While dress shoes and jeans are on opposite sides of the formality scale, they can actually be paired together in a number of different varieties of stylish outfits–so long as a few key criteria are kept in mind. Here’s our guide to wearing them well!

You may be unsure of how to properly style yourself when wearing dress shoes and jeans, but it is more than possible to pull off wearing them together while maintaining some personality and a sense of professionalism. However, simply choosing any dress shoes with any jeans you might happen to have in your closet won’t work. There are a few key things to look out for to make sure that your end result looks clean-cut and effortless.

Raphael looking dapper in these sport coats, denim jeans, and dress shoes ensemble.

Jeans: Choose The Right Style, Fit & Color

Correct Style

The style of the jeans that we’re going to be looking for are clean-cut, timeless, preferably in a dark wash. A few dress shoes to consider wearing with these jeans would be derbies, monk straps, loafers, or even brogues. Desert boots or chukka boots could also be considered for more casual occasions. 

Don’t just pick any jeans or dress shoes, choose a style that complements your entire outfit.

Correct Fit

First and foremost, the jeans should properly fit the wearer’s body type. Learn what jeans flatter you best by checking our guide here.

Wear jeans that fit.

Correct Color

The goal is to make sure that the colors of the shoes and jeans that you choose don’t detract from the rest of your outfit. We really want to make sure that the color of both the dress shoes and the jeans will complement one another so it’s very important to select a very versatile color of the shoe and very neutral or dark color in your jeans.

A shoe with a versatile color complements a neutral or dark washed jeans.

Style, Fit & Color Mistakes for Denim & Dress Shoes

Inconsistent Style

Regarding style, the incorrect way to go about doing this would be to wear jeans that are inconsistent with the style of your shoes. For example, wearing jeans in a modern style but dress shoes that happen to look much more classic. This causes an onlooker to believe that some elements of your outfit might have been an afterthought, as the styles do not complement one another.

A modern style of jeans will not go well with a pair of dress shoes.

You really want to avoid jeans that are distressed and highly embellished. Jeans that have overtly large pockets or even pocket details. Also, try to avoid jeans that have very large pronounced contrast stitching. It might seem obvious but we also really want to avoid wearing patent leather evening dress shoes or even some kind of a hybrid shoe. These are pretty popular right now but this will detract from the rest of the outfit. 

Be sure to avoid patent leather evening dress shoes, it won’t go well with your jeans.

Incorrect Fit

It’s important to avoid ill-fitting and flattering jeans that are either too loose or far too tight. Wearing jeans that are too short or far too long is also incorrect. You should also avoid jeans that are going to sit too low on your waistline. This will become an issue when you start tucking in your shirt and wearing a belt. If you’re not wearing a sport coat or a sweater to cover your waistline, you might notice that your untucked shirt might become exposed rather quickly. 

Wearing a pair of jeans with the correct fit will give you confidence and comfort.

Incorrect Color

Try to avoid jeans and non-neutral colors with a lot of fading or whiskering over the thigh and/or seat area. It’s very important to stay consistent with the general style of your outfit. If you don’t, certain elements of your outfit will stand out for all the wrong reasons. We want to make sure that you remain as the focus. The clothing is here to compliment you, not absorb all the attention.

Pick a nice pair of dark washed denim jeans to go well with your dress shoes.

Common Misconceptions of the Dress Shirt & Jeans Combination

Myth #1: Dress shoes work with and elevate any jeans.

Wearing any style of jeans in and outfit and just elevate its style with a pair of dress shoes would not work. In fact, this is not accurate. Just because a pair of shoes is listed as dress shoes doesn’t indicate that they should be worn with that particular outfit and in the same way, not all jeans will work for all situations, personalities, or body types.

Not all dress shoes go well with any pair of jeans; be sure to pick a pair that will complement one another.

Do your best to stay away from boot cut jeans and instead, look for a pair that is as tapered as your body type will allow. The lack of excess fabric found in your jeans will in fact give your outfit a very clean finish unless however, you are a very muscular man with larger legs in which case you may need to look for a more regular fit.

A pair of jeans with the correct fit will complement your dress shoes.

Myth #2: You should wear short and narrow jeans (like a hipster) to look stylish.

As mentioned earlier, a slim fit is ideal but in fact, you should only wear things as slim as your body type will allow. Don’t follow trends, but pay attention to what is really flattering for your physique.

Choose a pair of jeans that will flatter your physique rather than following what’s on the trend.

Myth #3: Shoes that look like dress shoes will always work.

Actually, it’s very important that you invest in as good of a pair of dress shoes as you can afford as opposed to getting faux leather or plastic looking shoes that might be coming from a fast-fashion brand. A majority of your outfit with jeans may lean more casual, so wearing good quality leather shoes will help raise the standard of your entire outfit.

Invest in a good pair of dress shoes rather than settling with faux leather or a plastic-looking pair.

Outfit Ideas for Dress Shoes & Jeans

1. Sport Coat and Dress Shirt

This is one of the most popular combinations men wear. If you have proper fitting sport coat options at your disposal, this outfit will be fairly simple to put together. The key here is to make sure that the color selection is accurate and that the patterns, whether that be found in your shirt your pocket square, or your jacket are complementing one another and not competing.

Look dapper with a combination of a well-fitted sports coat, neutral shirt, a pair of denim jeans, and a pair of dress shoes.

2. Turtleneck and Sport Coat

This outfit is also fairly simple to pull off but is best suited for a colder season. If you currently don’t own any turtlenecks, I would recommend that you start looking for some in neutral colors in either merino wool or a cashmere blend. Try to find some that are also not too bulky because it’s important to maintain some sense of freedom of movement underneath your sport coat. 

Best for a colder season; be sure to pick a turtleneck that’s not too bulky.

3. Sweater and Dress Shirt

The dark wash jeans you’re wearing are going to pair nicely with a variety of different sweater colors. The simplest way to pull off this outfit is to start out with solid colored sweaters. This is going to look great over both pattern or solid colored shirts. Try to steer clear of sweaters that are too bulky. If you don’t plan on wearing a sport coat with this outfit, try looking for a shawl-collared sweater as well.

Avoid sweaters that are too bulky for a clean, casual look.

Bonus Tips

Here a few extra tips to make sure that your experience wearing jeans with your dress shoes goes off without a hitch.

1. Don’t Go Sockless

The noses of the entire world will thank you, but seriously, without the ability to breathe your feet will begin to smell and sweat and can possibly ruin the interior of your shoes. It’s not a good thing. At the very least, throw on a pair of no-show socks and keep your sweaty feet at bay. 

Use a pair of no-show socks instead of going sockless — your shoes and the whole world will thank you for it.

2. Don’t Wear A Solid Black or White Socks

The white socks will look quite distracting and almost as though they are missing their sneaker counterparts while wearing black socks might look too formal or dressy with this outfit with jeans. Instead, start by looking for a unique color and or pattern to add some life to your ankles. For some great sock options, check out the Fort Belvedere shop here.

Don’t just settle for solid black or white socks; wear something with a bit of contrast like these Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks from Fort Belvedere.

3. Try To Add Some Contrast

It’s important to remember that a little contrast can actually go a long way. With your dress shoes, it’s best to opt for a shade of brown as that’s going to offer you the most versatility. When it comes to other shoe colors, you can consider blue, gray, and many others but a shade of brown will offer you the most options.

A pair of dress shoes with a versatile color like a shade of brown will give you a lot of outfit options.

4. Accessorize Your Outfit

To add more personality into your dress shoes and jeans outfit combination, you can always add a classic watch, a signet ring, a pocket square, or even a signature scent.

Don’t forget to accessorize your outfit! (White Linen Pocket Square with Handrolled Edges from Fort Belvedere)

Conclusion

Even though many believe they don’t dit well together, you can absolutely wear dress shoes with your jeans. However, there are some things to avoid to make sure that your entire outfit looks effortless and timeless. Also, remember that not all dress shoes are going to look good with all jeans. The dress shoes should complement and not compete with the rest of your outfit.

Would you wear dress shoes and jeans in a single outfit? Is it a stylish pairing overall? Let us know your thoughts in the comments section!

The influence that Italy has had on classic menswear is evident from the soft shoulders of summer sport coats to the Milanese buttonhole on high-end suits. Such is also apparent in terms used by menswear enthusiasts, such as sprezzatura and spezzato, which we’ve both covered in previous posts. Today, we’ll add another Italian S words to our menswear vocabulary, scorpacciata.

What is Scorpacciata?

This term typically refers to a sort of seasonal indulgence. In particular, the celebration of food that happens to be in season at any given time. For example, in Italy, chestnuts are harvested in late October, and around this time, many villages and towns will have a festival or Sagra to celebrate it. The chestnuts are often served roasted in paper cones or ground into flour and turned into cake, studded with pine nuts or crepes filled with sweet ricotta cheese. Everyone will indulge in this great seasonal bounty, and then, with the season, it ends.

Lino displaying sprezzatura – sunglasses, open shirt cuffs, wristbands, ring, sunglasses, cigarette, jacket on the shoulders, sleeve cuffs undone

The same goes for things like olives, grapes, asparagus, or strawberries. They can also be bought out of season in supermarkets, but people will try to avoid this, and there isn’t really the same sense of indulging in the food and digging in with gusto as there is when things are in peak season. But of course, with a few exceptions, we’re not really experts in food.

Raphael Employing Colorful Spezzato with a Suit Jacket and Matching Vest with Contrasting Yellow Pants and Brown Oxfords (Madder Silk Tie and Linen Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere)

How does Scorpacciata relate to clothing?

Essentially, scorpacciata in menswear means really savoring different types of clothes that are especially appropriate for a given season. Now, for those who are new to menswear or who don’t really care much about style, the ideal garment is probably going to be the all-season suit. 

These suits are typically made of mid-weight worsted wool and can be purchased and then worn all year-long indiscriminately. And for the especially casual, a pair of something like denim jeans might fall into the same category. You can wear them year-round, and they’re versatile enough to pair with almost any casual outfit so you don’t have to think about introducing a lot of variety. However, anyone who is seasonally inclined will relish the chance to wear different things in the winter, spring, summer, and fall seasons.

Raphael looking dapper in these sport coats, denim jeans, and dress shoes ensemble.

When the weather starts getting cool, a menswear aficionado might look forward to wearing flannels and tweed sport coats with cashmere ties in the same way that a foodie looks forward to white truffle season.

Conversely, when the weather warms up, he then gets excited about the opportunity to wear linen, loafers, and Panama hats again. This is reflected in his wardrobe as he’ll have collections of clothes for the warm season and the cold season as well as a number of transitional pieces that can be worn equally well when things are in between.

Linens and Panama hats are best for the warmer months.

Main Appeals to Scorpacciata

1. It’s Temporary

Because each season has a start and an end, you find the limited time in which you can wear certain garments well to be more precious and thus you can relish wearing certain garments for a few months at a time and then put them away until next year.

You can store your garments after the season and wear them again next year.

2. Garments Stay In A Cycle

On the opposite side of this coin though, another big appeal to the concept is that even though things are temporary, they’re in a rigid cycle. So, even though you have to appreciate wearing certain garments in a given season, when you put them away, you can look forward to that same season next year as well and get the same sense of renewed pleasure year after year and season after season.

Use cotton garment bags to protect off-season clothing

What Seasonality In Menswear Isn’t

We should point out here that dressing for the season doesn’t mean following fashions in this context. Oftentimes, when we hear the phrase dressing for the season we think of the latest fashions that might have come down runways but this is really something more within the realm of cutting-edge or high-fashion, which is somewhat opposite to the more classically based world of menswear.

Dressing for the season doesn’t always mean following the latest trends, rather, it’s dressing accurately for the season.

So, you can still follow the philosophy of scorpacciata without following what’s in, in any given year. The key is remembering that you’re dressing for any summer or any winter and not being dictated by fashion houses trying to sell you the latest trends.

Seasonality At Different Times of The Year

1. Warm Weather

Dressing for the spring and summer months means a focus on staying cool and having maximum air circulation with your outfits. This would involve things like changing the fabrics you’re going to wear to high twist or tropical wools, frescos, and linens for pants, as well as for jackets. Warm weather typically calls for brighter colors, too. So, you might put more of an emphasis on wearing white like white pants or a white dinner jacket, for example, or go for things like brighter blues and put away your dark navies.

Bright colors, linen sport coats, and Panama hats are perfect for spring and summer months.

It also means being more casual. This is the time to abandon neckwear and open up your shirt collar. Instead of wearing a full suit, you could wear a combination of a sport coat or blazer with odd trousers, and instead of a conventional button-up, you could opt for a polo shirt.

Raphael wearing 3 summer outfit variations

2. Cold Weather

For cold-weather dressing, your priorities are just the opposite–staying warm and often staying dry in the autumn and winter months. Seasonality here is perhaps a little bit more pronounced, and everybody is probably going to do it; things like putting on boots or an overcoat or gloves when it’s cold out.

In addition to the gloves, this winter ensemble is further accented by a patterned scarf

However, there are also more subtle changes to incorporate into your wardrobe that the connoisseur of scorpacciata will appreciate. The colder seasons are your time to master the art of layering with things like sweaters and vests. And of course, winter is great for textures as well. Anything that looks particularly woolly is fair game.

There’s no need to rely on the standard all-season printed silk tie or super 110s worsted wool suit. You could try a flannel suit or a tweed jacket and a cashmere tie instead. 

Sven Raphael Schneider in windowpane flannel suit with Paisley Madder Silk Tie and Suede gloves

Dressing for Months Within The Seasons

For the true expert, there are also degrees of difference within a particular season. For example, in late May, you might wear a navy blue wool and linen blend sport coat, but on a hot sunny day in August, this would seem dark and uncomfortable, so that you might opt for a cream linen sport coat instead.

You can opt for an off-white sport coat on a hot, sunny day in August.  (Madder Silk Tie and Dark Green Silk Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere)

In May, you could wear a jacket with a lining, but in the dog days of August, you’re probably going to want to go for an unlined jacket that has an open weave.

You could wear a knitted vest under a suit in December, but in February, you could go for a cardigan sweater with sleeves.

An unlined jacket is also an option for the dog days of August.

Conclusion

The true beauty of scorpacciata is not only getting variation between seasons but also within seasons. So, we hope that alongside sprezzatura and spezzato, scorpacciata is a great addition to your menswear lexicon. Ultimately, just like dressing for any given occasion, dressing for the season is about looking correct in your surroundings.

Scorpacciata is about dressing specifically for a season. (Shantung tie, gloves, boutonniere, bow tie, and pocket squares all from Fort Belvedere)

Even though the old fashioned rule of not wearing white after Labor Day doesn’t have to be observed anymore, wearing white linen in the winter or, for that matter, wearing a charcoal three-piece suit in August is something ultimately akin to eating watermelon in January. You can do it, but if you adopt a bit more patience, you can savor the given seasonality of things just a bit more. Whenever someone happens to compliment your flannels in the winter or linen in the summer, remember to spread the word and tell them all about the joys of scorpacciata.

Is seasonal fashion something you enjoy? Would you (or would you not) practice scorpaciatta? Let us know in the comments!

With the transition from summer to fall, it makes sense to switch up your wardrobe so you’re more in line with your environment, especially in terms of color. While many dread the colder months of the year, the clotheshorse looks forward to it, because it allows him to add more layers into his outfits–and this includes pocket squares!

Almost everyone will change from shoes to boots and upgrade their pants to heavier and denser fabrics, but most don’t think about fall-winter accessories very much, and especially not pocket squares. While a pocket square is just a small piece of fabric, it helps significantly to transition your entire wardrobe to the fall-winter season.

Raphael in winter, wearing a Donegal tweed overcoat, fedora hat, mustard yellow scarf, and burgundy dress gloves from Fort Belvedere.

It also provides the illusion that you have a lot more outfits than you actually do (without having to buy new jackets, pants, and boots). All you need is a nice selection of pocket squares or smaller accessories that are fall-winter appropriate. Best of all, pocket squares are versatile, they cost a whole lot less than a full outfit, and you can keep them for years to come; thus, saving you money in the long run.

Dark Green Silk Pocket Square with Orange Dots Motifs and Blue Paisley – Fort Belvedere

What is a “Fall-Winter” Pocket Square?

Typically, it’s a handkerchief made of heavier, denser material (usually in wool or wool-silk blends, or maybe cashmere). The texture of these fabrics is a little fuzzier than that of smooth silk. They also have less sheen than traditional printed silk pocket squares, and the colors are more subdued. While summer pocket squares typically have whites and light pastel tones of color, such as purpl, light green, or orange, the winter colors are darker, richer, and warmer. A versatile fall-winter pocket square typically contains four or more colors, allowing you to combine it with a broader range of items in your existing wardrobe.

Silk Pocket Square in Brown with Blue Paisley – Fort Belvedere

A pattern such as paisley or a polka dot can further help you in creating something that stands out from the rest of your outfit while still providing a unique character. And if you add a contrasting colored shoestring edge to the pocket square, or perhaps elements of a solid border, you get a three-in-one pocket square allowing you to get different looks all from the same piece of fabric.

Brown Madder Silk Pocket Square with Turquoise, Green, Brown Large Paisley- Fort Belvedere

Qualities To Look For In Fall-Winter Pocket Squares

1. The Right Materials

First of all, make sure you get the right materials. Most standard pocket squares are made of solid linen and/or shinier formal silk. The fall-winter season allows you to experiment a little more and get something that’s a bit more casual. That material choice is always advantageous, because it combines more easily with the richer color scheme and textures of things like tweed or flannel.

Most standard pocket squares are made of linen or shinier, formal silk. (linen pocket squares from Fort Belvedere)

While pocket squares don’t really provide any practical warmth, just the soft look and fuzzy texture make people associate them more with the colder months of the year. For example, white linen pocket squares are perfect for a Black Tie event, or for the office when combined with a white shirt, but they look too stark in contrast with a brown tweed jacket. 

Black Bow Tie in Silk Satin Sized Butterfly Self Tie with Red Carnation Boutonniere and Classic White Irish Linen Pocket Square.

So instead of white, what type of shirt should you wear with a brown tweed jacket? Well, a pale yellow or off-white, or maybe a light blue, are much better; those colors are part of brown. After all, brown consists of red, yellow, and blue. Likewise, I think a pocket square in burgundy, a mustard yellow, or a blue will really work well with the entire ensemble.

Instead of white, wear shirts that contribute to the color brown to match with your brown tweed jacket.

Wool

Unlike linen or silk, wool won’t wrinkle as easily, and it will look a bit more casual–which is very advantageous in this day and age where people want to be well dressed without looking too stiff.

Charcoal, Purple and Blue Silk-Wool Pocket Square with Paisley Motifs – Fort Belvedere

So if you’re interested in a business casual wardrobe, a wool pocket square with patterns such as houndstooth or small checks will definitely work for you. A typical fall-winter pocket square in wool fabric or a silk-wool blend can also be worn in a business setting these days because overall, standards have gotten more relaxed and casual.

A pocket square with wool or silk wool can also be worn with a business casual outfit nowadays.

Silk

Normally, a typical silk pocket square with a regular sheen and brighter colors is predestined for a classic business suit ensemble. Of course, not all silk is alike. For example, silk satin is very bright and shiny, whereas grosgrain silk is a lot more matte–but for the fall-winter season, madder silk is an excellent material for pocket squares, because it has a very subdued color palette and it has a slightly reduced sheen. While they’re right at home with tweeds and flannels, you can also wear them with finer worsteds and your blazer.

Silk pocket squares with regular sheen and brighter colors are typically paired with classic business suit ensemble.

Madder Silk

Madder silk pocket squares can look great on a business suit. Why is that? Well basically, they’re right in the middle. They have more sheen than a matte fabric, but not as much as a satin. They have subdued colors, but they still have enough contrast. Also, the color scheme typically is in dark blues, reds, and purples, and they pick up the color scheme of most jackets in classic menswear. 

Green Madder Silk Pocket Square with Turquoise, Orange, and Yellow Large Paisley- Fort Belvedere

2. The Right Colors

In terms of color, if you focus on subdued yellows, browns, greens, purples, reds, and oranges, you will have a really good starting point. These colors mirror the outdoor environment in autumn in many parts of the world, thus making your outfit feel more at home during the fall-winter season. This is particularly true if you match the colors of your pocket square with the rest of your outfit, because then the environment, your outfit, and your pocket squares all have the same kinds of color hues.

Subdued colors like this burnt orange pocket square mirror the environment outside making your outfit feel at home during the fall-winter season.

For example, a brown herringbone jacket paired with a striped shirt, a green and red wool challis tie, and a burgundy vest looks great with a pocket square in a silk-wool blend that also contains the colors of brown, burgundy, blue, and green. The brown, yellow, red, and orange tones reflect the foliage outside and make people subconsciously believe that you visually fit in better.

The brown, yellow, red, and orange tones of this outfit reflect the foliage outside creating a harmonious look with the season.

If you have a patterned jacket, tie, and boutonniere, you may be better off to go with a solid pattern on your pocket square, but you can still use the color to pick up those subdued tones.

3. The Right Patterns

Apart from typical fall-winter materials and colors, choosing a pattern for your pocket square can also be a great way to create a superb looking fall-winter outfit. Classics like paisley, no matter whether it’s small or large, look sublime in the right subdued color scheme. Paisley naturally blends itself very easily to incorporate four, five, or even six different colors, thus making it very easy to combine your pocket square and pick up colors of other accessories or elements of your outfit.

If your tie is heavily patterned, you can opt for a solid pocket square and just match its color with your boutonniere.

As an example, if you have a Donegal tweed jacket and you want the pocket square to pop more, consider utilizing colors that are both rich and bold, and patterns that command a bit of attention (as depicted below).

Cerulean Blue Pocket Square Art Deco Egyptian Scarab pattern from Fort Belvedere.

Other great patterns for fall-winter pocket squares include animals such as rabbits, ducks, dogs, or deer, or any other kind of hunting motifs. Of course, if the color palette is more subdued, you can also choose elephants or scarabs (as we offer at Fort Belvedere). Because of the richness and the multitude of colors, they will work really well with most fall-winter outfits.

Mid Blue Silk-Wool Pocket Square with Hunting Motifs – Fort Belvedere

If you’re concerned about versatility, make sure to get at least four or more different colors in your pocket square, and life will be a lot easier. Also, keep in mind that more colors make for a more casual look.

Picking a Pocket Square for Fall-Winter Outfits

1. Choose a Color that Contrasts Your Jacket

First of all, you always want a contrast between your pocket square and your jacket. During the fall-winter months, that contrast doesn’t have to be super stark. It can be more subtle, but it has to be visually different and must not blend into your jacket.

Choose a pocket square that is visually different from your jacket in terms of color. (Madder silk tie from Fort Belvedere)

2. Pick Up Colors from Your Outfit

Choose a pocket square that contains colors from other areas of your outfit; that could be your tie or your bow tie, your shirt, maybe even your boutonniere, socks, or shoelaces. The goal is to create a harmonious look overall, and you can achieve that in two steps: 

1. Try to implement several colors of your outfit and have them in your pocket square.
2. Have a pattern in your pocket square that is contrasting–meaning smaller or larger–than other patterns in your outfit. We cover this and more of the basic pairing principles in our How To Combine a Pocket Square with a Tie, Suit & Shirt guide.

Pick a pocket square that contains colors from your outfit. (Burgundy silk pocket squares and shoelaces from Fort Belvedere)

The more colors of your outfit you can incorporate into your pocket square, the more harmonious the look. Nevertheless, you can have a pocket square with colors that feature nowhere else in your outfit, as long as you also have shades that are featured in such a way.

Fall-Winter Pocket Squares with Animal Motifs in silk-wool pocket squares by Fort Belvedere

A great example of this would be a brown Donegal tweed coat with a burgundy waistcoat, a red and white striped shirt, and a cognac peach yellow two-tone knit tie. All these colors are incorporated in the pocket square–but not the blue, and that’s okay! The Edelweiss boutonniere has a bit of blue, but it’s mostly white and picks up the white stripe of the shirt. Of course, you could also skip the boutonniere altogether. Because you have colors other than blue in your pocket square, it provides contrast without feeling detached from the rest of the outfit. This pocket square is versatile and you can basically pair it with any other tweed color in classic menswear.

The versatile colors in the pocket square and the blue and white color in the Eidelweiss boutonniere complete this look.

If you’re not quite ready to invest in fall-winter pocket squares, or if you just want to reuse what you already have, let’s take a look at another outfit. Here, it’s the same Donegal tweed jacket, this time paired with a light blue and dark blue striped shirt, an olive green silk knit tie, and a light blue silk pocket square from Fort Belvedere. The square is a bit shinier. but it works because it picks up the color tones of the shirt. Because of that, it doesn’t look too formal and it’s still a nice fall-winter outfit.

Raphael in a Donegal tweed jacket with a light blue and dark blue striped shirt paired with olive green silk knit tie and a light blue silk pocket square from Fort Belvedere

3. Match Your Pocket Square with Your Vest

You can also coordinate the color of your pocket square with that of your vest (waistcoat). For example, a navy blue pocket square in a wool-silk blend by Fort Belvedere paired with a mid-brown herringbone suit, a white shirt, dark blue tweed vest, and a brown bourette silk houndstooth tie. The textures of this outfit are all very matte and fall-winter appropriate, and while the pocket square harmonizes predominantly with the waistcoat, it also works with a tie, because it has those same color tones.

Match the color of your pocket square with your vest. (Houndstooth Bourette Silk Tie from Fort Belvedere.)

4. Match Your Pocket Square with Your Shirt

Of course, you can also coordinate the color of your pocket square with that of your shirt, as seen below. Here, we have a gray diagonal twill jacket that’s very tweedy with a very casual denim shirt and the same dark blue pocket square with rabbits in a silk-wool blend from Fort Belvedere.

You can also combine your pocket square with the color of your shirt.

Next, let’s go over individual color ideas for fall-winter pocket squares.

Blue Pocket Squares

Here’s another example using the same pocket square as before, but this time picking up the blue and beige from the tie and the green from the shirt.

The pocket square picks up the blue and the beige from the tie in this outfit.

If you want to mix it up, try something like a gray Donegal jacket with a Fair Isle sweater, a blue shirt with white stripes, a white linen pocket square with blue cross stitches along the edges, and a dark blue and light blue two-tone silk knit tie. The pocket square here has more white than blue and the shirt has more blue than white.

Gray Donegal jacket with a Fair Isle sweater, a blue shirt with white stripes, and a white linen pocket square with blue cross stitches along the edges and a dark blue and light blue two-tone silk knit tie.

In a slightly different outfit, we still have the same gray Donegal tweed jacket with a white shirt with blue checks. The pocket square is solid blue with a whitish string edge, and it all works together. This outfit had it the other way around: the pocket square has more blue and the shirt has more white.

Gray Donegal tweed jacket with a white shirt with blue checks and a solid blue pocket square with a whitish string edge.

If you want a navy pocket square or something that is a darker blue, make sure you have a jacket that is slightly lighter, so you create enough contrast. For example here, we have a navy blue wool challis pocket square with blue polka dots paired with a houndstooth jacket, a checked shirt, and a navy and light blue two-tone knit tie.

A navy blue wool challis pocket square with blue polka dots paired with a houndstooth jacket, a checked shirt, and a navy and light blue two-tone knit tie from Fort Belvedere.

Green Pocket Squares

Next up, let’s take a look at green pocket squares. Green is one of the most underrated colors in menswear, which is why we made a guide on how you can incorporate more green into your wardrobe and look the part.

The first outfit features a dark green silk pocket square from Fort Belvedere that has a small orange micropattern as well as shades of light blue. It is paired with a bluish-green tweed vest, a houndstooth flannel suit in dark brown and off-white as well as a white shirt, and a brown and green striped shantung silk tie. The pocket square picks up the color of the outfit and it’s subdued and elegant, incorporating everything in the pocket square. I also like the differences in texture from the knobby shantung silk and the smooth pocket square along with a coarser jacket.

Dark green silk pocket square paired with a bluish-green tweed vest, a houndstooth flannel suit in dark brown and off-white as well as a white shirt, and a brown and green striped shantung silk tie.

In this next outfit, we have a green silk-wool pocket square with a paisley pattern that has tones of orange-red and blue it just stands out subtly from the jacket because the wool challis bow tie in orange with green polka dots is already bold enough so the pocket square should be subtle and not overpowering. After all, the pocket square doesn’t stand alone but it’s just part of the look.

This green silk-wool pocket square is just subtle and blends with the jacket because the wool challis bow tie is already bold enough.

If you like blazers, here’s a cool, green fall-winter inspiration for you: navy jacket, white shirt, green and red wool challis bow tie with diamond points, and a large print pattern green pocket square. Once it’s folded, you can’t really see the pattern anymore but you see all the different colors that pick up elements of the outfit and create the desired harmonious look. Note the scale of the pockets work pattern is much bigger than the pattern and the bow tie, therefore, creating that round ensemble.

A navy jacket, white shirt, green and red wool challis bow tie with diamond points, and a large print pattern green pocket square for a cool, green fall-winter inspired look.

Orange & Yellow Pocket Squares

Just like green, orange and yellow are quite underrated in menswear (maybe orange more so than yellow). Oranges can be darker or brighter, but especially for pocket squares, the distinction between yellow and orange becomes very fluid. While spring-summer oranges can typically be very bold, it’s not something that works in a fall-winter season, and you should get something that’s a little more subdued instead.

Good for spring and summer: Silk Pocket Square in Sunflower Orange with Small and Large Paisley – Fort Belvedere

Let’s say you have a bolder patterned jacket such as this Prince of Wales check with a blue over-plaid. You can even forgo the pattern completely in your pocket square, and just show the nice antique gold-orange, yellowish color with the contrasting shoestring edge that picks up the color of the glen check. Beautiful, isn’t it?

Antique Gold Yellow Silk-Wool Pocket Square with Paisley paired with a Prince of Wales check jacket.

The next outfit is really interesting. It is actually a bronze orange madder silk pocket square combined with a green tweed jacket with an orange windowpane, a madder silk tie in ruby red, and a blue shirt. The pocket square provides a nice contrast to the jacket but incorporates the colors of red, green, and orange. Orange also doesn’t have to be the main dominant color in the pocket square, but it can just be an accent color.

Raphael wearing a green tweed jacket with an orange windowpane, bronze yellow pocket square, blue shirt, and a madder silk tie in ruby red.

Another look here is a different shade of orange in a pocket square mixed with turquoise and coordinating with a tie or the bow tie. That being said, all these concepts of course, also apply to all the other fall-winter colors and you can play and see what works for you. I’m trying to provide you with concepts that you can apply to your wardrobe and what you already have.

Aqua Green Jacquard Woven Tie paired with a Sapphire Blue Pocket Square and an Edelweiss Boutonniere in a dark gray flannel suit jacket.

For example, this next outfit is very different. It has a yellow pocket square and a yellow knit tie paired with a light blue shirt and a Prince of Wales check cashmere sport coat with a mustard yellow over-plaid. The navy pants and brown shoes allow for a harmonious ensemble because nothing is too loud, but it works because yellow and blue both contribute to the color brown.

The yellow knit tie and pale yellow pocket square complete the harmonious look of this ensemble.

Red Pocket Squares

The color red is probably the most popular color for ties and pocket squares in general. For fall and winter, typically your number one color of red is a dark red or burgundy. For example, here is a dark red pocket square that has animal motifs–little rabbits. This is a silk-wool pocket square paired with a tweed jacket and a turtleneck sweater. The rabbits pick up the brown tones of the jacket and the sweater, and the red provides a nice subtle contrast that is noticeable but not too bold.

A silk-wool pocket square with an animal motif paired with a tweed jacket and a turtleneck sweater.

Here is another silk wool burgundy pocket square. It’s paired with a tweed jacket, a checked shirt, and a red rose boutonniere, and the very same pocket square is used here with a gray Donegal tweed jacket, a burgundy vest, a blue matter silk tie, and a red striped shirt.

Silk-wool burgundy pocket square paired with a gray flannel jacket a checked shirt and a red rose boutonniere.

And no, we’re not done yet! Here is the same jacket which is part of a suit paired with pink mottled silk in a tie by Fort Belvedere, a blue vest, and a blue shirt. Looks pretty neat, doesn’t it?

Raphael sporting a gray Donegal tweed jacket, blue vest, white shirt, pink mottled knit tie, and silk-wool burgundy pocket square.

Also, keep in mind that red or any other color doesn’t have to be the dominant color. For example, in this outfit, we have this brick red scarab pocket square that also has green and orange. Depending on the way you fold it, different colors can be dominant. For example, here it is paired with an oatmeal-colored herringbone tweed jacket, a Fair Isle wool knit vest, brown corduroys, a pale orange shirt, a burgundy glen check bow tie, and olive green shoes.

Raphael wearing an oatmeal-colored herringbone tweed jacket paired with a Fair Isle wool knit vest, brown corduroys, a pale orange shirt, a burgundy glen check bow tie, a brick red scarab pocket square, and olive green shoes.

Purple Pocket Squares

Just like green, orange, or yellow, purple is not a popular color in menswear because many men are unsure of how to wear it well. Of course, it can be a marvelous color for pocket squares. Naturally, purple can be the main color of a pocket square.

For example, in this outfit, we have a madder silk square with a large diamond pattern in dark green and subdued orange. It picks up the color of the green and purple shantung silk tie in the outfit. Because purple and green are a bolder color mix even when subdued, the tweed jacket, blue tweed vest, and light blue button-down collar shirt don’t steal the show. I’m also wearing a herringbone flat cap as well as blue suede gloves and light brown corduroys.

