There has always been something very elegant about a man with an umbrella. Many vintage fashion ads from the 1930s showcase the London gentleman with an umbrella hanging off his arm and a pair of exquisite peccary gloves on his hands.

The beautiful canopy that is an umbrella or parasol is designed for practical use but has, since its development, been used to accessorize both the gentleman and ladies’ attire. Today, in much of the world, umbrellas are still used both as a practical tool for protection from the elements, but also as a way to enhance one’s business or formal attire.

Historic painting of parasol in use by an aristocrat

The History of the Canopy

The first thing one must note when discussing umbrellas and parasols is the difference between the two. In recent years, the terms have become somewhat interchangeable, but for traditional manufacturers and distributors, they still remain two separate entities.

The umbrella is a handheld canopy used for protection from the rain, whereas the parasol is intended to be used for protection from the sun. This is an important factor to note as many parasols are not water resistant and cannot be used in inclement weather. They simply aren’t designed for it, despite having a similar appearance to the umbrella. This is why it’s very important for the purchaser to ensure they acquire the right canopy as inadvertently purchasing a parasol could result in being drenched.

For many, parasols are not something that remains a part of their collection. Many will simply use a well-made umbrella for both protection from the rain and from the sun. However, the enthusiast or dandy will, of course, have both in their collection, and often multiples in various styles.

The history of the canopy dates back thousands of years to the Middle East where sculptures at Nineveh have showcased the use of parasols the king whose servant would protect his bald head from the sun with a parasol that identically resembles those used today. The difference, however, was that at the time, the parasol was only permitted to be used by the king and no other was allowed to carry one.

In the book the History of Persia which was published in 1815, the author, Sir John Malcolm mentions the use of the parasol and the frequency in which it appears in various sculptures and works of art. Some of the art which has been dated more than twelve hundred years old, showcases the king in various activities from hunting on his horse to riding in his chariot with an attendant holding the parasol perched over his head.

Despite its use in the Middle East, the canopy has been traced as well to the history of the Terracotta Army in China during 210 BCE where an umbrella is seen affixed to the side of Qin Shihuang’s tomb. The interesting thing is that, if we consider the documented records, these canopies appear to be fixed. The first actual evidence of a collapsible canopy actually dates as far back as 21 AD when Wang Mang had one custom made for his carriage. The umbrella used foldable joints that allowed the canopy to be retracted when not in use. This umbrella in question was found in his tomb in the Korean Peninsula and has since been featured in many works of art.

The Gentleman’s Umbrella

While these umbrellas certainly had a protective capability and were used for this purpose, they also were designed as works of art and accessories the same as we use them today. Many of them featured ornaments, precious jewels and even various types of materials considered to be rare and expensive for the day.

Umbrellas have enjoyed a rich history and have been used daily by the aristocrats of the time, but also for formal use during ceremonies and receptions. What’s interesting to note, is that unlike many other inventions of the past, the canopy really hasn’t changed much since it was first developed thousands of years ago.

Even the Egyptians, who today, are known for their use of ornate riches used the parasol as a fashionable accessory. This is one region that focused on making it their own and many variations of the canopy could be used in various shapes, styles and materials. Often decorated with beautiful feathers or leaves, they are the inspiration behind the canopies used by the Pope in processions. Despite history reserving the canopy for use by gentlemen, it was the women in Egypt who really adopted the parasol as their own. This was the beginning of the use of a canopy as a fashion accessory by women that led to an almost global popularity that reached and remained in much of Europe.

By the fifth century BC, the parasol saw constant appearances in the hands of fashionable women. It was considered a part of their attire and used daily, regardless of weather. With its emerging use in Greece, Rome managed to catch onto the trend, and despite it’s primary use by women, men once again caught onto the trend and began to carry canopies with them.

By the middle ages, umbrellas were a fixture on fashionable men and women throughout all of Europe. What’s almost fascinating however, is that despite umbrellas being capable of fending off rain, they were only used as a fashion accessory and instead, umbrellas would be stored, and cloaks were worn to protect from the rain.

By the 17th century, umbrellas began to adopt a curved handle compared to the previous stick handles. The curvature of the handle was intended to allow a servant to easily hold the umbrella at an angle to shield their employer. Although we primarily use this handle today as a method of hanging the umbrella from the arm, it still maintains its original practicality for doormen style umbrellas used by valets and doormen throughout much of the world. In fact, even in American cities like New York, it’s widely considered inappropriate for a doorman not to be prepared with a large canopy for those entering or exiting the premises.

Almost all full-size umbrellas today utilize a curved handle, whereas the stick handle is primarily reserved for miniature travel umbrellas.

Despite rarely being used, many men and women continue to carry an umbrella with them daily. As a French magazine once reported, we carry the umbrella on our six months of the year to perhaps use it six times. Past and present, the canopy is arguably considered more of a fashion statement than a practical tool for protection. In fact, when we discuss practical use, it’s widely believed amongst experts that umbrellas are used for practicality more for protection from attackers or as a weapon than they are for rain and shine. The umbrella has long been a tool utilized by various spy agencies around the world as a concealed weapon and today, there are manufacturers that produce umbrellas for the general public that double as firearms and stun guns capable of emitting an electrical shock to a potential attacker.

In fact, in the United States alone, the US Patent Office has to employ four employees just for the filing of umbrella patents as they continue to be redeveloped constantly by many different companies. Umbrellas have become such commonplace that we even have a National Umbrella Day which falls on February 10th of each year. Despite being called a “national” day, it’s actually celebrated around the world due to the canopy’s global popularity.

Types of Umbrellas

There are a number of styles that umbrellas come in, the most common being what we refer to as the classic umbrella.

Various styles of umbrellas

Classic Umbrella

Without question, this is the most common umbrella used today. It’s a retractable umbrella that can be made from a variety of materials such as metal, wood or even plastic. For umbrellas they typically utilize a water resistant microfiber material for the canopy, whereas parasols utilize various materials that traditionally do not provide any protection from the rain. The classic umbrella is usually made in two versions, manual and automatic which allows the user to open and close it using one hand. In most cases, the classic umbrella will feature a long shaft with a curved handle.

Travel umbrella with curved handle

Travel or Miniature Umbrella

This is probably the second most common style found today and consists of a smaller automatic umbrella with a shorter shaft and a straight handle. They are often used by those traveling but equally by people on daily excursions who would rather store the umbrella in their bag or car rather than carrying it with them. In fact, some of these umbrellas feature extending shafts which allow them to remain so small they can easily fit in a jacket pocket. When purchasing one of these umbrellas, one should note that in most cases they aren’t as durable or well made as the traditional umbrella. Therefore, it’s often worth it to either invest in a well made umbrella or continue to replace them by acquiring inexpensive umbrellas that can be found for just a few dollars. These umbrellas are traditionally not intended for extended use during heavy rain, but moreso for light showers or short walks from your car to shelter.

Doorman with an Umbrella

Doorman Umbrella

This is typically a larger umbrella similar to a golf umbrella used by doormen or attendants around much of the world. They are designed to provide protection to more than one individual and are usually well constructed. They almost always feature a curved handle to allow the doorman to hold the umbrella at an angle making it easier to cover the head of another person. These umbrellas provide sublime protection and are engineered for their commercial purpose which ensures solid construction. Of course, that usually means a higher price tag as well.

Rolls Royce Car Umbrella

Car Umbrella

In recent years, luxury motorcar companies like Rolls Royce began including umbrellas with their vehicles. Often branded, many of the car companies will simply place the umbrella in the vehicles trunk or hatch, however, Rolls Royce and a few other manufacturers designed pop-out umbrellas that slide into a special compartment built into the car door. Of course, many other companies have began offering branded umbrellas to customers and often they are used as a marketing tool in the same way patio parasols at restaurants and bars will often feature the logo of a brewery or vendor.

Golf Umbrella

Similar to the doorman’s umbrella, the golf umbrella is large umbrella, typically around 70 inches across. They are designed to fit snugly into the golf bag and can be used during a sudden shower to protect multiple golfers. In recent years, many companies have began to sell branded golf umbrellas, some of which even come with the bag. However, if you’re looking for a well-crafted golf umbrella it’s always wise to purchase an after-market canopy from a company that specializes in making them. In most cases, the branded umbrellas are made from inferior materials in large factories overseas where quantity is prized over quality.

Queen Elizabeth II with a bubble umbrella

Bubble Umbrella

Often transparent, these tall, spherical umbrellas are very popular throughout much of the world. They are ideal for high wind situations and protection from storms as opposed to light rain. They are often reinforced using stronger materials than their counterparts and can even be used during tropical storms. In addition, due to the increased visibility of the clear canopy, they are often used by newscasters reporting on television from location. Most meteorologists use these umbrellas while reporting on storms and while some companies have designed them as accessories, they are predominantly used solely for their protective capabilities.

Leonardo DiCaprio using an umbrella at a red carpet event

Fashion Umbrella

For the most part, these umbrellas provide little protection, but are designed for use on the runway or by those who are simply looking for a fashionable accessory. They are usually quite decorative and rarely seen in use on the street, but more-so in fashion ads.

Modern Parasol Patio Umbrella

Parasol

Today, most parasols are designed for use as patio umbrellas and are too large for anyone to carry. However, there are still a small selection of companies that produce handheld parasols designed for protection from the sun. Rarely seen, these are usually only used in high-heat environments or by fashionable dandies on a sunny day. They are also quite popular in some parts of Asia. One big benefit is that they typically offer protection from the UV rays which, as we all know, is responsible for many forms of cancer and other dangerous diseases.

Noteworthy Brands

Today, umbrellas are items you can find for just a few dollars or a few thousand dollars. Most of the quality umbrellas cost at least $50 and go upwards of a few hundred. Typically, these are the ones I would personally recommend as you will notice a significant difference in quality. From a personal standpoint, I can tell you that I own a few umbrellas that are higher priced, whereas my wife and I purchase inexpensive ones for our children from stores like Walmart or Target. Each of my umbrellas are still in mint condition after significant use, whereas we typically have to replace the inexpensive umbrellas each season. While mine can withstand some wind and stronger rain, the inexpensive ones we own will break easily after a single use during anything more than a light shower. Of course, the reason behind purchasing cheap umbrellas is that our kids are unlikely to care for them the same way we would and are prone to losing things or damaging them.

Here are a few umbrella manufacturers that are worth your attention. Keep in mind, these are not the umbrellas you’ll find at Walmart.

Francesco Maglia the King of Umbrellas

Francisco Maglia

One of the most renowned umbrella makers in the world, this is one of the few designers that still makes their umbrellas by hand. Click here to read our in-depth review of them.

Beautiful Maglia Umbrella Handle

Talarico

For over 60 years Mario Talarico has been making high-end men’s umbrellas in his small workshop at Vico Due Porte in Naples. It is one of those very few bespoke umbrella makers that offers an incredible range of materials and varieties. For example, you can choose from rosewood, elm, apple tree, ash, chestnut, with and without bark, broom, cherry, wild cherry, ebony, hazelnut, sugar cane, bamboo, malacca cane, lemon, dogwood, walnut, beech, hickory, cedar, and oak. The output is only about 3 per day or 1100 a year and prices can range from 200 EUR for an entry-level model, which is already of much higher quality than other umbrellas at that price point, to staggering $8,000 for a version with black tortoise shell handle. Up until ten years ago, Talarico was only known to insiders but one day a chap from the Parisian Le Monde seeked for shelter from the rain, and once he saw the quality, he sent a team of journalists to him, which was his first big story. Thereafter, the internet certainly helped to put Talarico on the map of gentlemen of taste and style and today, you can find his umbrellas all across the globe now including places like Alan Flusser.

Fox Umbrellas

Handmade in England since 1868, Fox Umbrellas are quintessentially British and who wouldn’t want a piece of rain great from one of the most rain-experience countries in the world? While Fox Umbrellas are more subdued than their Italian counterparts but they still offer a range of options for the classic gentleman, including handle choices and one piece umbrellas.

Lockwood Umbrellas

Founded by two young umbrella makers in 2014 in London , this bespoke operation seemed promising at first, but after extensive communication,or the lack thereof, a non-functioning website and broken promises, I have given up on them. Even if you offer the best product in the world, poor customer service will always bring you down, and based on my experience, it’s just a matter of time if they continue to conduct their business the way they do right now.

James Smith & Sons

Founded in 1830, James Smith has a beautiful umbrella store in London and you should definitely stop by when you are in town. The umbrellas are certainly not inexpensive but the experience are certainly unique.

Alexander McQueen

Designed by Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen umbrellas are known for their price tag and dramatic appearances. For the modern man, they offer an umbrella with a very contemporary, yet minimalistic flair. If you fancy the design and don’t mind that you can find better quality elsewhere, Alexander McQueen is a good option.

Swaine Adeney Brigg

Known as the gentleman’s umbrella, Brigg umbrellas are about as classic London as you can get. Click here to watch a video.

London Undercover

When London designer Jamie Milestone got frustrated with monochrome umbrellas that barely resisted bad weather, he set out to design a classically-inspired, yet fashionably designed umbrella that could withstand the inclement weather London is so well known for. Despite the umbrellas made using the most traditional methods, the designs are really unique. From map prints and camo to various intricate designs, these are umbrellas for the modern gent with a special sense of style.

Brooks Brothers

The first, well constructed umbrella I ever bought was from Brooks Brothers. Quite inexpensive in comparison to many of their competitors, they are the perfect umbrella for the east coast prep. They offer a variety of styles, all of which are priced around $60. I’ve had mine for about four years and it’s still in perfect condition despite it’s regular use. In fact, this is the umbrella that I keep in my car.

Pasotti – Not Recommended

Pasotti is an Italian designer that manufacturers unusual and often gaudy, overpriced umbrellas. Although unique it is not something we would recommend buying but since they are so unique we had to mention it, and after all it’s always good to know what not to buy. Prices from around $200 upwards of $500, and definitely not worth it.

Pelcor – Not Recommended

Another brand to stay away from under any circumstances is Pelcor. They sent me one of their “luxury” cork umbrellas that retails upwards of $150. After just two light showers and hanging in my back entrance, the Pelcor looks worse than any other umbrella I have had for years. If you don’t mind a meretricious umbrella that’s grossly over-priced and feverishly inadequate then by all means buy a Pelcor cork umbrella. But if you ask my opinion; don’t expect anything more in terms of workmanship than you do from an umbrella from the dollar store.

Conclusion

Umbrellas are absolutely one of the most elegant and traditional accessories used by both men and women. Regardless of their intended use, they also offer a practical approach when one needs a leaning post, a walking stick over rough ground or a weapon to fend off potential attackers. They are multi-use and vary in both design and craftsmanship. If you don’t own a well made umbrella, this is one accessory you may want to consider investing in. I promise you won’t regret it. What’s your favorite kind of umbrella and who is your favorite designer?

