, that’s a sign of a nice fabric unless of course, you get maybe a linen garment. Sadly, the Borelli jacket actually had a little stain in between the buttons (which wasn’t visible in the pictures or mentioned in the description). So, I reached out to the seller and he offered a $10 refund, but that’s usually not enough to go to the dry cleaners. Even if I were to agree to that, I wouldn’t know if the stain would come out, because it may have been set in the garment for a decade or longer and you just don’t know. He also offered, of course, to take it back because it was their fault, and so I agreed to send it back to them for a full refund.

Even though both listings had the same measurements, the jacket fit differently. I felt that the gray one was a bit longer and also wider in the shoulders. The green one fits me much better. So keep in mind, just because someone provides measurements doesn’t mean they’re 100% accurate; trying a garment on and seeing how it works for you is the best way to determine if it’s right for you. At the same time, the measurements really help you to dial things in so you don’t end up with stuff you just have to return.

These two jackets were a steal for $150–however, Raphael had to return the Borelli blazer (R) to the seller because of a stain

Right out of the box, I could see it was nice handwork underneath the collar and even a sleeve had a typical Neapolitan, kind of waterfall sleeve-head or sleeve wrinkles. The fit of the green Isaia jacket was really nice. It had high armholes, there was a good range of movement. It felt extremely comfortable and it looked quite good out of the box without any alterations, except for the sleeves because they’re on the shorter side (but I knew that, because typically my sleeves are about 25.5 inches long or 26 inches). This one was listed as only being 25 but I knew that I could let it out because it was in good condition.

Also with higher-end jackets, they are usually more fabric reserves so I could maybe try to have the sleeve lengthened from the top but you need a very skilled alterations tailor to do that, and it’s typically also more expensive. If I just let the sleeve out at the bottom, it’ll probably cost me around $50 in the alterations tailor. Normally, I wear garments for a little bit just to figure out if I want to let it out by how much, but for this jacket, I’m pretty sure I’m going to do it.

The Pants

Once I had my jacket and I knew what it looked like, I could continue with the pants. First, I picked up a pair of Polo Ralph Lauren seersucker pants because they’re very lightweight and summery at $30. I found one that didn’t come in a typical blue and white color, but in a beige and white color. I figure it would look quite nice with the green jacket, and create that summery feel I was going for.

Beige and white seersucker trousers

Beige and white seersucker trousers

Of course, I wanted to show you some different outfits so you don’t think this was just a one-off thing but I truly believe that you can repeat this process and get the same results. So, I got a second pair of pants in a brownish cavalry twill which is a little heavier than the seersucker, but still appropriate for summer. Lastly, I got a pair of glen check pants in a cotton fabric, which is rather unusual, also in kind of a brown tone.

An alternative outfit featuring brown glen check trousers

An alternative outfit featuring brown glen check trousers

Both of those were vintage Polo Ralph Lauren. One of them came even new with tags. They retailed for $125, but the cavalry twill one cost me $37.50, and the other one only cost me $17.99–shipped. I say that because sometimes a listing can be $5 but then the shipping costs $23. So, at the end of the day, what matters is the full amount you pay. 

The Shirt

Now that I had a jacket and pants that would work well, I could select the right shirt. In the process, I bought a bunch of different shirts because in this series, I want to do a separate piece on shirts alone and what you should look for, so stay tuned for parts 3 and 4!

For the seersucker pants, I wanted a casual look. Maybe something in linen or maybe a denim shirt. Generally, I think finding pants and jackets that are very gently used, pre-worn is relatively easy. When it comes to shirts though, a lot of pre-worn shirts are worn heavily and sometimes completely worn out. Some may have nice brand names and people put them on eBay thinking someone is going to pick them up because of that. But even if you have a shirt that retails for $1,000, if it’s worn out or if you get it at just $20 or $10 and you can’t wear it, it’s worthless. So, looking very closely at pictures in the largest version possible is key for shirts.

Checking the collar would give you an idea if a shirt is already worn out.

Typically, a shirt wears out at the shirt cuff. If you have a barrel cuff, it’s usually at the edges first, if you have a double cuff or french cuff, it usually starts to wear at the crease on the cuff where you fold it. Also, you can look at the tip of the collar because that’s where it typically wears fast, or at the upper edge of the collar where it wears second. Of course, if you see stains in the armpit area or around the collar, you’ll know that the shirt has been worn a lot and it’s probably not something you want to invest your money in.

