In the past few weeks, we introduced you to our How To Tie A Tie Video Tutorials. Today, we would like to end this series with the Nicky tie knot. It’s a fuller, asymmetrical knot that works well with wider collars.

In case you missed any of the previous videos, you can find all of them here:

1. How To Tie The Oriental Knot
2. How To Tie The Four In Hand Knot
3. How To Tie The Kelvin Knot
4. How To Tie The Pratt a.k.a. Shelby Knot
5. How To Tie The Windsor Knot
6. How To Tie The Half-Windsor Knot
7. How To Tie The Victoria Knot

Transcript – How To Tie The Nicky Knot

Welcome back for another installment on How to tie Ties. In this video, I’m going to show you how to tie the Nicky Knot.

Basically, the Nicky is a Four in hand or a Victoria knot on steroids. It’s just simply bigger but slightly asymmetrical unlike the Windsor or Half Windsor knot. Its name is derived from the middle east tie maker, Nicky and it was actually invented by their salesman Ernesto Curami who just came up with this knot. This has been rather popular in Italy but outside of Italy, it never really made its mark. In terms of size, the Nicky knot is between a Four in hand and a Half Windsor, so the Nicky is right here. So basically in a grander scheme of things, you have the full Windsors, very big, Half Windsor and then the Nicky and the Four in hand. As you can see in this example, it’s still a big knot because I used a very thick silk tie by Fort Belvedere. If you use a thinner tie, it will be a smaller knot.

Here is how you tie it: You want to start seam side up on both ends and you want to have the shorter end, the slimmer end on your right hand and the wider end on your left hand. The Slim end should be about a hand and a half above your waistband. The slimmer end goes on top of the wide end then you bring up the wide end, pull it up, pull down and then you pull it to the other side. Now, we bring back the wide end back over and back up. If you have a little wrinkle, make sure you get rid of that.

Now, pull it up tight and you bring the front shell of the tie back through the knot like so, hold it in place and pull through. If it falls over, make sure it unfolds. Pull, put in a little pinch if you want a dimple and if you like it in place, pull the slimmer end up and wiggle until you like it. Now it’s time to adjust the knot until I like the entire look of it, move it around and there you go. Voila! The Nicky knot.

The Nicky knot works with a thin tie, a medium thick tie and a thick tie like this yellow jacquard silk one from Fort Belvedere. In terms of collar choices, this type of knot is best with a medium spread to slightly cutaway collar. It’s not ideal with a really wide spread collar like this one because you can see the tie ends on the side which you should avoid. A classic collar may also not be ideal because the collar is much narrower and it may overlap with the knot. So ideally, go with the medium spread to slightly spread shirt collar and you’ll be fine no matter you have a thin or a thick fabric. Obviously it’s a big knot so don’t wear it with tab collars, collar pins or bars because it simply won’t work. If you want to wear a collar pin or a tab collar, go with the Oriental or the Four in Hand knot.

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NBC’s hit television show Hannibal has been canceled, and for its fans, this is a travesty.

In the world where television is broadly a megaphone for stupidity, it’s not surprising that Hannibal hasn’t been well received by the masses. A friend of mine once said it’s a ‘complex show with a challenging plot and dialog’ to which another responded with ‘challenging plots and dialogs don’t fare well considering the average intelligence level.’

Unfortunately, that’s true, and one could argue that’s why NBC decided to cancel it. Unfortunately, television shows like Keeping Up with the Kardashians, The Housewives of (name a county) and reality shows documenting the lives of unusual families tend to be favored by the masses.

Hannibal is as beautiful as it is creepy and disturbing

Despite this, just as we have to contend with men wearing sports jerseys and backwards ball caps to Michelin-star restaurants, we also have to deal with shows we love being taken off the air because most people would rather the quality of McDonalds over the quality of a 5-star restaurant.

Like the rarely seen bistro amongst the row of fast-food joints, Hannibal is, all things considered, the most stunning and beautiful television show of the year.

Aside from the dialogue, set design, music and cinematography, one could argue that one of the most prominent cravings of the show is the elegance that such a barbaric man can exude, both in his personal style and his culinary skills.

The bold style of Hannibal with slippers, and a flowery silk dinner jacket, shawl collar & black bow tie

Who is Hannibal Lecter

Brilliantly portrayed by Mads Mikkelsen in the series, Dr. Hannibal Lecter is a gifted forensic psychologist based on the characters and elements from the novel Red Dragon by Thomas Harris.

The key difference between Mikkelsen’s Hannibal and the Hannibal in the previous films is that Mikkelsen reminds you of Satan but in the most charming and elegant way that makes you want to sell him your soul.

He is a cannibalistic, ritual serial killer who executes his victims with panache and flair. Recruited as an expert by the FBI, he is partnered and hunted by the tormented protagonist, Will Graham, an expert profiler with the ability to see the crime through the eyes of the killer.

Dinner with Hannibal

Lecter becomes a trusted advisor to the FBI but also serves as a therapist to various FBI agents and consultants throughout the series.

A true culinarian, Lecter befriends those around him by preparing chef-d’œuvres to tantalize and delight his dinner guests. Of course, one can only imagine what the meal is made of.

Hannibal may be a demented serial killer, but he has the appearance of a gentleman of style. He is showcased throughout the series in an elegantly terrifying manner through his interior decor, his mannerisms, his cooking and of course, his style. Of course, it goes without saying that a murderer can never be a true gentleman.

The Style of Hannibal

Like the television show Suits, Hannibal is filmed in Toronto, Canada. Christopher Hargadon is the costume designer responsible for the show and under the guidance of the show’s creator, Bryan Fuller, he crafts Hannibal’s wardrobe for each episode based on the psychology of the episode.

Hannibal’s style is eccentrically bold and yet, crisply elegant and understated at the same time. One look at the character and you know that everything he wears is chosen with an eye for detail. His custom suits and combinations from local suitmaker Garrison are refined in the most dapper of ways, yet Hargadon has managed to use accessories and colors to create these whimsically flamboyant accents that showcase Hannibal’s brazen and yet reserved personality.

Mads Mikkelson is Hannibal wearing a wide spaced brown chalk stripe on light grey – note the visible contrast pick stitching & flapped chest pocket

Like Harvey Specter from Suits, Hannibal utilizes large Windsor knots in his ties to reflect his confidence and intrepidness. Sometimes, he even wears it with a dimple.  Three-piece suits are often worn with patterns that resemble outfits typically reserved for the most fashionably-diverse dandy in Paris.

The bold suits, wickedly paired with paisley ties and flamboyant pocket squares are downplayed by Hannibal’s cultivated and urbane personality. His quiet temperament exudes sophistication and yet you can tell based on the statement of his wardrobe that he’d briskly snap your neck with gusto and passion and yet without a second thought. It’s this psychotic and yet controlled temper that makes Hannibal so likable and yet so grotesque.

All parts of Hannibals life exude refinement
(Photo: Brooke Palmer/ Sony Pictures Television/ NBC)

All of Hannibal’s outfits are remarkably meticulous. Like the food showcased in each episode, he seemingly selects every thread of his wardrobe with methodical and careful resolve. He is a perfectionist, and everything about him is a testament to that.

Like a sumptuous feast for the sartorially-savvy gentleman, the fit of Hannibal’s clothes are exact and the materials chosen as fine as they come.

His choice of spread collars matched with the double windsor plays perfectly against the dynamic check patterns on his suits. Sometimes, he wears the same knot with a more closed collar though, which looks more like an amateur.

His velvet dinner jackets in teal and burgundy stands out against the standard black tuxedos worn by his co-stars.

Despite his panache, Hannibal still maintains a uniform of sorts. He is partial to three-piece, two button suits with uncuffed, flat-front trousers. Despite this, almost all of his suits feature bold patterns or odd colors. Rarely is he ever seen in a solid dark suit or subtle stripes, sharkskin etc. His wardrobe spans the darker colors of greens, blues, and browns, yet he is often confidently seen in summer suit colors and sometimes textures of tweeds and flannel.