The Kelvin Knot is one of the lesser known tie knots around, yet it’s a nice variation of the Oriental Knot. In today’s video, I show you How To Tie a Kelvin Tie Knot the easy way, with step-by-step instructions so your tie knot looks crisp every time. 
The Kelvin Knot is slightly asymmetrical and not too big, thus working nicely with all ties including knit ties. All men can wear it, but it’s great for those with smaller heads. If you are interested in quality ties, take a look here.

If you are interested in a similar, slightly smaller knot, check out our video on the Oriental Knot.
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Transcript:

Welcome back on our series on how to tie tie knots! Today, I’m going to show you to tie the Kelvin knot.

Basically, the Kelvin knot is just like the oriental when you loop the long end once around more. That creates a bigger knot for more volume and a slightly different look in terms of size. Here, I’m wearing a navy blue jacquard tie from Fort Belvedere and it’s rather substantial, it’s heavy Italian silk and so the knot gets even bigger than with a thinner tie. Normally, it can still work with collar pins, in case you choose a thick tie like this one, I would recommend you use an oriental knot or a four in hand knot just to keep the knot smaller.

The Kelvin Knot is like the Oriental and you want the sewn side up. To start, you have the slim end is gonna be much shorter about one and a half hands above your waistband . So slim end, like so and now you loop it around half and then you tighten, you pinch it with your fingers and now you go around once more, so one more loop and now you take the wide end, you come through from the back here, pull it tight and get it through the knot. Here, you just want to go through the last layer, not both layers. Just the last layer you create with your knot, you hold it, place gently and pull through like so. Now you want your little dimple in there, pinch and just pull. Once you’re ready, you pull on the short end slightly, adjust it until you like the look. Voila! The Kelvin knot. With a thick tie like this one, I prefer kind of a medium spread to cutaway collar, you can see here it kind of accentuates the shoulders in a way and it’s wide enough to accommodate a bigger knot like that. Use a thinner tie, probably a medium spread is ideal but I would not recommend wearing really strong cutaways and classic collars may work if it’s thinner. If it’s a little bit thicker, you may run into troubles but just test it and see what works best for you. Basically, you want to expose a knot and not cover it up by your collar.

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Traditionally, shorts have never held a prominent place among gentlemen in public, aside from wearing them to the beach or the tennis court.
Shorts simply weren’t an appropriate form of dress for the dapper chap. However, much of this has changed in the last few decades and much of the first world is aligning themselves with prep culture that has reintroduced summer shorts, not just in casual wear, but even pairing them with an appropriate button-down shirt for the office in the hot summer months. Despite its many critics like fashion designer Tom Ford who believes there is never an appropriate time for men to publicly wear shorts, the fact is that the idea of wearing shorts in the summer months has not only seeped its way into mainstream fashion, but many dandies and preps are adopting this trend outside the tennis court and off the beach.

Shorts with Sport Coats and Over the Calf Socks

History of Shorts

Surprisingly, or maybe not so, shorts were introduced by way of the tunic and toga that essentially paved the way for what we, today, consider the modern shorts. Initially, it was fashion-forward European men that wore what were, at the time, called ‘knee breeches’ before they were introduced into sports apparel by Americans roughly a thousand years later.

Originally developed for use by the military in the later part of the 14th century, they were used as a way to keep heavily packed and armed soldiers cooler while serving in tropical climates. The trend almost immediately caught on, and soon many civilians were beginning to sport these so-called knee trousers as casual wear.

Somewhere along the line, it was universally adopted that shorts should strictly be reserved for use by boys and not grown men. By the 1800s this was an undocumented rule strictly enforced and boys throughout Europe and North America wore shorts commonly referred to as ‘knickerbockers’ until they hit puberty at which point they would often receive their first pair of actual trousers as a gift. Since this became a staple of reaching pubescence, men began to shy away from wearing shorts to avoid appearing boyish and immature. Since then, many prep schools and urban public schools began to adopt knee pants as a standard uniform for their students, a tradition that still continues today throughout much of the world.

Boy Scouts in shorts

However, as the 1900s rolled around, many companies, specifically in America, began marketing a shorter version of the knee pants as athletic wear. Shorts became a staple for both men and women while engaging in many outdoor activities and sports and so the casual formality of the knee pants fizzled as men and boys began to adopt the shorts for strict use as athletic wear.

Up until the 1930’s Tennis player wore white flannel pants until Henry “Bunny” Austin decided  to wear white shorts in a tennis match, and today people across the world wear shorts for all kinds of sports and exercises.

Despite the hard and fast sartorial rules of shorts, the routine of wearing them has flourished into the casual and even office environments of modern American and Europe. Paired with a button down shirt or even a smart polo shirt, wearing shorts has become a globally accepted form of casual dress that, at certain times, can even be appropriate for work in very specific office environments.

Vintage ad showcasing cotton twill shorts for the Army

Shorts Etiquette DOs & DON’Ts

Although many men would describe shorts as comfortable, they are not the number one choice for gentlemen in most situations, yet for sports on a beach vacation, or under tropical conditions, they are a god-sent. To ensure you don’t embarrass yourself by wearing shorts, make sure to keep our DO’s & DON’ts in mind.

The standard office outfit on the Bermudas with shorts, jacket and over the calf socks

Types of Shorts

It seems like the styles of shorts on the market today are endless, and designers are always coming up with new ideas to present. Here’s an in-depth look at the most popular styles worn today and some style advice on how, when and when not to wear them.

Tennis Shorts

Designed for wear during tennis matches, these shorts are usually above the knee, in white with pleats allowing maximum freedom for movement. Today, synthetic materials are the way to go.

Underarmour shorts for athletes have moisture wicking fabric

Running Shorts

Back in the 1970s these were short, yet somewhat loose fitting. Men like Tom Selleck were famous for these shorts, and he was often seen in them in such movies as Three Men and a Baby and his hit television show Magnum PI. Today, running shorts are generally longer, and they are made of flexible, lightweight materials that allow you to run effortlessly even without the dated look of seventies running shorts. As the name implies, these shorts are for running and maybe other sports activities but not for anything else.

Distinguish your personality with Camouflage shorts for Men

Cargo Shorts

Very popular with casually dressed men and boys, cargo shorts are khaki shorts that have more than four pockets, often with flapped pockets on the sides of the leg.

Although practical for camping and wilderness activities where you require various tools such as a compass, pocket knife, etc. No gentleman should ever wear them outside of that setting because they simply look hideous.

Pleated Shorts

Traditionally, shorts were tailored in the same way as regular trousers and so they often had one of two pleated and depending on the fashion of the day a wider or narrower cut. Today, pleated shorts look distinctly vintage, and flat front shorts dominate the market.

Fantastic seersucker whaler shorts

Flat Front Shorts

A formal version of the casual shorts, they are often paired with a polo shirt and worn to outdoor events such as river boat tours, block parties, and informal daytime barbecues during very hot summers.

Denim Shorts

Generally baggier and longer than the short-shorts and daisy dukes worn by women, they were very popular throughout the 1970s and into the 1990s. Unless you are invited to a theme party, you should never wear these shorts.

Swimming Trunks

We discussed swimming trunks in detail in our Men’s Swimwear, so please take a look here.

Bermuda shorts on the runway

Bermuda Shorts

These knee-length shorts were of course created in Bermuda and are often worn in more formal situations such as at the office with a sport coat, over the calf socks, a tie, and even a blazer or light sweater. Since their development, they’ve become quite popular in other parts of the world as well, though generally you should not wear shorts to the office unless you are in a tropical environment where it is acceptable to wear these shorts. Outside of the Bermuda and other Tropical islands you should avoid it and go with seersucker or linen slacks instead.

Board shorts on men should only be used at the beach

Board Shorts

Originally designed as swimwear, board shorts are today worn as regular shorts as well, predominantly by young boys and very casually dressed men. They are the standard ’surf’ apparel and often feature bold prints and patterns on these below-the-knee, baggy shorts. Usually designed with a drawstring in lieu of belt loops, they are good for surfing and acceptable for beach wear but not anything else.

Chino Shorts

Simply a shortened version of the classic twill chinos or khaki pants, they were initially designed for use by the U.S. military while serving abroad in the Philippines. If you vacation in the Philippines or if you live in a similar climate chino shorts are a good option for casual wear, otherwise stick to long chinos.

Cycling shorts for men

Cycling Shorts

Designed to reduce chafing while riding a bicycle, these are form fitting, long spandex shorts with an insert in the area that touches the saddle. Although not necessary for casual bike rides, you definitely want them for longer tours. Apart from that, do not wear them for anything else.

Leather Shorts

Around the world, many believe that Lederhosen are a standard style of shorts in Germany, but that could not be further from the truth.

It is only worn in Munich and parts of Bavaria during the Oktoberfest in Munich. Otherwise, you will not find any self-respecting German man wear these leather shorts at any other time.

Beautiful summer madras shorts

Plaid Shorts

Generally made of Madras, they are patterned woven shorts that have become staples in the prep community.

Shorts with Turn-Ups / Cuffs

Dressier shorts will sometimes come with turn-ups or cuffs which can be a nice little detail when wearing shorts.

What Shorts Should You Buy?

This is not an easy question and it depends on your needs but normally, a few pair of athletic shorts are important, just like swim trunks and a pair of Chino shorts. That way you are covered. If you spend a lot of time at the beach, the pool etc. you should have a little short rotation in different colors, solids, stripes and checks. Seersucker or Madras are also ideal fabrics for casual shorts.

As far as details go you can also opt for ticket pockets flaps and the same details you would find on a tailored pair of dress pants.

When buying a pair of short, you may feel like it is much less than a pair of pants, and therefore it should cost less. However in terms of labor it requires pretty much the same amount of work and most shorts are made of very inexpensive fabrics, which is why a good pair of shorts will usually cost just slightly less than a good pair of pants.

Shorts Length

For an elegant, classy look you definitely want short that end above the knee. Currently, slim fitting shorts that end 3 inches or more above the knee are popular but that doesn’t mean you have to wear them like that as well. If you have bigger thighs, it will look more flattering if the shorts are just above the knees, but it also depends on the length of your legs – you always want to look proportional. A short man with long shorts and a tall man with short shorts will look ridiculous because the proportions are off.

Personally, I have never seen anyone who looked great with shorts that extended beyond the knees, so definitely avoid long shorts.

Shorts Materials

In terms of materials, cotton is certainly a classic favorite while wool and cashmere are hardly ever used. Lately, silk, linen or blends thereof have also become quite popular. Before settling on a pair of linen shorts, you should put them on and make some sit-ups, then look at the way it wrinkles because sometimes shorts can look horrible in the front because the wrinkles are exaggerated without the added fabric weight found in regular pants. I once bought a pair of silk linen shorts in a light blue silk-linen blend and a pair of slacks from the same fabric. The wrinkles on the shorts were much more extreme, and I ended up not wearing them often because of it.

Cotton is a popular material for shorts an rightly so. No matter if you opt for cotton seersucker or khaki twill, chinos, chambray or Madras it will work well for shorts.

Polyester Blend are not recommended unless you want to exercise, run, bike…

Shorts Colors

Shorts are made for warm weather, therefore, avoid black, charcoal, and most other dark colors. Navy may work but don’t be afraid to go for lighter blues, reds (including nantcket red), whites, off-whites, beige, khaki, yellow, green, or even pink. This is a warm weather garment, and your choice of color should reflect that.

Shorts Brands

Basically, every man’s clothing brand under the sun offers some kind of shorts. Ralph Lauren has a great selection of shorts, and often they use vintage patterns from military shorts, paired with interesting fabrics and colors that are well suited for your look. As always, try to stay away from visible logos like Polo ponies. The Polo Ralph Lauren Prospect Shorts model has been around for years and it is a great timeless start but they also have pleated models as and they often pay attention to details such as ticket pockets, mother of pearl buttons, etc.

If you are looking for short, slim fitting shorts Topman or Club Monaco might be the right brand for you.

In case you prefer a preppy look, L.L. Bean, Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers are the more well know brands but you can also find numerous others such as Castaway, Just Madras, Blankenship Dry Goods or Southern Tide.

As always, go for quality and don’t just look for a brand.

Conclusion

We hope you’ve enjoyed this quick primer on summer shorts. We believe there is a place for them especially at the beach, BBQs, outdoor events, the Caribbean or in similar climate zones, when you exercise… and it’s just important you know how to wear them.

Do you wear shorts? If so, where and what styles? What are your favorite brands? Please share in the comments below.

This guide was written by Sven Raphael Schneider & J.A. Shapira.

The Pratt Knot, which is also known as Shelby Knot, is similar in size to a Half-Windsor, yet it is slightly asymmetrical thus providing a more unique look. Depending on your tie, you may see a horizontal fold on top of the knot, which should be avoided.  If you see that in your tie, simply choose a different knot. Otherwise, the Pratt or Shelby Knot is a great addition to every man’s tie knot portfolio.

In today’s video, I will show you how to tie the knot as well as discuss its history and what shirt collars you should wear with it.

Transcript:

Welcome back to our series on how to tie a tie. Today I’m going to show you how to tie the Pratt knot which is also known as the Shelby knot.

The knot was first worn in the US during World War II and then an American named Jerry Pratt started wearing it exclusively in the late 50s, never really became popular until a man showed the knot in 1986 to the local news anchor Don Shelby. Three years afterwards, in 1989, Europe times picked up on it and the daily telegraph in England renamed it the Shelby knot being one of the first knots that was named after a person in a long time.

I’m wearing right now a Mohair wool blend tie from Fort Belvedere and you can see it’s a rather small knot but here is how you tie it. First, you start out with the tie seam side up and you want the slimmer end on your right hand and the wider end on your left hand. The length of the slimmer end is about one and a half hand width above your waistband. Okay, slim end goes over the wide end.

Now you take the bottom part, the wide end goes up, you always stay on the right and through a hole pulling it down. Now you get this little knot here and you want this to be tight. The next step is you take the wide end, bring it to your left like so, tighten it up a little bit and now from the back, you bring the wide end up, pull it up like so. Now the wide end goes through the knot and now you just pull it through, adjust it and pull it up.

You can see it forms a dimple automatically because you have that knot just on one side. Pull at the slim end, bring it up and adjust your knot. Voila! The Pratt AKA Shelby knot. The Pratt knot uses slightly less fabric than half Windsor or Windsor knot yet it gives you an interesting shape. It’s a little more symmetrical, you get the dimple automatically and you use a thick tie like this one here from Fort Belvedere, it automatically creates a big knot as you can see. This kind of a big knot only works with cutaway collars or really wide spread collars.

Don’t try wearing this with a classic collar because the collar ends will overlap with your knot here which does not look very nice. You definitely do not want to wear this kind of tie with a collar pin or collar bar, much rather go for an oriental or four in hand knot because this is simply too big.