For example, I bought a nice looking striped shirt from Borrelli which retails for about $300, has a lot of handwork, the fabrics are really nice and it was advertised as being in great condition without any visible flaws. When I got the shirt, the collar tips were already worn and so were the edges of the sleeve cuffs. I knew the shirt was almost at the end of its life, so I returned it.

Don’t forget to check the stitching on the collar and cuffs of a secondhand shirt

For this outfit, I found a denim shirt from Eton which retails for $195. One thing I like about Eton is that they have longer sleeves, and I have longer arms so it typically works for me. Their slim fit is very attractive; it’s not boxy but it’s also not super slim so it works for me.

In their Red Line, they also have nice fabrics and help them treat them with an anti-iron coating that is much better than other stuff you can find in the industry. They don’t have much handwork, but the buttons are sewn with Ascolite, so I know they’ll never come off. Overall, the fabrics are of very good quality. At the same time, it’s not a brand that everyone knows so the listing price on eBay was just $25 for a shirt that was in pretty good shape. I made an offer and got it for $20, shipped.

This Eton denim shirt retails for $195 but Raphael got it for $20

Because it has a casual button-down collar and overall it’s a very casual combination, I decided to skip a tie for this outfit–but I wanted a pocket square and I added one from eBay which cost $15. It’s no name but it worked color-wise with a shirt and a jacket

The Shoes

Next up, I needed shoes. You can find tons of high-end brand shoes, like Allen Edmonds, on eBay. I wanted something in the lighter brown or tan range that would work with a summery outfit. I found a pair of Meermin in cognac tan, and it’s a brand that is in general relatively inexpensive for the value and quality you get. You’re not necessarily going to get huge savings, but it’s still a good brand and still a good shoe, and you have to kind of see what’s available at any given point in time.

This Meermin shoes retail for $195, Raphael got it for $56

The shoes I got retail for $195, and they were in an auction format. I won the auction for $56 but with the shipping, it came to $70.32. The funny thing was when I got the shoes, the seller added a note and said “Thank you very much for all the videos. I really appreciate the Gentleman’s Gazette.” I appreciate it, of course!

I like the color of the shoes. I was wondering if I could make them even nicer and so I sent them over to my friend Preston Soto from The Elegant Oxford to give them a nice shine and look. When they come back, we’ll give them away to one lucky winner. They’re a size 10 UK on the HIRO last. So, stay tuned for the giveaway!

The Belt

For the belt, the cognac tan one from the Fort Belvedere belt system would have worked really well but it’s a little more expensive because it’s really high quality and you can exchange everything. So for the purposes of this post, it wasn’t a good fit. I looked around to hopefully find something that was roughly in the same color which can be difficult, because the photos are sometimes shot with different white balances–so even though they may look the same in the pictures, they may actually not look the same when you get them. But in general, I just wanted something that was close enough, so I got a belt from Polo Ralph Lauren for $30, which retails for $75.

This Polo Ralph Lauren belt was a good deal for $30

Nothing special but it does the job. I’m a size 36 belt. If you’re smaller like 30 or 28, you’re going to find tons of belts, sometimes even alligator for $30, which is really incredible.

The Socks

For the socks, I bought a pair of new Falke socks, which is a German brand. I got them for $15 and they retail for about $20 or $25. They have some polyester and they’re not as nice as my Fort Belvedere socks, but I truly wanted to put together an outfit that was very affordable and that had no Fort Belvedere items in it.

This Falke socks originally retails at $20-$25

How Much Did The Whole Outfit Cost?

Alright, now have you seen the first outfit, let’s go through the retail price breakdown and how much I paid for it. 

  • The Isaia jacket was $3695;
  • The seersucker pants had a retail price of $120;
  • The Eton denim shirt retailed for $195;
  • The Meermin shoes retailed at $195;
  • The pocket square, I just left at $15 because I didn’t get the exact price;
  • The belt was $75; and
  • The socks being $20.

That gives us a total of $4,315 retail value.

This outfit originally retails for $4315 but Raphael got it for $255.32 –$3o5.32 if we account for the $50 spent on alterations

So what did I pay?