The madder silk pocket square picks up the color of the shantung silk tie in this outfit. (Edelweiss boutonniere also from Fort Belvedere)

There are certainly bold elements in there but overall, the purple works quite well. It’s maybe a little bit too much to start, but purple can also be worn as an accent color in a pocket square in more advanced ensembles. For example, here, it’s mixed with blue, orange, green, and yellow and because it’s not a strong purple, it combines well with the pale purple shirt. The oatmeal tweed jacket provides a nice background for the pocket square and harmonizes with a brown cardigan knit vest in a glen check pattern. The green in the pocket square also works with the green and the polka-dot linen tie.

The purple color of the pocket square picks up the purple shade of the shirt in this outfit.

Brown Pocket Squares

Last but not least, you may want to consider brown for pocket squares during the fall-winter season. While brown is a prominent color in menswear in general, it’s often neglected when it comes to pocket squares.

Light Brown Linen Pocket Square with Blue Handrolled X Stitch – Fort Belvedere

A subtle way to incorporate it is to use a pale brown with a linen pocket square with light blue X edges. In this example, they are hand-rolled. The jacket has a fine houndstooth pattern in a brown mustard yellow and navy tone, the vest is greenish or greyish blue, the shirt is off-white and the solid light brown provides just a subtle contrast to the jacket without being distracting at all. That way, the boutonniere, and the green bow tie can shine, but you still have a pocket square that is fall-winter appropriate.

Houndstooth jacket paired with a gray vest, white shirt, a light brown linen pocket square, light blue boutonniere, and a green bow tie.

Conclusion

As you can see, a great many options are available to you when selecting pocket squares for the fall and winter seasons. Remember to consider the formality of your outfits, the overall color palette you’re working with, and how bold you’d like your accessories to be, and you’ll be well on your way to looking stylish in cold weather!

How do you style your pocket squares for fall-winter outfits? Share your techniques in the comments!

A change in season can mean a change in wardrobe, but there are stylish pieces you can wear almost all year round–and when it comes to outerwear, a waxed cotton jacket is a perfect example! It’s a staple for outdoorsy men, but even if you don’t fall in that camp, you can definitely incorporate into looks both rugged and dressy in spring, fall, and the early days of winter.

History of Waxed Cotton Jackets

In the 15th-century mariners would coat the sails on their boats with fish oil and with grease. This was done for more efficiency and weather and kept the sails light in wet weather. The worn-down remnants of these sails were cut down for capes to keep the mariners dry. These are the beginnings of the fisherman’s slicker. From 1795, Francis Webster Ltd. was one of the best at adding linseed oil to flax sails.

The seeds of the flax plant can be used to make linseed oil

By the mid-1920s the fabric was sent to Websters to be woven and then it would be sent to Lancashire County to be dyed in black or olive green. This produced the cloth that was water-resistant, breathable, and didn’t have a yellowing effect as it aged. Then it was sent to London to be treated with copper ammonia afterward the fabric was sent back to Lancashire County for waxing. In 2005, refined hydrocarbon wax was developed to be able to replace the copper ammonia treatment, which is causing a really strong scent.

Belstaff gained popularity with motorcycles becoming a means of transportation.

Over the years we’ve seen a large interest in waxed cotton coming from the commercial shipping industry. J.Barbour and Sons was an early adapter in the outdoor industry. They made the waxed cotton jackets for farmers and for gamekeepers. Belstaff also gained a lot of popularity as motorcycles arose as a means of transportation.

Because of how water-resistant it is, waxed cotton was adapted as the first choice of waterproof clothing for the British Armed Forces in World War II.

Classic Barbour Beaufort

When Should You Wear a Waxed Cotton Jacket?

Cooler temperatures always provide the best time to wear a waxed cotton jacket. The reason is, spring, fall, and the beginning of winter depending on your location are always going to provide you the best opportunity to take advantage of the water resistance, and the subtle insulation these jackets provide.

Certain brands and styles offer more padding and insulation than others and some may provide more of a shell to provide against moisture, for example, when out fishing.

Raphael putting the Belstaff Trialmaster jacket’s water-resistance to the test.

The waxed cotton jacket is essentially a three-season jacket depending on your intention and needs. While shopping for your jacket, it’s important to keep temperature and style in mind. Will you be actually wearing your jacket for outdoor activities or will you also be wearing this as more of a fashion statement and to pay homage to a timeless style? Once you have answered those for yourself, make sure you shop around and find the best quality and find the best jacket that fits you.

Remember, if you’re uncomfortable with what you’re wearing, it is going to show. Also, don’t feel the need to wear a particular jacket from a certain brand simply because of its popularity. Finding what works best for you is always ideal whether that comes from a vintage shop or a high-end store.

Find out which jacket works best for you rather than settling with a particular brand’s popularity. (Black and Off-White Driving Touchscreen Gloves in Perforated Lamb Nappa Leather by Fort Belvedere)

What Color Should You Choose?

Typically, what many of us think of when we envision a waxed cotton jacket something would be something black or dark olive green. Although this is correct in terms of many, many factories will produce, we are now starting to see more options in terms of color — we see tan, navy, and sometimes even plaid. If you’re new to the world of waxed cotton jackets, it’s important to probably find something that will offer more stability in your outfits like a green, or black option. However, if you already got something good foundational colors like that in your wardrobe, feel free to go ahead and have some fun and experiment with a different color, or perhaps a pattern.

Raphael sporting the Barbour Bedale jacket and British Racing Green Off White Driving Gloves in Lamb Nappa Leather by Fort Belvedere

Waxed Cotton Jacket Outfit Ideas – #1: Patterned Pants with a Neutral Shirt

The boldness of the patterned pants draws immediate attention however the neutrality of the shirt and the jacket brings balance into the entire outfit. Adding something quirky is just a little bit out of the norm to your outfit is just a great way to add new life into your waxed cotton jacket. 

Waxed cotton jacket with a neutral shirt, gray patterned pants

Outfit #2: Gray Pants with a Patterned Shirt

Gray pants are an easy choice for many to want to wear because of the ease of both blending it to casual or professional attire. The patterned shirt will bring something new and refreshing to the viewer, as the dark jacket and neutral pants could appear rather bland on their own. It’s beneficial to consider a color choice that compliments both jacket and pants in this outfit.

Waxed cotton jacket and a purple patterned shirt

The charcoal gray dress pants work well in the entire outfit and keep it elevated and professional looking as opposed to wearing chinos or a pair of jeans in this particular setting. The small checks within the pattern of the purple shirt are not too busy or too whimsical and although they allow for visual interest, they keep things professional as well. 

Waxed cotton jacket, a patterned shirt, and a gray pair of pants for an elevated and professional look.

Outfit #3: Dark Wash Denim with a Lightweight Sweater

Wearing dark wash jeans is a great way to maintain the casual appearance of the entire outfit and help bring out the casualness of the waxed cotton jacket as well. Try to remember to keep your denim choice free of too much whiskering or seam details; this will take away from the clean look of the entire outfit and also will take away from the timelessness of your look. The lightweight sweater has the capability of elevating and also brightening the entire appearance of the otherwise outdoorsy waxed cotton jacket.

Wear your waxed cotton jacket with a lightweight sweater and dark wash denim pants for a casual look.

Once you remove your jacket, the sweater and the denim will be able to complement one another effortlessly. It’s best to choose a bright colored sweater that complements the dark denim very well. It also provides a nice contrast if you’re in a dark jacket.

Keep your denim free from too much whiskering or too many details for a cleaner, casual look.

Outfit #4: Chino Pants and a Patterned Sport Shirt

Chino pants are convenient pant options to own especially in colors like stone, tan, green, or even navy. With a black waxed cotton jacket, for contrast, tan cotton chino pants would look great. A patterned shirt also complements the chino pants once the jacket is removed as well.

This outfit will still look great even without the jacket.

Outfit #5: Dark Turtleneck Sweater and Neutral Dress Pants

Wearing a turtleneck over a casual jacket or a blazer is not a new concept, but the juxtaposition of wearing an outdoorsy jacket like the waxed cotton jacket with a turtleneck blend together wonderfully. Then adding the neutral dress pants elevates everything and allows everything to look complete.

Combine your dark turtleneck sweater with a pair of neutral dress pants and waxed cotton jacket for a sophisticated look.

The turtleneck is not too thick and therefore is comfortably worn under the jacket without looking or feeling too bulky. The neutral colored dress pants in this outfit have a very small check pattern inside of them and its soft color helps brighten the rest of the outfit as the shoes, jacket, and turtleneck are all quite dark.

The neutral color and subtle patterns of this dress pants help brighten up the entire outfit.

Outfit #6: A Sweater with a Dress Shirt, Tie and Dress Pants

This is the harmonious way we’ll be able to blend a business casual outfit with a rustic outerwear element. Depending on what your waxed cotton jacket looks like in terms of length, color, and different embellishments, you may decide you prefer to not wear a tie or to wear a different sweater or no sweater at all. It’s always best to keep an open mind but in the end, do what’s best for you in your outfit.

Complete this business casual ensemble with a Cashmere Wool Grenadine Tie from Fort Belvedere.

In this outfit, you can confidently enter a workplace and not feel too underdressed due to the outerwear. The waxed cotton jacket provides insulation and water resistance. The multiple layers worn in this outfit help add a little more depth to the overall outfit.

The best part is, you can wear this great outfit without feeling underdressed because of the jacket. (Cashmere Wool Grenadine Tie – Fort Belvedere)

Outfit #7: A Patterned Sweater and a Denim Shirt

The denim shirt and patterned sweater combination will add warmth to the entire outfit. Try adding a favorite watch or a ring to further personalize your outfit. The lightweight sweater I chose to wear happens to have a lot of shades of blue and some gray woven inside. All different neutrals can help complement the dark washed jeans. This outfit can also be worn with off-white denim, tan chino pants, and a bold earth tone colored green pants as well.

You can even personalize this outfit with your favorite watch or ring!

Outfit #8: A Denim Shirt with Off-white Pants

Our last outfit is great for a casual outing especially if you’re wearing a black, navy, green, or khaki cotton waxed jacket. The tone of the light denim shirt will brighten up your outfit, especially when worn with a black or an olive green waxed jacket. The off-white pants option also helps brighten up the outfit especially when paired with a nice pair of boots, or cap of your choosing.

This combination is a great outfit for a casual outing.

Waxed Cotton Jacket Mistakes – 1. Don’t Dry Clean.

This can damage the jacket due to the pressing and heat involved and also, a lot of the different chemicals that might be used at the dry cleaners usually won’t cooperate to well with the wax.

The heat from the dry clean machine will definitely damage your jacket.

2. Don’t Machine Wash

A good alternative to cleaning your waxed cotton jacket would be to wash it by hand. Over time you might also find that you should be reapplying a coat of wax on your jacket.

A good alternative is to hand wash instead to avoid damaging your jacket.

3. Don’t Wash with Warm Water

The reason that this is important is that in doing so, you’ll be releasing the protective coating on your jacket.

Washing your waxed cotton in warm water will remove its protective coating.

Waxed Cotton Jacket Care Tips

It’s important to know that waxed cotton jackets usually need an annual re-waxing. Over time, the friction of consistent wear will cause the wax to break down. Re-waxing is best performed during the summer months due to the naturally warmer temperature. It is, therefore, much easier to spread around due to how soft it is. When the wax is warmed, you can then apply it to small areas with a soft cloth.

Barbour silk oil wax

Conclusion

Waxed cotton has a long and rich history. Although much time has passed since it’s creation, many of the original ways of how it’s first enjoyed are still enjoyed today. The resurgence in recent years of a more classic style offers a great opportunity to re-introduce this element of style into our wardrobes and this element offers many different benefits that will last for years to come.

Do you have a waxed cotton jacket in your collection? When and how do you like to wear them? Share it in the comments!

The Kingsman films would seem at first glance to be right up the alley of a classic menswear enthusiast; black tie, sharp suits, and other menswear ensembles abound, and the cover for the Kingsman organization is even a tailoring shop on Savile Row. But what we’ll be examining today is whether 2017’s Kingsman: The Golden Circle (the second film in the series) truly adheres to the tenets of classic men’s style.

This review is the second in a series analyzing the style of the ongoing Kingsman film franchise; we covered 2014’s Kingsman: The Secret Service in the first installment. As before, if you’re looking for a review of the film in terms of watchability, we will briefly touch on that toward the end of the post, but our focus today is on the clothes themselves.

Styles of the Kingsman Agents

Gary Unwin / Eggsy

Eggsy has now assumed the code name of Galahad and he starts this movie in his signature outfit from the previous film, the navy pinstriped suit. In his civilian life, however, we do still see him in his typical streetwear ensembles of polos, ball caps, and sneakers. We see more different kinds of outfits from Eggsy in this film including a gray-blue double-breasted suit with the standard blue, pink, and brown rep tie, a white shirt, and a TV-folded white pocket square.

Eggsy sporting a gray-blue double-breasted suit with the standard blue, pink, and brown rep tie, a white shirt, and a TV-folded white pocket square.

A fairly well-known black tie ensemble of Eggsy’s that was featured in a lot of the film’s marketing consists of an orange velvet dinner jacket with black velvet peak lapels and side vents, a white shirt with regular buttons, a black velvet batwing bow tie, white TV-folded pocket square, black trousers, and gold cufflinks.

Again, when compared to the standards of classic Black Tie, some of these details aren’t quite correct. We wouldn’t advise that you wear a Black Tie ensemble with a regular dress shirt but rather a more formal tuxedo shirt. The orange color is of course quite bold and typical tuxedo jackets should have no vents, rather than double vents. However, two vents can be acceptable on a Black Tie jacket though ventless is most correct.

Eggsy in an orange velvet dinner jacket with black velvet peak lapels and side vents, a white shirt with regular buttons, a black velvet batwing bow tie, white TV-folded pocket square, black trousers, and gold cufflinks.

Other ensembles we see Eggsy wear in the film include a charcoal suit with a pink pinstripe, a plain navy suit, and toward the end of the film, formal military attire. We can also see that some of Eggsy’s oxfords in this film themselves have broguing. Further illustrating our point that the two types of shoes are not mutually exclusive.

Eggsy wearing a plain navy suit, white shirt and his blue, pink, and brown rep tie.

Harry Hart / Galahad

While it may be a bit into spoiler territory here, we do see Colin Firth’s Galahad again in the second film in the series. First, we see him in a flashback wearing a white shirt and navy pin dot tie. Later in the film, he’s reintroduced wearing a sporty grey zip-up, plain white t-shirt, track pants, white sneakers, and an eye patch. He’s also seen shaving with a traditional double-edged safety razor, which we’ve covered in-depth in our Double-Edged Razor Guide.

An amnesiac Harry wearing a sporty grey zip-up, plain white t-shirt, track pants, and an eye patch.

Other outfits we see from Harry in this film include his standard navy pinstriped Kingsman ensemble, a plain light gray double-breasted suit, a plain charcoal double-breasted suit, and morning dress with a pink waistcoat and tartan trousers, as well as a white carnation boutonniere.

Harry Hart wearing the standard navy pinstriped Kingsman ensemble.

Merlin

The character of Merlin is again seen wearing a v-neck sweater, this time in a two-toned grey and brown design, white shirt, black or very dark blue plain tie, and his signature clubmaster glasses. We later see him in two other outfits: one consisting of a flat cap tartan patterned field jacket with belt and gray pants, and the standard navy pinstripe Kingsman ensemble.

Merlin in his usual v-neck sweater and signature clubmaster glasses get up.

Arthur

The new Kingsman agent to assume the code name of Arthur is seen in the film wearing a navy double-breasted suit with a faint blue overcheck, a white TV-folded pocket square, white shirt, and the pink blue and brown striped repp tie that the old Arthur also wore.

The new Arthur wears a navy double-breasted suit with a faint blue overcheck, a white TV-folded pocket square, white shirt, and a pink blue and brown striped repp tie.

Roxy Morton / Lancelot

The character of Roxy has now assumed the code name of Lancelot and the first time we see her in the film, she’s wearing a more typically Kingsman-inspired ensemble consisting of a gray double-breasted jacket with a Prince of Wales check pattern in light blue, a white shirt and repp tie, and the standard TV-folded white pocket square.

Roxy (Lancelot) wearing a Kingsman-inspired ensemble.

Styles of the Villains

Poppy Adams

To match the aesthetics of her secret lair, the main villain, Poppy Adams (played by Julianne Moore) often dresses in 1950s styles including dresses and matching high-heeled shoes, as well as a bowling outfit. Her goons meanwhile will wear things like letterman jackets, soda jerk outfits, and bellhop outfits. We also see Poppy in a floral print dress at another point in the film.

Poppy Adams in a floral dress with matching high heels.

Charlie Hesketh

The character of Charlie played by Edward Holcroft appears in the second film as well, we see him first in streetwear then in outfits consisting of horse-bit loafers, a flat cap, and a signet ring, a double-breasted trench coat, an OCBD shirt, navy crew neck navy puffer jacket, and parka and maroon chinos with the Hermes belt, also making a return.

Charles Hesketh wearing a navy crew neck puffer jacket, maroon chinos and a flat cap.

Charles

The villainous henchman named Charles played by Keith Allen wears an ensemble consisting of a powder blue suit with narrow peak lapels, a blue striped shirt, a white belt, and white loafers while going sockless.

The henchman Charles wearing a powder blue suit with narrow peak lapels and a blue striped shirt.

Angel

Meanwhile, the henchman Angel played by Tom Benedict Knight is first seen wearing a mauve jacket with narrow lapels, a pink shirt with a Cuban collar, a gold necklace, dark jeans, and a white belt while also going sockless. He’s later seen in a navy blue single-breasted suit with peak lapels, a navy shirt, and a blue textured silk tie. We typically wouldn’t advise going for this sort of tone-on-tone look but if you’d like more information about monochromatically inspired outfits, our guide to Monochromatic Outfits has got your covered.

The henchman Angel wearing a mauve jacket with narrow lapels, a pink shirt with a Cuban collar, a gold necklace, dark jeans, and a white belt.

Styles of the Statesman Agents

Tequila

Now, let’s look at the style of some of the statesman agents: the American analog to the Kingsman organization, starting off with the character of Tequila played by Channing Tatum. We first see him wearing a denim-on-denim ensemble of jeans and a denim jacket as well as a belt buckle that looks like a flask, tan cowboy hat, a Western-style white shirt with snaps instead of buttons, brown boots, brown gloves, and aviator-style glasses.

Agent Tequila wearing a denim-on-denim ensemble of jeans and a denim jacket.

Another notable piece of outerwear for the character is a traditionally styled shearling jacket in tan and off-white and toward the end of the film, we see him assume the role of a Kingsman agent wearing an ensemble consisting of black boots, a charcoal suit with a rust-colored pinstripe, white shirt that also has a thin stripe, a Kingsman repp tie, white TV-folded pocket square, and a black bowler hat.

Agent Tequila sporting a charcoal suit with a rust-colored pinstripe Kingsman ensemble, as later seen in the film.

Champagne / “Champ”

The character of Champagne or Champ as played by Jeff Bridges is first seen in a western-style grey jacket with peak lapels and also a darker gray vest as well as a white shirt that again, has snaps which seem to be a standard feature for the statesman. He’s also wearing a neckerchief, gray cowboy hat, statesman lapel pin, jeans, and a signet ring.

Champagne in a western-style grey jacket ensemble.

We later see him in variations on this outfit as well as an all ivory double-breasted suit, white shirt, and various gold accessories toward the end of the film.

Agent Champagne wearing a double-breasted ivory suit at Eggsy’s wedding.

Whiskey

The final statesman to discuss here is Whiskey as played by Pedro Pascal. We first see him in a black-colored western jacket as well as a black hat, a white shirt, and a black grenadine tie. Another ensemble consists of a black leather jacket, white t-shirt jeans, and what might appear to be Wellington style boots.

Agent Whiskey in black western jacket as well as a black hat, a white shirt, and a black grenadine tie.

Other features of his outfits include a studded belt, a dark brown hat, similarly two-toned jackets, a striped grenadine tie, skiing attire, and typical denim-on-denim statesman ensembles.

Agent Whiskey sporting a black leather jacket and a white t-shirt.

Ginger Ale

Halle Berry’s Ginger Ale is something of a statesman counterpart to Merlin and we first see her in a vest, white shirt, and string tie with an overall businessy look. We later see her in the standard statesman-styled ensemble of jeans, charcoal western-style jacket, and a v-neck sweater and all the while she wears clubmaster glasses as well though in a more feminine cat-eye style.

Ginger Ale in a standard Statesman-styled ensemble of jeans, charcoal western-style jacket, and a v-neck sweater. She also sports a clubmaster glasses in a more feminine style.

Other Noteworthy Characters

King of Sweden

Looking at another example of Black Tie, we’ll go to the character of the King of Sweden played by Bjorn Granath. In the dinner party scene early in the film, he wears a standard black tuxedo with satin peak lapels, a pleated shirt, and a black bow tie, as well as a white square-folded pocket square.

The King of Sweden in his military ensemble.

We later see him in a more casual outfit of a white shirt, black pants, and gray v-neck sweater as well as formal royal or military attire toward the end of the film. His Swedish guards meanwhile have a distinctly 18th-century look about them.

The King of Sweden in a more casual outfit.

President of the United States

The President of the United States, as played by Bruce Greenwood, wears a typical black suit, white barrel cuffed shirt, red solid tie, American flag pin, dress watch, black belt, and black shoes. The black suit is a common ensemble for many politicians but overall, we find the color of black to be fairly overrated. 

The President of the United States wearing a black suit, white barrel cuffed shirt, and red solid tie.

Pruitt (Poppy’s Lawyer)

We also see a lawyer character named Pruitt played by Jeff Ricketts late into the film who wears an unremarkable ensemble of a charcoal suit, white shirt, blue grenafaux tie, and blue pocket square.

The lawyer named Pruitt wearing a charcoal suit ensemble.

Eggsy’s Friends

Eggsy’s friends, or “mates,” as the Brits would say, typically wear streetwear though toward the end of the film, they can be seen in suits at Eggsy’s wedding also accented by carnation boutonnieres. 

Eggsy’s friends who are usually in streetwear are seen later in the film wearing suits with carnation boutonnieres.

Elton John

Finally here, we’d be remiss not to mention the various outfits worn by Elton John who plays himself in this film. These consist of a sparkly and sequined show business outfit, an outfit with a tracksuit and tennis shoes, what can only be described as a peacock outfit, and late in the film, a more traditional morning dress.

Elton John in what can only be descibed as a peacock outfit.

How Would We Characterize the Style of Kingsman: The Golden Circle?

It seems to be a bit less inspired at least in the realm of men’s tailoring. The Kingsman agents have less overall variety in their wardrobe choices and when other characters wear suits, they’re either unremarkable and boring or more clearly influenced by modern style. Though in some cases, this can be appropriate for their characters.

The Kingsman and Statesman agents altogether in their respective standard agency ensemble.

When considering characters like the statesmen, the villains, and of course Elton John, things really do get more into the realm of costumes.

Eggsy looking dapper in his military uniform for his wedding.

What About the Film’s Overall Watchability?

Even though I enjoyed the first film just as much for its plot as for its wardrobe choices, I would say that personally, I found this second film in the series to be less entertaining on both counts. And as with the first film, this one too has an R rating for its gratuitous action, violence, gore, and occasional crude humor and subject matter.

In other words, it’s not exactly gentlemanly on all fronts, if that should impact your desire to see it. But again, it does approach the world of menswear and a gentleman’s lifestyle with what can be described as an aspirational or appreciative tone and for that, we can compliment it.

Harry, Merlin, and Eggsy all wearing the standard Kingsman repp tie.

This film features fewer memorable quotes than the first one does. Think of things like “Manners maketh man.” or “A suit is a gentleman’s suit of armor.” But it does still show that being well-rounded in gentlemanly pursuits is something worth looking after.

For example, a flashback sequence toward the beginning of the film features Eggsy and Galahad in a section about table manners and silverware placement. Later, formal dinner conversation includes topics as diverse as art, the economy, and technology. In other words, what these scenes are illustrating is that it’s not enough just to look good to be a gentleman, you’ve also got to be well-rounded in your pursuits and, ultimately, respectful as well.

Harry teaching Eggsy some table manners.

Conclusion

Overall, if the Kingsman films serve as an entry point into the world of classic menswear for young men, action film fans, or anyone else, we see this as a good thing. Just remember that their menswear advice shouldn’t be followed as strictly as the mission briefing of a super spy.

When it comes to the basic building blocks of menswear in terms of color, brown definitely takes a spot on the list (alongside shades of blue and shades of gray, as well as black and white). However, while blues and grays have been staples of business wear for centuries, brown historically wasn’t quite at this same level of formality. So, today, we’ll discuss six stylish outfit ideas for a slightly more unique wardrobe choice–a brown patterned suit.

Why Is Brown So Underrated?

The reasons why brown isn’t seen much in the world of business wear are numerous and varied, but we think it’s the most underrated color in the world of menswear. Suffice it to say though, that gray and blue were considered business wear for the 19th and early 20th century while brown was considered more appropriate for country wear.

As evidence of this, we need to look no further than that old-fashioned dictum “no brown in town.” However, we think this is one of Men’s Style “Rules” To Ignore. This old chestnut has been falling away more and more with the increased casualization of wardrobes over the last 50 years or so. And in this case, we’d say so much the better.

Look dapper in a brown Donegal tweed sport coat, blue shirt, and accessories with shades of blue. (Battleship Gray Jacquard Woven Tie and Dark Blue Handcrafted Linen Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere.)

We think that brown suits are a stylish addition to any man’s wardrobe and that they can be worn in a wide variety of settings. So to prove this point, we’ve rounded up six different outfits indeed not just for brown suits but for brown patterned suits. Of course, any of these ideas could just as easily apply to a plain brown suit with minor modification. But, we thought that by taking the least commonly worn out of the base menswear colors, adding the further complication of patterns, and still getting six varied outfits out of it, we could cement the point that you can get a lot of mileage out of a brown suit.

Raphael wearing gray flannel trousers, brown tweed sport coat, brown dress shoes, and accessories with shades of brown. (Two-Tone Knit Tie and Dark Brown Madder Silk Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere.)

Style Theories Involving Brown

Before we get to the individual looks, let’s tackle a bit of style theory as to why brown works. In the broad strokes, brown can now be worn relatively easily across a broad spectrum of formalities with the exception of Black Tie and White Tie. This is because brown fundamentally works to ground an outfit complementing various other colors and counterbalancing any bright hues you might be wearing elsewhere in your ensembles.

Preston in a black-tie ensemble. (Boutonniere, bow tie, and pocket square from Fort Belvedere.)

It pairs well with other foundational colors

In particular, brown pairs especially nicely with one of the other base hues of menswear–blue. Our guide to combining blue and brown covers a more detailed analysis of why blue and brown go so well together but in the broad strokes, it’s because blue and orange are opposite each other on the color wheel acting as complementary colors and because brown often contains orange tones, it pairs similarly well with blue. Secondly, because both blue and brown come in a wide variety of shades, it should be easy to find hues of both that work well for you.

Brown and blue combination. (Grenadine Silk Tie in Navy Blue from Fort Belvedere)

Similarly to how brown pairs well with blue, it can also be paired well with grey, which is another base hue. While this pairing is a bit less conventional, so long as you’re working to match the formality and seasonality of the garments, you can pair brown and gray easily and be good to go. As an example, some gray flannel trousers paired with a tweed jacket featuring brown tones would fit nicely into the smart-casual category for fall or winter. 

Brown patterned suit with a Prince of Wales Check Silk Tie in Black and White. (White Initial Pocket Square also from Fort Belvedere)

Again, another style rule to ignore is wearing brown and black, which are similar hues, in a single outfit. You can even wear brown and black together well so long as they’re harmonizing in terms of formality and intensity.

One more color with which brown plays especially well is green. This is likely because of how often these two colors are seen together in nature.

Green works well with brown because of how often they are seen together in nature. (Pale Yellow Linen Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere)

Matching the shade with your skin tone

An additional point here: it is a good idea to make sure that the shades of brown along with whatever other colors you’re wearing, be it blue, gray, or something else, harmonize well with your skin tone. For example, lighter skin tones might go well with lighter or paler shades of brown, whereas darker skin tones could go well with a dark charcoal brown and a white shirt for a strong contrast. Medium skin tones could also benefit from some contrast though maybe not quite to the same degree.

A lighter skin tone goes well with a lighter shade of brown.  (Madder Silk Tie and Madder Silk Pocket Square in Purple from Fort Belvedere.)

These rules aren’t ironclad, of course, and indeed some of the looks we’ll be featuring today don’t follow them. You can think of these suggestions as guard rails or ways to play it safe when pairing colors together. We still suggest taking a look at the best colors for your skin tone.

Paper test to determine your skin undertone.

6 Ways To Wear a Brown Patterned Suit

Outfit #1: A Formal Office Look

As we mentioned earlier, the old rule about “no brown in town” is now going to be untrue in all but the most formal of workplace environments. In most scenarios, wearing a full suit, even in brown, is still going to be comparatively formal to what many others are wearing. Still, a suit that’s both brown and patterned will always be at least somewhat informal.

If you work in an especially strictly formal environment like a law firm, for example, where charcoal and navy suits abound, a dark charcoal brown suit with a subtle pattern is likely the least formal you’d want to go. In these cases, though, the outfit can be further formalized by your other elements. You’re probably going to want to go with a white shirt for strong contrast, preferably with French cuffs, a conservative tie, dark shoes, and tasteful accessories.

Formalize your brown patterned suit with a white collared shirt and tasteful accessories. (Madder Print Silk Tie, Edelweiss Boutonniere, and Copper Red Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere.)

A three-piece suit would likely be the most formal and conservative option here, followed by a double-breasted suit and then a two-piece single-breasted one.

This outfit here is a good example of this highly formal look. It’s augmented slightly by wearing an off-white shirt to better harmonize with the brown color palette overall but the tie pattern is still relatively conservative in Macclesfield neats, on conservative cufflinks, and a slightly more playful boutonniere. The socks and pocket square also ultimately work within the color family, and the shoes are darker brown cap-toe oxfords, which are also fairly conservative.

Dark charcoal brown three-piece suit with subtle patterns, white collared shirt, white pocket square, and red pin dot tie for a more formal office look.

Outfit #2: A Less Formal Office Look

Moving down a step in formality, if suits are worn only occasionally in your office or intermingled with combinations of odd jackets and trousers, you can still wear the same suit we just discussed but make it slightly less formal with the addition of more color.

A darker patterned suit with bolder accessories for a less formal office look. (knit tie from Fort Belvedere)

For instance, a blue shirt or one in another pastel shade, perhaps, even with a micro pattern could be a good choice, too. The same would also be true of bolder accessories in terms of color, pattern, texture, and so on. Now might also be the time to experiment with bolder shoes as well. Furthermore, this is also the time at which you could experiment with not only wearing a dark brown patterned suit but also something with a lighter base color.

Prince of Wales check two-piece double-breasted suit in a lighter shade and a light blue collared shirt. (Bow tie, boutonniere, and pocket square from Fort Belvedere.)

Outfit #3: Adding A Contrasting Waistcoat or Sweater

Our third look today continues along with this theme of adding progressively more color into your outfits and here, this is accomplished by wearing either a contrasting odd waistcoat or a sweater. This can be done easily with both a two-piece suit where the odd waistcoat or sweater is simply added underneath the jacket or with a three-piece suit where the waistcoat or sweater substitutes for the original matching waistcoat.

Preston wearing a brown patterned suit and a contrasting burgundy cardigan. (Paisley Madder Silk Tie and Red Mini Carnation Silk Boutonniere from Fort Belvedere)

A sweater in a contrasting but harmonious color might be a bit easier to get your hands on than a contrasting or odd waistcoat but if you are going the sweater route, this could be accomplished with a cardigan, a v-neck, or perhaps even a sweater vest.

The one type of suit we wouldn’t recommend for this look would be a double-breasted suit as the under layer of the contrasting waistcoat or sweater would be largely obscured by the double-breasted jacket, given that it should be buttoned at all times.

A double-breasted patterned suit is not recommended with a contrasting waistcoat or sweater simply because it should be buttoned up at all times.

Outfit #4: Pairing Your Suit With A Turtleneck

Continuing the topic of wearing suits with sweaters, an even more casual option and one that would be particularly good for fall or winter would be pairing your brown patterned suit with a turtleneck sweater. In this circumstance, you’ll be foregoing a collared shirt, tie, and many other accessories, though not all, so your main points of customization are going to come from two sources.

A perfect fall outfit: Prince of Wales jacket combined with a tan turtleneck sweatshirt and a light blue pocket square from Fort Belvedere.

The first of these will be the relative boldness of the outfit determined largely by the pattern of the suit and the color of the turtleneck. You could go with louder patterns and/or richer colors or you could lean into the inherent minimalism in this look with neutral tones.

The second point of customization would come from how you choose your remaining accessories and garments, which would include shoes, socks, pocket squares, and boutonnieres, for instance.

Brown houndstooth jacket paired with the same tan turtleneck.

Outfit #5: Pairing the Suit Jacket with Odd Trousers

For our remaining two looks, we’re going to start breaking up the suit itself. Perhaps, the easiest way to do this would be by wearing the suit jacket with a pair of odd trousers. Remember that because the suits we’re discussing today are patterned, the jacket will look more appropriate on its own paired with a contrasting pair of trousers than a plain suit jacket would in the same circumstance.

Plain suit jackets worn on their own often have a tendency to look orphaned somewhat because of their largely nondescript character. Whereas odd jackets like blazers and sport coats usually have multiple elements of visual interest to them that make them look better when worn with contrasting and plain trousers.

A pair of odd trousers would look more appropriate when paired with a patterned suit jacket than it would with a plain one.  (Pale Green Mini Carnation Oscar Wilde Boutonniere from Fort Belvedere.)

The reverse of this technique then, which is wearing a pair of patterned suit trousers with a plain odd jacket, is a bit more bold and unorthodox. Trousers, more often than not, serve to ground an outfit while the jacket will incorporate the majority of the pattern but this isn’t always the case. After all, you can look at morning dress or formal day wear for an example of a plain jacket paired with patterned trousers.

