In this special installment of our review series on menswear items, we’re examining the best men’s dress shoes under $300 that we thought were worth reviewing, in addition to a few brands that our readers asked us to review. Read on for our thoughts on what brands are worth their prices!

Our Reviews of Men’s Dress Shoes, $100 to $300

First, a few notes. We didn’t consider shoes from brands like Cole Haan, Johnston & Murphy, or Florsheim; not only are they of too low a level of quality from what we’ve seen, but their discount level prices often reflect this. As the saying goes, you get what you pay for! We also reached out to Thursday Boots, Charles Tyrwhitt, Royal Republiq, Herring, Barker, Bexley, and Finsbury, but we didn’t hear back from them at all. Most importantly: we were not paid to review these shoe brands, so we’re discussing our most honest opinions, in a video that’s 100% unsponsored. While our opinions are ultimately subjective, we’ve tried to be as objective as possible in our criteria and evaluations.

1. Beckett Simonon Shoes

Beckett Simonon is a fairly popular shoe and it’s reviewed often in the menswear space, and we got two pairs from them to review. For the craftmanship, we think that they are generally pretty solid. We didn’t see flagrant errors with the stitching or how the sole was attached to the rest of the shoe, except for the way that they selected the leather and sewed it together. Our impression is that there wasn’t the utmost degree of care.

In terms of comfort, we think that the new last (made in Colombia) is a lot more comfortable than the old one (from Portugal) just because of the extra room. Overall, we think that the leather is softer than some other brands–kind of in the middle as it’s not really soft, it’s not super hard, but maybe like medium-stiff as we would describe.  With the lack of attention to detail, the different colors, we gave the Durant a 2-star rating while for the Dean we gave it a 3 out of 5.

Durant (Beckett Simonon)

Of course, we are different people so we value things differently but we just want to share what our experiences were. We tested them independently and then we compared our notes so we can give you a little more insights.

2. Taft Shoes

Taft is trying to differentiate themselves in menswear space. They are doing a lot more with these shoes in fabrics that have bolder patterns or colored and that kind of a thing. If you are more in the market for that kind of fashion-forward look, they may be an option for you.

Beck (Taft)

The Russel in London, which, as of 2020, this model is no longer stocked at $235, which is pretty bold. The cost per wear is kind of high as it’s not something we’d wear often. Also at $235 is the Beck in kind of a tanned color they refer to as burnt honey, which is definitely unique — lots of different subtle shading around the shoe. Overall, the workmanship is solid but we would say unremarkable. We give a 2.5 to 3 stars for the Beck while 2 out of 5 for the Russel in London.

3. Loake Shoes

Loake has a lot of classic shapes last, a lot of business shoes that you can wear–brown or black shoes and even their boots. Their suedes have very nice touch–kind of a short nap, they’re not too soft but they’re also not super stiff. Their regular calf leathers are maybe a little stiffer. In terms of workmanship, they’re made in England, and as such, they are Goodyear welted which is like a standard over there; they don’t really do Blake construction.

Their 1880 Series boots are calf leather and have good quality. It’s not the best leather in the world and it’s not also crappy leather, but it is somewhere in a medium segment. The Eton Penny Loafer we got is an olive green, but it is also available in other colors for $240. It has very traditional English styling or last shape which helps to offset that by choosing to get a slightly bolder color and we thought it was advantageous. The stitching was nice and even. The construction was very high quality all around.

Eton (Loake)

We give the Eton Penny Loafer and the 1880 Series a 3.5 considering the comfort factor that the height of the side of the shoe here was rubbing a little bit. If we were to discount those fit issues given how nice the constructions are, how nice the looks are, maybe could have gotten up to 4 out of 5 or even higher!

4. Moral Code Shoes

Some of the models on the Moral Code website are a little bit fashion-forward; they’re kind of a more modern brand, but we picked the more classically inspired models. It’s made in India, which could be a good source of leather, but the tannery is maybe not up to snuff compared to like Italian, English, or German or French tanneries.

The Brayson Loafer is priced at $170, made from stiff calf leather. It’s more of a classic, round-lasted loafer, which we think is something a grandpa would wear– contrary to how it’s advertised. The Holden in cognac color, which is at $198 is a wingtip derby shoe with broguing. The holes are huge and there’s no medallion, which could have made the shoe unique. Both models we got are quite shiny, which can seem cheap.

Holden (Moral code)

Overall, $170 for a Goodyear welted shoe, all leather although it’s a little stiff but in terms of comfort, it works for your foot so we give it a 3 out of 5 for both shoes.  It was a fairly decent value for what you are getting.

5. Scarosso Shoes

Next up is Scarosso, a German brand but made in Italy. Just like most Italian brands, they have Blake construction. The Raimondo Sigaro Scamosciato, priced at $245 ($225 as of 2020), is a tobacco brown loafer. The toe was a bit square, which makes it unique. The Andrea Moro, price is $295 ($325 as of 2020), has a woven leather which not many brands offer, making it quite unusual. Overall, their loafers are nice and comfortable enough for summer.

Andrea Moro (Scarosso)

We give 4 stars for all of their loafers. They are just nice and what we would want is a summer elegant loafer that is comfortable. Both were great shoe options. The fit was not 100%  as there were some slight construction issues with the sole coming apart.

6. Velasca Shoes

Velasca, an Italian brand, is founded in Milan. The shoes, however, are made in the town of Marquette. It’s like a city that makes a lot of shoes and so most of the Italian-made shoes we review probably all come from the same town. They sent us multiple shoes, which examine here.

The Garzon (formerly Verduratt) is a single strap monk shoe. It’s a nice, sort of understated dependable shoe, and the color we have is black, which is quite conservative, and not too flashy. The Ost, which is a loafer with a very kind of flexible construction It almost seems almost like a slipper with a hard sole. The Cavadent is a calf suede and they made it waterproof.

Cavadent (Velasca)

We give the Cavadent a 4 out of 5 because it’s a very traditional style, you can wear them a lot. If you’re starting out, don’t want to spend much money and you want a conservative style, Velasca shoes are good. For the Garzon, we give it a 3.5 for those fit concerns while for the Ost, we give it a 3 out of 5 the fact that the fit was lacking as well.

7. Undandy Shoes

Undandy is another brand that is in direct-to-consumer type of space and they’re trying to differentiate themselves by doing a fully customizable model. You go on to their website and you can build a shoe from scratch. Usually, this kind of made to order program is something you see with more expensive brands.

We designed shoes in different styles, colors, and lasts. They have a couple of options, which is really fantastic, but they just have some more way to go and any other workmanship attention to detail.

First, we chose the Undandy 31 Last, has a conservative style and a smaller, more rounded toe, that we rank as high as 4 stars out of 5. The second one is the Undandy 15 Last; it’s a much more chiseled model in suede and we give it 3 and a half stars. Check out more about the shoes we built and our experience with them in this video here.

8. Meermin Shoes

Meermin is a Spanish shoe brand founded by third and fourth generation shoemakers of the Albaladejo family from Mallorca. They have a very high-end production. It’s not cheap by any means. They have heritage, nice styling, beautiful leathers, and great construction. This brand is fairly popular across the menswear space. Overall, their shoes look more expensive than they are.

We have, from their higher-end line, the model called Linea Maestro, which starts from $290 and goes up to $320, so slightly above $300, but it’s close that we still included them in this review. It’s hand-welted, which makes it very interesting as such aren’t usually found in this price category. Another model we have is a brown suede penny loafer at $175, which is a Goodyear welted shoe. Let’s examine both!

Linea Maestro – Meermin

The Linea Maestro is slightly stiffer shoe but with a little bit of break-in. We think it’s a great companion. It has a unique style where there’s no cap toe in the Oxford and kind of slightly rounded last. It’s timeless yet elegant. Overall, we are really impressed that a shoe in this price range can be that good so we give it a 4.75! For the penny loafer, we give it a 4 out of 5 as there was a little bit of sliding on the foot that we don’t think could be accommodated by a tongue pad. There were also a few little construction things that were less than perfect.

9. Strange Island Shoes

These Strange Island oxford shoes made in Italy were some of the most expensive ones we look at and as the name implies they’re actually quite strange. It has some fabric, which makes it a very loud shoe, and much more with the red laces! They’re not exactly a classic menswear dress shoe, but are they worth it? Find out why, even though they’ll make you stand out, we rate it at 1 to 2.5 stars!

10. Ace Marks Shoes

Lastly here, we have Ace Marks shoes made in Italy. They started out as Kickstarters. Our first impression is their patinas are nice. Plus, they added some handwork to it. It’s very Italian-style, as it’s elongated, and still rounded at the tip. They stand out in a way and what they really focus on is that it’s soft and it doesn’t require any breaking time.

The first pair we look into is a hand-painted mode–a whole-cut Oxford, which was pretty decent. We rank it a 4 out of 5. Another pair we have are out-of-the-box Italian style. The leather is box calf that’s on the medium scale between softness and stiffness, which we rank as a 3.5-star shoe.

Ace Marks Oxfords

We’ve worked with Ace Marks before, so on top of the shoes in this price range, we also share our experiences with their higher-end footwear that’s in our collection.

Conclusion

We hope you found this video helpful. We certainly spent a lot of time wearing the shoes, testing them, figuring out the differences! Overall, we think our winner of this whole test was Meermin (in terms of workmanship and styling details). Of course, it would still depend on what you want; for example, if you want cool loafers, then maybe Scarosso is a good brand. If you want oxfords or derbies, perhaps try Meermin or Ace Marks. It’s up to you!

Which of the dress shoes we reviewed have you tried and liked? Are there great brands we missed? Let us know in the comments!

Whether you are tall or short, lean or muscular, there is a comfortable pair of shorts out there for you. It might sound rather foreign to some of you to have to select the correct type of shorts for your body type. Some of you might think, “Can we just simply grab any color in any style of short that’s being sold at any store and simply call it a day?” We highly recommend not falling into this and promise you there is a better way than simply grabbing anything and throwing it on.

How to Find the Best Shorts for Your Style & Body Type

Here’s the thing, everyone on Earth has their own unique body type and when you discover yours, you’ll find that shopping is a much more pleasurable experience and it’s much easier to style yourself. To help you better understand how to discover your ideal style of short, we’re going to be covering five key components: fit, length, color, material, and style.

What’s The Ideal Fit?

It is very important that you pay attention to the fit of the shorts that you decide to wear. The reason is, the way clothing sits on a person helps determine the kind of perception others may have of them even before that person even opens their mouth to speak a word. Let’s take a look at three different fit options to help you better understand what to stay away from when shopping for shorts.

Fit is essential as shorts that are too tight or too wide will completely destroy your look.

Too Loose

This issue tends to be able to be noticed more when the shorts are also quite long. The main issue here is that there is an overall lack of shape and if you happen to be someone who has very thin legs to begin with, the disparity between the leg opening of the shorts and your thin legs will be enhanced that much more. Very often, people like to associate wearing something loose as a means of masking they’re very thin frame. In reality, this actually has the opposite effect, and they often look quite smaller than before. You can learn more about this concept and our style guide for the slim man video.

Baggy cargo shorts are probably one of the worst offenders in this loose category. Not only are their leg openings far too wide, they also have extra added bulk from the large pockets and whatever you decide to jam in there.

It makes your legs look thin and weak because they’re being swallowed up by your shorts.

Too Tight

The next area we want to cover is having shorts that are far too tight. I’ll go ahead and admit it myself, I have been a repeated offender of this as well. This mistake is very easy to make especially in today’s world where it’s very easy to see that slim fit is often the standard being presented everywhere.

So, keep in mind that depending on how you are shaped it might be very easy or very difficult to actually see when something is too tight. The key here is to make sure that you take a look in the mirror and check for excessive pull lines, especially near the pocket region and by your thighs. And also, when you look in the mirror, if it looks like your main center button or clasp-like enclosure is crying out for mercy, you might want to either adjust your size up or at least adjust the fit to help you find something that’s a little bit more comfortable. 

Avoid this! You should be able to move around and feel comfortable.

Just Right

This is what we really want to shoot for: the just right category. Having your shorts fit just right is the ultimate goal, but what does that look like? Now that we know exactly what to not do, it’s important to pay attention to how your body moves and operates in certain fabrics and designs.

For example, I tend to carry some weight near my waist and upper thigh region, so I tend to stay away from things that are listed as too skinny, especially if there is zero stretch at it. That is usually quite uncomfortable. However, my legs from my knees to my ankles actually look a little bit slimmer, so wearing anything that’s too long or too loose looks equally as ridiculous. In the warm summer months, I usually choose to wear cotton-based shorts that have added stretch for extra comfort and a moderately slim fit. This allows one to stay comfortable and not look too sloppy, regardless of whatever the casual setting I might be in.

Kyle looks good with his shorts. Shorts should never go past the knees.

When you’re first learning about how to figure out what fit is going to work best for you, it’s best to try on as many different fit options as you can possibly get your hands on, but always try to find something that is both comfortable and fairly timeless for you. Also, when you’re at the store if you find a pair of shorts that you seem to like but that are really listed as relaxed or loose or slim or skinny, try asking a salesperson for some assistance. Go ahead and take a look at the rest of the store’s presentations about how they advertise their clothing. You might start to notice a bit of a trend. Some might look quite loose and relaxed, while other extremely skinny and almost spray-painted on the mannequins.

Shorts also listed with a traditional waist size like a 32 or 34 will also be helpful. It’s very important to address the wider portions of your physique first and then you can start paying attention to things like length, material, and color.

A few great places to shop for some great timeless short options would be Brooks Brothers, Banana Republic, J.Crew, and Ralph Lauren. Now that we’ve discovered your ideal fit, let’s move on to finding the ideal length for your body type.

What Is The Ideal Length?

Different lengths and shorts will be appropriate for different occasions. Different lengths will say different things, so be mindful of it.

1. The 11-inch Length

This is a much more conservative length and is usually best to be worn by someone who’s well over 6-feet tall.

2. The 9-inch Length

This is usually my personal go-to. This length is quite the sweet spot for many men who happen to be between 5’9″ and about 6’1″. That’s like this conservative enough but still quite timeless. You won’t look like you’re wearing three-quarter workout pants but you also won’t be exposing too much skin.

3. The 7-inch Length

This is a length that many, but not all, preppy guys will opt to wear. A casual look and a greater amount of exposed skin will not work for everybody, but still a viable option for a lot of guys.

4. The 5-inch Length

This length is ideal for men who are well under 5’10”. Let’s get to remember that the shorter the shorts, the longer you start to make your legs look. If you already have quite long legs and you decide to wear 5-inch shorts or anything shorter, you start to look a little bit unbalanced.

5. The 3-inch Length

We don’t know how many are actually sold and it’s been a while since we’ve seen them, but they are out there. This length is usually seen on bathing suits or athletic shorts but they’re also available on a casual short option as well.

Remember, the key is to make sure that the length and fit match your body type. Keep in mind that when discovering what length looks best on you and your body type, using your height alone is usually not the best determining factor to only use when choosing one versus another. 

For example, let’s say, we have two friends who happen to both be the exact same height. At 5′ 9″, it’s very easy to assume that they both wear the exact same length in their shorts. However, in this situation, that is not true. Why? Because one friend has a longer torso with shorter legs while the other friend has a shorter torso with longer legs.

If another person happened to be shopping for both of these friends and was not paying attention to these differences, they would both find themselves looking extremely different in both of these shorts even though they’re both wearing the exact same size. This kind of rule of thumb is also very important to remember when shopping even for suits, shirts, and even pants. 

Please keep in mind that not all lengths will look ideal on all body types. Having a length that falls just above the knee is the most timeless and conservative. It’s also very important to remember that fashion is cyclical. Shorter shorts have actually been considered “in” for the last 10 years or so, most likely to counteract the longer and baggier styles from the late 90s into the 2000s. However, shooting for a short cut just above the knee is always going to be a safe bet.

What’s The Ideal Material?

There is a wide array of different material options for you to choose from when selecting something for your shorts. When shopping around, you might start to learn that different designers and manufacturers will use more of one particular material or material blend than another brand. The more you start experimenting with different brands and styles, the more you’re gonna start to learn what material or material blend will look best for you and your personal style. Some of the more commonly used materials or material blends are:

Cotton

Easily one of the most commonly used fabrics in clothing, using cotton to create shorts as quickly and fairly inexpensive depending on the quality of the cotton being used.

Cotton is a popular material for shorts, and rightly so. No matter if you opt for cotton seersucker or khaki twill, chinos, chambray or Madras, it will work well for shorts.

Linen

Linen comes from a long history dating back well over 30,000 years. Linen was made from fibers of the flax plant, it is strong and absorbent. Today, linen is enjoyed as a breezy and relaxed style and everything from suits, shirts, and of course, shorts. Linen’s ability to dry faster than cotton makes it the popular choice. Keep in mind linen has a natural wrinkle.

Linen is great especially in hot weather because they are so breathable. They are also free-flowing and never tight on your body.

Spandex

Some of you might be envisioning the equivalent here of biker shorts and you wouldn’t be wrong but there are other uses for the spandex material as well. The spandex is often combined in various quantities with other fabrics to create a specific amount of give or stretch. In other words, you’re not going to find 100% spandex shorts outside of perhaps, athletic wear.

Spandex is mostly used in cycling shorts.

Polyester

Polyester is a synthetic fiber, sometimes it is combined with the natural fabrics or fibers to create a cloth with different properties. In general, we recommend staying away from polyester. Other than the small amounts of heat and odor it holds, it doesn’t wick moisture and wrinkles unattractively. It may also wear out more quickly than natural fibers. 

Polyester shorts is not recommended unless you want to do outdoor activities such as exercise, run, and bike.

Denim

Denim being used as a base for a pair of shorts or jorts isn’t new, however, it does look extremely casual, and jorts have a bit of a pent stylish reputation, to say the least. Cut-off denim shorts were incredibly popular in the 1970s into the 1990s but unless you’re wearing them to Coachella, it’s best to leave them in your closet. 

Unless you are invited to a theme party, you should never wear these shorts.

Material Blends

One that’s quite popular is the cotton and polyester blend. This blend is strong and much more wrinkle and tear-resistant than cotton alone. This blend is also going to help you in terms of shrinkage resistance. A few other very popular fabric combinations happen to include cotton and linen, cotton and spandex, and polyester, and spandex. 

What About Patterns?

Seersucker

The ever-popular seersucker is actually a patterned weave fabric. It was originally used in the United States for a broad array of different garments. Seersucker is also known as a railroad stripe. It was all cotton and usually warm with stripes but can also be found as a checkered pattern as well. A fun fact — the word seersucker came into English from the Persian words shear and shakar meaning milk and sugar. 

Fantastic seersucker whaler shorts

Madras

Madras is a lightweight cotton fabric with a patterned texture. The word madras actually is the former name of the city of Chennai in India. Madras is easily recognizable from popular styles. There are also other types within the category, like madras plaid and patchwork madras, which we cover comprehensively in our madras guide.

Beautiful summer madras shorts

Other Patterns

Other pattern options would include a pinstripe, a plaid, or even a print. If you’re just starting out, it’s best to stick to solid colors that are quite neutral, and then down the road maybe you can start introducing the occasional pattern. Solid colors tend to be much easier to filter into your wardrobe.

Weaves

A few other weaves that you might find when shopping around for shorts happen to include jacquard, jersey knit, twill, or an embroidered pair of shorts as well.

Foundational Shorts Colors

Navy

Depending on what the manufacturer’s dye is like, the navy blue in question might look almost black or almost like a bright royal blue. The ideal navy color that we’re looking for is neither too dark nor too bright, and it’s interchangeable with a variety of different shoe and shirt options. 

Kyle wearing a pair of navy 9-inch shorts.

Stone

Sometimes it looks more grey, sometimes it looks more brown, but it’s a neutral color nonetheless and if you can’t find or simply don’t care for this color, we recommend checking out a taupe or a cream shade as well.

Khaki

As functional and as versatile as khaki is, I see that sometimes, many people find it quite polarizing. Some find the ease of manipulating khaki into so many different outfits fantastic. Other people find that color to be quite a trigger reminding them of their school dress code days. Whichever side of the aisle you land on, just know that you can’t go wrong with having at least one pair of khaki shorts in your wardrobe. They are simple and effortlessly timeless.

Khaki color is good for warm weather garments.

Going Beyond the Basic Colors

Do you already have all of the foundational colors? If so, consider adding some of the following to mix up your wardrobe. We have passed out blue for a very breezy feel. There’s also olive green for something that’s a little bit more unique than having a khaki pair of shorts, or perhaps even adding a pink for something that’s a bit more bold.

Of course, there are many other colors we could’ve listed here, however, these colors are fairly timeless and offer you at the ability of being able to create multiple outfits without feeling tempted by the entire store’s offerings.

Popular Shorts Styles

As you might have imagined, just as there are many color options or also a lot of style options made available to you when selecting your ideal shorts, there are also popular style options.

Flat-front Shorts

These tend to sit a little bit lower on your waist unless you’re intentionally buying a pair that has a higher rise.

Flat-front shorts are often paired with a polo shirt and worn to outdoor events.

Pleated Shorts

Pleated shorts tend to sit a little bit higher on your waist. These shorts are a much more traditional approach compared to the flat front short. They might look a bit stodgy but they do have their place. If the fit on these pleated shorts is flattering, we would consider them.

Cargo Shorts

As we mentioned before, cargo shorts are increasingly out of style and for good reason, cargo shorts are often baggy, bunchy, and weighed down by items and their endless pockets. Best to remember to steer clear of the style unless you are camping and truly need the extra storage.

Although practical for camping and wilderness activities, cargo shorts should not be worn outside of that setting because they simply look hideous.

Bermuda Shorts

The Bermuda shorts are also known as walk or dress shorts. These shorts are seen as a semi-casual option that can be worn by either men or even women. Bermuda shorts happened to air on the longer end of the short length spectrum. We dig deeper into this, and many other short styles and their history in our guide to men’s shorts.

Conclusion

It might feel very overwhelming to try to find those ideal shorts. There are so many options being made available — different colors, different lengths, different material options to consider. Some people would rather throw their hands up and say I’m not even gonna bother trying. When you feel frustrated, it’s important to remember those five things that we learned about today: fit, length, color, style, and material, and your next shopping experience will be much more pleasurable.

The fabric weave known as grenadine is prized among the sartorially inclined for its versatility and understated character. But why is it so appreciated, and how exactly is it produced?

All About Grenadine

Those who dress in a suit and tie just because they have to will usually find a plain silk tie, regardless of color, to be good enough to wear with a suit (though hopefully not a shiny silk, lest they look like a boy at prom). A step beyond this is the businessman’s standard: a printed silk tie with some sort of geometric pattern on it. A grenadine tie, meanwhile, comparatively represents a gateway into refined style. It’s truly something different; still very business-appropriate, but versatile enough for more casual use and a sign that you don’t want to settle for the commonplace in the way you dress. Here’s all you need to know about the weave called grenadine.

Beautiful brown sport coat with grenadine tie and orange pocket square

A Brief History of the Grenadine Weave

Grenadine is not the name of a material, but rather of a variety of open weave made of two warp (vertical) yarns twisted around the weft (horizontal) yarns that run perpendicular to them; this is also referred to as a “leno weave.” The result is a sheer fabric that is conducive to hot-weather clothing, and grenadine used to be popular for tropical garments. Yet, its earliest known use was in the form of black lace fabric worn in 18th-century France. Some speculate that grenadine originated in Granada, Spain because of the name (and presumably because it can get quite hot there), but it has made appearances throughout Europe, and its exact origins remain shrouded in mystery. The most direct reference we have to its geographic roots is its description as an “English gauze” (“garza a giro inglese”) in Italian. Indeed, giro inglese is still the name used to describe summer shirts made with the weave, and the term “grenadine” refers only to neckties.

Leno weave and a summer shirt made with it

Ties made of silk grenadine are woven exclusively in the Lake Como area of Northern Italy on historic wooden looms from the early 20th century.  This mode of manufacture not only adds to the artisanal nature of the product but to its overall mystique (and conversational value). In German, Grenadine is called “Schlinger” which highlights the distinctiveness of the weave.

Types of Grenadine Weaves

Grenadine ties appear most commonly in two varieties–called by the Italian terms garza fina (fine gauze) and garza grossa (large gauze). A third sort of weave found more rarely is the prometeo (meaning “Prometheus,” though the significance of this mythological name is another obscure part of grenadine’s history).

Grenadine Garza Fina & Custom Made Patchwork Vest with Lilly Pulitzer Fabric

The prometeo can best be described as a large honeycomb weave.  Lastly, there is garza piccola (tiny gauze), which is even smaller than garza fina, even if the two terms are sometimes used interchangeably by sellers. The difference is largely a choice of how much texture you want to emphasize. That being said, grenadine can be woven in many other combinations, but it just isn’t done anymore, probably because very few machines exist that can weave this kind of fabric.

This burgundy silk grenadine tie from Fort Belvedere features a mixed weave of both garza fina and garza grossa.

Finer grenadines (piccola, fina) tend to appear more like smooth solids whereas their larger counterparts (prometeo, grossa) have more visible texture. When the texture of the tie is less noticeable it is slightly more formal, so the fine grenadines can be perceived as especially office-ready.

On the other hand, Sean Connery’s James Bond wore only garza grossa ties and never fina, always with suits, and his style certainly never suffered for it. Garza grossa and prometeo have quite a visible texture, which can be compared to that of a knitted tie, though a woven grenadine will have a greater formality than any knitted neckwear.

How to Wear a Grenadine Tie

The beauty of grenadine ties–and why they’re so popular among menswear aficionados–is their versatility. Because they’re made of refined silk, you can find them dyed in nearly any imaginable color to coordinate with a range of clothes. The material and weave together also give a grenadine the sheen of a printed tie, along with the texture of a more casual woven one.

Sven Raphael Schneider in a houndstooth jacket with a brown prometeo grenadine tie from Fort Belvedere

Shine is usually a quality that makes something more formal (think patent leather opera pumps or the silk facings on a tuxedo lapel) while texture usually dresses something down; because grenadine ties have both, they are as equally at home with business suits as they are with button-down shirts and tweed sport coats. The texture of a grenadine tie, especially a garza grossa, works perfectly with more casual sport coats that have a similar repeating pattern, like a houndstooth or shepherd’s check.

Solid, Striped, or Patterned Grenadine Tie?

When starting out with grenadines your first choice will usually be solid colors, because you can pair them not only with plain shirts but also with shirts that have stripes or even plaids. However, grenadine ties are also available with stripes, usually broader ones as well as other patterns. If the stripes are light in color, you’ll be able to see the honeycomb or brick-like rows of the grenadine weave even more clearly on the tie, which adds to the beauty.

Garza grossa or Garza fina Grenadine?

As noted above, the choice of fina versus grossa boils down to how much texture you want to emphasize, but you really need both in your collection. Unfortunately, some men avoid garza grossa ties because their more open structure makes them prone to snagging, but, to be honest, all grenadines can catch on things. You may have to be a little more careful when handling a garza grossa–ensure that your fingernails are cut and well filed!–but this is hardly a deal-breaker. Knit ties are also susceptible to snags, but you probably wouldn’t ban them from your wardrobe, and grenadines are even more versatile.

Clip-on suspenders with grenadine tie – study of greys and blues

Lined or Unlined Grenadine Ties? It’s A Matter Of Choice

Neckties can come either lined or unlined. With a grenadine, you’re likely to find both options. The lining or interlining is a piece of fabric, usually wool, used on the inside of the tie to give it more body.  Because the open weave on a grenadine allows you to see through the tie to some extent, if you have a lining, it will be dyed the same color as the silk shell. Lined ties tend to look more finished, so they are most appropriate for business suits.

A Cashmere-Wool Grenadine Tie in Dark Blue, Burgundy, Light Grey Stripe from Fort Belvedere, paired with a light gray suit, lavender shirt, and patterned pocket square

Unlined ties, especially in an airy grenadine weave have more of a handmade artisanal look, which can also make them appear more casual. Because of the thinness of an unlined grenadine, you will also see the impression of the tie folds on the underside and perhaps the shape of the keeper as well. Some men dislike this because people who don’t know about ties will assume theirs is defective in some way.

Atte Rytkönen wearing an unlined grenadine tie; you can see the impression of the underside through the fabric.

As a counterpoint, the less finished appearance of an unlined grenadine provides a dash of sprezzatura: the characteristic Italian nonchalance in dressing that avoids perfectionism, so if you want to show this sort of rakishness, unlined is the way to go. A garza fina or piccola without lining is especially light and wispy, which also makes it an ideal tie for hot weather days.

A Brown Grenadine Tie from Fort Belvedere paired with a houndstooth jacket, blue shirt, & green linen pocket square

Its thinness pairs beautifully with a giro inglese shirt and a linen sport coat for a quintessential summer style. In this way, an unlined grenadine really returns to its roots as a breathable summer weave. Lastly, if you prefer a small tie knot, unlined is your best option. As already discussed, grenadines form a fairly thick knot, and a lining will only add more thickness. You can pull your tie tighter to shrink the knot, but then your risk stretching the fabric and making your tie too long. Keep in mind though that even an unlined garza grossa makes for a fairly thick knot, so you’ll want an unlined garza fina if you tie a or to stick to a four-in-hand knot with these.

A Word on Faux Grenadine Ties – Skip Them

In recent years, fake grenadine ties have appeared online, capitalizing on the popularity of the real thing. These can be had quite cheaply, for under $20, and they have a similar look from afar, so they’re popular for those on a budget. If you just want some texture and don’t care if your tie is an authentic grenadine, you might settle for these. However, the Gentleman’s Gazette upholds the general principle that it is preferable to buy better quality items that will last rather than “cheaping it out” in the short term. 

A false grenadine, which has texture but no open weave.

You will likely desire an authentic grenadine tie eventually, and will probably have to replace the cheap one as it wears out faster–not to mention that it will never look as splendid as the real deal. The cost ($125 at Fort Belvedere) is not exorbitant–you’re not buying a Cifonelli suit after all–and you can choose a versatile color like navy, burgundy, red, or black that will get good use with the classic menswear colors of blue and gray. As a bonus, Fort Belvedere allows you to choose both the width and length.

The Fort Belvedere Shop offers grenadine ties in multiple colors and lengths.

Conclusion – Grenadine Ties Are An Essential Wardrobe Staple

There’s a good reason why a grenadine tie is considered a staple menswear item and an essential tie for every man. Solid grenadines come in a seemingly infinite range of colors, not to mention differently sized weaves, making them not only versatile but ultra-collectible. Meanwhile, a striped grenadine, especially one made of mixed materials, is just plain beautiful. So, if you’ve never tried a grenadine, now is the time to get one, and if you already swear by them, why not select another color for your collection?

How many grenadine ties are in your collection? Do you have a preferred weave? Share with us in the comments!

One of the key tenets of classic style is to always dress appropriately for the occasion, which is most often stipulated by the required level of formality. But which articles of clothing are appropriate to different levels of formality, and how do they rank in comparison to one another? 

For an event hosted by Queen Elizabeth II, you’d select different items than you would for office work or for a weekend brunch with friends. In this article, we present some general principles to determine the formality of nearly any menswear item and provide you with a list of clues to recognize where they fall on the scale of casual to formal.

The General Rules of Formality

Every item of clothing and every accessory falls somewhere on the continuum of formality, and there are some broader principles you can use to see at a glance where that is.

Dress Codes Formality Scale

1. Casual vs. Formal Colors

As a rule, brighter colors are more casual than somber ones. A mid-blue suit, for example, is less formal than one in navy blue or charcoal gray.

Bright colors are more casual than darker ones.

A useful technique to sort this out is to think of colors one could typically wear in the summer as casual, no matter what the season–beige, white, or light blue, for example. Although not really a bright color, brown is also more casual than navy or grey. A lot of this is owed to the long-established British distinction between city and country wear. Browns were not supposed to be worn in town, which immediately associates the color with a more casual rural setting than the charcoal grey or navy one would wear when doing business in London.

Colors formality scale

2. Casual vs. Formal Texture

The smoother and often the shinier the fabric, the more formal it generally is. A textured basketweave fabric would be more likely to appear on a sports coat than a classic suit, and corduroy would make for casual trousers, not dress pants. As a general guideline, if there’s strong visual evidence of the weave or texture, it’s more casual.