If you like the look of this tie, you should definitely check out our shop where we carry all kinds of Fort Belvedere ties in unusual fabrics that stand out from the crowd.

Thank you and stay tuned for more how to tie your tie videos in the near future.

Renowned French businessman and actor, Alain Delon was born in Sceaux, Seine, Île-de-France on November 8th, 1935. By the age of four, both his parents had divorced and remarried giving Delon a half-sister and two half-brothers. Growing up in a suburb of Paris, Delon attended numerous boarding schools for most of his early years, having to switch as he was expelled from one and then another due to his inappropriate behavior. By the age of fourteen, he had enough and quit school to work in his stepfather’s butcher shop. By the time he turned 17, he enlisted in the French Navy and served as a fusilier marin during the First Indochina War. His unruly past from boarding school continued to haunt him, and he spent just shy of an entire year in prison for being what the Navy called “undisciplined”. In 1956, he was dishonorably discharged from the Navy and returned to France. Over the course of the next few years, he took many odd jobs working as a waiter, a porter and even in sales and as a secretary.

Delon in Burberry Trench Coat

An Entrance to Stardom

It was during his time working odd jobs that he met actress Brigitte Auber and accompanied her to the famous Cannes Film Festival where he was seen by a talent scout for David Selznick who offered him his first contract on the condition he learned how to speak fluent English. Delon agreed and returned to Paris with the intention of learning how to speak the language. However, upon his arrival he met Yves Allégret, a French director who convinced him that he could become just as famous if he stayed in France. Surprisingly, Selznick agreed to allow Delon to cancel his contract, and Allégret gave him a role in ‘Quand la femme s’en mêle’. His performance was a success, and he was offered a second role in the movie ‘Women are Weak’ which introduced his face to American moviegoers.

It was an instant hit, and he almost immediately shot to fame. By the age of 23, he was being compared to French legends such as Jean Marais and American star James Dean.

In 1958, Delon starred in the film Christine where he met Romy Schneider and subsequently fell in love with her getting engaged in March of 1959.

1970. Jean-Paul Belmondo and Alain Delon in Borsalino

As the 1960s rolled in, Delon made two more hit films when he appeared in ‘Purple Noon’ based on The Talented Mr. Ripley followed by ‘Rocco and His Brothers’. Both roles earn him positive reviews by some very discerning film critics. Delon took this opportunity to enter the live stage and played alongside his partner Romy Schneider in the play ’Tis Pity She’s a Whore’ which broke box office records in Paris.

During the engagement with Schneider, Delon had an affair with a German model, singer and actress named Nico, which resulted in a pregnancy. In August 1962, Nico gave birth to Delon’s son Christian who handed responsibility over to his parents to care for the child.

Relxaed Delon with a cardigan

Finding the affair too difficult to try and get past, Schneider broke off the engagement by the end of 1963. Just a few months later, Delon married Nathalie Barthélemy and one month later had a son with her named Anthony.

Delon had by this time officially become France’s hottest ticket, and Delon was considered for the lead role in ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ but lost out to Peter O’Toole. However, because he was so closely considered for the role, Seven Arts offered him a four-picture contract that included ‘The King of Paris’ and ‘Marco Polo’. Despite promises, neither film ended up going to production so Delon took another French role in ‘Any Number Can Play’ followed by yet another Visconti film in ‘Il Gattopardo’.

Alain – Le Samourai

By this time, Delon had developed an interest in becoming a producer and negotiated to be paid in distribution rights over a salary for ‘Any Number Can Play’. With the success of the film, Delon opened Delbeau Productions and produced his first film called ‘L’insoumis’.

Delon had made such a name for himself that all of the Hollywood studios were talking about the attractive, well-dressed French actor taking America by storm. Delon heard rumors of this and sought out the big picture players in California looking for roles. Since ‘Any Number Can Play’ was distributed by MGM in the United States, Delon opted to sign on with them for a five-picture contract. Starring alongside Jane Fonda, Delon shot his first MGM film ‘Joy House’ in his native country. With the success of it, he immediately began filming for ‘The Yellow Rolls Royce’ and ‘Once a Thief’. Delon then decided he needed more money and signed another deal with Columbia for three films. With studio execs realizing his appeal in action, he was cast in ‘Lost Command’. Universal saw this and rented him for a Western they were making with Dean Martin called ‘Texas Across the River’. He was then requested by Seven Arts who wanted to use him in ‘This Property is Condemned’ and ‘The Night of the Iguana’. Despite not taking either role, he found a better opportunity in ‘Is Paris Burning’ with Seven Arts which became a huge sensation in France but flopped terribly in the United States. This seemed to be par for the course with most of his Hollywood financed films seeing a domestic flop but doing well at the French box office and overseas. In many countries, including Japan, Delon was at the top of the ranks as one of the third most coveted actors sharing the space with Sean Connery and Steve McQueen. Despite the studios in Hollywood having faith in his skill and stardom, somehow he was never able to make it on US soil as a top-billed performer. As almost all six of his Hollywood films went bust in the US, Delon returned to France to make ’The Last Adventure’ and ‘Le Samourai’ which was an instant hit.

Note the belly of the lapel

By 1967, the relationship with Nathalie was ending but the couple opted to continue to live together. Delon decided he needed to go back into production in order to make money and incorporated a new company called Adel where he produced and starred in its first film, ‘Jeff’ where he met another actress from France named Mireille Darc who he began dating despite still living and being married to his wife.

‘Jeff’ was another great success and he followed it up with another film called ‘Borsalino’ which is still, to this day, considered on of the highest grossing films of all time in France.

Alain Delon in Borsalino & Co 1974

Then, late in 1968, in a village on the outskirts of Paris, the body of a man named Stevan Markovic was found in the dump by police. At the time of his disappearance, Markovic was the personal bodyguard to Delon and during the investigation, Delon and a gangster named Francois Marcantoni became the prime suspects in his murder. Police suspected Delon thanks to a letter Markovic sent to his brother which said “If I get killed, it’s 100% fault of Alain Delon and his godfather Francois Marcantoni.” The investigation widened rapidly and even began to place the French Prime Minister Georges Pompidou in the crosshairs of law enforcement. Rumors swirled and many suspected that Delon and Pompidou were involved in a group sex ring focused on the deflation of Pompidou’s wife. Pompidou took to the press and immediately accused two antagonists of using the French spy agency SDECE to set him up. During the investigation he became the President of the Republic and aimed at reformed the SDECE where a secret agent was fired for what he claimed was this set up.

1970. Jean-Paul Belmondo and Alain Delon in Borsalino

With the allegations behind him and his confidence built back up, Delon decided to take a second try in the United States and made ‘Red Sun’ which subsequently flopped in the US box office but soared in France. Delon realized that his career as an actor could potential be short-lived, especially since he seemed incapable of succeeding consistently in the US box office. He took a large portion of his income and reinvested it into a range of businesses involved in everything from horse racing, boxing, aviation and manufacturing. Continuing to act and fulfill his passion, he starred in the film 1975 French film ‘Zorro’ and a year later, in ‘Monsieur Klein, for which he won a César award for his performance. Delon continued to be successful at the box offices throughout much of Europe, especially in Russia.

His fame across France ended up generating a reputation as a fairly egotistical actor who thought of himself, and often referred to himself, as a superstar. During an interview, he once stated “The simple truth is that I am an enormous star all over the world. I like that because it enables me to live well.”

Delon with Shawl Collar

Still wanting to make it in America, Delon hired Hollywood agent Sue Mengers who got him a leading role in ‘The Concodre… Airport ’79’ which also flopped in America. Despite his inability to succeed state-side, every other film he did in France was an enormous success earning him yet another César award for best actor for his performance in ‘Notre Histoire’. By 1982 his relationship with Darc was over after fifteen years together.

As the late 1980s rolled in, Delon started another relationship after meeting a Dutch model named Rosalie van Breemen on the set of a music video for his song ‘Comme au Cinema’. Although he had this new love, Delon’s luck seemed to fade, even in his homeland. Throughout the next decade almost every film he made was a catastrophic failure with the sole exception of ‘Nouvelle Vague’. Van Breemen and Delon had two children during this time, a daughter named Anouschka and a son, Alain-Fabien. Realizing his career was almost over, Delon decided to make one more film which he would use to determine whether he could continue to succeed or whether his time as an actor was up. He starred in the 1998 movie ‘Une Chance Sur Deux’ which immediately flopped and he announced his retirement from acting, although he continued to take the occasional role when it fell into his lap.

Delon in Dinner Jacket and Belmondo in Black Tie

The Style of Alain Delon

by Sven Raphael Schneider

Alain Delon was certainly a man of style, not just in his movies but also in real live and if he had managed to speak English fluently he would have been even more well known than he is today. His style was manifold but always trendsetting, probably because it always had a rakish element that made him stand out, no matter if he wore a three piece suit or an unbuttoned linen shirt.

He liked his ties slim, and his collars were never more than medium spread. The lapels on his suits varied in width, though they were mostly slim.

When wearing Black Tie, he favored a single button, peaked lapel jacket with medium to slim lapels. His tuxedo shirts were white, pleated, with turndown or wing collar, double cuffs and two studs instead of the 4 or 5 you usually see today.

On occasion, he would also wear a marcella bib stiff fronted shirt with one visible shirt stud, single stiff cuff and detachable wing collar. Although a fashion from the 1930’s when the tuxedo was upgraded in terms of formality by combining it with a white tie shirt, Delon managed to keep it look timeless and elegant when he wore it.

Alain Delon in a tuxedo with Annabelle

Although he looked splendid with Borsalino hats, he rarely wore the privately.

For his casual ensembles he always favored a nonchalant look that is often referred to as Sprezzatura nowadays.

Sometimes he would wear boutonnieres in his lapel and cut a splendid figure.

Today, his suits lack the elegance of times gone-bye, his tie knots are often sloppy and have a gap between the open shirt, and the knot. Although he was a true style icon from the Mad Men era, he did not manage to remain as stylish as other seasoned movie stars such as Fred Astaire.

For a better understanding of his style, watch the video below and for more pictures of Delon, you should take a look here.

The Business Man

Unlike many actors around the world, Delon was smart with his money and knew he needed a back up in case film ever let him down. In addition to his career as an actor, Delon was also a very successful entrepreneur. He has manufactured a number of products including watches, sunglasses, cigarettes, perfume and clothing.

Conclusion

Today, Alain Delon, thanks to dual citizenship he received in the late 1990s, lives in Chêne-Bougeries near Geneva, Switzerland with his two youngest children where he remains in semi-retirement, managing his businesses and occasionally making a public appearance. He has, since the beginning of his career, been considered a French style-symbol with his personal style being heralded by fans around the world. Despite his many chagrins, Delon has managed to accrue a reputation as one of the most sartorially-savvy gentlemen in all of France.

As it gets warmer, men begin the annual transition from heavy to lightweight clothing to beat the heat. However, lightweight clothing alone isn’t enough to keep you cool – beyond the actual weight, the material and the weave also matter. In this article, we will discuss the importance of finding the right kind of lightweight summer sport coat, why you should wear them and what to pay attention to during the buying process. 

8 Secrets of a Great Summer Sport Coat

It’s easy to assume that as long as the fabric is lightweight a sport coat will be perfect for summer, but that is simply not the case! While weight is certainly one aspect, it is not the only one, and a lightweight fabric on its own does not necessarily make for a good summer garment. Here are the 8 main points you should consider when buying a sport coat for warm weather.

Summery Sport Coat Ensemble

1. Start with the Right Weight…

It goes without saying that a summer sport coat should be lightweight, but what exactly does that mean? Ideally, a leightweight choice would fall around 8 to 9 oz (240 – 270 grams); any lighter and you’ll have to make compromises in terms of looks and drape. Chances are a 7 oz fabric will look too flimsy and wrinkle easily. That being said, high quality weavers are innovative and manage to produce progressively lighter fabrics without sacrificing the look of the garment.

Buttercup boutonniere in yellow work well with summer sport coats

2. …but Remember the Weave Is Just as Important

The weave of the fabric is extremely important because a tightly woven fabric restricts airflow, whereas an open weave fabric (such as a fresco ) makes you feel every little breeze. Therefore, take a close look at the weave.  Hold the fabric up to the light, and you will see how open or closed it is. You can almost see through a very open weave fabric, whereas a tightly woven fabric doesn’t allow you to see much. Gagliardi’s sport coat has a semi-open weave because while I can see through it to some extent, I have have seen and felt other fabrics that allow more airflow. At the same time, it is much better suited for warm weather than regular suiting fabrics.

Backview of the Gagliardi summer sport coat

3. Opt for Texture

Unlike suits, which are often used in more formal environments, a sport coat is a bit more casual. It helps you to look well dressed without being overdressed, even if others don’t wear them. As such, you should opt for a fabric with some texture which will add to the casual nature of the coat. Materials such as linen or cotton are often used for sport coat fabrics for that reason. Often blended with silk or wool, these fabrics are usually woven with yarns or irregular thickness, which results in little knobs and irregularities. These are by no means defects but intentional because they provide the fabric with that distinct summer look.

The Gagliardi sport coat I received is tailored from a fabric originating from the Italian mill Bottoli and woven of 60% linen and 40% cotton, which lends it a beautiful texture and a crisp hand. The cotton helps to make it wrinkle less than pure linen and it also feels a bit softer because of it. When worn it keeps its shape, draping nicely on one’s body.

Sophisticated Wrinkles a of Cotton and Linen Blend Fabric

4. Go Unlined

Even if you have the most openly woven fabric, you will still restrict the airflow if you add a lining to your coat. Linings are typically added to a suit to protect the outer fabric and to allow the jacket to glide more easily over the shirt that is worn underneath. Most linings are made of viscose, an artificially made fiber based on natural cellulose, cupro or Bemberg. Although lightweight, these lining fabrics are woven tightly in order to not to rip any threads, but no matter how light it is, it will always add extra weight compared to a coat without any lining. Silk is the most luxurious lining but during the summer time, it acts as an insulator just like any other lining. There are two types of linings that fall under the designation of “unlined”.

Completely Unlined

Completely unlined jackets are very rare, because it means that not even the sleeves have any form of lining. While it maximizes the air flow, the jacket fabric will often catch the shirt, which makes it prone to not-so-attractive bumps and wrinkles. Generally, unlined jackets are only worn in the hottest climates and only available bespoke because it is actually more time consuming to tailor an unlined jacket. A lining also serves to hide seams and hems, so an unlined coat must be very neatly finished relative to its covered counterpart.

If you want a jacket that is made of cashmere or very soft flannel for the winter, with little or no interlining, unlined can work, but for more textured summer fabrics, it’s not something I personally suggest. Instead,  I prefer half-lined coats over completely unlined ones because they are more comfortable to put on and drape better.