  • $75 for Isaia jacket;
  • $30 for the Ralph Lauren pants;
  • $20 for the shirt;
  • $15 for the pocket square;
  • $70.32 for the shoes;
  • The belt was $30; and 
  • The socks $15.

So, that adds up to $255.32 That’s the equivalent of 94% off! Even if I account for the $50 in alterations costs, I go up to $305.32 which is still 93% off!

Again, this wasn’t pure luck but it’s the result of a process. Because of that, I used the same jacket but made some changes for the other items to show you that it’s actually true.

Outfit # 2

  • I changed up the seersucker trousers for the cavalry twill. The retail was $125, I got them for $37.50.
  • Instead of a denim Eton shirt, I got a white Eton shirt for $20, which also retailed for $195.
  • The tie I bought for $5, shipped from eBay and it’s a nice blue and yellow stripe tie, very thin in a kind of summery fabric. It came from a brand called Personality Milano which I’m not familiar with, but probably retailed around $20.
  • For a pocket square, I could have picked a white linen one on eBay, but I already have really nice ones from Fort Belvedere, especially with the hand-embroidered initial and hand-rolled edges, so I just used that. The retail prices are at $65.
  • When it comes to socks, I’m a big fan of two-tone socks because they’re so easy to combine. I picked a pair of Fort Belvedere socks in navy and yellow which picks up the colors of the tie and it retails for $40. Of course, you could have also found a new pair of socks, maybe striped or otherwise on eBay for less.

The total retail value of this outfit is $4,410. I paid $342.82 for it and that includes the Fort Belvedere items at retail price. Still, that’s 92% off the retail price! If I account for alterations (shortening the hem of the pants for $15 and the sleeves of the jacket for $50), it is still a great deal.

This outfit originally retails at $4,410, Raphael got it for $342.82 including some Fort Belvedere items at their retail price

Outfit #3

For the third outfit, I wanted to incorporate more patterns. So I chose:

  • A pair of pants in a glen check pattern which was brown and light brown which I thought worked really well with the jacket. Retail price $125, I got it for $17.99 because it was used. It was described as a herringbone pattern (which is not true), but I looked at it, liked it, and got a deal.
  • The shirt I picked up is from Luciano Barbera which is not a really well-known brand but Mr. Barbara is a really good dresser and has an impeccable sense of style, which is also reflected in his clothes. While their shirts don’t have the same level of handwork detail as a Borrelli or Eton, it’s still a high-quality shirt that uses very nice fabrics. They also have little details, for example, the sleeve folds, which should help you give more movement with a smaller armhole. The fabric is really nice. It has green and white stripes with elements of blue, with a hint of purple.

If you add up the retail value for this outfit, you get about $4560, Raphael paid $266.29 and if you had $50 for the alterations, it’s $316.29. Still about 90% savings!

  • For the tie, I chose a green linen one with a really oversized polka dot in white which is very summery. It retailed for $125, I bought it on eBay for $5. You can tell it’s an older tie because it’s much wider, about 3.5 inches.
  • For the pocket square, I went with a no-name linen one that had really small dots and a contrast edge in beige that would pick up the color of the pants but also the polka dots of the tie, and thus, tie everything together. Also, the dots in the pocket square are a lot smaller than the dots on the tie, so it works harmoniously together even though they are all different patterns.
  • For the socks, again, I went with a pair of two-tone socks in brown and green which tied everything beautifully together with the shoes and the pants

So if you add up the retail value for this outfit, you get about $4560; I paid $266.29 and if you add $50 for the alterations, it’s $316.29. Again, huge savings–way over 90%!

Are The Savings Worth The Time?

Naturally, it sounds great to get such a big discount but you always have to be honest with yourself and ask, “How much time did it take me to put together this outfit?” and “How much could I have earned during this time?” or “What would have been the spare time worth to me if I hadn’t served for that stuff?” The math is different for everyone, of course, because some people earn more, others like shopping, others hate it, so it’s something that you have to come up with and add it to the overall cost.

As seen on ebay

For me, it took me about 12 hours from start to finish, including the returns of the items, searching for things, comparing them, communicating with the sellers, getting them, and so forth. So, that’s a not-insignificant amount of time, in my mind. Nevertheless, if you’re on a very tight budget and you can invest a little bit of time, you can get great results and huge discounts.