The left fabric shows a formal Super 150s worsted wool, whereas the right shows a prominent weave on a casual sports coat.

Ties that are made of rough wool or slubbed shantung are casual, while smoothly printed silks are business ties. On the other hand, you wouldn’t wear a shiny satin silk tie to work as its shine makes it too formal for that setting; satins should be reserved for evening events. Shine can be thought of as a variant on texture, as it is usually associated with smoothness. Shiny silk appears on the lapels of tuxedo jackets and on cummerbunds. Velvet, which has a distinctive sheen, is used for dinner jackets. Patent leather is used for opera pumps as part of formal evening wear.

This Black Classic Butterfly bow tie in silk satin by Fort Belvedere complements the satin lapels of the jacket nicely

3. Patterns and Formality

Similarly to texture, patterns also play a role in assessing formality. Articles of clothing with patterns tend to be less formal than those that are plain. Indeed, in British tailoring, many of the most popular and classic menswear patterns, particularly any plaid–from houndstooth to glen check, to Prince of Wales–were originally reserved for less formal country wear. A possible exception could be ties and pocket squares, as all sorts of patterns are acceptable on silk business ties (the printed silk it’s made of supersedes any informality of pattern).

Houndstooth, Windowpane, and Double-breasted jacket with hats

Even formal morning wear allows ties with patterns on them, whether geometric or stripes; however, a solid color tie would still be considered more conservative. Among patterns, those that are smaller and therefore less forceful are more formal than those that are large or loud. A mistake commonly made by beginners looking to “dress up” is buying designer or fashion items that usually have a lot of ornamentation, for instance, a gold and black jacket, when the exact opposite–a lack of pattern–would actually be more refined.

4. Structure and Formality

Another rule in classic menswear is that the more something is structured the more formal it is. In the realm of suit jackets and sports coats, those with canvas, lining, and padding have greater formality than those that are unlined or partially lined with unpadded shoulders.

5. Purpose and Formality

Knowing the origins and historic uses of the article of clothing, which you can learn from The Gentleman’s Gazette, can also be a way of judging it. If you have something that was originally intended to be worn in the country, for sport, or for utilitarian purposes, like a flat cap or a polo shirt, it would more casual than something intended as business attire.

The flat cap has its origins in British rural clothing.

Now, having provided the clues that enable you to assess the formality of clothing in general, we can turn our attention to the earmarks of specific wardrobe items.

Jackets

1. Structure

Continuing the discussion above, when dealing with suit jackets or sports coats, quite simply, more structure means a greater degree of formality. It is therefore not surprising that men who are accustomed to wearing highly structured suits every day for work turn to unstructured jackets in the Neapolitan style when they’re not on the job precisely because they are more relaxed.

Unpadded “natural shoulder.”

2. Fabric

The broader rules about materials and patterns also apply, with coarse or patterned jackets tending toward the casual end of the spectrum contrasted with smooth, solid ones. We can easily rank the most common materials used for tailored jackets in order of casualness based on their general “roughness”: linen, then cotton, then wool–with raw or rough wools (tweed and flannel) being a rung below worsted, and, lastly, cashmere.

3. Pockets

Unique among menswear items, pocket style on a jacket serves as a strong indicator of how casual or formal it is. Patch pockets, which are formed from material sewn onto the surface of the jacket’s lower front quarters, are the most casual; they are common on sports coats and casual suits. If there is a patch breast pocket as well, the jacket becomes even more relaxed. 

Jacket pockets formality scale

Next up are flap pockets. Usually, with flap pockets, no additional material is used on the surface of the jacket; the pockets are hidden beneath the surface of the jacket with only the flap visible. Flap pockets were originally associated with country wear in British tailoring but are now most common on business suits, though they may also feature in sports coats. 

A Neapolitan barchetta pocket and a patch breast pocket.

Lastly, we have jetted pockets, which are like flap pockets in construction but with no flap; the pocket is simply a slit with edge stitching. The result is a very clean, minimalist look, which you’ll find on formal wear: dinner jackets, tuxedos and morning wear.

4. Lapels

Lastly, lapels are an easy way to assess a jacket’s formality.

Jacket lapels formality scale

In a nutshell, a notched lapel is less formal than a peaked lapel, which is the most formal kind, appearing on power suits and formal wear. On a tuxedo or dinner jacket, you may also see a shawl collar; this is limited to formal jackets, so it remains more elevated than a notch lapel but is still more relaxed than a peak lapel. Thus, for example, a white dinner jacket that would be worn on a summer cruise should technically have a shawl collar given the relatively relaxed nature of the garment compared to a black tuxedo.

Pants

As a visual cue to assess formality, if a pair of pants has a sharp crease down the center of the legs, it’s more formal than one with a smooth front. The former are “dress pants,” while the latter would also include chinos and jeans. The “crease” division not coincidentally conforms to the rule of materials as well because dress pants are mostly made of wool while chinos are made from cotton or linen. Frankly, wool holds a crease much better than cotton or linen.

More formal dress pants (left) with a distinct crease; less formal chinos (right) with more evident seam details, no pleat, and a metallic button closure.

Within the category of chinos itself, there can be a range of formality as well: more casual chinos display a visible flat seam on the inner legs whereas so-called “dress chinos” are cleaner, with seams that are minimized. The presence of ornamental details on pockets, like metal rivets or decorative stitching, such as what you’d see on a pair of jeans, are also emblems of casual style.

Shirts

1. Fabric

What looks at first glance like the same plain white dress shirt can offer varying levels of formality depending on factors like the weave, the cuffs, and the collar. With its relative thickness, somewhat rough texture, and patch pocket, the Oxford cloth typical of the classic OCBD shirt is considered among the more casual dress shirting fabrics. For this reason, they add a casual touch to tailoring and may be more associated with sports coats than business suits, though the rule is flexible.

Paul Newman wears a classic oxford collar button down OCBD

2. Collars

Dress shirt collars come in a variety of forms, and, once more, the button-down collar is the most casual, perhaps because of its association with the OCBD, or with the sport of polo, or because it shows visible buttons.

Collars formality scale

After this, the point, semi-spread, and spread are about equal in terms of formality, and all are appropriate for business settings. They can’t really be ordered in terms of formality, though arguably, because variants of the spread collar are de rigueur with tuxedos, it may be somewhat more elevated. Collars with vintage appeal, such as a tab collar, hearken back to a more formal time and are consequently seen as more formal especially when worn with a tie pin. The wing collar may be the most formal of all, as it is only worn with formal wear and has associations with vintage style.

3. Cuffs

This is an easy one since, unlike collars, there are only a few kinds of shirt cuffs. Basically, a standard button (or “barrel”) cuff is least formal, followed by French or double cuffs that require cufflinks, appropriate for more formal business shirts, black tie, and morning dress. Single cuffs with links, the most formal style, are reserved for white tie.

Single Cuff with cufflinks is the only proper shirt cuff option for white tie

Ties

Where wool reigns supreme as the formal fabric for tailored jackets and dress pants, silk is the queen of tie fabrics. However, not all silks are equally formal. Ties made of raw (shantung) or wild (tussah) silk that shows a lot of texture or slubbiness and those that are knitted (as opposed to woven) silk are perfect to wear with casual tailoring. An interesting exception is grenadine, which is a popular choice for business wear even though the weave is quite an obvious feature. Perhaps this is owed to its shininess. 

Micropattern ties by Fort Belvedere

Ties made of materials other than silk, such as linen, cotton, wool, and even cashmere, remain less formal, either because they are not as smooth or shiny. Interestingly, pattern matters less with ties in determining formality–a printed silk tie with stripes or a repeating geometric pattern is only barely less formal than one in a solid color.

Shoes

Shoes Formality Scale

In order from least formal to most formal dress shoes (excluding boots), we have loafers, derbies, monk straps, and oxfords. The very name “loafer” implies casual relaxation as does its slipper-like form. Derby shoes were originally country wear though they are at home with sport coats and even suits these days; still their association with casual settings remains. Monk straps are sort of at the same formality levels as derbies, but they are perhaps more frequently worn with suits than a derby would be.

Brown Lizard Tassel Loafers with dark blue and royal blue shadow stripe socks from Fort Belvedere

Lastly, we have oxfords, which are the most formal of shoes, equally useful for suits and formal wear. Color also matters, with black shoes considered more elevated than brown, again based on the old British “no brown in town” rule. Indeed, even now many men will only wear black shoes with navy or gray business suits though brown is worn for everything in Italy and has become more acceptable with suits in most settings. The principles of shine and texture also apply, with suede and nubuck shoes being more laid back than polished calf leather. Beyond these principles, two factors–ornamentation and structure–are also influential when determining the formality of shoes.

Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Oxfords

1. Ornamentation

With shoes, less is more (formal, that is), in terms of broguing and other ornamental details like wingtips. Case in point: the black patent oxfords worn with evening attire are actually quite plain except for their high shine, and for everyday business wear, black oxfords with a plain cap toe are appropriate. In fact, these black oxfords are also the shoe to wear with a formal morning suit. However, those who are new to classic style may be drawn to the intricate perforations that form the broguing on a shoe. They assume because broguing is so ornate and requires extra leatherwork that more of it equals a fancier shoe. On the contrary, simple is more elegant, something we can remember when we keep in mind that brogue perforations were originally designed for drainage on country shoes.

A cognac wingtip derby shoe with broguing versus a simple black cap-toe oxford, both from Ace Marks

2. Structure

Although all loafers can be called mocassini in Italian, even these can be sub-divided in terms of how much structure they have. A soft loafer is generally made of suede and is quite slipper-like, looking more like what one would consider a true moccasin. It’s an excellent shoe for summer weather as it is very lightweight and comfortable, which also makes it casual. Structured loafers can come in either suede or calf leather but are firmer and by virtue of this, more formal in appearance.

Soft, less structured loafer (top) and more structured loafer (bottom)

Conclusion

Knowing whether an item from your wardrobe is casual or formal, and to exactly what degree, can be important. It can help you decide whether what you are wearing is formal enough for an occasion or whether it’s too formal for everyday situations. It can also help you coordinate and pair aspects of what you wear because you’ll know, for example, that oxford shoes don’t usually work with jeans unless you’re trying to make a statement with the incongruity. Fortunately, there are certain qualities and earmarks that help you sort out where items reside on the scale of formality and thus which ones go together.

Do you have a different system for distinguishing smart casual from formal clothes? Are there other articles of clothing that can be sorted by levels of formality? Let us know in the comments below.

Let’s face it: When most of us are looking for style inspiration these days, the first place we go to is the Internet. And whether we’re looking through images online or even back in the day when we were browsing through magazines, what we’ll be seeing is really a representation of current fashions more than of timeless style.

Models & The Modern Tailoring

Case and point, let’s take a look at modern tailoring. Most of the models you’re going to see in menswear publications these days are exceptionally skinny 20-somethings who really look more like teenagers. It’s safe to say that this is a body type and physique that 90% of Gentleman’s Gazette readers aren’t going to have. Even someone like me who is on the taller side and definitely slim, isn’t quite athletic enough to fit this ideal modern body type.

Mod Fashions

So then, the modern style is all about the slim and narrow but, where did this come from? In our video on History of the Suit in 22 Minutes, we talked about the Mod fashions of the 1950s and 60s and indeed, these looks are still influencing modern style today. The typical Mod suit was slim fitting with narrow lapels and was often worn with similarly narrow ties. It featured slim flat-fronted trousers that had narrow leg openings. As an example of this style, you can take a look at some of the suits worn by members of the Rat Pack in movies that they made in the late 50s and early 60s.

Men’s fashion during the 1950s – 1960s

As the 60s progressed, these mod suits got even slimmer and the pants also got shorter and more tapered meaning that you wouldn’t see a break over the shoe. Overall, the history of men’s fashion can be characterized by actions and reactions. So, you’ll see things like lapels getting wider or narrower overtime and cuts being more baggy or more slim.

The mod style then was a reaction against the more full cuts of earlier generations which were coming to be seen as old fashioned. But by the 1980s and 90s, everything was suddenly looser and more full cut again as a reaction to the slimmer styles that were now 20 years or so old. 

Modern Lightweight Suit with Wrinkles

Then, in the 2000s, things flipped once again and we’ve been in the slim fit camp up to the present day. For examples of this, you can look at the current retail giant Suit Supply and for an extreme example, the work of American fashion designer Tom Brown. So it’s established that modern suits are very slim cut and therefore don’t work ideally for many men. But even if you’re not wearing a full suit — just a dress shirt and trousers, you might still experience some of these same fit problems.

Modern Shirts

Traditionally, men’s dress shirts were much more full-fitting allowing for a greater range of motion if you wanted to do something like raise your arms. Because shirts were considered an undergarment in previous decades and thus wouldn’t be seen unless underneath a jacket or other outer layer, this fuller fit wouldn’t be seen as sloppy. 

In the modern style, however, slim fit is definitely king and you’ll even see some retailers marketing shirts with things like extra slim fit or super slim fit. This will likely cause problems if you have wider shoulders or any kind of a belly, however. Unless your whole torso is uniformly thin, you’re probably going to experience some pulling of the shirt fabric across your chest.

This will detract from a clean and uniform look when you’re standing up and will be especially apparent if you’re wearing a shirt with a pattern like stripes. Rather than being straight up and down, the stripes are going to be crooked and broken. Because of this, many modern shirts will have spandex or elastane added into the weave to allow a bit more stretch of the fabric. However, this will likely mean that the longevity of the shirt is lower over time and you might find fewer options from any one retailer. While you’ll experience some minor issues while standing, these will likely be further compounded when you’re sitting.

The placket, which is where the shirts buttons are, could even gap in addition to folding and creasing. This will make the front of the shirt look like an accordion and even worse it could expose your undershirt or bare skin through these gaps. Imagine being in a business meeting or on a first date and having your navel exposed through one of these shirt gaps. Definitely not a professional or good look.

You could try to cover up some of this gapping and creasing with a necktie, of course, or you could just wear a shirt with a bit more room so that the gapping wouldn’t happen in the first place.

Modern Trousers

As we said before, the Mod style of the 50s and 60s was characterized by thin tapered and flat-fronted trousers with narrow leg openings. Many of today’s trouser offerings are similar and again they’re not going to be flattering to all body types.

For example, if you’ve got larger thighs either from working out cycling or just due to genetics, modern slim fit pants might not work for you. For one thing, they’re going to look unsightly, wrinkling and bunching and will make your legs look a bit like sausage casings and they might also be uncomfortable. What’s more, the seams could even tear if subjected to enough pressure.

Modern slim fit pants will not work for those men with larger thighs

Similarly, if you’re carrying any excess weight in your midsection, flat-fronted pants might not be your best option. You could verticalize your look a little bit more and, therefore, slim yourself down visually by trying pleated pants. Pleats have a bad reputation today because of the baggy pleated styles of the 1980s and 90s, but these are extreme outlier examples. Today’s pleated styles are more moderate overall and of course, remember that pleated pants are a staple of men’s fashion going as far back as the Golden Age of the 1930s and 40s and seen on Hollywood icons like Clark Gable and Cary Grant.

In addition to emphasizing your vertical line, pleats will also give you a bit more room in the trouser and thus, more comfort especially when sitting. However, while you can certainly find pleated pants today, they’re not going to be standard in most modern styles.

Your typical modern cut also tends to have a lower rise. This is the distance from the crotch of the trouser to the top of the waistband. Essentially, the rise measures how far up your waist the pants will sit. A low rise is associated again with that slim teenage build but it’s definitely not going to work for everyone. Especially again, if you’ve got weight in your midsection, this low rise will probably cause a bit of a muffin top and will make your tucked-in shirts look especially unsightly.

Simon Crompton of Permanent Style wearing Ambrosi pleated pants with a moderate cut

As is the case with pleats. A higher rise that sits closer to your natural waist, essentially in line with your navel, can make you more comfortable and give you a more flattering look. Classic style dictates that you not show any exposed shirt between the bottom of your necktie and your waistband when you’re standing and your jacket is buttoned.

As a bonus here, wearing trousers with a higher rise will ensure that this dreaded triangle of shirt fabric won’t be seen. Additionally, one thing that’s often overlooked in today’s styles, is the relatively narrow leg opening of many pairs of pants. If you have a fairly large shoe size, a narrow leg opening is going to look off proportionally and might even make your feet look clownish. A larger leg opening of roughly 7 ½ to 8 ½ inches will look more proportional with large shoe sizes.

Modern Jackets

In jackets marketed as fashionable today, you’re often going to find a fit that is exceptionally close to the body, very narrow lapels, a higher buttoning point and a shorter length overall. While these design features can look good on some, they’re definitely not for everyone.

Narrow lapels, often accompanied by a similarly skinny tie, are ideally meant for tall and thin men. The narrowness will make the wearer’s chest seem broader because there’s more space between the lapel and the shoulder. This is why narrow lapels look fine on the boyish models who are often wearing them but if you’ve got a naturally broader chest already, narrow lapels will probably look out of proportion. In general then, narrower lapels are going to look better for a narrower chest and broader lapels for a broader chest.

Modern jackets are also known for being shorter in length overall than more traditional styles. A traditional jacket is supposed to cover your seat or rear end when you’re standing. However, modern jackets are often going to be cut shorter leaving more of the seat exposed. Overall, the bottom of a jacket is where your body is divided in two and thus, these modern jacket styles will often leave your torso looking shorter and your legs longer.

This, in and of itself, wouldn’t necessarily be a bad thing as higher rise trousers are also designed to lengthen the leg line. However, because modern trousers as we’ve already discussed, typically have a lower rise, that paired with a shorter jacket style can often leave things looking a bit awkward overall around your midsection.

Raphael wearing a glen check double-breasted jacket combined with a Brown with Blue Paisley pocket square and Blue Cornflower Boutonniere from Fort Belvedere

If you do have a body type that’s characterized by shorter legs and a longer torso, a slightly shorter jacket might work for you. But, still trying to follow the baseline of having the jacket cover your seat is going to look good on most men.

Finally here, the buttoning point on a jacket is where the waist button is positioned. This is the top button that you’re supposed to button when standing. It might not always be the top button on the jacket itself, but it’s the one that is supposed to be buttoned.

These days, the buttoning point on many jackets has been migrating higher and higher on the chest making the upper torso look shorter and wider. This is why it’s often modeled by tall, thin men because it will help their shoulders to look a bit broader. This high buttoning point, in other words, is working to balance out the lean build of these models. However again, if you do already have a naturally broader chest or larger build having a jacket with a lower buttoning point closer to the natural waist will probably work better for you.

If you have a broad chest or a shorter torso, a buttoning point at your natural waist, which is also where your belly button is, would work better.

Conclusion

Be careful when you’re buying men’s wear in modern and or trendy styles. Remember that the purpose of a garment is to flatter and accentuate your natural proportions and give you a more ideal visual silhouette overall. Therefore, if you’re really going to be able to pull off modern and trendy styles well, you’ll probably need the body type that suits these kinds of garments best. You’ll need to be tall, thin, and ideally youthful.

Even if you are in the small percentage of the general population for whom these styles would work, however, you might not want to wear them. Why is this? Well after all, they are still trends at the end of the day and trends will eventually go out of style. What we would suggest, both for men who do fit this ideal modern body type and for the many men who don’t, is to lean on a more classic style; the one that we discuss here most often at the Gentleman’s Gazette. If you can incorporate these timeless style hallmarks into your looks, you won’t be immediately dated by the kinds of garments you’re wearing and we’ll have a more timeless overall look.

Preston wearing an ensemble that is a bit more modern in style but still has classic influences combined with Fort Belvedere accessories.

So, while modern styles may have their ideal target customers, a classic style is likely going to be more timeless and more comfortable for the vast majority of men. In these cases, then, your choice should be clear.

A navy blazer is a staple item in every well-dressed man’s closet. While not all men can one have one custom-made, we purchased offerings from several popular retail brands (at a price point under $500) and gave them a thorough review. Find out if they’re worth it in this video!

The Best Off-the-Rack Navy Blazers Under $500

Without a doubt, a navy blazer (or navy jacket otherwise) should hang in every well-dressed gentleman’s closet. It’s season-less, versatile, and pairs with almost every other color in your wardrobe. You can wear a navy blazer to an interview, dressed up for weddings, or dressed down with jeans. The trick, then, can be finding a quality blazer–especially if your budget is $500 or less. So what we did is went out and ordered 18 different jackets from 9 different retailers to compare their offerings and see which one was best. We paid for all these jackets with our own money, so this video comes to you 100% unsponsored.

A navy blazer is a staple item in every man’s closet.

In trying to find the most versatile navy blazer, we looked at the following criteria:

• Under $500
• Single-breasted
• Two buttons
• In a true navy color

But it was actually not so easy, because not all brands offered that particular style. We ended buying jackets from H&M, Bonobos, Suitsupply, Uniqlo, Banana Republic, Orvis, Brooks Brothers, Topman, and Zara. Of course, you can find other brands too that offer this type of jacket but this is what we found when we went online.

We ordered 18 navy blazers from 9 different retailers.

For example, we did try to find offerings from other retailers like Gap, which didn’t have anything that met our criteria. Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss had blazers that met our criteria, but not under that $500 price point. We each got one jacket per brand; size 44 regular for Raphael and 38 regular for Preston. We’ll be ranking them on a few different criteria (on a scale of zero to five stars), including:

• Fit off-the-rack
• Quality of the construction
• Quality of fabric itself
• Styling details

Blazer Brand 1: H&M

First up, Raphael got the H&M “Slim Fit Wool Blazer” which costs $199; which is twice as much as any other H&M blazer simply because it’s made out of wool, ironically, though it’s only 98% wool and 2% Elastane; not a hundred percent. This was a machine-made blazer as opposed to being handmade, and it was also made in Romania. If you wanted this wool blazer, you had to get it in a slim fit with notched lapels; there weren’t other styling options. Of course, for $199 you can’t expect any kind of handwork. It’s definitely a jacket, it’s on the shorter side which was in line with modern tastes. It didn’t have much the shoulder padding and the interlining wasn’t very stiff which is actually comfortable.

There was visible wrinkling around the midsection in the sleeves and the body.

The sleeves on this jacket were actually pretty slim, which wasn’t ideal for Raphael. Most current slim-fit jackets have slim upper sleeves but they often restrict your range of movement. The H&M was kind of the middle of the pack; it wasn’t too restrictive but also not super comfortable. The H&M slim fit wool blazer has very slim lapels in line with modern trends. It has crisper wool which is not too soft, but what bothered Raphael was the wrinkling around the midsection in the sleeves and the body; they wouldn’t go away.

They also had a quite short center vent.

In addition to that, there was a little bit of collar gap on that jacket for Raphael, but nothing we would call terrible. Collar gap is just something Raphael often has to deal with when buying off-the-rack jackets, because of his natural physique. They also had a quite short center vent; Teresa even said it looked like an extension of the wearer’s butt crack–but at least it wasn’t gapping. Overall, the jacket had the effect of looking shorter in the back than it did in the front (another common feature of OTR jackets).

The buttonholes were surprisingly nice.

The best way to prevent this is to go bespoke, because not even made-to-measure can prevent that. As was the case with a lot of these jackets, it would probably have to be steamed once you got it out of the box for it to look better, but at the same time with wool that was this crisp, we would have thought that it would have draped better. Frankly, the buttonholes were surprisingly nice, and the sleeves had kissing buttons. So, pros and cons here: there was slight piping on the lining, but there were other things like loose threads around the vent of the jacket. In terms of the range of movement, this jacket was in the middle of the pack.

Raphael’s Rating: 2.5 out of 5 stars

Meanwhile, Preston got the “Skinny Fit Blazer” for around $80. This one was 100% synthetic, but there were trade-offs here, and we decided that we might try to go for a better fit over a better fabric. When in doubt, even a nicer fabric won’t help you if the jacket doesn’t fit you, and Preston is quite thin, so he needs to pay attention to this. Otherwise, a jacket will look like a potato sack. This jacket was on the shorter side, in line with more modern styles. Even so, there was extra material around the sides and in the back, so the fit wasn’t ideal.

Preston got the skinny fit blazer for $80.

It was textured a bit like a faux grenadine material, which was kind of interesting but we could tell that it was not wool. One thing we noticed right away was a considerable collar gap, even while Preston was standing in a neutral position. Of course, they could have been worse when he started moving. The faux grenadine ended up making the jacket look cheap, because it had kind of a shiny finish. It did, however, have jetted pockets and peaked lapels which were quite nice.

Preston gave this jacket 1 out of 5 stars because of the cheap material and feel, and also because the fit wasn’t very good.

Preston’s Rating: 1 out of 5 stars

Blazer Brand 2: Bonobos

Bonobos offered two navy blazers with three fits: slim, athletic, and standard. They also had a short, regular, and long option. Their jackets came with a notched lapel, side vents, and patch pockets which we think is quite nice because it’s a slightly casual element. One interesting thing to note about Bonobos is that on their website, wool blazers cost roughly the same as blazers made from things like nylon or spandex. For Raphael, we got an unstructured wool blazer with fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico for $400.

The patch pocket is quite nice on this jacket.

This jacket was made in Vietnam, and right off the bat, we noticed that the quarters were more closed than we were expecting. Fortunately, the shoulders had no padding and were quite soft, which is to be expected with an unconstructed jacket. Fit-wise, we noticed there was a little bit of excess fabric in the waist that could probably be taken in. Raphael liked the length, wider lapels, hopsack fabric, and lower buttoning point. What bothered him were the sleeves, which were too slim and constricted his range of movement. When he moved, the jacket had a large collar gap and was uncomfortable–which is sad, because Raphael really liked the fabric and the unlined nature of the jacket.

This jacket retails at $400.

The sleeves would have to be shortened, but this wasn’t a big deal. Similarly, there was a little bit of wrinkling across the back, although we think this is partly due to the fact that Raphael’s shoulders are naturally a little uneven. All told, the fit was a dealbreaker.

Unlined jacket from Bonobos

Raphael’s Rating: 0.5 out of 5 stars

Meanwhile, Preston’s jacket was the “Jet Setter Stretch Italian Wool Blazer.” This one was also $400, but it wasn’t 100% wool; rather it was 70% wool, 29% cotton, and 1% elastane. It had a summery feel and was noticeably slimmer than Raphael’s jacket. The fabric had a bit of stretch but was actually almost too tight for Preston, which doesn’t happen often! Especially across the top of the back, it was very constricting. In addition, there was also some pulling at the buttoning point which had the odd effect of making the quarters of the jacket stand away and out from Preston’s body, which looked a little strange.

There was some pulling at the buttoning point which had the odd effect of making the quarters of the jacket stand away and out from the body which looked a little strange.

At the same time, we thought that the patch pockets were nice and the lining was decent. The sleeves had four buttons but no buttonholes, so they would be easy to lengthen or shorten. The lapels were a little bit on the slim side, but not too much. Similarly, there was again a little bit of collar gap, but not so much that it would be a deal-breaker. In our opinion the jacket was slightly too short, but again, short jackets are the trend now, so that’s hardly surprising.

The sleeves had four buttons but no holes so it makes it easy to lengthen or shorten it.

Preston’s Rating: 1 out of 5 stars

Blazer Brand 3: Uniqlo

Uniqlo’s jackets only came in medium, large and extra-large sizes. Because it’s a Japanese brand, we assumed it would run quite small, and so we got sizes on the bigger end–which was a mistake because their jackets were really, really large. Uniqlo also offers a custom program that allows you to choose measurements for the chest, the length of the jacket, and the sleeve length, but of course, that wouldn’t qualify as an off-the-rack jacket. On top of that, we couldn’t figure out if we could return a jacket if we ordered it and it didn’t fit. So, both Raphael and Preston got the “Men’s Stretch Wool Slim-Fit Jacket,” which frankly, looked more like a suit jacket in navy blue than a true blazer.

Uniqlo’s XL ended up being too big for Raphael.

This jacket retails for about $150, and we got the XL size for Raphael at first (which corresponds to a height of six feet and chest 44 to 47), so we figured that would be right, but it fit like a tent. It was just way too roomy and big, but it felt comfortable because the fabric had 2% of spandex to 98% of wool. This jacket again has a more modern style with a center vent and a slimmer lapel; also, there wasn’t a lot of shoulder padding.

The spandex made the jacket a lot more comfortable.

The fabric was softer than that of H&M, but for $150 you just can’t expect top-notch fabrics. Now, the spandex really helped because it increased the range of movement and made the jacket a lot more comfortable. Once we got the XL size and realized it was too big, we also got the L size shortly thereafter, and it fit much better. This jacket did have a lining, and it also had flapped pockets which are pretty standard on a lot of the jackets we looked at.

Pick stitching.

What Raphael liked about the Uniqlo jacket was the high armhole; even though the sleeves were rather slim, the added flexibility of the fabric paired with extra fabric in the back made the jacket super comfortable. It also meant that the collar didn’t gap too much–or at least less than all the other jackets. When we ordered the jacket, it just came in a small package and so it had some wrinkles on the sleeves. We used a steamer to get out the wrinkles, but unfortunately, this didn’t quite work. In order to get the wrinkles out, you’d have to iron the jacket. It had a bit of pick stitching which was machine-made. Raphael would have given the XL jacket 1 out of 5 stars, because it was simply too big, but the L fit much better. The wool wasn’t as good but it was definitely the most comfortable of all of the sampled jackets. We were impressed by the sleeve length, as well. For 150 bucks, that’s hard to beat, off the rack!

Raphael’s Rating: 3.5 out of 5 stars

As mentioned, Preston got the same jacket model here as Raphael, but in a size M. The smaller sizes were for men 5’8” and under, and since Preston is over 5’10”, we decided that going any smaller than medium would be inadvisable. Looking like an orphaned suit jacket, this garment had too much fabric for Preston’s build and had huge armholes. Out of curiosity, Raphael tried it on, and this is actually what inspired him to order the size L jacket after the fact!

The Uniqlo jacket was oversized for Preston.

Preston’s Rating: 1.5 out of 5 stars

Blazer Brand 4: Suitsupply

SRS: Next up is Suitsupply. For Raphael, we got the “Havana” navy jacket in size 44. Comfort-wise, it was better than Bonobos. It also had a lot more styling details, including a rounded barchetta breast pocket, no lining, and faux buttonholes, but Raphael really liked the look of it. This jacket had the least amount of wrinkles out of the box and looked good while standing naturally. Unfortunately, it all was a little snug. Even though a 44 regular is usually Raphael’s size, a 46 probably would have been better here, because Suitsupply’s jackets seem to run a little small. We would suggest you try a Suitsupply jacket in person, or you go up a size (or sometimes even two) from your standard.

The sleeves, again, were very slim here so there was a limited range of motion. But because the fabric had a little bit of give, that compensated at least somewhat. The fabrics that Suitsupply uses in the sub-$500 range are pretty much high-quality. Also, details such as pick stitching are the most present in Suitsupply jackets (seen on the pockets and lapels as well as elsewhere). Overall it’s a wrinkle-resistant jacket and Raphael liked it a lot better than the Bonobos jacket, but it was still a little tight and there was a collar gap, so it was uncomfortable.

Raphael’s Rating: 2.5 out of 5 stars

Meanwhile, Preston’s Suitsupply jacket was a 38 regular in blue from their “Washington” line, and even though he liked the peak lapels on it (as they did a lot to accent his chest and figure), there was still a lot of collar gap. Because of this, the jacket also rode up kind of oddly in the front. The fabric was nice; it’s from an Italian mill called Angelico, and it did drape a little bit nicely in that regard, but the fit still killed it overall. It also had really short sleeves and funny details, such as five cuff buttons and the combination of peak lapels with patch pockets, though the unlined back was a nice touch. These odd pairing are common for Suitsupply; they also market things like suit pants with drawstrings, for example.

Preston’s Suitsupply jacket had really short sleeves and funny details such as five cuff buttons.

Preston’s Rating: 2 out of 5 stars

Blazer Brand 5: Banana Republic

Fit-wise, Banana Republic offers a pretty standard lineup, meaning that they have standard and slim chest widths and also short, regular, and long lengths. Interestingly, even though we wanted a blazer, here we had to technically order a suit-separate jacket, because they didn’t just offer regular blazers. (Here’s our comprehensive list of the differences between suit jackets, blazers, and sport coats.) Now, with a price of $398 for this jacket, we had high expectations. We got a size 44 regular for Raphael, but he was quickly disappointed. It had a stiffer interlining and the fit wasn’t good. The sleeves had kissing buttons and the lapels and collar of the jacket were both on the smaller side, with the effect that it stood away from his frame a little bit.