With this said, though, we wouldn’t recommend taking your patterned suit jacket or trousers and pairing them together with an odd garment that also has its own pattern. While it might work in some rare cases, this is probably going to result in an outfit with too many clashing patterns, which would look jarring to the eye.

A patterned suit jacket paired with an odd trouser that his own pattern would look jarring to the eye. (Houndstooth Bourette Silk Tie from Fort Belvedere)

Outfit #6: Using The Italian Spezzato Technique

Our final look today is something of an advanced form of the previous look. This is the Italian technique known as spezzato where elements of two suits are combined together. You could wear the jacket and waistcoat of a three-piece brown patterned suit with contrasting trousers. Conversely, you could wear the trousers and waistcoat of a three-piece suit with a contrasting jacket.

Matching waistcoat and trousers from a three-piece suit paired with a contrasting jacket. (White Linen Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere.)

As you can tell from those examples, it will help to reinforce your intent with this look if one or both of the suits that you’re meshing together has three pieces. This way, the waistcoat provides a bridging element that will help the two suits blend together across the body.

Conclusion

We hope that these outfit ideas have provided you with some general style inspiration as well as convinced you that a brown suit, whether patterned or indeed plain, should have a spot in your wardrobe.

Would you wear a brown suit in a business setting? Share your thoughts on this underrated menswear color in the comments section!

For over a year now as the newest addition to the on-camera team at the Gentleman’s Gazette, Kyle Thibodeaux has been instrumental in expanding our menswear horizons and creating great content for our widening audience. Today, the time has come for Kyle to share more of his personal story–and to answer questions from GG readers and viewers!

Video Transcript (Edited for Clarity)

Sven Raphael Schneider: Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette. In today’s video is all about Kyle Thibodeaux.

Kyle Thibodeaux: Hello. Yes, I’m Kyle. So, we’re going to be answering a few questions and it sounds like there have been some comments about me over the last year that I’ve been here so I’ll be answering some of those today.

SRS: And of course we’ll learn a bit about the background of you, Kyle.

KT: Yes!

SRS: Kyle’s been with us for a year now and he’s our on video host just like Preston and me and it’s just nice to learn more about you, where you’re coming from and what makes you, you.

KT: Happy to be here.

SRS: So without further ado, let’s jump right in. How old are you Kyle?

KT: So as of right now, I am 32 years old, turning 33 later this summer.

SRS: Got it. Okay. And are you originally from Minnesota?

KT: I’m originally from Minnesota. Born and raised.

Kyle has been with the Gentleman’s Gazette for over a year now.

SRS: Where were you born?

KT: Born in Minneapolis actually and then I kind of bounced around the Minneapolis; greater Minneapolis area and then when I got a little older, I spent some time in Illinois and then eventually came back to Minnesota.

SRS: Nice. And how did you get interested in classic menswear?

KT: You know, I was exposed to a lot of gentlemen wearing suiting from a younger age when I was in church and my dad would always be wearing suits. I’d see him putting on his tie and so that kind of started the interest, I think. From there, I think I just had an appreciation for both classic and a little bit of modern style. I didn’t really know it at the time when I was younger but I would say around the time that I was in my teens, I started working for Brooks Brothers, and that kind of reinstilled more of an interest in suiting and more classic suiting, rather. That’s probably where that started.

SRS: Obviously when you’re young, it takes a while to kind of find your style.

KT: Of course.

SRS: Did you ever wear things like LA Gears that were flashing, or did you have like a really bold style like punk or whatever? What was your style evolution?

A younger Kyle Thibodeaux.

KT: My style evolution. Boy! I remember when I was a kid, just because I grew up wearing a lot of Gap clothing; that’s my parents used to joke and say that they kept the Gap in business. We would always be dressed in Gap. So, I would wear a lot of things from them, a lot of denim but I would always be wearing a lot of polos, a lot of quarter zip polos, brighter colors, bright oranges, greens things like that. I remember wearing a lot of various sweaters, striped sweaters, it’s still kind of conservative. I’ve always been a little on the conservative side, a little on the preppy side in terms of how I dressed. That’s just how we were raised.

SRS: So bolder colors.

KT: Bolder colors. Yeah, I would experiment with those.

SRS: Nice! Of course, being black, high contrast really works for you. It’s just a nice look. Like beige tone-on-tone. I mean, it can work but those bold colors, it’s just a great look. I mean you have dark hair, lighter skin, I also like sometimes to have these bolder color combinations. They just work well. How did you find out about the Gentleman’s Gazette? Because we met first at, like MENfluential.

KT: Yeah, we did.

Kyle and Raphael were introduced to one another through Antonio Centeno of Real Men Real Style

SRS: You just walked in and we talked and you were like, “I’m from Minneapolis.” It was like, hey that’s cool. Like that’s the first person you’re meeting from Minneapolis and that’s how we hit it off.

KT: Yeah. Well, I first found out about Gentleman’s Gazette, maybe like many of you, from just scrolling around through YouTube and finding a lot of videos about menswear and then eventually stumbling into Raphael’s videos about Gentleman’s Gazette. And so when I was watching, I think actually a video from Real Men Real Style, he was listing a lot of different fellow YouTubers and menswear influencers and he mentioned Raphael and how he’s from. I think the St. Paul area and about a year or so later, I was then introduced to Raphael at MENfluential and we both, like, he just said, “I happen to be from the same area,” and so the rest is kind of history.

SRS: Nice. Thanks, Antonio! Now, many men have like style icons or people they look up to. Is there anything that comes to mind for you?

Kyle was born and raised in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

KT: I am a large fan of Ralph Lauren. I love the Ralph Lauren style, that kind of classic suiting style that they have even a more casual look. It’s very preppy. If I could get a shopping spree there, you can call me. I’m a huge fan of that place. But in terms of individuals, there’s a person who is pretty prevalent on social media these days. His name is Christopher Michael Corey. I love how he dresses, his fashion line is impeccable, and then someone out of London, I believe his name is Oswald Boateng. His suit line is really wonderful. I love looking at his items as well.

SRS: Yeah, I mean Oswald Boateng has been around for a while. He always had these bold colors and he was the first person who brought this kind of really bold style to Savile Row. If you don’t work and you don’t film videos, what do you do?

KT: What do I do? When I’m not working and when I’m not filming videos, well, I do enjoy occasionally going to the gym.

SRS: The one thing about Kyle is that he doesn’t just go to one gym but, how many memberships do you have right now?

Kyle wearing a patterned sweater and denim shirt–our #7 look for waxed cotton jackets!

KT: He won’t let me live this down! I believe right now I have three gym memberships. I do it just because I like the change in scenery, I like to be able to get a different feel, be in a different place. I don’t like being in one place forever. I like to be able to mix it up and so having those different gym memberships can of course get a little expensive but I do cycle through them. Sometimes I’ll freeze one and keep the others going but it allows me to visit some other locations and have a little more fun as I work out and not feel like I’m in a stable environment.

SRS: Pretty impressive. All right. Next up, let’s take some of the questions from our YouTube community. What was your upbringing like and when did you get really into menswear?

KT: Well, I was raised in a household where fashion played a large role. We were raised to make sure that we left the house looking well, just in case we ran into anybody. We weren’t really allowed to look too disheveled, necessarily.

SRS: No sweatpants and hoodies?

Kyle sporting a gray check blazer, dress shirt, pocket square, dark wash denim jeans, white sneakers

KT: Not usually. We could slide a little bit here or there but my parents were pretty big on making sure that we looked nice as much as possible and that has stayed true with me into adulthood. So, between that and seeing a gentleman wearing suits from a pretty young age at church and many other places as well, that’s really instilled I think a large interest in classic menswear.

SRS: What type of music do you listen to specifically and why?

KT: Probably depends on my mood and what I’m trying to do so if I’m at the gym or if I’m cleaning at home or things like that, I want something more upbeat that I can kind of have some energy that will keep me going so I really like EDM, things that are much more fast-paced so if I’m working out I enjoy that. If I want something a little bit more mellow, I’ll listen to maybe something that’s instrumental but growing up we listen to a lot of gospel, a lot of powerful vocals so I have a pretty wide range of interest when it comes to music but I would say, usually I find myself constantly listening to something more into the pop and EDM sound.

Kyle’s smart casual attire

SRS: Okay. So, next up is would you rather live in the past like the 20s or the 50s or reenact right now with suits and like the madman style, for example?

KT: It’s a good question. I would say, I would probably like to rather reenact it. I think it might be nice to visit for a moment but I would probably rather just reenact it with suiting in the moment. I like cell phones, I like air conditioning, I like, you know, more of the modern things that we have today so I would like to honor the past and their clothing styles but I don’t necessarily want to go back and live there.

SRS: Yeah, I’m pretty much the same. So on the same page there. Okay. Next question is, “I’m interested in knowing if Kyle enjoys reading and if so, what are his favorite books and authors, quotes and other experiences, and if there was a turning point in your life.” No traumatic childhood experiences?

KT: Nothing too traumatic.

SRS: Good!

Kyle is currently re-reading The Slight Edge by Jeff Olson.

KT: I do remember reading a lot of Ted Dekker books. He’s a fiction author that I really enjoyed sinking my teeth into a number of years ago and I would just read until the night. They’re really really good books. In terms of more non-fiction, more recently I’ve been flipping through, again, I haven’t read it in a few years but flipping through a book called The Slight Edge and I haven’t read that in a couple of years actually but I’ve picked it up again recently but have been flipping through that book as well and that’s been pretty good; kind of about looking at things from a different mindset. In terms of quotes, probably we’ll go back to more classical things I learned in church, so, “Do unto others that you would have them do unto you.” Things like that. I mean, things like that have stuck through with me ever since I was a little kid so I just hold on to those but haven’t had any too traumatic experiences in my life. In terms of a turning point, nothing major comes to mind that I want to speak of right now.

SRS: That’s fair. All right. Next question, “What do you think is the most important thing about dressing well and then as a side note, are you Cajun?”

KT: That’s a little interesting question. The most important thing about dressing well, I would say, it’s probably something I place in a lot of the videos that I’ve made with Gentleman’s Gazette up until now and it probably makes me sound like a bit of a broken record but I think it’s about understanding your fit and I think that once you understand how you can best dress yourself for your body size, it all becomes a lot easier and you look impeccable much more frequently. As far as, am I Cajun? No. My dad’s side of the family does come from Louisiana so I know that there is a connotation to the Cajun part of Louisiana and my last name, I personally, I can’t speak that, I’m sorry but no, I’m not Cajun.

Kyle believes that it is important to understand your body type and to know your fit to dress well.

SRS: Got it. Next question. A little more straightforward is, do you always dress up like an Indochino salesman?

KT: [Laughs] That’s a funny question. I wouldn’t say I always do that. I guess a little side answer to this answer if you were to look at my wardrobe and no I’m not a hoarder but if you look at my wardrobe for the about 16 years that I’ve been in retail and if I were to categorize everything from every place that I’ve worked, you would see this history of Brooks Brothers and J. Crew and Abercrombie and Indochino. So, at the time that I was filming a lot of the videos for Gentleman’s Gazette over this past year, about a year ago, I was working for Indochino. So, I did acquire a lot of suits from them and that’s probably why I look like that. But no, I don’t always dress that way.

SRS: Next up is, what is your “regret” piece that you currently still have in your wardrobe and you just haven’t thrown away yet for whatever reason?

KT: I’ve got a number of those, I’m sorry, I’m guilty here!

SRS: We all are.

KT: Yeah, we all have a couple of those, right? I have a pair of jeans that I purchased about 12 years ago and I am repeatedly telling myself that I will get back into those jeans

Kyle pairing his dark-washed denim jeans with some sweater and a waxed cotton jacket.

SRS: Goal pants.

KT: They’re goal pants! We’re gonna just keep them there just for whenever it happens but they don’t fit and it’s been about 10 plus years now but I’m gonna hang on to them just in case the wonderful day happens where I can just magically fit into these pants but they are still in my closet.

SRS: I’ve been guilty of that. Okay next up, how do you shave your head?

KT: Well, I like to do things at home and I’d like to make sure that I do it with a very low mess and in a way where I don’t end up looking like the punching bag of Wolverine. So, I like to take a pair of electric clippers and use them with no guard, get everything buzzed down really, really low and then I’ll take an electric shaver with the foil cover and then I’ll just buzz my head really, really close so it looks even right now like I might be bald at a distance but if you were to touch it, there’s kind of microscopic stubble there. So, I’m not completely bald.

Kyle looking dapper in a 2-piece suit with a grenadine tie and a white pockets square from Fort Belvedere.

SRS: What about the clipper and the shaver? What do you use?

KT: I believe both my clipper and shaver actually are manufactured by Wall. Both have really good quality, both get the job done. There are some others from different brands that’ll do the exact same thing, but I happen to like those myself.

SRS: So the clipper you use is dry and then the electric shaver wet or also dry?

KT: Dry as well.

SRS: Nice. How long does it take you?

KT: To make sure that I don’t have any odd patches in the back of my head, probably a little bit longer. So let’s say, 20 plus minutes or so just to make sure I get it done properly.

Kyle also uses The Art Of Shaving Beard Wash and Conditioner for his beard.

SRS: Have you ever tried wet shaving your head?

KT: I have tried it and thankfully I didn’t end up bleeding too much but I think just because of the rate of regrowth, it ended up becoming too messy for the sake of time and I ended up preferring to go dry.

SRS: Next one is: Hi Kyle, you’ve been a great addition to the Gentleman’s Gazette. You’ve added a flare of modernity to the team in my opinion. With that being said, how do you plan to integrate your modern style into classic menswear? For example, your recent jeans segment was fantastic.

KT: Well, thank you. That’s very nice of you to say. Nice to know that people are liking what you’re putting out. How do I plan on incorporating more modern style into classic menswear? I mean, I think a lot of it comes from me down to experimentation and seeing maybe bits and pieces of what is inspiring to me and seeing if I can pull it off myself. Maybe taking a part of one very traditional outfit and maybe adding the one element that’s more modern is something that I like to do from time to time so whether that be a more traditional jacket and a more casual pants style or mixing in a more casual shoe style, something like that.

Kyle sporting a casual look with a burgundy sweater, a dress shirt, dark washed jeans, and brown suede dress shoes.

SRS: So, based on what you’ve seen, someone asks: what do you do differently than Raphael or Preston? Where do you bend the rules in a way that they don’t?

KT: I think one very obvious way is that there were things that are very appropriate in terms of fit and I’m probably somebody who will suck the life out of my clothing at the tailor. So, that’s probably one of the more obvious differences between those two and myself but besides that, I think we have all a great appreciation for classic menswear rules.

SRS: What would you recommend for a college student to wear?

KT: I think that it’s probably going to be a mixed answer to kind of depending on the person’s personal style and the college that they may be or are going to. If it’s more of a preppy school and that’s the aesthetic that they’re going for, then I would probably want to aim them that way so looking at basic classic menswear staples like some great chinos, dress shirts, some great sweater options, some great summer shoes or fall shoes or boots that they can incorporate into their wardrobe and if they’re more casual and they’re more open to things that are a little bit more relaxed and modern, then we would be looking at denim.

Kyle started wearing his beard in his mid-20s.

SRS: Next up, when did you start wearing your beard or what age and how did you change your mindset?

KT: How did it change my mindset? Well, if I am guessing correctly because it’s been a while, it’s probably since around my mid-20s. I know that I was able to grow it when I was in my early 20s to late teens but I didn’t actually start wearing it then just because both my employer and my school at the time required that I’d be clean-shaven.

SRS: It was like the pre-hipster period.

KT: Yeah, yeah, a little bit. So I had to keep that clean cut. But when I started wearing that end, I would say I did notice people treating me a little bit more differently and that they thought I was older. I didn’t get chartered that much. In terms of how it changed my mindset possibly, I’m gonna think it makes me feel a little bit more mature, in terms of how I carry myself so that’s probably been the biggest difference.

SRS: Next up, what products do you use on your head and on your beard?

KT: Well, on my head, after washing and exfoliating my head, I’ll apply some kind of all-purpose body oil or right now I think I’m using like a Tea Tree and Vitamin E oil, just to kinda keep me from looking too dry and having my scalp flick out or something like that. That’s not great.

SRS: Like pure tea tree oil? ‘Cause that’s strong.

Can You Handlebar Initiative Beard Balm

KT: It’s strong. I don’t use a lot, just a little bit. That with vitamin E or something like that just to keep things moisturized. As for my beard, after washing, I’ll have a beard conditioner and I have a beard balm or oil that I use and I’ll mix that in and burst that into my beard as well.

SRS: Next up is, what are your favorite fragrances or scents, and do you have a signature one?

KT: I don’t have a signature scent probably the same way that I don’t have a favorite color. I have a lot of favorite colors and I have a lot of favorite scents but I would say one more reason that I have discovered this past year that’s become probably my new favorite for this year has been called Juniper Sling. It’s this wonderfully light scent. It’s perfect for summer. You can probably wear it on your round as well, too, but it’s delicious. I love it. I love wearing it all the time. I would get great compliments on it.

Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling – Kyle’s favorite scent at the moment

SRS: Awesome! Next up is, what are your favorite shoe brands or styles to wear?

KT: I would say my favorite shoe styles, I have a couple of them, but probably my top that I really enjoy wearing throughout the year are a double monk strap style and I really enjoy a Chelsea boot. I think those are fun to wear both in a semi-casual way and a very casual way and getting those in either leather or suede option as well too are great for me.

SRS: Next up, do you have any tips for bulkier dudes?

KT: That’s a good question! I would say, for myself, and what I like to recommend to guys when I see them coming to a store is making sure that you kinda watch it with horizontal stripes and also making sure that you are not wearing things that are too tight.

Kyle wearing a navy Blazer with Cream Knit Long Sleeves, white dress shirt paired with dark wash denim jeans, black boots and wine red medallion pocket square from Fort Belvedere.

SRS: How do you prefer to mix patterns?

KT: I prefer mix patterns by paying a lot of attention to scale so I’m not afraid to mix patterns. I don’t do it often but when I do decide to do that, I like to make sure that, for example, if I’m wearing a wider pattern suit that I’m wearing a more medium to small pattern shirt, for example. Changing up that scale helps to make sure that you don’t look like you’re wearing a piece of wallpaper and you have some dimension to your outfit.

SRS: Classic pattern matching rules.

KT: Yeah, exactly!

SRS: If you wanna learn more about pattern matching and scales, check out this video here. Next up are 2 questions. What is your favorite summer outfit and do you like to wear white pants? Are you part of the white pants trend?

KT: I am a part of the white pants trend as long as the material is thick enough so that I don’t look like I’m wearing see-through clothing so if that answers the question. I like it to that extent. My favorite summer outfit, I would say I really enjoy dressing for summer and for fall. So I don’t really have a complete one favor answer but I would say I really do enjoy wearing these cream and kind of off white long pants. I’ve done that with a green colored jacket or blazer to wear as well.

Kyle would wear white pants as long as they have the right thickness.

SRS: So, when is the fabric thick enough? Because in my experience, even a thicker fabric you can still see through it with your underwear if it’s not pretty close to your skin tone. It’s hard; you need some like jeans thick or what are we talking about here?

KT: I feel like it needs to be thick enough that when you check yourself out in the mirror, that you are A.) not able to see a lot of pocket lines from the front pockets and that, of course, you are not seeing any kind of underwear or boxer lines. So, checking things out like that in the brightest light that you can find and definitely in the mirror with the fitting room is gonna really help you out. Also, if you find that even if it’s on the fence, if you’re prone to sweating a lot, I would probably stir clear a little from that because you don’t want to look like you’re having problems throughout the day. So, if you find things that are thick enough, yes, more so like a denim type of thickness, that usually will work but if that ends up being too hot or something like that, you might want to find a different option altogether.

SRS: I think also when you wear a jacket, for example, the pants lining and underwear, it’s kind of a good point because you don’t see it anymore.

KT: You don’t see it. Yeah, you don’t see it but if you’re one who’s going to be taking off your jacket a lot keep that in mind.

Kyle looking good with his shorts.

SRS: Next up, what style trend will make a comeback in the upcoming year? Come on, you don’t know what the future holds?

KT: I don’t know. I’m always surprised to see what trickles back in style. I feel like these days the more Generation Z crowd is liking things from the 90s from when I was a kid. So, in terms of what’s going to be coming in on the more classic menswear side, we’re already seeing pleats come back in, we’re seeing higher-waisted trousers come back in, so I know he’s a big fan of that so maybe we’ll see more of a kind of influx and tie widths and lapel widths a little bit more. I’m not entirely sure but we’ll have to wait and see.

SRS: I mean, it has been a very slim trend for a while it’s pretty slim just being normal, I mean historically it would always go slim and wide and slim and wide so it’s about time to be a little wider again, I think.

KT: I do think so.

SRS: Next question is, what shoe size do you get?

KT: I would say 75% of the time I’m probably buying a size 12. Unless it is a manufacturer that has built their shoes on a very small last then maybe you’re looking for a size 13 or something like that but typically a size 12.

Kyle likes wearing Chelsea boots.

SRS: What’s your favorite dress code?

KT: I really enjoy things that are more semi-casual. I enjoy the ability to look professional but not feel so stuffy and buttoned up that I have to be concerned about you know moving um I like the ability to wear layers and be able to strip them down and still look good no matter how I am put together. So, it’s semi-casual for me.

SRS: Got it. Next question is, was it hard to lose your hair?

KT: Yes. Quick answer, yes. That was very irritating. Thankfully, to be positive and I’ll say that I’m very blessed that I have a well-shaped head so at least when I shave my head down, I don’t have people staring at me thinking that I have a very oblong-shaped head but I do miss having my hair. If I would ever show you a picture of what I used to look like, it’s very different but I do miss it, yes.

SRS: For me right now, I can tell like in the middle here, the hair is getting thinner and stuff. Where was it on your head that it started to get, like, balder?

KT: I would say, a little bit on the sides of my temples and then also in the very back, which I know is not uncommon but at a certain point, I just kind of had to bite it and say it looks worse to let it be where it is and I just shaved it all off. It just looks like you’re trying too hard, so it had to go.

Kyle pulls off a shaved head and beard with style.

SRS: Next up, how do you exude a sense of cool so strongly yet so effortlessly?

KT: That’s a great question. I love that question. Oh boy! Well, I’m certainly not trying to, I mean, if that’s what’s coming across, I’m happy about that but I mean, I guess I’m trying to be myself as much as possible and still be comfortable on camera. I am usually seen as somebody who’s more of a calm and peaceful person in the mix, so that’s not different necessarily that’s how I’ve always been. And I like to look nice and so I think if you mix those two together, maybe that’s what you’re seeing, but, no, it’s not me trying to do that.

SRS: Okay, next question is, were you ever a bouncer?

KT: That’s not the first time I’ve heard that question. No, I’ve never been, perhaps I should have been. This is like the fourth or fifth time someone has asked me that. Apparently, I’m a pretty intimidating looking individual maybe I would have made some extra money and be a bouncer, but, no, I’ve never done that

SRS: Okay next up, are you the voice of the Stitch Fix commercials in New York or New Jersey?

KT: That’s a very funny question. No, I’ve never heard these commercials but I laugh because when it comes to retail, I’ve also worked for Stitch Fix and I was a men’s stylist for a season a few years ago so although I’ve worked for the brand, I have not worked in that capacity so no, that’s not me.

Followers are happy with Kyle’s addition to the Gentleman’s Gazette team.

SRS: Next up, the Lightning Round! Knit ties or bow ties?

KT: Knit ties.

SRS: Loafers or boots?

KT: Boots.

SRS: Jeans or chinos?

KT: I have to say jeans.

SRS: Flat cap or fedora?

KT: Flat cap.

SRS: Trucker jacket or bomber jacket?

KT: Bomber jacket.

Kyle wearing a waxed cotton jacket with a neutral shirt and gray chinos

SRS: What is the most prized piece in your wardrobe that gets the least amount of wear?

KT: I would say, it is probably my navy officer’s coat. I’ve worn it a handful of times. I have been after that thing for such a long time and then when I finally bought it, I think I was a little too nervous about getting it dirty or something, so I’ve only worn it a handful of times and I love it and I always get really great compliments on it but I don’t work that often.

SRS: You wore it on video.

KT: I have worn it on a video. I love it.

SRS: it is nice that kind of v-shaped silhouette.

KT: Any kind of whether it’s a pea coat, or I don’t care what it is, if it’s got a big collar and big lapels, I’m buying it. I don’t care what color it is, I love those things. So, if you know of any, let me know but every year I always buy something like that.

SRS: Good answer because the next one is, where did you get that god-like navy coat gold buttons?

Kyle wearing his navy overcoat with gold buttons from Banana Republic. (Gloves and scarf from Fort Belvedere).

KT: There we go. Well, glad we’re all on the same page here with this coat. I love it, too. I actually, believe it or not, found that particular one at Banana Republic, and being as somebody who has worked inside of a mall for so many years, I kind of know when to look for things on sale and I was able to pick that one up for a very inexpensive amount and I love being able to find coats like that that are they look much more expensive than they actually are, but that one happens to be from Banana Republic.

SRS: I have a few questions for you as well just from personal, like interest, like what kind of car do you drive?

KT: Well as we are currently filming this, I am in the midst of car hunting right now so I might be getting something foreign. I have been looking at some Mercedes Benzes, I’ve been looking at some Audis. I’ve been looking at things a little bit more every day like your Honda or a Jeep so I’m kind of in the middle of searching right now but I plan to make a purchase soon. I’m leaning towards an Audi, though, I like those.

SRS: Yeah, me too but I mean, what did you drive before?

KT: Before that, I was driving an American car. It was a Pontiac, actually, so that one lasted me for a little while and it ended up dying out on me.

Kyle looking confidently dapper in his winter outerwear.

SRS: That’s funny because like Teresa used to have a Pontiac G6.

KT: Oh, really?

SRS: So, we drove a Pontiac, and then we went to Audi, too. So yeah, great minds think alike!

KT: We know what we’re doing here. This is good!

SRS: So, what kind of model is this kind of in your favorite lineup right now?

KT: Well if we’re talking, in my mind, I want an Audi R8 because I think I’m like the black Batman and I just want, in terms of what is more practical I probably would more like an Audi A4, perhaps a Q5, for a little more trunk space. I’ve been able to be in a few of those, and they all feel wonderful. So, at this point, it’s kind of just making sure that I choose what makes the most sense for me, but right now, it’s probably more like an A4 or Q5, I think.

SRS: Last but not the least, let’s take a brief look at some comments and stuff that kind of annoyed you or you thought was surprising when you read the comments at first.

KT: Okay.

Kyle sporting a burgundy overcoat.

SRS: What do you think?

KT: Well when I first started reading the comments, it was a little nerve-wracking just because you don’t know what you’re gonna get, you don’t know who’s watching and how they’re gonna react to everything, but surprisingly they were for the most part very friendly, good constructive criticism but very friendly, people who enjoyed, the change of having somebody different who had a different look, a different kind of style viewpoint, showing up on screen.

SRS: Somebody says: Kyle Thibodeaux – the younger, edgier gentleman. Kyle, You’re awesome!

KT: Well yeah, I can’t complain there. That’s great and I also remember people commenting about their enjoying my peaceful voice, so that’s nice, too.

SRS: Yeah this one says here, Kyle has been a great agent of the Gentleman’s Gazette team. Please feature him in more videos.

KT: Awesome. I love that!

Kyle looking dapper in a navy suit jacket and gray trousers ensemble. (Tie and pocket square from Fort Belvedere.)

SRS: Yeah. Here’s the one that says: Kyle, this is one of the best information pack 10-minute videos I’ve seen on Steve McQueen so far. Bravo to you. Would love to see more videos with you in such a matter of fact informational presentations. Excellent!

KT: Awesome. Thank you.

SRS: All right. I think I remember in MENfluential too, like a bunch of people were like “Oh it’s so awesome that you added Kyle,” so, I love that. People are like, “Yeah, it’s cool to have someone who is different,” right? And I wanted that because if you have people who all look the same, with the same physique, it’s just not that inspiring, right?

KT: Right.

SRS: So yeah, see who else we can bring on the team who’s different and we’re not always exactly the same but in a great way, you know, we wear jackets, right? We wear pocket squares, we like colors but in a different way.

KT: Right.

SRS: So, I think that’s really cool. Did you ever experience any like hurtful comments? I remember when we had Preston here, we read a bunch of negative comments and I think there always are negative comments. A lot of viewers don’t realize that because they don’t necessarily check out the comment section, but I think the lack of real names and the level of anonymity, just doesn’t bring out the best in people. So, was there a time when you kind of read through something and it kind of, you know, it hurt?

The three hosts of the Gentleman’s Gazette – Raphael. Kyle, and Preston. (Gloves and scarves from Fort Belvedere.)

KT: It hit you a little bit? Yeah, there have been a handful. I went into this, knowing that there was the potential for people to just be unnecessarily rude. Thankfully, I don’t think it’s been too out of control but it has happened and I have seen some that were a little more negative but I have to kind of remember that those are people who don’t know me and I don’t know them and they’re sitting on the other side of a computer screen as opposed to putting them on their own selves out on the front of the camera for everybody else to see, too. It’s a little bit of a different dynamic and I think they would probably have a different perspective that they were doing it themselves. So, you have to look at it like that.

SRS: All right. This is almost everything for today. Last question for Kyle, what’s a place that you’d like to travel to?

KT: Oh, that’s tough. If I can give a loaded answer, I will say I really, really, really want to go to South America and I also really want to go to Europe and just kind of travel all over Europe. But as far as where in South America, Brazil and Argentina are probably of my two top areas, but there’s a host of places all over Europe, there’s South Africa, there’s Asia, I mean I want to go everywhere, so it’s a very tough thing to answer. I want to go everywhere.

SRS: See you around and see our next videos.

SRS & KT: Bye-bye.

What else do you want to know about Kyle? Let us know in the comments section!

When people first come into classic menswear, they usually think of dealing with suits. The advice to start building a tailored wardrobe is usually to begin by getting a navy suit, often followed by one in charcoal gray. Meanwhile, sport coats, also called sport jackets, sports coats or sports jackets get somewhat less attention when first building that introductory level menswear wardrobe.

Sport coats, of course, are odd jackets designed to be worn with non-matching trousers and even if you do have a decent number of sport coats in your own collection, the average layperson is probably going to compliment you on the street by saying, “nice suit” or “I like your suit,” because they might not be aware of the differences. Today, though, we’ll boost the profile of sport coats a bit and give them their proper due by discussing five advantages that a sport coat can have over a conventional suit in some situations.

History of Sport Coats

Since they originated, they have been considered somewhat secondary to full suits especially on the scale of formality because they are inherently more casual. They originally appeared in the latter half of the 19th century to be worn for outdoor sporting events such as hunting, fishing, or horseback riding. So, definitely not for business wear.

Sport coats are odd jackets designed to be worn with non-matching trousers. (bow tie and pocket square from Fort Belvedere)

More specifically, they started with the Norfolk jacket which was designed for shooting parties. The origins of this jacket style are a bit more muddied. This style was later adapted into a slightly shorter jacket with fewer buttons and this was the beginning of the modern sport coat.

As it can be difficult to tell it apart from other outerwear, our guide to the differences between suit jackets, sport coats, and blazers defines each type of jacket to clear up the thin line of confusion between their somewhat similar characteristics.

Early Full Norfolk Ensemble

5 Advantages of A Sport Coat vs. A Suit

1. People won’t assume you’re from the office.

When you’re wearing a sport coat, people won’t automatically assume that you’ve just come from the office. The roots of the sport coat reveal this first advantage that it has over a suit because it wasn’t originally designed to be business wear. Therefore it can now be worn in a wider variety of situations and settings. Even though it is now considered appropriate for many business environments and can often be worn with a tie in the business casual dress code, the more casual connotations of the garment still remain.

Sport coats still have connotations of being casual to this day even when worn with a tie for a business casual look.

For off-duty wear then, it is simply less conservative and formal. If you’re going somewhere dressed in a full suit, most people’s automatic assumption is going to be that you’re a businessman on his way to or from the office. Meanwhile, if you’re wearing a sport coat with odd trousers, people may still think or compliment you on this suit, but they’re not going to associate it immediately with business wear.

Bolder suit jackets can also be worn like sport coats.

2. A sport coat fits into the business casual dress code. 

Given that a sport coat is less formal than a suit, you can wear it in a largely business casual workplace and not feel overdressed or overly formal. Many workplaces these days are already quite casual as a default so if you show up to a casual office wearing a full suit all the time, you’re going to be violating some of the unspoken norms of the office by so drastically overdressing your peers.

However, if the typical dress code of your office features things like oxford cloth button-down shirts and chinos, throwing on a sport coat over the top of this isn’t going to be seen as too formal. So, with a sport coat, you can indulge your interest in classic menswear in the office without sticking out like a sore thumb, especially if you go further into the casual mold by wearing the sport coat without a tie.

Wearing a three-piece suit in a business casual setting would be a “violation” to the unspoken norm of the office – as you’d be overdressing your peers. (accessories from Fort Belvedere)

And, during and following the COVID-19 pandemic which is going on at the time of this post’s writing, workplaces are probably going to become a bit more casual as a result. So, this is especially important to keep in mind. Plus, putting on a sport coat for a Zoom meeting at home is probably going to be seen as more natural than putting on a full suit, for one, and I can back this up with personal experience.

You can pair your sport coat with chinos and a tie for a business casual look. (knit tie, pocket square & boutonniere from Fort Belvedere.)

3. A sport coat is easier to dress down.

Sport coats generally have more casual features than suit jackets and even most blazers. For example, they often have soft shoulders without much padding, patch pockets and they’re not made from smooth worsted wool, instead, being made from fibers like linen or cotton in warm weather, and tweed in cold weather. Whether it’s the rougher texture of a tweed jacket or the elegant wrinkling of linen, sport coats are typically just going to look more laid back than a worsted wool suit jacket would.