Did you enjoy this outfit assembly post format? I could do another one like this for other types of outfits. Let us know in the comments!

Summer Shoes: A Gentleman’s Guide

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Summer outfits are distinctly different from fall/winter ensembles, and one aspect that is often overlooked is the choice of shoes. Therefore, this guide is all about summer shoes for men and the more casual styles every gentleman should have in his wardrobe.

The classic dress shoes such as Oxfords, Derbies and Bluchers aren’t seasonal and one way to give them a special pop in the summer months is by adding a little sprezzatura to them with colorful laces. However, unlike the standard dress shoes, there are a number of casual shoes men can adopt in the warmer months that look great with a variety of outfits.

Basic Summer Shoes For Men

Ace Marks Penny Loafers

Ace Marks Penny Loafer

Loafers

There are a number of different styles of loafers which give gentlemen a nice range to choose from based on their attire that day. Many men often misconstrue the loafer as being any slip-on shoe or driving moc, but in fact, they are in a league of their own.

The best thing about the loafer is that it provides a cool summer look that can work with both casual and business-appropriate apparel. This makes it one of the most versatile shoes in the summer collection and a must-have shoe for men. Available in both leather and in suede, there are a variety of styles such as the penny loafer, the Gucci loafer, and the tassel loafer, which is perfect for business attire.

A tassel or penny loafer pairs elegantly with a seersucker blazer and linen trousers, whereas a suede one will work marvelously with a pair of shorts and a polo shirt at the beach. Regardless of what you decide to wear with them, they always remain dashingly cool and sophisticatedly nonchalant as one struts around. Unlike the boat shoe or driving moc, wearing socks with loafers is standard practice so it is a perfect choice of footwear if you’ll be attending someone’s home where they encourage guests to take their shoes off upon entry. This way, you don’t have to walk around barefoot. However, one of the best parts of wearing loafers as a summer shoe is the ability to break the rules once you’ve mastered them. For more information about this shoe, explore our in-depth loafer guide.

Sperry TopSider Boat Shoes

Sperry TopSider Boat Shoes

Boat Shoes

Quintessentially preppy, the boat shoe is arguably one of the most prominently seen casual shoes in summer resort towns. Originally designed as practical footwear for sailing, they became a staple in the wealthier Northeastern beach communities before making their way across the United States and around the world. Today, boat shoes are found on the feet of gentlemen who parade down the boardwalk or streets in summer as a rakish flip of the bird to their usual business attire and the man — much as the Ivy Leaguers did in the 60s with clothing.

Worn generally without socks, boat shoes are typically made from leather, suede or even canvas, and they utilize a non-slip sole with water-resistant uppers and a unique lacing system.  Click here to learn more about boat shoes in our detailed guide and videoclick here to get the original boat shoe from Sperry, or take a look at our list of recommended pairs in our guide.

A great driving moc from Allen Edmonds

A great driving moc from Allen Edmonds

Driving Mocs

The most popular moccasin-style shoe, the Driving Moc is technically not a genuine moccasin but rather a new derivation by Diego Della Vale from Tod’s from Italy. Known by the knobs that peek through the sole of the shoe, driving mocs were often worn by men as a shoe kept in their car to keep the interior of the cabin free from dirt and debris that would collect on their outdoor shoes.

Today, these shoes are a summer shoe, worn barefoot with everything from shorts to casual trousers. Unlike the loafer, they are more casual and not very elegant or even well made. Therefore, they shouldn’t be worn with a business suit, but rather work best with casual wear for a stroll on the boardwalk or a day of shopping. Traditionally made from leather, they are another slip-on shoe that has become very popular as a way of introducing bright colors into a more traditional wardrobe. Although they do come in black and brown, invest in some fun colors such as green, blue or red suede for a summery look. Note that pastel tones are better than bright colors because they make you look supremely well dressed without looking ostentatious. For more information, a buying guide and style tips, click here.