The sleeve length of these jackets is longer than the others.

The jacket had side vents, the fabric wasn’t super soft, and in terms of movement and range, it was roughly on-par with the H&M jackets. It also had larger armholes, shoulder padding, and a lower-quality fabric (a stretch virgin wool from Italian mill Marzotto which is 99% of wool 1% elastane).

Raphael’s Rating: 0.5 out of 5 stars

Once again, Preston got the same jacket at the same price–but of course, in a 38 regular. The lapel was definitely super slim and the position of the buttoning point was good, but overall, the fit was just way too large throughout the body. The slightly stiffer inner lining made it feel more mass-produced, especially compared to the fabric of Bonobos or maybe Suitsupply, and as they were in the same price range, this was disappointing.

The fit of the Banana Republic Jacket was much too large on Preston.

The sleeves of this jacket were a little bit longer than some of the others, which was positive for Preston (who has long arms for his build). It had four cuff buttons and faux buttonholes. This could actually be a bad thing, because when you have too much detailing, it’s harder to change the length of the sleeve; a tailor might have to do it from the shoulder rather than the end.

Preston’s Rating: 1 out of 5 stars

Blazer Brand 6: Brooks Brothers

Brooks Brothers‘ lineup was quite impressive; they had four different fits (including skinny, slim, and standard, and one that we found more difficult to understand), and also different lengths, as well as an extra-large option. Their jackets were also a little more interesting; they had cool linings, contrasting threads, and so on. Overall, it was fun to shop on their website. All the classic fit blazers in the “Madison” style are over $500, so Raphael got what was called the “Regent” fit, which was somewhere in-between a slim and a regular one. Out of the box, it felt really lightweight and breathable with a nice fabric. It was definitely more comfortable than the Suitsupply jacket; maybe not quite as much as Uniqlo but that was pretty much the only one that it was beaten by in terms of comfort and fit.

Mother-of-pearl buttons on a Brooks Brothers blazer.

This jacket was unlined across the back, and it also had mother-of-pearl buttons, which made it an actual blazer instead of just a sport coat or orphaned suit jacket. This was evidence that Brooks Brothers has some knowledge of its own history. The interlining wasn’t super soft or super-stiff; Raphael thought it was a good blend. This jacket was fairly wrinkle-resistant and probably could have been worn right out of the box–which was quite surprising! It was made in Thailand, and generally fit well; it just gapped a little too much around the collar, and when moving around it wasn’t quite as comfortable as Uniqlo. Raphael liked the Bemberg lining, as well. Curiously, while we ordered the 44, and the paper tag said 44, the jacket tag said 43. On top of that, out of the box it had actually a hole in the sleeve.

Raphael’s Brooks Brothers jacket had holes out of the box.

We don’t know if it was just returned and the quality control wasn’t good in the returns process, but as a customer, when you receive stuff in a different size than ordered with a hole, it obviously makes for a negative experience. Still, this jacket scored high overall.

Raphael’s Rating: 3 out of 5 stars

When it came to Preston’s selection, Brooks Brothers only had one option under $500 in a slim fit, which they called the “Stretch Roll Twill Blazer” from their Red Fleece Line. Also strange here: the fabric wasn’t actually twill, so it seems like Brooks Brothers’ staff and knowledge level is not quite what it used to be. This jacket was made in Thailand as well, and it did have contrasting buttons (this time in a gold color) sewn on with red thread, so again, it did look more like a true blazer. On top of that, it had a bold red-white-and-blue lining and patch pockets. The lapels were a little slim, but overall, we’d say that stylistically, Brooks Brothers had the best blazers. There wasn’t too much in the way of collar gapping, and while the armholes were big, they definitely weren’t huge.

The jacket had gold buttons sewn in red giving it a true feel of a blazer.

Preston’s Rating: 3 out of 5 stars

Blazer Brand 7: Orvis

Orvis is mostly an outdoor and sporting brand. Although they do offer a few more formal garments, the only true blazer they have in their lineup is called the “Traveler’s Hopsack Blazer.” It sells for $329, is made in India, and has gold buttons and flapped patch pockets, which out of this lineup was actually quite unusual. Style-wise, it also had three-roll-two styling, meaning it’s a three-button jacket but you roll the lapel so it’s longer, and just button it on the middle button. Sizing options here were a bit more limited; the jacket is only available in regular chest sizes with two lengths, regular and long.

The Orvis jacket also features a three-roll-two button configuration.

Raphael got a size 44, and to him, it felt and looked like a typical 1990s jacket. It was oversized, the sleeves were big, and everything was roomy. We would definitely suggest to size down with Orvis jackets, because they run huge! We did like the gold buttons, and the fabric was sturdy (but had a nice feel) and was fairly wrinkle-resistant as well. This was probably the longest jacket in our lineup. It was all machine-made; the fabric wasn’t 100% wool, but rather a blend, so it will probably wear warm and lead to increased perspiration. Overall, this is a jacket that makes you look like a grandpa. If that’s the look you’re going for, that’s great–but most people will likely not look flattering in this Orvis blazer.

Raphael’s Rating: 1 out of 5 stars

As usual, Preston’s jacket was a 38 regular, which was actually the smallest size they sold. If Raphael thought his jacket fit large on him, Preston’s fit absolutely like a tent! It was enormous, and it looked like a potato sack. Even though the three-roll-two, the flapped patch pockets, and the gold buttons were nice details, and the lapel was a good size, the details don’t matter if the fit is unacceptable.

Despite the nice details, the Orvis jacket still fits like a tent.

Preston’s Rating: 1 out of 5 stars

Blazer Brand 8: Topman

This British label is known for cheap fast-fashion, so they didn’t have a whole lot of options for navy blazers. Raphael got a skinny fit blazer in size 44 regular with notched lapels which retails for $130. The first thing we noticed about this jacket was that the quarters were very rounded and very open, so Raphael’s shirt and waistband would probably show quite easily while wearing this jacket. While that on its own is okay as a stylistic thing, what Raphael really disliked was the fit; in terms of the range of movement and comfort level, the Topman jacket was the most constrictive on Raphael out of all jackets we tested. While we know they’re trying to go for a really slim cut, “slim” shouldn’t mean you can’t move!

The quarters of Raphael’s Topman jacket were very rounded and very open.

This jacket was made in Vietnam and had some more modern styling details, like a super-slim lapel, flap pockets, and a straight chest pocket. The skinny fit and the feel of the jacket led Raphael to give a very succinct review “uncomfortable s**t.”

Raphael’s Rating: 0 out of 5 stars

Preston also got a skinny fit blazer, but his was marketed as “warm-handle,” which means that it’s a thicker and heavier fabric. The price point here was $150. We liked the look of its silhouette, but it had this greenish undertone which made it almost not look like a navy blazer. Since Preston’s a skinny guy and Topman provides a skinny fit, you’d think that it would be a pretty good match. Unfortunately, this wasn’t the case! Just as the lapels were super skinny, the fit overall was so slim that Preston found it very constricting and had almost no range of motion in it.

The fit of both TopMan jackets was very constricting and had almost no range of motion.

It’s our guess that the Topman jacket designs were meant to just look good when you stand and not move at all (in other words, good on a model if you have a modern understanding of men’s fashion), but they’re not really meant to be worn by average people. This jacket had four kissing buttons on the sleeves, with just a faint suggestion of buttonholes, which was a little bit odd.

There are four kissing buttons on the sleeves with just a faint suggestion of buttonholes.

Preston’s Rating: 1 out of 5 stars

Blazer Brand 9: Zara

Last but not least, we got jackets from the Spanish fashion label, Zara. They’re also more fashion-forward and going with the trends, but we were able to find one classic blazer. Again, it was a textured weave birdseye suit jacket. For $149 (now selling for $70), Raphael got a size 44 regular, with a composition of elastane and viscose, and it was noticeably not as nice (even though it was soft). This jacket was made in Turkey, and its quarters were cut away in sort of a classic silhouette.

The Zara jacket’s soft exterior and stiff interlining made for an unpleasant combination.

While the fabric was somewhat soft, the interlining was a little stiffer, so overall the combination wasn’t really great. Brooks Brothers and Suitsupply definitely felt a whole lot nicer–even Uniqlo was a little better. We noticed the arms here were kind of slim, which limited Raphael’s range of movement, and there was also some collar gapping as well. There was definitely some wrinkling in the sleeves, and overall, it felt like a cheap, low-quality jacket.

Raphael’s Rating: 0.5 out of 5 stars

Preston once again got the same jacket here, just in a 38 regular fit. The thin fabric wrinkled quite heavily on Preston, and the jacket had four cuff buttons on its sleeves. The boxy look that it had on him probably wasn’t traditional, but rather something they were going to be more trendy deliberately (as boxy fits are now being seen again on fashion runways). The fit of this jacket seemed pretty strange, in that there was a lot of excess around Preston’s waist, but at the same time, it was tight in the shoulders.

There were a lot of wrinkling in the sleeves of both Zara jackets.

Preston’s Rating: 1 out of 5 stars

Conclusion – Which Blazers Were Best?

Looking at the ratings, Raphael’s favorite was the Uniqlo jacket, because it fit him the best and was the most comfortable. If he would have gotten that fit with a Brooks Brothers or a Suitsupply jacket, he would have liked those more, because they have better fabrics. Preston’s favorite was the Brooks Brothers jacket, largely because of its more traditional styling details and because the fit was decent. As you can tell from all of Preston’s ratings, though, most all of the jackets across the board had relatively poor fits on him (probably because of his unique build).

Raphael’s favorite was the Uniqlo jacket because it fit him the best and was the most comfortable.

Keep in mind that you won’t get good fabrics in a jacket unless you get pretty close to the $500 mark–but if you don’t have a big budget, that doesn’t mean you can’t dress stylishly. We suggest that you look for secondhand goods at places like eBay or a local vintage store because there, with $150 or $200, you can get a jacket with a retail price of maybe $1000 and it’s often gently worn. However, it’s important that you know your measurements, because returning stuff is a little more difficult (even though these days, it’s a lot better than it used to be 10 years ago).

In terms of brands, look for Ralph Lauren Purple Label; Polo; Hugo Boss; maybe something like LBM, which is completely unstructured; Chester Barrie; and Italian brands like Belvest, for example. They pop up more rarely, but if you get something there, usually the prices are lower and it’s overall a huge bang for the buck.

Preston’s favorite was the Brooks Brothers jacket because of its more traditional styling details and because the fit was decent.

If you are not looking at vintage as an option, but at the same time you don’t want to go with off-the-rack, what other options do you have? In a lower price category, online made-to-measure such as Indochino is really a good start. They also have physical stores now, so you can get measured in-person. If they screw up the fit then you’ll get reimbursed or they’ll remake your suit. Also: stay tuned, as we’ll be doing more made-to-measure content and suit brand reviews in the future!

What’s your favorite off-the-rack jacket brand under $500? Share what their best (and worst) features are in the comments section!

Along with things like cufflinks, a collar clip is one of a small handful of men’s jewelry items that can be worn to add a bit of visual interest while still remaining true to classic men’s style. But where cufflinks, pocket squares, neckties, and other items are commonly worn by many well-dressed men, a collar clip is something that you’re not going to see quite as often. So if you know how to wear one, well, you’ll truly be able to stand out from the crowd.

Even if you’ve never worn them yourself, you may still be familiar with them, of course. If you’ve watched stylish TV shows like Mad Men or Boardwalk Empire, for example, you’ll see that many men wore collar jewelry to accentuate their tie knots and give a special extra bit of panache. So, to emulate those earlier styles or just add a bit of extra flair to your more modern outfits, read on to learn about how to wear collar clips well.

The characters of HBO’s Boardwalk Empire frequently sport collar clips.

Collar Jewelry: Pin vs Bar vs Clip

When selecting a collar clip, there are a few initial considerations that you’ll want to keep in mind. The first of these is whether it’s actually a collar clip that you’d like to wear, rather than a collar bar or collar pin. Let’s go over the characteristics of each of these styles, then, so you’ll know how to tell them apart.

Fort Belvedere Collar Jewelry

Collar Pin

As men were moving away from stiff detachable collars to softer turndown collars at the beginning of the 20th century, collar accessories came into fashion–and the most popular of these in the 1910s was the collar pin.

Fort Belvedere Collar pins in Silver and Gold

As the name suggests, it has a pointed tip; it’s similar in shape and construction to a large safety pin, and it’s worn by piercing through the collar of the shirt. Be aware that with repeated use and especially with finer fabric weaves, a collar pin may damage your collars over time but when used in moderation and with proper laundering, your collars should be just fine. At Fort Belvedere, we designed collar pins that are especially thin in diameter to make for minimal damage to shirt collars. They’re available in both silver and gold finishes.

Collar Bar

The collar bar has an end cap that unscrews. The bar is put through specialty holes in the shirt collar and then the end cap is re-fastened. This end cap can be round (so that the collar bar looks like a miniature barbell), but it can also come in a variety of other shapes, including a cube. Fort Belvedere currently offers collar bars in both yellow gold and silver, with ends that are spherical, cubical, and hexagonally prismatic.

Collar Bar with Ball End in Silver by Fort Belvedere

Keep in mind that a collar bar can only be worn with specially constructed shirts that have pre-made holes in the collar. Because of this, it’s the least versatile option, but it’s also the most formal.

Collar Clip

First invented in 1921, the collar clip (also historically called a “collar grip”) experienced widespread popularity throughout the rest of that decade, as well as sporadically thereafter (including the early 1950s). It is a piece of metal that uses tension to stay in place on the points of the collar. It can either be a solid piece with bifurcated ends that separate and pinch together, or it can have hinged clamps at each end.

This vintage collar clip has bifurcated ends that hold the collar using tension.

Collar clips are typically going to be the least secure of the three collar jewelry options, because they’re the least firmly attached. They might come undone from one side of your collar if you’re not paying attention, or they might even come off entirely. On the other hand, the collar clip is clearly the most versatile option, as you don’t have to find a specialty shirt with holes in the collar, and you also won’t have a risk of damage to your collar as you would with a collar pin.

Fort Belvedere Collar Clips (in a new, longer length!)

As you might expect, our Fort Belvedere collar clips are designed to hold firm on your collar, and they’ve been rigorously tested to ensure this. Our models come with hinged clamps and they’re available in silver, yellow gold, and rose gold finishes to harmonize with your other accessories, such as Fort Belvedere cufflinks, for example. Collar bars are naturally going to sit straight on your collar due to the design of the shirt collar itself, but with collar pins and collar clips, you’ll want to take an extra moment to ensure that the accessory is sitting straight. In contrast to something like a tie bar, where a slight angle can give a dash of sprezzatura, a crooked collar clip is going to look decidedly un-stylish.

Always make sure that your collar clip is sitting straight

How Should You Choose A Collar Clip?

For simplicity’s sake, we’re going to use the term “collar clip” most often throughout the rest of the article, but keep in mind that most of this advice can be applied to all three styles.

Color and Finish

After you’ve decided what type of collar jewelry you’d like to wear, your next consideration should probably be the color of the metal. You’re most often going to have the choice of silver or gold (either yellow gold or rose gold), but you could also consider things like a brushed versus a polished finish. Which color and finish you choose can largely come down to what other metals you’re wearing elsewhere around your outfit. As we’ve said before, trying to match your metals somewhat closely across your outfit is generally a good idea, though they don’t have to match 100%.

It’s always a good idea to pair the colors of your metal accessories, though the match doesn’t have to be perfect. [Pictured along with the collar clip and vintage ring are the Fort Belvedere Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Tiger’s Eye Stones)

Size

Typically, you’re going to find collar clips in about the 1.5 to 2-inch range, although they can vary. Longer collar clips can sometimes be a bit loose and fail to draw the points of the collar together and accentuate the tie knot, but this doesn’t always have to be the case. There are more factors to consider to be able to choose the best collar clip size for any outfit.

More Considerations for Choosing A Collar Clip

Aside from the details of the accessory itself, there are also a few other considerations you’ll want to make concerning other aspects of your outfit. 

Type of Shirt Collar

The type of shirt collar you’re wearing is obviously going to matter. A collar clip is typically going to work best with a collar style that has its points relatively close together, like a traditional point collar or spear collar. And if the points are especially on the long side, as would be the case with a spear collar, the collar clip will be able to pull them together and flatten the bottoms out, giving you a bit of a collar roll which can sometimes be desirable.

A vintage-style spear point collar from Revival Vintage in the UK

If you’re going for an especially vintage or traditional look, you could try a rounded club collar or its rarer cousin, the square collar. But obviously here, something like a wing collar isn’t going to work.

A wing collar isn’t going to work with collar clips

Also, don’t wear a collar clip with any type of collar that has its own fasteners built-in, like a button-down or tab collar. While it is true that collar jewelry was sometimes worn with these collar styles when it was first introduced in the 1920s and again in the ’50s, we would strongly advise against trying to pair them together in this day and age. It’s a look that’s just a bit too busy and affected. In other words, one element of visual interest on your collar is going to be enough. Furthermore, if you’re wearing a shirt with a collar that typically takes collar stays, the stays are going to need to be removed before you put on the collar clip.

Make sure to remove collar stays before you put on a collar clip

Collar Clip Length

With collar clips of a typical length in the range of 2 inches, you’re going to want to stay away from spread collars, because the collar clip isn’t going to bring the points of the collar together attractively, and might not even reach all the way across properly. With that said, however, we’ve received numerous requests from patrons of the Fort Belvedere Shop to introduce a longer version of our collar clips to accommodate the wider spreads of modern shirt collars–and we’re happy to report that we’ve done so! You can now find longer versions of our yellow gold, rose gold, and silver collar clips in the Fort Belvedere Shop, and don’t worry, because the original designs are still available, too.

Large Collar Clip in Rose Gold, Yellow Gold & Platinum Silver

While these new designs are longer, they’re just as slim in profile so you won’t have to worry about any added bulk–and the hinged clips are just as secure, as well. You’ll want to position them higher on your collar to make sure that they reach both sides of the spread collar comfortably. As before, we wouldn’t recommend them with extreme spread or cutaway collars, but they should harmonize well with any standard spread collar (just as our original collar clip designs work ideally well with the classic point collar style).

Type of Necktie

While you may have seen photos of celebrities or fashion models wearing collar jewelry with no neckwear, we really wouldn’t recommend this look. After all, it’s just that — a fashion statement, rather than a look rooted in classic style. In addition to keeping your collar points close together and secure, one of the main reasons for wearing a collar clip is to accentuate your tie knot by puffing it out slightly. Many men will try to achieve this look of an arched tie just by playing with the way they tie the knot. However, a collar clip achieves this effortlessly.

Wearing a collar clip without neckwear isn’t a look we would recommend.

Whether wearing a traditionally sized collar clip and a point collar, or a longer collar clip and a spread collar, in both cases we would recommend that you go for a tie that has a thin interlining or no interlining at all; and also go for a smaller necktie knot such as the four-in-hand or the oriental knot. It goes without saying, then, that the collar clip should be positioned under the knot of the necktie. Of course, wearing a collar clip with a bow tie is also a no-go, since they’re really just going to get in the way of one another.

Oriental Tie Knot with a purple Fort Belvedere tie

Overall Outfit Formality

Finally, consider the formality. You’ll want to keep in mind that generally, any type of collar jewelry is a relatively formal accessory. After all, wearing a piece of collar jewelry is going to necessitate that you’re wearing a tie; therefore, you’re probably going to be at least into the smart casual realm of dressing, if not even more formal. A collar clip will work well with any typically business-appropriate, long-sleeve, button-up shirt, and it might work somewhat better with a suit than with a combination of a sport coat and odd trousers (though the latter look definitely can work). Because of their metal buttons and slightly more formal construction, blazers will go well with collar jewelry, too.

A blazer’s metal buttons and formal construction make it a good complement to collar jewelry.

Another particularly interesting option is to pair a collar clip with a cardigan or other type of sweater–children’s television host Fred Rogers would be a great example of this look. If you want to make the look especially casual, going for something like a knit tie and corduroys in addition to the sweater, remember that a collar pin would probably be the least formal type of collar jewelry.

Fred Rogers pairing a collar clip with a cardigan

Stylish Ways to Wear Collar Clips

To provide some additional style inspiration, what follows are six example outfits featuring collar jewelry.

1. Business Outfit

We’ll start here with a typical business outfit, which might be characterized by something like a darker blue or gray suit paired with a white shirt and white pocket square, in addition to a collar clip. This will give you a very polished and formal look overall.

Gray suit paired with a white shirt and white pocket square, shepherd’s check silk tie, and platinum silver collar clip

2. Business Casual Outfit

One step down from there would be a business casual outfit, with a tweed vest in blue, a madder silk tie, and a silver collar clip paired with a white shirt. This is going to be slightly less formal than the typical business outfit, of course, but still office-appropriate in most situations.

Tweed Vest business casual outfit

3. Country Outfit

Moving from town to country, we could focus on an outfit with something like a tweed jacket (in houndstooth with an over-plaid) and a rose gold collar clip that goes well with the jacket’s warm tones. We’re using a yellow knit tie with an oriental knot. The shirt is off-white and has a herringbone pattern and a club collar that works particularly well with a collar clip. Here, a madder silk pocket square completes the look nicely.

Tweed jacket in houndstooth with an over plaid and a rose gold collar clip paired with a yellow knit tie

4. Summer Outfit

An especially summery outfit would consist of a summer sport coat paired with a purple madder silk tie with tones of red and green, a white pocket square, and a light pink boutonniere to give the look a uniformly summery feel. The collar clip here is silver, as are the other pieces of jewelry around the outfit (including cufflinks and rings).

Summer sport coat paired with a purple madder silk tie with tones of red and green, a white pocket square and a light pink boutonniere

5. Blazer Outfit

Moving from an outfit featuring a sport coat to one featuring a blazer, this outfit also features a Winchester shirt (which is one that has a contrasting white collar). In this case, it’s a club collar, and we’re also using an English printed tie with a reddish tone that also has some yellow and beige to harmonize with the gold collar clip. Adding additional character are the white pocket square, blue cornflower boutonniere, and the blazer itself, which has a faint windowpane pattern. 

A collar clip paired with a classic navy blazer

6. Casual Outfit

Lastly, we have an example of an especially casual outfit. We’ve got a gray and green knitted wool cardigan paired with a vintage red silk tie, and a collar clip in gold to add an extra element of visual interest.

Gray and green knitted wool cardigan paired with a vintage red silk tie and a collar clip in gold

Conclusion

Collar jewelry is a great addition to classic outfits, as it will emphasize your tie knot, as well as add luster and visual interest to your look. If you’re looking to add collar clips, bars, or pins that are stylish and built to last, check out the Fort Belvedere Shop!

Our Previous Video On This Topic

If you have been with us for a while, you may have already seen our video from years ago on collar clips. We’ve come a long way since we first filmed and posted it. Even so, for those interested, here’s our original video!

How often do you wear collar jewelry? What’s your favorite style? Let us know in the comments below!

In this day and age, we’re surrounded by leather; it’s in furniture, in leather goods such as bags, dopp kits, shoes (especially dress shoes), belts, portfolios, pen pouches, and more. Today, we’ll discuss the differences between chrome-tanned leather and vegetable (or “veg”)-tanned leather, which is better in various applications, and what you should invest your money in.

Really nice leathers, especially exotic leathers can be very expensive and so people expect them to last for quite a while. Because of that, a lot of terms are used to describe leather as being superior to other leathers in order to justify a higher price tag. Sadly, these terms are not legally protected and so a lot of people use them in many different ways thus, confusing the consumer and just a reason to make their products expensive.

Leather in Menswear

In recent years, vegetable leather has gotten an increasingly better reputation especially among leather and shoe enthusiasts. Paired with the fact that the vast majority of all leathers in the world today is chrome tanned, many people now associate that a high quality leather must be veg tanned and chrome tanned is always inferior. However, that couldn’t be further from the truth, no matter if you use leather for upholstery, gloves, shoes, or other leather goods.

Before we talk about vegan and chrome tanned leather, we have to understand why hides or skins need to be tanned in the first place to become leather. Even though there are technical advancements today and people are trying to grow leather in a petri dish, the leather you can buy today that is not vegan is always derived from animal hides or skins.

Hides piled up outside the tannery around 1900

It’s always called hide if it comes from a larger animal like a cow or steer and it’s called skin if it comes from a smaller animal like a lamb. So, leather is nothing other than a hide or a skin that is preserved so it can be used and it doesn’t mold or rot or decay.

The process to get something from a skin or a hide that may dry out or rot to leather that is beautiful and long-lasting is called tanning. The term tanning is derived from tannins which is a natural substance that you can find in tree barks, leaves, and fruits for example. Through tanning, we make skins more durable, flexible, and also softer and much more beautiful.

Leathers & Their Characteristics

Horse Butts in the Tanning Solution

Types of Leather

There are many different types of leathers and all of the different characteristics influence the final product in different ways. For example, a skin or hide can come from different animals. It can be a cow or a calf, can be a crocodile, an alligator, a goat or even a kudu. There are also many exotic leathers such as elephant or lizard or even salmon or stingray.

Carmina alligator double monk strap shoe

Leather Qualities

The leather qualities are often described as top grain which is then subdivided into full-grain and corrected grain and you also talk about aniline and semi-aniline dyed, as well as pigment dyed, and nubuck and suede leather as well as split leather. You can also have different finishes such as printed leather, embossed leather, or patent leather. On top of that, the tanning process can be different it can be chromed tanned, veg tanned, a combination thereof or be a chamois leather for example.

Patent Leather Opera Pumps with Satin Bow and Black Silk Socks

Country of Origin

Last but not least, the country of origin is often used to imply a higher quality standard. Just think of Italian leather for example and how it is used in marketing today. Even within countries, every tanner has a slightly different recipe that they protect and keep in their family and as a result, there are thousands of different kinds of leathers even though they may all be Italian box calf leathers.

These are lots of terms and today, we’re only going to cover veg-tanned and chrome-tanned and all the other types of leathers and the quality classifications will be covered in another post so stay tuned.

The Tricker’s boot factory in Northampton, England–a town known for footwear

Veg & Chrome Tanned Leathers

Traditionally, all leathers were vegetable-tanned because that’s what was available. Chrome tanning wasn’t invented until 1840 and it used a chromium sulfate salt to accelerate the tanning process and to provide different properties to the final product. The introduction of chromium soles was probably the biggest change in tanning history up until then and ever since.

The Leather Tanning Process

1. Sourcing Raw Hides

Even though veg-tanned leathers and chrome tanned leathers are different things, the beginning of the process of tanning are all the same. It all starts with the raw hides and typically, they’re a byproduct of the meat industry. So generally, no animals are killed just to get their hides to make leather out of it. For example, let’s look at calf leather. It’s derived from calves for the meat and then you end up with the raw skin that still has the hair on now. Even at this stage, you can find quality differences. For Fort Belvedere products, we only use calf hides that come from alpine cows or calves and because of that, they have fewer bug bites and the final result will be a leather with fewer imperfections.

Leather – mostly cowhide is used

2. Removing Hair

In a tannery, the first step is to remove the hair and to do so, they’re immersed in a chemical solution for about 24 hours. Even though the hair today is removed by a machine with a knife, in the past it used to be done with a dull knife or a special tool with metal but you can even do it by hand. Of course, machines are much quicker and more efficient and so they don’t just remove the hair but also any bits of flesh or fat that may still be on the skin. While many tanneries simply discard the hair, others use it as a biofuel so they truly don’t waste anything in the process.

Horse hides that have not yet had the hair removed

3. Rinsing

The next step, a talkum solution is sprayed onto those raw hides and then they are placed in wooden barrels where they’re rotated regularly over the course of a day or two. During this rinsing process, the PH of the hides or the skins is lowered so the hides are in perfect condition to be subsequently tanned. So in other words, this is just the pre-tanning process and the real tanning comes afterward.

Once the hide is at the right PH, they come out of the barrels and they now have this unnaturally light blue color because of the talkum solution. The regular ends are cut off and using machines, the leather is brought to a uniform thickness. Up until this point, veg tanned and chrome tanned leather undergo the exact same process.

Vegetable Tanning

Not all veg-tanned leathers are the same and of course, it depends on a specific recipe and the purpose of the leather later but they will all be tanned using tannins. For example, for shoe sole leather, tannins from oak bark are often used. Others use tannins from the chestnut tree or chestnut fruits themselves or the mimosa tree. Sometimes, the tannins are also derived from leaves.

Double leather sole made of oak bark tanned leather

Typically, when used in a tannery, they arrive in the form of a powder that is then just mixed with water to create a tanning solution. The prepared hides are then fully immersed in this water and tannin bath. Most veg tanneries have different pits with tanning solutions of a different concentration and a hide may start out in the lowest concentration one and move all the way up to the highest concentration one thus, yielding in a superior product. This entire process can take months and sometimes 15 months. Once the tanning process is completed and the height is preserved, it is now time to color them.

4. Softening & Treating

After the tanning, the hides are quite stiff and hard and so you can also soften them and the coloring and the softening is done again in drums — they can be metal drums but traditionally they used to be wooden drums. Depending on the desired finish, things like fats or waxes such as beef tallow or beeswax can now be added and even though they’re hard under room temperature conditions, heat can be applied to make sure it’s evenly coated on the top surface of the final leather.

Wet leather hides–note the blue color from the addition of chromium salts

Again, every tanner and every tanning family has their secret recipes and procedures that are not public knowledge. Because of that, leathers from different tanneries may look alike at first but once you get closer, once you touch it, once you feel it and smell it, you can always tell there are subtle differences between the leathers.

Burgundy Touchscreen Dress Gloves Lamb Nappa Leather by Fort Belvedere

Leather is typically tanned, treated and finished with a specific goal purpose in mind. So a shoe upper leather has to be different than a shoe sole leather has to be different than a glove leather or leather you want to use for a bag or small leather goods. Why? Well, just think about the glove made out of a stiff leather. It’s not just uncomfortable, it also doesn’t fit well and you want some flexibility because your hand moves. At the same time, if you use this leather on the soles of your shoes, it’ll be worn out in a few weeks.

5. Washing & Finishing

Once the leather is colored and has the right softness, it is washed and then the moisture is usually mechanically removed or it is air-dried under very specific conditions of temperature and humidity levels. Last but not least, the finishing process of leather can have a huge impact on how it’s perceived, and sometimes a lower quality leather at this stage can look really really great because someone really understands how to finish leather well.

There are differences in whether the leather is stained and padded by hand or by machine. It can also be spray finished or embossed or rubbed or sanded. You can also buff it, roll it, polish it, or have a combination thereof.

Examples of Vegetable-Tanned Leather

Tannins can also be found in urine and so there are traditional ways of tending leather using urine. Yes, you heard right–pee! I even know people who went to Morocco and bought a really nice leather bag. They brought it back to their apartment in Chicago, and one day they came home and the entire place smelled like urine. Well, they realized it was the leather bag and it had to go.

In recent years, veg tanning has again become increasingly popular and you can find veg tanners on basically every continent except maybe Antarctica. However, in certain parts of the world, veg tanning has never been out of fashion.

There’s this little town of Santa Croce in Italy where you find hundreds of different tanners all focused on veg leather tanning. There is even a consortium called Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetale. These people are solely dedicated to veg tan leather in a traditional way but that doesn’t mean that innovation stops there. They constantly try to improve their leathers and what they’ve come up with are some really beautiful colors and finishes that are of very high quality.

Other famous examples of veg-tanned leather are the oak bark tanned leathers from Johann Rendenbach in Germany or J & FJ Baker in England. But of course, you can also find them in Italy and other countries. When it comes to upper leather, one particularly beautiful and special veg tanned leather is the Russian grain calf from Baker in England. Not only does it have a special hatch grain embossed look but is also pit tanned over the course of 14 months. The tannins are derived from oak, willow, and birch barks and they even add things like fish oil to the process. In the end, they add a birch oil which gives it a very strong and smoky smell that is just wonderful.

As mentioned earlier, there are tons of tanneries in the Santa Croce area who all produce beautiful leathers. It takes a long time to tan veg-tanned leathers and color them and because typically, they’re not pigment dyed or coated on top, it usually means veg-tanned leathers start out with higher quality skins and it is a high-quality product in the end as well. And that, of course, means it costs more than conventionally chrome tanned leathers.