A sport coat is much easier to dress down because it’s more casual than a blazer or a suit jacket. (accessories from Fort Belvedere.)

As we mentioned, with a sport coat you can often choose to skip a tie and wear a shirt with a pattern like stripes or checks. Meanwhile wearing a suit without a tie is going to look somewhat incomplete most of the time especially if your shirt doesn’t have a pattern. Again, a sport coat can be worn in a wide variety of settings. It is appropriate for some offices but it’s also equally at home, at the movies, out with friends for drinks, or on the weekends. It can even be worn in some circumstances with jeans, and we share some outfit ideas of this mold in our jackets and jeans pairing guide.

In a world where dressing casually is becoming the norm and fewer and fewer people pride themselves on looking sharp, you can put on a sport coat and a pair of odd trousers and still probably be the best-dressed person in the room, even though you’re not wearing a full three-piece suit, for instance.

Kyle wearing a sport coat, denim shirt, and a pair of chinos.

4. A sport coat has greater durability than a suit.

As they were originally designed for outdoor activities, the fabrics used to make many sport coats are often thicker and more durable than that for suits. Meanwhile, the standard business suit is made of worsted wool and the super wools in particular, something like super 130s or above, are going to be very fine and thin. While these smooth weaves will give you a refined and formal appearance, they’re probably going to wear out faster.

On the other hand, when you think of conventional sport coat fabrics, the first one to come to mind is probably going to be tweed, which is much thicker. In fact, there is even a so-called thorn-proof tweed which was designed to stand up to potential rips and tears from thorns and brambles in the countryside. Other hard-wearing fabrics typical to sport coats are things like corduroy in the winter months and to a lesser extent seersucker and linen in the summer.

Tweed sport coats are usually durable because the fabric is thick.

The smooth worsted wool of a suit jacket will also probably show stains more easily. If you happen to spill coffee or barbecue sauce on your suit, you may need to bring it into the dry cleaner. Though if you are of a more courageous sort, you could also try laundering your suits at home.

Conversely, sport coats tend to be woven to create more texture like a bird’s eye or a basketweave and they’re more likely to contain a pattern like a houndstooth or a Prince of Wales check or a herringbone that might be too casual for some business suits. These textures and patterns can hide dirt stains and minor imperfections in the weave over time so you won’t have to bring things to a dry cleaner or launder them yourself as often, which will increase the overall longevity of the garment.

Super wool.

And of course, it will also likely be easier on your wallet. The pants of a suit will also wear out faster than the jacket will because of friction created from things like sitting or if you’ve got larger thighs – if they happen to rub together while you’re walking. So, unless you thought ahead or bought a custom suit with an additional pair of trousers you may ultimately end up with a jacket that you won’t want to wear, as orphaned suit jackets often are a bit too plain to be worn with much visual dynamism in outfits.

Meanwhile, if a sport coat is wearing out one of the areas where it’s likely to show where first is in the elbows. This isn’t a problem, however, as you can simply get elbow patches for a more Ivy League look. On the other hand, a suit coat with elbow patches is probably going to look a little bit discordant in terms of overall formality.

You can still wear your sport coats with elbow patches for an Ivy League look.

5. A sport coat allows more style possibilities.

Finally today, the sport coat’s fifth advantage is that it’s likely going to open the door to a wider range of exciting style possibilities. Aside from the practical considerations we’ve already outlined, one of the other major advantages of a sport coat is that it’s going to allow a gentleman to get into more different style scenarios. This isn’t to say that suits are stylistically limiting, of course, but simply that sport coats open the door to an even wider array of options.

For example, if you’re fond of patterns, a sport coat will allow you to use them on a larger scale than just in your accessories. While a whole suit with a windowpane pattern might be too bold or loud, on your upper half only it can certainly work. In other words, pattern is expected when it comes to sport coats.

A sport coat opens a lot of possibilities in style. (tie and pocket square from Fort Belvedere)

In another example, simply by adding a pair of odd trousers to be worn with the sport coat, you introduce more complexity and stylistic opportunities. Because a suit is a uniform top and bottom, you don’t have as many opportunities to mix and match unless you’re deliberately going with the spezzato style.

When it comes to odd trousers though, you could experiment with things like corduroys in the winter months and in the summer go with chinos or maybe even a step further into go-to-hell pants. As an example here, you could wear a sport coat with a Prince of Wales check featuring an over plaid in a particular color. Then, if that color is replicated in your trousers or elsewhere in the outfit, it creates a dynamic look with visual interest that’s still harmonious. 

Given the wide variety of options that it allows, a sport coat can often be the preferred choice for experienced dressers. Speaking for myself, I do find that the combination of a sports coat or blazer with odd trousers is more versatile and can be more creative than a full suit often would be.

Raphael wearing a Nantucket Red chinos with a blue and white sport coat, linen pocket square, and red and blue tie from Fort Belvedere.

Conclusion

So while a suit may be an easier option because you’re simply pairing a jacket, trousers, and optional waistcoat together all in the same fabric, the sport coat will allow for more creativity overall and it’s more versatile when it comes to formality. With these five advantages, then, sport coats are definitely appreciated by aficionados of classic men’s style.

Is a sport coat also a better option for you? Or are you giving it a fair assessment as a suit? Share your thoughts in the comments!

Sweaters are a great way to add some complexity to your overall look, and as we enter the fall-winter season, it’s always going to be helpful to have some great sweater outfit ideas in your back pocket that will work for a variety of situations.

A Short History of Sweaters

We can see as far back as the 15th century that fishermen actually wore sweaters, which were actually a very helpful tool in helping protect them from the elements while they were out at sea. Sweaters became popular in the 1890s. Around that time, the sweater was actually a very dark and heavy pullover which athletes would wear before and after a contest.

Sweater fashion is recognized as something other than a garment to keep warm in the 1920s.

In the 1920s, we see high-end designers begin to introduce sweaters into their collections, and in 1921, the trend-setting Prince of Wales was given a Fair Isle sweater, which he then wore out in public and made quite popular. In the same decade, the young playwright Noel Coward popularized the turtleneck, also known as the polo neck sweater.

Types of Sweater

Other than the fact that it’s a garment to keep us warm, a sweater is also a great opportunity to inject some dimension and seasonality into your looks. Because we’re wearing layers, we can easily take a layer off and stay cool while still looking properly dressed.

A silk-wool pocket square with an animal motif front Fort Belvedere paired with a tweed jacket and a turtleneck sweater.

First and foremost, it’s important to remember that sweaters might not always be called sweaters, depending on where you’re from. Sometimes they’re called jumpers or even pullovers. There are a variety of different types of sweater styles, as well, and not all of them will stop at the base of your neck. For example, some will actually cover all or part of your neck, like a turtleneck. 

There are a number of different materials that are used to create sweaters, but some of the more popular materials include wool, alpaca, cashmere, cotton, and linen. To get the best benefits of a sweater, try to avoid polyester or synthetic fibers. They don’t last as long and they actually will make you feel a little bit too warm as these materials don’t breathe as well. It’s very tempting to purchase these materials in your sweaters because they’re made available all over the place but it’s best to stick to quality materials as these will offer you the most longevity.

Polyester and Synthetics are rarely designed to last and are often intended to be thrown away after a few years of wear.

There are a variety of different styles of sweaters made available. Some extremely modern and almost futuristic and some very classic. Some of the more popular styles that you might find in many stores include the crew neck, v-neck, turtleneck, a shawl collar, a cardigan, a half-zip, a tennis sweater, or a commando, which is also known as a woolly pully.

It’s important to remember that any zippered style sweater will look much more modern and sporty than other styles. This isn’t a bad thing, but it’s important to keep in mind if you are trying to assemble a more fully classic outfit.

Knit Sweaters

Bottle Green cable knit sweater with a brown striped tie by Fort Belvedere

There are a few popular knit options that are made available in sweaters. Solid colored sweaters can be knitted from a single color thread or from a range of colors to add some depth. There’s also Fair Isle, which uses bold colors and Scottish patterns to create a bold and unique design. Another type is Aran, which is a net that uses wider thicker patterns to create a more three-dimensional look in a solid color. Lastly, cable knit is a classic pattern that imitates a two-stranded rope, and it usually comes in a solid color.

What Makes A Good Sweater?

A good sweater is one that will be worth its material used in construction and also in its overall durability. It will be timeless and offer a great fit. It should not peel too much, and it also shouldn’t feature large brand logos or any, if you can avoid it. Our comprehensive guide to sweaters covers more of these characteristics as well.

A good sweater is worth the price in terms of the quality of the materials, the construction, the durability, and a timeless cut and pattern.

The ideal fit is neither too loose nor too tight and should be right for your body type. It should cover your waist without going past your seat. Your sweater sleeves should be long enough that they fall naturally at your wrists but not so loose that you end up flying away. The shoulder seams should fall just at the edge of your shoulders. You should ideally have enough room to wear a shirt below the sweater if you choose.

There are many ways men decide to incorporate a sweater into their outfit. In addition to wearing the correct fit, it’s also important to prioritize wearing the correct colors and patterns that make the most sense for you and your wardrobe. I have found that primarily sticking to solid and neutral colors make the most sense for my wardrobe. This is the same rule for those who are unsure of what to purchase.

A sweater should fit you properly and when in doubt of the color — go solid or neutral!

This allows your wardrobe to maintain greater longevity over time instead of buying colors that are a little bit too trendy. Once you have built some foundation in your solid and neutral sweater collection, then start looking into certain patterns or knits that you might enjoy.

10 Sweater Outfit Ideas

1. Crew Neck Sweater & A Sport Coat

This is a simple outfit that can be personalized by the type of sport coat you wear and the color or pattern of shirt you may choose to wear below your sweater. It should, of course, complement the color of your sweater. If you’re unsure what color of sport coat to wear, you can always choose a navy blue. The navy blue is going to look great a majority of the time. You could also try a pattern sport coat and coordinate your shoes and belt with that coat.

Kyle wearing a navy blue sport coat, beige crew neck sweater, and a check shirt with Wine Red Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere.

2. Crew Neck Sweater, Chino Pants & A Low Top Sneaker

This classic casual outfit with sneakers is great with a very clean-cut sweater instead of a very excessively thick and chunky sweater. Sometimes, though, I’ll cheat and wear this outfit with my thick cable knit sweater. Ideally, a clean-cut sweater is the best choice. The reason why a clean-cut sweater will be ideal is that you typically aren’t going to be wearing a top layer above your sweater, so those excessive rolls from the extra fabric will start to look a little bit sloppy overall in your outfit. 

The combination of white crew-neck sweater and brown chinos makes a relaxed look; balanced with more relaxed shoes.

3. V-Neck Sweater with A Patterned Shirt

Make sure that the color in the patterned shirt complements the color in the sweater you’re choosing to wear. This will be great with everything from jeans to even chino pants. You could always try adding a dress shoe or a dress boot to elevate this outfit a little bit.

Classic black v-neck sweater combined with a black and white check shirt.

4. Turtleneck Sweater & Trousers

This outfit can appear rather fun and whimsical or even a bit conservative, depending on the kind of colors and fit you might choose in this entire outfit. Depending on your day’s events, you can also consider wearing dark wash denim in this outfit as well. For a sharp look, consider adding in a jacket color of your choice, which complements your turtleneck.

Raphael wearing a tan turtleneck sweater, black trouser, and brown suede leather shoes

5. Turtleneck Sweater & A Sport Coat

This outfit is definitely one of my favorites to use. It’s very easy to put together as it can be very colorful or could also be very dark and monochromatic, depending on how you want things to look.

Checked sport coat and a gray turtleneck sweater with white linen pocket square from Fort Belvedere

6. Cable Knit Sweater & Beige Pants

This outfit can be kept fairly neutral and monochromatic by keeping the sweater in close color tone with the pants you’re choosing to wear or you can break things up by wearing a sweater of a bold color that’s going to contrast the pants. You can also add in a fun colored pair of socks to complement your outfit.

A cozy off-white cable knit sweater paired with beige pants for warmth and comfort look.

7. All Black: Pants, Sweaters & Boots

This is also another one of my favorites, and the reason is, it’s very difficult to look bad in this outfit. Just about anybody could pull this look off. Then make sure the tone of the blacks you intend to wear in your entire outfit are ideally of the same depth. You don’t want to leave home and look like you’re wearing 18 different shades of the same color.

This combination of a black sweater, black dress pants, and shoes makes a man look polished and smart.

8. Brightly Colored Sweater & A Patterned Coat or Trousers

Here, we have a whimsical outfit. This is going to have a brightly colored sweater and a lot of patterns and different textures, possibly in your sport coat and in your trousers. Make sure you incorporate some fun socks and pocket squares to add a little bit of extra flair to this outfit.

This outfit is really up to how confident you are as the wearer and how you combine different patterns and colors and textures. I’ve seen people that dress this way that turns my head for two different reasons: on the one hand, there are those who simply seem to just get it in terms of how they put together their outfits and mix colors and patterns without going overboard, and then there are those who maybe don’t get it as much and went maybe a little bit too far with how many colors or how many patterns they might have been wearing in one outfit. This is where it’s a bit distracting to drivers having these people walk around down the street. It’s a lot going on.

9. Full-Zip Sweater with Jeans & Dress Boots

It’s important to note that the zipper does take a little bit away from the classic sweater look and leans itself much more into the modern category. If this is something that’s going to bother you, it’s best to probably skip this sweater style and maybe swap this out for something like a v-neck or even a shawl collar.

A casual fashion mix of a gray full-zip sweater, checked shirt, navy blue jeans, and black dress shoes.

10. The Fair Isle Sweater

In this outfit, it’s best to try to find the base color and the sweater and wear pants and perhaps even a sport coat that can complement everything around that sweater so everything looks a little bit more cohesive. And because this is a very unique and bold pattern sweater, it’s important to let this sweater be the loudest talking point in your outfit.

Brown sport coat with fair isle sweater and Fort Belvedere accessories

Bonus Tip: Accessorize!

It is not mandatory to add a lot of extra items into your outfit, but doing so is a fantastic way to separate yourself away from others who might be wearing a very similar outfit. Try wearing sunglasses, a ring, a watch, a hat when it’s appropriate, cufflinks, socks, or pocket squares. 

Conclusion

It’s important to recognize the flexibility that sweaters can offer you in your wardrobe. Although the sweater can be seen as a much more casual garment, it can be now worn in a variety of settings. Once you have determined the ideal fit of sweater you should be wearing, start building your sweater collection with solid and neutral colors first, as these will offer you the greatest amount of versatility. Feel free to take some time and find out which styles you prefer. Finally, don’t forget to personalize your outfit a bit – take a look at the Fort Belvedere shop for pocket squares, cufflinks, socks, and more.

Kyle wearing a green wool double-breasted jacket, camel wool sweater, and olive green leather boots.

What’s your favorite sweater style and how do you like to wear it? Let’s talk about it in the comments!

When it comes to color pairings in menswear, perhaps few have been so commonly utilized by presidents, businessmen, Hollywood stars, and the common man alike as gray and red. The two hues play especially well off of each other, as the neutral gray provides a solid base, and the slightly bolder primary color, red, can draw a bit more attention. Read on for our top tips!

Red and gray present a striking and authoritative mixture that goes back at least as far as the Middle Ages, where architects would use these two colors in concert with one another to build places of worship and other buildings of significance. In a modern clothing context, not only do grey and red work well together in formal settings but they can also allow the wearer to stand out a bit if desired in casual settings.

Smart Outfit Ideas with Gray & Red

1. Suit & Tie

Perhaps the easiest way to pair these two colors together is via the use of a suit and tie. We’ll start here with the example of a charcoal gray suit paired with a red tie. As we’ve gone over numerous times before, charcoal is both a formal color for suiting but also especially versatile and when paired with the bolder pop of a red tie which can draw a bit more attention to the face, the pairing works well.

Given that studies show red is a color that helps to evoke both excitement and trustworthiness, wearing a shade of red in your tie might be an effective choice for a presentation. Of course, you’ve got a wide variety of options when it comes to red ties both in shades ranging from bolder truer red down to burgundy and in what the tie looks like, whether it’s got a small pattern like a geometric print or perhaps paisley; whether it’s a knit tie and so on.

A charcoal gray suit with a Madder Silk Tie in Dark Ruby Red and white pocket square combination.

Working within the same basic outfit mold as the last but going slightly less formal, you could exchange the charcoal gray suit for one in medium or even light gray and if you’d like to add an extra element of style, you could even consider a suit that incorporates both colors. For example, a glen check suit that features a red overplaid. This would be further accented by wearing the red tie for a lower contrast outfit and especially good for grey suits that have cooler tones, you could also consider a patterned red tie that incorporates some blue.

As you’ve probably gathered by now, gray suits can be paired easily with a wide variety of different ties and indeed shirt colors, which is discussed further in our guide on How to Pair Shirts & Ties with Gray Suits. And for an additional and especially unique touch, you could consider adding a contrasting or odd waistcoat to the outfit, something in maroon or burgundy red would stay within the established color palette but also look quite smart and again, unique. 

A grey suit paired with a Silk Tie in Jacquard Burgundy Red with White Polka Dots, a white collared shirt, a white boutonniere, and a white pocket square.

2. Sport Coat & Odd Trousers

Let’s move now from suits into slightly more casual combinations of sport coats and odd trousers. A prime example here that would be particularly good for the colder fall and winter seasons would be a burgundy sport coat paired with gray flannel pants. A burgundy sport coat is always going to be somewhat eye-catching of course, though certainly less so than a bolder true red color but again, the gray flannel trousers will help to ground and neutralize the outfit somewhat so it won’t look too bold overall.

Burgundy sport coat and flannel trousers

So long as you’re already working within a more business casual to smart casual dress code, you might consider incorporating some pattern into your shirt perhaps in a grey color with gingham or a small stripe. To translate this fall and winter look into a more spring and summer feel, you could instead go with a brighter perhaps more pastel linen jacket in red and then pair with either grey trousers or a grey polo shirt and contrasting trousers in another color that still works within the outfit. 

Whether wearing a suit or a combination featuring a sport coat and odd trousers, you can of course, further enhance the color pairing by use of your accessories and your footwear. Consider perhaps oxblood shoes and red accessories like a carnation boutonniere and a pocket square with some red color tones. And if you’re feeling especially bold, something like a Winchester shirt featuring red and white stripes would fit the bill for these types of outfits.

You can further enhance the color pairing with your shoes and accessories. A good example would be a red carnation boutonniere and a pocket square with tones of red.

3. Sweater & Odd Trousers

Returning to fall and winter outfits for a moment, but going even more casual, you could substitute the sport coat for a sweater or cardigan in red. You’ll most likely be able to find slightly brighter color options here than just maroons or burgundies, and you could also consider different styles such as a tennis sweater or shawl-collared cardigan. Other options would include a v-neck sweater, again, paired with a red tie or changing up the colors in the different elements, and going with a gray sweater with red trousers or a gray sweater with a red patterned shirt and neutral trousers.

You can also pair a red sweater with gray odd trousers. (knit tie from Fort Belvedere)

Red trouser options to pair with a grey sweater would include things like chino pants or even corduroys. Depending on the boldness of the red color, you could verge into the territory of go to hell pants if you so chose. Further driving home, the color pairing with an overall casual feel would be adding something like grey suede shoes to the mix here.

Red chino pants can also be paired with a gray sweater.

4. Dress Shirt & Chinos

If you’re looking for something even more casual and a bit more Americana-inspired, you could go with gray chino pants paired with a red gingham pattern shirt or perhaps even a burgundy corduroy shirt for something especially rustic.

Think of pairing with things like leather jackets here for something that’s more rugged but still within the overall umbrella of classic menswear.

You can go for grey chino pants paired with a red gingham pattern shirt for a more casual and Americana-inspired look.

Grey & Red Pairing Do’s and Don’ts

1. Don’t Wear Maroon Dress Shirts

A mistake that many men make when first getting into menswear is to buy solid colored dress shirts in dark jewel tones including maroon, often in an especially shiny satin finish. Not only will the contrast be a bit too overwhelming in a formal outfit, but it will also cheapen the ensemble overall if you are to wear a shirt like this. It would of course be more commonly seen in settings like a high school prom or perhaps a Scarface Halloween costume and those definitely aren’t the associations you’ll want to go for.

Al Pacino wearing a maroon dress shirt in the 1983 film Scarface. (Image Credit: Universal Pictures)

This, of course, is especially true when paired with a necktie of the same color. Overall, we would generally recommend keeping your shirts lighter than the colors of your jackets and or full suits to keep the outfit looking harmonious and to flatter your silhouette.

Wear shirts with lighter colors than your jackets or suits for a harmonious look. (Ancient Madder Silk Paisley Bow Tie from Fort Belvedere)

2. Do Focus More on Gray for Formal Outfits

Our next tip is that the more formal you want your outfit to be, the more it should focus on gray and less so on red. As mentioned previously, gray is a neutral color that helps to ground an outfit and is a staple of formal wear, whereas red is naturally bolder and should really best be used for accent pieces and accessories, especially to draw attention toward the face. Having one to three red accessories at least near the face is probably as much as you’re going to want and again, the darker the red the more formal it will become.

We recommend wearing gray for formal settings as red tends to be a bit bolder.

As we mention in our guide to Pairing Gray and Blue, you can almost equally wear ensembles featuring gray suits and blue shirts as well as blue suits with gray shirts. However, the same really isn’t true when discussing gray and red. While you can certainly wear suits in different shades of grey with shirts that incorporate red, wearing a red suit with a gray shirt isn’t a look we’d recommend.

The bottom line here is that a red suit is really just going to fall outside the parameters of truly classic menswear; more commonly seen on figures like The Joker or a bold peacock at the Pitti Uomo event in Italy. It can be pulled off in showy situations like this, but in day-to-day life for most men, you’re probably going to feel safer and, frankly, look better sticking to more classic combinations like a grey suit and a shirt with tones of red.

A three-piece charcoal gray suit combined with red-toned accessories.

3. Do Keep Statement Pieces to a Minimum

We alluded to this tip a moment ago but again, it’s important to reinforce that you shouldn’t wear too many statement pieces simultaneously in an outfit of this nature. Red is a naturally bold and eye-catching color, so having too many accessories or outfit elements at once will probably make the outfit look overwhelmed. You could consider capping off one of these outfits with something like a maroon fedora, red driving gloves, or again a red carnation boutonniere, but don’t wear all three of these together so you won’t come across as looking like a Dick Tracy villain.

Racing Red and Sand Driving Gloves in Lamb Nappa Leather by Fort Belvedere

4. Do Choose Pieces That Feature Both Grey & Red

As a final overall tip here another point we alluded to previously: try to find pieces that contain both colors as they’ll work especially well in outfits where you’re pairing them together elsewhere. For example, you could find ties featuring repp stripes in gray and red or perhaps a gray micro pattern on a red ground. And again, finding a suit in a shade of grey with an overcheck or perhaps a subtle stripe in a red tone will look especially smart in outfits featuring this color pairing.

Shantung Striped Dark Red, Blue, and White Silk Tie – Fort Belvedere

Gray & Red Outfits for Cooler Months

1. Overcoat & Scarf

Let’s return to a few more outfit examples, putting on more layers for colder seasons. Perhaps the easiest way to incorporate this color pairing into the realm of outerwear is to start with an overcoat in grey and then adding a red-toned scarf.

While you could also consider incorporating headwear featuring red tones like a fedora or newsboy cap, these won’t be quite as commonly found and they might again look a little bit flashy if others aren’t accustomed to seeing you in these kinds of color pairings.

You can pair a grey overcoat with a scarf that has a touch of red.

2. Tweed Sport Coat with Sweater

While we mentioned outfits featuring sport coats or sweaters before, you could of course pair them together for an outfit that will feature another layer to keep you warm. Something like a grey tweed sport coat with a red-toned sweater underneath would of course look especially smart.

For layers, you can pair a tweed sport coat and a sweater or cardigan with a touch of red along with your white shirt. (tie, boutonniere, and pocket square from Fort Belvedere.)

3. Red Overcoat

If you would like to go for an especially bold option here, you could consider a red overcoat. Something like this isn’t going to be an especially versatile choice for outerwear of course, but it could work as a statement piece and since you won’t be wearing it all day like you would be with a red suit but instead taking it off once you get indoors, the overall effect won’t be quite so jarring.

Kyle sporting a burgundy overcoat and burgundy scarf.

Footwear for Gray & Red Outfits

Red Shoes

To finish things up today one final area of the outfit to discuss when considering this gray and red color pairing would, of course, be footwear. The most traditional choice here would likely be an oxford shoe in an oxblood or dark red color made from Cordovan leather.

You can complete your look with a pair of oxford shoes in oxblood color.

There are many other options for red-toned footwear whether in the style of shoe, including a Derby or even a loafer, or perhaps even boots and in the color not only going with the dark red or burgundy tones but also a more bold true red. Of course, you don’t have to go with the more expensive and somewhat more temperamental Cordovan leather, you could just go with standard calfskin as well.

Allen Edmond Norwich Cordovan Monk Strap

Gray Shoes

While grey leather shoes are somewhat rare and not especially versatile, a grey suede shoe could work well in casual and even some business casual settings. Grey leather sneakers could be worn in casual ensembles for a more fashion-forward style and of course, you can change up the look of almost any shoe by incorporating colored shoelaces, so red would be a natural choice here.

A pair of gray suede shoes will work in both casual and business casual settings.

Moving from shoes to socks, matching the tone of your socks to that of your trousers is of course the most conservative choice but you could go for bolder options incorporating more red if you so chose. And again, wearing a sock that features both gray and red tones such as a pair of shadow striped socks would be another smart choice.

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks from Fort Belvedere.

Conclusion

Overall, the neutral and grounding gray paired with the slightly bolder red makes for a smart combination that’s going to work during different seasons and at various levels of the formality scale.

How do you like to wear grey and red together? We’re interested to know your favorite pairings, so share it in the comments!

While it’s often ungentlemanly behavior to discuss others in a bad light (and to attempt to feel superior to them by doing so), we believe that striving to be superior to your former self is worthwhile. In that spirit, today’s video is something fun and unique: a reaction to a video of ours from 3 years ago, “19 Things Men Should Never Wear!”

Video Transcript [Edited for Clarity]

You might have noticed reaction videos are really popular and so we thought about what we could do on our channel. Of course, the first question we asked was, is it really gentlemanly to talk maybe negatively about others on such a platform? There’s this great quote from Ernest Hemingway saying, “There’s no nobility in being superior to some other man. The true nobility is being superior to your previous self.” So, in that spirit, we decided to do a reaction video about a former video I filmed where things have changed.

A great quote by Ernest Hemingway.

Over time, we all grow and get better and if you look at our YouTube channel, sometimes people delete early videos. On the Gentleman’s Gazette, we decided to leave every video up to show you how we progressed from the very beginning to where we are today. So, why react to 19 Things Men Should Never Wear? Well, on the one hand, it’s a very polarizing title. On the other hand, the video is three years old, so things have changed and hopefully, I have evolved, too. And lastly, the thought behind the video originally was to create something that attracts people interested in classic men’s style and detracts people who are not interested in it.

So, without further ado, let’s have a look. “Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette. In today’s video, we discuss 19 things men should never wear especially if you’re stylish or dapper.” Video hasn’t changed much or at least the intro is still the same. Maybe it’s time to redo that! “I know some of you will say, in this day and age, I can wear whatever I want and you’re quite right. Today, you can wear whatever you want at the same time, you can also inhale asbestos or you can drink water from lead pipes, but just because you can doesn’t mean you should. Now that we got that straight away, let’s start…” Definitely true today.

We looked back to an old video with the most reactions – to see what has changed since then.

19 Things Men Should Never Wear

1. Flip Flops & Sandals

“The first thing you should never wear as a man are sandals. They look particularly bad when you combine them with socks but even on their own, there may be something that people who are really into outdoor stuff wear however if you consider…” Yeah, I’m still with that 100%.

One thing I do notice though is that our sound is much improved if you compare the sound quality back then. And now, it just sounds a lot better. And if I hear myself, now I feel like it’s me; before was just ever so slightly off. “Consider yourself stylish or if you care at all about your outward appearance “ I mean, look at my eye. It seems like my left eye, I oftentimes twitch a bit. It’s a little smaller and stuff. It’s kind of funny and my hair, you can see I’m parting it in a different way now.

Raphael reacts to flip flops.

“Sandals will always make you look less smart and immature. The same goes for flip-flops. Unless you’re at the pool or at the beach, a self-respecting man should never wear flip-flops in public. It’s always easy to say what not to wear but what should you wear instead?” Yeah, flip-flops. I mean, I have them. My dad is from Brazil and a lot of people wear in there and I wear them to the pool or at the beach but otherwise, I think they’re still overworn and they’re just better options out there.

“Well for summer, I think an ideal shoe are Alpargatas. They’re actually shoes that are originally from Majorca and…” I know, we’ve gotten a lot of flack for Alpargatas in the comments where people say, “Oh it is a terrible shoe. I wouldn’t be caught dead in them.” And I get it. It’s a little more out there but from a classic point of view, if you go through the old-fashioned illustrations from the 1930s, that’s what men actually did wear and I still think they’re kind of a fun summer shoe. Of course, they don’t have much structure, alternatively, maybe a pair of boat shoes will do as well.

Alpargatas

“And they have a [straw] sole…sometimes they have some rubber added to it and then it’s fabric. Sometimes it’s woven, sometimes it’s very thin. In any case, it’s a summery shoe…” Oh man! I also got comments about my dry skin there and you’re quite right. I should have put on more lotion. “…Serves the same purpose as saddles or flip flops, yes it’s a lot more stylish. If you want to go a notch up in formality, go with perforated punch hold leather shoes, or maybe even linen because it absorbs the moisture from your feet and it looks very summery and elegant.” Yeah, linen or woven under shoes are definitely still great especially for summer because they’re just more breathable than straight like regular leather.

You can opt for perforated leather shoes for a more formal look during summer. (Shadow Striped Ribbed Socks from Fort Belvedere)

2. Cargo Shorts

“The second thing you should ever wear are…cargo shorts. They just make you look like a douchebag and I know some people love cargo shorts.” Obviously, you know, I’m not a fan of them and if you listen to it again, I said, “it makes you look like a douchebag.” Now, a lot of people take it as I’m calling people who wear cargo shorts, douchebags. Technically, that’s not quite right. Now, it’s a very aggressive stance and again I made this video back then to kind of attract people who like suits and detract people who wear cargo shorts. If I would do it again, I would be less harsh because after all, in this day and age, anyone can wear anything.

Raphael is not a fan of cargo shorts.

“…they’re functional. Having items in their cargo shorts pockets make it look asymmetrical and because of that, it sends a subconscious signal to others that you’re just not as well put together and they can’t put their finger on it, but in any case, they will think less highly of you.”

The video was made back then to attract people who like wearing suits.

3. Matching Tie & Pocket Square

“My third men’s style pet peeve is wearing a matching tie and a pocket square.” Yeah, that’s just such a terrible combo because it just shows that you tried but you just failed. “Oftentimes, they come in sets, usually in ugly shiny satin, and sometimes they’re even pre-folded pocket squares or pre-tie ties that you clip on and if you wear this, it just looks so cheap and like you don’t know what you’re doing that you’re better off skipping it altogether. Of course, wearing a tie and a pocket square makes you look dapper and you should do that…” 100% still on there. You heard me say dapper. For some strange reason, I said dapper probably 120 times. I notice it now when I watched a video and I think people came up with like a drinking game, “take a shot every time he says dapper,” so hey, make the best out of it and enjoy!

Matching tie and pocket square

“However you should always tie your own tie and fold your own pocket squares.” Absolutely. 100%. “We have a whole series on different tie knots and how to tie them as well as how to fold pocket squares the easy way, please check them out.” Yeah, it’s not that difficult, you know. My dad didn’t teach me how to tie a tie, he just left his nut in the tie and put it back on so I learned it and I was like, “Hey let’s make some videos!” It’s simple and then once you know it, it’s like riding a bike – you won’t forget it.

Classic fold – Learn how to do this and more on How to Fold a Pocket Square • My Top 8 Folds for Gentlemen

4. Wearing a Suit with Short Socks

“My fourth style pet peeve is wearing a suit with short socks. No one wants to see your hairy calves and even if you shave them, it’s just not appropriate, especially in a business setting or an office setting and if you go with a suit or with long pants or trousers or dress pants, you should always have over the calf socks. If you want to learn how to combine pants with shoes and socks so you look dapper…” Yeah, I truly believe that still to this day and you can tell at the Fort Belvedere store we don’t offer any short socks, they’re all over the calf because it’s the gentleman’s choice – it’s as simple as that.

Suits and short socks – just not appropriate.

5. Neck Tie with an Unbuttoned Dress Shirt

“The fifth thing you should never wear is a necktie with a dress shirt” Yeah, top button undone… no, it just looks lazy and you’re better off just skipping a necktie altogether. “…when the top button of a dress shirt is unbuttoned. It just looks sloppy and the sole purpose of wearing a tie is to make it look more dapper and elegant, and…” On the B footage, it’s still crisp, it gets the point across, but I think today we would add more outdoor footage because it just makes it feel different, and soon, I look forward to adding more slow motion to it, which is just a really cool effect. That is not something we used to do back then.

Best to skip the tie altogether rather than leaving one button undone.

“…you care about what you look like and you should either wear the tie and wear it properly or not at all. So if you find yourself in a situation where it’s too hot or you feel uncomfortable around your neck…” That’s right – all or nothing. Do you see my eye again? For some reason, I do that which is kind of funny because I don’t notice it when I stand here but when I see it I’m like, what am I doing? “…take off the tie, roll it up, put it in a pocket and unbutton the buttons. That looks much better.”