Half-lined Gagliardi Sport coat with clean workmanship on the inside

Half Lined

Most summer jackets feature a “half” lining, which means that only the shoulders and sleeves are lined. This allows for comfortable movement, smooth layering over the shirt, and decent fit without compromising the airflow in the back, where it feels particularly refreshing when a breeze hits you.

Gagliardi’s Sport coat is half lined and neatly finished on the inside with beautiful hems. I tested it in 95 degree Arizona heat and could feel the breeze.

Sewn, soft interlining is important

5. Select a Sewn Interlining

One of the most important aspects that many men do not consider for summer clothing is the coat’s interlining. In order to get the 2 dimensional fabric into a 3 dimensional shape, interlinings are used to keep the sport coat in shape and hence more than 99.99% of sport coats have feature an interlining. Basically, you can have two different types of interlinings: fused and sewn/unfused interlining.

The interlining has a huge impact on breathability.

• Top quality garments have a sewn interlining and no fusing, which is also called full canvas. These are best to keep you cool because they allow air the flow freely.
• Value sport coats often feature a half canvas construction, which means that the chest has sewn interlining, while the bottom part of the front quarters are fused. In terms of breathability, these are better than fused and worse than all canvas.
• Cheap garments feature an all fused construction because it is the least expensive option. This is the worst option, because you will sweat much more in these sport coats even though the fabric is the same.

Now, even if you go with a full canvas construction, not all canvasses are alike. Some are stiffer with more horsehair, while others are softer. For a summer jacket I recommend a full canvas or at least a half canvas construction with as little interlining as possible. You want a lightweight, airy coat and so you should add as few additional layers to reduce insulation.

Gagliardi uses a half canvas construction and a soft canvas, but the coat is crisper than the fine blue jacket I reviewed a few months ago, and very similar to the linen blazer I discussed over a year ago. For the money, you get a great value because full canvas is usually only reserved for top quality garments with a higher price tag.

Perfect colors and texture for summer

6. Go with a Bold Pattern

For summer coats, a pattern serves a functional as well as a stylistic purpose. Because of the open weave of the jacket, a pattern will help mask the transparency  which would otherwise reveal the color differences underneath. Some great pattern options include checks, seersucker, or a go really bold and choose a rowing blazer. Windowpanes work especially well when they are bold and glen plaids are perfect. Avoid other stripes, including pinstripes, as well as solids because they look too much like suit jackets. Gagliardi opted for a glencheck inspired pattern that is ideal for a summer sport coat.

7. Embrace Strong Colors

Unlike for a more muted winter wardrobe, your summer wardrobe is the perfect place to choose vivid hues of blue, green or red. Skip grey or dark navy and go with white, ivory, orange or yellow accents instead. Brown can work too. At the end of the day it all depends on the combination. The Gagliardi coat is a perfect example for summer colors. The base pattern consists of white and mid-blue, making it look light airy and summery. The orange overplaid makes it unique and interesting. Simply perfect.

Summer Coats need a bold pattern

8. Choose a Single Breasted Cut & Details

Personally, I am a huge fan of double breasted jackets but if you want to stay cool in the summer, single breasted coats are definitely the way to go because a DB jacket adds another layer of fabric that makes you feel warmer, not cooler.

To underline its more casual character, I suggest you go with patch or angled pockets to give the outfit a more casual edge. You don’t want a suit jacket in a different fabric, you want a sport coat that makes you look great.

Angled Flap pockets

Obviously, Gagliardi fits right in there and with its boutonniere loop it is ready for some decorative boutonniere flowers in your lapel. The cut of the jacket is very trim and slim so you will definitely look dapper wearing one. In my opinion, Gagliardi offers a nice range of summer sport coats in different colors and slim fits which are perfect for the men who appreciate the Mediterranean look but who don’t want to spend too much. Their customer service is superb and worldwide free shipping helps to test things out. Personally, I own several similar jackets in green and blue because I really enjoy the opportunity to wear bright odd combinations while the season lasts.

Knit Tie, Gagliardi Sport Coat and Pocket Square

Conclusion

Finding the right summer sport coat for you is easy if you pay attention to 8 key features: weight, weave, texture, lining, interlining, pattern, color, and cut. If you are into custom clothing, make sure to order your coats when it is still cold so they arrive before it is too late to wear them.  Luckily, you can always rely on ready to wear and Gagliardi is specialized in spring summer menswear at an affordable price with Mediterranean flair. Click here to take a look at their collection.

I remember very distinctly what my first pair of spectator shoes looked like: they were Derbies with light brown and off-white uppers. The brown part was brogued, and I wore them rather frequently with navy pants, but they always looked best with brown slacks. Today, I still wear spectators occasionally, and I receive many compliments on them. However, I also know that many men believe they can’t pull off wearing this bold shoe. In short, you absolutely can! Today, I’d like the share our guide about two-tone spectator shoes that will help you set aside any anxiety and enjoy the shoes for what they are – beautiful pieces of footwear that are particularly suited to wear in summer.

What is A Spectator Shoe?

Simply put, the spectator is a shoe with two different colors. It doesn’t matter if it is an Oxford, a Derby or a Loafer, all that matter that is has two distinct tones on the upper.

Purists would like to limit the contrasting colors to black/white or brown/white and insist upon all leather materials. However, you can find all kinds of other variations, for example in navy/gray velour leather, black/beige leather and fabric or light brown/dark brown leather. Basically, the options are endless, and that gives you the benefit of choosing a color combination that suits you.

Despite that, the majority of spectators are wingtip oxfords in either white/black or white/brown. The use of white makes them more summery.

Sometimes, you will find shoes that are even more narrowly defined, such as the saddle shoe with its contrasting middle part – the saddle. Although it is technically a spectator, it is always referred to as saddle shoe because it describes the style more narrowly.

Spectator Shoe Guide

Spectator History

The history of the spectator is a bit muddled. Most sources give the honor to John Lobb, the famous English bootmaker, who, in fact, claims to have made the first spectator as a cricket shoe in 1868. At the time, cricket shoes used to be all white but during the game they would soil very quickly. John Lobb added black leather to the areas that usually get dirty immediately, and the spectator was born. In England, it is also known as the co-respondent shoe. Some claim the shoe got its name from the people who wore them because back then a co-respondent was a silver-tongued individual with a questionable past, who charmed his way into the bed of an innocent young women. Others associate the name with the corresponding colors of the shoes.

Edward kicking the Rugby with spectator shoes

Some also claim that Spats were the predecessor to spectators, but that theory doesn’t quite fit. Spats only covered the top of a boot or shoe, which doesn’t match up with the color placement on the spectator.

In any case, the origins seem questionable; vintage fashion illustrations show two-tone shoes predating 1868.

Wingtip Spectator or Co-respondent shoe

Colonial Style Shoes

Interestingly, the Colonial British set favored a two-tone shoe with brown leather and contrasting beige canvas in tropical locations, and you can still find this combination of materials around today. So, don’t shy away from canvas/leather shoes as they have a long-standing history with British gentlemen.

Perforated Spectators

Since spectators used to be a summer favorite, vintage versions often came with perforated leather uppers for increased breathability. Perforation is not to be confused with brogueing, which is merely decorative. Today, you will only find these shoes when ordering a bespoke pair or a higher end Made-To-Order shoe. If you can get your hands on a pair of those, consider yourself lucky because not only will they be unique and stylish, they will also be functional. An alternative to perforated leather is woven leather, which is something you will see on occasion.

Shoepassion No 381 with Hole Perforations for Summer

Evolution of The Spectator

In England, the spectator was considered a bit too flamboyant for gentleman up until the 1930s. At the same time, it was a popular choice among a certain set of men who were called lounge lizards and cads, neither of which are flattering labels. However, in the Golden Thirties, the Duke of Windsor wore a lot of spectator loafers, and his endorsement pushed more and more English men would follow suit, and the co-respondent became an acceptable dress shoe.

Vintage Spectators with unusual brogueing

In the US, they were favored by musicians and gangsters in the 1920s and 30s, and soon became synonymous with the jazz scene and the Roaring Twenties. According to some, the blend of black and white also had an ideological background. Once Jazz musicians had popularized this shoe style, many actors would follow. Some of the most memorable wearers of spectator include Louis Armstrong, Al Capone, Fred Astaire, President Truman and the Duke of Windsor.

WWII put and end to the popularity of the spectator, and it would never gain the same popularity again. During the 1980s, it saw a revival among the new wave of young musicians with Michael Jackson leading the way, but it didn’t influence the elegant set.

Today, it is popular with swing dancers and men who admire the glorious twenties and thirties.

How To Wear Spectators Today

If you wear spectators today, you certainly exude confidence because it requires a bit of thought when putting together an outfit. Personally, I think spectators look fantastic with white flannel slacks or brown suits. Some also wear them with navy striped suits although that will more likely earn you “gangster look” comments rather than, “Oh, how elegant” compliments.

The spectator is a somewhat casual style and hence it is inappropriate for formal occasions. At the same time, it may also be too loud for many office environments, but it is the perfect shoe for weekend outfits, casual Fridays, outdoor weddings or garden parties when paired with a sport coat and solid pants. It will always exude the flair of the Golden Age of men’s style and elevate your outfit. The key is to keep all other pieces subtle, so the shoes can shine without overpowering your outfit.

Because the shoes are more noticeable than most dress shoes, you should keep the rest of your outfit simple. For example, a navy blazer, with off-white slacks, a striped or printed tie, and a light blue shirt are the perfect companion for a pair of spectator shoes.

Spectators have traditionally been favored on golf courses and you can wear them there as well today.

Moreover, if you are a dancer, you should definitely invest in a pair of spectators, especially if you like swing. It just goes well with the music, and you want to look the part on the parquet floor.

The recent remake of The Great Gatsby has certainly helped to put a spotlight on the spectator shoe again. The movie is a good starting point along with our review of the styles seen in the film.

What Spectators To Buy

If you want a British version of spectator shoes, look no further than Crockett & Jones. They offer classic, yet elegant lasts as spectators in black/white or brown/white as well as unusual models such as a double monk strap spectator with canvas. With their MTO program, you can even create your very own two-tone look.

For U.S. made spectators, Allen Edmonds is certainly one of the best options for spectator shoes. I have a pair from them made on the Bel Air last and it is gorgeous. I don’t think they offer this model anymore, but they often come out with special editions and they always have spectators in their lineup.

If you are looking for an extensive selection of two-tone shoe styles (currently 19 styles in stock), you have to checkout Shoepassion. Not only are their made in Spain shoes Goodyear welted, but they are also very affordable, and once you get the VAT back, they cost around $200, which is a phenomenal value!

Apart from that, you can find many other brands that offer spectator shoes and bespoke shoes are always an option, if you are so inclined.

This article was wtitten by Sven Raphael Schneider and Vikram Nanjappa

For many, the Ivy, Prep, and Trad styles tend to blend together in a way that makes it difficult to differentiate them from one another.We’ve discussed preppy style in detail and in this primer, we’re going to focus on the Ivy style, which unbeknownst to most, is actually a style of its own, separate and apart from prep and trad.

Of course, there are many similarities, but in most cases it’s not so much the clothing, but how they’re worn.

The prep look is far more nautical in appearance, more beach appropriate and an ideal style for the Hamptons and Cape Cod. Ivy style, on the other hand, is a dressier version of prep that’s ideal for the historic chambers in the hallowed walls of America’s Ivy League schools like Harvard, Princeton, and Yale.

The History of Ivy Style

While the preppy style has been around since the early 1900s, first making an appearance around 1910, the ivy style really began to flourish in the early to mid 1950s on the grounds of the top universities and colleges in America. Just as prep style influenced many designers, ivy style took its fair share of the credit leading us to use the terms prep, ivy, and trad as synonyms of one another. Blended over the years, Ivy style was born out of an interest in appearing more elegant and well dressed than the casual undertones of the prep culture. While prep style was reserved for garden parties, sailing, and casual affairs, Ivy style was for more formal, casual occasions such as attending class at Harvard Law, going on a late dinner date with the young lady you met at the Square or an event your parents insisted you attend with them at the country club after giving you a stern warning to leave the boat shoes and anchor bracelets at home.

Ivy style was perfect for on campus lectures

The style was a direct reflection of college life at the campuses only the most affluent and well-versed students could attend. It separated the men of Harvard and Yale from the common youth at other colleges, and especially in a town like Cambridge where there are more colleges than shopping malls, the Ivy style became a way to instantly recognize a member of your social circle. That is until the style caught on and began to rise in popularity amongst all young men and women throughout the Northeastern United States.

Despite the students of the Ivy League schools knowing the style as “Ivy”, the rest of the world simply adopted it as a more formal version of prep and thus the blending of the styles was introduced. It is only the rarest of gentlemen that can pinpoint the differences between the various styles, but is something we’ll attempt to explain.

What is Ivy Style

Ivy style is about two things. Representing yourself through your wardrobe as a member of one of the most elite universities or colleges in the world and dressing down when the authority figure such as your father would normally dress up.

It’s really that simple. Slightly more formal, yet still relatively casual. Of course, today the styles are intertwined like vines along an old rusted fence and ivy style as its own subculture fell from existence in the late 1960s. Today the only separation between the two is the varying degree of formality, yet even that is too close to distinguish.

Christian Chensvold of Ivy-Style.com makes the perfect analogy. He says, “In 1964, when a spirited girl meets a handsome, reserved, all-American, clean-cut kind of guy who gets his clothing at Brooks Brothers, and simultaneously finds herself both attracted and repelled by him, she teasingly calls him ‘Ivy League.’”

“And in 1970”, he says, “after the fall of the Ivy League Look when this same spirited girl meets the same all-American guy, she mockingly calls him ‘preppy.’”

“So you see”, remarks Chensvold, “the clothing is essentially the same. It’s just how women referred to the clothing — and the men who wore it.”

Various Ivy Leaguers

Today, the only difference come down to semantics. True Ivy Leaguers will opt for penny loafers, Preps will choose boat shoes. A Prep will wear pants and shoes without socks. Conversely, Ivy Leaguers will only do so in the heat of summer. A Prep will almost never wear a suit and usually opt for a navy blazer instead. An Ivy Leaguer – while he loves the blazer – will still wear a suit almost half of the time.

When it comes to Prep, it’s about convenience, comfort and then style. For the Ivy Leaguer, it’s about style followed by comfort and then convenience. A Prep will throw on the first polo shirt he finds in his closet and pair it with GTH pants. An Ivy Leaguer will take the time to put it under a cricket sweater and wear linen pants in eggshell.

When it comes to sports and lifestyle, both Prep and Ivy styles intertwine completely. Polo, tennis and golf remain favorites and a weekend in Southampton is considered a sublime way to spend the summer. Winters are spent in Palm Beach, and there’s nothing better than spending a warm afternoon sipping G&Ts on a sailboat.