Chrome Tanning

When it comes to chrome tanning, the number one reason people use chromium salts is because this speeds up the tanning process, and the tanning itself can be done in less than a day. On the one hand, big factories of chrome-tanned leather can be almost fully automated from start to finish but it can also be made in a very traditional craftsman style way like veg tanned leather.

Probably, 90% or more of the leathers today are chrome tanned and because of that, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the quality spectrum and the difference in the hides is much bigger for chrome tanned leathers than it is for veg-tanned leathers.

Again, while many enthusiasts now assume that veg tanned leather is always superior to chrome tanned leather, I urge you to not take this as a fact because they’re excellent chrome tanners such as Weinheimer or formerly Freudenberg, which provide for example the upper leathers for all the high-end bespoke shoe and shoe makers in the world and people love their stuff and it’s chrome tanned.  Also, high-quality brands like Hermes use chrome-tanned leather and they really focus big time on quality. So just saying leather is better or more high quality because this veg tanned, is simply not true.

Advantages & Disadvantages

1. Softness

Chrome tanning allows you to end up with leathers that are really thin, soft and flexible which is perfect for glove production. And because of that, at Fort Belvedere, we only use chromed tanned leathers for our gloves. They’re either derived from peccary skins from Peru or lamb nappa skins that are originally from Ethiopia and they’re then tanned in Italy. That way, we make sure you get a glove that is super soft, that fits you well that is really comfortable to wear and of course it looks very dapper.

Fort Belvedere Regular Gloves and Driving Gloves

2. Water-Resistance

Chrome tanned is naturally a little more water repellent than a veg-tanned leather. That being said, you can treat leathers today with the fluorocarbons that make water pearl right off. Of course, you can also get a suede spray and spray leather afterward but it’s usually not as effective as when it’s part of the dyeing process and the tanning process.

3. Colorfastness

Chrome leather also typically holds color much better, is more colorfast and you can also have a much larger range of brighter colors versus veg-tanned leathers are oftentimes a little more subdued which can be elegant and nice, but you just can’t replicate that full-color spectrum that you can on chromed tanned leathers.

4. Heat-Resistance

Chrome leather also endures heat better which is one of the reasons why actually burnishing which is a process of using wax and heat to seal edges is much easier on veg-tanned leather. 

5. Absorbency & Patina

Because most veg-tanned leathers are aniline or semi-aniline dyed, they have a nice open pore structure which is absorbent and so any type of sweat, fat or wax that you expose the leather to over the course of regular use, helps to develop a unique patina. On the flip side, chrome tanned leathers especially the ones that are pigment dyed will not develop that same kind of a patina but you can have an aniline-dyed, chrome tanned leather that will also develop a beautiful patina over time.

So in nutshell, chrome tanned leathers allow for soft, supple and durable leathers that can be held in a wide range of colors and on the flip side, a veg-tanned leather is oftentimes more muted in the color but it has a nice soft and supple touch and can be beautifully burnished and it develops a nice patina.

What Are Veg & Chrome Tanned Leathers Best For?

While some people swear by one or the other, we believe that there is space for both depending on the use case. For example, a shoe lining should preferably be veg-tanned because it’s much closer to your skin. Also, if you have an allergy to chrome, chrome leather is of course off the table. You want your wallet to look good three years down the line, you probably want some chrome tanning. On the other hand, if you wanted to have bent edges and really darken over time and get this patina that tells a history, then the veg-tanned leather is better.

The colors of the chrome tanned leather remain unchanged during the product’s entire lifespan.

In terms of the environment, veg-tanned leather is definitely better because the tannins are natural material versus chrome tanning requiring those chromium soles which are not easy on the environment. It also requires a lot of water to wash everything out which in many parts of the world is a rare good. At Fort Belvedere, we always try to understand, “What are we trying to achieve?” For example, for a belt leather or belt lining, I would stick with chrome leather because it’s more colorfast and it doesn’t color off on your clothes. The same is true for soft glove leather.

Raphael looking dapper wearing petrol blue gloves from Fort Belvedere

On the other hand, if we were to make a leather bag, I could see us using veg tanned leather or if we have shoe soles or shoe linings.

How Can You Tell The Difference?

Well, frankly just by looking at it and touching it, can be quite difficult. When I went to Linea Pelle, I showed people certain leathers. Even tanner families that have been doing this for generations weren’t always able to tell if something was veg tanned or chrome tanned. The best way to find out what it is is obviously to have it sent to a lab but that’s often impractical and very costly so you can also burn the leather. I found out that if you burn a veg-tanned leather, it kind of has white smoke when the flame goes out, the flame is very orange and it doesn’t have a very strong a particular smell.

On the flip side, if you burn a chrome tanned leather, it usually has a more bluish smoke and it really smells strongly and unpleasantly. So when you have that smell, it is likely a chrome tanned leather. Of course, this is not helpful if you have a finished leather good so don’t just burn your shoe because then you won’t be able to use it, of course. So, next time you buy a pair of shoes or some leather goods, make sure you bring your lighter and burn a hole into it and try to smell to figure out what kind of leather it is. Just kidding!

Buying Veg & Chrome Tanned Leather

If you still can’t decide whether you should buy veg tanned leather or chrome tanned leather, I’ve good news for you. Just buy the best of both worlds such as Horween Chromexcel which is actually a combination of chrome tanned and veg tanned.

Moc Toe construction with Horween Chromexcel leather

Past, I visited the tannery myself and I saw how they did it. So, why would you combine chrome and veg tanned? Well, you get good properties of both. You get the softness and the suppleness of the chrome tan but you also get an interesting color depth of the veg tan. What they do there too, they call it hot stuffing where they use tallow and beeswax and heat to create a pull-up effect which means when you pull on the leather, the wax and the fat on top is a little bit removed and it gets lighter and over time it darkens again and that just creates a wonderful patina.

Sven Raphael’s Leather Weekender bag has developed a great patina

However, not everyone likes this because it’s really different when you pull on it but I think on furniture leather, for example, it looks awesome.

Conclusion – Veg Tanned vs. Chrome Tanned: Which is Better?

Again, there is no absolute right or wrong. There is just the purpose that you want and personal preferences like if you have a chrome allergy, of course, don’t get chrome tanned leather or maybe have it in a part where you never touch it directly. What’s much more important is that how leather is tanned is, if the leather is in general of high quality.

Raphael wearing a Belstaff Trailmaster jacket that’s made of chrome tanned leather combined with a Fort Belvedere brown belt that’s also chrome tanned in the inside.

Do you have a preference between chrome-tanned and veg-tanned leathers? Share with us in the comments!

For those in the know, the character of Perry Mason has been at the center of many types of media. He’s probably most well known, though, as the main character of a long-running television series (which was, in turn, based on a series of books by author Erle Stanley Gardner). Today, however, we’ll take a look at the new Perry Mason series from HBO and analyze its style.

Perry Mason: Small-Screen Menswear Style Review

The original TV series was broadcast from 1957 to 1966, running for 9 seasons and 271 episodes. In it, actor Raymond Burr portrayed Perry Mason as a clean-shaven, unflappable defense attorney who was always able to get people to confess to a crime on the witness stand. We’re not going to discuss the style of the original series in-depth today; partly because much of it was shot in black and white, and partly because most of the styles featured were in the mod and jet-age fashions of the late ’50s and the early ’60s, which were clean but overall, unremarkable.

Unflappable defense attorney Perry Mason, as portrayed in the original TV series by Raymond Burr.

Meanwhile, the new series from HBO (which features Matthew Rhys in the title role) is a gritty and noir-ish origin story for the character, attempting to make him seem more like a real person with human flaws. This series introduces us to the character at possibly his lowest point: as an unemployed, divorced owner of a now-defunct dairy farm on the edges of Los Angeles in 1932. Not only is the city in the throes of The Great Depression, but there’s also quite a bit of institutional corruption going on, which we see plainly. Thankfully for us as viewers, this new series is far more interesting from a stylistic point of view, and for clothes buffs, this is a particularly special time in the history of menswear.

The Golden Age of Menswear

At this point in the 1930s, men’s style had completely emerged from the Victorian era into the modern era. The Prince of Wales (later to be the Duke of Windsor) was setting style trends the world over, and menswear overall was at its most detailed, elegant, and flattering in all of the 20th century–at least, in our opinion.

At this point in the 1930s, men’s style had completely emerged from the Victorian era into the modern era.

This show exemplifies everything we love about 1930s fashion. From the rich fabric patterns to the classic and flattering silhouettes, to the copious wearing of hats and other accessories, we think it’s really the height of classic menswear. In fact, we appreciate the style of this era so much that we wrote a book about it: Gentlemen of the Golden Age. Of course, it must be stated that at this time, racism, inequality, poverty, unemployment, and corruption were all running rampant–and this isn’t something that’s glossed over by the show. We won’t go into the details of the plot here, but the costumes worn by the various characters are a treat for the eyes and for any lover of classic men’s style.

Style Breakdown: Perry Mason

At least at the beginning of the series, Perry’s style does an excellent job of illustrating just what state he’s in. He’s a grizzled World War I veteran, desperate and downtrodden, and in some scenes, is portrayed as really just above homeless. His most distinctive style choice is a worn leather jacket. This is somewhat unique, as leather jackets aren’t typically worn as outerwear by most men in this time period (unless specifically required as part of one’s job, say, for example, being a pilot). Still, this jacket gives him a distinctively working-class air and helps him to keep a low profile when he’s doing things like investigating and searching for clues.

Perry’s style does an excellent job of illustrating just what state he’s in.

He owns only one suit; a simple gray wool suit with a notched lapel, that is baggy and somewhat rumpled in its fit–really in the style of a sack suit. He favors striped or patterned shirts in shades of pale brown or ivory, which for someone of his means, would be easy to maintain in that day and age. He rarely buttons up his collars entirely, which adds to his dilapidated air. He also wears the short patterned ties that were characteristic of the era. However, he doesn’t pair these ties with higher-rise trousers, which also would have been common at the time. We’re not sure if this was just an oversight on the part of the costume designer, or a deliberate choice of Mason the character.

Perry Mason’s only suit early in the series is a simple gray sack suit, somewhat rumpled in appearance.

To show how little he cares about his appearance, his clothes are often dirty and worn and he’ll wear them in multiple scenes, sometimes over multiple days. In one scene, he even pays the coroner to let him take a necktie from one of the residents of his morgue. At the time though, many men didn’t actually own a lot of clothing, so it’s accurate to show many of the male characters (aside from the affluent ones) repeatedly wearing the same clothes over and over again. Importantly though, while Perry Mason is on the fringes of polite society, he still upholds the base level of what would be considered as acceptable clothing for a man at that time.

To show how little he cares about his appearance, his clothes are often dirty.

He always wears a jacket outside of the home, for instance; collared and button-up shirts are the norm; he’ll almost always be wearing a tie in social situations; and he’ll wear a hat whenever he’s outdoors. Given Perry’s practical approach, analytical mind, and what we expect to be his eventual transformation into a justice-bent defense attorney, we think that he’ll probably get his style act together in the future as the series continues. Maybe it won’t be quite to the same finely-wrought degree as his mentor-cum-father-figure, E.B. Jonathan, but it will probably be elevated as time goes on.

Perry Mason always wear jackets and hats when outside of his home

Style Breakdown: E.B. Jonathan

Let’s next cover the style of the character of E.B. Jonathan, as played by John Lithgow. As the lead criminal defense attorney in Los Angeles, E.B Jonathan is the most sumptuously and nattily dressed character on the entire show. He employs Perry Mason to do his detective work, and as we mentioned before, he acts as sort of a father figure to Mason. He’s often depicted as sitting behind his broad office desk or drinking whiskey in his gentleman’s club, seemingly oblivious to Prohibition.

He wears a completely new ensemble in almost every scene in which he’s featured, which speaks not only to his affluence but also to his position in society. He exclusively wears three-piece suits that feature soft patterns like stripes or overchecks. The material of these suits is quite heavy, so it will drape attractively. This is a key feature of 1930s suiting, which prized structure and shape.

E.B Jonathan is frequently seen in a completely new ensemble in almost every scene.

Like many of the characters on the show, he fully embraces all of the accessories that were common of 1930s dressing, such as collar clips, watch chains, Winchester shirts, and so on. His shirt collars are pointed but detachable, which is a holdover from the Victorian era. While they do have a more modern shape, they give him an aura of authority and suit his position and goals well. His Homburg hats and watch chains mark him out as a member of the older generation–whereas men of Perry’s generation are typically seen wearing things like fedoras and wristwatches. He also owns a shawl-collared silk bathrobe in a navy pattern which we think is supremely elegant. 

E.B Jonathan fully embraces all of the accessories that were common of the 1930s dressing

Style Breakdown: Pete Strickland

The style of Perry Mason’s investigative sidekick, Pete Strickland (as played by Shea Whigham) is more irreverent and playful, which seems appropriate for his wise-cracking, sailor-mouthed character. Pete typically acts like he’s resentful of authority or men with greater power and status than he has, so his clothing choices might be a deliberate way to illustrate that he’s not going to fall in line with typical definitions of authority.

Pete’s patterns are often bolder and combined together in the same outfit showing that he’s a bit more flashy, overall.

An example of this is that he, too, wears button-up shirts and ties, but often somewhat unbuttoned and loosely tied, to illustrate that he may be wearing them begrudgingly more than anything. He also wears a flat cap, possibly to communicate his lower-class status, although it may again be just to show that he doesn’t want to wear the hat styles that are common for men in higher stations. This is in contrast to Perry, who wears a scruffy fedora as a fallen member of the middle class. Pete’s patterns are often bolder and combined together in the same outfit, showing that he’s a bit more flashy, overall. For example, he’s got an overcoat in a small plaid pattern that is worn with wide, striped ties. And again like Perry, we do also see Pete wearing the same clothes repeatedly.

Pete Strickland’s clothing choices mark him as a member of the lower class.

Style Breakdown: Paul Drake

The style of Paul Drake (as portrayed by Chris Chalk) is up next. As a black police officer in the deeply racist and corrupt 1930s Los Angeles Police Department, Paul is frequently marginalized and threatened if he doesn’t do as he’s told by the other officers. Meanwhile, though, he also has one of the most interesting wardrobes on the show. He’s frequently depicted in his police uniform, which is structured and crisp in much the same way as a military uniform might be. It features epaulets, brass buttons, a belt, and a cross-chest strap. His wide-legged pants are neatly creased and break perfectly over his shoes. His uniform is worn with a crisp white shirt and a dark necktie.

Paul Drakes’s clothes are always are pressed, neat, well-fitted, and never stained or shabby.

He also has a couple of distinct ensembles when wearing civilian attire. Because of his line of work and his already marginalized status in society, he really doesn’t have the luxury of being sloppy and lazy with his clothing, like Pete and Perry do. One noteworthy garment is a belted, peacoat-length, double-breasted jacket that appears to be in a rusty brown color. When observed more closely, however, it can actually be seen to be a unique blend of yellow, black, and orange threads. It has wide, rounded lapels that extend almost to his shoulders.

Paul Drake’s overcoat is unique in style.

Paul also acts as a good example of the styling of 1930s button-up shirts. His shirts frequently feature small patterns and motifs, with long spear collars and narrow collar spreads. They also feature bold stripes in blue and white, for example. And he pairs these shirts with characteristically 1930s ties that are, again, short and boldly patterned. We think that his bold, crisp, and unique wardrobe speaks to his own personal pride and dignity, and he’s probably a character who will similarly evolve over the course of the show.

Other Noteworthy Outfits from The Show

1.  District Attorney Maynard Barnes – This character (played by Stephen Root) is occasionally seen, and is a fan of large bow ties.

District Attorney Maynard Barnes (Stephen Root) favors large bow ties.

2. Film Executive – In episode 1, he wears a navy, pinstripe suit with a long, pointed collar.

This film executive wears a spear-collared white shirt and navy suit.

3. Studio Owner – Also in episode 1, this character is depicted in White Tie.

Studio owner wearing a white tie, episode 1

4. Gambling Hall Owner – In episode 3, this character is seen wearing a dark shirt and an ivory jacket.

The owner of a gambling hall, in an ivory jacket, black shirt, and dark tie.

How Accurate are Perry Mason‘s 1930s Fashions?

So, as far as the costuming overall is concerned, the show has certainly leaned into getting the aesthetic of the 1930s down. With that said, though, they have made a few choices that are less than authentic. As we said before, we think that Perry’s leather jacket is an unusual choice for an everyday, around-town jacket (although there may be some unexplained, personal attachment to it for him). Also, it could be a visual shorthand to clearly differentiate him from the other characters. As we also mentioned before, medium-rise trousers weren’t really part of the 1930’s look, but Perry also wears them frequently. We don’t see many of the characters wear suspenders or braces, either. Certainly, E.B. Jonathan wears them underneath his suits and waistcoats, but for this time, we probably would’ve expected seeing other characters, like Pete and Perry, wear them as well. 

Perry (along with other characters) is frequently shown in mid-rise trousers.

How To Get The Look

With the style breakdown out of the way, let’s now discuss how to get the look of the Perry Mason series, if you’re so interested. You probably won’t be surprised to hear that we actually don’t recommend directly emulating the style of Perry Mason’s character, but there are still some things we can take from the show!

1. Leather Jacket

First, a leather jacket with a classic silhouette is something that is always going to be in style. It’s better to have a few tried-and-true, quality pieces in your wardrobe that you can wear multiple times, rather than having lots of things that you don’t like to wear.

Preston wearing his leather jacket

Granted, they shouldn’t necessarily be worn so often that they’re shabby, but if you maintain your clothing, wearing something that’s versatile and that can be paired with many different elements is always a safe bet.

2. Vintage Hats

Vintage hat styles like fedoras can flatter many faces, and they’re an easy way to add some vintage cool to your outfit. The wider the brim and the higher the crown of the hat, the more old-school it’s going to look. So, play around with different hat styles until you find one that suits you best.

Sven Raphael Schneider in a vintage Roeckl fedora

3. Collar Jewelry

The single easiest way to get a 1930s look to your outfits is to wear collar jewelry. Nearly every professional male character on the show does wear some form of collar jewelry. Some wear collar clips (like the prominent local businessman pictured below), others wear collar bars, and still others wear collar pins, such as E.B. Jonathan. Overall, it’s just a great look.

Herman Baggerly (Robert Patrick) sporting a gold collar clip.

4. Accessories

We love how the best-dressed characters on the show are generally keen on wearing accessories. They used far more of them than the average modern man would, but accessories like pocket squares, tie clips, tie chains, and cufflinks round out their outfits with additional style elements.

Nice pocket watch chain and lapis ring with a Prince-of-Wales check waistcoat and striped suit

5. Three-Piece Suit

Also, we do recommend that you give the three-piece suit a try. Nothing projects an air of confidence and authority in quite the same way as a three-piece suit does. It’s an elegant and professional look, and especially in the colder seasons, having the extra layer of fabric from the waistcoat can come in handy.

Raphael wearing a three-piece houndstooth suit [Tie: Knit Tie in Chartreuse Green Silk – Fort Belvedere]

6. Overcoat

Again, taking specific style inspiration from the character of Paul Drake, you should endeavor to find an overcoat style that fits you well. Finding something unique is probably easily achieved by buying vintage. If you do this, it will add a layer of complexity to an entire season’s worth of outfits.

Find an overcoat style that fits you well.

7. Patterned Shirts

Also, try different shirt patterns, like stripes, micro-patterns, and so on. Today’s shirt wardrobes are often dominated by plain whites and blues, but Paul’s character reminds us that there are a variety of shirt pattern options out there to experiment with.

Paul Drake in a patterned shirt

8. Wider-Legged Pants

If you’re tired of the current skinny trends or you just don’t have particularly thin legs, in either case, we’d suggest that you try experimenting with wider-legged pants. A well-cut pair of wider trousers that features a proper amount of break for your leg length will probably be more flattering to more men than the current trend for super-skinny styles.

This pair of gray trousers features wider legs than current styles, but is flattering for Sven Raphael Schneider’s build.

“Wider-legged” doesn’t necessarily have to mean “wide-legged,” of course! Just something that’s a bit more substantial than current fashions would dictate.

9. Medium-High to High-Rise Trousers

Finally, a medium-high or high rise on your trousers will also lengthen your leg line or diminish the appearance of an overly long torso, thus making you look built up or traditionally masculine overall.

Low, mid and high rise pants

Have you been watching the new Perry Mason series? What do you think of the styles depicted? Share your thoughts in the comments!

During the summer months, we turn to lighter and more comfortable fabrics–and in a similar fashion, our fragrance rotations should also feature light, fresh and comfortable summer scents. Today, we’ve rounded up 10 great colognes to wear during the warmer months, along with our customary scent analysis for each!

Many traditional fragrances for men, (such as those we’ve covered previously) are quite heavy and intense. These are not ideal for the summer months. So, what makes a cologne ideal for summer? As you might have guessed, it starts with the notes that make it up.

Popular Scent Notes for Summer Fragrances

Bergamot

There are many notes that define a summer scent — the first one being Bergamot. This comes from the Bergamot orange, a citrus fruit from whose rind essential oils are derived. This scent is described as a lightly floral, sweet orange peel. You might be familiar with this scent, as it is often used to flavor Earl Grey tea.

Bergamot Oranges

Neroli

Neroli is an essential oil gathered from the blossoms of a bitter orange tree. The blossoms are hand-picked and the oil is steamed and distilled. It’s spicy with sweet flowery notes which make it excellent for summer.

Neroli is derived from the bitter orange tree

Herbs

Many of the popular herbs used as notes in great summer scents include rosemary, coriander, patchouli, and mint. These green plants are highly aromatic and fresh, and provide lightness. 

Rosemary is among the popular herb used as notes in great summer scents

Citrus (and Other) Fruits

This will include lemon, pineapple, mandarin orange, and bitter orange. Citrus tends to be a top note in a fragrance. It’s bright in the beginning, but the scent will quickly fade.

Citrus & fruits include lemon, pineapple, mandarin orange, and bitter orange.

Florals

Last but not least, we have florals. Though floral scents aren’t usually considered “manly,” they can be layered with other scents to create more masculine aromas. Many popular floral notes include lavender, orange blossom, violet, jasmine, geranium, and rose. These scent profiles generally correlate with fragrances that are great for daytime wear. This means that these fragrances can easily transition into being fragrances that can be worn all year round.

Many popular floral notes include lavender, orange blossom, violet, jasmine, geranium, and rose.

Our Top 10 Summer Fragrances

1. Montblanc Individuel

This scent was created in 2003 and is a longtime favorite of both Raphael and Teresa. This brand isn’t necessarily known as being a cologne house, but this fragrance is great nonetheless. It’s an oriental, woody fragrance and it’s one of the heavier scents on this list. The wonderful thing is that it can be worn all year round, and although it’s usually listed for $75, it can often be found for as low as $35.

Montblanc Individuel

Top fragrance notes include pineapple, coriander, rosemary, cinnamon, lavender, juniper berries, mint, bergamot, and cardamom. Middle notes include orange blossom, violet, jasmine, and geranium. Base notes include sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, raspberry, vanilla, dark chocolate, oakmoss, and vetiver.

2. Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo

In particular, we’re looking at the Bergamotto di Calabria. This scent was launched in 2008, but its Italian parent company is over 100 years old. The Blu Mediterraneo is in a line of five scents; each bears the name of a destination within the Mediterranean, and the bottles themselves immediately speak to cool ocean breezes on the Italian coast. This smells light, fresh, and incredibly summery. The scent is restrained yet also quite elegant. You can often find this being sold for $120 for 74 milliliters. 

Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo

Top notes include bergamot and citron; heart notes include red ginger, cedar, and flowers; and base notes include vetiver, benzoin, and musk. 

3. Creed Aventus

You’ve probably already heard of Creed Aventus, as it’s one of the most popular fragrances that’s been released in the last decade. This scent was released in 2010, and it’s become one of the brand‘s best sellers. It is inspired by Emperor Napoleon’s dramatic life. Some reviewers have even claimed that Aventus is the best fragrance ever made! 

Creed Aventus

Interestingly, Aventus is made in batches, so each batch is subtly different from the last. That being said, it retails for $435 for 100 milliliters (making it the most expensive scent on this list). Top notes include black currant, bergamot, apple, and pineapple. Heart notes include rose, dry birch, jasmine, and patchouli. Base notes include oakmoss, musk, ambergris, and vanilla.

4. Tom Ford Neroli Portofino

If you search online for summery scents, it’s quite likely that you will come across Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino–and at $325 for 100 milliliters, we really wanted to see if it lived up to both the hype of the scent and the price tag! To us, it seems quite unique compared to other scents, but in a good way. Aventus, for example, is a bit more mainstream in its fragrance profile. This is a bit different; it comes in heavy on citrus, but ultimately becomes more well balanced with the herbs and floral scents.

Tom Ford Neroli Portofino

The scent is technically unisex, though we do find it still smells quite masculine (even though it doesn’t carry a lot of the more traditionally masculine scents, like woods). This scent would easily transition well into fall, because it’s also quite warm. Given the price, we highly recommend you start out with a sample first, but if you really love the fragrance profile, it will be a worthwhile investment. Top notes include bergamot, mandarin, orange, lemon, lavender, myrtle, rosemary, and bitter orange. Middle notes include African orange flower, jasmine, neroli, and pittosporum and base notes include amber, ambrette, and angelica.

5. Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme

This scent is one of the lightest that we tested in this lineup of fragrances. It’s great for men who are big fans of aquatic fragrances. This scent was launched in 2007, and it’s well known for its marketing campaigns. It typically sells at $75 for 75 milliliters.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme

Its top notes include Sicilian mandarin, juniper, grapefruit, and bergamot. Middle notes include rosemary, Brazilian rosewood, and pepper. Base notes include musk, oakmoss, and incense.

6. Floris London Bergamotto Di Positano

This is described as a “classic citrus marine fragrance” from this long-standing British perfume house. Like many summer fragrances, it was inspired by the Italian coastline and sea breezes, conjuring images that are ideal for summer. Bergamot oranges are grown in Calabria, so this scent combination does make sense. This fragrance was introduced in 2015. It is sold for $180 for 100 milliliters.

Floris London Bergamotto Di Positano

Top notes include bergamot, marine, and mandarin. Heart notes include green tea, orange blossom, ginger, and vanilla. Base notes include amber spice, ambrette, woods, and vanilla. 

7. Atelier Cologne Clementine California

This fragrance was launched in 2016 by its Paris-based perfume house, and is considered unisex. Top notes include mandarin orange, clementine, and juniper berry. Middle notes include basil, pepper, and star anise. Base notes include sandalwood, cypress, and Haitian vetiver.

Atelier Cologne Clementine California

8. Nishane Colognise Extrait de Cologne

Now, let’s take a look at Nishane Cologne. Nishane is a niche perfumery out of Turkey that was launched in 2013. This scent typically sells for $150 for 100 milliliters, but keep in mind it has a higher concentration of essence than many other fragrances on our list, so a little will go a long way. The fragrance is rooted in the tradition of Turkish baths offering a lemon cologne to guests.

Nishane Colognise Extrait de CologneThis is a lemon-based fragrance that is still complex and unique. Top notes include bergamot, lemon, green tea, and jasmine. Middle notes include grapefruit and Muguet. Base notes include vetiver, neroli, and musk.

9. Versace Man Eau Fraiche

You might be surprised to hear us mention the flashy Italian brand Versace here, but this fragrance matches the scent profile for a summer fragrance perfectly. The scent is described as fresh and aquatic; top notes include lemon, bergamot, rosewood, and rose. Middle notes include cedar, tarragon, sage, and pepper. Base notes include amber, musk, saffron, and woods.

Versace Man Eau Fraiche

10. Bulgari Aqua Pour Homme

This fragrance was launched in 2005 and already has quite a loyal following. It was a first in a line of similar scents from Bulgari, so if this one isn’t quite your speed, feel free to take a look at some of their other offerings, as well. This is another scent that’s fresh and aquatic but still quite masculine, due to the amber and woody notes. It is great for summer during the day, because it is also very light; however, it does lack some of the deeper, richer notes that would make it ideal to be worn in the evening.

Bulgari Aqua Pour Homme

This scent is distinctly salty and beachy, which is going to be great for some, while others might find it to be a little bit too intense; overall, this scent is actually known to be quite polarizing. It’s also got a unique rounded bottle that’s going to look great on your counter. Top notes include mandarin orange and petitgrain. Middle notes include Santolina lavender, cotton, and Posidonia seaweed. Base notes include mineral amber, woody notes, and clary sage.

Kyle’s Personal Favorites

1. Nishane Cologne

It’s a smooth and assertive scent that’s not too overpowering. It’s quite mature as well. The scent is very unique, and is able to be worn in the day or night.

Nishane is among Kyle’s favorite summer fragrances from this list

2. Atelier Cologne Clementine California

The strong clementine fragrance is phenomenal for summer, and I love how it commands attention. Try wearing the scent out with friends or with colleagues.

Bonus: Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling

In addition to these great summer scents, I’ve recently been enjoying Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling. It has truly become one of my personal newfound favorites. Juniper Sling is a light and spicy scent that was released in 2011. It is a part of Penhaligon’s “Signature Collection.” This scent retails for around $200 for 100 milliliters.

Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling

Top notes include angelica, cinnamon, orange, and juniper berries. Middle notes include cardamom, orris root, leather, and pepper. Base notes include vetiver, cherry, sugar, and amber.

Conclusion

Any of these choices are fantastic for summer, and incorporating any of them into your morning routine will serve you well!

What are your favorite summer scents, and what do you love about them? Share with us in the comments!

While Hermes ties are known for their vibrant colors and printed patterns, the Hermes belt is even a bolder statement because of the big “H” buckle. It is an instantly recognizable product with retail prices of $800 and more – it has become a very popular status symbol. But is it worth the price tag?

In the world of luxury brands, Hermès is certainly an iconic one, with prices to match. For men, they’re famous for their neckties, which can be seen on Wall Street bankers and Russian Oligarchs alike. In this installment of our ongoing review series Is It Worth It?, we examine the Hermes “H” belt and see if it’s worth your hard-earned money. If you Google the term Hermes belt, one of the first questions that will pop up is, “Are Hermes belts tacky?” So today, we’ll look at not only at the quality of materials and the workmanship, but also how it can be incorporated stylistically into an outfit–and we’ll discuss if it’s tacky or not. (By the way, it’s pronounced ehr-MEZ, not HER-mees, Her-MIS, or anything else.)

A Brief History of Hermès

Hermes was founded in 1837 by the German-born Thierry Hermes. At first, he was a maker of harnesses and bridles for the carriage trade. That also explains why Hermes has had a carriage in their logo since 1950. Over the years the company became well known for their saddles, with customers including Russian czars. In 1880, the family moved the Hermes shop to the world-famous 24 Rue u Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. If you want to, you can visit the shop there today. You can even find zipper jackets just like the ones they first introduced in the 1900s. In fact, they made a golf jacket for Edward, the Prince of Wales at the time, and it was a complete novelty.

In 1880, the family moved the shop to 24 Rue u Faubourg Saint-Honoré

In the first half of the 20th century, Hermes had a great array of clothing, accessories, watches, handbags, (including the famous Kelly and Birkin bag styles) and fragrances. Despite those lineup extensions, by 1970, Hermes’ popularity was declining, and many attributed to the fact that they still heavily relied on natural materials. The decline continued slowly until 1978, when fifth-generation Jean-Louis Dumas took over as artistic director and chairman. Under his watch, the company focused heavily on leather goods, as well as silk products.

Ever since then, Hermes hasn’t just increased their sales, but also established their brand as the leader in luxury. Today, it’s considered to be the 33rd most valuable brand in the world. In 2019, about 30% of those sales came from leather goods; among them, the famous Hermes H belt. So is it worth it? Read on to find out.

Hermes introduced a wide array of products before focusing on leather and silk products in 1978

A Closer Look At The Hermès “H” Belt: Price

First of all, we have to look at the price. On their website, you have to spend $790 at a minimum to get the belt, but you can easily spend up to several thousand dollars depending on the leather that you’ll choose. Interestingly, you can only buy a buckle and a belt together, but when I purchased it online, the order confirmation broke out the buckles and the belts individually. The buckles are priced at $355; the belts (or “straps” as they call them) started at $425 and I got some others for $455.