Even the most mundane suit will be patterned with a noticeable glen check, windowpane or a chalk stripe. These less flashy suits are usually paired with a bolder dress shirt that is in stark contrast to the usual solid shirt worn with his more prominent, and even cheeky business suits. These very basic shirts are only noticeably-Hannibal due to the spread collar and used as a vessel to showcase his intrepid collection of jacquard silk paisley ties. On the rare chance Hannibal isn’t wearing a paisley tie, you can rest assured that his tie will still be bold and patterned. It is only when Hannibal is shown in a relaxed state without a tie, that he opts for a semi-spread collared shirt.

Hannibal is always relaxed yet stylish while cooking

Don’t let that fool you into thinking all of Hannibal’s shirts are standard white. They aren’t. Many are dark and deep shades whereas others are lighter pastels or bright blues. Rarely does Hannibal wear the same thing twice.

It’s a safe bet that if Hannibal is wearing a brown suit, Hargadon has managed to layer various shades of brown and perhaps the shirt is no exception.

To showcase Hannibal’s menacing intellect, intimidation as a murderer and yet prove his worth as an arbiter elegantiarum, Hargadon uses layers of the same color palette in different hues to give the audience an understanding of Hannibal’s mental state. The choice of color is often selected based on the mood, the music or the scenery. Every part of Hannibal’s wardrobe is crafted in meticulous fashion to show his character and his attitude. It’s the use of vibrant colors and exemplary fit that separate Hannibal from the dozens of other television characters wearing suits. One could argue that it’s all in the details.

Peak lapels, windowpane and bold patterns and colors accentuate his unique style

How To Dress Like Hannibal

1. Wear bold, single breasted three piece suits
2. Suit patterns must be unusual and include, plaids, checks, windowpanes and stripes, always in unusual color combinations with a certain amount of contrast
3. Colors: Skip the usual navy and grey and opt for browns, greens, and brighter blues for suits and jackets. For shirts, stick with pastel colors and small patterns. Strong dark colors are often difficult to combine elegantly and you really must have a very good sense of style to pull them off without looking ridiculous.
4. Shirt Details: Go with a spread collar, barrel cuffs and mother of pearl buttons.
5. Ties: Go with unusual ties in jacquard weaves and bold prints. Although he does not wear them, knit ties and wool or wool blend ties help you to create this unique look that separates you from the crowd. For a selection of unique neckties in the right size for you, click here.
6. Pocket Squares: Hannibal utilizes a wide range of linen silk and wool pocket squares all folded in a nonchalant way. You definitely want a wide range of out-of-the-box colors and textures which you can find in our shop here. Click here to learn how to fold pocket squares in a way Hannibal would approve.
7. Socks: Over the calf socks are a must. Ideally you try to choose the color and pattern so it goes well with another accessory without matching it 100%.
8. Shoes: As in most TV shows, shoes are not seen very often. When at home, Hannibal likes to wear velvet slippers. Otherwise he sticks with leather Oxfords.

Conclusion

One thing that Hannibal has done considerably well is by viewing all departments working on the show as a collective team. It’s evident that everyone from the music department to food styling to costume, makeup, and production work hand-in-hand to give the show a certain poetic feel that is consistently beautiful.

Everything seems to intertwine. It matches. Hannibal’s clothing is perfectly paired with the color palette of his office and dining room, the music is equally well matched. Food is showcased, and everything about Hannibal is vibrant and sophisticated. It is the most elegant show on television and one that will hopefully be picked up by another network that understands that not every viewer wants to watch reality television that makes us feel stupid just for tuning in.

When I am out and about, men often ask me when to wear black or brown shoes. Regularly, sayings such as “no brown in town” or “no brown after six” are mentioned, when in fact things are quite different from when these rules were invented. Hence, I’d like to elaborate on when and how to wear brown shoes and highlight how you can combine them with socks and pants.

To understand the basics of Brown Shoes, make sure to:

1. Watch the Video
2. Read the article
3. Check out the infographic at the bottom

History & Evolution of the Rules

If we go back in menswear history, we find that Beau Brummell (1778 – 1840) liked his black, champagne polished boots for town wear. Subsequently, leading arbiters such as Comte d’Orsay (1801 – 1852), Hermann Fürst von Pückler-Muskau (1785-1871), Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850), Barbey d’Aurevilly (1808 – 1889), and Edward VII (1841 – 1910) followed his example and wore black footwear for formal occasions and in town. During this period, rules along the lines of “no brown in town” or “no brown after six”, were very much respected, and ensured people were socially accepted.

Beau Brummel in black boots

By the 1930’s, Edward the Prince of Wales had relaxed some menswear rules, leading to softer materials and bolder colors. He also was a supporter of brown slip-on shoes Spectators and brown shoes in general. By the 1950’s, even English clothing guides such as Clothes and the Man by Sydney D. Barney advised for ‘Business and Day wear in town’: a lounge jacket with matching waistcoat and trousers with footwear in black or brown, according to the suit. In this context he mentions, “Brown shoes with a dark blue suit are undesirable.”

On the other hand, evening dress was still rather formalized; Full Evening Dress with white tie and  Dinner Dress both demanded black shoes.

So, you can see, by the 1950’s, the “no brown in town” rule was no longer valid, although black was still the color for evenings.

Three Neapolitans – Three different pairs of brown shoes

Today, dress codes are much more relaxed than they were in the fifties, and if you wear a well-cut suit, you are likely dressed better than 90% of the people around you. Even if you wear brown country boots to a restaurant for dinner, chances are your shoes are still more elegant than many other men, unless it is a respected establishment that has a dress code. Most debonair Italians I know only wear black footwear for funerals, weddings, and for formal evening events. Otherwise, they prefer brown in varying shades – especially when paired with blue suits. Now, in Britain black is often associated with business, although in my experience this is only true for a select circle. Most men I saw in England do not wear black shoes only for business, and if you walk on the streets in London, chances are you will find fewer well-dressed people than in Milan.

Just to be clear: Today, you can wear brown shoes in the evening and in town. Of course, a light tan may not be the best option for the evening, and a tuxedo goes best with black…

Wingtip Oxford Shoe with houndstooth bespoke suit

When to Wear Brown Shoes

Brown shoes can be worn with almost anything, ranging from jeans to cavalry twill and corduroy to flannel, worsteds and tweed. Unlike black, brown comes in an endless variety of shades allowing you to create a distinguished shoe collection that is unique. Here are a few guidelines that you can adapt as you please – just take a look in the mirror and use your sense of style.

1. Business Suits

For 3-piece or 2-piece business suits, in the following colors, in solid worsteds or flannels, pinstripes or faint windowpanes or Prince of Wales Checks:

• Black: Wear black shoes and avoid brown
• Charcoal Grey: I prefer black over any form of brown. Maybe dark brown can work, but avoid tan.
• Mid Grey: Black works but particularly dark brown or cherry is a suitable color. Avoid tan.
• Dark Navy: Black works well but cordovan, tan and dark brown can look magnificent and dashing. Of course, you will stand out visually with light tan shoes and a navy suit – something to bear in mind.
• Light Navy:   Black often looks better than brown in my opinion, but it really depends on the cloth. With pinstripes, I prefer to wear black shoes and never brown.
• Dark Brown: Pair it with brown shoes and skip black altogether.

• Miscellaneous:
  • Since a 3-piece suit is more formal than a 2-piece suit,  I have a tendency to wear black shoes more often than brown shoes with them.
  • If you wear a contrasting double breasted waistcoat in dove grey or buff, go with black shoes because it is a similar ensemble to the formal stroller suit.
  • If you want to play it safe, always choose a shade of brown that is darker than your suit color.
  • Of course, if you are confident enough, you can pair lighter shoe colors with dark suits but you will gather more attention that way.
  • Black remains the #1 color for business – so if you’re unsure, stick with black, and if you invest in your first pair of business shoes, go with a black captoe Oxford shoe.
  • If you wear belts, try to match the color of the shoe to the belt. Since there are so many shades of brown, it doesn’t have to be made of the same leather or the same color, just try to match it as closely as possible. If you wear suspenders, you won’t have to worry about this at all!

3. Sport Coat / Odd Jacket – Trouser Combination

Fresco, Tweed, Thornproof, Cheviot, Donegal, Flannel, Worsted, Corduroy, Velvet, Cotton, Linen, Gabardine:

• Black: With black corduroy, I like to wear tan boots.
• Charcoal Grey: I prefer black over any form of brown. Dark brown can work, but avoid tan.
• Mid Grey: Black works but especially dark brown or cherry is a good color. Avoid tan.
• Blue: I wear all kinds of brown with blue colors navy cordovan, tan and dark brown can look magnificent and dashing. Of course, you will gather more attention with a light tan shoe – something to bear in mind.
• Denim: Basically all kinds of brown work well. I like tan and cordovan oxblood very much.