A man wearing a driving moc in the summer

A man wearing a driving moc in the summer

Nice-to-Have Summer Shoes

A pair of distressed white bucks from the 1970s

A pair of distressed white bucks from the 1970s

White Bucks

The white buck emerged as part of the trad style, which formed as a more traditional take on the casual preppy and Ivy league style trends in the Northeastern, United States. Like much of today’s summer style for gentlemen, it originated from one of these three rebellious fashions which were originally a mode of “sticking it to the man.” The preppies love their boat shoes, the Ivy League style took on the loafer, and so for the more traditional gents attending university whose fathers wouldn’t dare let them step foot outside the house in boat shoes, the white buck was adopted as the shoe of choice. Today, bucks aren’t exactly popular, and most men about town opt for other footwear in their place. However, for the truly stylish gentleman, having at least one or two pairs of bucks is a testament to their sartorial prowess and an excellent example of a summer shoe that can be worn with a variety of outfits. At the very least, it will certainly get you noticed.

So what does the ideal white buck look like?

Unfortunately, they are difficult to find off the rack. However, Shoepassion, offers model 471, which is perfect, and Allen Edmonds also offers them as a special order.

A canvas sneaker for summer is far better than athletic shoes

A canvas sneaker for summer is far better than athletic shoes

Canvas Casual Shoe

Unfortunately, sneakers and athletic shoes have become the norm in the summer. It seems that most men opt for a pair of Nike, Adidas or New Balance sneakers even if they wear a jacket.

However, athletic shoes are for athletics, and so a preferable alternative is a canvas shoe. You can wear them with or without socks, and they come in all sorts of colors. Classic colors include white and off-white, but they will stain more quickly. A pair of simple grey or royal blue canvas won’t stain as easily and when paired with white or light blue laces is a great choice for the young or young-at-heart gentleman who leads an active life. Perfect for a walk in the park, playing in the backyard with your kids or a quick commute to the store or to grab a bottle of wine for the barbecue. These shoes are undeniably casual and only work with the most casual attire you have in your wardrobe.

For a large selection in different colors, take a look at the Italian Superga canvas shoes. Alternatively, PF Flyers may be more to your taste. Of course, probably the most well-known canvas shoe is the Converse All Star Chuck Taylor, and while it is a very durable shoe it is so mainstream that you will certainly not stand out in any way.

Espadrilles

Once considered an inexpensive shoe for the common laborer, espadrilles originated in the Pyrenees, although they were also worn for decades in Mallorca, Spain. Today, they are a stylish summer shoe that has found its way from Spain to North America. A flat and flexible shoe, they are usually made from canvas or cotton upper with a defining sole made of jute rope. They really vary in style but are always very casual. Exceptionally popular in Europe, they first became mainstream in North America in the 1980s, their popularity due to being seen in Miami Vice. Today, many designers produce them, and they can be found for just a few dollars to upwards of thousands depending on the brand and craftsmanship.

Espadrilles are classic summer shoes in Europe

Espadrilles are classic summer shoes in Europe

When you buy a pair, make sure the fit is very snug, because the jute will give-in and make the shoe feel bigger after wearing them a few times. It’s also neither a very comfortable nor durable summer shoe, and hence it is not suited for long walks — they are much better for outings at the beach or lake. In any case, it is a casual shoe and should not be worn with jackets.

Woven Leather Shoes

Woven leather shoes are similar in breathability as perforated leather shoes. However, many find them more elegant. While it adds an elegant touch to an otherwise casual outfit, it also works well with seersucker ensembles. Note, some woven leather shoes have a regular leather lining, which limits the air-flow considerably. Hence, make sure the lining is either fabric such as linen or also perforated.

Scarosso Woven Leather Loafers

A pair of woven leather loafers from Scarosso.

Spectators

Of course, spectators have a very summery flair. For an in-depth guide about Spectator and Two-Toned ShoesTwo-Tone Shoes, click here.

khaki pants or off-white pants and spectators

Khaki pants and a Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Charcoal and Orange goes really well with the spectator

Style Tips for Summer

Whether you wear a traditional summer shoe or are looking to add some seasonality to a shoe worn year round, there are a number of ways to put some sprezzatura in your step.

Colorful Shoelaces

For men just starting a shoe collection or those with a modest budget, we recommend sticking with shoes you can wear year-round. Traditional captoe oxfords in black can be worn all year round, but they often look out of place with summer fabrics like seersucker, linen, or tropical. Hence brown or burgundy is often a better year-round investment.