Even though that might seem like a lot, compared to the genuine crocodile strap $4,900, these almost seem cheap! For this review, I bought three classic H belts in different leather color combinations, in the sizes 95, 100, and 105 (which stands for centimeters). If you want to get the size in inches, just divide these numbers by 2.54.

The buckles are priced at $355; the belts start at $425.

Size-wise, I suggest you measure around your waist; when I did that I came up with different measurements, because the body is flexible, and so I decided to get three sizes. I’m glad I did because the only belt that fit was the smallest one. If I hadn’t done that, I probably would’ve ended up with a 100-centimeter belt, which would’ve been too big. Of course, if you’re at the store you can figure out the right sizing right then and there.

One thing I really like about the Hermes product is that it’s a modular belt system. In other words, the buckles work with different belts (as long as you get the belts in one width). Here, I bought a belt in a 32mm width (about 1.25 inches), but they also have 38mm width (about 1.5 inches). On top of that, the belts are reversible, meaning with 3 buckles and 3 reversible belts, I should be able to get 18 different combinations. Unfortunately, one color is black twice, so that reduces it to about 15 different combinations. Still not bad!

Measure around your waist and get the size that is closest. Raphael chose the smallest because the other ones would be too big for him.

A Note on Modular Belt Systems

Even though the price of a modular belt system is generally higher, you’ll really get a lot more flexibility. If you think about the cost-per-buckle-and-belt-combination, it’s a lot less than regular belts. This is the primary reason why I designed the Fort Belvedere belt system to be modular, so you can mix different colored belts with different buckles and get the look you want; that’s particularly handy when you travel. So, rather than traveling with five to six different belts, you can maybe just bring 2 straps which are reversible and 2 buckles, and you should be all set. 

Fort Belvedere Belt System

Configurations & Materials

In terms of configurations, you have many possible options. There are lots of different belts, colors, and leather textures, and you’ll find all kinds of H buckles in colors such as gold and silver. Example buckle styles include the Constance buckle (which has a serif just on the outside) or the classic H buckle (which has a serif on the outside and inside of the vertical H strokes).

Buckle Metals

In terms of metal, Hermes doesn’t share a lot of information on their website; most listings say that the buckles are “permabrass.” To me, it looks like a brass buckle that is then gold-plated or platinum-plated which is exactly what we do at Fort Belvedere as well, because it’s a great combination of solid materials that will age well (depending on the thickness of the plating). That being said, I find it quite disappointing that a belt that sells for so much money doesn’t tell me what the materials are really made of beyond just “calf leather” or “crocodile leather.” For a product in this category, I’d really expect more information.

Hermes doesn’t share a lot of information in terms of metal on their website; the most a listing say is that it’s a permabrass

Even though you can’t find them on their website today, Hermes used to sell solid 18-karat or 750 gold buckles; you can still find them sometimes on places like 1stdibs, but expect to pay more than $20,000 for just a buckle without the belt. Not many people know about this, and I have a friend who years ago bought an Hermes H belt on eBay that was just advertised as a “silver buckle with a belt.” When it arrived it was actually the 750 18-karat white gold buckle, and he was able to sell it for several thousand dollars and made a good profit!

You can still find vintage gold buckles online, but expect to pay more than $20,000 for just a buckle without the belt.

Leather

In terms of leather, Hermes typically uses differently textured leather and different colors on the front and the backside of the belt. In general, they appear to be chrome-tanned. All of the leathers I’ve seen from Hermes are of outstanding, top-notch quality. This includes the unique textures added to the belts, and it seems to me that the reason they do this is to make it much more difficult for people to fake the belt (because as an expensive status symbol, H belts from Hermes are frequently faked).

The leather has a firm touch, and it definitely appears to be pigmented and coated to get that exact texture that they want. In terms of softness, I would say it’s between a medium stiffness and soft. For belts, I typically prefer a slightly stiffer leather, because over time it will soften up automatically, and if it was too soft to begin with, it would just get out of shape rather quickly.

Hermes’ belt leather has a firm touch

Closely examining a belt’s holes, you can see if the leather was semi-aniline or aniline-dyed. For example, the cognac brown leather is aniline-dyed all the way through. The black leather, on the other hand, has a white leather colored underside and a dark black coating on top. On their reddish and medium brown combination belt, both of them are aniline-dyed but then have a pigment coated top. The signature orange Hermes belt has leather that is aniline-dyed with a top coating of color, and the black leather is, again, white on the underside and just black on top.

While it seems that the belts are relatively thin and that they just consist of two layers of leather, looking through the holes, you can tell that there is a third lining leather in the middle. As their belts are reversible, having a texture is actually a good idea, because the leather on the inside will always be creased. If you have a pre-embossed pattern, it will crease along those lines and it won’t age as quickly.

The black leather has a white leather colored underside and a dark black coating on top.

Hermès Belt Construction & Workmanship

In terms of construction, the Hermes belts are crafted with a high quality of detail and precision. For example, the stitch density is very consistent; it ends right in the corners and the distance to the edge is always the same. Unlike their watch straps, these belts are sewn by machine. If you Google for Hermes watch straps, you’ll find tons of videos showing you how they are sewn by hand. For the belts, they’re all machine-made, and not made by hand.

Traditionally, a hand-made belt would be welted by a saddle stitch (the same stitch used on the sole of a bespoke shoe), using one thread with needles at both ends. On the other hand, with a machine, you actually have two threads. While they’re technically not quite as stable, modern machine technology has advanced a lot and it’s a good stable seam or welt. Of course, a belt is also longer than a watch strap or a shoe sole, and because of that, the thread would have to be really long, and making it by hand would be quite tricky.

Traditionally, a hand-made belt would be welted by a saddle stitch which is the exact same stitch that you use when you sew on.

That being said, 99% of belts today are machine-stitched, and not hand-stitched. At the same time, with a price tag of $790 -$825 and up, you can definitely get a saddle-stitched, hand-welted belt. In general, the workmanship and the craftsmanship of Hermes products are all very neat; the holes are exactly in the center, and they’re spaced apart with the exact same distance. The edges of the belt are cut and then burnished, which is a process of using a hot iron and wax and rolling on it multiple times until the edge has a smooth finish that looks pleasant to the eye. This is the way most belts are finished.

The holes on Hermes’ belts are exactly in the center. They’re spaced apart with the exact same distance.

A Note on Skiving

A higher-end way to finish off edges is to start with a wider piece of leather and thin down the edges of the inside (also known as skiving), and then fold over the edges and sew everything together. That means the top and bottom edge of your belt actually has full outside leather and no cut edge that’s visible. In my opinion, that doesn’t just look nicer, but it is also a higher level of craftsmanship which takes more time, more materials, and is typically more expensive–and that’s the reason we do that with our Fort Belvedere belts.

A skived and sewn edge is a hallmark of a higher-quality belt.

Unlike the paints and the wax used during burnishing, which may come off with a lot of movement over the course of a few years, the edges on our leather belts will always remain intact because they are in fact, leather and not just wax and paint.

Belt Sizing

In terms of sizing, each belt has one hole at one end and three at the other, so you can adjust your belt a little bit. Sometimes people also punch in extra holes, but bear in mind that people may think that it’s a fake if ever you try to sell it again. You can get the belts in 9 sizes (in 5cm increments), 80 centimeters to 120 centimeters. This covers waist sizes to 31” to 48”. As mentioned earlier, I chose the middle size but in fact, only the small size fits. When in doubt, I always size a number down. The way you’re supposed to measure is to take the distance around your waist where you wear the belt; if it says 100, then you would be a size 100 (or in my case, 95). Keep in mind that I’m already on the tightest adjustment hole, so I couldn’t make it any tighter.

You can get the belts in 9 sizes in 5cm increments, 80 centimeters to 120 centimeters.

Belt Manufacturing & Packaging

Unlike with other manufacturers which often outsource production, Hermes produces all their leather goods in France, which is a relatively high-cost country. If they own manufacturing facilities, that keeps high manufacturing standards.

In terms of packaging, there’s no doubt that Hermes provides a premium experience. Their signature orange boxes have finely framed edges in dark brown–not black, because black is often what fake boxes will use. The logos are all neat, inside you have neatly folded white tissue paper without any Hermes logos, and you’ll find two little cotton bags, one for your buckle and one for your belt. Of course, the rectangular orange box arrives with the signature brown Hermes ribbon. As a gift, these make a beautiful statement long before you open the box.

Hermes provides a premium experience in terms of packaging.

You noticed we’ve talked quite a bit about the leather; this is because we could judge its quality from the greater amount of information provided. Meanwhile, there really isn’t any information on their website about the buckles. Like I said, I think they’re brass, and they’re nicely made. There are no rough edges and they are beautifully polished. The version with a front that has a brushed look also has polished edges, and the backs of their buckles always have a sort of matte finish which is very consistent. This shows they have attention to detail.

An example of the “H” buckle in a gold finish.

Hermès vs. Other Belt Systems

If we compare just the pricing, Hermes is always a lot more expensive. For example, from Duret Paris you can get a bespoke belt for $1,400, which is hand-stitched; you can have folded edges, you can have anything you want. The same belt at Hermes costs $4900. Of course, Duret is Duret and Hermes is Hermes, so if the status symbol is important to you, then a small manufacturer or a craftsman can’t give you that. That being said, the custom belt comes in one size, and while you may be able to make it reversible, it doesn’t have the whole system that Hermes offers you.

You can get a bespoke belt from Duret Paris for $1,400, considerably less expensive than Hermes

If you want to have more of an apples-to-apples comparison in terms of belt systems, maybe you could look at one from Fort Belvedere, or there’s also Montblanc; you can get high-quality calf belts, high-quality buckles that are interchangeable and sometimes reversible. The belts from Montblanc and Fort Belvedere are also stitched by machine. The Montblanc belts have a cut-and-burnished edge which is less expensive to produce, while the Fort Belvedere belts have a folded edge which is more expensive but also more beautiful and durable.

Obviously, you don’t get the H buckle with either the Montblanc or the Fort Belvedere belt system, but you get other classic buckles that are very attractive. I have no idea where Montblanc sources their leather, but it seems to be of high quality. At Fort Belvedere, we source our leather from the same tannery as Hermes does for their belts.

Montblanc‘s belts are burnished and have a cut edge

The three calf leather belts I bought from Hermes cost $2,440 which is about $813.33 per belt. At Fort Belvedere, if you buy one belt and one buckle together it costs $240; if you buy 3 of them their costs go down to $210 per belt with a buckle. That’s a huge price difference of 70%! If you take into consideration the volume discounts, it’s even a 75% discount for the Fort Belvedere system.

Yes, even at Fort Belvedere you get a nice gift packaging but obviously, Fort Belvedere doesn’t have the cachet of Hermes. At the Gentleman’s Gazette and Fort Belvedere, we’re all about high-quality products and a high level of craftsmanship. We’re not status symbols; we just make products for people who value good stuff and if that’s what you want, you’ll get a phenomenal price. If you want a status symbol from a famous brand, in very recognizable packaging, then Hermes is definitely the way to go–but be prepared to pay a lot of money for that.

Fort Belvedere belt packaging

Are Hermès Belts Overpriced?

In a word: yes, I think they are. But at the same time, when you buy their stuff, you end up with a quality product and not just garbage like with other brands (the sorry state of the Louis Vuitton duffel bags come to mind). If you look at it more from a numbers perspective: for $800 you can get a beautiful custom belt made with all the bells and whistles with high quality, but it’s not a modular system.

If you want to remain at roughly the same level of quality in terms of leather and workmanship and the flexibility of a modular belt system, then rationally, going with a Fort Belvedere belt will be a lot less expensive. Even a Montblanc system would be a lot less expensive even though it’s a lot more recognizable of a brand. Of course, some people just enjoy wearing quality products and they don’t wish to advertise any particular brand. This is why at Fort Belvedere, we don’t have logos in visible positions on our belts, because that would be tacky.

For $800, you can get a beautiful custom belt made–but it’s not a modular system.

How Do Hermès “H” Buckles Make You Look?

When you wear a boldly colored belt with an H buckle from Hermes, you signal to others that you want to make a bold statement, that you are rich, and that you can afford to buy this thing which is the definition of a status symbol. The problem is, literally and figuratively, it makes you the center of attention in a kind of show-off way. So, even if you assemble an otherwise perfectly elegant or dapper-looking outfit, the belt will overshadow anything and it will just say, “I’m rich. I can afford this. I have the Hermes status. I am a VIP,” And that’s assuming people aren’t just thinking you as a douchebag or a show-off.

Even if you assemble an otherwise perfectly elegant or dapper-looking outfit, the belt will overshadow everything.

Also, they’re quite noticeable, flashy, and reflective, and they actually draw the other person’s look down towards the crotch area and away from your face. However, you obviously want people to look into your eyes and not down there. By the way, that’s also the same reason why you shouldn’t wear ties that are too long, because they have that same effect. Personally, an Hermes belt feels like a huge waste of personal style, I’d rather be recognized for my sense of style or my humor than the fact that I can afford expensive items. After all, I could find other items of the same quality for a lot less.

A Word on Counterfeit Hermès Belts

It’s technically not that difficult to fake a belt and buckle, even though Hermes does a great job of paying attention to detail. From afar, a fake $40 Hermes belt looks pretty much like the original, but some people may think of you as someone who wears fakes and is trying to impress them. Because of the high risk of fake products on the market, we recommend you only buy from an authorized Hermes dealer, or at least a dealer who specializes in those kinds of products and has a reputation to lose if they sell you something fake. Also, keep in mind that the belts and the buckles are separate, so you might wind up with an authentic buckle and a fake strap, or vice versa. 

Only buy from an authorized Hermes dealer!

How Can You Spot A Fake Hermès Belt?

1. Leather

First of all, a genuine Hermes belt is always made out of two different leathers, with a color and a texture on the front side and the backside, and it is lined with a third leather which you can see when you look at the holes.

2. Stitch Work

Those leather pieces are neatly stitched together by machines, the stitches are at the ends, the stitch density is the same, and it doesn’t vary between the edges. They may have tone-in-tone or contrast stitching, sometimes varying between sides.

Pay attention to the leather and the stitch work.

3. Texture

Hermes belts feature a nice distinct texture on their leathers; if that’s missing, if it’s just flat, it’s likely a fake. To learn more about different leathers and the textures that Hermes uses, check out their website or even better, go to their store.

4. Hole Measurements

As mentioned before you’ll have one hole on one side and three on the other, 5 centimeters (about two inches) apart. If there are more holes, whether they’re all the same or they’re slightly crooked, it’s definitely a fake.

Pay attention to the texture and hole measurements.

5. Buckle & Belt Details

While fake buckles may look exactly like the original, if you turn them around and look at the texture in the back, all Hermes buckles have a powder-coated, smooth, matte finish. It’s not brushed like stainless steel, but uniform and consistent. Also on the back of the buckle, you’ll find one loop and one pin that goes through both holes of the belt. On the backside of the buckle in the past, you’d find a little Hermes print, embossing, or sometimes a little symbol next to it. On the more modern buckles, you’ll find a -Hermes- sign laser-engraved very finely onto the buckle, as well as alphanumeric codes and Made in France in the back.

The reverse of a modern Hermes buckle.

On the strap itself, on one end, you should find a neatly embossed HERMÈS on one line, then PARIS, then MADE IN FRANCE. You will also find the size embossed (in my case 105, 100, or 95), followed by a letter. C stands for manufacturing date or year. Newer belts also have an alphanumeric code that indicates what type of leather was used. For example, looking at these 3 belts, it seems like F denotes black leather. Fakes often get the font, size, or letter case wrong, so always look very closely at how it’s written. If it’s not neat, then chances are, it’s not from Hermes.

The detailed embossing on the leather strap of an Hermes belt.

Conclusion: Is The Hermès “H” Belt Worth It?

I’d say yes, but only for a person who is interested in a status symbol that shows they can afford a very expensive product. You also have to be open to spending $800 on a belt, and the only good thing about that is you can sell them in a secondary market for relatively high prices if you can convince people that it is in fact, the real product. So, keep your receipt and that would make life a lot easier!

Is the Hermes “H” Belt worth it? We say yes, only for a person who is interested in a status symbol that shows they can afford a very expensive product.

Again, if you’re interested in buying it, buy directly from Hermes–or if you care for a modular belt system of high-quality leather material, I offer you to take a look at our Fort Belvedere system. We’ll add more buckles and leathers on an ongoing basis, so eventually, you’ll have a truly robust system that might be comparable to what you get at Hermes. Of course, never with the same cachet, but on a workmanship level and quality level, you’ll definitely get something that is worth its money.

What’s your opinion of Hermès’ “H” belts? Would you wear them? Share with us in the comments!

Since the 1960s, more and more men have been interested in a more casual alternative to formal suits for everyday outfits. It all started in Hawaii with Aloha Friday where people would wear Hawaiian shirts to the office. Later, it was adopted by many other men and it became Casual Fridays, which was of course more office appropriate and led into the entire category of the business casual dress code.

From there, it caught on to more workplaces and it became more popular over the decades. Of course, men interested in dressing up have now created the opposite which is called Formal Friday but that’ll be the subject of another post. 

The Business Casual Dress Code

In a nutshell, it means no suits but also no jeans. Even though a business casual dress code doesn’t include slippers, flip-flops or a t-shirt, it is definitely more on the casual side of things. To balance it, it incorporates somewhat formal features into the wardrobe. Ultimately, how formal or informal business casual actually largely depends on the company and their culture and what people wear there.

At an IT startup, the business casual dress code will be interpreted very differently than at a traditional law firm. Generally, it’s always better to be slightly overdressed than under-dressed and you have to be comfortable in the outfit you’re wearing.

Compared to formalwear, the business casual dress code can include many garments, and as such, can result in more combinations.

So, why should you opt for a business casual capsule wardrobe?

When it comes to formal wear, things are limited; for business casual outfits, there’s a much larger range. Of course, in the flip side, that means by owning a lot of different garments, it may be harder to choose what you’re actually gonna wear.

If you feel overwhelmed or you can’t decide on what to wear, a business casual capsule wardrobe can really help you find those few versatile pieces that you can basically wear with anything else so you don’t have to think a lot about it but you always look well put together. On top of that, having to buy fewer garments means you actually save more money, you have a much smaller wardrobe which means less closet space, and each item becomes more significant.

Some outfit ideas Raphael is wearing to get you started and think about your capsule wardrobe

Building A Lean Business Casual Wardrobe

When going to work five days a week, you don’t want to appear like you’re wearing the same clothes over and over again in the same combinations. However, if you have a few core pieces that you can use to build a wardrobe around, you’ll always look like you wear different outfits when in fact you’re only changing a few things.

A key element of a capsule wardrobe is to stick with earthy tones and dark solids and then to pair them with pastel colors, not bold strong hues because that way you’re just much more flexible in what you combine with what. Also, those bold hues really stand out and people will remember the guy who always wears the orange shirt to work.

A sustainable, capsule-style wardrobe

How Many Pieces Should You Have?

While a full capsule wardrobe typically starts about 37 pieces; if you just focus on business casual, you can have fewer than that. 

1. Jackets (Up to 5 pieces)

Blazers

First of all, there’s the jacket, sport coat, or the blazer. Again, it depends entirely on your office if jackets are encouraged, then it pays to have a few more, maybe up to five; if you rarely get a chance to wear them, just invest in one navy blazer. If you’re curious as to what off-the-rack placer is worth its money in the sub $500 category, check out this video.

So, why is the navy blazer such a foundational piece? Well, it is very easy to pair with other things and it’s a very classic garment. By adding contrasting buttons, traditionally in gold or maybe in mother of pearl, you create a certain sense of casualness without going all the way to the bottom of the spectrum. While many blazers come with matching dark buttons, something that’s contrasting helps you avoid looking like you’re wearing an orphaned suit jacket.

While a single-breasted blazer is the gold standard, you can also go with a double-breasted one which makes you look a bit more powerful. Of course, there are hundreds of different shades of navy, from our classic look go with something darker, you can also go with something a little lighter but always make sure you stick with an overall navy feel and look. 

Sport Coat

Once you have the blazer, adding sport coats is another essential part of a business casual capsule wardrobe. Subtle patterns such as a little check, maybe a glen check, a Prince of Wales check or maybe a houndstooth, are a welcome addition that just make everything a bit more casual and relaxed.

Raphael wearing a Gagliardi Glen check Sportcoat with Knit Tie in Solid Red Silk, White Spray Rose Boutonniere and Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere

Subdued colors are king for summer, it could be something maybe in white and blue. For winter, it could be something in dark brown and beige. If you want to be a bit more daring, subtle colors and shades of green or in fresco fabrics maybe something you can wear too. In the winter, maybe a tweed jacket in a light herringbone and some form of brown is a great companion.

If business casual is what you wear all day every day to the office, I suggest to get at least one navy blazer and four sport coats that way, you can give them a rest after a long day, the garments will last you longer and it won’t look like you’re always wearing the same thing.

2. Shirts (Up to 20 pieces)

Ideally, you want at least a two week rotation which means 10 shirts but 15 or 20 shirts are probably better. As you might notice, I’m a clotheshorse and I somewhat struggle with a capsule wardrobe. So for me, more is better. So, if you’re taking the capsule seriously, maybe just start with a two-week rotation.

A few of Sven Raphael’s blue dress shirts

I would add only button-down shirts with a collar. you can start with things like an oxford cloth button down, for example or you could have pastel colors in light blue, maybe something off-white or eggshell, you can also have subtle stripes or checks, but if you want to learn more about the first shirts that you should add to your wardrobe, please check out our guide here.

No matter how many shirts you have, either wear with a necktie, and if that’s too formal for the office, then skip that and just unbutton the top button. Never leave it buttoned without any form of neckwear because it makes you look like an altar boy at a wedding.

In more laid back offices, polo shirts may also be an option in colors like navy, white, maroon, green, or maybe brown. Remember, the keys that the colors are neutral and that they go with many other things. Skip the rugby shirts and the bright orange polo shirts. Your shirts should always be tucked in and not untucked which brings us to the next item, trousers or pants.

Neutrals are great–blue, white, navy, maroon, green

3. Trousers (Up to 6 pieces)

At the minimum, you should have three trousers. I think in a more practical world, you need at least six. One of them should be a pair of dress pants that could be in grey, charcoal, or navy. I think for maximum flexibility, something in a medium gray is probably best. If you can get another one and you live in a climate where it gets a bit colder, a pair of gray flannels are always great and pair well with a lot of things. They don’t have to be solids, that can be small pinpoints or maybe even a very subtle houndstooth. Whether pleated or not is entirely up to you.

Of course, the quintessential pants for a business casual look are khakis or chinos. The classic colors are khaki or beige but you can also get them in slightly different colors.

For the colder months of the year, a pair of corduroy trousers can be the perfect companion as they’re warmer because of the thickness yet the whole look and feel are much more casual than let’s say a pair of dress pants. Again, earthy colors, and browns, tans, and greens are your best friends here.

Classic, neutral colors like khaki, sand, beige best for the business casual environment

4. Vest, Cardigans, & Sweaters (Up to 4 pieces)

For the cooler months of the year, having vests or cardigans or any sweaters can be a great addition to a business casual capsule wardrobe. Ideally, knitted one in colors such as gray or beige that are contrasting with your jackets are perfect because that way you can wear them with or without a jacket.

If you want to skip the jacket and just go with knitwear, I suggest a cardigan is great because you can take it on and off very easily without messing up your hair. If you go for a sweater and you wear ties, definitely go with a v-neck otherwise, a crew neck may be an option for you. We always suggest to wear a cardigan or a sweater over a dress shirt with the exception of a turtleneck sweater which in itself can look really dapper with just a navy blazer for example, or a sport coat.

Overall, having about two vests and two sweaters or cardigans is a good number for a capsule wardrobe. 

Vests help to change the look of your existing wardrobe

5. Outerwear (At least 3 pieces)

In terms of outerwear, it really depends on where you live. I’d say in general, about three pieces of outerwear are a minimum standard and in cold areas, you can maybe wear a peacoat which is a shorter overcoat.

A trench coat is probably something that’s great wherever you go because it can be worn in the transitioning seasons such as spring or fall, when it’s rainy, it’s a very classic garment. It also comes traditionally in a beige or khaki tone which is more casual than let’s say a navy dark overcoat. 

6. Footwear (At least 3 pairs of shoes & 2 pairs of boots)

No business casual wardrobe is complete without footwear. At least three pairs of shoes and two pairs of boots can be enough. For business casual, I suggest you get a pair of brown shoes, ideally, a Derby or an oxford. It can be a suede leather but you want something that’s a little more casual and black cap toe oxford is not the right shoe for this occasion. Having a slightly different shoe such as a monk strap shoe or a loafer is also a great idea.

Personally, my favorite shoe color is burgundy because it’s dark enough to be worn with something a little more formal but casual enough to be worn with jeans and it always works well. In my book, you should have at least one oxford, one Derby, and one loafer. If you’re in a very casual environment, maybe boat shoes or leather sneakers may be acceptable too but that’s just not my kind of style.

Brown derbies or oxfords are the best bet while chukka, Chelsea should be the first 2 boots in your wardrobe.

In terms of boots, I think a suede chukka boot in brown and then maybe a chelsea boot in a darker color such as dark brown is a really great investment. If you’re more gravitating towards the formal side, a pair of balmoral boots maybe with a suede insert in a slightly contrasting color can be really cool, otherwise, a pair of jodhpur boots can be really interesting because even though they have a buckle that’s usually covered by your pants and it makes for a very sleek looking boot.

7. Accessories (As many as you like)

Once you have all your foundational pieces, it’s time for the accessories and best of all, they don’t count in numbers so you can have more of them. Personally, I love to play around with different accessories because with comparatively a very small amount of money, you can create outfits that look very different and provide a very handsome feel. So, people will look at you and think of an entirely new outfit but in fact you haven’t changed anything about the foundations of your wardrobe.

Neckties

For some people accessorizing does not include ties. In my book, it definitely does include ties. Of course, rather than going with traditional threefold silk jacquard woven ties, you can spice it up a little bit.

Changeant silk knitted ties from Fort Belvedere

That means adding more texture and in my mind, knit ties are the ideal companion. If you want a little less texture, a grenadine tie can also be great.  Alternatively, you can go with a silk but something like a shantung silk stripe such as this tie here or maybe a wool tie. They all add texture and visual interest, all the while keeping it rather casual.

In terms of colors, you want to pick something that is contrasting and if you have a solid navy blazer, maybe you get a mottled yarn tie such as a knitted one, and you could also pair it with a slightly patterned tie to just make it visually interesting on a different scale.

Bow Ties

If you’re not shying away from bolder statements, you can also wear bow ties but rest assured people will likely remember you as the bow tie guy. That being said, when I just started out with classic menswear, I wasn’t comfortable wearing bow ties but today, I really enjoy wearing them. If you still feel awkward about wearing bow ties yourself, check out our guide on How to Pull Off A Bow Tie to help you overcome that fear.

Green jacket with Shantung Silk Striped Two Tone Bow Tie Bronze Orange, Green, Cream – Fort Belvedere

Pocket Squares

Even if you don’t like wearing bow ties or ties, adding a pocket square to your outfit instantly elevates your look. For business casual looks, I suggest you get something with a nice pattern either in silk or wool patterns that are printed or you could get solid linen pocket squares with contrasting cross stitches on the edge; it just makes everything a little more fresh and not so stuffy and old school looking.

Wool Challis Pocket Square in Navy with White Polka Dots – Fort Belvedere

Boutonnieres

While that may not be for everyone. I found that wearing a boutonniere really gets you some attention in a subtle way and compliments or guarantee.

Orange Poppy Boutonniere with linen wool pocket all by Fort Belvedere

Shoelaces

If you have a very limited number of shoes, adding a pair of colorful shoelaces can change the look of the entire shoe without breaking the bank.

Brown derbies with orange shoelaces by Fort Belvedere

Socks

With a business casual dress code, socks are not optional so ideally for an office, they should always be over the calf because people don’t want to see your hairy legs.

Over the calf Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Navy Blue & Red Fil d’Ecosse Cotton – Fort Belvedere

Bags

When it comes to bags, I know backpacks are popular but they really make you look more like a schoolboy rather than a grown man. Having a nice brown leather briefcase or bag is really the way to go.

Definitely no backpacks

Business Casual Capsule Wardrobe Outfit Ideas

To put all theory to practice, we put together a little business casual capsule wardrobe and what that could look like for you.

Outfit #1

First, we have a charcoal gray flannel jacket paired with a checked cotton shirt in shades of white and blue. Then, a pair of khaki cotton chinos and brown whole cut oxfords. It’s all tied together with a brown grenadine tie from Fort Belvedere and a brown patterned silk pocket square likewise from Fort Belvedere, has tones of brown and blue that’s tying everything together. For my socks, I went with something in navy and royal blue striped by Fort Belvedere and they provide a nice contrast between the khaki chinos and the brown shoes. 

In this ensemble, the jacket and shoes are more formal, the shirt and trousers are more casual which leads to a happy medium. The accessories can all work with a variety of formalities and the colors of the outfits which are mostly neutral provide a certain element of harmony.

Switch up your jacket

Let’s say you don’t have a gray flannel jacket, you could also have a more casual one like a tweed jacket. Here, I have one in a green and burgundy tone, it has a very nice herringbone pattern and I’m adding a light blue paisley silk pocket square which picks up the color of the shirt. I could combine it with a pair of brown penny loafers or maybe even a pair of olive green shoes, picking up the color of the jacket. 

Also, you could wear a brown model donegal tweed jacket and I again would switch up the pocket square; here I have something that is purple with orange and green, it’s a wool-silk pocket square from Fort Belvedere.

If you don’t have tweed you can wear any type of sport coat. For example, here it’s a brown sport coat in worsted wool with a red windowpane over plaid and a handcrafted linen pocket square and pale red, it has some nice contrast edge stitching, it picks up the red color of the check and the white of the shirt. Of course, you could also wear brown penny loafers for example or maybe a pair of cognac colored monk strap shoes.

Outfit # 2

A somewhat different outfit is this brown and mustard yellow prince of wales check sport coat in a nice soft cashmere. I’m pairing it with a light blue cotton flannel dress shirt and cuffed navy dress pants or slacks with pleats.

I’m combining it with a pair of brown Norwegian split toe shoes and a yellow silk knit tie from Fort Belvedere. The yellow picks up the other yellow tones in the outfit and ties it all together but it also provides enough contrast on the shirt. Again, to make it all uniform, I’m pairing it with a pale yellow linen pocket square. The socks are navy and yellow stripes so I picked up the yellow but also work with the navy pants and provide enough contrast with the shoes.

If you look at this outfit, it’s very different than the first one because here, the jacket and the shoes are more casual and the trousers and the shirt are a bit more formal. The accessories here are more casual than in the previous example but they are still versatile and harmonious in color.

Swap the jacket

Of course, you may not always want to wear a jacket so you can also wear sweaters. For example, here I’m wearing a pastel blue oxford cloth button-down shirt with a white v-neck tennis sweater and blue accents which is very preppy and I like to wear it. I’m pairing it with black corduroys. For footwear here, I choose black balmoral boots with a suede insert and even though they’re the same color, they appear different to the eye because the suede reflects light differently.

Whenever I have sweaters, I prefer v-necks because they allow me to wear a tie which looks very handsome and makes people look into my face. Here, I have a red and white houndstooth tie and a silk bourette which is a very coarse weave and underlines the casualness of the ensemble.

I can also wear it with a paletot overcoat and a nice scarf or maybe a boutonniere and you could never tell that I have a rather casual outfit underneath of it.

Keep in mind, these are just a few outfit ideas that are supposed to get you started and think about your capsule wardrobe in a way that you can take certain pieces, change them up and they look very very different even though there are just maybe two items in your entire outfit that have changed.

Conclusion

Style is manifold and you can work with whatever you have in your wardrobe. Just experiment and it’s important to start and sooner or later you’ll find some favorites.

Raphael wearing a business casual outfit that could be together for a capsule wardrobe.

Whether you’re having a conversation with a salesperson in a store, making a post on an online menswear forum, or just wanting to know the details about a product you’re purchasing online, knowing specific menswear terminology will definitely be helpful to you. So, today, we will cover 25 style terms that we think will be helpful for any gentleman.