Chocolate brown half brogue oxford by Antonio Pio Mele

• Red:   I wear all shades of brown, except reddish brown. Dark brown and tan are probably my favorite.
• Green: Brown every time. I have no particular preference and combine it with all shades. Avoid black.
• Khaki: Dark browns work well, avoid black.
• Tan: Cordovan, cherry and mid brown are great. Avoid black.
• white / off white:   I love to wear brown white spectators with it, but dark brown, mid brown or reddish brown works too.
• Brown: Brown only.
• Dark Brown: Tan is my favorite for dark brown.
• Miscellaneous: Brown is the best shoe and boot color for sport coats and contrasting trousers. Sometimes you also see boots or shoes with fabric inserts, which can be quite stylish.

Tweed boot

When not to wear brown shoes

If you wear formal morning dress (morning coat or stroller) or formal evening dress (white tie or black tie) you should not wear brown shoes – go with black. The exception for this exception could be a tuxedo in brown, as worn by Noël Coward, Nick Foulkes, or Lapo Elkann. In that case, a pair of matching velvet slippers could be an option, but that’s only for the very advanced clothes horse.

Don’t wear brown shoes with black suits.

Some would argue that you should not wear brown shoes to the opera. However, if you look at the general dresscode at operas today, you will be likely dressed better in a brown pair of shoes than the other attendees.

How to Combine Brown Shoes with Socks

Brown half brogue shoe with shadow stripe socks in blue & red with navy chalk stripe suit

A navy chalk stripe worsted suit is paired with chestnut brown calf leather brogue. This illustration is from the thirties and obviously, they wore dark suits with brown shoes even then. Moreover, they already had these beautiful shadow stripe socks in blue and red that can be worn with all kinds of navy suits. Alternatively, navy socks with clocks or blue stripes are a more subtle alternative.

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Dark Navy Blue & Royal Blue with Burgundy Derby Dress Shoe

 

Brown Oxford with patterns socks and pinpoint trousers

Chinos paired with  burgundy striped socks is unusual yet great with mid brown suede Derby shoes. Of course, you can always mix up the look of the shoes with some shoelaces.

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks in Burgundy & light grey paired with brown suede Derby shoes

Light grey just looks better with black than with brown.

Chukka boot with rubber sole, yellow socks, and green trousers

Green pants are great for mid brown suede shoes or boots and here the ensemble is brightened up with some yellow.

Dark brown Norwegian shoe with orange socks and patterned pants

These checked pants are made of Shetland and they pair well with the rust-orange over the calf socks and chocolate brown Norwegian shoes with with crepe soles.

Brown derby shoes with thornproof tweed and patterned socks

The solid brown blucher or derby is a wardrobe staple because it pairs with almost every kind of informal outfit

Mid brown monk strap shoe with green socks and classic Prince of Wales suit

Here, a classic Prince of Wales suit is combined with a mid-brown monk strap shoe and green socks but blue would work just as well, or maybe even a combination of green & blue.

Brown Oxford shoe with mid brown suit and purple socks

This mid brown herringbone suit pairs well with a mid-brown shoe, although a pair of contrasting socks would have been better. If you now want to create shoe – sock combinations yourself, take a look at this great selection of superior over the calf socks here.

Change The Look Of You Brown Shoes With Shoelaces

One of the quickest and most simple ways to change the look and feel of your brown shoes is to simply change your shoelaces. The advantages are simple: it’s quick, easy, inexpensive and reversible… For quality cotton shoe and bootlaces for men’s dress shoes, click here.

Yellow Shoelaces on Brown Oxford

Red Flat Waxed Cotton Laces on Derby Shoe in Criss Cross Lacing

Light Brown Cotton Shoelaces on Dark Brown Derby Shoes with Bar Lacing

Light Brown & Blue Socks with Suede Shoes in Brown and green shoe laces

Brown Leather Textures

Most commonly, you will see brown box calf leather shoes and  suede have been becoming more popular in recent years. Buffalo, reindeer skin and alligator have been classic, yet expensive brown shoe leathers as well. Generally, you should keep in mind that shoes with more texture are less formal. Sometimes you even see ostrich, pigskin, fishskin, or elephant hide for shoes. Most of the time, the last is not a classic shape and the entire shoe just screams for attention – personally, I don’t care for that.

Leather Patina

Unlike black leather, brown shoes will develop a patina over time, which can be further enhanced by leather dyes and special polishing techniques. I could easily write an entire article about that topic, which is why I won’t go into further detail, but take a look at a this beautiful patina.

Cognac Brown Derby Full Brogue with 2 inch cuff

Carpincho shoes & antique brown patina Oxford

Infographic

How To Wear Brown Shoes Infographic

Conclusion

Brown shoes are not a substitute for black shoes, and every man should own at least one pair of black plain Oxfords. If you work in a white collar environment, you can invest in a few pairs of black shoes, but otherwise go with brown because it is more versatile, it develops a fantastic patina over time, and it is the better color for casual outfits. If you don’t work in an office environment and rarely attend formal evening events, a single pair of black shoes may be enough for you, whereas you can never have enough brown shoes! If you like formal evening wear, invest in a pair of black patent leather Oxfords (in Austria Derby’s) or opera pumps – it is historically the correct choice for evening wear, even though some prefer polished calf skin for evening shoes.

When you receive an invitation nowadays, it may read Cocktail Attire, Black Tie Optional or Formal but what exactly does that mean? Back in the day, things were simpler: The Dress code was either Black Tie for less formal evening occasions and White Tie for more formal ones. The women’s dresses were chosen accordingly. Today, for many men the tuxedo is the most formal garment they will ever wear, and even then it is just rented. In the following, I want to explain what Cocktail Attire For Men is all about and what options you have for weddings, parties or events when you receive an invitation that asks for it.

Cocktail Attire For Men at a Wedding

Suit for Weddings, Cocktail Parties & Events

Interestingly, most women understand the attire required for such an event due to the aptly named, short cocktail dress (often black), whereas men generally do not have a clue as to what attire they should wear to a cocktail party. Of course, these are general wedding instructions that will be appropriate in 95% of all weddings. If the bridegroom is a flamboyant artist or someone who wears shorts and t-shirt, no matter what, try to adjust your outfit so you will not be completely out of place: For an artist wedding, go with more colorful accessories and for a completely informal wedding, skip the tie and just wear a combination with a dark jacket and lighter colored slacks – again, it is their day so you should try not to catch much attention with your outfit.

What to Wear To a Cocktail Party?

Mid Gray Fresco Suit with Pocket Square & Plain Navy Tie

Cocktail parties are supposed to be relaxed occasions, and although not wrong per se, a classic navy or charcoal business suit is probably a tad too formal. The following fashion illustration is from 1936 and shows us a nice mix of cocktail attire for men that are perfectly adequate today. This illustration clearly shows the evolution of women’s dress since the 30’s, since these women are wearing hats and suits that were then considered everyday attire rather than business wear. If the party is during the day or in the afternoon, you can add more color and patterns to your outfit, although the basics mentioned in the list above apply here as well. In the evening, you can wear darker suits, fewer patterns, and more muted colors. Below: you will find a bunch of different examples of cocktail attire for parties.

Cocktail Party Suits

The Stroller With Striped Trousers for Formal Day Event

Let’s start on the very left with the gentleman in the stroller. He leans by the fireplace, talking to the lady in red. Of course, this is an illustration, but note how neatly his coat fits around the collar, shoulders  and cuffs. There are neither gaps nor excess shirt cuff fabric to be seen. His stroller jacket is the typical single breasted, peaked lapel style with two buttons and jetted pockets. Instead of a pocket square, he opted for a red carnation that goes well with his buff waistcoat, white shirt and light blue tie. His trousers are striped but instead of the more common cashmere stripe, a special stripe for morning wear that does not really have anything to do with cashmere, he chose a wide stripe in black and white. This cocktail outfit used to be particularly popular for wear on Sunday afternoons and was often seen at the smartest cocktail bars. Today, the stroller is definitely the most formal of all the cocktail suits but yet different than another flannel blazer combination or a navy suit.