The tennis sweater was a pinnacle of ivy style fashion

Ivy Style Purveyors and Clothing

Of course with blended styles, the same clothiers occupied both the preppy style industry and the Ivy style industry. The most popular for Ivy Style was J.Press followed closely by Brooks Brothers, both of which were instrumental in the development of the mingled style we know it as today.

Of course, with Ivy style being so closely related to prep, we urge you to read our Preppy Style Guide by clicking here for the most iconic clothing. However, let’s examine some style staples we would find in Ivy Style pre-1967.

Classic Penny Loafers

Penny Loafers

Introduced in 1936 by the G.H. Bass shoe company, penny loafers became an instant hit amongst the wealthy undergrads at Ivy League Schools in the United States. The ease of slipping them on combined with the formality of leather and suede made it the perfect compliment to a formal and yet very casual wardrobe. Read more about the penny loafer by clicking here. That, or click here to buy your own pair of penny loafers.

A casual day in the life of an ivy leaguer

Khaki Pants

Also called chinos, these are generally made from 100% cotton and despite being worn today by many retail stores and trades workers as uniforms, also work very well to compliment a blazer or with a sweater and tie. Available from numerous merchants, the classic chinos come from Brooks Brothers and are designed as a pair of business casual trousers perfect for a variety of events. They’re especially comfortable to wear in the summer as they breathe nicely, but they also work well due to their sturdier construction when compared to dress slacks. Click here to get a pair of khaki pants.

Knit Ties

Made from silk and wool, knit ties are a great way to fit into a more formal business environment while displaying a certain amount of sprezzatura and casualness. Their luxurious feel and cri de la soie texture make them a style staple for future corporate raiders, oil barons and media moguls that are still grasping onto their youth. Click here to see a selection of the finest knit ties from Fort Belvedere.

A classic Ivy League student

Herringbone Jackets

The herringbone jacket is a perfect way to turn what could otherwise be a more formal jacket into something casual without a wild pattern. With its country appeal, it became very popular for wear by those who frequented or took part in equestrian events. It was the jacket to use when you wanted to dress up for a date on the town but without looking like you were attending a funeral. With flap pockets and larger buttons to increase its casual tone, it has been and still remains a staple in ivy style. Today, it works very well with a pair of boots, an oxford cloth button down shirt and corduroy pants. Click here to buy a herringbone jacket.

Two Button Cuff Jacket

Almost a homage to avoiding anything worn by your father, the two button cuff jacket became the standard worn by the Ivy League crowd. As if intended to piss off the older generation, it’s still worn today by Ivy Leaguers and is a great way for anyone to turn a formal jacket into leisurewear.

The iconic letter sweater

School Sweaters

School sweaters are usually reserved these days for the cheerleading team, but back in the 1950s, men would wear these knit sweaters boasting their School’s letter in the center of the sweater. Not necessarily popular today, it was a standard amongst men on game days both on and off campus as a show of support for their school.

Recommended Reading

Here are a few of our favorite books on Ivy Style.

Preppy Cultivating Ivy Style

Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style by Jeffrey Banks

An authority on preppy style, Jeffrey Banks focuses on the style that helped shape what we know today as Prep. Taking us back to the Ivy League campuses of the fifties, this incredible book shows us the most fashionable ivy league style staples from its heyday. Click here to get a copy.

Ivy Style Book by Patricia Mears

Ivy Style: Radical Conformists by Patricia Mears

A look into the styles of the most prestigious college campuses in the mid 20th century, Mears introduces us to what was pinnacle of classic preppy fashion. A great read filled with insights and history, you can get your own copy by clicking here or read our review here.

The Ivy League

The Ivy League by Daniel Cappello

While it discusses the style, this book focuses on everything Ivy League related. From the private clubs to the classroom, it’s a really fantastic read if you’re interested in the schools and the lifestyle but never had the chance to attend. Click here for your copy.

The Ivy Look Pocket Guide

The Ivy Look: Classic American Clothing – An Illustrated Pocket Guide by Graham Marsh

“Democratic, stylish and comfortable”, The Ivy Look is literally a pocket guide to everything Ivy Style. Focused on life before the preppy style, it showcases what it meant to be a member of the Ivy League in the early 1950s to mid 1960s. It’s an interesting book but one that tends to tread slightly outside of the Ivy Style focusing on celebrities who attempted to replicate parts of it. Click here for your own pocket guide.

Take Ivy by Shosuke Ishizu

Described by The New York Times as, “a treasure of fashion insiders,” Take Ivy is a look at the classic Ivy Style and how the American fashion influenced Japan. An archive of photographs serves as its road map to discussing the trend that swept the nation and then jumped the pond. Click here for your own copy.

Conclusion

Hopefully, this has given you a glimpse into the minor differences between Preppy style and Ivy League style. Obviously, there aren’t many and it’s very difficult to differentiate the two; especially when designers, the media and the general public all classify them as one in the same.

We highly recommend checking out our Preppy Style Guide for more information. Stay tuned as we’ll soon discuss Trad style and learn about its differences and similarities.

The Windsor Knot is one of the most popular tie knots, yet it is often confused with the Half- Windsor knot and hence also known as the Double Windsor or Full Windsor. In today’s video, I am going to show you how to tie the Windsor knot properly, what tie to use & what not to use, what shirt collars it works with as well as the history of the knot.

If you like the video, please share it with others and give us a thumbs up, thank you.

Transcript:

Welcome back to our series about tie knots! In this video, I’m going to show you how to tie the Windsor knot.

In the late 20s, the Prince of Wales was one of the most popular, most stylish and most photographed men in the world. He decided to wear big tie knots and so the term Windsor knot appeared and stood for a big tie knot. Interestingly, the Duke of Windsor actually never wore this knot as he said in his biography; A Family Album which is very interesting because it talks a lot about his clothes.

Let me read you the quote, ” The so-called Windsor knot in the tie was adopted in America at a later date. It was, I believe, regulation wear for G.I.s during the war when American college boys adopted it too. But in fact,I was in no way responsible for this. The knot to which the Americans gave my name was a double knot in a narrow tie – a ‘slim jim’ as it was sometimes called. It is true that I myself have always preferred a large knot as looking better than a small one, so during the nineteen-twenties I devised, in conclave with Mr. Sandford, a tie always of the broad variety which was reinforced by an extra thickness of material to produce this effect. As far as I know, this particular fashion has never been followed in America or elsewhere.”

Real Ancient Madder Silk Tie in Blue with Reg & Buff Paisley Handmade by Fort Belvedere

So as you can see, the Duke of Windsor created the size of the tie knot with the interlining and with the fabrics he used, not with the knot. This is just another proof that it’s not just the knot, it’s the tie, the silk, the interlining and it all plays together in the size and the look of the knot. That being said, In terms of size the Windsor knot is one of the biggest tie knots out there at the same time, it’s also very popular but what’s important to understand is that in order to tie a Windsor knot, you should A. get a tie that’s longer B. it should be thinner simply because it’s such a big knot. So here, you see me wearing a very thin madder silk tie by Fort Belvedere with paisleys and the knot is still rather big. I think it’s very popular because of its symmetry although personally, I’m a huge fan of it. Nevertheless, here is how you tie it.

You want the slim end on your right and the wide end on your left. The slim end should be about a hand and a half above the waistband. If you have a shorter tie, it needs to come up much further.  So you’ll have to experiment with it and see what works. Wide end goes from left to the right, up here and pinch it and take the bottom end, come through here and pull it through. And then you go to your left side, now’s the chance and move the long wide part around the right side, come up and go through the hole in the back and pull it down. So what’s happening here is you can see you have two knots, one, two. You pull it a little tight and bring the wide end to the left side and again up, pull it up and you see the knot forms. Like usual, bring the wide end through the knot, gently pull and if you want a dimple, you can pinch on top. pull it gently through.

If you like the look, pull it up and adjust. As you can see, this knot is very symmetrical and it’s very wide, forms this triangular shape and that’s why you want a wide cutaway spread collar to accommodate this knot with a classic or medium spread collars, you run into troubles because the collar is going to cover the edges which looks not very advantageous. You’re much better off with a four in hand knot or a kelvin or a Pratt knot rather than the full Windsor knot. Now, what happens if you use a thick tie?

Herringbone wool red & off white 3 Fold tie & light blue paisley silk pocket square – Handmade by Fort Belvedere

I’ll show you. Here, I have a longer wool blend tie from Fort Belvedere with red herringbone. I’m going to do the same thing, I’ll tie the Windsor knot. Now this is what the Windsor knot looks like with a thick tie, it basically eats my face. Personally, I don’t like that look. If you like it, go for it but always bear in mind, full Windsor knots look better with a slim long tie. Oftentimes, I see shorter men wear a Windsor knot because the only way for them to get their long ties to the right length is to choose a bigger knot however, that looks awkward because they have smaller heads and big knots which just looks overwhelmingly wrong. Therefore, I created ties in three different sizes. Some for short men, some for normal men and some for tall men so everybody can wear the right tie knot and tie size that works best for their personality and the face rather than having to come up with a gigantic knot so you achieve the right length. So, if you’re a shorter man or taller or normal guy in terms of height, check out our shop and we have specific ties at specific lengths so you look your best.

If you enjoyed these how to a tie videos and how not to tie them, please sign up for our list and we’ll send these videos right to your inbox. Thank you!

Most men I have met spent a lot of money on dress shoes, yet they often buy the wrong kind of shoes, they don’t invest in quality or all of the above.  Whether you are just buying your first pair of shoes or if you already have many dress shoes in your closet, today’s video about 3 Men’s Dress Shoes Must Haves is for you because we all go on vacation and have to limit our dress shoe selection to the most essential and versatile models.o

Of course, we all have different needs and a white collar worker needs different shoes than an artist does, but these 3 models are something that every well dressed man should call his own.

If you enjoy this video, please share it, and give us a thumbs up, thanks.

Transcript:

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In this video, I’m going to highlight the three men’s dress shoes every man must have, what you should avoid when buying dress shoes and I’ll even have bonus two pairs for you.

In 1960, the Esquire author, George Fraser once said “If you want to know a guy is well dressed, look down.” And boy was he right. Shoes can really make or break an outfit, if you have a nice pair of shoes, it really upgrades anything you wear. It can be a cheap suit, even if the fit is not ideal, a really good, well – polished and nice looking quality pair of shoes will just upgrade your outfit and make you look more professional and respected. On the flip side, if you have a cheap pair of shoes, even the best fitting, most expensive suit will simply not look good because of the choice of shoes so it’s extremely important to invest in a quality pair of shoes so you get an overall great look.

A good pair of shoes will not be inexpensive, it will cost some money, but the good thing is you can wear it for a long time and so the effective cost per wear goes down. For example, I bought my first pair of quality men’s dress shoes in 2002. It was a wingtip derby and I’ve resold it many times and served me really well. By now, the cost per wear is probably about 20 – 25 cents which us extremely low compared to a pair of shoes that you buy for 50 bucks, but you’ll have to throw after 6 or 12 months because they’re already worn out. The cost per wear is much higher so it really pays to invest in quality and to build a shoe wardrobe that you can wear with many different kinds of outfits and that’s what we’re doing in this video today.

Your shoe wardrobe should probably look different than mine because it depends on many aspects. It’s about your profession, your age, your style and also your environment and many other factors. However, these three men’s dress shoes that I’m going to talk about today are really the best start for 99% of the men out there and I’m sure they will work for you as well. These shoes are elegant, versatile and will help you to round out your look and be more respected and well dressed.

Pediwear Collection Black Cap Toe Oxford – True Budget Oxford at 109.50 GBP.

Shoe number 1: Black Cap Toe Oxford

I recommend black cap toe oxfords to every man because it’s the first shoe you should start with. It’s great for business suits, great for formal outfits. You can wear it even with a tuxedo if you can’t afford a patent leather shoe which is fine and this is the first shoe that you have when you’re a grown up. Even though it’s great for business suits and everything professional, it’s not a great shoe for jeans or khakis so you should wear it more with formal outfits, with suits, sometimes with combinations but not for casual outfits. it should be made of box calf leather and it should not have any broguing. If you want to learn more about Oxfords, what constitutes an Oxford and how it’s different from a Derby or other men’s dress shoes, I recommend you take a look at our in-depth Oxford shoe guide where we show you anything from how to actually lace an Oxford, how to buy them and how to pick the right model for your wardrobe and budget. One thing to really keep in mind, the Oxford is a dressy shoe, it’s a men’s dress shoe after all and so you want it to be polished and you want ot be made of box calf leather and must have a leather sole because it’s just more elegant that way.

Cognac Brown Derby Full Brogue with 2 inch cuff

Shoe #2 – The Brown Derby

The second essential men’s dress shoe you must have is the brown Derby in a full brogue or a semi brogue version. So what does that mean? A derby has an open lacing system versus a closed lacing system. You can learn about the differences here. A derby is a perfect shoe for all kinds of casual events, semi-formal events. You can wear it with jeans and chinos even like suits. Although for very formal outfits, you should probably go with the Oxford. It’s a great travel shoe and because it’s more open, it gives you the option to fit even bigger feet. So most men would say the Derby is a little more comfortable. With broguing, I mean that little hole perforation and simply add some more casual character and you can have a wingtip or you can have a half brogue which means just broguing on the cap, but it’s a straight cap. Both of these shoes are extremely versatile and they should be a part of every man’s wardrobe. In terms of color, brown comes in hundreds of different shades so for your first pair, try to go like a medium brown because it’s super versatile, not too dark, not too light and you can just combine them really well.

Oxblood Cordovan Tassel Loafers by Meermin, with red blue striped socks by Fort Belvedere & red Indochino slacks

Shoe #3 – The Oxblood Cordovan Loafer

Number three on the top three men’s dress shoes is the Oxblood or the cordovan loafer. Now many men would have never thought about an Oxblood or Cordovan loafer. What I mean by that, it’s a dark, red loafer and the advantage of this color is that it literally works with everything. You can wear it with charcoal, navy, khaki, off-white, green, brown, you name it. It works with every color and that’s why it’s essential to have this kind of dark red oxblood colored shoe in your first three shoe collection because it allows you to just add very few items and create a lot of different looks. The color also works really well with any kind of suit, chino, jeans, combinations, slacks, seersucker, madras and so there’s just endless variety. I suggest you get a loafer because a loafer is slightly more casual shoe and you already have an Oxford and a Derby. The loafer is even less formal but it allows you to really kind of wear it in your spare time, on the weekends, afternoons, even at the office it’s perfectly fine. Specifically, I would recommend you get either a penny loafer. If you want to know what the difference is between those two, please read my article, my in-depth loafer guide where I talk about all of these things.

If you think it’s a shoe that just your dad would wear, trust me there are lots of cool looking styles on different lasts. They are really young and fresh-looking and modern and classy at the same time.Also, make sure that you get a matching belt, matching in a sense of color because you always want to pair the belt and the shoe in the same color otherwise, it looks off and it’s a faux pas and people will think you don’t know how to dress. If you enjoyed this video, please sign up to our email list and I will send you more of these videos right to your inbox and check out our website, www.gentlemansgazette.com where we have a lot of material all about classic men”s clothing and style. Thank you!