Yellow Shoelaces on Brown Oxford

Brown oxfords in brogue with Yellow Shoelaces Flat Waxed Cotton from Fort Belvedere

In any case, with the quick addition of a colored shoelace, you can add some pep to any shoe in your closet and compliments will soon follow. The best part is, you can easily take them back out and add them to another pair, all while changing the look completely. A new pair of shoes was never so affordable.

Ace Marks Blue Brogued Oxfords

A bold pair of blue brogued oxfords from Ace Marks.

Colorful Leathers

Introducing colorful shoes to your summer wardrobe is easily one of the most fun and interesting ways to enhance your outfit. While black and brown shoes are the most common on men, buying a pair of shoes in olive green, dark blue or beige suede can really set you apart from the crowd in a sophisticated way. Of course, you can also play with other colors such as red tones or yellows, just be careful to pair them with muted items and skip other statement pieces because less is more and the introduction of a pair of bright shoes is more than enough to add some color to your outfit.

Add Colorful Socks

Instead of just matching your socks to your pants, you can be a bit bolder by going with brighter socks with contrasting colors.

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks in Burgundy & light grey paired with brown suede Derby shoes

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks in Burgundy & light grey paired with brown suede Derby shoes

Going Barefoot?

Many elegant men in warmer climates seemingly have no socks when they wear shoes. Some find this idea unhygienic and preposterous while others strive for that elegant look.

Boat Shoes can be indeed worn barefoot without getting blisters. On the other hand, regular leather dress shoes will give you blisters when worn barefoot. So how do these Italian men pull off that look? They wear invisible socks or removable cotton insoles.

No Show Socks

No show socks are essential for summer

Invisible socks are short, thin cotton socks with a low profile that you can’t see outside the shoe. In our experience, this is the best option, because they feel like socks and your skin will not stick to the leather lining.

An alternative option is to buy removable and washable cotton insoles that help absorb sweat. The problem with those is that everything but your sole is still exposed, and they can make the shoe feel much smarter especially since feet and legs often swell during warmer days.

What Not To Wear

Sandals and Flip Flops

flip flops break your entire outfit

flip flops break your entire outfit

Even though quite popular, flip-flops are never flattering and are practical only when on the beach, aboard a cruise ship or by the pool. If you consider yourself a man of style, we suggest that outside of these areas, you should not wear them. In some cultures like China, they are considered to be extremely cheap, and in fact, they are.

Even though sandals provide great ventilation, they are anything but stylish, and you should not wear them unless there is no other option. Personally, I don’t own a pair,  I have never missed them and neither will you.

Crocs

Somehow, this single brand of shoes became a style of its own. The only benefit to wearing crocs would be to let your dignity seep out through the holes. Otherwise, they are about as anti-stylish as one can get. Avoid these at all costs.

Crocs Shoes

Crocs—best avoided for any gentlemanly pursuits!

Hybrid Shoes

There is a new breed of shoes coming out called hybrids, and unfortunately, there are no rules that govern what these are. One could argue that leather sneakers, canvas shoes and even driving mocs are hybrids. There aren’t really any rules against wearing hybrids. However, there are parameters around how one should wear them; and often, this goes against the advertising methods of the brand.

An example of a hybrid shoe (image credit: Ike Behar)

An example of a hybrid shoe (image credit: Ike Behar)

Hybrid shoes came about as a way for fast-fashion brands to sell shoes that offered a wider range of versatility. As an example, hybrid golf wingtips are often marketed as a shoe that can be worn on the golf course or in the boardroom. To be clear, they cannot. Golf shoes – regardless of style – should only be worn on the golf course. This is the same for hybrid casual-oxfords; a new breed of oxford-style shoes with the comforts, rubber soles, and laces of athletic shoes. These are not real dress shoes, and you are better off having a designated pair of tennis shoes for the gym and decent dress shoes for the office.

Redan Golf Shoes from Allen Edmonds

These “Redan” golf shoes from Allen Edmonds, while stylish, should obviously be worn only on the golf course.

Conclusion

Summer shoes are a wonderful addition to your seasonal wardrobe and make your outfits special. If you are at the beginning of building your shoe closet, it’s OK to wear your regular brown dress shoes, but be sure to dress them up with shoelaces or socks to create a summery look.

What are your favorite summer shoes? Let us know in the comments!

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