Windowpane Overplaid Sharkskin Suit – Great For Most Cocktail Parties

One of the highlights in this illustration is certainly the suit in the middle, featuring a large rust brown subdued windowpane overplaid on a grey sharkskin suit. Worn as a 3-piece suit with an ivory colored shirt and navy-red club tie,  the proportions of this suit are very moderate. It has a normal lapel width and gorge, round quarters and a fairly long jacket. In my opinion, windowpane suits are one of the most underrated outfits in menswear and hence, they are an ideal chance for you to differentiate yourself without being overly loud. As a general rule, you should keep in mind that more patterns and colors (other than navy and grey) you have in your outfit, the less formal it will be. All of the suits shown here would be appropriate attire for 95% of cocktail parties.

1

2

3

1

Blue Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Silk Fort Belvedere

2

Orange Golden Fritillaria Silk Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

3

Edelweiss Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Wide Stripe Worsted Flannel Suit – An Option for Evening Events

On the very right, we have a gentleman in a suit with yet another large pattern: the wide-spaced colored stripe. The red stripes inspired the rest of his dress, choosing a red boutonniere and Bordeaux tie. This three-piece flannel suit with stripes benefits from the peaked lapels, which provide a little more formality. If the lady in blue wear to step aside, you would see that the trousers of this suit are without cuffs, which raises the formality bar by another notch.

Striped Worsted Flannel

In combination with a white crisp shirt collar, this outfit would almost be bank appropriate, expect for the wide colored stripes.

Nevertheless, I think it is a fantastic stripe and hence I wanted to provide you with a picture of an authentic cloth sample. As you can see, the stripe is more subdued than in the illustration, which makes it even more appropriate for a cocktail suit that is different yet elegant.

Conclusion

At a wedding, try to be properly dressed without being too flashy and always keep the bride and groom in mind. For cocktail parties and receptions, leave your business navies and grays in the closet and add a splash of color. If you have a vest – even a contrasting one – wear it if it pairs well with the suit. I hope I provided you with some food for thought for cocktail attire for your next reception – have fun and enjoy company and drinks!

Sometimes, the greatest achievements take place on the smallest scale. Accessories have long had the ability to take a monotonous outfit and reengage its flair, it’s style, it’s personality.

The miniature tie clip is a small but noble part of that class. A small bracket of metal, gold, rhodium and in some cases fabric that holds the shape of your tie in place while discreetly emphasizing your personality without a whisper.

Here is our primer on one of our favorite accessories; the tie clip.

History of the Tie Clip

It was the year 1870, just months since the four in hand knot became popular and aristocrats began to use tie tacks and stick pins to hold their neckwear in place to prevent the wind from whipping it around. Ties of the age were made of such light material they were so prone to wrinkling that even the smallest gust of wind could find a man struggling to replace his tie in an orderly fashion. The tie tack was a tool with a purpose, and it’s job was stability. Of course, at that time a gentleman would wear a waistcoat at all times so the tie bar was of little use to him. Instead you could see them wearing tie stick pins. In 1926 the tailor Jesse Langsdorf created a new way to cut the tie at a 45 degree angle with three pieces, so it would avoid wrinkling and allow the tie to lay flat. Subsequently the gentler slides and clips came out, and soon tie clips had become a staple in every gentleman’s wardrobe. Most men acquired various clips in many different designs made of varying types of metal and gold. Often the clips would feature geometric patterns, pinstripes or very elaborate decoration and jeweling. With WWI and WWII tie clips started taking on a regimental appearance. Many clubs offered club pins and it wasn’t unusual for businesses to brand their employees through the use of corporately branded tie bars. It also helped that more and more men started to skip the vest, rendering the tie clip more important than ever before.. Famously elegant people like Fred Astaire or Clark Gable would wear them for manifold reasons. For the dancing Astaire a clip was practical because his ties would stay in place and Gable might have simply appreciated the look of them.

As corporate American began developing, tie clips became even more prominent and were worn by dignitaries, executives, middle management and even the layman. If you wore a business suit to work you wore a tie and if you wore a tie you wore a tie clip.

Then, sometime in the 1990s tie clips began taking a backseat. Chalk it up to the over abundance of flamboyance and ridiculousness in the outfits of the 1980s – let’s face it, the 80s weren’t good to any of us, but tie clips declined in popularity, so much so, it became difficult to procure them.

Within the last couple of years, it seems like tie clips have gained somewhat in popularity again.

Types of Tie Clips

There are many different styles that can help keep your tie in place while keeping you looking dapper. Let’s examine a few of them.

Tie Tack

This is the original tie clip. It can be found in many different metals, shapes and even with diamonds, rubies or other jewels affixed to it. It usually has a little chain with a T-bar attached to it, which is put through a shirt buttonhole to keep the tie in place. This is similar to a lapel pin in that it pierces your tie and shirt, to hold the tie in place. It works well for woven silk ties or coarser fabrics such as wool or cashmere neckties because the little tack won’t leave a mark. If you only wear finely printed foulard ties, it is probably not the right choice for you since the little holes may not disappear completely. However, they are easy to find at vintage stores and recently, my mother in law had her very first engagement ring made into a tie tack as a gift for my father in law! As you can see, you can get very creative with your tie tacks and since they are small, they won’t break the bank.

Tie Clip or Tie Bar

Like the mouth of an alligator, it’s two bars attached by a spring mechanism that latch together or sometimes just a simple bar.  You basically clasp your tie to your front shirt placket and that’s all. The bar or clip design is probably the most popular kind of tie clip at the moment, and you will find many different kinds, some of which are truly ugly and cheap looking, but also very refined ones.

Tie Chain

In the 1960’s and 1970’s it was popular to have a chain with a clip on the end that latches behind the tie onto the shirt. Often the chain will feature a fob of sorts and acts as a method to loosely but still securely hold the tie in place. Personally, I am not fond of the look and hence avoid it, but if you like it, you can find a lot of inexpensive vintage pieces.

Tie Stick Pin

The tie stick pin is technically not a tie bar, but you also use it to keep your tie in place. It is particularly common with a stroller suit or a morning coat and is more decorative than practical. Classic versions are made of solid 14k or 18k gold with a white pearl but you can find them also with diamonds or other precious and semi precious stones and more or less decorations. Considering you rarely see them these days, I find a simple stick pin to be the best addition to a formal daywear outfit.

Collar Pins

For some reason, collar pins and bars are often advertised as tie bars but that couldn’t be further from the truth. Checkout our collar pin guide or the collar pins in our shop for more information.

Why & When to wear a Tie Clip?

Few mens accessories that began with an objective in mind rarely serve the same fundamental purpose. The tie tack, clasp, bar, pin, slide, clip, or whatever you choose it still does, though at the same time, it has a number of other uses.

1. Decorative: men enjoy adding an accessory, just like cuff links or a signet ring
2. Keeps your ties clean: whenever you lean over the dining table, you run the risk of your tie touching your plate or meal. A tie clip prevents that from happening.
3. Great for Doctors:  When an MD sees a patient, they often have to lean over, and without a vest or clip the tie touches the patient. So either you can wear a bow tie, or a tie with a tie clip/
4. Essential for people with one shoulder lower than the other: Personally, my right shoulder is considerably lower than the other and sloped forward, which causes my ties to always hang crooked and never straight. A tie clip helps me to keep the tie straight at all times.
5. Good for popping tie knots: If you like the look of popping tie knots (tie knots that don’t lay flat on the shirt but pop up a bit), a tie bar helps to keep the popped knot in place

It’s rare when something so small and so intricate can have such a huge impact on the way a man looks.

How to Wear A Tie Clip Do’s & Don’ts

1. Clip it to your shirt: The first thing to remember is that the tie bar is intended to keep the tie in place, and it does so by grasping onto the shirt placket. Some men will often wear tie clips thinking it just holds the small neck and big neck of the tie together, when it fact it’s mean’t to be attached directly to the shirt.

2. Tie Clip Positioning: the Position of the tie bar is crucial and should be a couple inches or centimeters above your jacket’s closing button. Sometimes you see people wear it rather high up which is too much in your face. If you don’t wear a jacket, attached it somewhere close to your natural waistline or above. Study the gallery pictures above!