A little over three years ago, I was introduced to a new suit hanger that blew away the then-leading clothes hanger on the market. Specifically, I am talking about Butler Luxury, the brand created by Mike Cregan, a clothes hanger veteran of 25 years.

Better Than Best?

What impressed me about the original Butler Luxury hanger was its solid quality, felted hanger bar as well as the smooth, matte finish that looked so much more sophisticated than the thickly coated varnish from The Hanger Project.

Although it was the best hanger on the market at the time, Mike wanted something better, and so I suggested he create a hanger with a round neckline that mimics the curve of the neck. I had seen these hangers in tailor shops in Italy and provided him with photos.

Butler Luxury Hangers

Prototypes & Improvements

He started working on the first prototype, which turned out to be the perfect idea with imperfect execution.

Of course, Mike was anything but happy with the situation, and he went back to the drawing board. After a few months, he came up with a new three-piece construction and a superior neckpiece that truly provides the best possible hold for a tailored garment. The widest shoulder pads in the industry had just the right shape; the weight was hefty, and finish felt luxurious.

Double Trouser Hangers

The original Butler Luxury hanger always had one felted trouser bar that ensured that pants would never slip down. However, men who wear suits on a daily basis often invest in a second pair of trousers because they usually wear out faster than the jacket.

Therefore, Butler Luxury add a second trouser bar allowing you to hang two trousers and one jacket from one hanger, which is fantastic. That way you always see your entire suit, and you never have to stack multiple pants on top of each other.

Butler Luxury Hangers

Why Buy a $38 Hanger?

I get it – this hanger is anything but cheap, but if you own tailored clothes, it is a highly recommended investment, especially since the price goes down the more hangers you buy.

Here EIGHT reasons it’s worth investing in great hangers from Butler Luxury:

1. Thin wire, plastic or wooden hangers will destroy the shoulder of your tailored jacket over time.

2. The price is a small fraction of the cost of your suit, and it helps to prolong the life of your garments, which means the cost per wear decreases.

3. You will not find a nicer hanger around anywhere. The silky matte finish, in combination with the weight and superior shape, makes this hanger a joy to look at in any closet.

4. The materials are first rate; these hangers are made of the fine German beechwood.

5. The hangers will match or contrast your existing closet: you can choose between a deep butterscotch color and a darker espresso walnut finish that work with most closets and woods out there. Personally, I prefer tone in tone but others like the hangers to stand out more – the choice is yours.

6. The hangers come in different sizes, accommodating every jacket from size 38 to size 48.

7. Double trouser bar, so you can hang two trousers + one suit on a single hanger. Great for organization AND maximizing the use of your storage space

8. You’ll never need to replace these hangers – they will last for a lifetime.

Butler Luxury Hangers

Is It Really The Best Hanger In The World?

I am always very careful about using superlatives; proclaiming something is “the best in the world” is often a marketing gimmick or an unsubstantiated opinion rather than a result of comparing all the options available in the world.

To date, I have not seen a better suit hanger on the market, and hence I consider it to be the best suit and jacket hanger available today. Is it perfect for everything? No, they are too heavy for travel, simply not necessary for shirts and they are unsuitable for small closets in which every inch matters. However, if you want a functional, beautifully crafted and impressive clothes hanger for your suit investments, look no further than the new Butler Luxury Clothes Hangers.

Will I Get Rid Of My Old Butler Luxury Hangers?

I upgraded all of my clothes hangers to Butler luxury about two years ago, and I could not be happier with them. Since they do not show any signs of wear I will not replace them because it would simply be a waste. However, if I were to buy clothes hangers today, the dark matte espresso Tailor Made Suit Hangers from Butler Luxury would be my first choice.

Of course, if you prefer you can also get this hanger with one trouser bar .

What’s Next?  Hopefully a Travel Hanger

One thing that I have yet to find is a lightweight travel hanger that is not bulky and works with multiple suits in 29″ suitcases. Maybe Butler Luxury will come up with a solution for that down the line. Considering what they have achieved so far, I would not be surprised!

What’s your take on clothes hangers?

The other day, I visited the VW Phaeton manufacturing plant in Dresden, Germany. The facility is absolutely beautiful and the cars they assemble there are the VW Phaeton as well as the Bentley Flying Spur. The workmanship of these cars is top notch and they really spent a lot of money to have everything look first class. At the same time, the people they employ wore those cheap square toed shoes that just scream amateur and overall, it made their product look less sophisticated.

The same is true for you. People may think less highly of you simply because you wear ugly shoes. Therefore I created a video about the 4 Biggest Men’s Dress Shoe mistakes and how you can avoid them so you present yourself in the best possible way.

Transcript:

Now that you’ve mastered the three most essential shoes in a man’s shoe closet, it’s really important to avoid certain things.

Square toe monk strap shoe from Harry S. Truman

1. Don’t Wear Square-Toed Shoes

First of all, do not buy square-toed shoes and by square toed shoes, I don’t mean the fine chiseled toes from English shoemakers. I mean these kinds of ugly shoes with rubber soles, big, chunky toe boxes and they simply make you look like a peasant. They’re clunky, they’re not elegant, they’re not stylish and it doesn’t matter if it’s a lace-up shoe or sometimes they come in loafers with like elastic sides. They look horrible and you should avoid them at all cost.

2. Do Not Buy The Same Shoe Twice

The second thing you shouldn’t do is to buy the same shoe twice or the same shoe in a different color. I hear you, you just got a pair of shoes and you really love it. It fits well, it looks good on you, why not buy a second pair you might think.Yu are at the beginning of building your shoe closet and maybe if you already have three pairs of shoes, you can buy a pair of the same shoe but if you are not there yet, what you should do is buy one style at a time because that gives you more versatility and different looks. if you buy a quality shoe, you can wear it long enough that you shouldn’t need a second pair which is exactly the same or just the same style in a different color. What you can do is you can get something on the same last but it being a different shoe and that’s definitely something to consider because if the fit is right, you want to keep that fit but you want to change the look.

Casual Cap Toe Oxford with metal eyelets and rubber sole by Sanders

3. Avoid Rubber Soles

Third don’t is to avoid rubber soles. Dress shoes are dressy and you want to have a leather sole because when you walk it gives that really elegant sound and they may be a little more difficult to maintain but a good leather sole won’t let water in even if it’s raining and if you live in an area where it’s really wet or the winters are long, you can get rubber galoshes to wear on the outside and then take them off when you’re inside.

Pediwear Collection Black Cap Toe Oxford – True Budget Oxford at 109.50 GBP.

4. Stick To The Basics

Four, don’t buy shoes that are too colorful in the beginning or too unusual. Skip the spectators, skip dark green or blue shoes when you’re just starting out. Even though they may be 80% off and on sale and you may like the look, at the end of the day, you’re not going to get a lot of wear out of them and they’re going to stay in your shoe closet and the cost per wear goes up. Invest wisely, take a look at your shoe closet and see what you have. Oxfords or Derbies are always a good start.

If you don’t have the styles I recommend, I really suggest you take a look att them and I promise you, it will help you to create a long lasting versatile wardrobe that is elegant and stylish for the foreseeable future.

If you enjoyed this video, please sign up to our email list and I’ll send you more of these videos right to your inbox and check out our website www gentlemansgazette.com where we have a lot of material all about classic men’s clothing and style.Thank you!

Go To Hell Pants – I love them, my wife abhors them, and for most people; that’s exactly how it is. Either you love them, or you hate them, but in the end, Go To Hell pants are a staple of Ivy style.

“The perfect mix of sensible and outrageous. These pants not only show that you know how to dress well, but that you know how to stand out more than the man next to you. Make a statement, have fun, and if others don’t like it, well, they can just go to hell.” – Brooks Brothers

GTH pants are an equestian event in the summer

When the Wasps of the Northeastern United States decided it was time to forget the Mad Men look of monochromatic suits and white shirts, they didn’t tread lightly. They basically jumped off a cliff. GTH pants became an overnight sensation and initially weren’t so much a way to showcase personal style, but more so a way to tell the older generation of gray suits and Oxford shoes to go to hell.

Now, funny enough, despite the New Yorkers introducing the style in the mid-1950s, it was actually done so in Florida where most of the affluent Northeast families spent the winter. Slowly, the trend grew from bright yellow, green and red trousers to ones with bold and intrepid patterns on them. Like the proverbial game of chicken, Wasps would try and out-do their friends by pushing boundaries to see who could wear the loudest pants of all.

Yellow trousers with bright red lobsters, blue slacks with neon green frogs, or brazen patterns with the most colorful palette one could imagine. Surprisingly, the trend became almost instantly popular with the young preppy crowd. They figured out ways to wear these outlandish pants without looking like they got dressed in the dark. It was an unusual look, that’s for sure, but it was one that rocked societies views on what type of clothing made a distinguished young gentleman. Pretty soon, the Go To Hell pants were an integral part of menswear and even became somewhat appropriate to wear at the office.

By the 1960s, it was difficult to attend any summer garden or cocktail party without seeing at least one man in GTH pants. Heck, even JFK wore them golfing and managed to attract quite a following for it when photos were leaked to the press. His yellow shorts with red sails influenced golfers across the country to dress bolder, and the tradition caught on as they toured across the United States, and observers began to copy this outlandish style statement.

Today, things have changed slightly. While, still famous in some circles, the style of wearing GTH pants or shorts has dwindled and only the most sartorially brave dare to wear these pants in public. I am proud to say I am one of them.

Classic Madras GTH Pants

What Exactly Are GTH Pants?

Technically, any boldly colored pair of trousers, with or without a pattern or motif is considered Go To Hell pants. That includes patterns like madras or pink seersucker.

Initially, the trend began with solid colors before moving into motifs like sailboats, animals, and other icons. These solid trousers are still very popular today but have moved from the chinos and corduroys into a snug fit denim for both men and women. However, the traditional GTH pants are still the classics and are unmistakable due to the vibrancy of their colors, the wider cut and the quality of the pants. One can easily distinguish a pair of Nantucket Reds from Murray’s Toggery Shop or a pair of yellow chinos from Brooks Brothers from the vile, bargain bin trash produced by major retailers like Walmart or Old Navy. Wash the pants just once and you’ll see the difference in quality.

GTH pants where they were meant to be worn

As bright colors wore out, and men continued to try and show each other up, motifs and patterns started to emerge on the pants which brought an entirely new and more audacious style to the forefront of GTH apparel. It’s these pants that tend to be the most popular with the crowd that wears them and the bolder and more outlandish the motif, the better.

As style continued to change, and men went back to the more classic approach of wearing gray suits and slim ties, so did the GTH pants. Today, so long as the pants feature some icon or pattern that distinguishes them from an ordinary pair of trousers, they can still be considered Go To Hell pants. In fact, Brooks Brothers sells a pair called their “holiday” pants that are everyday hunter green corduroys, but with their yellow embroidered Golden Fleece logo wearing red Santa hats throughout. Far less eccentric than a pair of highlighter yellow chinos with red crabs all over them, these pants are designed as a way to fit into a more formal atmosphere while still being able to say I’m a rebel.

How To Wear GTH Pants

This is where most men fail and fail miserably they do. Just because you can buy a pair of GTH pants and put them on one leg at a time, doesn’t mean you should. There is a fine line between looking like a stylish gentleman and looking like a drunk clown.

Pairing Go To Hell pants with an equally loud shirt is a sure-fire way to get locked up in a padded room for evaluation. The goal is for people to compliment your style and admire it, not grab their children and cross to the other side of the street.

Nantucket Red Go To Hell Pants with Whales

Tone Down The Rest Of Your Outfit

That might sound like an oxymoron, but there is a way to downplay your attire while remaining sartorially adventurous. Stick with classic oxford shirts or a pale polo shirt, add a solid navy jackets and avoid spectator shoes and go with a pair of plain oxfords, derbies or brogues.

Go with accessories that are muted rather than bold like your pants. Sure, you may get away wearing more brazen clothing if you’re successful at color coordination, but more often than not you will end up just looking ridiculous.

Focus on Classic Staples

A pair of navy blue Sperry Topsiders, driving moccasins in brown leather or suede or white bucks can easily divert the attention back to the pants and show the world you are a sophisticated chap.

Choose a belt that’s not as bold, stick with a classic dress watch and go for black Wayfarers over a bright green. When you’re wearing GTH pants, they should be the most daring part of your outfit, not muted by equally outlandish accessories. Yes, that also means opting to leave the anchor bracelet at home.

Vintage GTH pants look

Dressing It Up

Once you’ve worn these bold GTH pants for awhile or are comfortable adding more to the look, begin incorporating less conservative accessories with the pants. Start small with a colorful anchor bracelet and move into D-ring Belts, bright bow ties, ascots and rowing blazers. Do it as a process instead of jumping right in. Eventually, you’ll find a groove.

Showing Your (Life) Style

Designed with the prep in mind, the best piece of advice I can offer is to showcase your lifestyle. Wearing Nantucket Reds is a sure way to let others know you breathe the ocean air. Ones with sailboats, ship wheels, crabs or lobster show a nautical flair. Dogs, kittens, and other cuddly animals let people know you’re a pet, lover. There is no limit to the motifs you can find on a pair of GTH pants. It’s worth looking around until you find pairs that suit you. After all, that’s what these pants are all about.

ClasShort and skinny GTH pants

What to Look for in GTH Pants

There are few things you’ll want to look for when buying Go To Hell pants.

Embroidery is Your Friend

Avoid anything printed like the plague. If there’s a motif on your pants, it should be embroidered. There is no substitute. Anything else will either wear out, fade or peel. This is why it’s so important to focus on buying from reputable brands rather than trying to skimp and buying cheaply from big box stores.

Natural Fabrics Are Best

Surprisingly, they do make GTH pants in polyester blends. I know, it’s a travesty! Go to Hell pants should feel good on your skin and last, so breathable, natural fabrics will always serve you well. Whether it’s corduroys or chinos, they should be made from 100% cotton and nothing else.

A perfectly paired pair of GTH pants

Corduroys or Chinos

Bright denim jeans are for the emo kids you find lurking through the mall on a Monday afternoon. Chinos and cords are for the dapper dandy strolling through the farmers market on a Sunday morning.

Slim Fit

Lately, slim fit pants have become very popular, especially with younger men.

GTH pants can look good if they have a trim fit, but it really depends on your legs. Try to opt for a neat fit but if you have big thighs, slim pants will make you look like a carrot.

Go for the same fit you would target with any other pair of chinos or cords, GTH pants are no exception. Make sure they fit well and visit the tailor as soon as you buy them. No clothing will ever fit you perfectly right off the rack, and even though most men will buy them ready to wear, you can get them custom made. The tricky part is always to find the right fabric.