Raphael kept doing that thing with his eyes on the video making one of his eyes look smaller than the other.

6. Oversized Shirt Collars

“My sixth pet peeve are shirt collars that are too big. I see them all over the place and sometimes we wear them with neckwear which leads to puckering because when you tighten your tie knot there’s too much fabric and it just leaves unsightly waves. The golden rule of thumb that you read all over the place is that you can put two fingers in your collar and it should comfortably fit. The problem with that is I’ve never found a collar where I couldn’t put two fingers in because your neck is flexible. Because of that..” Sometimes there are all these rules and they’re just plain stupid and if you actually follow them, you’re like, What is that supposed to be? Is it helpful at all? No, but people still talk about it so whenever we hear a rule, think about it, apply it, and see if it actually makes sense.

The golden rule of thumb is that you should insert your two fingers and that they should comfortably fit.

“…you should wear a collar that doesn’t leave any visible gaps when you stand still..” Oh man, can you see I got a bad shave there? You could see like hair poking out on the side so not something that you should do. “Usually if your collar is too big, you’ll find that there’s a gap in the front and it should sit snugly against your neck. That will give you a proper look and it’s just dapper.”

Collars that are too big – it creates unsightly creases.

7. Square-Toed Shoes

“The seventh thing you should never wear are square-toed shoes. Usually, that’s what you find in lower-end shoes…” Yeah, there have been even reaction videos to this particular video because it was so polarizing and I remember one guy saying, “Well, square toe shoes are really trendy right now. It’s absolutely what you wear,” and in certain fashion circles, that is true. That being said, from a classic style point of view, these are the kind of shoes that a lot of people start out with when they want to dress up and dress better, and then, later on, they’re embarrassed that they ever wore those shoes and it’s the same is true for me. I remember having these square-toed shoes from Brazil and the brand I think was called Ferracini which was kind of Italian-inspired but it was made in Brazil and I wore those and I’m just like horrified looking at old pictures when I see those shoes.

Raphael also had a pair of square-toed shoes before.

“…under a hundred dollars and they’re just plain ugly and they showed everyone..” Even better, right? Here, you have exotic skin and shiny parts. Yeah, terrible. Like also these curved up shoes in the front with a square toe. Aah, it pains me. “…a bit around you that you have no clue about dressing well. When I grew up in Germany there was a company named Lloyd’s and they sold tons of ugly shoes and they were actually…” They’re still around and they’re still d*mn ugly. “…a little more expensive so people consider them to be quality dress shoes and for that reason, that style was perpetuated.” I haven’t lived in Germany for 11 years but every once in a while, I still get a comment from people saying, “Yep, still the case. Lloyd’s still producing crappy looking shoes.”

Four basic dress shoe styles for men – Ace Marks

“There are good companies out there that offer a nice round toe or if you want something a little more square go with a chisel toe that’s very elegant.” Yeah, now you find the almond toe and everything, and even this last it’s very classic I can still work exactly like that today, and uh look at those socks, I happen to wear them today.

8. Tennis Socks

“My eighth style pet peeve are tennis socks. Unless you’re at the gym there’s really no reason you should ever wear them. Wearing white tiny socks with brogues or with long pants or even with shorts in a public setting that is not the gym makes you look like a peasant.” Here again, “make you look like a peasant.” The idea was there probably not that many peasants anymore around that would be offended by that saying and it’s kind of tongue-in-cheek and was supposed to be funny.

Tennis socks – No reason to wear them unless you’re at the gym.

I hope most people are not offended by it. At the same time, I can see that if you wear tennis socks and you don’t wear them at the gym, you must think, “Wow what an arrogant pr*ck, judging me and my character by the type of socks I wear,” and again I would probably say it less harshly in this day and age. Not just this day and age, but today, because I found that it’s better to bring people to dress up by being inclusive and not just rejecting what they do and just say, “Hey you know whatever works for you. This is what we do.” I talk about what is positive and what we strive for, not about the things we don’t do or not like that much.

Over the calf Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Navy Blue & Red Fil d’Ecosse Cotton – Fort Belvedere

9. Windsor Tie Knot

“The ninth thing you should never wear is the Windsor tie knot. I know it’s one of the most popular tie knots around because it’s symmetrical…” Funny, the camera wasn’t really in focus. I don’t know why, probably because it was like an HD video. Yeah, Windsor tie knots are still very popular and still not the ideal tie knot, I think, in most situations.

Windsor knot

“Cheap, shiny ties and it makes you look like a used car salesman or…” There was another one where I just used the stereotype of the used car salesman and I’m sure I offended some salesmen or used car salesmen, which yeah I think in general when you look at a group of people and you stereotype and say, “Hey, this is what they were and this is what they do,” there’s always an exception to rule. Even like from a cultural standpoint, right. You could say well in Germany people think there’s lots of drafts and drafts make you sick and in the US people don’t think that and while that may be generally true for maybe 80-85 or maybe even 90 or more percent of the population, there’s always an exception to the rule and we have to keep that in mind and by just flat out saying used car salesmen are poorly dressed with Windsor knots and shiny ties, it’s just not true.

Raphael reacts to the Windsor knot.

“Insurance salesman that is just very sleazy and not very competent…” Same thing here with an insurance salesman. I remember having a conversation with an insurance salesman who was upset by it and I apologized and said, “Look, I would have not said that again but thank you for pointing it out,” and actually we’re able to have a good conversation afterward and establish the mutual level of respect. “and instead I suggest you look into the many different highlights that are out there including the half Windsor that look much better in my opinion and are much better suited to an elegant gentleman.”

10. Satin Silk Ties

“The 10th thing you should never wear are satin silk ties especially not for day wear. Maybe if you want something for the evening where you want a little bit of shine, I could see that but most of those ties you get at Walmart or a cheaper outlet like Men’s Wearhouse, Jos A Bank…” Yeah, traditional neckties and shiny silk are kind of the lowest quality step in men’s ties, unless you get a high-quality silk satin for an evening necktie but then again you’re probably better off wearing a satin black bow tie which is the number one bestseller for black evening bow ties because it sparkles nicely especially in the knot area, but for regular neckties especially if you wear them during the day, skip satin all together or anything else that is shiny; sometimes they’ve nylon or polyester parts.

Black Self-Tie Diamond Bow Tie in Silk Satin Sized with Pointed Ends from Fort Belvedere – Compliments guaranteed.

“…Sure you’ve seen those ties in multicolors and they’re just so plain ugly.” That’s funny because I didn’t catch a problem in the review. If I look at these madras ties, for example, they’re cool; I’d wear them. The paisley is a little bold but still wearable, I think. The stripes blue and pink tie is little out there but there are a whole lot worse ties out there than you can see here that’s describes as wrong so I would definitely put a different picture in there. “I can’t even find words for it. Instead, go with a tie that is silk, maybe wool, maybe cashmere, maybe some texture” Yep, these are nice ties, madder ties, grenadine ties, wool tie, all good. “If it’s all silk, go maybe with a jacket weave or a print, look for something more matte that is timeless.”

Real Ancient Madder Silk Ties – Fort Belvedere

“It will stand the test of time and it will make you look dapper. Case in point, the tie I’m wearing here right now is vintage, but I can still wear it because it’s not shiny, I’ve had it for years. it’s probably 50 years old but I can still wear it because it’s not shiny, it’s a classic small paisley pattern and it just always looks dapper.” Dapper, man!

11. Sports Sunglasses

“My eleventh style pet peeves are sports sunglasses. Yes, you know what I’m talking about, those mirrored sunglasses that you maybe wear when you’re outdoors in the woods and you have a physical activity…” I mean the only thing worse than that, in my opinion, are probably those sunglass covers that you wear with your regular glasses, which I’ve never seen anywhere outside the US but yeah it always pains me when I see that. I feel sorry for people who wear that and think they look great. “Usually they’re mirrored sometimes they have…” and again, that’s just my point of view. They may look at me and think, Wow what a buffoon. He looks like he’s out of this world. Right? So we’re all having our very personal angle. I have the angle of the classic style and we’re all subjective in our own ways.

Sports sunglasses – a big no-no in classic men’s style.

“…Rainbow colors, they’re just not something you should ever wear with a formal wardrobe in public. Instead, go with classic sunglasses that have stood the test of time such as maybe a pair of aviators, maybe Wayfarers, or maybe you want to be like Steve Mcqueen–the king of cool…” Yeah, king of cool- Steve Mcqueen Persols. If you want to check out that Is it worth it video, head over here.

Steve McQueen wearing the Persol Model 649

12. Grown Men Wearing Jerseys in Public

“My 12th pet peeve is when grown men wear jerseys in public. By that, I mean sports jerseys that you usually only wear if you go to a sporting event and you want to support your team. Otherwise, they’re wholly inappropriate and just always make you look very immature. Instead, go with any other kinds of shirts you can find but a jersey is just bad.” Very true. Same opinion today, hasn’t changed.

Wearing jerseys in public unless you’re watching a game is just inappropriate.

13. Slogan T-Shirts

“In the same vein, [consider] slogan t-shirts. They just make you look like a 13-year-old boy who wants to express himself but doesn’t know quite how and it’s not just immature..” Chris, our cameraman now, may be wondering, because sometimes he wears these slogan t-shirts–so, hey, Chris! It’s all still good. I’m not offended by it! But I think it’s probably not the best way to present yourself. “…but it makes people laugh about you and that you actually wear this shirt. I have stuff where men actually wear t-shirts that say Douchebag or Haters Will Always Hate and while that may be the case, it’s just better to not wear it plain in bold colors on your shirt but to rather talk to people in person.”

Hey, it’s still all good, Chris!

14. Regular Necktie for Black Tie Events

“My 14th style pet peeve is when men wear regular neckties for Black Tie events. You see it on the red carpet, in Hollywood…” Hollywood, man! We used to do these kinds of Black Tie roundups for Hollywood and I stopped doing them because it was just too depressing at times. “…but every year around the Oscars and it’s just plain wrong. This is a formal dress code and it looks like you don’t know what you’re doing.”

Regular ties are not for black tie events.

We have this Black Tie pocket guide that we wrote but we also have what is probably the world’s most extensive guide on Black Tie, including the entire history. So, if you want to learn stuff about Black Tie, we got it all out there. It’s all free information, so head over there and knock yourself out. “I also created a video about how to find the right black bow tie for your tuxedo…” I think we even have more bow ties now than we used to have at that time so I probably have to make a new video, or maybe Preston will or maybe Kyle. We’ll see!

Black Tie Accessories from Fort Belvedere

15. A Belt with A Vest

“The 15th thing you should never wear is a belt with a vest. A vest should be either worn…” I still see that one all the time especially with big buckles that are peeking out from underneath the waistcoat. Yes, you can wear it of course but why if you don’t have to? “…with just side adjusters or suspenders because a belt will create a gap between your waistband or your pants and your vest and it just looks unsightly.” with the Hermes H buckle belt, too!

Vest with the belt peeking out – just plain unsightly.

“You should also never have a tie that peeks out underneath of it or maybe a shirt that pokes underneath of it when the vest is too short and the rise is too low because that simply shows that you don’t know what you’re doing.” Apart from that, it also accentuates your crotch area and you want people to look into your face and into your eyes not to your midsection down there. And the other thing I noticed is that we had all these like plain jump cuts, I think our editing has gotten a lot better so it’s really fun to see these old videos and how far we’ve come.

The proper way to wear a vest – no visible belts.

16. Backpacks

“I think only schoolboys should wear backpacks otherwise there’s no place for them in public unless you go hiking or to an expedition where that’s kind of the only practical thing to carry.” Yeah, I mean the black backpack that you saw there, it is actually our backpack. It’s like a camera backpack for when we go on a location shoot and it just has to be practical and we have to have all our lenses in there, our laptop and all of our gear and cables and whatnot. So for those purposes, yes a backpack is fine.

If you go to the office, for example, I still think a more stylish and classic option is to skip the backpack. I know people have said, “Well the problem with bags is that you just have to weight on one shoulder versus a backpack is better for your back because it balances the weight,” So, I trust you that you know what works for you and what doesn’t but if you just look at it from a classic style perspective, especially those nylon backpacks are just terrible.

Definitely no backpacks

“Otherwise, with backpacks, it’s very easy to hit people without even noticing it which is not just rude but just not polite. At the same time, it makes you look like a schoolboy and you rather want to look like a grown man so get a leather satchel instead, a briefcase, maybe…” The first one we showed there actually, it looks terrible. It has this kind of weird look. Let’s watch this again here…oh yeah. Now, do not get that one. That looks really ugly. It has these ZAMAC buckles and I don’t know, maybe I reviewed it, or we just missed that. This is not a picture I would put in there. Yes, it’s leather but just because it’s leather doesn’t make it look nice.

We believe we’ve made improvements in a number of areas!

17. Ties That Are Way Too Long

“My 17th style pet peeve are men who wear ties that are way too long. The problem is they come underneath your jacket and if you don’t wear a jacket, they even accentuate your [crotch], which is just not where you want people to look at. Ideally, they look at your face and not at your crotch.”  Funny, I just said it before in the waistcoat context so you can see it hasn’t changed! It’s still true.

“Now, I get it; a lot of ties are too long and especially if you’re a shorter guy, it’s very hard to find a tie that actually works for you because otherwise you have to have this gigantic tie knot with your tiny head and it just looks goofy. So instead, buy ties in the right length for you. I think we’re one of the only stores that offer the entire threefold classic neckwear range…” Funny that this picture was shown because yes, we sell ties in our three-fold collection that are made for short men, for regular length ties, and long ties. These are knit ties and we don’t have them in multiple different lengths.

You don’t want to draw attention to your crotch area.

Now, if you don’t have the money to spend on a tie, you can also check for vintage ties because oftentimes they were shorter because men just wore ties shorter than they’re typically worn today. So if you’re a shorter guy and you don’t have a big tie budget, that’s the way to go for you. I can tell the editor here did not know what three-fold ties were even though the categories really say what they are and the reviewer didn’t catch it. I think we have a much better process in place now where we get things right but ultimately we’re humans, we make mistakes, and we accept that.

18. Large Armholes

“My 18th pet peeve are large armholes in a suit or a jacket. Not only do they make you look like a football player but they’re also uncomfortable and they restrict your movement. Instead, go with smaller armholes. I suggest watching our series on How A Suit Should Fit so you get it right.” Yeah, perfect. Still holds true today!

Large armholes – unsightly and uncomfortable. (tie from Fort Belvedere.)

19. Big Wristwatches

“The 19th thing you should never wear as a self-respecting man are big, gaudy wristwatches that just scream for attention. I know they’re really popular these days but…” That picture here got a lot of reactions. People are like, “Oh, Vacheron Constantin is a fantastic brand…shut up, you don’t know what you’re talking about,” and the point we’re trying to make was, skip big wristwatches even though you may spend them on Patek Philippe or whatever it is. Just try to get a wristwatch that is right for your wrist size and I think, we put together an entire guide about that.

We got a lot of reactions when this particular watch was shown as an example in the video.

I think the general trend right now is to just get bigger and bigger wristwatches and to wear them as a status symbol, just to show that you make a lot of money or they’re that you’re very successful and especially Rolex is one like that. But yes, I fully understand that this watch is a high-end watch, if you look at it it is beautiful but if it’s too big and too chunky, I still think I wouldn’t wear it. “A smaller watch is just more sophisticated especially if it’s slimmer and it serves the same purpose, and it’s just a hallmark of an elegant gentleman.”

Raphael wearing a watch of just the right size.

Outfit Rundown

“In today’s video, I’m wearing a custom-made three-piece suit…” Oh yes, this was a custom suit and I say “custom” because that’s a term that’s widely used today and this one came from a company by the name of Tom James. They offered to make me a suit and I think it’s a really large company that has salespeople all over the place that come to your office and measure you and just get you a suit and they have different price ranges. I think on top is their Oxxford price range which sells for several thousand dollars.

This one was a lower price range but it was still a very nice Holland & Sherry fabric and I wanted a different silhouette that’s why I got these kinds of pleated backs with the peak lapels. It’s kind of vintage-inspired. I wanted a three-piece suit, the vest had limited options in terms of the buttons that’s why you see that unusual, I think it’s just three buttons there but I got a shawl collar lapel which I liked but in the back, they really had issues with my sloping shoulder and the pleats, so they actually kind of limited the pleats so the range of movement isn’t great. Definitely lots of room for improvement with that suit.

Raphael reacts to outfit rundown.

“…which is special in the sense that it has a peak lapel and an action back; it’s a combination you find very rarely because half belts are more formal and usually a notched lapel would be the right lapel for this kind of a suit.” Yeah, you could see there that the person behind the camera didn’t quite catch that my vest in the front wasn’t lying flat properly, that’s why it looks so weird there. Normally it doesn’t look that weird but again I think now that’s something we would catch simply because we’re more aware, we have better processes in place.

“However, I intentionally went for it because I knew the rule and I wanted to break it. I did that because it’s kind of a city suit style that I’ve seen in a magazine from the 1930s and I just wanted to recreate that style and feel.” We should have added the 1930s picture but yeah, it’s in fact something that I was inspired by one of these old magazines.

“It’s quite unusual in the sense that it has a shawl collar…” Now, you can see the vest is in a better spot. “But it’s made for daywear, which means there’s not a deep cut out, but just like a regular cutout.” Definitely some wrinkles there in the back showing that it’s too tight and not a perfect custom vest but I like the same fabric back. “The self-fabric back and the lining only on the inside, which is something you only see custom, usually.”

The vest has a shawl collar.

“The pants have inward-facing pleats because of my big thighs. I like to have some cuffs because they pull the pants down because of the weight and the shirt I’m wearing is a white fine herringbone shirt from Siniscalchi…” Yeah, I still wear pants with pleats and some people are like, “Oh my God you look like a grandpa and no one wears those anymore today,” and again, we like the classic style you know something I can wear today three years from now, 10 years from now, it just suits my style. I’m not going with the fashion and what’s trendy now but maybe out of style tomorrow.

“…with a club collar. The tie is vintage, I found it at a thrift store for a few bucks…” I still have that shirt. Still a great shirt and at one angle there, you saw my tie knot being loose. Shouldn’t have been in there but hey, “…it’s very old but it’s still very nice and it goes well with the yellow lining of my suit. The fabric is from Holland & Sherry, it looks like a blue pin dot but upon closer inspection…” still a great fabric. “…blue, light blue and a black that creates a pindot pattern…” The problem is even though the fabric is fantastic it was a custom suit. Since the fit isn’t a hundred percent, I just don’t wear it as often. “that effect and they’re very nice that the color changes with light.” There are very few things in terms of fit that are 100% but there’s definitely more room for improvement than just 10% of this suit.

The editor back then probably missed that the vest wasn’t laid out properly but hey, Raphael still looks dapper in this three-piece suit ensemble! (pocket square from Fort Belvedere.)

“If you pay attention to details, you’ll see that usually, I have the bottom button on my single-breasted vests undone. However, this vest has only three buttons so leaving the bottom one undone would be disproportional.” Man, this is a really long outfit rundown! I think we make them a lot snappier these days.

“The pocket square is from Fort Belvedere and it picks up the yellow tones but it adds some orange, some purple, just to break up the entire look and make it harmonious. The cufflinks I’m wearing are also vintage; it’s an octagonal shape with cloisonne enamel which means it’s enamel that you can actually see through. The enamel creates a very nice effect especially if you have light that falls on it as you can see…” Again, super long but I still like the color combination with the yellow and everything, the pocket square all looks neat. “…the colors of yellow and blue go well with my suit and my tie. The same vein are my socks which are Shadow Stripe socks from Fort Belvedere in navy blue and yellow, and while it’s not the same color as my suit, the two-tone effect really helps to tie everything together.”

The cufflinks that Raphael was wearing in the video is vintage in an octagonal shape with cloisonne enamel

“The shoes I’m wearing are single monk straps with brogue on them and a wingtip. They have less broguing than a regular full brogue, they’re made by Crockett and Jones from their higher-end bench grade. The buckles of my shoe are silver which matches my sterling silver ring which has a lapis stone which is a nice blue with very few inclusions and it matches my cufflinks…” Yeah, you can see the ring is not in focus there. Today we’d get that better. “…as well as well as the blue tones overall. That way everything is tied together and it still has an accent in the form of my tie, my shirt…”

Man, you can really see, take a look at my hairline there and take a look at it now. I’m definitely thinning out up here. Yeah, getting older I guess! “…as well as a pocket square. It just looks dapper, classic, and timeless…” Dapper! “I know this video may be too extreme for some but sometimes, you have to take a stance and I firmly believe in that and if you enjoyed this video or if you want to learn more about classic men style please sign up to our free email newsletter and we teach you how things evolved, why to wear them, why not to wear them, and you can take it from there and do whatever you want.”

Raphael’s hairline back then vs. now.

Overall Review

Alright. Overall, I can see why this is probably the video that has the most dislikes but at the end of the day, it still has more likes than dislikes but it was a very kind of polarizing video that got people to react, and maybe because of that, it’s still popular and youtube recommends it because they realize that people just react to it and a reaction is maybe better than no reaction. 

Now, from a gentlemanly point of view, that’s certainly a little too extreme and if I’d film it again, I would be a little softer in the words, a little more accepting, and open but at the core, the suggestions I made would still hold true today and to finish the video off, let’s go with another quote, this time, from Oliver Cromwell, “He who stops getting better has stopped being good.” I firmly believe that.

How far do you think we’ve come from our video this 3-year-old video? Let us know in the comments!

For many a man, his thirties are a time of exciting life changes; buying homes, getting career promotions, starting families, and more. While these specific examples don’t apply to every man, the fact remains that we all mature and change over time–and that means our outward appearance should reflect such a progression! To avoid looking like you’re still attached to the styles and habits of your teens and twenties, check out these six tips.

You’re a fully-fledged adult now, and there should be a certain level of maturity found within your style, one where you look youthful but also age-appropriate. Anything too young will make you look like you haven’t grown up. At the same time, just because someone expects you to dress a particular way, doesn’t mean you have to. Finding your own style that suits you, looks good on you, and makes you feel good should be your first priority. But since it’s often hard to see oneself clearly, we put together a list of ways men fall into habits that aren’t deliberately their choices, which can negatively affect the way they look at this particular age.

You can definitely tell that Raphael’s style have evolved and changed over time.

6 Style Mistakes 30-Somethings Should Avoid

1. Wearing the Same Outfits You Did In High School

The first style blunder is when anything in your style of repertoire is the same as it was for you in high school. It’s easy to get comfortable with certain things, but your style and look should evolve with you as you age. It’s okay to be a little bit attached, but you don’t have to keep wearing your same old track t-shirt while out running all of your errands. 

The Same Old Clothing Combinations

You’re in your 30s, so you probably don’t look like you’re in your teens anymore. Save your old clothes for painting and doing other household errands, but not for day-to-day wear. These would include those baggy straight leg jeans, graphic tees, and oversized polos and t-shirts.

Not only are they less fashionable but also does not included in classic style.

Are you still wearing the same combinations as you were as in high school? For example, visibly layering a t-shirt with a button-down or a polo. This will add unnecessary bulk to your top half. The visible white shirt cheapens the look and is a visual distraction. Instead, buy v-neck t-shirts if you prefer the extra added layer of an undershirt.

Outdated Hairstyles

One of the worst offenders in this category is your haircut, because it’s front and center; everybody can see it. If you haven’t changed your haircut since high school, chances are it’s time for an update. It’s been more than a decade, and it’s definitely time to move on (unless you had a truly timeless haircut, and not many of us did)!

This gelled, spiky haircut may have been “in” 15 years ago, but it’s unbecoming of a man in his 30s.

One of the most common offenders we still see today is the gelled, “short and spiky” haircut. Even if your hair isn’t bleached, this is still a dead giveaway for high school hair. If you’re not sure what kind of hairstyle will look best on you, perhaps call a friend whose hairstyle you admire and go ask their opinion, or even ask if you can go and see their stylist. Also, think twice before returning to your current stylist or barber, as they’ll most likely keep giving you the same old thing.

2. Not Knowing Your Personal Style

Another mistake men make in their 30s is not finding out what their style is, or what looks good on them. This is true for men who love style and for those who find it a nuisance. If you’re frustrated with having to figure out what to wear at this age, this may be the root of the problem. You’re at least 30 years old at this point, so it’s time to figure it out.

Kyle wearing comfortably his navy suit accented with a blue & gray stripe tie and burgundy paisley silk pocket square.

Take some time and answer the following questions:

• How do I want to feel when I get dressed?
• What is important to me with regards to style?
• What is my budget?
• What consistently makes me feel good when I wear it?
• What gaps in my knowledge are preventing me from the wardrobe I want?

It may be that expanding your menswear library will provide you with some inspiration.

• What mistakes do I consistently make with purchasing that I later regret?
• What gaps in my wardrobe are preventing me from the look that I want?
• Do I struggle with too many clothing choices, or too few?
• Do I want to do this on my own, or consult other people and other resources?

Take the answers to all these questions and write them down. It will create something like a Venn diagram that will lead you to your ideal look.

A comfortable, confident look for Kyle [Tie: Madder Silk Tie in Orange Red with Green Macclesfield Neats – Fort Belvedere]

3. Carrying a Backpack

Unless you’re camping, backpacks tend to make adult men look like overgrown schoolboys, no matter your age. I’m not going to argue that they’re not useful, like in times of travel, but for any sort of professional scenario, it’s time to ditch the backpack. If you’re in your 30s, your clothing and taste have hopefully changed since your college and high school days, but the backpack is a bit of a remnant of that time. On top of that, backpacks wrinkle shirts, crumple jacket shoulders, and cause your back to sweat.

A perfect example of how a backpack can ruin your look

4. Not Getting Dressed Every Day

What you wear at home should principally be about what feels good to you–but I’ve actually found value in getting dressed every day. You’re ready to go whenever you want, and it’s much easier to mentally switch out of “lounge mode.” No doubt it’s much easier to stay in your sweats all day even while running errands, but it certainly won’t make you look mature for your age.

Kyle wearing a navy jacket with white & blue dress shirt, and a Moss Green Silk Wool Pocket Square from Fort Belvedere accenting against his green trousers.

5. Wearing Immature Jeans

Jeans, unlike chinos or other dress pants, age much more quickly over time. The trends for distressing, details, and washes make jeans evolve more quickly. A timeless quality, therefore, is irrespective of what is going on in the current trend of jeans. But since the styles of the previous decades were far from timeless, most of the jeans from your teens and 20s are going to look dated even if you can still fit into them!

Embellished, overly faded jeans are a DON’T

I admit to doing this as well, though. Some of my favorite jeans that I’ve had for many years have even ended up ripping because I kept them for too long.

6. Wearing Immature Shoes

On a similar note, casual styles of footwear can also create a juvenile effect. This can mean wearing flip-flops or sandals to places other than the beach. Like a lot of people here in the midwest tend to do sometimes, wearing dirty trainers someplace other than doing yard work. Your shoes are a key place to be able to show that your style is as mature as you are.

Sandals and Suits obviously don’t go well together

If you like sneakers, by all means, wear them. But we’d advise getting rid of anything old and dirty, and instead choosing something clean, fresh, and a little bit more mature. Do your best to keep them clean at all times. In general, try to save any kind of sandal for the beach. To start your collection of mature shoes, you can take advantage of the style and versatility that essential dress shoes can offer.

These Cognac Antique Wingtips from Ace Marks are a quintessentially timeless option

Conclusion

Certain decades seem to correlate with a specific set of style mistakes. Keep these in mind so you don’t commit them and risk looking sloppy. Remember to always have the right amount of maturity in your outfits to look your best in your 30s, and even beyond.

Kyle, comfortable in his early 30s, wearing a green cable knit sweater paired with cream-colored jeans and brown woven leather boots

What is your favorite style technique that you discovered (or leveraged) in your 30s? Share it with us in the comments!

It’s a simple fact of life that stains happen. Whether you’ve been a little too careless with a hotdog or a spoonful of soup, had a mishap with a fountain pen, or just run into some unfortunate weather conditions, we’ve all encountered situations where we need to get unwanted materials out–and when it comes to ties and pocket squares, today’s guide has the answers!

When it comes to larger garments like shirts, trousers, jackets, and so on, we’ve already done several garment care videos that should help you there. And while much of the information in our general stains guide holds true today, there are some special considerations you should keep in mind when it comes to your more delicate accessories like neckties, bow ties, and pocket squares.

Why is this? Well, for one thing, these accessories are often made with finer threads and fibers which wouldn’t stand up as well to heavy scrubbing or machine laundering. For another, ties in particular often have an interlining and stitching that could be damaged or otherwise disturbed by those processes.

Ties and pocket squares are often made from finer fibers that should be handled with care. (Pictured: linen ties from Fort Belvedere)

Common Fabrics Used for Accessories

Let’s get started today with a summary of some of the most common materials you’ll see used in ties and pocket squares:  silk, wool, and linen, and some special considerations for each.

Silk

We’ll start with silk, which is a delicate material made most commonly from the fibroin protein of the mulberry silkworm. These proteins have a triangular, prism-like structure that refracts light to show various colors and also gives the overall fabric a lustrous appearance. Silk has a natural sheen, it drapes well and it has good absorbency so it takes dyes easily.

The use of silk as a textile dates as far back as 6000 BC/BCE in China, and it then spread to other parts of the world, reaching places like America by the 17th century. Once expensive enough that it was only worn by nobility, it’s now still used in luxury garments today, although it is much more readily available.

Silk production in Jiangsu, China

As far as cleaning considerations are concerned, we’ll start by saying that you shouldn’t submerge or soak silk fabrics in water. Completely saturating silk with water can not only aggravate a stain, but can also cause rings or ripples that might ruin the texture, color, or pattern of the silk. It weakens when it’s wet and it also degrades with heat and perspiration. Silk can also have finishes that could be removed by washing; for example, a smoother hand feel might become pebbled. In order to make sure that you aren’t going to remove this finish, you should test the garment in an area that can’t be readily seen.

Do not soak silk in water, as it may ruin the fabric.

Linen

Linen is a natural fiber that’s derived from the flax plant. It is also weaker when it’s wet, and it’s prone to abrasion, so it should be cleaned with care. It’s important that you not squeeze or press linen fibers when you’re trying to get a stain out. If you do this, you may further grind the stained material into the linen fibers, making it harder to get out.

Linen fabrics are weaker when wet.

Wool

Finally here, there’s wool, which is really more of a categorical term for textile fibers derived from the coat of mainly sheep, but also goats, musk oxen, rabbits, camels, llamas, alpacas, vicunas, guanacos, and even cattle and pigs. Note that stains can often set especially quickly into wool fibers, so tending to a new stain is especially key with wool.

A selection of wool suit fabrics from Vitale Barberis Canonico

Types of Stains

Stains can either be organic or inorganic in nature and from there, can be oily or not. In other words, you could think of all stains as falling into four broad categories: organic, inorganic, oily organic, and oily inorganic.

Stains from man-made materials like ink are inorganic.

As examples of each of these, stains from living organisms (including plants) are organic; things like blood, grass stains, or red wine. Meanwhile, stains from man-made materials such as ink, solvents, or machine dust are inorganic. Examples of oily organics could include things like barbecue sauce or sweat stains, and examples of oily inorganics could include things like cosmetics. Our general stain removal guide goes into greater detail on these points!

Things You’ll Need For Stain Removal

• Clean towel – place this on your work surface (ironing board, table, etc.)
• Clean white cloth – preferably made from cotton or linen, with linen probably being best because it doesn’t pill
• Paper towels or napkins – to soak up oil or grease stains
• Club soda or plain water – carbonation can help to lift stains out

Baking soda can aid in the removal of old or oil-based stains

• Talcum powder, baking soda, cornstarch, or borax – to treat old stains
• Table salt
• A formulated stain solution – as an example, this one from The Laundress 
• Spray bottles filled with either vodka, isopropyl alcohol, or rubbing alcohol; and a 50-50 mixture of water and white vinegar or lemon juice

A hairdryer with a “cool” setting can be useful in preventing stains from spreading.

Having a hairdryer on hand to help prevent the spreading of liquids can also be helpful–but if you are going to use one, be sure that it has a “cool” setting. We’ll also note here that other commercial products such as Carbona Stain Devils, Tide To Go, Shout Wipes, or Silk & Clean tissues are all potential aids for you here, but we would sooner recommend the more gentle methods that we’ve already outlined.

General Stain Removal Tips for Accessories

1. Be Wary of Using Bleach & Bleach Alternatives

You may remember that in our general stain removal guide, we recommended the use of bleach alternative (also called oxygen bleach, and made from sodium percarbonate), but we would advise against using it on your delicate accessories, especially those made of silk. And as with regular garments, never use conventional chlorine bleach! Both bleach and bleach alternative are probably going to be too harsh for these more delicate garments, so you should stay away from them. This is also true of conventional soaps and laundry detergents.

Chlorine bleach should always be avoided when it comes to garment care!

2. Be Careful with Biological Detergents

Something else to be careful of in particular is what’s known as a “biological detergent.” This matters because biological detergents contain enzymes that effectively eat their way through protein-based stains. But since wool and silk are also largely made from proteins, these enzymes can eat through them, as well.

Be mindful of the fabric composition of your accessories.

Before you attempt to use any materials, except, perhaps water or club soda to remove a stain, be sure to check the label on your garment to see if there are any special care considerations you need to be aware of.

3. Check the Fibers’ Colorfastness

After this, you should also check the color fastness of the fibers by dabbing a small and clean area of the clothing with a clean, white cloth that is slightly damp. If the garment isn’t colorfast, you’d either want to take it to a dry cleaner or consider it a lost cause.

Check your garments’ colorfastness by blotting a damp cloth in a small area.

4. Don’t Iron Your Neckties or Bow Ties

When it comes to ties, you definitely shouldn’t iron them, either, as they have delicate rolled edges that can be unattractively flattened out under an iron. In addition, the heat might also damage the fibers.