3. Tie Clip Width: The width of the tie clip should always be shorter than the width of the tie, preferably about 70 – 80% of the width. So, if you have skinny ties and wide ties, you need different tie clips. Clips that are too short or wide look horrible.

4. Tie Clip Angle: If you have a tie clip that is too long, angle it like Fred Astaire did it in the picture above. Otherwise wear it straight or at a slight angle. It all depends on your look. Casual outfits might benefit from a slight angle while polished business outfits look better with a horizontal tie clip.

5. Tie Clips & Vests: If you wear a vest, and you still want to use a tie clip, wear it invisibly underneath your vest, otherwise it is simply too much and you should skip it. For the most part, the vest will fulfill the function of a clip and you can skip the clip, unless you have sloping shoulders like me – in that case, wear it underneath.

6. Keep it simple: Skip all the Goofy inspired or sports tie pins with big logos or anything of that kind because it will simply look cheesy. To start, a simple clip in plain silver or gold will be all you need. Then you can add semi precious stones etc.

Vincent Kartheiser with properly positioned tie bar

Where to Buy a Tie Clip

Many of the traditional stores like Cartier have stopped selling tie bars with the recent decline in popularity. However, there are still many stores that do. Here are few suggestions:

Jewelry stores such as Tiffany & Co as well as Van Cleef and Arpels also usually have a few in store for sale. Try ebay to find some quality pieces in solid gold for about $1,000, or just talk to the goldsmith of your choice, a custom made tie bar will not be overly expensive after all. Apart from that, Montblanc offers tie bars regularly but often they put their own logo on it which is bad.

In case you want something in a lower price category, I suggest you look at plain sterling silver tie bars, which cost about $30 such as this one or that one.

Ultimately, eBay and etsy are great sources for used and vintage tie bars at any price level. Simply search for tie bar, tie clip or tie tack. Also try combination of things you like such as tie bar 14k gold or tie clip onyx… Try to avoid gold plated items because the plating comes off easily and rather opt for gold-filled instead. Antique shops, pawn shops and estate sales can be your best sources when looking for items such as these and we wish you all the best in finding some truly remarkable ones that are still around. Of course, you have to put in a lot more time and effort to find something you like, but you may find a bargain.

Tie clip – way too high

Conclusion

We hope you’ve enjoyed our primer on tie bars and clips. It may seem like they’re not as stylish as they once were but they are in the midst of a come back and just like cuff links or signet rings, they really help you personalize your outfit without breaking the bank.

What’s your favorite tie bar?

This article was written by Sven Raphael Schneider and J.A. Shapira.

When it comes to the elegant gentleman, his lifestyle is generally reflective of his sense of style, his attitude and his desires. He appreciates the finer things in life and lives his life elegantly.

In today’s economy, most of us spend the vast majority of our waking hours at work. For many, it is an enjoyable use of our time, but for others it’s dreadful. For an aspiring gentleman, work can be another sartorial outlet, and certain professions are more style-oriented than others. Therefore, we thought we’d compile a list of careers  – though hardly comprehensive – that suit the lifestyle of the elegant gentleman.

Before we get started, it’s important to note that in this day in age, a “gentleman” is no longer a titled bestowed only upon the wealthy, titled set. Today, a man chooses to be a gentleman through his actions, character, conversation, and style, among many other characteristics. A career (and susequent earnings) should in no way be considered the most important measure of a gentleman, but it can be another venue for style concious men to express themselves.

Harvey Specter is a lawyer on USA Networks Suits

Attorney

Few other jobs require their employees to wear a suit every day. Of course, there are more casual firms but, for the most part, any of the large firms will appreciate your sartorial talents. Aside from the chance to wear the clothing you love, most firms offer substantial income opportunities that provide you with the chance to afford the lifestyle you want. Combine that with a cushy office once you make partner, a beautiful sedan in the driveway and the opportunity for growth both in the firm and outside it and working as a barrister and solicitor seems like the perfect job for the elegant dandy. Of course, don’t expect to be like Harvey Specter in Suits, because that’s simply not the case.

Average Annual Income (US): $92,000

Being a doctor can afford you a sense of freedom and an affluent lifestyle

Doctor

Many of the wealthiest men in the United States are medical professionals. From plastic surgeons to family physicians the opportunities are endless for those looking to help the community but draw a substantial salary enabling you to afford a Savoir Vivre lifestyle. Some years ago I was very ill and had to be flown to Cedar Sinai hospital in Los Angeles to meet with a specialist. One of the first things I noticed from under his white coat were his Salvatore Ferragamo oxfords, the Montblanc Meisterstück in his pocket and the Audemars Piguet watch on his wrist. It was evident that he was pulling in enough money to afford his lifestyle in Beverly Hills, and his job afforded him the opportunity to express his love for elegant clothing and accessories at work.

Average Annual Income (US / Non-Specialty): $67,000 but of course many earn much more

An architect is an artist with an income

Architect

Half art and half science, an architect, has one of those high-income jobs that allows him to not only dress as he likes but to express some of his interests in his designs. There are many buildings around the world that architecture buffs can look at and recognize immediately as the work of a particular designer. And unlike most artists, the architect can see the fruition of his work before he passes away.

Average Annual Income (US): $102,000

Food writers have the chance to enjoy some of the finest foods in the world

Food Writer

For the culinarians of the world with a passion for an elegant lifestyle, there is really nothing more romantic than working as a food writer and having the opportunity to cover the best (and worst) restaurants, food festivals and events around your city. The pay isn’t as spectacular as many of the other jobs in this list but you can work your way up to a decent income once you develop some traction and get on staff at a large newspaper or magazine. Of course, the best part is all the amazing food you get to try and that most restaurants will bend over backward to please you. That is if they recognize you of course.

Average Annual Income (US): $43,000

Few jobs are as tranquil and romantic as being an artist

Artist

For most, this is more of a passion but for a chosen few, it can turn into a very lucrative career. Being an artist is all about expression and although you might not be able to afford the bespoke suits, luxury sedans, and fine writing instruments immediately, it gives you a sense of freedom and artistic expression most jobs won’t afford.

Average Annual Income (US): $41,000

Still Photographer for the independent films, short films and movie sets and projects

Photographer

Working as a professional photographer is about seeing the beauty in everything and exposing it through your lens. The artistic prowess it takes to turn the most mundane scene into a piece of art is a perfect match for many who are sartorially savvy. Not only is this a job of expression, but it’s one that can afford you a lifestyle you dream of. From runway shoots at New York Fashion Week to beachside photo shoots in France, there are no limits to what can be achieved when there’s talent behind the lens. Of course, a good photographer can earn 10 or 50 times as much as the annual income…

Average Annual Income (US): $19,000

A pilot has a certain glamorous lifestyle attached to it

Pilot

Who doesn’t dream of the opportunity to travel the world and see the sights? While most commercial and private pilots are required to wear a uniform the real benefit is when you land and having the opportunity to visit the haberdashers in the many cities and countries you’ll no doubt visit as a pilot. While layovers tend to be short (a few hours to overnight), so long as you don’t have to spend your time reviewing flight plans and doing your pre-flight, even a quick taxi ride into the shopping district can prove to be worth the flight.

Average Annual Income (US): $86,000

Being a writer can offer you a sense of tranquility and freedom of expression

Novelist

There is no job that is more romantic than being a novelist. While I’ve never had the chance to write a fictional novel, I like to think of journalism as literature in a hurry. The idea though of being able to trap yourself in an environment of tranquility for three months at a time is very appealing. Many top authors will leave home while writing and take shelter in a secluded cabin in the woods, a small villa in Italy or a little bed and breakfast in a small town in upstate New York. The romanticism of writing a novel is a perfect way for the elegant gentleman to spend his career. Plus, if the book is a bestseller you can spend your days traveling the country on tour and having a chance to experience different cuisines, see new museums and engage with many new people. It’s a great lifestyle if you can make a living doing it.