25 Essential Menswear Terms To Know

Of course, we’re not going to go over very basic terms here, as we’re assuming that every gentleman will know what things like lapels, corduroy, or cufflinks are–we’ll be going into a bit more depth than that. On the other hand, there are also far too many different specific terms for things like shirt collars, tie knots, and overcoat styles to discuss in just one post. Therefore, what we’ll cover today are terms that are commonly used in menswear circles, but not necessarily understood by everyone.

Remember that when you have a true interest in classic menswear, you not only want to walk the walk by looking stylish, but you also want to be able to talk the talk–which is to say, to know the specific menswear terminology necessary to discuss the subject with others in depth.

1. Business Casual

Let’s start with a term that most people have heard in relation to dress codes but that can be confusing to some: business casual. This would refer to clothing that can be worn in the office but that is less formal than a full suit. Essentially, this boils down to something like a dress shirt and pants including something like chinos but usually, not jeans. It could include an outer layer like a sport coat or a sweater but you might forgo the necktie and if a tie is worn, it will usually have a more casual texture like a knit or a grenadine.

Sven Raphael Schneider in a variety of outfits suitable for business casual (with one also showcasing outerwear).

The final point we’ll make here is that business casual is still worn with leather dress shoes and never with sneakers. For more information on business casual, you can consult our full guide and if you’d like to learn more about the closely related term Smart Casual, our Dress Code Primer should have you covered. 

2. Sprezzatura

Sprezzatura a term that you’re likely to hear a lot in the online menswear world. This is an Italian term first used during the Renaissance to describe looking elegant without making it appear like you’re trying too hard to do so. In other words, you give the impression that you’re not worrying too much about looking perfect. This could be manifested by doing something like leaving some of the buttons undone on your cardigan or not putting the back blade of your tie through the keeper loop and just letting both blades hang freely.

Looking comfortable but not sloppy in your clothes can take some time to master but once you get familiar with the concept of sprezzatura, you should be able to work on it.

Essentially, it communicates a vibe of looking elegant and nonchalant, at the same time. Looking comfortable but not sloppy in your clothes can take some time to master but now that you’re familiar with the overall theory, you should be able to work on it.

3. Blazers & Sport Coats

Now, let’s look at some technical terms that are specific to different types of clothing. Our next term is a bit of a twofer here as we’re covering both blazers and sport coats. It may seem obvious at first what a blazer or sport coat is but in fact, these two terms don’t describe the same thing even though stores will often use them interchangeably. Yes, both are tailored jackets that are typically worn with trousers in a different fabric or color but most of the time what you’ll see referred to as a blazer is going to be a sport coat.

Nantucket Red chinos with a blue and white sport coat, linen pocket square and red and blue tie

A blazer is the more formal of these two jacket styles usually in a solid color. Although it can sometimes have striped patterns, typically though, a jacket with any other type of pattern is going to be a sport coat. A blazer has contrasting buttons often in metal and will sometimes have a crest on the chest pocket. This is because blazers have historically been associated with yachting clubs and other kinds of exclusive organizations.

Office outfit with tobacco brown knit tie and navy blazer

Whether you’re dealing with a blazer, sport coat, or suit jackets are probably the most complex garment in menswear and as such, they have many specific terms associated with them, which we’ll cover in terms 4 through 13.

4. Odd Jacket

Generally, when we hear the word “odd” today, we think of something strange, weird, or unusual–but this is a more traditional sense which is to say, that an odd jacket or indeed odd trousers are simply garments that are not originally part of a set. They’re individual garments and can, therefore, be mixed and matched with others.

An odd jacket is a garment that is not originally part of a set.

So, because blazers and sport coats are their own garments, they’re both naturally odd jackets and while a suit jacket is part of a suit, a matching set, it can also be worn as an odd jacket if worn with odd trousers.

5. Canvas

One of the most important things to consider when you’re buying a jacket of any type is the next term in our list: canvas. This describes an inner flexible layer usually made of wool and horsehair that will sit between the outer visible fabric of the jacket and the lining inside. The canvas helps a jacket to mold closer to the shape of your own body while you’re wearing it. Half-canvas will cover just the chest area whereas full canvas will come all the way down the front of the jacket.

Full Canvas

6. Fused Jacket

In contrast to canvassed jackets, fused jackets feature various materials that are glued to the underside of a jacket’s outer fabric in order to help stiffen it. Unlike canvassing, fusing doesn’t always shape well to the body and it can eventually make a jacket look unsightly as it comes undone, leading to puckering and warping over time. Generally speaking, then a fused interlining will be a sign of a cheap jacket.

Fused

7. Cupro

Speaking of linings, the actual lining that you can see when you hold a jacket open is next term: cupro. It will often look like silk but it’s generally more durable. You may also hear this lining referred to as Bemberg, which is in fact, a brand of cupro. It’s often called the king of linings and is definitely preferable to cheaper alternatives like polyester. 

Cupro is the actual lining that you can see when you hold a jacket open.

8. Drop

When you’re considering the fit of a suit, drop is definitely a term you’ll want to know. This refers to the difference in inches between a jacket’s chest measurement and the measurement for the waist of the trousers. The standard drop size is a six. So, for example, if you have a size 40 regular jacket the standard trousers are going to be in a 34 waist size.

A drop refers to the difference in inches between a jacket’s chest measurement and the measurement for the waist of the trousers.

The higher the drop measurement, the more likely it is that the suit will be slim fit as there will be a greater difference between the chest and waist measurements.

9. Gorge

As far as the appearance of a jacket goes, the gorge is also an important feature. This is the point where a jacket’s collar and its lapel connect together usually forming a notch on many jackets but of course, countless other lapel styles do exist as well.

A higher gorge

If the gorge is high up as it is on modern jackets this is usually to create an impression of height or to make your chest look broader. A lower gorge, meanwhile, is a sign of a more classic and traditional jacket and should make your shoulders look wider.

A contemporary Attolini suit with a high gorge; Gary Cooper in the late 1930s wearing a suit with a low gorge

10. Surgeon’s Cuffs

As the menswear movement has grown in recent decades. Some features that used to be hallmarks only of high-end jackets are now more mainstream. One example of this would be a surgeon’s cuffs. This term describes functional buttons on the sleeves of a suit jacket and dates to the 19th century when surgeons would operate still wearing their jackets and wanted to make rolling up their sleeves easier.

Surgeon Cuffs with handmade buttonholes

These days, you’re not likely to roll up the sleeves of any of your jackets but some men like to have working buttonholes on their jackets and will often leave the first button open to show that the buttonholes are indeed functional. However, as we’ve said, this is a feature that while once exclusive is now more mainstream, so a jacket with working cuffs doesn’t necessarily mean that it is high-end. In fact, having a ready-to-wear jacket with surgeon’s cuffs might actually make it harder to alter the sleeve measurements, if you need to. So, this may be something to shy away from unless you’re having a jacket made bespoke.

11. Three-Roll-Two

The next term is a bit of a strange one, but it describes how a jacket is buttoned. Traditionally, most men’s jackets will have either one, two, or three buttons although jackets with more do exist. If a jacket does have three buttons and the top button is clearly visible, not obscured by the lapel then that top button is meant to be buttoned.

A three-roll-two blazer

However, if the lapel rolls over this top button or if it’s pressed down to fully obscure it, that top button is not meant to be buttoned and the jacket can be referred to as a three-roll-two or sometimes a two and a half button jacket.

12. Tweed

When it comes to fabrics that make up sport coats, things like cotton, linen, wool, and silk are well known but if a jacket is made out of tweed, what is it actually made from? Tweed is not a fully unique fiber but actually, a kind of rough wool that originated in Scotland and Ireland as a kind of hard-wearing, cold weather cloth. Tweed is tough and tear-resistant while also resisting moisture which makes it an ideal choice for wearing out in the countryside when the weather is less than ideal.

Tweed sport coat with green and purple herringbone tones

13. Donegal

You may also have heard of Donegal. This is a type of tweed where different colored yarns are woven into the main yarn. The result is a vivid speckling that’s definitely eye-catching and handsome. Donegal is named after the county in Ireland where it first originated.

A Donegal is a type of tweed where different colored yarns are woven into the main yarn.

14. Grenadine

In a similar fashion to tweed, grenadine refers not to a specific type of fiber but rather to a weaving process. Grenadine is silk that is woven in a special way on all looms. The resulting ties have a gauzy, open weave and they’re a great alternative to smoother printed silk ties because they can be dressed up or down depending on the outfit.

Wool Grenadine ties by Fort Belvedere

15. Madder

A lesser-known form of a printed tie is madder; also called ancient madder. It’s named after a plant whose roots have been used to dye silk for thousands of years. Natural madder dye resulted in a vivid red color but it has now been synthesized and can be produced into a range of other bright color options.

Madder Silk Tie in Red with Buff Micropattern – Fort Belvedere

The silk is also treated in a specific way before it’s dyed and the result is a distinctive, chalky hand feel. Madder ties are most commonly made in either paisley or repeating geometric patterns. You can consult our guides on madder and grenadine for more information, and of course, we sell ties in both materials in the Fort Belvedere Shop.

16. Twill

Interestingly, compared to jackets, there are fewer terms related to shirts and trousers that you’ll really need to know in order to make the right decision or look your best. We’ll start with some shirt terms with twill. Twill is a kind of weave that creates a diagonal ribbed pattern in the fabric which is usually cotton.

Twill is a kind of weave that creates a diagonal ribbed pattern in the fabric which is usually cotton.

When it comes to shirts, this weave results in a subtle sheen which means that twill shirts are especially good for formal occasions and can be worn well with something like a printed silk tie. Twill is a term that you’re likely to see a lot because a twill weave can also be used on trousers, ties, and jackets, in addition to shirts.

17. Oxford Cloth

Meanwhile, Oxford cloth is in some ways, the opposite of twill, at least in terms of formality. This is a cotton fabric woven in a basket weave pattern using multiple crossing threads. Oxford cloth is usually thicker and less fine than other dress shirt weaves which means it’s slightly more casual, but this isn’t necessarily a bad thing as it means that oxford cloth shirts can be dressed up or down in your ensembles.

Oxford Cloth Shirt

The weave is also durable and easy to wash and it will get softer with age. Oxford cloth shirts, more often than not, will have a button-down collar which leads to a bonus term that you’ll often see: the OCBD, or Oxford cloth button-down shirt.

OCBD collar shirt with a green tennis sweater and a houndstooth tie in red and cream bourette silk from Fort Belvedere

18. Break

Moving down the outfit, let’s now cover some trouser terms that will be important to getting the correct look and fit, starting off with the term break. This term refers to how much the fabric at the bottom of your trouser leg will fold or crease as it hits the tops of your shoes. No break indicates that there is no folding or creasing of the fabric and thus nothing breaking the clean vertical line of the trouser leg. This is especially popular with modern trousers.

A comparison of various trouser break styles; full, none, and half.

A half break will indicate a bit of folding and a full break will feature a well-defined crease at the bottom of the trouser leg. Anything more than a full break, however, and you’re probably going to be dealing with fabric pooling around your ankles is definitely not a good look.

19. Rise

This is a term that’s often overlooked or not well known. This is the distance between the crotch seam of the trousers and the top of the waistband. While trousers do technically have both a front and back rise, the front rise is typically going to be more important for the look of your trousers.

A rise is the distance between the crotch seam of the trousers and the top of the waistband.

A high rise will make your legs look longer as your trousers are going to sit at your natural waist, in line with your navel. This is a more traditional style in contrast to more modern styles, which favor a lower rise, where the pants will typically sit around the hips and will make your legs look shorter overall.

Low, mid and high rise pants

What rise you’ll want to wear depends somewhat on taste as well as on your proportions but if you’re going for a traditional look and don’t want any of your shirt to be exposed underneath your buttoned jacket, a medium to high rise will probably be best.

Our final terms today all deal with footwear. As with jackets, shoes have a number of highly technical things that go into their construction so it’s not surprising that there are a number of related specific terms.

20. Welt

An important term to remember when discussing shoes is our next pick: the welt. It is a narrow strip of material holding the shoe together. Traditionally, it’s made of leather but it can be made of rubber or plastic as well and it essentially acts as a gasket between the upper and the sole of the shoe. The most well-known shoe construction process to feature a welt is Goodyear welted construction which uses a machine to make a curved stitch through the upper insole and the welt. This type of welt stitch can also be done by hand where it’s then most correctly called a hand welt whereas a Goodyear welt is technically done only by machine.

Goodyear Welt Construction

Some construction methods, meanwhile, don’t make use of a welt like the other major method: Blake construction. This is instead held together by a stitch that runs through the insole and the upper to the outsole. Several other stitching methods do exist such as the Blake rapid stitch which allows for an extra outsole to be put on; Norvegese or Norwegian construction which also features no welt has the upper turned outward and running parallel with the outsole and has both an outsole stitch and an inner Norwegian stitch, and storm welting which is its own method but it borrows elements from both Goodyear welting and Norwegian and can be executed either way.

Blake Rapid Construction

This can all be a bit confusing especially since modern Goodyear welting also makes use of a rapid stitch for sturdier construction but in the broad strokes, know that a Goodyear constructed shoe features a welt whereas a Blake constructed shoe does not. By the way, not all shoes have this type of welted construction and cheaper shoes, in particular, are going to have what’s called cemented construction whereby the shoe’s sole is simply glued to the upper. As you can imagine, this isn’t a very high-quality method and is typically just going to be found in cheap shoes that will wear out quickly.

While this shoe’s sole and stitching look authentic at first, closer inspection reveals faux leather cemented on, with faux stitching added.

Italian shoes tend to feature Blake stitch soles whereas English and American shoes will typically feature a Goodyear welt. There are exceptions, of course. Blake soles are cheaper and more flexible to break in, but if they experience too much wear, repairing them can be a bit more difficult. Meanwhile, Goodyear welted soles are more sturdy and therefore usually more expensive, however, if you really love your pair of shoes having a Goodyear welt means that they can be more easily resoled multiple times, so you’ll be able to wear them for longer.

Norvegese – Norwegian Welt

Both blake stitch shoes and Goodyear welted shoes have their advantages and disadvantages so we’d suggest that if you want to learn more, you check out our article on the Anatomy of a Dress Shoe.

21. Vamp

If you polish your own shoes, it’s important to know the term vamp. The vamp is the part of the shoe between the toe and the lacing area and it’s the part that will often bend or crease as you break a shoe in more.

The vamp is the part of the shoe between the toe and the lacing area and it’s the part that will often bend or crease as you break a shoe in more.

You can minimize creasing of the vamp by using things like shoe trees and when polishing, remember not to apply too much cream or certainly wax polish to the vamp as it can crack when it bends. The vamp can also help you to understand the fundamental differences between the next two terms on our list.

22. Oxford Shoes

An oxford shoe is determined by its closed lacing system, where the shoelace eyelets are sewn under the vamp.

Ace Marks Cap Toe Oxford Black Antique

23. Derby Shoes

On the other hand, derby shoes as well as their close relative, bluchers, have an open lacing system where the eyelets are sewn onto the top of the vamp. Overall, the closed lacing style of an Oxford shoe is more formal whereas the open lacing style of derbies and bluchers is less formal. To understand all of the differences in greater depth, you can go to The Derby Shoe & Blucher Guide.

24. Broguing

You may sometimes hear Derby shoes referred to as brogues but this isn’t totally correct. In fact, the next term on our list, broguing, refers to decorative perforations often found on the toe cap of a shoe. Although they can also be found elsewhere throughout the shoe, these perforations were originally designed to be functional as water could drain out of them from shoes and boots as they were worn in wet and swampy conditions throughout Scotland and Ireland.

Broguing refers to decorative perforations often found on the toe cap of a shoe.

Today, however, broguing is purely an ornamental feature. What’s more, it can be found on both Oxfords and Derby shoes so setting up a dichotomy of Oxfords versus Brogues as the Kingsmen do isn’t a hundred percent correct. 

25. Wingtip

When the broguing pattern on the top of a shoe forms a curved v or w shape this is referred to as a wingtip shoe. The wings will typically terminate toward the sides of the shoe but they can actually make their way all the way around the back of the shoe in which case, they are longwing shoes.

Wingtip monk strap shoes with Fort Belvedere socks

To summarize here, just know that while broguing is most commonly seen on derby shoes, not all derbies are brogues. If you’d like more information on broguing and wingtip styles, you can find our article on Brogues & Wingtip Shoes Guide for Men.

classic longwing brogue

Conclusion

The 25 terms discussed here should help you to make more confident purchasing decisions and also to have better and more enriching discussions with other menswear enthusiasts. Attaining mastery of this vocabulary is just one of many steps in becoming more confident with your wardrobe and exhibiting the hallmarks of a gentleman.

How many of these terms did you know before reading? Are there others we should explore? Share with us in the comments!

When it comes to luxury goods, one question that many men likely ponder at some point is this: Can I have my cake and eat it, too? That is to say, wouldn’t it be awesome if you could justify spending money on something you really want, enjoy it for decades, and build wealth at the same time, eventually selling it for a profit? With this in mind, we’re tackling whether “investment watches” are a real thing, and if so, what models you might consider.

Before we continue, I should note that I’m not an investment advisor; if you want investment advice, get a licensed advisor. We are, on the other hand, classic style connoisseurs and watches have been part of the classic style world for many decades.

In recent years, watches have become particularly popular with millennials because when buying a home seems utterly out of reach, you can still reward yourself for a loved one with a nice luxury timepiece. Whether it’s a good thing or a bad thing is something I’ll leave up to you but it’s definitely a thing that’s happening right now. Further, the concept of investment watches is not new. Rolex sports watches, Audemars Piguet (notably the Royal Oak,) and watches from Patek Philippe are known to hold or increase their value over time.

Patek Philippe makes some of the best Swiss watches on the planet and is leading in terms of value

In a list of the 100 most expensive timepieces ever sold at auction, only 17 of them were not Patek Philippe. Without a doubt, these were very special watches, but does investing also work with more widely available watches rather than let’s say Paul Newman’s Daytona or the Patek Philippe of the emperor of Ethiopia?

What We Mean By “Investment”

It’s a term that is widely used but at its core, it means that you buy something with the intention to get a higher return in the future. Sometimes though, people talk about investing when they buy something that simply makes them feel good.

If you just quickly search on Youtube, you’ll find a bunch of videos that’ll tell you watches are a great investment. And I agree with them because sometimes I really want to show off what a baller I am with all my Rolex watches. All jokes aside, yes, if you’re rich and you can afford the rare collectible Patek Philippes and hold on to them and sell them at a later point in time, investing in watches is probably a good idea.

This concept is not limited to the watch market. Just think about rare instruments such as the ones from Stradivarius or cars. If you bought a McLaren F1 in the 90s originally for $1 million, you can turn around and sell today for $15 million. That’s an awesome return. And there are many other cars, for example, the Ferrari 288 GTO or the Mercedes SLR Sterling Moss, all increased significantly in value.

For a Fiat 500, a Cadillac Escalade or Mercedes S Class, it’s probably not gonna work the same way. Why? Well at the base, it’s a numbers game. The highest prices usually are realized by things that are very rare and limited. Most people will never be able to afford them and that’s the very reason they fetch such high prices–because they’re exclusive.

7 Underlying Concepts of Investing In Watches

The big question is not “Are watches a good investment?”, but “Are there investment watches that you can afford?” Let’s start by digging into the 7 underlying concepts of investing in watches and then let’s look at some specifics.

Two Rolex Daytonas side by side

1. Make Sure You Can Afford It

First of all, you must have the money to participate in such a high priced world. For example, if you buy a new Rolex Daytona, a Calatrava from Patek Philippe and a Royal Oak, you’ll probably have to estimate to pay around 60 grand.

2. Make Sure You Don’t Need The Profit Immediately

Once you’ve invested your money, you make sure you don’t really need the money immediately and you can wait until the price rises to a point where you feel comfortable selling.

Wait and observe the market for the right time to sell.

3. Knowledge of The Watch Market Is Necessary

No one can predict the future so you’ll have to sit back and see how the market develops and when is the right time to sell. Often, when you need to sell something it’s very hard to realize the true market value if there is not a standardized market, like the stock market for example.

Have a sophisticated knowledge of the watch market, the fluctuating values of brands and pieces.

You better have specialized knowledge about watches because even though a model may not change much from Rolex, there are certain details that make it much more valuable to collectors and certain colors and special things that are very very important. Unlike with stock, for example, where one stock from Tesla is exactly worth the same as another stock from Tesla. 

4. Investment Is About Increasing (Not Maintaining) Value

You have to believe that watches don’t just retain their value but that they will grow in the future. In the 1970s, the Swiss watch market was close to extinction because of the introduction of the quartz movement which made it seem that mechanical movements became unnecessary and outdated.

Quartz vs mechanical watch movement

Of course, they turned it around by making mechanical watches a luxury good and focusing on the craftsmanship. Certain companies like Rolex or the trinity of watchmaking really became powerful brands but the question is, “Will the kings of today be the kings of tomorrow?” It looks like it but you’ll never know for sure.

5. The Market Will React

You have to assume that the market will act as you predict it or as it has in the past. These are really the only two things you can go off but in all truth, this is true for any kind of investment and not just for watches.

The whole market may shift away from Patek Phillipe in the future in favor of some other brand or watches may simply go out of style.

Again, past behavior is no guarantee for future success and Patek Philippe is really expensive today; It may not be tomorrow, even though the chances are very slim because they understand in order to retain their value, they have to keep it exclusive and not just flood the market with $300 Patek Philippe watches. It’s all about keeping that brand cachet very high and unattainable for the average Joe.

6. Don’t Get Too Attached & Be Ready To Sell

You have to be willing to sell the watch at the right point in time and you can’t really get attached to it or sentimental about it, otherwise, you may sell it at the wrong point in time. After all, you only make money with an investment if you sell it at the right time.

7. Be Open To Selling Without An Organized Marketplace

You also have to be able to sell your watches at a specific point in time to a certain buyer without an organized marketplace such as the stock market. Of course, you could argue there’s tons of market places like Chrono24, Bob’s Watches or even eBay but the rates really fluctuate and it’s not the same as the stock market where you can just decide at any point in time to just buy and sell.

The second-hand watch market is spread over a series of websites such as Bob’s Watches.

Sure you can check out the prices on those second-hand platforms but just because there’s a list price that they have for their used watches, doesn’t mean that it’s actually something that you realize or that you end up with if you subtract all the fees involved. So, in order to successfully buy and sell watches for investments, you must believe in all of these concepts.

Investing In Watches With Little Money

Can watches also be a good investment if your pockets aren’t that deep? Well, the question is, how do you define deep pockets? If it means less than $5,000, watches are probably not a good investment for you. If you can spend about $5,000 to $10 000, now you can probably start. If you get the right model of a Rolex in stainless steel and you wear it and take care of it then you keep all the paperwork, chances are, you’ll be able to sell it at a profit 10 or 20 years down the line.

Rolex Dealer

If you like a watch below that price range, don’t look at it as an investment. Look at it as a luxury good, as an accessory, something that you wear and unlike other things, like your suit or your shoes, it just won’t depreciate as much in value or most likely it won’t. Also, you bought a watch that you liked and it didn’t increase in value, you at least get the joy out of looking at it and wearing it and be simply just happy about it.

Naturally, if you just look at the development of the retail price, chances are, they will go up due to inflation and other factors. But just because the retail price goes up, doesn’t mean that the used market street value rises as well. There may be a few exceptions to the rule, a Timex watch or a Max Bill watch from Junghans will likely not get you that big return that you’re hoping for.

Look at it as an accessory or luxury good, that may depreciate over time, but has the potential for appreciation like  this Timex Marlin Watch Reissue.

What if you have money to spare but you don’t want to buy a Rolex because you don’t like the look of it or you just don’t want to be that kind of a person? Well, I think the reason most people are interested in investment watches is because they have a certain affinity to watches.

Reliable Investment Watches

Here are a few watches you can look at, they have shown to be popular for a number of years, prices have increased on a retail level and chances are you should get a good rate even if you sell your used one and you bought it new.

1. Navitimer from Breitling
2. Chronoswiss Regulator
3. Reverso A from Jaeger-LeCoultre
4. Omega Chronograph Seamaster Professional

If you have more than $20,000, you could look at these options:

1. Lange 1 from A. Lange Und Söhne
2. Nautilus from Patek Philippe
3. Royal Oak Offshore from Audemars Piguet
4. IWC Doppelchronograph Fliegeruhr

(By the way, here’s our guide on how to pronounce watch brands the proper way!)

Conclusion: Are Watches Good Investments?

Well, they’re not a traditional investment vehicle because there’s not an organized buy and sell market. Historically, the biggest price increases came from Patek Philippe watches that were very rare and expensive in the first place. If you can afford the right model of Rolex in stainless steel, chances are, you can wear it, enjoy it and make more money back even if you sell it after years of use. You may even be able to make a profit with other brands but it requires specialized knowledge and it’s a bit more risky.

Raphael wearing his vintage Reverso watch from Jaeger-LeCoultre combined with Fort Belvedere accessories to keep everything harmonious.

At the end of the day, I’m a firm believer that investing in yourself pays the highest dividends. That being said, if watches aren’t your thing, well there are many other things you can invest money in and enjoy it such as rings or fountain pens or even clothing. One may argue that they are not an investment because it likely loses money but it just brings you pleasure.

What’s your stance on watches as investment pieces? Have you had success with them? Let us know in the comments!

Fragrance wearing has been around for thousands of years and is practiced by both men and women. It can lead to a better first impression and increase your confidence–so with that in mind, here are 10 great techniques for making your scent last all day.

According to the book, Neurobiology of Sensation and Reward, fragrance wearing may elevate one’s social status and attractiveness, and might also elicit highly emotional associations and responses. Fragrances can also increase one’s perceived trustworthiness and can also make the wearer feel much more confident as well. We have experienced these benefits ourselves!

How To Make Cologne Last Longer

For most men, a quick way to finish off a morning grooming routine is to spruce themselves with their favorite fragrance before they head out the door and while this might seem like a great way to make the fragrance last longer, it oftentimes doesn’t last by the time you’ve reached your destination. The goal here is to make sure that our carefully selected fragrance will last us all day long, so check out these simple cologne hacks.

Applying cologne before you head out the door might seem like a great way to make the fragrance last longer, but it oftentimes doesn’t last by the time you’ve reached your destination.

1. Check the Concentration Level

It’s important to know that there are different types of colognes and a general understanding of their concentration and purity level will give you an idea as to how long those scents might last. For example, perfume has the highest concentration level ranging from about 15 to 40 percent. This ensures that the scent will last for around 8 hours. It’s great to find a scent that has a stronger concentration level that you truly enjoy wearing. 

Always check your cologne’s concentration level.

By the way, we’ve discussed concentration levels and the different technical terms for scents (such as parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne, and more) in our in-depth guide here. Also, if you haven’t found your distinguishing scent yet, check out our recommendations of classic men’s fragrances here.

2. Apply Right After You Shower

As mentioned before, applying your fragrance right before you head out the door seems logical but in actuality, it’s best to apply your fragrance right after you shower. “But won’t it dissipate as I go through the rest of my grooming regimen,” you might ask. Actually, no. This is because when you step out of the shower your pores are still open; this is the perfect time for your body to be able to absorb the cologne and to lock-in that aroma.

Applying your cologne when you’re fully dressed could lead to stains on your fabric from the oils and alcohol.

That way, we begin to achieve our goal of making the scent last longer. This is much better than trying to spray it on yourself when you’re fully dressed. This is because the cologne will then latch onto the fabric and eventually, dissipate much quicker, and oftentimes, it runs the risk of being able to stain your clothing rather from oil or the alcohol content.

3. Moisturize Your Skin

For the skin to lock in the cologne scent, it should first be hydrated so apply a lotion or cream underneath but keep in mind the scent of your moisturizer should not be overpowering your cologne. Ensuring that your fragrance is the dominating scent here, is going to give you a confidence boost and help others perceive you well for the very first time. Walking into a workplace or a casual gathering with a cloud of 12 scents could be seen as both confusing and perhaps upsetting to others. The subtle scent of your fragrance should help enhance your presence to others; not force them away.

Moisturize your skin.

An extra tip here will be to apply petroleum jelly onto your pulse points. This helps ensure that you have an additional barrier between your skin and the cologne, helping prevent complete absorption so that the cologne will last much longer. 

4. Harmonize Cologne with Other Scents

If you can’t get a hold of a fragrance-free lotion, make sure that the scent itself does blend well with your cologne. Some brands will offer a matching lotion or cream even a body wash. This will help ensure you achieve that harmonious scent. That being said, it’s also very important to make sure that our aftershave is not competing with the aroma of our other products in the grooming repertoire.

Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion, in addition to hydrating well, is also fragrance-free.

5. Apply On Pulse Points

Another important rule in applying fragrance so that it will last longer is applying it to pulse points on warm areas of your body. The heat in these areas will keep this thing going all day long. The pulse points are your chest neck, lower jaw, forearms, inside of your elbows, and behind your knees. This is a lot of areas, so if you’re just starting out, try two or three areas first–and when you’re comfortable wearing more fragrance, then you can start to spray on more of these warm areas.

Make the fragrance last longer by applying it to the warm areas on your body.

Keep in mind it’s important to position the nozzle three to six inches away from your skin and to only spray yourself about two times per area if your cologne is of regular intensity so that you’re not too overpowering when you enter the room.

6. Don’t Rub Your Skin

Although rubbing your wrists together after first applying a fragrance might seem like a sensible thing to do, it’s actually not a great idea. This will kill the note and it will not allow the fragrance to absorb into your skin. The rubbing friction actually breaks down the molecules of the scent, making the scent disappear much faster. I personally have made this mistake numerous times; it’s something we see a lot of people do and we all just happen to repeat it.

Don’t rub your skin while applying a fragrance!

7. Discreetly Reapply When Necessary

If you need a midday boost of your scent, it makes sense to reapply your fragrance. However, carrying around an entire bottle of fragrance is not only inconvenient but trying to spray in public places is not gentlemanly and also it might be upsetting to others and some might even be allergic.

Cotton swabs can be used to reapply cologne in a discreet manner.

A great technique is to spray your cologne onto cotton swabs and then to put them in a plastic sandwich bag to ensure the moisture is not escaping. It’s easy to carry around all day and when you need a touch-up, you can simply reapply by dabbing these onto your pulse points. Consider stepping into a restroom or somewhere private to reapply. 

8. Line Your Clothes Drawer with Cologne

Although we don’t recommend spraying your clothing directly, you can make sure your signature scent will attach itself to your clothing in a proper way by lining your clothing drawers with tissue paper that has been sprayed with your favorite scent. This helps you keep your aroma throughout the day even at a whiff. 

Line your clothing drawers with tissue paper that has been sprayed with your favorite scent.

9. Store Your Fragrance Properly

To make sure that your cologne keeps its smell and quality for as long as possible, it’s important to understand where we should be keeping fragrances within our homes.

• Don’t store it in your bathroom. This is because the chemical makeup can get completely messed up by the changing temperatures and humidity from when you shower.
• Keep your cologne in a cool and dry place. Perhaps your bedroom drawer or even your closet help ensure its quality. 
• Avoid exposing your fragrances to sunlight. This will break down the chemicals and the potency of your fragrance and will surely make your cologne expire much sooner.

Keep your cologne in a cool and dry place.

It’s also very important to check the expiration date to make sure that your fragrance concentration is intact and this will help ensure that it will last as long as possible. You’ll find this information on the bottom of your bottle or on the label. Some companies list the period after opening which gives you information as to how many months the cologne can last before it expires. Typically though, fragrances can last up to three years when handled properly.

Check the expiration date at the bottom of your bottle.

10. Keep Fragrances in Their Original Bottles

Lastly here, to make sure that your cologne lasts longer, it’s important to remember to keep it in the original bottle in which you purchased it. There are very fancy bottles on the market today but exposing your fragrance to the air and making it evaporate is not a great idea. This will upset the fragrance itself, its potency, and the chemical makeup. 

Exposing your fragrance to the air and making it evaporate is not a great idea.

Conclusion

It’s important to remember that fragrances enhance a man’s overall confidence level but remember, less is more. Practice these fragrant acts along with a proper grooming repertoire so that you can smell great and fresh all day long, and not commit scent blunders. To save yourself from more common grooming mishaps that so many men commit, check out our video here.