5. Don’t Machine Wash Your Accessories

Speaking of appliances not to use, you should never machine wash or tumble dry any of the delicate accessories we’re discussing today.

Never wash or tumble dry any delicate garment.

6. Don’t Scrub Out The Stains

And no matter what cleaning agent you happen to be using, you should always remember to be gentle–blot, don’t scrub. Some gentle rubbing may be okay but you should always exercise caution and work slowly. Also, it’s a good idea to work from the outside of the stain inward to prevent spreading.

Heavy scrubbing is likely too severe for delicate accessories.

7. Don’t Wring Out Your Accessories

Because many of the fibers we’re discussing today are particularly delicate, you should also never attempt to wring out a tie or pocket square, as this could easily damage the structure of the fibers.

8. Be Careful with All Cleaning Methods

And as we’ve said in our general stain removal guide, it may be that a given stain is actually a combination of some or all of the four types we mentioned. If one particular stain removal method doesn’t seem to work well for you, you could try some of the others and see if that gets you further. Of course, do remember to be careful no matter what method you’re using.

Always take caution with whatever cleaning method that you’ll be using with your garments.

9. Inform the Dry Cleaner of the Fabric Composition

Finally here, if you would like to use a dry cleaner as a last resort, be sure to tell them of the fabric composition of the garment you’re bringing in and the type of stain that the garment was subjected to. This way, if they have more information, they should know more properly how to treat the garment in question.

Immediate Stain Removal, Step by Step

Here’s what to do in the moment, right when something actually gets on your garment.

Organic Stains (Food or Bodily Fluids)

1. Scrape Off with A Knife or Spoon

Firstly, you should gently scrape off the offending material using something like a butter knife or a spoon; something that is firm, but without a sharp edge. This way, you’ll get the majority of the substance off of your tie or pocket square so you won’t be grinding or mushing it into the fibers when you’re trying to remove the stain. And if you’re using an implement with a defined-but-not-sharp edge, you won’t risk tearing the fibers that way, either.

Use a spoon to gently scrape off the stains.

2. Blot At The Stain

Next, try blotting at the stain with a clean cloth or napkin using water (or preferably club soda). Paper towels are also acceptable, but you should try to avoid paper napkins if you can at all help it, because they will often disintegrate as you’re trying to blot or rub at the stain. Of course, if all you’ve got in a given situation is paper napkins, then by all means, go for it–but you should sooner try something a bit softer and at the same time more durable.

Use a napkin or a piece of cloth with water or club soda to gently blot the stain.

Inorganic Stains (Oil or Grease)

1. Blot Up As Much of the Stain as Possible

When it comes to oil and grease stains, we would recommend that you start by blotting up as much of the oil and grease as possible with a paper or cloth napkin. You’re not rubbing here, but just taking up the excess material with the paper or cloth.

Blot as much stain as possible using a cloth or a paper towel.

2. Apply Club Soda

Remember, of course, that because water and oil don’t mix, water probably won’t be much help to you here. The carbonation from club soda could be a bit more helpful, but just trying to blot up the excess oil is a good first step.

Club soda works better with oil stains with water.

Going back a bit to an organic stain, red wine is best treated at the moment with table salt, although you will obviously want to take your tie off first in order to do this. It can also be taken up with club soda or even white wine if you’ve got it on hand. Speaking of white wine, you shouldn’t panic if you get a bit of this on your tie or pocket square, as it’s best left to dry and then to deal with later.

Removing Hours-old or Older Stains

So, those are all of the immediate methods to employ right as the stain hits the tie. But once you’re back home and have a bit more time to deal with things, there is a subsequent follow-up process you should use to really ensure that you’re getting the stains out.

Oil Stains

This particular treatment can also be a great method for removing older stains, although you may want to use it in conjunction with some of the other processes we’ve already talked about.

Create a pile of baking soda or cornstarch on an old stain

1. Leave Baking Soda for 12 to 24 Hours

Lay the tie flat on your work surface with a towel underneath and create a small pile of either baking soda, cornstarch, talcum powder, or borax. All should work roughly equally. Allow this small pile of powder to sit on the stain for 12 to 24 hours; this is especially important for oil-based stains. After the 12 to 24 hours has elapsed, you can take the powder off of the tie and see if the stain has come up with it.

2. Brush Carefully

Afterward, a bit of delicate brushing with a garment safe brush might be good. Of course, you want to use something with particularly soft bristles here, not something like a scrub brush, shoe brush, or any related material. This method may not work on the first try, but it can be repeated up to three times without any potential for damaging the tie. You could also try different types of powders if you weren’t satisfied with the one you used the first time.

A garment brush with soft bristles can be used (with caution) on accessories.

A small amount of mineral spirits can also be used for particularly stubborn oil stains, but this stuff can be harsh, so we would exercise extreme caution here.

Ink Stains

Finally today, we’ll discuss ink stains. We’ve saved these for last because ink is a bit of an outlier. It’s best treated not right away, but after it has completely dried. This is because, if you try to remove a fresh ink stain while it’s still wet, especially by introducing another liquid, there is a great potential for the ink to simply spread around to more of the tie or pocket square.

Ink stains are best removed after they have dried.

So, once the ink is completely dry, you should gently dab at it with a cotton ball or clean rag or cloth that has been soaked in rubbing alcohol. If the ink doesn’t all come out at first, you should allow it to dry again, and then repeat the process. Alternatively, you could also combine this method with a few of the other cleaning substances we’ve already recommended just to see what works.

Conclusion

Hopefully you’ll find these various techniques helpful in getting your neckties, bow ties, and pocket squares back to looking their best, regardless of the fabric composition. These methods could also likely work for other materials like cotton or polyester, of course, but we’ve just listed some of the most common construction fabrics here today. Remember to always work slowly and carefully and not to expect miracles.

Some methods of removing stains may work for other garments but not for your accessories.

Not every garment and accessory is going to be able to be brought back to 100% of course, but garment care techniques are always worth a try!

Special thanks to the Laundry Evangelist, Patric Richardson, whose work in the field of stain removal contributed to this article.

Have you had success removing stains on your ties and pocket squares? Any hacks we don’t know about? Share with us in the comments!

Within the realm of men’s dress shirts, Eton falls somewhere in between higher-end brands such as 100 Hands or Attolini, and lower-end brands such as Banana Republic, J.Crew, or Charles Tyrwhitt. They retail anywhere between $185 and $295 which is quite steep for an off-the-rack shirt. So, why are they so popular among consumers today–and are they worth your money?

Slim, including super slim cuts, trendier fabrics, as well as spread collar options, and a non-iron, wrinkle-resistant treatment have made Eton rather popular even among menswear enthusiasts. Spearheaded by their designer Sebastian Dolega, they also are not afraid to push the envelope when it comes to very artistic or artsy and Bohemian types of shirt fabrics and materials. So, when it comes to things like floral patterns, they don’t have to hide behind Etro or Robert Graham.

Eton isn’t afraid to push the envelope when it comes to their floral and Bohemian designs.

Of course, all that comes with a relatively hefty price tag for an off-the-rack shirt. Casual shirts cost between $185 and $235 in 2020 and their more regular dress shirts range anywhere between $235 and $295. This is certainly a level where you can just, get online made-to-measure shirts but you can actually go to a local store or haberdasher get a full-fledged made-to-measure shirt, you can even get bespoke shirts in Europe for less than that, out of comparable fabric with considerably more handwork.

Even if you get one of their shirts on sale for 40 or 50% off they’re not quite a super low bargain. However, ever since 2012 Eton has developed a strong foothold with higher-end or upscale menswear retailers. To understand why and whether they’re a worthwhile investment, let’s get to know the brand and look closely at the details of these well-known high priced shirts.

Eton slim dress shirt in pink

History of Eton

The company was formally founded in 1928 in the small Swedish town of Ganghester by Annie and David Peterson. Initially, they would sew those shirts out of their home under the label of Skjortfabriken Special, which meant Shirt Factory Special. They grew in popularity locally and being in an area where there was still quite a textile manufacturing at the time in Sweden, they were able to expand rather quickly.

In 1955, they made a push into the British market and David Peterson had been to Eton in England and was impressed by its nimbus and the campus and they also realized that the Swedish name wasn’t quite marketable in England and so, they started a line that was the “Eton Special” line and when it was really popular, they decided to rename the entire brand into Eton. Around the same time, they opened a state-of-the-art shirt factory in Ganghester in Sweden which today serves still as the headquarters of the company.

The company was founded in 1928 by Annie and David Petterson.

I was able to visit the headquarters in 2014 when they were still making their higher-end DnA shirts in Sweden. I don’t think they do that anymore simply due to high labor costs in Sweden but one thing that really stood out to me was all the equipment and machinery they used. They had developed extensive processes and even came up with their own ceiling-mounted systems that were branded as Eton.

Throughout the existence of the company they always tried to get better, get more efficient, and have a better quality shirt, and because of that, they came up with new machines, machine editions, and whole systems which eventually was outsourced to a subsidiary called Eton Systems which is wholly owned by Eton Shirts.

Eton’s headquarters in Ganghester, Sweden.

In my mind, that was really impressive for a clothing company. Also, they always were interested in innovation and so even in the 70s, they experimented with organic non-iron or wrinkle-resistant treatments which eventually led to their first, what they called Non-iron Shirt in 1992. In my opinion, to this day, their non-iron treatment is a cut above the rest and it’s something that gives them a competitive advantage in the marketplace today.

The company was probably owned until 2012 when Litorina took over then sold it again to EQT partners in 2016. In my mind, it was very interesting to see that Eton didn’t really become popular in the US until after they were acquired by Private Equity Ventures.

Eton started their non-iron shirts in 1992

A Closer Look At Eton Shirts

Eton has claimed in the past that they make the best dress shirts in the world, so of course, you want to know, is that actually true? So what do you, as a consumer, actually get in terms of materials, construction, fit, and details when you buy an Eton shirt?

Eton shirts

1. Fabric

Just look in their shirt. The number one ingredient is, of course, the fabric and so a high-quality fabric is important for a high-quality shirt. Now Eton uses mostly Giza 45 cotton which is long-staple Egyptian cotton or Sea Island cotton from the West Indies. Only .0004% of all cotton in the world are actually Sea Island cotton, so it’s not something that is really well-suited for mass production at the scale that Eton is doing it.

Eton is also large enough to create exclusive fabrics just for them even with leading shirt fabric manufacturers. Because they produce over a million shirts a year, they use different kinds of cotton including star cotton from JC Holloway and Egyptian cotton. All of their stuff is extra-long-staple cotton which means it lasts longer and will pill less.

Eton uses Giza 45 cotton for their shirts.

All of the shirt fabrics are true two by two-ply meaning all the warp and all the weft yarns are actually two plied. Why is it important? Basically, it makes the yarn stronger and makes it more consistent, which we elaborate further in our Cotton Explained guide.

When I visited Eton six years ago, they were also experimenting with more environmentally friendly fabrics or materials such as Tencel from the Austrian company of Lenzing, and today, I think they offer a cotton Tencel blend option but the majority of their shirts are still 100% cotton. 

Apart from their signature twill shirts and a full range of broadcloth oxfords and all the typical men’s dress shirts, they also have a large range of casual shirts and artistically inspired shirts that are more geared towards the young professional or Bohemian type.

Eton also experimented with materials such as Tencel from the Austrian company Lenzing.

Eton Non-Iron Dress Shirts

If I had to point out just one thing about Eton shirts, it clearly is their wrinkle-resistant or non-iron treatment. First of all, there’s no such thing as a true non-iron shirt and if you want a crisp look without any wrinkles, you’ll have to iron it. That being said, non-iron treatments can really help to keep shirts better looking and crisper especially when you travel and when you move around all day.

What’s so special about Eton non-iron dress shirts? Well, most non-iron treated shirts are coated in formaldehyde, and it’s a chemical that will come off over the course of 20 washes and it also doesn’t feel very nice on the skin. There’s a very plasticky, almost cheap feel on your skin.

Eton shirts have non-iron treatment.

Eton, in collaboration with Alumo, which is a high-end Swiss shirt fabric manufacturer, developed an organic process that is applied to the yarn, not the finished fabric, that makes the fibers more wrinkle-resistant. The big difference is that you don’t need bad chemicals to achieve that effect and I remember when I was at their headquarters, they advertised that their shirts had fewer bad chemicals than a cup of black tea. For me, that’s pretty impressive and it’s probably one of the reasons why Eton shirts are so popular today.

Eton collaborated with high-end swiss manufacturer Alumo to develop an organic process in making the fibers more wrinkle-resistant.

2. Construction

Interlining

Apart from the fabric, the interlinings they use are of high-quality. I’ve worn their shirts for around six years, I have not had any issues with blistering.

Workmanship

In terms of workmanship, the buttonholes are situated neatly, they’re cut first and then sewn by a machine with a high-stitch density. All the buttons are sewn on with the Ascolite machine which is a method that creates a shank so you don’t have wrinkles on your shirt when you button it, but more importantly, it is designed so the button will never come off. In fact, I’ve never had a button come off of any of my Eton shirts.

The buttonholes are sewn neatly and machine-sewn with high-density stitches.

Unlike with most other shirts in this price category, the buttons Eton uses are not true Mother of Pearl. Instead, they are a mixture between crushed Mother of Pearl and resin and plastic, and to me, they feel like a plastic button even though it’s a very sturdy one and it’s not prone to breakage, but it’s definitely a cut below what you would expect from a shirt in the price range.

The buttons used on the shirt are a mixture of crushed Mother of Pearl, resin, and plastic.

Stitching

In terms of stitching, Eton claims each shirt has about 12 000 stitches. No, I didn’t count every single one of them but I can tell you that the stitch density is very high at about 8 stitches per centimeters or about 20 stitches per inch. They also use single needle stitching on the sleeve and along the side seam and it is all machine-stitched. There is no hand-stitching but everything is very neat and accurate.

Eton claims that their shirts have a total of 12 000 stitches each – no, we didn’t count them.

The shirts are, of course, factory-made, so if you have a patterned shirt, not every pattern on the stripe or shoulders are aligned. Also, the yoke is not split, which is not a big deal for an off-the-rack shirt but if you go bespoke, having the ability to have different yokes allows you to accommodate a different shoulder slope. Also, of course, if you hand make a pattern, you can ensure that the stripes are all aligned and every pattern matches and looks super neat.

Eton shirts do not have a gusset but neither do very high-end shirts. One quirk that annoys quite a few people is the fact that Eton has only sewn-in plastic flexible collar stays so if you want a stiffer collar stay, you can’t add it because there’s no option for that.

Eton shirts only have sewn-in plastic flexible collar stays, so a stiffer collar is not an option.

3. Types of Shirts

Five years ago, Eton offered different ranges such as their red label which was more business-oriented, a green label which was softer, and then their DnA which was made in Sweden and more high-end. Today, it doesn’t seem they still offer those same ranges but they still offer dress shirts, evening shirts, and casual shirts.

Eton’s green label shirts.

4. Manufacturing

When I visited their factory, all their shirts were made in Eastern Europe, mostly in Romania and Lithuania, all the shirts I have from them today, which are five, are all made in Romania and even new shirts if you look at them, they’re mostly made in Romania. They don’t own their manufacturing facilities but have exclusive contracts with them, and they even supply them with logistics and their own machinery and equipment to ensure that the product is consistently good and of high-quality.

Eton shirts are mostly manufactured in Eastern Europe, mostly in Romania.

On their website, they no longer offer their DnA shirts, so I don’t think they produce shirts in Sweden anymore. The labor costs are just too expensive. On the flip side, Romania has one of the lower labor costs in all of Europe so it’s surprising that a shirt with such a high retail price is not made in Italy, for example, but in a much lower cost country like Romania.

Eton’s DnA line.

5. Fit

When it comes to fit, Eton offers four different options off the rack; that is classic, contemporary, slim, and super slim then they also have things like evening dress shirts and sleeves that are extra-long if you’re tall and can’t find shirts otherwise.

On their website, for an upcharge of what seems to be $40, you can get a custom shirt but it seems to be more like a made-to-measure or a made-to-order program. I know, they claim they offer both made-to-measure and made-to-order and I’m sure if you buy the shirts at the store, you get more information about that. Personally, I have not tried that service so I can’t really tell you much about it.

Eton offers four fit options off the rock: slim, super slim, contemporary, and classic.

My right shoulder is about two inches lower than my left one and it’s also sloped more, so for me, made-to-measure or made-to-order programs don’t really help that much if I want to get that perfect fit, especially considering that off-the-rack Eton shirts fit me pretty well even though I have relatively long arms and a long torso, but they accommodate for that.

In the US, contemporary is Eton’s most popular fit but it’s going head to head with a slim fit, which I own. It offers a tapered fit, back darts and it’s just overall slimmer than what you would usually find in the US. At the same time, it doesn’t feel overly constrictive when you move around because it has smaller armholes and enough room in the chest and the back.

Raphael’s right shoulder is two inches lower than his left one so MTM doesn’t really help much in getting the perfect fit for him.

On the other hand, your super slim fit is one of the most aggressively skinny fits on the market. Of course, it has back darts but it’s super tight and it’s ideal for men who want that skinny tight look or are just very slim themselves, and can’t find a shirt that fits up to their standards otherwise.

Their slim fit is somewhere in between the super slim and the contemporary fit and it’s what 65% of European men buy from Eton. They also have a classic fit that doesn’t have any tapering or any darts.

Raphael’s shirts are slim fit.

Normally, when I get off-the-rack shirts, the sleeves are typically too short but on my European size 41 which is about 16 inches, the sleeves are about 36 and a half inches long which is probably one and a half to two inches or about four to five centimeters longer than what I typically see in shirts now. If that isn’t long enough for you, they even have a very small section of extra long sleeves that you can get.

Also, because it’s a longer torso, it doesn’t come undone so easily which is something I appreciate. As I said, they’re really a great option if you’re looking for that super slim or skinny fit. I believe they’re not great for people who are on the shorter side who have maybe a little more weight on their hips and just don’t have a long torso.

Eton offers sleeves that are longer than typical shirts today.

Are You Getting the Value For Your Money?

In a nutshell, you get high-quality fabrics, you get lots of color options, you get lots of fit options. The workmanship is neat, the buttons don’t come off, and you can have this organic wrinkle-resistant treatment.

On the flip side, the buttons feel cheap, the collar stays can’t be removed, and in this price range, typically, you can find some hand contrast stitching in the shoulder area, for example, or like folded waterfall shoulders, which is not something you’ll find from Eton. You’ll definitely have to upgrade to something like Attolini, Finamore, or Kiton.

Are Eton shirts worth your money?

Why is Eton so popular among high-end retailers?

Just like any other business, a wholesaler or a retail store wants to make the most amount of money with the least amount of work. So, when in doubt, a retail store wants to sell you a shirt at a higher price because it has a higher margin and means more net profit for them than a comparable shirt that costs less.

Eton knows what the retailers need, and has put up a nice stock program.

Also, ideally, they want to tie up as little stock as possible because that requires capital, so they never want to run out of stock and always have a just-in-time delivery of the shirts they can sell to their customers. Of course, they also like to be listened to by the manufacturer, they want to be able to provide their ideas, and they want the customer to be happy with the fit, and they don’t want the buttons to come out for customers to be unhappy because returns are work and expensive.

Eton seems to figure out how to put together a nice stock program, how to keep their wholesale clients happy and it seems to check all those boxes and it’s probably one of the reasons why they have such a strong foothold with upscale menswear retailers.

Eton shirts have high-quality fabrics.

What does it mean for you as a customer?

Obviously, you have the chance to try things on in person at a store to feel the fabric and to touch it. At the same time, you also pay more money for that luxury. I would guess that if Eton was a direct consumer company, they could probably sell that same quality shirt at around 50% of today’s retail price.

That being said, that is true for any direct to consumer traditional retail company, at the same time retailers have really helped Eton to establish a strong brand, to spread the word, and to ultimately sell more shirts, so it’s a win for the retailer. It’s a win for Eton, and a win for the customer if they actually like the shirt. But because everyone along the way wants to earn money, the retail price is as high as it is.

High-quality garments from Eton.

I think, if you as a consumer just look at what quality you get for your money, you really have the option to get a nice made-to-measure shirt, even a bespoke shirt in Europe with exactly the details you want for around the same price as a new Eton off-the-rack shirt. Of course, you’d also have to travel to Italy to get that unless you’re there anyway.

Fortunately, most bigger cities have local made-to-measure shirt shops in the US. Finding a true bespoke shirt is a big challenge and of course, last but not least, you don’t get that non-iron treatment that makes Eton special.

You also have the option to go with a local made-to measure store or a bespoke tailor instead.

My Verdict: Is It Really Worth It?

First of all, I do not think that Eton makes the best dress shirts in the world. There are many other dress shirts and each and everyone has different needs and desires. If you want the ultimate amount of workmanship, they’re definitely not the best shirt. If you want the perfect fit, they’re definitely not the best shirt. If you want the best non-iron or wrinkle-resistant shirt, I think they are probably the best shirt you can buy in the market.

So, if an organic wrinkle-resistant treatment is important to you or maybe you don’t want to fuss with MTM and you want to see what you get, feel it, and touch it, then I think Eton is a good option and worth your money. Also, if you value unusual bold shirts with special prints, Eton can fill this niche market.

Eton is for you if you like shirts with bolder prints.

Personally, I find it valuable to have a few non-iron shirts in my closet because sometimes when I travel and I have to pack my shirts, I want to be sure that I don’t have to iron stuff all the time. So, yes, for me, they’re worth it for non-iron dress shirts 100%.

On the flip side, for linen or for casual shirts, I don’t like those bold patterns; I like more classic stuff, and I can find comparable fabrics and comparable shirts at a lower price elsewhere. So, in those cases, they’re not worth it to me.

If you like non-iron shirts, Eton is a good option.

I also sometimes like having the option to choose my exact fabric, maybe make a Winchester shirt out of it, and get the exact shape, fit, and style I want and Eton doesn’t give me that. Let’s say you want a Carlo Riva fabric or David and John Anderson, it’s not something you’ll find with Eton and you’ll have to go made-to-measure or bespoke.

Eton does have sales where you can get shirts at 40 to 50% off, and obviously, they become a much better value then. Still, apart from my non-iron shirts even at 50% off, I would rather go with an online made-to-measure company so you can get exactly what I want with a better fit at a lower price. If you’re on a really tight budget, you can find Eton shirts for relatively low prices in good shape on eBay still.

What’s your take on Eton dress shirts? Let us know in the comments!

Being a classic style enthusiast, regardless of your age group–teenage, young adult, middle-age, or beyond–comes with challenges when your friends, family, or peers just don’t seem to understand your style. Today, we’ll discuss how you can continue to express yourself via classic style and do so confidently, even when others seem to be unsupportive.

The Classic Style Enthusiast’s Challenge

One of the most frequent social media comments or emails that we get from our readers and viewers (especially our younger viewers) often goes something like this: “I want to dress up more, wear suits, or dress differently than the people around me–but my friends and family don’t understand or support my style choices. What can I do?”

I can definitely sympathize with men who feel this way. Personally speaking, I developed an interest in classic menswear in my early teens, but my parents were concerned that if I dressed too differently from my peers, combined with my general bookishness and a physical disability, that it might lead to social awkwardness or even bullying.

This is usually the question that we get from our readers and viewers, especially from the younger ones.

Fortunately, however, my friends and general peers were largely supportive of my experimentation as I got more into classic style, so I didn’t have to worry too much. But I do realize that this won’t be the case for everyone. And this back and forth with my parents through my teen years was a bit of a sore spot for a while, but thankfully they’ve now embraced the way that I dress; after all, it’s led to a career!

Preston developed his interest in classic menswear at a young age.

Meanwhile, in Raphael’s case, his family was never really all that interested in clothes, and dressing was really more a matter of function and cost than of style. So for both of us, as we developed this interest in classic style, it was because it resonated with us on a personal level, not because of any outside pressure from others to get into it. In fact, it might have been just the opposite.

Techniques To Deal with People Criticizing Your Style

So, if you’re experiencing pushback from friends, family, or peers about getting into classic style (whether you’re young or at any other age), here are six techniques we’ve come up with to work through this.

Are you experiencing pushback toward your style from the people around you? We’ve come up with 6 techniques to get through it!

1. Focus on things you can control.

In the case of many of our young readers and viewers, they may not have total control over the way that they dress, because they are financially dependent on their parents or caregivers. Thus, the clothes that are bought for them may be decided for them. There may also be other financial dependencies involved, or it could just be that their parents are particularly strict and try to control the way that they dress.

Being able to dress up at a young age is a different case for each person.

These situations aren’t easy to change, so the best thing to do here is to work with what is firmly in your control. For example, you can be persistent in asking why it is that you have to dress a certain way. Your goal here should be to negotiate and ultimately compromise with whoever is in control. It’s important to note here that you should be crafting arguments that are ultimately about you and not about others.

Expand your knowledge in classic menswear by reading related books and magazines.

So, for example, rather than saying, “Everybody else gets to wear what they want,” you should just say, “I’d like to dress this way because it makes me feel more comfortable with myself.”A related point here is to be resourceful with what you do have, using your free time to build your menswear knowledge or to go to vintage or secondhand stores if you have the ability.

2. Consider this journey as a right of passage.

This one may sound like cold comfort for our younger viewers, but horrifying your parents with your clothing choices is something that almost every young person has to do. In this case, though, it might just be that you’re horrifying them with slightly more conservative choices! For example, in Raphael’s generation, the “grunge” look was definitely vilified by parents. For another, Raphael’s father once asked his father-in-law why he wanted to “look like a girl” with the long hair that he sported in the ’60s.

People will probably just be slightly surprised by your more conservative choices in clothes.

But going through this bit of struggle can actually be an important part of becoming more of an adult and asserting your independence. Two things are occurring here; the first is individuation, or forming your own independent identity. The second is detachment, or the gradual separation between yourself and those that have power or influence over your life.

Most likely, the people around you will eventually accept your style.

Of course, even if you’re not currently a teenager, if you’re just getting into the world of classic menswear, it might not be the case that all of your peers are going to immediately embrace it. So, the lessons in this post aren’t just for young people. You can also take a bit of comfort in the fact that eventually, people will probably stop picking on your style once they see that it is in fact a genuine expression of who you are and that it’s not going to stop anytime soon.

3. Most of the negativity directed at you is really about them.

On a subconscious level, some people may interpret your style choices as an attack on their choices. In other words, they might feel threatened that other people have the courage to dress differently from the mainstream when they themselves don’t. So, because you’re not wearing what they’re wearing, they may interpret this as a rejection of their style rather than an embrace of your own personal style.

The fact is that your style choices probably have almost nothing to do with them, and are instead centered entirely around your own self. So the more that you can internalize that this might be about the insecurities of other people, so much the better.

Some people might feel that your choice of style is an attack on theirs.

Alternatively here though, and as it was the case for me, it might also be that your parents’ or friends’ concern is ultimately coming from a place of care, wanting to shield you from criticism or ridicule. And while this situation is ultimately well-meaning, do try to push back a little bit and assert some of that independence by making your own style choices. After all, it’s not as if you’re rebelling here by doing anything dangerous or harmful to yourself or others!

It could also be that your friends and family’s concern about your choice of style is coming from a place of care.

You could try incorporating more of these changes gradually over time, and see what kind of feedback you get. Remember that it may sometimes be about negotiation.

4. Build up your defenses to better rebuff criticism.

Our next tip here is building up your own defenses so that you can easily and comfortably deflect criticism about your style. In times where you’re alone and in a good mental headspace, try practicing your responses to some of the taunting you might receive from other people, like: “Why are you wearing that? Why are you so dressed up? Going to a wedding we didn’t know about?” or “What’s the occasion?”

You have a number of different response options here. If you feel that you can get away with being a little snarky, your first choice is to simply parry these questions back at the other person. So you could ask them, “Why are you dressed that way?” Of course, this might not be the most gentlemanly option, so there are a few others at your disposal. You could try injecting a bit of wit into the exchange, such as by saying “I’m dressed this way because it’s Tuesday” or “I knew I was going to be seeing you, so I wanted to look my best.”

Train your mind in getting used to questions taunting your outfit, and practice coming up with witty answers!

And perhaps the safest choice of all is simply to answer honestly. You can simply say, “I’m dressed this way because it’s what I like to wear.” Remember that if you act sheepish or embarrassed in this situation, some people might see this as a weakness that they can exploit in you. They might be seeking to make you question yourself, and therefore to be able to feel power over you. So, the best way to defuse this situation is by not giving the other individual any conversational power over you, and answering in a way that allows you to retain that power. 

Be confident about your style. [Shantung Striped Tie and Carnation Boutonniere from Fort Belvedere]

A lesson from Mean Girls

While not totally within our wheelhouse, a great example of this phenomenon comes from the 2004 film, Mean Girls. One character cuts holes in another character’s shirt in an effort to embarrass her, but then she simply wears it proudly, defusing the whole situation and maintaining her own power.

In the movie Mean Girls, Regina George proudly walked around the school wearing her “damaged” top. After a month, everyone can be seen copying this particular “style” from her. (Image Credit: Paramount Pictures)

So, raise your head up high, don’t apologize, don’t rationalize, and be proud. After all, you have nothing to apologize for in this circumstance. On that note though, there are situations where all of us make errors and in those situations, and a true gentleman knows how to apologize.

5. Learn to gracefully accept a compliment.

Even though the majority of this post has focused on other people giving you grief for the way you’re dressing, you might also encounter people giving you genuine compliments, and this might make you feel a bit embarrassed if you’re just starting out on your style journey. But of course, compliments are a good thing, so it pays to know how to be gracious when you receive them, as befits a gentleman. 

Knowing how to gracefully accept a compliment is a hallmark of a gentleman.

Of course, some people might not be genuine with a compliment and instead approach it from a place of sarcasm. If you find yourself on the receiving end of this, however, simply treat the compliment as though it were genuine, and this will more likely than not disarm the conversation.

Accept every compliment as if it were genuine, even if you feel that it’s coming from a place of sarcasm.

6. Don’t let other people change you.

Finally here, when all is said and done, don’t let other people deter you from who you truly are and want to make yourself into. It may well be that you’re at a point in your life right now where, for any number of reasons, you simply can’t dress the way you actually want to. But don’t let this be the thing that kills your passion!

Keep consuming content, reading, and researching to build your wealth of menswear knowledge. Learn about things like brands, production techniques, and what quality means for your style. Create lists with the clothes you want, where to shop for them, and how much you think you might need to spend. Then, keep working toward your independence, and you will get there one day.

Keep on building your knowledge of classic menswear.

Or, for more concrete inspiration, you could also turn to other men around the web who have definitely embraced their own style. For someone more in our wheelhouse, you could look at Dandy Wellington, or you could also look at the Regency Gent, a man in his 20s who wears nothing but regency attire every day.

Look to figures like Dandy Wellington as examples of confidence in one’s personal style.

Conclusion

Style is a representation of personal identity, so you shouldn’t be embarrassed if your style is making a strong statement, because this just means that you’re secure in your own identity. So long as you can back this up with class and grace, that’s one more step on the road to becoming a true gentleman.

How do you deal with someone who criticizes your style? Share your gentlemanly response in this situation!

Have you ever bought something that you’re convinced is going to be the greatest thing ever–and a short while later, you’ve completely changed your mind? You’re not alone! Buyer’s remorse is something that happens to many, if not, all of us. Here are 12 such examples in my wardrobe, and suggestions for more stylish alternatives.

By the way, both Raphael and Preston have compiled similar lists of regrettable items, so be sure to check those out, too!

Wardrobe Items I Regret Buying

1. Fingerless Driving Gloves

You have to admit they look pretty cool–but unless you really need that much extra grip strength when driving around in your Prius, you probably should leave these alone, lest you look like a burglar. I felt incredible in the store at first, but I soon realized I didn’t have a genuine place or time to wear these gloves, so they were never worn. And then, of course, there’s the small issue of me not currently owning or driving a luxury car like an Aston Martin, a Bugatti, a Corvette, or anything like that!

Fingerless driving gloves are best left alone–especially when more classic alternatives are available!

For a selection of high-quality driving gloves, though, it’s worth checking out the offerings from the Fort Belvedere shop.

2. Denim Jackets

I really enjoy denim jackets and I’ve bought a few of them over the years, but I almost never wear them. I believe they sit in my closet because of the typical shorter body length that denim jackets are almost always offered in.

Wearing a denim jacket that is a bit shorter in length isn’t really the best look for a tall man like Kyle.

I usually prefer wearing jackets that go a little bit past my waist. I’m already tall to begin with, so wearing something in a shorter body length like a denim jacket makes me feel like I’m shopping at Gap Kids.

3. Over-Embellished Clothing

Now, we all might have our own interpretation of what “over-embellished” actually means. But I’m not referring to clothing that represents a particular cultural heritage, or that has a certain type of functionality; for example, extra pockets on a military garment. I’m talking about clothing that is so busy that an onlooker will be quite distracted when they try to talk to you.

Over-embellished clothing can be quite distracting to onlookers.

Clothing that has so many buttons, patterns, colors–one has to wonder where in the world you’re actually going? I once bought a few shirts like this; so many colors, stripes, and patterns, that if I were to wear it in a crowd, you would never lose me.

4. Faux Glasses

It’s not that I dislike the concept of wearing faux glasses from time to time, but the style of frame that I chose was just a little bit too trendy for me. Going forward, I will stick to glasses that actually help me see. Crazy concept, I know, but I will still keep an eye out for some fun faux glasses to wear from time to time for a fun occasion.

Kyle’s faux glasses then were just too trendy for him.

Need help choosing the right eyeglasses or sunglasses? We’ve put together a bunch of guides you’ll enjoy!