Average Annual Income (US): $69,000

There are few lifestyles as glamorous and opportunistic as a CEO or executive

Senior Level Executive

There is no job more prominent than being a business owner or senior level executive for a major corporation. From virtually limitless income to perks that only owners get, running a business is a great way to live your life and still make a living doing it. I love that as a small business owner, I have the chance to set my own hours, work from my patio with a cigar in my hand or visit a local vintage store at 2pm on a Monday because I heard they just got a collection of bow ties in stock. The freedom of being your own boss is liberating and it affords you the opportunity to set your rules that make 2 hour lunches at the new French bistro in town a possibility and invitation only events at the museum a reality.

Small Business Owner Average Annual Income (US): $112,000 Senior Level Executive Average Annual Income (US) $94,000 – $240,000

The tie collection of a Wall Street investment banker as seen in the Wall Street Journal

Investment Banker

There’s little explanation needed here. We’ve all seen movies like Wall Street and American Psycho, and we know that when you work as successful investment banker or trader you get a lot of perks with the job. From dinners at the country club to penthouse apartments overlooking Central Park, being an investment banker comes with an income and opportunity that can give you the lifestyle you want, and of course it doesn’t hurt that you get to wear a suit to work everyday. The only thing to keep in mind is many make commission only so the hours can be brutal.

Average Annual Income (US): $102,000

Worth an est 15 million Luis Ortiz is one of New Yorks top Realtors with an affinity for Montblanc pens fast cars and bespoke suits

Real Estate Agent

Another commission only job, a lot of what a Realtor does is based on geography. An agent in New York or Beverly Hills will have the opportunity to pull in a higher income than an agent in Fargo or Duluth. However, the big benefit as an agent is that for most, the opportunity is there to make a very nice income and many Realtors live very comfortable lifestyles, driving entry level luxury cars, wearing bespoke suits and carrying the finest accessories.

Average Annual Income (US): $76,000

The offices of a professor at Cornell University

Professor

University professors are some of the most respected professionals in North America. They are experts in their field of study and handle educating the future world leaders. As a tenured professor at a well-regarded institution, you’ll have the opportunity to mold minds and be rewarded well for it. It’s a noble profession, and it makes you an instantly recognized leader and expert in your field. It’s the perfect job for an elegant gentleman who wants to share his passions and experience with the world.

Average Annual Income (US): $55,000 Average Annual Income (US Ivy League): $256,000

A sommelier at work

Sommelier

Initially the idea of putting a chef down as one of the career choices was kicked around, but ultimately we opted for a more refined restaurant role since chefs are well known for either having or having to deal with kitchen staff who aren’t exactly “elegant gentlemen” throwing around salty language and inappropriate banter behind the counter.

However, the sommelier is a very coveted role in a top restaurant. An expert in wine, they typically live what they preach and tend to enjoy the finer things in life. Unlike the kitchen staff or wait staff that usually wears some form of uniform, the sommelier in most restaurants is afforded a bit of room to select a suit or dinner jacket for their shift each evening. As a member of the North American Sommelier Association, I can vouch firsthand that many of the sommeliers I’ve had the chance to meet really do live the lifestyle they want and, of course, one perk is being able to enjoy some superlative wines or whiskies.

Average Annual Income (US): $56,000

FOR TV WEEK — DO NOT PURGE – Kevin Spacey in season 2 of Netflix’s “House of Cards.” Photo credit: Nathaniel Bell for Netflix.

Politician

Before you burst into laughter, hear me out. Sure politicians aren’t often considered the most ‘elegant’ of men, but it doesn’t mean you can’t be. Politicians have the chance to change the world, and they also have the opportunity to attend some of the most lavish events, hold office in historic buildings and live a lifestyle normally not afforded to public office.

Average Annual Income (US): $71,000

The lifestyle of a Mad Man

Advertising Account Executive

Think MadMen. These are the guys in the suits who deal with the clients. Before I became a writer, I worked in advertising as an account exec and then in finance as a trader. Both of those jobs give you the chance to wear suits to work each day, but advertising gives you some real creative control and an opportunity for expression. Unlike the design team, the account exec is responsible for acting as a liaison between the agency and the client. Therefore, they are the ones invited to the client events, mingling with the collaborative partners and taking the corner office in most firms.

Average Annual Income (US): $43,000

An art appraiser is surrounded by elegance and beauty every day

Art Appraiser

Being surrounded by art is a dream for many dandies with an appreciation for the finer things in life and as an appraiser you have the unique opportunity to see the art before the rest of the world. From private collections to museum masterpieces, the appraiser is a respected member of the art society and usually lives a lifestyle that is representative of their role. Fine art, great food and a superlative personal style.

Average Annual Income (US): $61,000

Entrepreneur

When all is said and done, the Entrepreneur probably has the greatest freedom when it comes to elegant clothing because as the founder of the business you can wear what you like and set dress codes without having to think about your boss. At the same time, if your customers think you are too flamboyant it may hurt your business but with a strong personality people can always see that you wear the clothes and not vice versa. Average Annual Income (US): varies immensely

Conclusion

This is just a handful of some of the ideal jobs for the elegant gentleman. Of course, it’s all based on personal interests and lifestyle so what’s right for one may not be a good fit for another. What do you do for a living and do you find it’s reflective of your lifestyle?

US Income Source: Indeed.com

If you are like me, you learned how to tie your shoes at a very young age, and you have been doing it the same way ever since, without giving it much thought. However, when I was wearing shoes, I noticed that the knot would always look lopsided after a few hours, and when I walked a bit, the knot would often come undone.

Now, I experimented with various double knots and other ways but the added bulk never let the knot look more elegant but just bulkier and it would still twist.

Then, I noticed my bow ties and how they would remain straight all day. The key to making this same principle work for my shoes was very simple, and in today’s video I show you exactly how you can tie your shoes by making just one little change. I did it wrong all my life and chances are you did too.

However, tying your shoes this way will tighten your knot over the day so it won’t loosen up, and it will remain straight and elegant.

Transcript:

Welcome to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In today’s video, we’re going to talk about tying your shoelaces the way you did in kindergarten. First of all, you need the right shoelaces. You’ll want thin, cotton laces. Don’t go with nylon, they may be good for tennis shoes but not for Oxfords.

If you’re interested in getting high-quality shoelaces, such as these, round and flat in 15 different colors, click here.

If you’re like me, you probably learned to tie your shoes in a way, and you learned it at a very young age and you never thought about it because it worked. So the traditional way of tying your shoes is having the knot, and then you form the loop, you go once around, and you pull it through. Now, that’s actually similar to a bow tie and when you look at it more closely, you can see that it’s slightly angled from left to right, and when you actually pull on the outside of the shoe, you can see how the entire knot points up and down rather than left to right.

The Better Way To Tie Your Shoes

The better way to tie your shoes is to start with the same knot, you form the loop with your right hand but instead of going this way, you now just go the other way and form the loop. Now, it may seem like this is exactly the same thing as it is before but look at the result, it goes from left to right and if you pull on your shoe,actually what happens is it tightens your knot, it doesn’t loosen it and the knot stays in place. This means you won’t have to tie your shoes anymore because when you actually move every time your knot gets tighter and secondly, it just looks very nice because it stays in the same shape from left to right. So with this simple life hack, you not only create a better-looking result but you also have shoelaces that are tight more purposefully and last longer.

Most men try to get rid of their tie at the end of the day as quickly as possible. The one’s who do not know how to tie a tie, sometimes leave their knot in the tie, but that’s bad for the tie and will shorten its life. On top of that, different collars require different knot and, therefore, you should always re-tie your tie knot every time you wear it. While the majority of necktie wearers simply pulls out the shorter end of the knot, here is the proper way to untie and take-off your tie.

Transcript:

In this video, I’m going to show you how to properly untie your tie knot.

The reason you want to untie your tie this way is because it protects the integrity of the thread that keeps the tie together and that way, you are able to enjoy your tie for much longer. First, you want to loosen your tie knot by gently pulling side to side, back and forth. You’ll see that way, your back end will come out. The wrong way to untie your tie knot is to simply pull out the back end of your tie because it puts a lot of strain on your thread, and your tie is much more likely to rip. If it doesn’t rip today, it will in the future, trust me.