Skinny denim jeans are not classic GTH pants

These Are Casual Pants

Is there any reason for me to explain this? Do not wear these pants with a tuxedo, don’t pair them with a suit jacket for work at the law firm and unless your sister is getting married at Chuck E. Cheese’s, don’t wear them to the wedding.

These are casual pants and while they work well at casual summer parties and events, they are not intended for anything formal. If you do want to wear them at work, make sure they’re appropriate for your job. Offering customer support at a call center is fine. If you’re auditing a Fortune 500 company, you might want to consider different options.

Stick with Classic Brands

There are more brands that make Go To Hell pants that I would avoid then ones I would recommend. Stick with the big players in the ivy league: Brooks Brothers, J. Press, Murray’s Toggery Shop, or any of the other classic or contemporary brands that focus exclusively on preppy culture and style.

Conclusion

There is such a wide variety of GTH pants for sale and for the most part, so long as the quality and craftsmanship is there, you just can’t go wrong with whatever style you choose. The biggest thing is pairing them properly with your outfit and being confident while you wear them. Do you wear GTH pants? What’s your favorite brand?

The Half Windsor Knot is one of the most popular tie knots out there. Interestingly, some men confuse the Half Windsor with Windsor knot, and they refer to the real Windsor knot as Double Windsor, but that terminology is more confusing than it helps. Moreover, most men chose the wrong collar or tie for this kind of knot making them look like an amateur.

In today’s video guide, I show you:

1. How to properly tie a Half Windsor knot
2. What ties work & DO NOT work with this knot
3. What shirt collars look best with this knot

So you look your best.

Please share and like the video if you enjoy it and leave a comment, thanks!

Transcript:

Welcome back to our series on How to tie ties! Today, I’m going to show you how to tie the Half Windsor Knot.

What is the Half Windsor Knot?

First of all, the term Half Windsor is somewhat off because it doesn’t have anything to do with the regular Windsor knot. In terms of size, it’s about halfway between the Four in Hand knot and the Full Windsor knot but about 75% size of a full Windsor knot so it’s not even half the size of the Windsor knot.

As you can see, I’m wearing the Half Windsor knot here right now with a green linen wool blend tie from Fort Belvedere, which is on the thinner side. It is a symmetrical knot, and I included a dimple. It’s also slightly smaller than the Full Windsor knot with the same tie. Okay, here’s how you tie it.

Half Windsor Knot with Thin Tie by Fort Belvedere

How To Tie The Half Windsor Knot

To start, you have the slim end in your right hand and the wide end in your left hand. The slim end should be about a hand and a half above your waistband, the wide end goes to the right, over the slim end and back to the side it was originally at. Now you take this end, bring the tie up and go through this hole, and you go to the opposite side, so you have it back onto your right.

Then bring it back over to the left and front, pull it down and then up, you can see the knot is forming. Now the wide end goes through the knot and if you want a dimple, now’s the time to pinch. See, knot’s forming, so if you like it pull at the slim end, pull it up and make sure it’s the way you like it and pull down here underneath the knot and pinch here, form the knot you like and then pull it up. Voila! The Half Windsor knot.

Side view with thick silk tie by Fort Belvedere

Style Tips For The Half Windsor Knot

At the size of this tie knot, you obviously do not want to wear it with a tab collar or any collar bars and pins. I would recommend you wear a cutaway collar, spread collar, maybe medium spread only if you have a thin tie. If you have a thick tie, the half Windsor can be rather daring, it’s not going to be as big as the full Windsor knot with a thick tie but here’s what it looks like. Voila, the Half Windsor knot with a thick tie. As you can see. This is a really thick silk jacquard tie from Fort Belvedere, and the knot is almost bigger than a full Windsor with a thinner tie.

Half Windsor Knot with thick navy striped tie by Fort Belvedere

Half Windsor Knot For Short Men: Get The Right Tie

So if you have a thicker tie, and you like the look of the Windsor knot, go down the Half Windsor to just balance the size of the knot with the thickness of the tie. It seems like the half-Windsor knot is often favored by shorter men desperately trying to create a big, knot, so the tie ends up shorter. Now this is not the best way to do it because shorter men often have smaller heads, and so a bigger tie knot looks not proportional and it looks awkward.

If you’re short what you should do is get a short tie so you can tie a smaller knot that suits you, your height and suits your body and simply looks much better on you. If you want a shorter tie, please check out our selection at Fort Belvedere where we offer every tie in short, regular, and long, so you always look your best no matter your height.

Thanks and stay tuned for more videos on how to tie knots and other things related to men’s clothing.

When we discuss Gentlemen of Style, typically we’re talking about real life men such as Clark Gable, Fred Astaire, Humphrey Bogart or JFK. Rarely does a fictional character come into play who has amassed such a wealth of attention for his clothes style and slicked hair.

Of course, we have a handful of fictional men who we often speak of, like Don Draper (Mad Men), James Bond, Hercule Poirot or Enoch “Nucky” Thompson (Boardwalk Empire). While we often leave these kinds of articles to likes of GQ and Esquire, we’ve opted to turn our attention to one of the modern stallions on TV who real men aspire to dress like.

In this article, we’re going to discuss the hair and suits of Harvey Specter, the protagonist in USA Network’s hit television show Suits, portrayed by Gabriel Macht.

Suits – Gabriel Macht and Patrick J Adams

Suits

First premiering back in June 2011, Suits has gained some critical acclaim for the USA Network since it first aired. Filmed in Toronto, Canada, it is just entering its fifth season focused on the same characters that we’ve known from the beginning.

Taking place at a top New York law firm, Suits centers around New York’s most infamous closer; Harvey Specter. The quintessential shark with a heart, Specter is forced to hire an associate and in doing so, runs across a young law prodigy named Mike Ross, who doesn’t actually have a degree. Seeing the immense talent in this troubled young man, he offers him an associate position at the firm on the grounds no one can find out the truth about his lack of credentials.

Throughout the show, most episodes focus on the relationships between the lawyers at the firm and the seemingly impossible cases they work on. Love affairs intertwine and relationships forge and dwindle, but throughout it all, a core team of top-notch lawyers stick together through thick and thin. As Mike’s secret threatens to damage the firm and throw both Mike and his mentor Harvey out of practice, deals are struck and lies are told to cover up one of New York’s dirtiest little secrets and one secret, that helps close some of the biggest corporate and criminal cases they Big Apple has ever seen.

Harvey Specter

Played by the dashing Gabriel Macht, Harvey Reginald Specter is New York’s toughest closer. Given the cases no one else can seem to solve, he represents some of the top companies and athletes in New York and abroad. A sarcastic, assertive and somewhat phlegmatic man, he opts to settle cases when he can before they hit the courtroom. Chronically single, he’s the epitome of a ladies man, seemingly able to attract the most beautiful women without having to say much of anything.

He lives a very isolated life outside the office. A graduate of Harvard Law, Specter really only engages in personal banter with people in his sphere of influence. The romantic relationships he does partake in are brief, and even the few where he shows a desire for longevity, are met with speculation of whether he can overcome his past and personal struggles to really love and commit to someone else.

Fine pinstripe suit with navy grenadine tie

Despite appearing on the surface as an uncaring and selfish litigator, Specter shows a deeper side, often running to the aid of those close to him. He is secretly a man of impenetrable ethics who follows a moral compass making him a force to be reckoned with for those who attempt to cause harm to someone he cares about. Despite his womanizing, he has no patience for adulterers and makes that clear on many occasions throughout the show. Emotionally distant, he is a man of confidence and charisma and one who everyone still manages to like and respect. He’ll do anything to win. So long as it doesn’t involve breaking the law or altering the truth.

Harvey Specter’s Style

Harvey Specter’s life is work, and his style is a reflection of his very specific style needs. Law has always been a conservative fashion environment, and Harvey tries to play very closely to those rules, even though the suits are obviously targetted to a younger audience. This may suprise you, given that Harvey’s sidekick dresses in an even more youthful way, with narrow lapels, short jackets and skinny ties, but let me explain.

Known for his single-breasted, made-to-measure suits with peaked lapels, big-collared shirts and windsor-knotted power ties, Harvey Specter exudes confidence through his wardrobe, at least. In fact, he wears it like armor; it’s part of his personality and that’s the reason he lacks the elegance of other Gentlemen of Style.

Harvey Specter

From the beginning of the show, he regularly tells his protege that it’s time to dress like a man. When he shows up wearing an ill-fitting and inexpensive suit, Harvey sends Mike to his tailor and instructs him not to come back until he has bought new suits.

Throughout all of the episodes, there are few times where Harvey appears in anything besides a suit or tuxedo. On those odd occasions, they are still well-fitting casual trousers or jeans with a t-shirt or a sweater. Otherwise, he is always in a suit, and, for the most part, they’re all of similar design.

How To Dress Like Harvey Specter

Harvey Specter has a few style staples that seem to be incorporated into all of his outfits.

Suit

First of all, you need a suit or better, a number of dark suits. But as always, the devil is in the details.

1. Material

In the early seasons Spector’s suits were mostly made of dark high twisted worsted wool fabrics, whereas more recently you can see silk-wool blends that add a certain shine and lustre to the fabric which make them more unusual than just regular plain wool cloth suits. Traditionally, silk is usually used in evening environments because of its shine and formal character, but done right it can even look stunning in a dark navy or blue.

Better for Specter_ Unusual striped shirt and patterned tie

2. Pattern

In regard to patterns, stick to the classic business palette of solids, sharkskin, prince of wales checks and stripes. Avoid tweeds, flannels or bold windowpane. Interestingly, he avoids pin stripes and opts for wider rope stripes. The costume designers probably wanted to differentiate the SUITS look from the Power Look in Wall Street.

suits 2

3. Peak Lapels

Harvey Specter is a big fan of peak lapels, and so is Tom Ford. Even though the lapels may seem quite wide for contemporary standards, they are not overly wide relative to past standards.. The key is to get the gorge of the lapel not too high and not too low. If it peaks out over your shoulders, it is too much, and if it is too low it looks too old school to be a Harvey Specter lapel, so definitely keep an eye on that.

Traditionally, peaked lapels are always more formal than notched ones and they provide the wearer with an elevated, elegant look that Specter clearly goes for.

Interestingly, Ross wears notched lapels not peaked ones and that’s not a coincidence. Much rather, the peaked lapels separate Specter from all the boys below him, and elevate him to a higher level. As you can see, little details such as the lapel choice can exude a clear hierarchy. Therefore, Harvey rarely appears in a suit with a notched lapel (an occasional three-piece with a notched lapel maintains the formality level) and if you want to emulate his style you should opt for peaked lapels too.

4. Milanese Buttonhole

Early on, Tom Ford had his line tailored by Zegna and to elevate his jackets from them he utilized the Milanese buttonhole, which is a finely stitched, raised buttonhole made of silk thread that is generally only found on bespoke jackets. Not many people used to be able to do it but today, more and more tailors offer it. For example, mytailor does a very nice job with it. For a true Harvey Specter style you really need a Milanese buttonhole because it separates you from the rest.

Monochromatic three piece suit

5. Flapped Pockets

Traditionally, peaked lapel jackets were often paired with jetted pockets rather than flapped ones. You can learn all about the difference here. Harvey Specter wears rather large flap pockets with his peaked lapel suits, which is also something you often see on Tom Ford suits. I am not sure whether the costume designers wanted to send a certain message with that, though chances are they did not pay much attention to it.

Personally, I think jetted pockets will look better with peaked lapels 9 out of 10 times, but if you want the Specter look, you need flap pockets as well as a flapped ticket pocket on the right.

6. Side Vents

Just like 95% of all men, Specter wears side vents and so should you. Center vents are only meant for horse-back riding and ventless only looks good if you don’t have to sit down.

7. Vests

Often, Harvey Specter is seen wearing a three-piece suit, which is classic but yet another tactic employed to create the illusion of confidence. While true Gentlemen of Style would mix things up and wear an odd vest at times, Harvey Specter sticks to his uniform and only wears matching vests.

The vests are always single breasted, never double breasted and they never feature a lapel. They are are always tailored with a V-cut, which is the most boring vest shape you can find. Even the cheapest MTM makers will able to provide you with a vest like this. On the other hand, men with style usually avoid this kind of vest, because it is just average.

Three piece suit

At least Spector adheres to the etiquette of leaving the bottom button of his waistcoat undone. At the same time, he seems to be wearing side adjusters with his pants and skips the belt, which is the proper way to do it. Traditionally, vests should only be worn with suspenders or side adjusters or both because it looks neater than with a belt.

As a side note it should be mentioned that  Specter never leaves the office without his jacket, but he can often be seen relaxing in his office or home with just the vest on.

Harvey Specter Standard Uniform

8. Pants

Overall, Specter wears slim fit suits and so it doesn’t come as a surprise that they aren’t pleated. He wears them instead with an ironed crease. His pants are tailored slim but never tight, and he prefers a plain hem over cuffs or turn-ups.

SUITS — Season: 2 — Pictured: Gabriel Macht as Harvey Specter — Photo by: Robert Ascroft/USA Network

9. Fit

If you want to dress like Harvey Specter, you should opt for high armholes, and a rather slim cut overall. However, there are a couple areas I’m sure you can do better with, such as avoiding a gapping collar or ill-fitting sleeves. A proper tailor will be able to give you a suit with a close-fitting neck and nicely hanging sleeves without wrinkles.

At the end of the day, I suggest you copy what you like and incorporate it into your own style, rather than imitating his whole look. Harvey Specter’s look is not very creative in scope, and there is no reason to stick to exactly his example unless you too must adhere to the firm’s dress code.

USA CORPORATE — “USA Network Upfront 2013 Talent Portraits” — Pictured: (l-r) Patrick J. Adams and Gabriel Macht from Suits — (Photo by: Jill Greenberg/USA Network)

The Tailor of Harvey Specter

Supposedly, Specter wore Tom Ford Suits as well as Garrison but ultimately it is not clear whether those are the only brands who supplied clothes to the actor. At the end of the day, it should not matter, because with the right pictures, any decent tailor or MTM company should be able to recreate the look of his suits.

The dangers of thin fabric_ extreme sleeve wrinkles

Shirts

A big fan of the tall, Italian collars you will never seen him with super wide-spread or super narrow collars.

Harvey usually sticks with a standard white or pale blue shirt with barrel cuffs even though he sometimes wear French cuffs as well.

At times, he has been seen in patterned shirts such as gingham and pinstripe, but throughout most of the seasons, he tends to opt for the solid shirt. All of his shirts seem to be rather well fitting and whether it’s due to pinning them or they’re altered for Gabriel Macht’s body is unknown. However, they rarely show any signs of tugging, are never loose, but also never too tight. His sleeves hang to the base of the wrist, and his jacket sleeves usually show just a scant edge of cuff.