Do you practice any of these fragrance hacks? How long are you able to make your cologne last? Share with us in the comments!

Jewelries are most widely seen worn by women, which is why today, men either belong to two camps: those who don’t wear them at all thinking they’re for women; and those who wear too much! Let’s discuss some dos and don’ts of wearing jewelry to know the right amount of metals you should wear to achieve a truly classic men’s style.

Throughout history in different cultures what can and cannot be worn by men has varied and still varies greatly. For example, if you think of the Maharajas in India or the French kings of the 18th century with their showy gems, it could be considered to be effeminate or over the top in this day and age. However, if anything, history has shown us that wearing jewelry as men is something very normal. By definition, jewelry is an accessory that is made in parts of metal or gemstones or semi-precious stones that serve as ornamentation and doesn’t necessarily have any practical value.

Typical Pieces of Jewelry for Men

1. Cufflinks

Cufflinks actually do serve a purpose but just because they do, doesn’t mean they’re not jewelry because they are very decorative. When it comes to men’s jewelry apart from rings, cufflinks are probably the most widely worn item today. Most of them come in metals that are usually less expensive; more precious metals include sterling silver, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, or platinum. You can have a sterling silver cufflink that is heavily plated with platinum or gold that will never rub off and you can pass on to your grandchildren.

Raphael’s collection of cufflinks.

Sometimes cufflinks have decorative elements such as enamel or semi-precious stone inserts such as lapis lazuli or onyx or they could have sapphires or rubies. Sometimes, they’re also made out of shell such as mother of pearl or maybe some jade. Of course, cufflinks require you to wear a shirt that is made for them which is typically a French cuff or double cuff shirt that is folded over. For White Tie, you can also have a single-cuffed shirt that is also worn with cufflinks. In a more casual setting, you can sometimes find combination cuffs which are button cuffs but they also have two buttonholes so they can be worn with cufflinks.

Silver Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls from Fort Belvedere

Personally, I love to wear cufflinks and when I wear a suit, I usually always wear cufflinks and even with a sport coat. If you’re interested, you can click here to be taken to our guide that gives you a glimpse into my cufflink collection and if you’re interested in high-quality cufflinks at a fair price, check out the cufflinks at the Fort Belvedere Shop.

Raphael wearing the Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Onyx Ball from Fort Belvedere with his suit jacket.

2. Shirt Studs & Waistcoat Buttons

Shirt studs and waistcoat buttons are not anymore as popular today, but traditionally, shirt studs were worn with formal outfits such as a Black Tie outfit or White Tie and they were just more decorative than the regular buttons you have sewn-on on dress shirts today. Often, those shirt studs would match the cufflinks and you basically have a set. Today, most people don’t attend many Black Tie functions and so, it’s really valuable to have a pair of cufflinks that can be worn independently of formal functions.

Shirt studs were traditionally worn in Black Tie or White Tie outfits.

Also, if you travel, you can just bring one set of shirt studs and cufflinks and you can wear it with regular events, with business events, and for formal events. Because of that, I designed a set with monkey fist cufflinks that you can find here. You can buy them independently,  you can wear them independently, but it’s kind of the one set that works for all.

Some would match their shirt studs, cufflinks, and waistcoat buttons all in the same look.

Traditionally, men would also wear removable matching waistcoat buttons so you had shirt studs, cufflinks, and waistcoat buttons all in the same look. This was called a full dress set and today, you can’t really find them new anymore. You have to buy them vintage, but if you go to all those lengths and dress up for black tie and white tie, you might as well go the extra mile, especially if you’re into clothes and it’s just a hobby and a passion for you just like it is for me.

Waistcoat buttons.

3. Watches

A watch is functional as it tells you time, but ultimately today, it’s more of a jewelry piece for most men especially if they invest a lot of money into it to show off certain complications or just a really cool look. Of course, one could argue if it has a leather strap, it’s more of an accessory. If it has a metal band, it’s more of a piece of jewelry, but at the end of the day, it doesn’t matter. It’s all about what you think and how you feel.

Raphael looking dapper with his watch that pairs well with his outfit.

As a funny side note, historically, it was impolite to have a watch with you because if you would look at it in company, you would imply that you had better things to do which would have been considered to be rude. Then came the pocket watch and today, people wear their Rolex Submariner with their tuxedo outfits even though it doesn’t make sense from a formality point of view.

Rolex Submariner

4. Rings

Perhaps, the most obvious jewelry item a man can wear is a classic ring; the most common one being the wedding band or the wedding ring but you can also have things like a pinky ring or a signet ring. If you want to know how many rings you should wear and what’s the specific meaning of a ring if you wear it on your thumb or your middle finger, our guide to Men’s Ring Meaning & Definitions can surely be of help.

Pinky ring.

Personally, I like rings a lot and I have quite the collection. Typically, I wear a wedding band and one other ring–be the pinky ring or something on the ring finger on the opposite hand.

Some men like Raphael would wear a pinky ring on one hand and their wedding band on the other.

5. Tie Bars or Tie Clips

Particularly, men who don’t just dress up because they have to but because they want to find that a tie bar or a tie clip is just another thing they can add to make their outfit more special. A more functional advantage of a tie bar is if you have one shoulder that is lower than the other like me, your tie will have a tendency to go in one direction and a tie clip can keep it in place all day so it always looks neat.

A tie bar can also be worn to keep your tie in place.

Tie clips are an elegant example of having a functional item that still serves an ornamental purpose. Sometimes, you can even find vintage sets that have matching tie bars and cufflinks back in the 60s, 70s, and 80s, you could also find tie tacks and sometimes they had chains that held your tie in place. If you wear it today it gives you a certain vintage look which is okay. If that’s what you’re going for but it’s definitely a modern aesthetic.

Tie clip

If you go in the further back men wore tie stick pins which were just a pin that would go through your tie and no, it doesn’t damage it even though it leaves a little hole. Today, you can wear them with ascots, especially formal ones and maybe even with a formal three-piece suit. I like the look of it because it’s very subtle but it’s different. Prince Charles, for example, still wears them today and particularly with morning wear ensembles. If you want to learn how to use a stick pin for a formal cravat, please check out our guide here.

Some would wear a stick pin on their cravats.

6. Collar Pins, Collar Clips & Collar Bars

Collar pins, clips, and bars are among the accessories that had their heyday during the 1930s. At that time, a lot of men would wear them over the years. They almost completely lost their appeal to Main Street and really only dandies or clotheshorses would wear them to underline their unique style. Fortunately, in recent years due to shows such as Boardwalk Empire, Mad Men, Peaky Blinders, or Perry Mason, more men have become aware of collar clips and collar pins and as a consequence, you see more men wearing them today.

Preston wearing a tie clip in yellow gold from Fort Belvedere

Again, they’re typically worn by men who don’t feel like they have to wear a uniform but who see clothing as an expression of their personal style and they enjoy it. Traditionally, collar bars, clips, and pins were only worn with very narrow collars because you couldn’t have that much of a spread. It would slightly elevate the tie knot but today, collars are typically a bit more spread, so many of our customers asked us to make a wider collar clip; we listened and we did. To learn about wearing a collar clip or pin in your outfit without looking over the top, check out our guide on How To Style A Collar Clip.

E.B. Jonathan from HBO’s Perry Mason wearing a tie clip

7. Chains & Fobs

When the pocket watch was at its peak, men would of course also have a pocket watch chain that they would wear. Typically, the vest had a little hole or it was just pulled to a buttonhole and you would see it in the front and the pocket watch was in your vest pocket. If you wear a watch chain today, it adds a distinctive vintage look to your appearance and people typically only do it if they’re really into clothes. Personally, I really like wearing a double Albert chain with a hole in a double-breasted vest because it has this symmetrical look, has a little fob on it and it’s just very debonaire in my mind. 

A pocket watch with an Albert chain.

When it became historically okay to wear a timepiece with your evening wear and people weren’t offended if you looked at it, first, you had really flat thin pocket watches and those wouldn’t be worn with a long watch chain but with a simple fabric fob or that was a bit decorative in your vest waistcoat pocket.

Pocket watches used to be worn with short chains or with a simple fabric fob.

Today’s style icons such as Lino Ieluzzi have popularized chains in menswear again. For example, he uses it with a money clip in his pocket and then the other end of the chain being attached to a belt loop or a belt, so when he wears a jacket or a suit, it hangs out underneath and you can see it like with a pocket watch. This is definitely a more casual approach to wearing a chain but it’s nevertheless quite popular and modern, and it works well if you don’t want to be too stiff in your overall appearance.

Lino Ieluzzi

8. Bracelets, Necklaces & Chains

If I look at my dad’s generation, I could often see men wearing necklaces or bracelets and I remember I used to wear one because my dad would and so I got one. I even got a silver bracelet on one of our Turkey vacations back in the day. In combination with a mullet, five rings on your fingers, and a strong tan, you can look like you’re straight up in New Jersey from the 1980s.

Bracelets, necklaces, and chains were often worn by past generations.

A more modern approach to bracelets is semi-precious stones such as tiger’s eye or onyx or lapis lazuli. In my mind, they’re a bit of a fad and I’m sure they won’t stay around. They’re also not really part of the classic men’s style realm, at the same time, all the younger people like to wear it and it’s more in line with a casual approach to style. Heavy link chains are typically of gold or in gold colors and they’re sometimes bedazzled with diamonds and they have become a status of wealth in society today; they’re not something that is classically associated with permanent men’s style.

A tiger’s eye bracelet.

9. Belt Buckles

Most people will think of belt buckles as a very functional item and not an ornamentation item but if you think about it, cowboys, for example, have sterling silver buckles with inlaid turquoise or you can spend thousands of dollars on Hermes H buckles in precious metals, for example, that are definitely more of a jewelry piece than a functional piece even though they serve a functional use.

Raphael wearing the Hermes “H” belt

Personally, I like to match the color of my belt buckle to the rest of my accessories and to do that very effectively, I work with a belt system that allows me to change the style and color of my belt buckle very easily with all the belts I have in my collection. You can learn more about this technique from our How to Pair Belts & Shoes (and Your Metal Accessories) guide.

Always try to match your metals.

10. Lapel Pins or Chains

Even though lapel pins or chains are quite a rare sight, they still are around and I’ve found that in recent years they’ve become more popular than maybe 20 years ago. It’s either a pin that goes through the buttonhole of your lapel or sometimes it’s a chain that drapes from the buttonhole down into your pocket. Sometimes they’re old pocket watch chains that just have been repurposed.

Lapel chains

Just like a boutonniere, a lapel pin can make you stand out a bit more because it’s a bit more uncommon. But even politicians sometimes have little pins there that show their association to their country or their alma mater.

Dos and Don’ts for Men’s Jewelries

1. Don’t Show Off

The first rule is to skip jewelry that has big branding on it or that’s super ostentatious unless of course, you want to impress others with your status symbols rather than your intellect, humor, or charm. Frankly, trying to impress others with their expensive Hermes belts or Rolex watches typically means that there’s an insecurity that you have to overcome because you don’t feel valued enough by others without them.

Trying to impress people with expensive jewelry is often linked to insecurities that a person needs to overcome.

Always keep in mind, jewelry catches the eye because it’s typically made of metal or reflective and it is made to draw your attention to it. As a general rule of thumb, less is more and if someone calls it bling, it’s a good indicator that it’s too much.

Too much “bling” is a good indicator that your jewelry is just too much.

So, if you wear a White Tie or Black Tie, you don’t have to wear that watch and it was historically acceptable to do so. Cufflinks for daywear are typically made out of just gold or silver without any bold diamonds that are sparkling and just showy. Of course, some precious stones are different because they’re less showy; they just pick up a color that’s in your tie. But, at the end of the day, it’s your style, and if you want to be bolder and wear bolder colors and more jewelry go for it just be aware of how it could be perceived by others.

“Less is more” in White Tie or Black Tie outfits.

2. Don’t Wear Too Many Jewelries At Once

Coco Chanel’s advice to women was to always look in the mirror and then remove one accessory and the same holds true for men. A common misconception is that more jewelry is more formal, but a little dose of minimalism can really help. So, if you have one loud ring or signature cufflinks keep the rest really toned down.

This advice from Coco Chanel holds true for men as well.

For rings, most men are fine with a wedding band and maybe one other ring on the opposite hand. If you look at pictures of Pitti Uomo, you see a bunch of guys wearing stacked bracelets and other accessories which is a good way to show that too much is just not a good take because it looks overloaded.

Don’t wear too many jewelries.

3. Don’t Wear Oversized Jewelry

For men, that could be an extremely big gold watch or a ring that resembles that of an NFL championship ring. Usually, big expensive rings or items of jewelry for men are really no different than a status symbol. It’s an equivalent of a woman wearing a really big engagement ring and holding it in a way that everyone can see how much money someone spent on you. It can easily come across as looking cheap or like a mobster or drug lord. Keep in mind that subtlety is the key to true elegance.

Avoid wearing oversized jewelry

4. Do Choose The Right Proportions for Your Jewelry

If you are a bigger person and you have bigger fingers, by all means, go with a ring that is more substantial. If you’re a very thin guy, maybe a thinner band works just like a thinner tie would or a jacket with skinnier lapels. In the same way, if you have thin wrists and have a small build, well a smaller watch is better than one with a larger diameter.

Choose a piece of jewelry that has the right proportion with your body.

5. Do Select Jewelry That Has A Personal Meaning

There is a reason why Pandora is so commercially successful because they allow women to commemorate certain events in their life and make it part of their jewelry bracelet. Men can do the same with a watch, a signet ring, or a pair of cufflinks that can commemorate an important step in their life. It can be something they reward themselves for or it can be tied to a relative like your father, your uncle who handed it down to you, which then makes the jewelry very special to you and is above its materialistic value.

Pandora allows customization on their bracelets.

At the same time, be careful not to be too kitschy and maybe have political party affiliations made part of your jewelry. It will likely just alienate people and it’s the equivalent of wearing t-shirts with bold messages on them.

Statement shirts won’t be dapper.

6. Do Match Your Metals

That may sound simple at first but once you think about all the different metals in your outfits it can be quite tricky. If you don’t happen to have a matching metal for everything, that’s okay, don’t be self-conscious, and just wear it. If you can make it all work together, consider it and the overall result will be better. And no, if your wedding band is gold or silver, you should always leave it on and not try to take it off or mix and match other things because again, it has a meaning and that’s more important than matching up the colors.

Always try to match your “metals”.

7. Do Choose Jewelry Based on The Occasion

This is not just true for clothing in general, but particularly for jewelry, you wouldn’t want to show up or bedazzled at a funeral because that would draw the attention to you and your status symbols or shiny objects rather than to the deceased. Another example is if you’re going to a job interview, it’s probably wise not to wear your most expensive Rolex watch. On the other hand, though, when you’re negotiating a business deal and the other person wants to see that they’re dealing with an accomplished business person, that Rolex may actually help you. Remember that there’s no cut and clear rule about what to wear, it all depends on the situation.

Wear your jewelry based on the occasion.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we all have different styles and someone can pull-off wearing earrings, a number of bracelets, and rings and it just works with their overall style. But if you look at it from a lens of the classic permanent style, all the jewelry items and rules we’ve laid out here will serve you well. Always keep in mind that when you’re in doubt, always tone it down and go with less than more.

How do you like to wear your jewelries? Or do you fall in the camp of men that don’t wear them at all? Tell us in the comments!

Today, many men turn to fashion trying to negate the implications of getting older. By doing so, they end up looking like a man in a mid-life crisis masquerading as a teenager. But of course, aging is inevitable. So, in a society and an employment market where youth is highly valued, what can you do as a more seasoned gentleman to look both youthful and authentic?

In the HBO show Succession, for example, the character of Kendall Roy starts wearing Lanvin sneakers even though he’s in his 40s, and he just does that so he can be more accepted in the company he’s planning to buy–but people see right through it and it backfires on him. The same is true when you try to dress too young. It’s just not believable and it makes you look awkward.

Raphael looking youthful and stylish in his casual outfit.

The good news is, there are certainly ways that can make you look younger in a positive way because they don’t make you look too young, but somewhat age-appropriate without looking old or stodgy. Youthful clothing is generally trendier; bolder, more colorful, and you have to take it in the right dose to make it work for your age. The goal is to find clothing that suits your age but it’s also modern enough that it makes you feel updated and fresh.

Mistakes Men Make When Trying to Appear Younger

1. Wearing Athletic Clothing In Public

It’s not a good look to wear sweatpants or athletic attire in public when you’re actually not working out. However, younger guys these days wear a lot of sweatpants in public and it’s just part of their look. While this can emphasize a young man’s youth, on an older man it will just look more sloppy or even lazy. Being older means you have to try harder to look younger and you have to be more intentional about it.

Wearing athletic clothes in public will make you look sloppy or even lazy.

Keep in mind that the more casual the look is, the less likely it is to help you to look actually youthful. Maturity comes with the expectation that you are as mature as you look. Can you try to twist the perception in your favor? Absolutely. Let’s say you’re 60 and you want to look like someone in their early 50s, or that you’re 50 and you want to look like someone in their early 40s. However, it doesn’t work if you’re 70 and you want to look like you’re 25.

Alternatives for Older Men

So, if not sweats and athleisure attire, what can you wear instead that makes you look young but not too young? If it’s really hot outside, maybe just wear a polo shirt and a pair of shorts. If it’s not that hot, you can go with a pair of longer pants, and that’s even more dressy. During hot months of the year, seersucker is a great material for pants. Linen is also a great material for older men because it has a certain element of casualness which makes you look younger, at the same time, it’s very sophisticated and classic.

A linen shirt and a pair of chinos would be a more stylish look for going out than sweatpants and a hoodie.

If you think about golf attire, it’s generally rather formal for casual wear but it has traditional patterns. It’s usually a little bolder and maybe it’s a look that works for you. In any case, it’s better than sweatpants and athleisure in public.

2. Wearing Sneakers At The Wrong Time

As we age, our body wears out and chances are, you may develop some arthritis or your feet hurt when you walk! So, sneakers may seem like a great idea because they’re more comfortable than dress shoes, for example. Right now, it is a youthful trend to wear sneakers with everything from your workout clothes all the way to your suits. As an older chap, wearing sneakers with everything doesn’t work because it looks like you’re just trying too hard.

You can pair your chinos with leather sneakers but don’t make it your default choice.

Any pair of leather sneakers, such as the one Kyle highlights in our guide to sneakers (pictured above) can work with a nice pair of chinos, maybe some jeans, or a pair of shorts–but don’t use it as your default choice in clothing. As an older man, you can’t get away with being sloppy but that also doesn’t mean you have to be dressed to the T at all times of the day.

What Should You Wear Instead?

First, pick and choose occasions for wearing sneakers: maybe for going grocery shopping or going on a walk or running some errands. Also, let’s say you go to the playground with your grandkids, that’s an appropriate time to wear sneakers. Rather than full-on tennis shoes, go with a nice pair of neat looking leather sneakers — they just suit your age much better. In other situations think about a pair of driving mocs or boat shoes. If it gets a little colder, maybe an unstructured pair of chukka boots are the exact perfect mix between casual and polished look. 

Raphael prefers loafers because they’re dressy yet still comfortable (Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Dark Navy Blue and Royal Blue by Fort Belvedere)

Personally, I’m a big fan of loafers because they’re a dress shoe but they’re still quite comfortable and they just have a certain dynamic and a debonair look to them. If you have problems with your feet and you suffer from pain, I hear you. What you can do is go to your cobbler and have them glue in a leather sole that is backed by foam that makes your shoes a lot more comfortable — almost like a sneaker, but it looks a lot better and more age-appropriate and it will still make you look young and fresh with a comfort that you need for feet at your age.

3. Wearing Baseball Caps As A Casual Accessory

Like athletic gloves, baseball caps can work in a specific context like you’re going to a baseball stadium, for example, cheering for your team. At the same time, if you wear a baseball cap and you go out for drinks with friends it makes you look just as bad as if you would wear sweatpants with sneakers. It will certainly make you look like you’re trying to hide your hair and I get it, we’re all getting less and less hair. If you want to learn about ways to treat hair loss, check out our Top 5 Hair Loss Treatments for Men. It’s a hundred percent not sponsored and I’m honestly trying to figure out the treatments myself.

Wearing a baseball cap outside to hide your hair would make you look like you’re trying too hard.

Hair and Hat Tips for Older Men

Firstly, you can get a haircut that is a little more youthful. That can be like an undercut inspired style and there are hundreds of great tutorials on YouTube. You can with classic hairstyles because sometimes if you go too aggressive on your haircut, it also doesn’t work for you. However, a new haircut can really refresh the entire look of your outfit and your persona.

Look dapper with a classic hat instead like this Panama hat that Raphael is wearing.

So, if it’s really hot outside or you want some cover for your hair or for your head, go with a more classic hat like a Panama hat. Something in a lighter color or maybe a pork pie or something with a shorter brim — that’s a bit more youthful than something with a super-wide brim. That being said, a hat should first and foremost, fit your body and your face shape, which we discuss in-depth in the guide How to Get the Right Hat For Your Face Shape & Body Type.

4. Wearing Trendy, Tight Clothing

First of all, clothes trends come and go very quickly and it’s very expensive to keep up with them. Second, as a more seasoned man and a metabolism that’s not quite as strong as it used to be in your 20s, tight-fitting clothes that are super trendy will show every imperfection and every extra pound you have which is not advantageous and doesn’t make you look younger. It just makes you look ill-prepared.

Super tight clothes are unflattering and would make you look like you’re seeking attention.

Also, the older you get, the more ridiculous trendy items will look on you. Just think about those really bold Balenciaga sneakers or maybe those La Martina polos or Ralph Lauren polos with huge logos. Moreover, wearing undersized clothes that are super tight such as skinny jeans or super slim-fitting suits, will make you the opposite of well-dressed because they just look like you want attention at all costs even though it doesn’t fit you well.

What Should You Wear Instead?

You can still harness the youthfulness of modern trends by just taking a more moderate approach to them. This means you have to incorporate the overarching trend. If the current trend is to have slim lapels and jackets, and have really tight and slim fit models, such as pants or jackets, you can go to the alterations tailor and have your pants slim down a little bit; have maybe a dart added to your shirt, and slim things down so you look more modern without being overly skinny and tight.

Ask an alterations tailor instead to slim your pants a bit.

You can skip the pleats and go with a flat front or maybe shorten your pants slightly especially if you slim down the pant leg, so there’s no more break. Best of all, you should know how pants should fit, because, at the end of the day, it’s a very personal thing. If you have really big thighs like mine, something that’s very slim is just very unflattering.

5. Wearing Unflattering Jeans

Another mistake season gentlemen make when trying to look more youthful is to pick jeans or chinos they don’t flatter them in the color or the fit. Even though jeans or chinos seem very basic, they can really make you look very dated. For example, if you have a stonewashed pair of Wranglers from the ’90s, it’s just not a look that looks very advantageous these days.

Wear chinos or jeans that will compliment your body type.

On the flip side, if you wear the skinny jeans with the big holes and rips in your knees, it’s just not age-appropriate for you. The same is true for bold embroidery or acid washes or whiskering — it’s just something that’s super trendy and not something for a seasoned mature man. Why? Well, it’s a perfect example of a man in their midlife crisis, who is simply trying too hard.

Trouser Alternatives for Older Men

If you want to look younger but still tasteful, you have to fall somewhere in between the trendiest stuff and the very classic styles. It’s basically like goldilocks jeans, so you get the best of both worlds where it’s just right in the middle. It means jeans that are neither too tight, nor too loose and that is neither too light nor too dark. You want minimal details, you want no rips or staining, or aging on your jeans. Go for a pair with a proper length and if they’re a little slimmer, maybe skip the break altogether.

A mid or high-rise pants will flatter your physique more than low-rise pants would.

If you have regular slacks or pants, you may want to add a cuff but keep it slightly on the shorter side and avoid any puddling at the bottom of your pants. Avoid super low cut pants because they will really highlight your love handles. Instead, go with something like a mid or medium rise, maybe even a slightly higher rise because it will flatter your physique much more. Wearing those kinds of pants will make you look more intentional and younger and updated without looking outdated or over the top.

6. Dressing Like A College Boy

So, what do we mean by this? Just think about cargo shorts or flip-flops, graphic tees, sports jerseys or hoodies, and sweatshirts. While those garment choices will make a college boy look somewhat immature, they will make you look even worse.

While a sports jersey is appropriate when attending a game or party, it’s not ideal for everyday wear.

Smarter Choices for Older Men

Instead of khaki shorts, wear a nice pair of cotton chino shorts that just end slightly above the knee for a more modern youthful look. More tips on shorts can be found on the Men’s Shorts Guide For Summer. Also, instead of flip-flops, which are fine by the pool or at the beach, you can go with a nice pair of boat shoes or a pair of loafers, maybe with some woven leather. You can also go with some driving mocs that make everything a little more relaxed, youthful, and modern all the while still staying true to your age.

Cotton chino shorts that are just above the knee gives a modern and youthful look.

You can ditch the hoodie sweater for a sweater that you can also wear around your neck or you can go with a Harrington jacket, maybe even a denim jacket or a nice leather jacket. Instead of having graphic tees, go with solid t-shirts and definitely avoid the v-neck because it highlights your wrinkles in your neck area so always go with a crew neck.

A henley shirt is a great choice for men transitioning from t-shirts to polos and other formal styles.

Personally, I’d advise you from moving on from t-shirts in general and maybe going with a polo shirt. If that’s too formal for you, think about getting a Henley shirt; it just adds a bit more detail and more maturity to your outfits. Color-wise, I’d say, stay away from plain white or plain gray because they look more like undershirts. Also, don’t wear wife beaters. Instead, go with other more subtle colors. Again, upgrading to polo shirts is always a good idea in my mind. When it comes to sports jerseys, they’re fine to wear them on game day or when you’re at the bar but outside of that, leave it in your closet.

7. Wearing Excessive Colors And Patterns

Bold colors and patterns are certainly a way to catch someone’s attention but on an older man, it almost looks like you are very insecure and that’s not something you want people to think about you.

Hackett Flamboyant Outfit in Madras and Paisley–bold even for a young man!

What Should You Wear Instead?

Just because you should skip the pink pants paired with a bold flowery or paisley shirt, doesn’t mean you can’t incorporate color or patterns at all. What you can do is to use bold pops of colors or patterns in small doses so it could be a bold striped shirt, maybe a louder tie, or a pocket square or a boutonniere or maybe even your pants. But if you have one bold item, keep the rest more muted so it doesn’t overwhelm your personality.

Keep the rest of your outfit more muted if you already have one bold item.

Also, it’s always good to pair either a loud pattern or a bold color. Just imagine I would wear a shirt with a bold pink and white stripe; it would just be over the top. Instead, a brown and white are bold because of the pattern but the color scheme is very classic. The same is true for socks. Rather than wearing those bold, crazy socks that a lot of people wear with pizzas on them or football teams or dinosaurs, get a pair of two-tone striped socks that have subtle color variations; they work well with your pants, they look modern and fresh, but not to the extent that a pair of football socks would. They make you look modern, but not childish.

You can go for two-tone socks if striped socks are too much for you.

If striped socks are too much for you, maybe get a pair of two-tone solid socks that are a little more subtle but just visually interesting and they can even be a conversation starter. Or during the summer, when you wear loafers, you may even want to skip your socks altogether. I know a lot of older gentlemen who are vehemently against that, you can achieve that same look and protect your hygiene by going with no-show socks. Curious about pairing them with your pants and shoes? Our guide on how to combine socks, shoes & pants can surely help you!

Paper test to determine your skin undertone

If you have gray hair and your hair is getting whiter and you have a lighter skin tone, pastel tones are really your friend because it just makes you and your face pop and your wardrobe doesn’t overpower the rest of you. On the other hand, if you have a high contrast between your hair and your skin tone or if you’re black, you should pick colors that best flatter your skin tone, which we discuss more in this guide.

8. Using Young and Bold Scents

You may have realized by now that using Old Spice day in and day out has put you at a certain age category, even though you may not like it. In a push to be more youthful, you went out and tried to get a really young, bold, and kind of light scent in the hopes that people think of you as younger. Sadly, an older gentleman that smells like he just spent all day in an Abercrombie and Fitch store sends different signals. Yes, it’s overpowering but it also just doesn’t suit the style and the maturity level of that person.

Find a scent that works for you.

Choose Age-appropriate Colognes

So instead, get a quality scent that’s based around the season, such as lighter fragrances for summer. You can also find something that you just like, it works for you, and that’s classic, but not old and stodgy. If you haven’t yet found your classic scent, check out the list of  8 Classic Fragrances for Gentlemen we like and that may work for you.

Mont Blanc Individuel

Sometimes, you can also rely on brands. For example, Creed has a nice set of fragrances for seasoned gentlemen that make them smell young and modern or classic, whatever you like. While those scents are a little more on the expensive side, you can also find other colognes, such as Montblanc Individuel which has been a favorite of mine for years. If that doesn’t float your boat, maybe check out Eau Sauvage from Dior. It’s just a very nice scent, it doesn’t cost the world and it will neither age you nor make you super young; it’s just right. 

Bonus Tip: Avoid Body Odors & Bad Breath

While you probably know that sensory experience is very important, sometimes what we forget are body odors. So, yes, take a shower and use your deodorant, but bad breath is something that makes you look very old. People don’t want to have anything to do with you, the worst about it is that most people will never mention that you have bad breath even though you do and so maybe a loved one or someone who’s very close to you can give you an honest answer.

Various types of deodorants and antiperspirants.

At the same time we all have bad breath on occasion, not just because you get up and don’t brush your teeth but maybe because you drink a lot of coffee, you have some stomach issues, or whatever. For example, I recently had issues with bad breath and I realized it came from a water bottle that was reusable but I had to clean it every day otherwise, I had bad breath.

Raphael swears by TheraBreath

The one thing that got rid of my bad breath right away and let me think about the causes was a mouthwash called TheraBreath. Before that, I used Listerine and Odol and I wondered, what can a mouthwash really do for bad breath, but honestly, this TheraBreath stuff is really really good. This is 100% not sponsored, it’s just something that I learned from a friend and I want to pass it on to you because nothing makes you age as quickly as having bad breath. Take these tips to heart, and you’ll be able to look secure in your age while maintaining a youthful edge!

Are you guilty of these mistakes? How do you consider your age when dressing? Share with us in the comments!

When it comes to men’s dress shirts, one of the more popular brands on the market today is Charles Tyrwhitt. Today, they have an expanded range of offerings, including not just shirts, but suits, accessories, and more. So, what should you buy from them (and what might you want to avoid)?

This is the third installment of our “What To Buy From” series, following our coverage of American brands Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers. Be sure to have a look at those installments, as well!

History of the Charles Tyrwhitt Brand

Charles Tyrwhitt Ltd. is a British retailer that specializes in dress shirts–but they’ve expanded their range in recent years to include ties, suits and suit separates, casual wear, knitwear, shoes, and accessories. It was founded as a mail-order company in 1986 by Nicholas Wheeler (whose two middle names are, you guessed it, Charles Tyrwhitt) when he was a student at the University of Bristol. During his second year there he became increasingly critical of the way his fellow students dressed, saying “They needed a decent shirt,” and he decided he could fill that niche himself.

Spending about £300 on five thousand leaflets and a simple Amstrad word processor, he started the business. It began operations in a small space on Fulham Road in London before moving to the prestigious Jermyn Street in 1997.

Nicholas Wheeler founded the business by spending about £300 on five thousand leaflets and a simple Amstrad word processor.

Tyrwhitt is also well-known for its mail-order catalogs. In fact, this is how I first became aware of the company back in 2011 or so, and I liked what I saw enough to place an order–which was the first of many! Tyrwhitt’s production formerly took place exclusively in England. In recent years they’ve begun outsourcing some, but not all, production to other countries including India, Romania, and Peru.

Charles Tyrwhitt started its operation in Fulham Rd., London.

Still an active participant in the business, founder Nick Wheeler has a 95% stake in the company and has gone on record in interviews saying he’s got no intention to sell. As you might expect, he’s a menswear enthusiast himself. According to Wheeler, he once traveled the length of the island of Great Britain (from Land’s End to John O’Groats) on a bicycle in a pinstripe suit, dress shoes, and of course, a Tyrwhitt shirt. And, as a side note here, Wheeler’s wife Chrissie Rucker is the founder and owner of The White Company, which is a home furnishings retailer in Britain.