The right way to untie a tie is to reverse the process the way you tied it. So, you loosen your knot and you pull out the short end gently but then you want to pull out the long end first, you gently do that with your thumb. Once you got it out, it goes back through here and now, you gently loosen the whole thing with your fingers. Once you’re at that point, you can open your top button, and you simply and gently pull out your tie. If you have worn your tie all day, chances are there a few wrinkles but if the tie has a good interlining, you will get the wrinkle out by simply rolling it up. In order to do that, you take your tie, take it in half and then you roll it around your finger like this. Voila! That’s the way you leave your tie for about a day, and once that’s done, what you should do with a regular tie is simply hang it up, just like the ties here in the background.

If you enjoyed this video, make sure to check out our other channel videos about ties, bow ties and all things men’s style and most importantly, make sure to sign up to our newsletter or subscribe to our channel on YouTube, and you will never miss a video again and thank you for watching.

For videos about how to tie a tie with different knots, from the the Four-In-Hand to the Windsor how to get a dimple in your tie every time and more, take a look here.

While most of us in the northern hemisphere are still enjoying the summer weather, now is the best time to think about your upcoming fall wardrobe. In a few short weeks, it will be getting colder again. While many loathe the colder months of the year, I always look forward to that time of the year because it allows me to wear different fabrics and layers paired with a range of accessories. Here are some sartorial tips for making the most of fall.

Beautiful flannel fabric for fall

1. Wear heavier fabrics with an interesting pattern

My first advice is to go for heavier fabrics, meaning 12 oz / 350 grams or above. The average winter fabric will be 10 oz / 300 grams, but this weight doesn’t drape as well and during the colder months of the year you’ll appreciate the added weight. Personally, I recommend flannel fabrics – grey for business and dark brown or tan for less formal suits. For jackets, go with patterns such as windowpane, glen check, or houndstooth with an overplaid. If you want something very special, have a suit made out of the aforementioned materials – for example, a brown flannel glenplaid suit. Off the rack, you will find garments like that from sophisticated haberdashers but a bespoke tailor or made to measure operation may be the way to go for something unique. Only there will you be able to choose the shade of your grey windowpane flannel suit and that can make all the difference, especially if your wardrobe has evolved past the classic foundation pieces. Many weavers produce excellent fall/winter fabrics – two that have produced consistently great stuff are Luciano Barbera and Vitale Barberis Canonico (link with sound) – especially their Winter Classics.

Mottled Grey with depth rather than a plain solid

2. Opt for fall colors

While summer is great for bright colors, the fall / winter season is made for muted colors: shades of brown, tan, red, purple, mauve, green, mustard yellow and blue will work supremely well, especially if you mix the colors. Of course, you can choose to wear bright colors as well, but ensure you have one vivid item such as a tie, pocket square or boutonniere and tone down the rest. For example, take a rather bright red tie with printed small geometric patterns,  a paisley pocket square in burgundy and some mauve socks together with a grey herringbone tweed jacket and grey flannel pants – you’ll look fantastic.

Most garments off the rack come in solid color these days, but for fall, a mottled grey, blue or tan has a warmer character that goes so much better with the season. Even if you look closely at your grey flannels, you’ll notice there are some variations in the color.

Mix patterns & textures to create understated elegance

3. Mix Color, textures & patterns

Due to the range of rather muted colors, fall outfits allow you to experiment with pattern, color and texture matching. As you may know, it’s quite easy to overdo it. The art of matching lies in the subtle harmony of all the elements. For example, look at this outfit below. You can see a sports coat in dark blue, mid blue and brown plaids, a bright purple boutonniere, a faux-madder pocket square in a greenish grey with yellow and orange geometric patterns, a white shirt and white and blue bold striped jacquard tie. Basically, there are three patterns and one bright color but it all works together beautifully, due to the color harmony and the size of the patterns.

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Wool Challis Tie in Navy Blue with Small Geometric Pattern – Fort Belvedere

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Wool Challis Tie in Mohair blue with Small Geometric Pattern Fort Belvedere

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Wool Challis Tie in Olive Green with Small Geometric Pattern – Fort Belvedere

4. Go with fall ties

Just like coats, fall ties are more muted in color and classics like real ancient madder silks or wool challis prints make for a great fall / winter outfits. Also, knit ties in silk, wool, or wool blends work well, including cashmere because they create a very different character than traditional silk tie. Generally, I wear more printed silk ties during the fall but a jacquard one can work too, as shown above. As with all ties, make sure you have the right length because it looks disproportional to have a tie stick out underneath your cardigan, waistcoat or knit vest.

Pattern, Color & Texture Matching by An Affordable Wardrobe

5. Top it off with fall specific pocket squares

Again, fall calls for muted squares, although you can also make this a great, bright centerpiece if the rest of your outfit is subdued. Regarding texture, it pays to alternate with the tie. For example, a jacquard tie goes well with a printed madder silk square. Printed ties work well with wool challis squares, and wool ties work well with printed silk. These are just a few ideas for you to play with. After a while, you should develop a sense of what works well. Just make sure to avoid wearing the same pocket square tie combination too often – there are so many ways to create new outfits, even with a few items! Personally, I never wear the same outfit twice, even if it’s just the socks that are different, or the cuff links… try to experiment, and you’ll be surprised what you can pull off.
Find some low-light outfit pictures below:

6. Reorganize your closet

Even if you already have a fantastic fall wardrobe and accessories, make sure you see them, otherwise, you just won’t wear it. For example, take a look at Sean Crowley’s tie collection – layered ties make for forgotten ties.  The same is true for your shirts, sport coats and shoes. Even if you have a small closet try to organize it in a way so you can see what you have, even if that means that you have to sort through your collection and get rid of some pieces because you will end up wearing more.

Oxblood Cordovan Tassel Loafers by Meermin, with red blue striped socks by Fort Belvedere & red Indochino slacks

7. Brown shoes are your friend

Of course, you can wear red, tan or green shoes in fall, but your most versatile option is definitely brown. Now, Brown “narrows” your color choice down to about 350 because there are so many different shades! On top of that, you can choose different leather textures and finishes. The most classic is the plain box calf finish, but suede is particularly suited for flannel because both have a certain texture that works well together. Of course, there are all kinds of exotic leathers such as elephant or alligator, but in terms of versatility, a trio of chocolate brown suede derby shoes, a cognac brown full brogue and oxblood cordovan loafers will get you very far because you can combine them with so many things. Antiqued cherry monk straps would also work with many things, but if you are still building a wardrobe keep these three shoes in mind.

Click here to learn how to wear brown shoes.

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Blue Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Silk Fort Belvedere

8. Wear a boutonniere

One of the easiest and least expensive ways to create a unique outfit is to add a boutonniere. Probably no other accessory will elevate your outfit as noticeably as a boutonniere because so few men wear them. Since fresh flowers can be hard to come by, silk boutonnieres in smaller sizes are recommended, because big flowers will easily overwhelm your outfit. Click here to learn more about Boutonnieres.

Bruce Boyer in tweed, printed tie, unbuttoned shirt collar and printed scarf by Rose Callahan

9. Wear silk scarves, a trench coat & a quilted jacket

During the transitional period from summer to fall and sometimes even winter, a trench coat will be one your most valuable companions. Not only does it give you a pleasing silhouette, but it also protects you from the rain and works with almost any other garment. While wool or cashmere scarves are the standards during the winter, either double sided silk and wool scarves or just printed silk scarves are a perfect accessories for your trench or sports coat. For more casual outfits, a quilted jacket is great for travel because it’s lightweight yet warm when you need it to be.

10. Get an Overcoat

Once January rolls around, even trench coat with wool lining will be too cold especially in the sleeves, and so you should look for at least one overcoat. Over the past few years, we wrote a number of definitive articles on various overcoat styles; read them here.

Outfits

Last but not least, I would like to present a few fall outfits from the likes of Luciano Barbera, Dr. Andre Churchwell  and yours truly.

Overcoats and topcoats are an integral part of an elegant gentleman’s wardrobe yet few men know what pieces they should invest in. Therefore, I started a series to reveal the different overcoat & topcoat styles.

With a rainy fall in full swing, this is the perfect season to discuss the Trench Coat, to explore its unique roots and variations and to help you to find a trench that both suits your style and your budget.

The Trench Coat has come a long way from the battlefields of the 19th century. As far as coats go, the Trench Coat is about as iconic as they come, appreciated for their classic form and functionality by men of all tastes. In order to find the right Trench Coat for yourself, it is important to understand its history.