Fine pinstripe suit with navy grenadine tie

Ties

Harvey, in all cases, wears silk ties, never wool or any blends. The navy grenadine tie is one of his staples but he sometimes also wears these cheap looking shiny jacquard ties you can find for $3 from China.

His ties are never slim, and about 8-9cm in width, which is both classic and timeless.

His ties are always finished in a very bold windsor knot and far too big for his shirt collar. Ideally, a shirt collar should be paired with a knot that doesn’t create an overlap between the two. Watch our How To Tie A Tie Knot Videos to understand how.

Harvey’s consistent choice of a windsor knot with a large collar makes his necktie area look crowded, and the knot too large in proportion with his head. Furthermore, his ties are often knotted without a dimple, which makes them look limp and flat.

Suits group image

Shoes

Harvey’s shoe style is very simple, and that’s no surprise since shoes are often a costume designer’s weak point in TV and film – they simply aren’t that visible. Harvey usually wears simple black cap-toed derbies or brown full-brogue oxfords on lasts that aren’t all that refined. Take a look at the following image. The costume designer didn’t lace this shoe properly. Learn here how to properly lace oxfords.

As you know from the real world and your own wardrobe, shoes are hugely important detail, and Harvey’s lack of well-crafted shoes is a negative blow to his carefully constructed appearance.

Overwhelming tie knot throws off proportions

He’d be much better off choosing a smaller knot, such as a half windsor or an oriental, and always including a dimple for more dimension.

The ties, like his other accessories, are very subtle. He wears a lot of dark ties in blacks, blues and even purples, but unfortunately, his combinations are often too monochromatic. His frequent choice of a gray suit with a black tie offers little in the way of contrast and interest. Black ties are suited for funerals and little else.

With a tuxedo, he wears a black self-tie bow tie, which is the proper way to do it.

Accessories

Harvey wears very few accessories. Typically, if he is wearing a pocket square, it’s a classic white or gray and in a TV fold (learn how to fold a pocket square this way here). There really is very little sprezzatura to his outfits. As far as accessories go, they tend to really work with the rest of his wardrobe and his corporate look.

The show has really gone all out when it comes to Harvey’s style and that continues into the finer details. Harvey’s watch of choice is none other than a Patek Philippe 5004P Chronograph, which retails for around $350,000. Clearly it’s Harvey’s biggest statement of his success.

Aside from a pocket square and watch, Harvey really only wears cufflinks and those, like everything else, are usually very subtle and yet, somehow bold. They are never fashion statements, almost always standard metal without decoration or embellishment, but they’re also never a simple knot or anything too small that it would go unnoticed.

Harvey Specter’s Hair

Many people asked us to write about Harvey Specter’s hair. What initially began as a very Don Draperish style cut with a shaved part and glossy sheen has moved towards a more contemporary faux hawk in some episodes with a matte finish and imperfect sideburns.

Granted, his hair is never sloppy and he’s always clean shaven, the network has obviously tried to give him a more casual hairstyle in the latest seasons. If you’re looking for his classic look from the first seasons, here is how to get it:

Early Classic Look

To Cut It

Tell your stylist you want the back and sides short with a little growth on top to sweep it back and to the side. If they use a trimmer, ask for a #2 cut with squared off side burns and a square neckline. You also want to ask them to shave the part and to comb the hair to the side.

To Maintain It

After your shower, make sure you towel dry your hair well. Apply a small amount of gel to your hair and work it in. Dry it with a hair dryer. Then, apply some Murray’s Pomade to your hair and comb it into position. Finish with finishing spray if needed.

Later Contemporary Faux Hawk

To Cut It

All you need to do is ask your stylist for a board room appropriate faux hawk. Any stylist worth their salt should be able to do this. That or bring a picture with to show them.

To Maintain It

After drying the hair, apply some fiber or molding paste to your hair and work it in. The sides and back should already be short enough you won’t have to do anything so work the top into the position you like. It’s just that simple.

Conclusion

Harvey Specter is more about confidence than he is about details and style. Like his winner-takes-all personality, clothes are a way for him to get ahead rather than something he enjoys. While he’s an interesting example of a very particular aesthetic, there are so many more things to enjoy about dressing well than just what Harvey wears. If you haven’t already watched the show, you can tune in to season 5 on the USA Network on Wednesdays at 9/8c. Or, check them out on amazon.

This article was written by Sven Raphael Schneider and J.A. Shapira.

Although it is still warm outside, fall will come soon and with it the opportunity to wear boots. In the past we already covered a number of different boots but we received many questions about what boots to wear when you just start your collection, so here you go: My recommend 2 Must Have Boots For Every Man’s Wardrobe

Transcript:

Now that you’ve mastered the three most essential shoes in a man’s shoe closet, you may want to expand it to boots.

We now live in an era where it really depends on what you do, the next shoe purchase I would make is a pair of Chukka boots. They are also known as desert boots and they’re made out of suede and it’s really cool because it adds a different texture to your existing three shoes and you can wear it casually or with a suit. I really like them in a mid-brown color however you should make sure to get a color that is different from what you already have simply to increase versatility and the looks of your outfits will change that way. A good alternative to Chukka boots is a bit more formal and great for city wear is called the Chelsea boot. Basically, the Chelsea boot is like a shoe, it’s an ankle boot, it’s a little higher, good for fall and winter and it has an insert that is flexible on the sides so you can just slip in like with a loafer. You can wear it with suits too and sometimes they come with really colorful inserts on the side, in red, green or blue. While it adds character, it also makes the shoe less versatile so if you are just starting out and it’s your fourth shoe, maybe get a tone and tone insert. In terms for colors of a Chelsea boot, I recommend you either get like black or dark chocolate brown or something in the brown family simply so you can wear it with all your outfits and you don’t stand out. If you want to know more about Chelsea boots, which boots I recommend and in different price ranges, please check out our guide.

If you enjoyed this video, please sign up to our email list and I’ll send you more of these videos right to your inbox and check out our website, www.gentlemansgazette.com where we have a lot of materials all about classic men’s clothing and style. Thank you!

The Victoria is one of those tie knots that is often favored by men who prefer a non-chalent look and who want to add an element of casual sprezzatura to their outfit. In today’s video, I explain how to tie the knot, what shirt collar to wear it with and what you should avoid so you look dapper.

Transcript

Welcome back to our series on how to tie tie knots! Today, I’m going to show you how to tie the Victoria knot.

The Victoria knot is to the Four in Hand knot what the Kelvin knot is to the Oriental. In more simple terms, the Victoria knot is a simple four in hand just looped around once more. This tie knot is often favorited by rakish men who really want to add a much bigger knot. Sometimes you’d also see both layers of the loops, just to create a little more relaxed, casual look. Although similar to the Kelvin in the sense that it’s looped around once more, it’s bigger than the Kelvin simply because you have half a loop more of it.

Today, I’m wearing a really thick jacquard silk tie by Fort Belvedere, which even adds to the size of this knot. The more you loop something around, and the bigger your knot gets, the shorter your tie gets overall. If you use the same tie, and you tie an Oriental knot, you can wear it with a low rise pair of pants or if you make a bigger knot like the Victoria, you should wear it with a higher rise pants.

So without further ado here is how you tie the Victoria Knot. Begin with the blade side up, seam side down. Slim end is on your right, wide end on your left. The slim end should be much shorter and about one and a half hands up from your waistband on the trousers you’re wearing. Now, wide end over the slim end, pinch with the left hand, loop around.

Now you have it in the front, you have to do it once again, loop it around once more. Now the wide end goes through the hole, up and pull it tight then down through the knot. I only pushed it through the top layer of the knot. If you want a dimple now, just pinch it slightly up here and pull it through gently. Once you’re happy with the look, pull it up.

Now adjust the collar, you don’t want any wrinkles on either side and when you pull, sometimes the knot shifts to one side so always make sure to adjust it. Voila! The Victoria Knot. Because of its size, this type is not suited to classic collars. I would say have at least a medium spread collar or better, a more wide spread collar like the one I’m wearing right now. I think this is ideal.

If you want to wear a collar pin, a collar bar this is not the knot for you simply too big. Instead, go with the Oriental or the Four in Hand. I’ll show you how to tie those here. Once you tie a tie with bigger knots like this, the tie gets automatically shorter so if you’re a shorter guy, you may want that however if you’re a taller guy and the tie looks too shorts, it’s not proportion anymore, and it looks bad. So what you should do then is get a tie that is extra long to accommodate your height. Fort Belvedere offers ties in three lengths, short, regular, and long so every man can wear the knot he likes and get the right length. If you enjoyed this video, and you want to learn more about how to dress, please sign up and these videos will come right to your inbox. Thanks!

No doubt, by now you’ve read our in-depth Preppy Style Guide and primer on Ivy Style. In the final part of this series, we’re going to delve into a less commonly known variation of Northeastern American style known as Trad.

Trad is arguably the most classic and refined version of Northeastern college attire. Short for ‘traditional’, it’s a very contemporary take on classic menswear dating back to the roaring twenties when men seemingly took the most pride in their public attire. However, like preppy and Ivy styles, trad was born out of a need to rebel against the classic business suit as a way for students to develop their own independent personality while blending it with the attire their father thought to be appropriate for study at Harvard or Yale.

Trad Style at School

Perhaps a brilliant imitation of the more dapper gents attending Oxford or Cambridge, trad style became a way for young men who were uncomfortable in the casualness of polo shirts and boat shoes to still maintain some mutinous behavior without utterly offending the more conservative dandies of the upper echelons of society.

A prime example of classic trad style from a magazine

The Difference Between Trad and Ivy Style

If we consider that Ivy style is a more traditional approach to prepdom, we can easily say that Trad is a more sensible approach to classic menswear with a slightly contemporary and freeing approach that the preppies adopted their style around. The entire purpose of trad is to maintain a conservative approach to style without appearing dated. For those attending the Ivy League schools of Boston and New York this meant donning a more formal version of the navy blazer, often adorned with a small crest on the breast and paired with standard white dress shirts over button-downs with a repp or solid tie. For a more casual event while Ivy style might require a school sweater, the more traditional man would opt for a more formal sweater such as a v-neck, vest or turtleneck that would be partially covered by a jacket. Granted this was most popular back in the 1960s and 70s, when the bulky turtleneck was a style staple.

A little waspy with traditional style from Time

Today for the more dapper trad it might mean an odd vest under a tweed jacket with a bow tie. A very safe and less provocative style for the American man, the trad style grew from the popularity of ivy and prep styles as many of the more conservative students were simply not permitted to leave home in casual wear to attend functions or school. Similar to how many fathers today wouldn’t allow their daughter out of the house in a tube top or miniskirt, the traditional father of the 1950s wouldn’t permit his son to step foot in his alma-mater with anything less than a jacket and tie. Trad became that very safe alternative that still managed to allow young men the ability to express themselves and fit in with their peers who dressed far more contemporary.

A perfectly dressed trad man is the young man who can leave his home dressed to rebel his father but still looks charming enough that dad doesn’t notice anything is wrong.

How to Select Trad Clothing

The biggest tip if you’re looking to achieve the classic trad appearance is to simply try to dress conservatively with a bit of nonchalance.

Focus on traditional style staples like the navy blazer, the three-piece suit, and the cardigan sweater but stretch the bounds by choosing less common fabrics, selecting tweeds or opting for check suits over solid. Forget the matching vest of the three-piece suit and add an odd vest to your outfit. Forget the classic ties and instead opt for interesting tie patterns and textures. Choose less common knots for your tie such as the Oriental, Victoria or Kelvin knot and allow your lack of uniformity to shine in a way that people notice but can’t figure out how you achieved it.

The goal is always self-expression and like Ivy style it’s about rebelling against the rules of classic fashion. Oxfords are always a great shoe for business attire but rather than the standard black leather try pairing a suede Oxford with your suit instead. Simple changes such as colorful shoelaces over black can even alter your appearance and work to harmonize an outfit by matching it to your tie or suspenders.

David Wilder of the renowned Ivy clothier J.Press once explained trad style by saying “Imagine your best-dressed uncle throwing open his closet for you to frolic around in.”

Examples of Classic Trad Style

Suits are worn most of the time by trads whereas Ivy Leaguers and preps would often focus on blazers. While the preps would often fold up their pants the more conservative trad would never get out of the house before his father would say “roll those pants back down.” To mitigate this risk of embarrassment, the trad would cuff his pant leg. A perfect compromise between the standard uncuffed pant and the rolled look their preppy friend managed to get away with. It gave a sense of relief, albeit a small breakthrough from the stifling conservative traditions of a bygone era, it was still a way to minimally – yet appropriately – express oneself.

Trad style from Princeton

Casual shoes are a staple in Ivy style. Preppies love their boat shoes; Ivy guys swear by the penny loafer, but neither of those shoes did the conservative parent believe was appropriate to wear out.

That’s where the white buck came into play. It offered a traditional approach to a modern era. It was just fashionable enough that Dad might do a second take as you walked out the door, but he probably wouldn’t be able to place exactly what was off with the outfit. Even if he did think it was inappropriate, he would probably have a difficult time arguing why. So long as you were wearing it casually and not with formalwear, you got away with it.

A casually trad outfit

Just like a miniskirt on the girl, the goal for the prep was to show off just a bit. Bright colors, slim-fit shirts and shorts that showed some leg, the preppies got away with a lot. They were the hooligans of Harvard at the time, and the style grew in popularity. Trad style followers would never dare show off their bodies that way. Slim fit shirts were a no-no, shorts were only acceptable while sailing and bright colors were left on the shelf at Brooks Brothers and J.Press. For the trad man, it was all about natural fitting clothing that covered the body. Leg hair didn’t show, abdominal muscles didn’t peek through the shirt and navy was considered a color unless it was on the tie. If that was the case, standard collegiate colors were acceptable. Showing off was something left for the preppies but it didn’t mean you couldn’t carefully showcase some style.

Perfectly trad with a little prep in his step

Today bright shoelaces, socks and pocket squares are widely accepted. However, back in the day where Dad put on a suit just to check the mail or get a haircut, men had to be far more careful. This meant using brighter colors for hidden accessories such as your key fob or a handkerchief. If you were a real rebel you might throw on a crocodile or lizard grain belt over the standard leather. It was just your way to show off a bit without an authority figure noticing.

Conclusion

Unlike prep and Ivy styles, trad is no longer as known or popular as it once was. Today, society has become far more lenient and men are more free than ever to adopt a more colorful palette of expression. In fact, if the average person saw someone wearing the standard trad outfit today, they would probably think they were very classically attired and its subtlety would be lost. Nevertheless, it’s still important for the sartorially-savvy man to be familiar with the style as there remains a small contingent of men that follow the trad style rules.

How do you quietly rebel against classic menswear? Do you have any unique ways of expressing your style without making it noticeable?