Charles Tyrwhitt Today

The current address for Tyrwhitt’s flagship store is 100 Jermyn Street. There are currently around 40 physical storefronts in locations including London, the greater U.K., Paris, New York and New Jersey, Washington D.C., Chicago, Houston, Philadelphia, and Massachusetts. Meanwhile, their online storefronts have sites dedicated to the U.K., Germany, France, The Netherlands, The U.S., Canada, and Australia.

Charles Tyrwhitt moved its flagship store to Jermyn Street in 1997.

The customer service center is currently based in London & Milton Keynes, England. Customer service is actually a point of pride for the company. Their online reviews are generally strong, they’ve received numerous awards in the past for customer service, and speaking from a personal perspective, I have nothing but positive experiences regarding those times where I’ve had to return or exchange orders. They also offer a no-questions-asked, 6-month guarantee regardless of a product’s condition. I haven’t taken advantage of this guarantee, but all of my Tyrwhitt orders have held up remarkably well (and some of them are almost ten years old at this point).

Charles Tyrwhitt is well-known for its excellent customer service.

Notable customers include former UK Prime Minister David Cameron, President of Rolls-Royce Motorcars North America David Archibald, and Lord Sugar–British business magnate and founder of the tech company Amstrad (the brand of computer that Nick Wheeler used when he was starting the business). With around 750 employees and over 1.5 million customers, the business has definitely grown since its beginnings. So, it’s no wonder that many of our commenters have been asking us to cover it in this series!

Our Experiences with Charles Tyrwhitt Menswear

Charles Tyrwhitt, to this day, is still most well-known for its range of shirts. Dress shirts are their cornerstone and are offered in a wider variety of fits than many retailers. Not only do they have a classic fit, but they also have slim, extra slim, and the relatively new “super slim.” When I first purchased from them back in 2011, I assumed that a slim fit would be relatively good for my thin frame. However, this was before I knew how to properly take my own measurements, and I’ve come to know that these slim-fit shirts are, in fact, much too big for me.

The construction of the shirts is of high enough quality, though, that I decided I could keep wearing them–and indeed, because I usually wear them below another layer these days, the fit isn’t so much of an immediately apparent issue. That said though, when I do make future purchases, I plan to experiment with their extra-slim and super-slim fit options. Their dress shirts all come with complimentary brass collar stays, so I have accumulated quite a small pile over the years.

Brass collar stays are included with every Charles Tyrwhitt dress shirt.

Tyrwhitt also offers casual shirts including short-sleeve button-ups, polos, and flannels. Rather than coming up with collar and cuff measurements, these shirts usually fall into the small-medium-large fit scheme. Again, speaking personally, I haven’t tried their polos yet but I do have one flannel shirt which again, is large, but fits comfortably, and a handful of short-sleeved button-ups. While we have mentioned in other posts that short-sleeved dress shirts aren’t a good choice for business wear, I’ll typically wear these shirts casually in the warmer months sometimes untucked or even with shorts, and I often prefer this lighter weight of shirt to something like a conventional polo.

Preston wearing his Charles Tyrwhitt short-sleeved dress shirt.

The other Tyrwhitt item currently in my collection is a wine-colored merino wool cardigan sweater. It’s quite comfortable and durable, with only the label tag having come loose. Rather than machine washing, I’ll usually just spritz with vodka (one of our favorite garment care techniques).

Preston wearing his wine-colored merino wool cardigan and dress shirt from Charles Tyrwhitt.

Overall, my experience with Charles Tyrwhitt has been very positive. They were my first foray into made-to-measure shirts, and everything I have ordered from them has held up pretty well. I’ve had to return a few items based on fit discrepancies, but this has always been a smooth process. And once, when a shipping box was so damaged in trans-Atlantic transit that some of the shirts were lost, working with the customer service team was a prompt and pleasant experience.

To go beyond my personal experiences for a more complete list of what to buy and what to avoid, we reached out to our Gentleman’s Gazette community on both YouTube and Facebook. With a sample size of about 250 responses, what follows is a compilation of the feedback we received.

What To Buy from Charles Tyrwhitt

Dress Shirts 

In the broad strokes, dress shirts were, perhaps unsurprisingly, the top favorite. The variety of styles and fit options, as well as the ability to modify collar size and shape, sleeve length, cuff style, and other details for a small fee, earned high marks. A number of commenters did echo my sentiments that all of their fits tend to run a bit large overall, so this is something to keep in mind.

Tyrwhitt shirts are a top favorite among our online community members.

In terms of quality, the consensus is that while not rising in the level of something from a bespoke shirtmaker or a traditional English or Italian atelier, Tyrwhitt shirts are comfortable, durable, and perfectly serviceable business wear. Of course, I would agree with this assessment. Given that Tyrwhitt is also well-known for its frequent multi-buy sales, the quality-to-price ratio is definitely high (and this is good for the budget-conscious, as many student commenters pointed out).

Ties and Accessories

Another favorite was Tyrwhitt’s range of ties in smooth silk or grenadine. Buyers seem to appreciate the quality of construction as well as the wide range of colors and patterns that are available. Other accessories including pocket squares, cufflinks, scarves, and even umbrellas also got high marks, overall.

Buyers are also in favor of their smooth ties and grenadines.

Knitwear

Another range in the yes category would be that of knitwear. Their sweaters–or jumpers, as the Brits would say–seem to be of high quality, as my wine-colored cardigan would suggest. Commenters praised not only cardigans, but also v-necks and turtlenecks as well.

Their knitwear is also a crowd favorite.

Overcoats & Odd Jackets

Commenters are also generally happy with Tyrwhitt’s overcoat offerings in various styles and as well as their odd jackets, including blazers and sport coats.

A sample sport coat from Charles Tyrwhitt, this one in gray flannel.

Black Tie & Morning Dress Offerings

Finally, here, a few responses also spoke positively of Black Tie offerings like tuxedos and dinner jackets, and we’d be remiss not to mention that Tyrwhitt does offer some morning dress options as well.

A morning dress ensemble from Charles Tyrwhitt.

Items To Consider (Mixed Reviews)

Next up, we’ll cover some items that received generally more mixed feedback from our review pool.

Suits

Some commenters had positive things to say, appreciating the variety of patterns and subtle details, like a double boutonniere loop on the backs of the left lapels. Others, however, found fabrics to be more of middling quality, fit a bit hard to nail down, and some other details to be more trouble than they’re worth, such as working cuff buttons on sleeves (as these make alterations more difficult). 

Their suits have mixed feedback from the commenters.

Shoes

Also in this category would be shoes. While some commenters have had good luck with Tyrwhitt’s shoes in terms of both comfort and durability, others have found their footwear offerings to be more middling. In particular, one detailed comment made note of the fact that casual shoes like boat shoes were relatively durable, but that one should pay attention to the country of origin when it comes to dress shoes. Those made in England–particularly in Northampton–are of high quality, but those made elsewhere, perhaps less so.

Tyrwhitt’s shoes, too, had some mixed reviews from the community.

What Not To Buy

Trousers

Finally, today, let’s cover the offerings that most of our commenters suggested to steer clear of: trousers. While a few commenters thought that less formal options like chinos and corduroys were of decent quality, most suggested that in terms of both inconsistent or unflattering sizing and lower quality materials, most ranges of Tyrwhitt trousers weren’t worth their price. At the time of this review, their only pleated offerings were formal morning trousers (and also, curiously, models with drawstrings) and commenters noted the lack of traditional high-waisted options.

Most of our review pool was not in favor of the trousers from Charles Tyrwhitt.

Conclusion

To reiterate, my personal experiences with Charles Tyrwhitt have been positive, and indeed, their shirts are among my most complimented menswear items. Still, we hope that our community survey has provided some additional insight on what to buy (and what not to buy) the next time you’re shopping with Charles Tyrwhitt.

What are your experiences with the Charles Tyrwhitt brand? Do you have any favorite pieces from them? Share with us in the comments!

Since the founding of our website over 10 years ago, classic men’s style has always been our forte–and classic style for women a hotly requested topic! So today, we’ll discuss the reasons why the two fields are so different, and why we haven’t (and most likely won’t) start a “Lady’s Gazette.”

One of the reasons we love classic men’s style is that it’s just that — classic. When referring to clothes, “classic” typically means a garment or design of an elegant style that is not greatly subject to changes in fashion. About three times a week we get asked if there is a Lady’s Gazette, why we haven’t started one, if we can point people in the right direction, and why we are not covering women’s topics in the first place. Unfortunately, we can’t and won’t venture to oblige to you. Here are our reasons why!

We can’t and we won’t be venturing into a “Lady’s Gazette.”

Reason #1: It’s Simply Not Our Area of Expertise

As a regular follower of the Gentleman’s Gazette, it probably won’t come as a surprise to you that we consider ourselves to be experts in classic men’s style. However, that shouldn’t suggest that we’re 100% clueless about women’s styles through time! In fact, it’s the knowledge we do have that’s convinced us that a Lady’s Gazette wouldn’t be the thing for us. 

We’re the Gentleman’s Gazette for this very reason: we’re advocates of classic menswear.

Women’s style, in terms of how it evolved, what materials are used, and how it fits is just an entirely different ball game compared to classic men’s style. Also, the further you go back in time, the less overlap there is between classic men’s and classic women’s garments. On top of that, the Gentleman’s Gazette was born because classic men’s clothing and style were my hobby and they became my passion. In my spare time, I would travel to see craftsmen such as tailors and shoemakers, simply to learn more about the garments and the items, as well as the craft.

Raphael often visits craftsmen and artisans as part of his work.

We believe there are far more qualified women and men out there who can speak on the subject of women’s clothing and style and I urge you to seek them out. That being said, do we know the equivalent website or channel to the Gentleman’s Gazette for women? Sadly, we don’t and we’ve never encountered one–but we’ll share a list of YouTubers that can point you in that direction towards the end of this post.

There are others far more qualified to discuss the subject of women’s clothing like this book –Ladies by Claudia Piras.

Classic style doesn’t really work in the same way for women…

Now that we’ve stated the main reason why we don’t cover classic style for women, let’s dig a little deeper. Frankly, my wife and business partner Teresa and I have gone over this question for years. Together, we’ve come to the conclusion that classic style simply doesn’t work for women in the way that it is for men and there are a few reasons why. Of course, Teresa and I collaborated on this post because we felt it was important to have the input of a woman who wears women’s attire and who wishes there were more classic items for women.

Sven Raphael Schneider with wife and business partner Teresa C. Schneider

To illustrate this point, let’s take a closer look at these two images of the fashion couple powerhouse from the 1980s and ’90s, Prince Charles and Princess Diana. Charles could wear the exact same ensembles today and not look dated in the slightest. On the other hand, the same cannot be said for Diana who was a fashion icon in her own right in her day. In no way do I mean this to reflect personally on either Charles or Diana, it’s just a really good point to show how differently women’s fashion and men’s fashion have evolved over the course of 30 years.

Prince Charles and the late Princess Diana

So, why is it that most people from today’s point of view would describe Charles’ outfits as “timeless” and Diana’s as “dated?” First of all, we believe it is because there is no foundational garment in a woman’s wardrobe today. Unlike in menswear where the suit has been a foundational garment for the better of a century, you do not have this clothing piece in women’s wardrobe today. You may argue that that’s not really true but if you look at, for example, a pair of jeans or khakis or a suit, they’re all very similar. For men, it typically consists of a pair of pants and a shirt and maybe a jacket.

Sven Raphael Schneider, in a seersucker suit and white brogues, knows that style knows no age

Most garments that men wear are just a variation on those three things. You might say, what about that dress? Yes, in the 1950s, the dress could have been considered as a foundational garment in a mainstream women’s wardrobe but that is no longer true because there are many women who would never think about wearing a dress or a skirt, for example.

Not a lot of women would wear a dress nowadays

So aren’t pants a foundational garment for women today? Actually, pants for women weren’t even really acknowledged until the 1930s. Of course, women have lots of choices. They can wear pants, rompers, skirts, dresses, shorts, jumpsuits, and many other things but none of those is foundational. Because of that, it’s difficult to say what is classic and what isn’t when there’s so much variety and certain fashion periods favor one over the other.

Reason #2: There Was No True “Golden Era” of Women’s Fashion

At least in my mind, unlike in classic men’s fashion, where maybe the 1920s and 1930s are considered by many to be the Golden Era, you don’t really have a comparably strong decade in women’s wear. Though just like in menswear, the modern era also started for women in the 1930s. As a result, women’s fashion today is often a mix of styles that appeared in the last 70 to 100 years.

The modern era for women’s clothing also started in the ’30s

To be fair, men’s fashion and trends are likewise often a composition or a mix of what has been around in about the same time frame. That being said, if you stay clear of the extremes in menswear, meaning you avoid five-button jackets with super wide or super skinny lapels, and you go with a medium-wide lapel and maybe two buttons, you’ll have something that won’t look dated throughout the decades.

Look dapper with these stylish and timeless outfits.

Reason #3: Women’s Trends Are More Extreme Than Men’s Trends

Because of that, women’s fashion that is more than 20 years old often looks more vintage or costume-y because they just went all in one direction and that, in turn, makes it much harder to come to the middle to find a classic look that can be worn throughout the decades. For example, if Teresa and I go to a vintage store, we can shop for clothes from the same era and hers will always look much more costume-y, vintage, and very specific to a time period compared to the stuff that I can find.

Midnight blue DB custom vintage 1930s tuxedo from a local consignment shop

So, why exactly is that the case? Well, first of all, I think women often wear patterns or certain colors on much larger surface areas. If maybe a floral print is popular in menswear, you can just find it on the tie, not in a suit whereas for women, they would have the pattern printed all over.  On top of that, concepts of fit for women have been much more extreme. Just think about the oversized look for women that you may sometimes saw in the ’90s or maybe the ’80s and that is really absent for men, except maybe looking at the zoot suit.

Florals on ties — subtle, yet standout.

Yes, men’s clothing has absolutely also undergone a certain transformation if you compare the Armani blazer from the 80s with the padded shoulders, the wider lapels, and the low gorge, and a jacket that was slightly longer to for example something in 2020 that is much shorter, cut trimmer, and with no shoulder padding–there’s certainly a variation that’s visible. Comparing it to women’s clothing where you go from super oversized pants to super skinny pants, it’s just a wider spectrum and because of that, it’s less timeless and therefore, not classic.

Corset

Furthermore, women’s clothing has mostly been designed to be less practical but more ornamental and it lends itself to just being more extreme. Just think about the corset, for example, or the bustle, or the 1950s flounced skirt.

Reason #4: Women Have A Broader Wardrobe Today

In the modern world, ladies have a much broader and more varied wardrobe than they used to. In the 1950s, men would wear suits to the office and women would wear dresses or skirt sets. 

Suits were staple officewear for men for most of the 20th century.

Today, anyone can wear anything but unlike men, women’s clothing options have expanded dramatically in the sense of what garments women can wear and combine according to mainstream culture. Many of those garments originally stem from the menswear realm, just think about the biker or motorcycle jacket, work boots, or a blazer.

Teresa sporting a Marlene Dietrich-inspired white tie ensemble

However, the crossover in the direction from the women’s world to the men’s world is very limited now. This means that in conventional terms, women have a much broader spectrum to pick from which makes it much harder to pick a classic because trends are generally more short-lived.

Reason #5: Womenswear Garments Tend Not To Last Long

Last but not least, the average quality in women’s wear is much lower than menswear which makes it much more difficult to find a garment that will actually be able to physically stand the test of time. No matter if you look at a cashmere sweater, a pair of socks, or jeans, generally, the quality level in women’s wear is much lower.

A fabric with poor quality.

So, what does “low quality” mean in this context? Well, first of all, it starts with the fabrics. Oftentimes, women’s fabrics are all polyester or nylon and if you find wool or cotton or cashmere which is something that you typically find more in menswear, then they’re heavily blended. These two materials simply pill more easily and they attract stains to remain more permanent in the garment and just age more poorly which is a reason why you simply don’t want to wear them for that long.

Many garments produced for women today are made from synthetics like polyester

That then begs the question: why is the quality in women’s wear so much lower than in menswear on average? Well, it has to do with the expectations and how long it will be worn. Traditionally, there was a fall-winter season and the spring-summer season. Well now, we also have resort season and pre-fall season and things turn around much more quickly, and with the advance of fast fashion, there is an interest to produce less expensive garments that can be worn once or twice and then thrown away or donated.

This spring/summer ensemble will surely stand the test of time.

With consumers being happy that they have to pay less for garments than they had to 40 years ago and the ever-changing seasons, there’s simply no reason for manufacturers to invest in quality anymore. At the Gentleman’s Gazette, though, we’ve always been very focused on high-quality items because the classic style in itself requires you to have a high-quality garment because a blazer or a suit with a really nice silhouette that pills and are not colorfast isn’t really a great option.

$20scarf from Target vs $200 Fort Belvedere scarf

So, in our opinion, these are the reasons why classic style for women doesn’t really work for better or for worse. That’s also the reason why we have zero intentions to create a Lady’s Gazette. We stay in our lane and focus on classic gentlemen’s style and lifestyle.

Raphael looking dapper with a timeless ensemble

Classic Women’s Style Resources

I want to acknowledge that, again, we are not experts in the realm of women’s style or classic women’s style and that there are better places to look for information on the matter.

Women’s Style Channels

If you’re interested in vintage women’s fashion and fashion history, check out the channel of Karolina Zebrowska.

Karolina Zebrowska

If you’re more interested in foundational topics such as styling, combining, recognizing quality or fashion history, check out the channel of the French fashion designer Justine Leconte. To my knowledge, French fashion is often considered to be more effortless and therefore classic and so, Justine’s take is particularly valuable if you’re more interested in quality and the classic side of things.

Justine Leconte

If you want to be inspired as a woman and know how you can incorporate classic men’s clothes into your wardrobe, I suggest you check out Sonya Glyn from Sartorial Talks. She does a fantastic job of wearing classic men’s suits but with a very feminine note that really suits her style.

Sonya Glyn of Sartorial Talks

Other great channels we’ve found (including some suggested to us by viewers!) include those of Audrey Coyne, Alyssa Beltempo, and Marie-Anne Lecoeur.

Ladies, a book by Claudia Piras & Bernhard Roetzel

There is also a book about classic style for women called Ladies, authored by Claudia Piras and Bernhard Roetzel who himself is well known for writing the book Gentleman. If you look at the original editions, they very much look alike. The content is very similar but the Gentleman’s version has been translated into many languages and has been republished in many different editions, whereas the Ladies’ version is still from 2003. In this book, some things may look a bit dated today, but there may be a thing or two that works for you and that you would enjoy.

Left: Ladies by Claudia Piras and Bernhard Roetzel; Right: Gentleman by Bernhard Roetzel

So, these are our reasons for not covering classic women’s style, and why you most likely won’t be seeing a “Lady’s Gazette” from us. Still, if someone else is up to the challenge, we’ll be the first to support them!

What are your thoughts on the concept of “classic women’s style?” Let us know in the comments!

When it comes to the topic of men’s style on film, the spy genre seems to have something of a corner on the market (as evidenced by the James Bond franchise). In recent years, the new kid on the block has been the Kingsman series–and today, we’ll analyze what its first film, Kingsman: The Secret Service (from 2014) gets right and wrong about classic men’s style.

Based on Mark Millar and Dave Gibbons’ comic book series of the same name, and directed by Matthew Vaughn, the Kingsman series has had two films released so far. A prequel is coming up next and a third film in the main series also in development. On the surface, these films seem to be right up the alley of a classic menswear enthusiast, with sharp suits, black-tie ensembles, and more. The cover for the Kingsman organization is even a tailor shop on Savile Row! But how close do these movies actually hew to the tenets of classic men’s style?

The Kingsman HQ, fronting as a tailor shop on Savile Row

A Style Review of Kingsman: The Secret Service

Let’s begin our analysis by breaking down the individual styles of the film’s key characters.

Harry Hart/Galahad

Colin Firth’s character, Harry Hart, is also known by his Kingsman codename “Galahad.” He typically wears traditionally English-styled suits in terms of their cut and structure. They’re double-breasted in a six-on-two style, in traditional colors and patterns. His signature suit seems to be navy with white pinstripes though we also see Glen checks at other points in the film. His shirts are almost always plain white and they usually have a semi-spread collar and French cuffs, into which oval-shaped gold cufflinks with the Kingsman insignia are inserted.

Harry Hart in a navy suit with white pinstripes

Like many of the Kingsman agents, he favors repp-striped ties; usually, these are in blue with accents in pink and brown. Going by the related clothing collection from the film that was released by Mr. Porter, his ties are in a cotton silk-blend and a faille weave. When not wearing a repp tie, he usually favors a pin-dot pattern.

Harry’s signature attire, as realized by the clothing line from Mr. Porter

His other accessories include a plain white pocket square (presumably in linen) in a straight TV fold, a gold watch with a brown leather band, and a gold signet ring. His rectangular framed glasses are standard-issue for Kingsman agents, as are the watch and the ring, along with other gadgets including a pen, umbrella, and cigarette lighter. His shoes of choice which, again, are standard for most Kingsman agents, are black cap-toe oxfords–but we’ll revisit the concept of shoes in a little while.

Harry wearing a cream-colored cardigan sweater and gray flannel trousers

Other outfits seen in the first film from Harry Hart include a blue velvet dinner jacket with black satin lapels, a white silk pocket square, and black velvet bow tie, tartan trousers, and black patent oxfords with a white plain front tuxedo shirt. We also see a red dressing gown with a curious almost ulster-like collar, white pajamas with edge-stitching, and velvet slippers with the Kingsman crest. Another outfit includes a white shirt, cream-colored cardigan sweater, and gray flannel trousers.

Overall, Harry’s style is generally well done. There are a few details that are less commendable, however. His jacket sleeves are long enough that he often shows little-to-no shirt cuff, he pairs a brown watch band with black shoes, and when in his black-tie ensemble, he appears to have skipped a waist covering.

Don’t forget the waist covering! Check out this Cummerbund in Black Silk Satin by Fort Belvedere

Gary “Eggsy” Unwin

Next, we’ll discuss the new recruit and second main character of the film, Gary Unwin, called “Eggsy,” played by Taron Egerton. Through most of the film, Eggsy is seen in a variety of street-style ensembles, with things like striped polo shirts, bomber jackets, ball caps, jeans, sneakers, and bracelets. Even when going on a training mission with the Kingsman in a slightly more formal environment, he still keeps with this casual mode of dressing. Seen in a hoodie with a loud graphical motif, a white cap, black-and-gold polo, high-top shoes, and a gold necklace.

Eggsy looking casual in his hoodie and baseball cap

In the final scenes of the film, though, when Eggsy has fully embraced his role as a Kingsman, he adopts Galahad’s signature suit style: navy with white pinstripes and repp tie, though tied at first in a looser full Windsor knot that’s larger and bolder than what Colin Firth’s character typically wore throughout the film.

Eggsy in a full Kingsman ensemble towards the end of the film

Eggsy does, then, show a progression from casual to formal ensembles in this movie–but we’ll discuss this in greater depth when we cover the sequel, so stay tuned for another post coming soon!

The Remaining Kingsman Agents

On top of the main characters, though, there are other important characters or particularly stylish outfits seen in the first film, which we’ll cover next.

Arthur

Michael Caine’s Arthur also wears a double-breasted suit in a slightly softer flannel with an orange overcheck and an edged pocket square, and is shown wearing a grey scarf at another point in the film. His favorite tie throughout the film is a pink one with a black stripe for an accent. Another outfit consists of a pink shirt, mid-grey suit with a tan-and-black overcheck, blue pocket square edged in white, and some simple gold cufflinks.

Arthur in a double-breasted suit and his favorite pink tie with black stripe accent.

Merlin

Over the course of the film, Mark Strong’s Merlin character is usually seen in understated and slightly less formal neutral colors. He’ll wear things like v-neck sweaters and cardigans, solid ties, and of course, clubmaster glasses. Toward the end of the film, he’s also seen in a blazer, but this, of course, is part of a more traditional pilot’s uniform.

Merlin in his usual attire

Lancelot

The first Kingsman we see to bear the codename Lancelot, played by Jack Davenport, shows up early in the film wearing a particularly stylish outfit of a tattersall shirt, green solid tie, olive three-piece suit with an overcheck, a red pocket square, and some brown shoes.

Lancelot with a very stylish ensemble.

Potential Kingsman Recruits

When we first see the other potential recruits for the Kingsman program, they’re all wearing slightly different outfits, but we thought we’d give a brief mention of them here. Most of them consist of looks that generally fall within the Prep, Ivy, and Trad schools featuring things like repp ties, blazers, and sport coats with odd trousers, chukka boots, quarter-zip sweaters, some jeans, and also horse-bit loafers.

The Kingsman potential recruits.

To give a nod to the female characters in the film: Amelia wears a bit more of a modern style, whereas Roxy’s first outfit is contemporary, though it does also seem to draw a bit from the tradition of British riding attire. 

The two women from the potential recruits: Amelia, (left) in a more modern style, and Roxy, (right) in a contemporary outfit.

Once the recruits are out of their normal clothes, they’re all put into jumpsuits that do have traditional menswear patterns worn over white oxford cloth button-down shirts.

Eggsy looking stylish even in a jumpsuit.

The character of Charlie, something of an antagonist for Eggsy, is shown to be a bit flashier in his style, wearing the aforementioned horse-bit loafers as well as an Hermes belt when we first see him. Later elements for Charlie throughout the film include things like a red velvet dinner jacket with a contrasting lapel, and white shirt red socks, and an ensemble with a navy blazer and loud yellow trousers.

Charlie wearing a red velvet dinner jacket on a recruitment mission

Looks of Other Characters: Valentine & More

Richmond Valentine

Turning more to casual wear, let’s discuss the style of the first film’s villain: Richmond Valentine, played by Samuel L. Jackson. Throughout most of the film, he wears a variety of outfits consisting of matching polos and baseball caps layered with shirts and other outerwear, high tops, lots of leather, and suede. Two outfits we can single out:a shirt and hat in plum color, a brown corduroy suit, brown and gray cardigan sweater, and a necklace, pictured here.

Valentine in a plum shirt and hat, and a brown corduroy suit

Another would be his first in the film, consisting of what appears to be a yellow oxford cloth button-down shirt, yellow v-neck sweater, parka white Yankees cap, chinos, snow boots, and his signature clear-framed eyeglasses. A notable departure from this character’s standard looks is when we see him in the Kingsman tailoring shop at which point, he’s put on a morning-dress ensemble. This outfit features a slipped waistcoat in buff color, a blue tie, and a Winchester shirt and a black top hat from Lock & Co., as well as black oxford shoes.

We also see Valentine in a morning dress ensemble towards the end of the film

Professor Arnold

Mark Hamill’s Professor Arnold is seen in what would be considered more typical country wear, with a greater emphasis on textures and earthier colors. The first of his two outfits in the film consists of a brown corduroy jacket, micro pattern bow tie, corduroys, a Prince of Wales pattern shirt, herringbone cardigan, and some boots. The second outfit features a darker brown corduroy jacket, Fair Isle vest, white shirt, chinos, and brown shoes.

Professor Arnold sporting a brown corduroy jacket, Fair Isle vest, white shirt, and chinos.

Swedish Prime Minister

Another character to cover here is Bjørn Floberg’s Swedish Prime Minister, who dresses more like a typical politician or government figure might be expected to. Outfits he’s seen in throughout the film include a solid navy blue suit, white shirt, and light blue solid tie; a black suit and grey tie; and a charcoal suit with a red tie and blue shirt. Meanwhile, his guards also wear fairly typical ensembles of black suits, white shirts, and striped ties.

Swedish Prime Minister from the film sporting a solid navy blue suit, white shirt, and a light blue solid tie.

Interrogator

The character known as the “Interrogator,” played by Richard Brake, is seen in two different ensembles in the film. The first consists of a white shawl-collared dinner jacket with pick stitching, a white shirt, and a black silk tie, and the second shows a black Nehru jacket.

The interrogator in a white shawl-collared dinner jacket.

Eggsy’s Stepfather

Eggsy’s stepfather, Dean Baker (played by Geoff Bell) typically dresses fairly informally, but one outfit we see him in toward the end of the film is a bit more stylish. It consists of a navy Harrington jacket, red pin-dot day ascot, a patterned panel cap, and some leather boots.

Eggsy’s stepfather dean wearing a navy Harington jacket.

Other Characters

Working-class characters are also depicted fairly realistically in the film. Examples of this would include Ralph Ineson’s policeman character, who wears a gray sharkskin suit with a 1990s style shirt-and-tie combo and an overall baggy fit. He does have a slightly more modern overcoat, however.

The policeman from the film in a gray sharkskin suit.

Finally, we’ll mention Corey Johnson’s pastor character, who wears an ensemble of a poorly fitting gray suit, mustard yellow shirt, and a fairly ugly paisley tie.

The pastor from the film in a hideous ensemble.

Our Thoughts On The Film’s Menswear Styles

In general, costume designer Ariane Phillips seems to have had fun designing the various looks for each of the characters. There are many interesting outfits for menswear enthusiasts to look at in this film. However, the devil is in the details, and for those with a truly exacting eye, some of these smaller points will seem a bit more sloppy.

Ariane Phillips, costume designer of the Kingsman film.

As a case in point here, we’ll look at one of the first film’s most well-known quotes: “Oxfords, not brogues.” When giving Eggsy a tour of the various Kingsman gadgets, Galahad tells him that oxfords are “any formal shoe with open lacing.” However, this is actually incorrect, as oxfords have closed lacing, which defines them as such. Meanwhile, derby shoes have an open lacing style. If you’d like to learn more about the difference between oxfords, derbies, and bluchers, our guide has you covered!

Oxfords, not Brogues?

Galahad makes a further error by classifying brogues as being mutually exclusive from oxfords. In fact, broguing is just any decorative detail of hole punching on a shoe, and it can be found on any shoe style, be that oxfords, derbies, or bluchers.

A cognac wingtip derby shoe with broguing versus a simple black cap toe oxford, both from Ace Marks

So overall, the style of the first Kingsman film isn’t bad, but it’s not quite as perfect as its well-tailored spy characters would like you to believe.

Is Kingsman: The Secret Service a Good Watch, Overall?

Setting aside the specific issue of the wardrobe choices for a moment, what do we think about the film itself? Speaking personally, I can say that I did find it enjoyable to watch, not only for the wardrobe but also for the plot itself. Of course, the film does have an R rating for its gratuitous action, violence, gore, and occasional crude humor and subject matter.

Harry Hart in a gray suit, white shirt, and navy tie with white polka dots and Eggsy, wearing a polo shirt, baseball cap, and a hoodie jacket with a graphical pattern

In other words, it’s not necessarily gentlemanly on all fronts, should that impact your desire to see it. Still, it does approach the world of menswear and the gentleman’s lifestyle overall with what could be characterized as an aspirational or appreciative tone. For that, we can give it praise. There are several worthwhile quotes from the film that exemplify this, including:

• “Manners maketh man.”
• “The suit is a modern gentleman’s armor.”
• “Being a gentleman has nothing to do with the circumstances of one’s birth. Being a gentleman is something one learns.”
• “Being a gentleman has nothing to do with one’s accent, it’s about being at ease in one’s own skin.”

One of the famous scenes in the film where Harry and later, Eggsy, taught the thugs a lesson: “manners maketh man.”

They also feature a quote from the author Ernest Hemingway: “There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man, true nobility is being superior to your former self.” These are certainly sentiments that, in the broad strokes, we can get behind. They dovetail nicely with guides we’ve produced in the past about What It Means To Be A Gentleman Today, as well as Lies That Men Are Sold by modern society. They also touch on other gentlemanly topics, like proper table manners and how to mix cocktails. 

Proper table manners were also discussed in the film.

Overall, then, if the Kingsman films serve as an entry point into the world of classic menswear for young men, action film fans, or anyone else, we see this as a good thing. Just remember that their menswear advice shouldn’t be followed as strictly as the mission briefing of a super spy!

What do you think of the menswear styles in Kingsman: The Secret Service? Share with us in the comments!