5. Acrylic Scarves

I suppose I could have also said “acrylic anything,” as I’m not a huge fan of this material. However, acrylic scarves in particular are something I highly regret purchasing. Initially, I was quite happy with my selection. I liked the style of the scarf, but I soon found that after wearing it, in the middle of the day, I would find large clumps of the acrylic fabric on my beard and head, which was very irritating.

Acrylic scarves get worn out easily.

Lesson learned: I got what I paid for. In the future, I’m investing in better quality scarves, especially those made from natural fibers.

6. Madras Shorts

In truth, I’ve really liked all the madras shorts that I purchased. I wore them around for a while, but then I soon realized that I looked like I had just retired. In other words, they were not an age-appropriate fit or style for me. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t try them, though, especially if your style skews more traditional (like Raphael’s and Preston’s, for example).

Madras shorts are probably just not for everyone.

7. Fast-Fashion Shirts

I enjoy the ease of being able to supplement my closet with an inexpensive shirt to wear on occasion. But I’ve found these fast fashion shirts to occasionally break down in the laundry and to very often be too tight across my chest.

Fast-fashion shirts often break down easily and don’t suit all body types.

I still browse for shirts from stores like Gap or American Eagle from time to time, but I prefer–and recommend that you buy–high-quality products from reputable brands to prevent future headaches.

8. Linen Pants

These are so comfortable, lightweight, and airy–but they wrinkle like no other! We know that the wrinkle is a natural feature of the linen fabric. However, this amazing feature might make one look as though they are wearing pajama pants. This may come down to the fit and styling of the trousers so again, it depends on the style you are going for. 

Linen pants are comfortable and lightweight, but they wrinkle like no other.

9. Low-Quality No-Show Socks

Nothing can be as irritating to me as when I’m starting a run at the gym or walking around in a nice outfit, and all of a sudden, I start to feel my socks take on a bit of a mind of their own and crawl below my heel. Then I have to completely stop what I’m doing, take off my shoes and pull my socks back down my feet.

Nothing’s more irritating than a low-quality no-show pair of socks that has a poor heel grip.

This tends to happen on a lot of low-quality socks, where the fabric is shrinking and the grip on the heel is just not that strong. Fort Belvedere doesn’t offer no-show socks yet, but stay tuned!

10. Narrow Dress Shoes

I remember buying a really sharp pair of leather dress shoes many years ago, but every time I wore them, they felt incredibly tight across my toes. I told myself, “They’re leather, they’ll stretch out.” But you might have already guessed, they did not stretch out. I ended up walking around the rest of the day like a newborn giraffe; my feet were not happy with me. I have learned my lesson: take the time to try on different shoe widths at a store.

No matter the style, at the end of the day, it is always important to choose a pair of shoes that has the right fit.

11. Heavy Dress Shirts

I don’t know if you’re anything like me, but I’ve got this incredible ability to get really warm and sweaty and to look like I just ran a mile when I haven’t even done anything. Therefore, I find it incredibly helpful to invest in clothing that breathes easily. Heavy clothing (and a shirt in particular) that doesn’t breathe easily is usually going to just sit in my closet, and I will avoid putting it on.

For Kyle, shirts that are breathable and lightweight are more practical to invest in.

12. Hats

I really like hats and the different styles we can all choose from. I’ll occasionally buy a hat style that I enjoy, but I always go back to my default hat choice of a baseball cap. Every time I try on a fedora or buy a trendy beanie cap style over the winter, I almost never wear it and it just collects dust in my closet.

Kyle would always end up not wearing his hats.

As with a few other items on this list, this all comes down to my personal style. However, if you’re curious about trying to add classic hats to your wardrobe, our series on hats might be helpful.

Conclusion: How to Rid Yourself of Regrettable Purchases

We’ve all had a time where we bought something that we thought was fantastic, but soon had a change of heart and regretted that purchase. Whether you bought these items because of peer pressure or a desire to not miss out on a movement or a trend, don’t lose heart. There’s plenty of ways that you can rid your closet of these things that you no longer want.

Don’t just throw your stuff away; donate or resell it instead.

Two of my personal favorite ways are donating and reselling. Donating is a great (and environmentally friendly) way to give those gently used items to someone who could really use them. Reselling is another option I occasionally will use, as I like recouping some of the lost money I spent on that item.

What menswear items have you regretted buying, and why? Share with us in the comments section! 

While it may seem simple at first to put together menswear outfits (especially if you’re working with something like a suit, which has a matching jacket and trousers), how good a finished outfit looks can actually come down to some of the smaller details! Read on to discover seven such details that can be “make or break” features of an ensemble.

When you consider all of the different individual pieces that come together to make up even an everyday look, the prospect of putting together a truly polished outfit can start to seem a bit more daunting, but these tips will surely help you to more confidently assemble your outfits.

7 Details that Make or Break an Outfit

Break an Outfit #1: Matching Tie and Pocket Square

The first detail that can break an outfit is to wear a tie and pocket square of matching material. Whether you’re shopping online or in a department store, it can be fairly easy to find tie and pocket square sets that make both pieces from the same fabric. However, wearing these together is usually the mark of a man who’s just getting started on his menswear journey. There are multiple reasons why wearing ties and pocket squares of the same fabric don’t create a good look, and the first is that there isn’t going to be enough of a pleasing visual contrast between the two accessories.

Matching tie-and-pocket-square sets are sartorially uninspired and often made from cheap fabrics).

Also, consider the idea that human bodies are naturally slightly asymmetrical, as are suit jackets–or any other kind of jacket, for that matter–because there is only a breast pocket on the left side (though it can sometimes be found on the right side). If you’re wearing a tie and pocket square of the same fabric, you’ve got that element on both the center of your body and on one side, but this reinforces the asymmetry because there isn’t also a matching element on the other side of the body.

Wearing a tie and a pocket square with the same pattern reinforces the asymmetry on your body.

But, given that the jacket’s breast pocket is largely decorative it would probably look silly if a jacket were to have two breast pockets and indeed if you were to wear two pocket squares at the same time. As a supplementary point here, the ties and pocket squares that are often sold in these sets are typically made from lower-quality materials like synthetics and polyester and are often in overly shiny satin finishes that typically just look cheap. As you might expect, the root cause of this is manufacturers trying to cut costs by using more of the same fabric.

Make an Outfit #1: Complementary Tie and Pocket Square

To change this around and make your outfit, wear a tie and pocket square that while not exactly the same, do work to complement one another. And indeed, if your chosen styles are either simple classic or both, choosing ties and pocket squares that work well with each other can be a fairly easy task.

A well-combined pocket square and tie will definitely earn you compliments. (tie, pocket square, and boutonniere from Fort Belvedere).

In the broad strokes, the main point here is that if you’re wearing both a tie and pocket square, you should try to make one of the accessories bolder and one a bit more grounded and neutral. Furthermore, if one of the accessories has a color that the other accessory picks up on, they will be harmonious and working in tandem.

Stylish combination: Silk Tie in Jacquard Burgundy Red with White Polka Dots paired with a white pocket square.

Nine times out of ten, if you’re in doubt about how to combine a pocket square with a tie going with a simple white linen square, is almost always a safe bet. As an extra point here: if you do happen to have some of those matching tie and pocket square sets sitting around, try to mix and match the ties and pocket squares instead of wearing them in their original matching sets.

Break an Outfit #2: Sneakers with A Suit

Over the last two decades or so, as attitudes about suit-wearing have gotten more informal and more creative, a growing trend has been for men to pair sneakers or other types of sports shoes with their suits. This trend is often discussed in menswear magazines or in online forums as a great way to dress down a suit, but in our estimation, the difference in formality between a conventional suit and a pair of sneakers is just too great, and the overall effect is, again, disharmonious.

Wearing a pair of sneakers with a suit looks quite disharmonious in our opinion.

Of course, there’s nothing wrong with having a pair or two of sneakers in your wardrobe to wear with other more casual ensembles. What we’re simply saying is that you shouldn’t attempt to wear sneakers with more formal ensembles like full suits.

Make an Outfit #2: Go with Classic Dress Shoes

We believe that the ideal companion for a suit and a way to make your outfit is to pair it with a pair of classic dress shoes. Indeed, classic dress shoes transcend fashion to always be in style and if you’re wearing a pair of dress shoes that are well made with quality materials on a classic last shape that fits your foot, they can even be more comfortable than sneakers.

Invest in quality dress shoes – not only that they pair well with a suit, but they would also last you for a long time.

Furthermore, if you know how to polish and maintain them a quality pair of dress shoes will probably last longer than a pair of sneakers in the long run as well. Applying the right kinds of polishes and creams, using shoe trees, and alternating the days on which you wear a given pair of shoes will help to extend its lifespan.

If you form a good relationship with a local cobbler you can get your shoes resoled to extend their life even further. This is because the soles of quality dress shoes are stitched onto the upper rather than being glued or cemented as is more common with other more casual shoe styles.

A classic pair of dress shoes is the ideal companion of a suit.

If you’d like to change up the look of your shoe or be a bit more playful, changing the laces is a great way to do this. If you’re new to building a dress shoe wardrobe, we have a list of 5 essential dress shoes to get you started. 

Break an Outfit #3: Dress Shoes with Gym Socks

Similar to sneakers, the origins of gym socks lie in their use for sporting or athletic type events only and they’ve only become more popular in everyday wear as things have become further casualized. However, also in a similar fashion to sneakers, they shouldn’t be paired with formal outfits.

A pair of white gym socks doesn’t combine well with formal outfits.

Not only is there a clash in the relative formality between your shoes and socks in this case, but also gym socks are typically woven in a chunkier style so they can make your feet hotter and sweat more when they’re in dress shoes and indeed, can actually distort the shape of your dress shoes over time.

Make an Outfit #3: Go with Over-the-Calf Socks

The better choice for pairing with your dress shoes then is a quality pair of over the calf dress socks. Socks like these, such as the ones that we offer at Fort Belvedere are made from finer cotton and thus regulate the temperature of your feet better allowing them to breathe more and sweat less.

Over The Calf Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks by Fort Belvedere

The finer cotton will also feel somewhat like a second skin remaining comfortable all day and not bunching up. Furthermore, if they’re worn in an over-the-calf style, they should stay up all day instead of sliding down.

Break an Outfit #4: Too Many Accessories

There are a wide array of different accessory choices in the field of classic menswear and especially for those who are just getting into the hobby, it can be tempting to load up your outfit with as many different types of accessories as you can get your hands on. However, there comes a point where the cumulative effect of all of this hardware is just going to look too crowded, loud, and flashy like a cry for attention.

Having too many accessories in an outfit will look too crowded, flashy, and cry for attention.

Furthermore, all of these individual accessories are probably going to end up fighting with one another for visual control of the outfit and the overall effect will simply look too busy.

Make an Outfit #4: Fewer, Refined Accessories

The seasoned gentleman will add a tasteful amount of accessories as and when necessary to complement the rest of his outfit. Essentially, think of your overall approach to accessories as being in quality over quantity mindset. Well-made metal jewelry in particular will get better with age as it develops a slight patina that will provide a unique bit of personality just to you.

Have a “quality over quantity” approach when it comes to wearing accessories.

Break an Outfit #5: Wearing Suits with T-shirts

Our fifth outfit breaker today is another more modern trend: pairing suit jackets or indeed full suits with t-shirts underneath. In fact, this trend is often paired together with the sneakers and suits trend we discussed earlier. As a point of clarification, what we’re referring to specifically in today’s post is pairing t-shirts with full suits.

A sport coat could be a better option if pairing with a t-shirt, as David Gandy shows here.

While we do believe there might be the occasional time and place where an odd jacket could be pulled off with a t-shirt style, the clash in formality levels between a t-shirt and a full suit is, in our opinion, just too great.

Make an Outfit #5: Wear a Dress Shirt

It should come as no surprise that what we would suggest being worn under a tailored jacket of any style is a proper men’s dress shirt. The structured collar of a dress shirt is going to frame your face well regardless of whether you choose to add neckwear or go without and simply leave your top button unbuttoned.

Formalize your outfit with a collared dress shirt and tasteful accessories

And, while a t-shirt is typically a short-sleeved option, a dress shirt with long sleeves should show a bit of shirt cuff over the edges of your jacket sleeves, providing more balance and harmony to the outfit. 

A beautiful OCBD by Turnbull and Asser

If you are looking to tone down the formality of an overall look, we would suggest a smart choice would be an Oxford cloth button-down shirt. This shirt style is a classic and timeless option that’s been worn by stylish men for decades, and while it is a bit more casual, having its roots in Preppy, Trad, and Ivy styles, it isn’t going to create as stark a contrast as a t-shirt would.

Break an Outfit #6: Poor-Quality Fabrics

In today’s retail landscape characterized by fast fashion, the need to get new looks and styles out every season means that most manufacturers and retailers are going to try to cut some corners in order to get goods out as quickly as possible.

And, time isn’t the only factor here as retailers want to offer a wider range of products to consumers at a seemingly overall lower price.

Garments made from synthetic fabric materials like polyester are usually sold at a much cheaper price.

What both of these factors contribute to then is that especially in the fast-fashion world, most garments today are going to be made from lower quality fabrics. Polyester, nylon, and other synthetic materials are fairly cheap to produce thus they are priced by manufacturers as being low cost.

However, synthetic fabrics tend not to breathe well which will increase your body temperature, might make you sweat more, and is going to make you less comfortable overall. And while some retailers might try to game the system a bit by blending synthetic materials with natural fibers, the laws on how this must be displayed on tags or marketed on websites can vary from location to location.

Other manufacturers, on the other hand, would try to up the game by blending synthetic materials with natural fibers.

For example, a garment might be able to be sold as premium cotton but looking at the composition tag will show that there’s actually a mixture of different elements. And, while you may pay less for a synthetic or other low-quality fabric garment at first, the fact is that these cheaper materials are going to discolor, stretch out, and wear through faster than a natural fiber, meaning that your overall cost per wear metric is probably going to be higher in the long run.

Make an Outfit #6: High-Quality, Natural Fibers

To make your outfits and indeed your wardrobe better overall then, we would advocate for buying garments that have high-quality natural fibers whenever possible. With the right care and attention, garments made from natural fibers are going to last longer and look better than their synthetic counterparts and indeed, this is evidenced by the fact that you can find so many natural fiber garments available in vintage and second-hand stores.

Raphael & Preston on a vintage hunt

Whether you’re purchasing pre-owned or new, garments with natural fibers are going to have a longer lifespan and thus a lower overall cost per wear, and natural quality fabrics are going to look fantastic too, as they’ll have natural finishes or textures that will add a sense of refinement to your outfits.

Break an Outfit #7: Poorly Fitting Clothes

Finally today, our seventh outfit breaker is one that we’ve discussed many times on the website: wearing poorly fitting clothes. As we’ve said many times, no matter what the fabric quality of a garment is, if it fits your frame poorly, it’s still going to lead to a sloppy look overall.

Regardless of how stylish your outfit is, it would still look sloppy if the fit is not right.

Of course, it can be tempting to purchase an ill-fitting garment especially if it fills a gap in your wardrobe, is well-made, or if it’s on sale.

Don’t be taken in by a flashy sale offer; unless the garments are of high-quality and fit you well, no discount will be worth it!

If there’s a particular brand cachet associated with the label, this might also be an incentivizing point but even if you do have a loyalty to a particular brand or think that displaying their logo will earn you respect from your peers, this is not going to have the desired effect if the garment is indeed ill-fitting. And as we’ve said before, just because an item is discounted or on sale, doesn’t mean you should buy it if it’s not going to fit you.

Make an Outfit #7: Know Your Proper Size

The best course of action, then, is to know your measurements and your typical sizes in various garments, as between different brands sizes can actually vary a bit and how they’ll fit on you even if their numbering is the same.

Know your measurements; everyone has their own unique build

Even if you do know your sizes and measurements and can buy garments off the rack that fit you reasonably well, an even better choice is to take them to a skilled alterations tailor to get the fit that much more exact.

Even if you know your measurements, it’s also a good idea to take them to a skilled alterations tailor to get the perfect fit.

Seemingly small tasks like hemming a trouser leg, taking in the waist of a jacket, or adding darts to the back of a shirt can have a large effect on how a garment fits you and indeed how it contributes to your outfit and overall look. Of course, it will help if the garment generally fits you well to start with as even a skilled tailor isn’t going to be able to make a garment fit you if the size is much too big or too small to start out with.

Conclusion

We hope our rundown of these seven details has been helpful for men who are just starting out on their style journey and even for those seasoned clotheshorses who just needed a bit of tuning up. If you’d like to learn about even more common men’s style mistakes you can get the top 15 just by signing up for our email list and our E-book with the top 50 is available in the Fort Belvedere shop.

Have you fallen prey to any of these “outfit breakers” in the past! Share with us in the comments section!

We’ve written extensively about gift-giving on the Gentleman’s Gazette for this one reason: it can be tricky! It’s more of an art than a science. Furthermore, there are stakes involved: great gifts will reap appreciation, and bad gifts can create disappointment in your relationships. Today, we’ll share six great gifting suggestions for the gentlemen in your life!

Mastering the Art of Gift Giving

Gifts you give reflect the knowledge and love you have the person you’re giving them to, so it’s worth the time to invest to learn how to do it well. You may need to give gifts as part of your work or business, so the stakes are still there, but they’re no less important. A bad gift might cost you a client, but a good gift might open a new door.

For example, Raphael and Teresa once received an engraved Cutco knife from a company touting the power of business gifts–but said company failed miserably to accomplish their objective. This company didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t take the time to research, that Raphael and Teresa are avid home chefs and have very specific knife preferences. A knife that failed a basic sharpness test on arrival not only failed to impress them, but also reflected that the company did not truly know them and also was trying to buy their attention and not earn it.

Given that Raphael and Teresa are avid home chefs, a low-quality knife made for a poor gift.

The art of gift-giving is something we’ll all do for a lifetime, so, in our guide on How To Give Great Gifts, we laid out ten principles on the art of selecting what you will give. It’s worth reading closely to learn the techniques that you can employ to make sure that your choice is lined up perfectly for the recipient. Like any action, it makes sense to know the end goal with gift-giving: ensure that the gift is thoughtful, carefully considered, and chosen specifically for the recipient. Most individuals will pick up on whether or not a gift was personalized, and whether or not you put much thought into it. That doesn’t make it any easier to do! 

Some people may not like the gift and may not appreciate the thought behind it.

So, are there truly timeless gifts that you’re able to fall back on? We think so! And even though the ten principles are key, there are gifts that never go out of style.

Characteristics of Timeless Gifts

1. It’s High-Quality

This means the product you’re purchasing has a higher degree of value, a longer potential lifespan, or excellence compared to similar products or services. These products are created using the best quality material available and durable construction methods for the best longevity. For example, you can choose wool or cashmere over polyester.

Give gifts made with high-quality materials–for example, Fort Belvedere linen pocket squares. That way, you can ensure longevity.

2. It’s Classic

Fads and trends can make for tricky gifts because they don’t last. They might be the hot gift item at the moment, but they will likely lose their value.

Trendy items are more likely to lose value over time.

3. It’s Life-Enhancing

Will this gift help the recipient enjoy life more? Consider practical gifts carefully as they can send a different message than a gift that’s been designed.

Give gifts that you know would be very useful to the recipient.

6 Timeless Gifts for Gentlemen

1. Luxury Food Products

We’re starting with food because it’s got universal appeal. We all have to eat, and specialty food items can be a thoughtful gift for the people in your life. We think with food, it’s important that you select something that is special and not an everyday food item. A fruit basket might be classic, but to us, it’s neither interesting nor unique.

Real Balsamic Vinegar

How to make a food gift special? Try looking for things that are rare, imported, or too expensive for everyday eating. Start by considering the tastes of your recipient and then try selecting something like a 30-year aged balsamic vinegar; the real stuff is actually really hard to find: caviar or wagyu beef, premium olive oil, or a real New York cheesecake.

You can also consider using websites like Goldbelly to send a whole range of nostalgia food items as gifts.

2. Fine Cookware

For the enthusiastic home chef, cookware (or a cooking accessory) is a great gift if you know their tastes. Some classic and enduring kitchen gifts include a cast-iron skillet, a carbon steel pan, other cast iron pans like a dutch oven or a brazier, a monogrammed apron, salt and pepper mills, or Japanese knives like Shun.

You can give fine cookware such as a Dutch oven as a gift to someone who loves cooking.

3. Premium Spirits

Premium spirits depend very much on the tastes of the recipient, but they can be an excellent gift for even the most comprehensive bar owner. Now to make this gift special, avoid basic, bar-staple spirits like Jack Daniels or Beefeater Gin, which are available at almost any store.

Consider giving premium spirits as gifts rather than giving ones that are commonly available in groceries, etc.

Instead, try visiting your local store–no, not Costco! Then ask them for their recommendations on what spirit would make a great gift. For example, gin, scotch, whiskey, or bourbon.

4. Personally Curated Gift Baskets

Giving a gift that is personally assembled for the recipient is touching purely for the effort it requires. Pre-assembled gift baskets should be avoided, and they are often filled with packaging more than a product. And, the contents are paltry relative to the overall look. For example, a pickle and jerky subscription may be creative, but you’ll also pay a steep premium, and it will still lack that personal touch.

You can perhaps give food baskets with curated items as gifts to family and friends.

Meanwhile, a gift basket hand-assembled by you can contain an assortment of things that your recipient might like: for example, a selection of gourmet cheeses from your local cheese store with olives, fig spread, cheese knives, a mini cutting board, fresh pears, charcuterie, and nuts. Or, try a selection of liqueurs and bitters for cocktail fanatics, a selection of exotic IPAs for the hops lover, or you can make kits for a specific cocktail. 

5. Classic Accessories (That Aren’t Sized)

Buying clothing and accessories for a dapper gent can be a bit of a challenge, as they may have their own vision for their personal style. However, gifting accessories can considerably lighten the risk because there are a few key ones that are not sized and won’t limit their ability to wear them.

Scarves

Our top recommendations for timeless accessories are scarves. We recommend choosing premium materials like alpaca or cashmere for warmth and longevity. Try choosing muted or solid colors or classic patterns like a black watch tartan that will pair nicely with an overcoat in tan or navy; you want some contrast.

Fort Belvedere Cashmere Scarf in Forest Green

Cufflinks

Cufflinks are the ultimate gentleman’s accessory. A traditional pair can last a lifetime and can be worn for weddings, cocktail parties, black tie events, or even to the office. For a reserved gent, opt for a monkey’s fist in silver or gold.

Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Deep Blue Lapis Lazuli – Fort Belvedere

Wallets

Wallets are one of the most overlooked gift options, but despite their everyday carry purpose, why not have a functional wallet that expresses some style and uniqueness?

Men’s Leather Wallet in Burgundy and Turquoise Deerskin with 10 Card Slots by Fort Belvedere

Most men’s wallet choices are quite boring; black and brown? Come on, don’t be afraid of a little color! The wallet will most likely be in a coat pocket most of the time anyway. Our Fort Belvedere wallets are two-toned for a pop of color, so check out our interesting color combinations in the shop.

Classic Sunglasses

Sunglasses are probably the trickiest of this category, but a classic frame is always going to have a place in a gentleman’s wardrobe. We recommend you stick with the true classics for gifts such as aviators, wayfarers, and clubmasters from Ray-Ban, and Persols 649 and 714.

Classic RayBan Aviator Sunglasses

7. Personal Care Gifts

Personal care can be, well, very personal! This is the one gift area you should truly tread lightly, and should only attempt to purchase a gift in this area if you’re very close to the recipient. We love traditional bar soap, for instance, but that doesn’t mean that the recipient will interpret the gesture as a kind one. Instead, they may interpret it as a verdict on their hygiene.

Grooming products would make a great gift to someone who truly enjoys skincare.

However, if you know your recipient well enough to understand some of their preferences, there are some personal care items that make excellent gifts.

Fragrances

Given that there is so much variety in fragrances, a scent can be a great addition to any man’s collection. We’ve covered eight classic fragrances previously and then followed it up with ten more. More specifically, Creed is one of these classic fragrance brands that we happen to love.

Royal-Oud and Green Irish Tweed from House of Creed.

Shaving Products

Other personal care options include:

• A premium shaving cream or soap; we like the Truefitt & Hill shaving cream bowl,
• A double-edged razor handle for the man who likes a great shave; our team favors the Slant and Futur handles from Merkur,
• And a shaving brush for the man who already enjoys a double-edged razor shave.

The very aggressive Merkur Slant Bar razor would make a great gift for someone who likes a great shave.

Need more ideas for this gift category? You might pick up something from our post on our favorite grooming products.

Conclusion

Thoughtful gift-giving is an art that a gentleman acknowledges as important, and timeless gifts are a good place to start. Not only will it make the recipient feel special, but it will also nurture your relationships.

What’s a gift you’d like to give and/or receive? Share your gift-giving ideas, as well as your wishlist, in the comments section!

In addition to keeping your hands warm, gloves also help to elevate your cool-weather outfits. While there are certainly cheaper choices on the market that accomplish these tasks (with varying levels of success), it should be no surprise that we recommend gloves from Fort Belvedere! Read on to discover why we’re proud of our gloves, and why we think you’ll love them, too.

What Makes Fort Belvedere Gloves So Special?

Many have asked us, “Why are Fort Belvedere gloves so expensive?” There’s a number of different reasons, but it all starts with the leather, and we use what we believe is the best glove leather available on the market today. We started from family tanneries in Germany and Italy, which both have more than 100 years of tanning experience. Top-notch leather, best leather, top grain leather are all phrases you’ll hear from other brands but often they don’t back up what it usually means.

Sven Raphael Schneider in windowpane flannel suit and Burgundy Red Suede Unlined Leather Men’s Gloves with Button by Fort Belvedere

Fortunately, we’re different. So, what doest best glove leather mean? First of all, it has to be really flexible so you can easily move your fingers. It has to be also durable so you can enjoy your gloves for years to come. And last but not the least, it has to be really thin so it looks elegant and not bulky when you wear your gloves. And that, are the big differences between high-end gloves and lower end men’s dress gloves.

Gloves For Every Occasion

Of course, like so often in menswear, there’s not just one thing that is best for any occasion and any person. So it depends on what you want to do with your gloves. If you look at driving gloves, for example, it’s paramount that the leather is supremely thin that you can really feel the steering wheel. Also, you want the leather to be very soft so it’s not distracting from your driving experience.

Racing Red and Sand Driving Gloves in Lamb Nappa Leather by Fort Belvedere

On the other hand, a pair of gloves that you wear with a tweed coat or a pair of gloves that you use shoveling snow should probably be a little thicker and lined, of course, so you stay warm. 

Materials Used in Fort Belvedere Gloves

Lamb Nappa Leather

The rawhides of raw lamb Nappa leather come from Ethiopia because the climate there allows for the fine leather to be very durable and very thin. And then we have it tanned at a family tannery in Italy that specializes in nothing but lamb leathers.

Petrol Blue Men’s Gloves with Button in Lamb Nappa Leather

Touch Screen Sensitive

We had some customers who asked, “Can you make a touchscreen glove so I can touch my navigation system in my car?” And we obliged. So, if you don’t actually have a touchscreen glove that is screen sensitive, you have various options. One, you can use some fabric that is touchscreen-sensitive or specific leather and material and it looks odd; and it’s not worthy of a Fort Belvedere dress glove.

We also experimented with a different option where you could add a touchscreen solution to the finished leather in the fingertip area. The problem was it would work on some gloves but not reliably on others and we never wanted to sell them as touchscreen gloves.

Many of our customers asked for a touchscreen pair of gloves and we obliged.

So, the best solution to this problem was to actually add the touchscreen capability in form of a chemical during the tanning and dyeing process so every single piece of the leather is touchscreen sensitive. And no, it does not rely on heat transfer. You can just use the glove to make the screen work. Pretty impressive, right?

The downside of this touchscreen leather is that it’s not as soft as the original lamb Nappa leather. It’s noticeably stiffer, it has a slight shine into it, and it’s just a trade-off. Because of that, we have both versions. Some are touchscreen gloves, others are not so you can pick whatever works for you.

Burgundy Touchscreen Gloves by Fort Belvedere

Personally, I have both the regular lamb Nappa and the touchscreen so I can pick and choose depending on the occasion. For our regular, non-touchscreen lamb Nappa gloves that are dressed gloves and not the driving gloves, we used the exact same leather as for our driving gloves.

Water-Resistant

We’re also treating it in a way that makes it a little more water-resistant, and also stain-resistant and therefore it should last you longer and it would work well during rainy weather or when it’s cold outside and there are dirt and moisture. 

These are not rubber gloves and they’re not 100% waterproof, but they are pretty water-resistant. The great thing is this treatment does not impact the softness or the suppleness of the leather at all.

Gray Peccary Men’s Dress Gloves Hydropeccary handsewn with cashmere lining by Fort Belvedere

The beauty of lamb Nappa is that it’s really soft, really stretchy, and really thin so it truly feels like a second skin especially when it’s an unlined glove

Suede Leather

It is a fantastic leather that is very matte, and it really works on both casual outfits or if you want a slightly different look. For example, if you like suede shoes, you probably also like suede gloves.

The general hide or leather skin has typically a smooth side on one side and a sueded side on the other side. We could just turn the leather upside down and show the sueded side on the outside however we decided to also sand this smooth side so there’s going to be a leather with two sueded sides.

Burgundy Unlined Lamb Suede Gloves with Green Contrast Leather Button Gloves – Fort Belvedere

Why do we do that? Well, if you have a smooth side on the inside, you can feel the sweat and you’re much more prone to stick to the glove versus if you have a sueded inside, you don’t have that and you also have a nice sueded outside. So, it’s an extra step that we believe makes for better gloves particularly when you have an unlined pair of gloves.

While it’s very difficult to find a pair of suede gloves, especially for men these days, we offer them in a few different colors because we believe in the classic gentleman’s style. 

Peccary Leather

Undoubtedly, the king of all leathers is peccary leather. It is expensive but if you want the best of the best, it’s definitely worth it. Peccary leather is derived from Pecari Tajacu animal and it’s a part of the Javelinas family and some people say it’s also among the pigs, but it’s a wild animal that is typically found in South America or specifically, Peru.

Peccary gloves might be expensive but it’s definitely the best of the best.

The skins we used for our Fort Belvedere leather gloves are harvested under strict CITES regulations. Because the animals are wild, every skin will have individual scuffs and marks, which are the true hallmark of the genuine product. They’re not a defect.

The individual scuffs and marks on the Fort Belvedere gloves are the hallmarks of a genuine product.

Genuine peccary is defined by its characteristic three-pong pores and the creases which are different from a regular, much-less expensive skin leather for example which are not nearly as soft and as flexible. 

So why exactly is peccary the king of all leathers?

Well, first of all, it’s extremely supple but at the same time, it’s extremely durable. What does that mean? It will likely never rip and while the seams may break, you can resew then and the peccary leather itself should be good for 30, 40, 50, or even more decades to come. I would even go far to say that under normal use case scenarios for leather dress gloves, you cannot destroy peccary leather.

Also, the nice part about it, it will develop a patina and it absorbs certain oils, which is typical for an aniline-dyed leather with an open pore structure which is would all Fort Belvedere gloves are. So, over time as you use them, oils absorbent would get darker, a little shinier but it’s part of the beauty of a natural product.

Peccary gloves are supple and durable; it will surely last for a long time.

Cheaper gloves on the other hand are top coated with color and they would not absorb anything. They will look the same but they will be stiffer and they won’t be as flexible and it’s just not joyful to wear them.

Our HydroPeccary Leather

We didn’t just want to offer regular peccary leather but we want to take a step up and create a water-resistant as well as stain-resistant peccary leather that still has an open pore structure that would give you a patina. And because of that, we developed the first what we call HydroPeccary Leather which was extremely water-resistant and the water would pour straight off.

Fort Belvedere gloves are extremely water-resistant.

Unfortunately, the chemicals used in that process are no longer considered to be environment friendly and because we also want to protect our planet, we decided to switch the formula to leather that is still water-resistant, not as much originally, but it is less harmful to the environment.

The result is super soft and supple peccary leather that is somewhat water-resistant which is perfectly adequate for everyday use. Of course, because there are hand stitches, they would never be waterproof 100% anyway, but we have a relatively high stitch density so for normal wear, these gloves are really nice.

Fort Belvedere gloves are hand-sewn and have a high stitch density.

While this peccary leather is tough, I don’t want you to soak them in water for hours overnight. Even though frankly, I’ve done it once. I lost them in a driveway and I found them three days later completely soaked through the Minnesota winter. I took them back inside, I air dried them and initially, they were quite stiff but once I wore them, they got softer again.

It’s important to remember that if any part of your leather glove gets really wet, ideally, you soak the entire glove even though it sounds counterproductive, and then you air dry it without artificial heat sources such as a hairdryer or a radiator because that heat is just too much versus air drying it slowly will lead to a glove that dries evenly without any water stains.

You can hang your gloves and let them air dry instead of using artificial heat such as a hairdryer or radiator.

If you just have a very small wet spot and you let it dry, you will likely see water stains and that can happen at any type of leather product no matter if it’s a shoe or your glove or your leather jacket. So, make it all wet and let it dry naturally and you’ll have a beautiful product. And don’t be afraid it’s stiff at first but it will soften again. 

Features of Fort Belvedere Gloves

1. Button Closure

Well, it’s traditional button closure which is a feature you typically see in gloves from the 1920s and 1930s and we brought it back because it just looks cleaner and it also keeps your wrist warmer.

Fort Belvedere gloves button closure

Because of that, all our gloves feature those buttons except the driving gloves which have adjustable snap buttons because there, you want the exact fit for comfort when you drive.

2. Stitching Quality

First of all, it’s a very high stitch density and we have all hand sewing and we have hand sewing combined with machine sewing. So, what’s the difference between hand sewn and machine sewn? Well, hand-sewn takes a lot longer and therefore costs a lot more.

It also has a different look because the machine sewn glove is basically sewn inside out so you don’t see any cut edges versus a hand-sewn glove which is sewn in the right way and you can see cut edges. Typically, hand-sewn gloves are a bit more casual than a machine sewn glove which is more formal.

Distinct Hand-Stitched Points

All of our Fort Belvedere dress gloves have points which are these lines at the back of your hand. Traditionally, they’re three because that looks very harmonious. And most of them are machine sewn for other gloves, at Fort Belvedere, we very intricately hand-sewn them and decorate them so they are a little wider and just look better.

3. Contrasting Details

Fort Belvedere gloves offer contrasting details. Typically, the piping, the buttons, and the quirks are held in Fort Belvedere green, sometimes we choose different contrast stitching which is those in red and black for example, or on those blue and brown gloves. In those cases, you may choose slightly different colors so it looks all harmonious but it’s definitely the looks that you get with a regular run of the mill pair of men’s gloves.

Fort Belvedere gloves have beautiful contrast details like this Black and Red Peccary Gloves.

4. Linings

Another reason that Fort Belvedere gloves are special is their lining and the fact that we offer them unlined. Most people pick gloves that are lined because they only wear them when it gets really cold outside and they want to protect their hands.

Grey Gray Peccary Men’s Dress Gloves Hydropeccary handsewn with cashmere lining by Fort Belvedere

For men interested in their style, they don’t just look at the practical functionality of a pair of gloves but also the way they look. And ideally, you want something that literally fits like a glove that’s very tight in your hand, it’s like a second skin and it’s not too bulky. You can only achieve that look by using a thinner lining that is still relatively warm.

Cashmere Lining

Traditionally, for menswear, you can find polyester lining which is an option for cheaper gloves and so we didn’t even consider it for Fort Belvedere ones. You can only go with silk which has the advantage of very thin and smooth but it’s also not very insulating. Wool or wool blends are typically a little rougher but are warm and it’s a natural material. Alpaca is warmer than regular wool because the fibers are hollow and it insulates better because of it but it also wasn’t that soft.

Fort Belvedere gloves with cashmere lining

So, we went with an oatmeal-colored cashmere which is very close to the skin color of some people and it doesn’t leave any fibers when you take out your hand that is contrasting or just off-putting. Also, it is extremely soft so the glove is comfortable and it’s reasonably warm and so all of our gloves are lined in oatmeal-colored cashmere.

Unlined Gloves

Of course, that’s only true for the actual lined ones. Unlined gloves can be really nice if you live in a milder climate or for the transitioning seasons because, without the lining, there’s less bulk so the glove looks more elegant.

So, for example, a driving glove should also be unlined and you can also have unlined peccary gloves or unlined lamb Nappa gloves and unlined suede gloves.

Unlined, soft Peccary Leather in Grey

If you choose to go with the lined glove, bear in mind that the lining, they’ll likely wear out before the leather wears out and it can always be exchanged. Especially for peccary gloves, you can probably exchange the lining 10 times or even more before the glove will have to be replaced.

5. Quirks

Another reason why Fort Belvedere gloves are special is the use of quirks which are the little areas in between the fingers. You’ll typically find those in higher-end or bespoke gloves and not in the regular run of the mill gloves.

Close up of Burgundy Men’s Dress Gloves Quirks

The idea is that you have little triangles between your fingers, which means there’s more material and it increases the range of movement for your finger with less resistance, therefore improving your comfort. Moreover, it’s a great opportunity to add a little contrasting element that people won’t see; it just flashes in certain situations when you move your hands or do something with your fingers and people can tell it’s a special glove but it’s not showy at all, it’s just a little sign of true quality craftsmanship.

6. Wide Range of Colors

The biggest advantage of Fort Belvedere gloves is the range of colors that they come in. Most gloves out there today that you can buy for men are either black, brown, or cognac. That’s pretty much it.  Historically, an elegant man would not have worn a pair of black dress gloves in public during the day because there are so many other great colors that work better with your outfit.

The first that comes to mind is a great color and we have a variety of colors of gray that we offer — darker grays and lighter grays. Then, we also have shades of blue such as petrol blue, for example, or a chamois yellow which is just rich nice yellow that provides a contrast to most of your outfits.

Fort Belvedere gloves are available in a stylish variety of colors.

Personally, one of my favorite glove colors is burgundy because it’s very versatile, it can be paired with your shoes but it still works well with a pair of black shoes or a pair of brown shoes. We also have different shades of green, orange, black with red contrast stitching and contrast leather elements, or brown with blue.

There are also lighter tans, darker browns–there’s something for truly everybody out there and the range of glove colors is not something you will find from other glove makers, typically.

7. Better Sizing Options

On top of the higher quality leather with higher quality craftsmanship, and a larger range of colors, Fort Belvedere gloves come in many different sizes, too! We have everything from 7.5 sizes up to 10 so you get the exact fit that is right for you.

Instead of the generic S-M-L sizing options, Fort Belvedere gloves are available in better sizing options.

Cheaper gloves usually come in small, medium, and large so we really want the best look and fit for you so you can enjoy your gloves and look your best.

What Models Do We Offer?

Peccary Gloves

Basically, we have peccary gloves that are lined and unlined in gray, in chamois yellow, in black and red, and brown and blue.

Unlined Peccary Gloves in Grey & Chamois Yellow by Fort Belvedere

Lamb Nappa Gloves

In lamb Nappa, we have the soft original lamb Nappa in many different colors. We have touchscreen gloves in burgundy, green, blue, and brown with contrasting elements so you have touchscreen capability if you don’t want that, and you want something really soft, you can just get the regular kinds. 

Burgundy Men’s Dress Gloves with Button in Lamb Nappa Leather

Driving Gloves

For driving gloves, we have the touchscreen gloves and regular ones as well and then we have lamb suede gloves in an unlined version which is really nice in the skin and I love it for transitional periods.

Fort Belvedere Driving Racing Gloves in Lamb Nappa Leather with White Buttons Piping and handwoven arrow.

Suede Gloves

You can also get a lined suede glove. Keep in mind, though, that suede by definition is more prone to pick up dirt because it has that roughed-up surface that just is really open in pores and so if you work in dirty environments especially with fluids, maybe suede is not your best trend.

Burgundy Red Suede Unlined Leather Men’s Gloves with Button by Fort Belvedere

Evening Gloves

If you also have evening gloves in white leather which are reserved for Black Tie and White Tie events, because classic men’s evening wear is defined by the colors black and white. White are the gloves that most men would wear and not black. As you can imagine the best option for evening gloves are thin leather, unlined gloves because they give you the most elegant look.

White Unlined Lamb Suede Evening Gloves with Button and Green Contrast Leather Quirks by Fort Belvedere

We decided to do those in our thinnest leather which is the lamb Nappa. We also experimented with suede leather for evening gloves because it has a nice texture and can provide a great look. However, the problem is that it can leave little fuzz on your black garments and while you can brush it out, it’s not something you want to think about when you are in an evening event or a gala.

Of course, we also offer them with button closure and while they are increasingly difficult to find these days, we offer them in a full range of sizes for elegant classic gentlemen who would like to dress up for Black Tie and White Tie events.

Black Tie Accessories by Fort Belvedere

On the other hand, driving gloves, you can find them in places like Amazon, but I promise you the gloves that we offer are different in a sense that they really have soft supple leather that makes you feel that road through your steering wheel and on top of that, we were inspired by the ‘30s and have handwoven pattern arrows on the back. We also have hole perforations in the glove so any sweat that you might produce will dissipate more quickly.

Which Fort Belvedere Gloves Are Right For You? 

Frankly, I don’t know and it depends on the situation and the occasion that you’re in. For example, if you want gloves that you can wear for everyday business wear that you can wear with suits, with casual combinations, and overcoats, I think the first thing to check out is probably the Lamb Nappa range.

Suede Gloves and Driving Gloves

When it’s colder outside, definitely get them lined because that way, they’re just much warmer. If you live in a climate with much milder winters, you can definitely go with unlined versions.

If you wear sport coat combinations or something that’s a bit more casual, I think peccary gloves can also be a great companion, either lined or unlined. Just for everyday normal wear, I think peccary is really nice because it’s a little more casual than the lamb Nappa texture and they’re super soft and just unusual.

Raphael in a green windowpane jacket with a flat cap, red unlined suede gloves, corduroys, and chukka boots

I also like to wear suede gloves, especially unlined ones, because they’re not so shiny and they’re a little bit different, and they just make me feel special. Of course, if you want a little touchscreen functionality, always get those.

If you live in a rainy climate I suggest you get either the lamb Nappa gloves or the peccary gloves because they have that water-resistant treatment. If you live in colder climates, definitely get the lined gloves but bear in mind that these are not gloves made for Arctic exhibitions, they’re dress gloves that are supposed to be warmer so ultimately, the main goal is to have something that looks really, really good, and to keep you warm. It’s not a ski glove.

Evening Overcoat with Homburg Hat, silk scarf, and white gloves for a black tie tuxedo ensemble

Of course, for special events such as evening events, get the unlined gloves from Fort Belvedere, and even if you wear a morning coat or something, just having a pair of gloves can really change the entire look, and it’s something that I like personally. 

What do you look for when buying gloves? Would you pay much higher for better quality? Share your thoughts in the comments section!

Here at the Gentleman’s Gazette, we have a high level of appreciation for things that reignite men’s interest in classic style. While the suit has lost a bit of popularity in recent years as dress codes continue to become more casual, there’s a whole subgroup of men who still love to wear suits! With that in mind: here’s our in-depth review of one of the hottest names in menswear at the moment: Suitsupply.

Today, we’ll talk a bit about the brand’s history, the ordering process, and more.

As a side note, this review is 100% not sponsored. We used our own money to pay the full retail price, and we have no affiliations with Suitsupply.

History of Suitsupply

The company was started in the year 2000 by the then-college student Fokke De Jong who is still the CEO today. The company is also still privately held, and interestingly, they didn’t open their first brick and mortar store until 2007. 

They’ve gained fame for their highly provocative marketing campaigns, which are basically “sex cells.” On the flip side, they’ve also gotten a lot of negative feedback about their sexist portrayal of women in their campaigns. Apart from that, they also had a Start Smoking campaign, which was all about the smoking jacket. 

Fokke De Jong started the company in 2000.

In recent years, Suitsupply has also become a member of the Fair Wear Foundation, which it touts as their responsible and ethical way of doing business. Basically, the FWF works with brands like Suit Supply to basically work on eight labor standards.

According to Wikipedia, getting the Fair Wear Foundation stamp of approval doesn’t guarantee that those standards are actually maintained. It more or less communicates a willingness to implement those into your supply chain. At the same time, in many countries where clothes are manufactured, even those low standards are not always met, and trying to improve them is a good thing. 

That aside, you might be interested in the far more exciting history of the suit.

What Does Suitsupply Offer? Pretty Much Anything

Apart from suits, they have separates such as blazers or sports jackets, trousers, vests, knitwear, accessories, overcoats, and a few other things. Though as the name implies, suiting is at the core of their brand. Now, that being said, Suitsupply’s mantra is: “Don’t fit in, find your own perfect fit.”

The suit range they offer is built on a foundation of a classic suit, but they approached a more modern cut with a shorter jacket, some more Italian or Southern European details, and often bold fabrics. Some also called suits to play garments Euro Slim because they’re in fact cut very slim, they’re short, they have a higher buttoning point and also a higher gorge and mostly no padding or very little in the shoulders.

$400 – 800 Range Tuxedos from Suitsupply

The target market seems to be younger men who want a really slim fitting suit with a modern silhouette, and while you can get your typical navy and gray suits, they really have a broad range of textured and interestingly colored fabrics. CEO Fokke de Jong sometimes says that Suitsupply is for men who want to rescue the uniform culture of suits but still like the look and the feel of a suit.

Suitsupply OTR: Their Original Off-The-Rack Suit

Suitsupply’s off-the-rack suits are starting at $400, but there are only a few options; you’ll find a lot more with $500 and up, and you can go all the way up to a thousand dollars for an off-the-rack suit with a floating canvas in the jacket and more premium fabrics.

Off-the-rack Suitsupply Suits

Suitsupply Custom: The Name Is Misleading

They also offer a euphemistic custom program, which is not custom at all but more like a limited made to order program. It allows for certain selections such as the lining or the buttons and the silhouette and measurements such as the chest, the waist, or the length. The Suitsupply custom program starts at $600, but most suits range between $650 and $700. You can get those suits online, but you have a few more options if you go to the store.

Suitsupply MTM: True Made-To-Measure Only Available In Select Locations

In 2019, Suitsupply offered a made-to-measure program in the US that allows you to select from over a thousand fabrics, and I hope you can get more adjustments, including maybe, having a lower shoulder on the one side than on the other.

Suitsupply began offering a made-to-measure program in 2019.

I would have loved to try out that program, but unfortunately, the closest store where it is available in Chicago, and flying there and incurring the cost of plane tickets and travel would have been quite expensive. Frankly, I would be much better off just getting a local made to measure suit from a brand here in Minneapolis.

Prices for the Suitsupply MTM suits start at $999, but I’m sure the majority of the fabrics cost a little more than that.

What Suitsupply Suits Are We Reviewing?

After looking at the website, we figured it was better to actually go to the store so we could actually try different things on and make sure we get the fit right so we can provide an honest, realistic review. So we went to their latest local store in Edina, Minnesota. When we were there in 2020, they offered five different styles or fits; the Washington, the Sienna, the Napoli, the Lazio, and the Havana.

• Washington is an extra slim fit cut with a more structured shoulder that comes only single-breasted either with a peak lapel or a slightly wider notch lapel as well as ticket pockets.
• The Lazio is also slim, comes with a lightly padded shoulder, and is again, only available as a single-breasted jacket.

The Washington

• The Havana is also slim with a natural unstructured shoulder, and it’s their most popular style. Probably because of that, it’s available in a single-breasted as well as double-breasted. In fact, it is the only double-breasted style they offer.
• The Sienna is a more regular cut jacket, which means there’s a bit more room, it’s single-breasted, but it still has a natural spalla camicia, a type of shirt shoulder structure. To learn more about what this means for jackets, you can check out our Suit Jacket Anatomy guide.
• The Napoli jacket is very similar to the Sienna. But it’s more regular. It’s also single-breasted, but it has a bit more padding in the shoulder, which is a little more traditional or English and not relaxed casual like the Sienna.

Suitsupply Review: Construction and Suit Details

Construction and Workmanship: Decent

At the lower standard off the rack entry-level starting at $400, you get a half-canvas jacket. None of their jackets are fully glued. Full-floating canvas jackets, on the other hand, are available starting at $999 and up.

What’s the difference between half canvas and full canvas, and why one is better than the other? Our guide to suit construction has you covered!

Half Canvas construction on a suit jacket

When I browsed the Suitsupply website, they also had something called the “Jort” collection, and they touted it to have a completely unstructured suit without any type of canvas. Unfortunately, they didn’t have that at the store, but I’d love to see it in person because that’s highly unusual in an off-the-rack suit. You can sometimes find it in Italian bespoke garments, but this is a first for off the rack.

Unfortunately, the “Jort” collection was unavailable both online and in-store at the time of this review.

In the store, I really liked that they provided tags that said if something was half canvas or full canvas so you can compare things on the spot. Online, you can check under features such as half canvas or full canvas.

Overall, I found that the workmanship level on Suitsupply suits is very high for an off the rack garment. All the seams are straight, everything is thought through, and it’s a nicely sewn jacket. Unlike many traditional brands in this price range, Suitsupply suits don’t feel stiff, and the fabrics are nice brand names, and they also feel good.

Country of Origin: Manifold

Suitsupply suits seem to be made in many places. Just when I was at the store, I saw “Made in China” and “Made in Myanmar” labels. It also appeared to me that certain suit styles were made in certain countries or at certain factories, and they had a limited range of fabrics and options; it’s probably because one factory specializes in an unlined suit and the other factory on a lined suit and so forth.

Some of the fabrics available in the Suitsupply showroom.

The fabrics in the showroom came from VBC, Ceruti, E. Thomas, Ferla, Angelico, but they also have stuff from Huddersfield or Colombo.

Suitsupply Jacket & Suit Details: Above Average

In terms of the Suitsupply details, they have this Italian curved chest pocket, which is also called the Barchetta. All their buttonholes are machine sewn, but they’re of a high quality where the hole is cut first and then sewn, so they look neat. Many of their sleeve heads show some puckering, which is a hallmark of a Southern Italian tailoring tradition, and it’s a bit more relaxed and casual in line with the person they want to reach. It’s not a stuffy suit; it’s more of a casual suit.

The double-breasted jackets have an Italian curved chest pocket or Barchetta.

The standard buttons they offer are plastic, but if you go with a custom program, they also have horn buttons or metal options, but they’re limited overall.

Fit of A Suitsupply Suit: Our Biggest Issue

In terms of fit, Suitsupply is across the board very slim even if you get their regular white jackets. So if you’re a slim person or if you like slim fit suits, it’s definitely worth a look. The jackets are all short across sizes, and they often don’t cover your rear. They also have a relatively high buttoning point, which means you typically get a visually longer leg line.

In general, the shoulders are all relatively soft, with a small amount of padding. While you can get unpadded shoulders, even the padded shoulders don’t have much in terms of padding, especially compared to many other suits you can get in the US.

Shoulders are slightly padded and are soft in general. You can also go for the unpadded shoulders.

Want to see what big shoulder pads look like? Check out our rundown of the best navy blazer under $500 here.

I noticed that all their sleeves are cut rather trim, which provides you with a nice looking silhouette when you stand but as soon as I moved, I always felt constricted in the back and in my upper arm, which was not comfortable, and it’s not something I enjoy in a jacket. I didn’t like that their armholes were smaller than many other brands that you can find in the US off-the-rack.

Raphael felt movements on his back and his upper arms felt constricted.

When we are at the store, until the second half of 2020, if you wanted suit pants, you could only get flat front options that did not offer a single pleated pant as a suit. Just recently, they apparently also started offering pleated pants suit options in their custom program.

Suitsupply suits are not just good for slim, shorter, or regular-height guys but also for taller guys. Even off the rack, they offer suits that fit you with very long sleeves and long torsos, of course, in a typical more modern silhouette. But, if you have difficulties finding a suit that fits you without breaking the bank and you’re tall, check out their offerings.

The Process of Getting A Suitsupply Custom Suit

Let’s get Preston to share his experience of getting a Custom suit from the brand: from taking measurements until the suit’s final alterations and fitting.

1. Get Fitted In Store, Not Online

If you decide to go with the custom program, you can buy a suit both online and in-store. While the options for fabrics, linings, and buttons will be the same, whether you order online or in-store, if you go to a store to order and get fitted, they can make alterations to garments factory level, which is nice.

They can make alterations for you if you get fitted in-store.

This means that once you’ve tried on a base model in the store, they can start your order with things like alterations to the sleeve length, the pocket position, the buttoning point, and so on from the beginning.

2. Fabric & Style: Not All Fabrics Can Be Made In All Styles

I generally run quite hot and indeed have a condition called Hyperhidrosis marked by excessive perspiration. So when it came time for me to pick a fabric for my suit, we liked an unlined jacket option that we saw. However, as it turned out, that style was only available in what Suitsupply calls the Traveller range, which features fabrics from Cerruti in high twisted yarns that are very wrinkle resistant.

There are 13 fabrics available in the Traveller range, but of course, it would have been nice if I could even have picked one. However, if I wanted this material in an unlined construction, I would have to have gotten a jacket in the Havana model, which, of course, wouldn’t have worked for me. Going again with the Washington model, I just had to move on and find a different fabric with aligning.

Suitsupply Havana Suit style is slim with a natural unstructured shoulder

As Raphael alluded to earlier, the custom program really isn’t quite so custom after all. Only certain fabrics can correspond to certain styles, and when looking at their website in-store, they offer an iPad, but this is somewhat cumbersome to use. It was difficult for us to figure out what was and wasn’t possible between styles and paired with slow load times. It made for an unenjoyable experience. Even so, once I had selected my fabric and my fit style.

3. Pick A Lining: Choices Are Limited

I had to pick a lining next. They’ve got a limited selection of solid linings as well as digitally printed ones featuring patterns like paisleys or micro-patterns reminiscent of what you might see on a tie.

Suitsupply’s limited selection of solid linings.

Overall, we thought that the selection was somewhat limited, with fewer options than you would find at a high-quality custom tailoring shop. I ultimately went with a dark green micro-patterned lining as I liked how it looked against the navy of the suit.

4. Choose Trouser Details

As far as details on the trousers are concerned, I chose to go with side adjusters rather than belt loops. Side adjuster trousers come with buttons for suspenders in them. If I had gone with belt loops, they could have added buttons for suspenders, but typically, you want a pair of trousers to either accommodate a belt or suspenders and not both.

Side adjusters.

I could also select whether or not I wanted my pants to have a cuff or turn up and how big that cuff could be. The trousers also naturally come with enough of a fabric reserve that if I were to change my mind about how large or small I wanted a cuff to be, this would be an option as well. Ultimately, I decided to go with the more formal silhouette that the jacket was establishing with its large peaked lapels that I would go with a cleaner look featuring no cuffs.

5. Select Buttons

Other than the different styles, the website provided little to no information about the composition and materials of the buttons I could choose for a custom suit. The buttons on the more expensive off-the-rack offerings from Suitsupply are advertised as being made of horn, so we would assume that some of the similar ranges for this program would also be horn. However, many of the buttons we looked at and felt did feel like plastic as well.

Buttons being used on Suitsupply Suits.

6. Add A Waistcoat (Optional)

I also had the option of adding a waistcoat to the suit, but I did have to keep in mind that if I chose one of the single-breasted classic Cape Town or Ferrara models, that the same fabric I chose for my jacket lining would also be used as the back of the waistcoat. This seemed as though it might be a bit loud to me, so while I thought about going for a double-breasted waistcoat, it was cut in an odd way that didn’t really suit my build.

Suitsupply’s selection of waistcoat styles

Ultimately then, I decided just to skip the waistcoat and make it a two-piece suit. Also, given that I do easily overheat, we thought skipping this extra layer would also be best for that reason.

7. Get A Second Pair of Trousers (Optional)

A further option was to order a second pair of trousers in case I was concerned about wearing the trousers out more quickly than the jacket. I don’t anticipate that I’ll be wearing the suit often enough for this to be an issue, though, so I skipped adding a second pair of pants to the order.

Preston opted out of getting a second pair of trousers.

8. Get Measured for Alterations

At first, their list of options looked pretty impressive until we realized that alterations could only be done to certain line items around the suit with a different number associated with them, which makes them much more limited.

One such numbered item that was a point for tailoring on the jacket was referred to as a “collar pleat.” We were unfamiliar with what this might mean, so we asked our sales associate. He also didn’t know, so he thought to ask the in-store tailor. However, she didn’t happen to know either. So, in other words, two menswear historians, a sales associate, and a tailor were all stumped by this term, which was strange, to say the least.

Suitsupply’s in-store tailor.

As to what could be altered, the right and left sleeves can be adjusted individually, and this makes sense because most people do have discrepancies in arm length and shoulder drop. The jacket’s waist can be altered, but the shoulder height can’t. We would imagine that this might be in the system for their full made-to-measure program, but we haven’t had that experience thus far. Apart from that, the length, legs, and waist of the trousers can all be adjusted as well.

Overall though, nothing could really be done about that extreme collar gapping when I moved.

Our Suitsupply Suit Review Experience and Verdict on Their Suits

Raphael’s Review

As you know, Preston and I have a very different physique, and we wanted to see what the suit looked like on each of us. First of all, for me, it was great that we went to the store because if I would have ordered my usual size of 44 regular or maybe a 42 regular online, it would have all been way too tight in Suitsupply.

I weigh about 205 to 210 lbs, which is about 92 to 95 kilograms, and I’m about 184 centimeters tall or six foot one. The size that Suitsupply that fit me the best was a 46 regular, and I’ve never had a 46 regular jacket in my life. Sadly, they only had the Lazio and the Napoli style in my size available in the store, so no Havana and no double-breasted options even though I would have liked to try that on because I like the silhouette.

Raphael and Preston have different physiques.

Both the Lazio and Napoli have slightly padded shoulders, but the Lazio was a bit slimmer. Napoli was regular, had larger armholes, and was wider in the waist. It looked like the Lazio in the 46 regular fits me better than the Napoli and for an off-the-rack jacket, the fit was okay. It wasn’t great, and it wasn’t terrible.

Of course, you cannot compare the fit of a ready-to-wear garment to that of a bespoke suit because humans are all asymmetrical and off the rack garments are symmetrical. Sometimes, I meet people who say, “Oh, I bought this suit off the rack, and it fits perfectly.” If you think like that, chances are that your standards for fit are just too low.

The Lazio

As I mentioned before, because of the slim sleeves, I could always feel some restrictions when I moved. As soon as I moved my arm up or shook someone’s hand, my collar would gap. The sleeve pitch was off of my arms, which resulted in wrinkles on my sleeve, and of course, my right shoulder is quite a bit lower than my left one, so you see corresponding wrinkles in the back of the suit and the side of the jacket.

Overall, I can see why Havana is their most popular jacket. It’s a lot softer than the Lazio and the Napoli, I would have liked to try both the single-breasted and the double-breasted versions, but again, they didn’t have it. Maybe I would have hoped that they would have offered that they could send some garments in for trial, but I don’t know how their whole stocking process works, and it was not offered to me.

I really like the curved belly on their double-breasted jackets, and one hallmark they have for those is that they move the buttonhole rather close to the outside. In my mind, it doesn’t look that great, and it mimics the Italian brand Sciamat, for some reason. I wonder if they got inspired by them.

Suitsupply’s double-breasted suit with a nice belly curve.

Obviously, the jacket is just one part of the suit, so now, let’s look at the trousers or pants. If you’re a regular of the Gentleman’s Gazette, you know I have a big bum and big thighs, and while my waist is about 36 or 37 inches, my thighs are still pretty big. When I tried on the Suitsupply pants, even a 42-inch waist was super tight in my thighs, and of course, they were all flat front.

Initially, I thought, Well, they’re offering two pleated pant styles–the Brentwood and the Braddon–and I could just choose those. But unfortunately, for suits, that wasn’t possible. So I thought that if they don’t have any off-the-rack suits with pleated pants, let’s try the custom program. But again, I wasn’t able to choose a pair of pleated pants in the custom program, which is a very basic request.

So, even if you’re paying up charge to customize your suit, you can only change a few things here or there within their realm of options, which in my case, didn’t even include a well-fitting pair of pants or at least the potential of a well-fitting pair of pants. 

Suitsupply’s pleated pants offerings

I thought, If that’s not an option, can I just buy a pair of pants that’s pleated and a jacket? But again, that seemed impossible. Why? The separate pants are only available in very limited fabric options, which would not have been available for the jackets. So, no, Suitsupply could not provide me with a suit that I could have actually worn, which just blew my mind. If you need roomier pants, Suitsupply is definitely not the brand for you.

Initially, the sales associate tried to talk me into flat-front pants and touted their fit guarantee, but once we tried things on, we both agreed they couldn’t make me even a pair of pants.

Preston’s Review

For a bit of context, I’m a little over 5 feet 10 inches tall and weigh about 125 pounds. Converted into metric, those are about 177 centimeters and 56 kilograms. I’ve got a very different build than Raphael does, and we thought it was important for our readers to know how Suitsupply could or couldn’t fit different physiques.

Preston trying on some suits.

I’m obviously a skinny guy, so unsurprisingly, Suitsupply’s thinnest fit option, the Washington, was the one that fit me the best. All of their other models had far too much excess fabric to even be considered. I have roughly a 28-inch waist and typically wear a size 38 regular jacket. This means that I have a 10-inch drop, which is far more dramatic than average for most men.

While the Suitsupply jacket size that would fit me the best was indeed a 38 regular, I couldn’t have gone with the accompanying suit pants as Suitsupply, like most other retailers, offers only a 6-inch drop. Therefore, I had to go with the custom program as well.

Preston’s jacket measurements.

The base model, Brescia trousers in a 28 regular fit, were pretty good on me. They had to be taken in slightly, but they did fit better than the next step down, which would have been a 26 regular. In particular, the 26s would have looked super slim on my legs even for how thin they are, which wouldn’t have been proportional to how the jacket was fitting.

The jacket’s sleeve pitch was also not perfect, but I’ve accepted this in every jacket that I wear because my arms have a bit of a permanent bend at the elbow due to a physical disability I’ve had since birth. More significant, though, was the fact that there was a sizable amount of collar gap when I moved my arms even slightly. 

All told, the suit cost $669, excluding tax. It was delivered to us about a month after we first ordered. At which point, I tried it on again to see if any further alterations would be necessary at this point. As it was delivered to us, the suit definitely fit better at this stage than it had initially, which we certainly hoped would be the case. The trousers were more or less perfect at this point, but this again was expected as they were already pretty good and just needed minor alterations in the waist and leg length.

The sleeves’ fit on Preston isn’t perfect but is acceptable.

While they’re certainly a bit shorter, skinnier and overall more modern than I’m used to in my trousers, we decided that they couldn’t be any longer. If they were, the narrowness of the leg opening would probably cause unsightly bunching around my ankles where the leg meets my shoe, which wouldn’t be a good look.

So, this shorter length is where they needed to be. And while the center crease falls a bit differently between my two legs, this is more because my knees aren’t quite symmetrical also due to that same physical disability. I decided this was something I wasn’t passionate about changing further.

While the trousers fit well at this stage, the jacket still needed significant work. First and foremost, it was still much too large in the midsection with a good deal of excess fabric.

The trousers fit just well on Preston.

The collar gapping was also still quite significant, and the sleeve pitch was still off, though, on this second point, this isn’t a big deal to me, as I’ve already stated. And now, rather than being much too short as they originally were in-store, the sleeves were actually slightly too long for my liking. So, the jacket needed another round of alterations.

While we had to wait several months before returning to the store to do this due to the COVID-19 pandemic, once we actually got the process underway, the sales associate who took over my order from this point forward was very pleasant and easy to work with. Not that the others weren’t, of course.

We took in the midsection of the jacket even further, zeroed in on the fit of the different sleeve lengths, and made a couple of minor alterations that the sales associate said would help alleviate the collar gap more. However, as Raphael mentioned, this probably wouldn’t be totally possible.

There’s still some excess fabric in the jacket’s midsection.

The turnaround time for this second round of alterations was faster by about a week. I wouldn’t call the result perfect, but it is better. There is still some excess fabric in the midsection, but because my build is so strongly triangular, this probably wouldn’t be alleviated entirely with anything other than a fully bespoke garment.

This is also likely the case for the sleeve pitch, which is why I decided not to make it an issue. I’m satisfied with the sleeve length now, and while the collar gapping has been minimized more, it’s not gone entirely as you probably expected.

Is A Suit from Suitsupply Worth It?

Preston: Speaking personally, I would have to say “not at this time.” As Raphael mentioned, neither of us would have been even remotely satisfied with a true off-the-rack suit ordered sight unseen online as neither of us has body types that fit into Suitsupply’s idealized mold.

Fit – Suitsupply

While I was able to get a finished suit that I would call good or perhaps even very good overall, I don’t think that the almost $700 price tag and the multiple rounds of in-store tailoring are worth it for something that I don’t like that much more than my existing off-the-rack suit options that were already in my wardrobe.

As mentioned, the sales associates that we worked with were all pleasant and as helpful as they could be. Still, overall, this custom OTR program is somewhat frustrating in its experience because of the limited amount of options and combinations that you truly have available. Also, the vagueness of what’s available at different times and around terms like “collar pleat” added to the confusion and frustration in the overall experience.

The custom OTR experience from Suitsupply is still somewhat frustrating because of its limited options.

So, would I shop with Suitsupply again? Well, I might stop in every once in a while just to see how their offerings change over time, and given that the suit trousers did fit me pretty well, I might consider getting a few pairs to wear on their own as odd trousers.

Because of the type of customer and body type that they cater to, and because of the way I shop for and purchase menswear, I don’t think that I’m really their ideal customer. Suitsupply isn’t going to become a regular destination for me anytime soon.

Will I wear the suit that I got? Yes, I think so because it does fit me relatively well. It is lightweight and comfortable, and it provides me with a versatile navy option. But as I stated, it isn’t now automatically my favorite suit just because I went through this more customized process. So, those are my thoughts on whether Suitsupply is worth it, but let’s briefly throw it back to Raphael to get his thoughts as well. 

Pants selection – Suitsupply

Raphael’s Suitsupply Review Verdict

Raphael: So, in conclusion, what did I think? Well, they have their fit guarantee for their custom program, and even when something comes from the factory already adjusted, and it still doesn’t fit you, they’ll alter it in store for free or included.

Obviously, I wasn’t even able to buy a suit. For Preston, we could have just returned it and said, “Hey, we’re not entirely happy with the fit,” and they would have gotten us our money back, but we thought it would have been unethical because we wanted to review the suit and if we had returned it, they could not have sold it to anyone else.

We wanted to film a video to get the full experience, and we did get that, so it was okay in my mind paying for that.

If you as a customer just want to end up with a well-fitting suit, probably you would have returned it, just like how I thought about Preston’s.

Preston’s finished suit.

Considering that a company is called Suitsupply, they focus on suits, and their slogan is, “Don’t just fit in, find your own perfect fit,” it’s a huge disappointment that they couldn’t supply me with a suit. Frankly, if I were them, I’d be embarrassed.

In general, I think it’s nice to have a large network of stores so you can actually see the things in person. Competitive brands in that price range are probably something like Spier & Mackay. Personally, I’d be interested in their made-to-measure program because I’d like to see if they can accommodate all the asymmetries in my body, what the fabric options are and if I can truly choose all the details.

What do you think of this Suitsupply suits review? Would you like us to review Spier & Mackay or other brands, too? Share your thoughts in the comments!