The History of the Trench Coat

As with many garments today, there are numerous theories about the exact origins of the trench coat, and while it is impossible to find out who is right, I will try to outline possible scenarios – you can then choose the theory that pleases you the most!

American Trenchcoat of the 1940’s

The Early Days – Macintosh & the Rubberized Raincoat

It seems, that the 18th-century coachman’s coat – which was also the predecessor of the greatcoat– was likely the forefather of the trench coat. Unlike modern designer garments, each characteristic feature of the trench was born out of practicality.

Today, the trench coat is classified as a raincoat, which brings us to our starting point at the beginning of the nineteenth century. Back then, gas lighting was becoming increasingly popular, and Glasgow, Scotland, the gas was derived from coal. In 1818, the Scotsman James Syme realized that the by-product, coal-tar naphtha, was capable of dissolving rubber. As has occurred so many times in history, the inventor / discoverer passed on his information to a savvy business person – in this case, Charles Macintosh, who had successfully made a lot of money with dry bleach.

Charles Macintosh

By 1823, Macintosh had found a way to make use of this adhesive rubber solution in garments. He applied it between two layers of cloth, which resulted in a waterproof raincoat that did not feel at all like rubber. Despite the fact that this raincoat had a most unpleasant odor, the Charles Macintosh & Co. was founded in 1824 Manchester, England, which was home to the cotton mills that provided the raw materials for the raincoats.

Although Macintosh was able to sell quite a few of these purely practical garments, the smell was not its only undesirable feature. With the charm of a potato sack, the coat also became sticky like honey in the heat and hard as a board in the cold. Also, the fumes where toxic for the factory workers. By the late 1830s, the coat had fallen out of favor. Advances in production were made, and so by 1854 the company Hellewell advertised the five ounces reversible Paletot, which looked more fashionable and hence was popular with anybody who had to face the elements. Overall, the second incarnation of the raincoat was so popular that they were referred to as Macintosh. Today, the version with a ‘k’, Mackintosh, is more prevalent, and the company is now Japanese-owned.

Aquascutum Grey Goodlake Trenchcoat from 1854

Aquascutum

While the Manchester rainwear production was about to reach its peak, two chaps from southern England were working on their own interpretation of this very raincoat. One of them was John Emary, who had opened a tailor shop on Regent Street in 1851. He developed a special raincoat that he called Aquascutum (from the Latin aqua = water & scutum = shield). Soon after that, Aquascutum was producing coats for British soldiers. These coats reached to the ankle and were mostly made up in a double breasted facon.

The raincoat was produced in larger numbers for the British military beginning in 1853 and used in the Crimean war, and it even made an appearance during the American Civil War (1861 – 1865), the Boer Wars and the Russo-Japanese War (1904 – 1905). The oldest likely ‘trench’ coat in existence today is the Aquascutum on of Lt. General Gerald Goodlake, which is preserved at Newstead Abbey, England. He wore this coat during the Crimean war, in which he commanded a force of sharpshooters. On one guerrilla sortie behind the enemy lines, Goodlake, and a sergeant were cut off by a large body of Russian troops. The two British soldiers fired, gun-clubbed their nearest attackers and ran into a nearby ravine. However, the ravine filled with enemy soldiers. To their surprise, the British found they were ignored because of the gray raincoats coats they wore – they had been mistaken for Russians. This camouflage enabled them to march along in the ranks of the enemy until they had an opportunity to escape and rejoin their own men. The gray coat worn by Goodlake is displayed next to his general’s uniform. It was made of all wool cloth by a famous West of England mill and waterproofed to the extent then possible. As you can see in the photo though it was an early predecessor of the trench coat, it does not bear many of it’s trademark features, which would develop later on.

Thomas Burberry

In 1856, a 21-year-old draper’s apprentice, Thomas Burberry, opened an outerwear shop in Basingstoke. Since he had grown up in the country, he noticed that the linen garments of farm workers had certain properties that he wanted to transfer to overcoats and topcoats. This farmer’s clothing was lightweight and not constricting, warm in the winter, breathable in the summer, and shower resistant when damp, because the material shrank once it got moist. Although Aquascutum was the first to produce weatherproofed raincoats on a large scale, by the 1870’s Thomas Burberry had developed into a fierce competitor.

The Tielocken Trench Coat from Burberry’s

Unlike the rubberized version of Emary, Burberry followed a different approach. Instead of wool, he used sturdy fabric that was woven of a long staple Egyptian cotton yarn that was waterproofed before and after the weaving. He called it Gabardine – today also known as gaberdine – which was, in fact, an old term that had been outdated at the time. The advantages were that it was lightweight, odor free, hard wearing and waterproofed. In 1879, he registered the term Gabardine as a trademark, which would last for 40 years. World explorers like Amundsen and Shackleton would use Gabardine for their exhibitions, and it was widely used during the Boer Wars.

Many Boer war veterans would also fight in the trenches of WWI, and the most famous one was Field Marshal Lord Kitchener, who cut an iconic British figure with a mustache and a trench coat. His preferred model was the Tielocken model, which had been patented in 1912 as a coat with a strap and a buckle instead of buttons and buttonholes. Many officers aspired to follow him, and when he died on a sinking ship during the war, he supposedly wore his trench coat, helping to cement the coat’s by then-legendary status. As you can see from the advertisement, the trench coat was beginning to approach it’s traditional configuration.

Despite, Burberry’s prominent proponents, Aquascutum also had a loyal following that would send back raving letters from the front lines, which would go on to become part of the Aquascutum’s advertising campaigns. During WWI, trench coats were cut in different lengths; they were generally shorter and sometimes they would just reach above the knee. Moreover, they featured epaulets and D-rings. Almost as famous as the sand, olive, and khaki colors were blue & gray gabardine with a checked lining. While some suspect that this was a designer’s invention of the 20th century, checked lined rainwear was, in fact, the standard in the 1880s and 1890s. There was a period in the mid-twentieth century in which trench coats were often lined in solid colors, but today the checked lining is just as distinctive as the outer shell.

Famous Casablanca Trench Coat Scene

Some may wonder why this coat remained so popular during the interwar years, and there are a few key reasons. Firstly, in Britain, the government had ordered thousands of trench coats and found itself with a hefty surplus at the end of the war. They were distributed to the public in the 1920’s. Secondly, officers were happy to make use of their uniforms in civilian life, especially since this garment were tough, hard-wearing and fabric remained a scarce commodity. Thirdly, Hollywood stars showcased the trench coat in films across the US, many of which are cultural treasures themselves; just think of  Casablanca and Humphrey Bogart, or the Maltese Falcon.

Gary Cooper as soldier in Sergeant York, 1941 wearing an Over Knee Length Trench Coat

Since the combat strategies of WWII were different and less trench-focused than WWI,  shorter multi-functional field jackets (some even camouflaged) were now the garment of choice, and the trench coat lost its military significance. Of course, many have probably seen photographs of German officers from the time in black leather trench coats but these were worn to make an impression rather than for their practicality. Nevertheless, the trench coat remained popular with the public thereafter. Aquascutum blended newly-invented nylon with cotton to create water- and wind-resistant fabrics such as Aqua 5, long before Gore-Tex & Windstopper became household names. In the following decades until today, the trench coat has been popular with countless designers for men and women alike. Today, Burberry Trench Coats are designer investment pieces rather than practical garments. Anyone who knows a thing or two about clothing might try to find a vintage quality Burberry or Aquascutum, because these were the durable classics that contained all the defining details.

What makes a Trench a Trench?

Trench Coat Hallmarks

I can only repeat myself, but it is important to emphasize that the trench was not invented. Rather than being created on the whim of a designer, it evolved out of necessity and practicality.

1. Trench Coat Fabric

100% Cotton Gabardine

For traditionalists, there is just one choice of trench coat fabric: 100% cotton gabardine as invented by Thomas Burberry. Tightly woven of a worsted cotton, it is both lightweight and durable. As mentioned above, the yarn is waterproofed as well as the finished fabric, achieving remarkable water repellency properties during it’s heyday.

Rubberized

About 15 years ago, Mackintosh reintroduced the rubberized coat as a luxurious item in flashy colors. Since they were particularly successful with Japanese women, the company was sold to a Japanese firm. The prior owners started Hancock, which produced rubberized garments in Scotland.

Modern Fabrics

Aquascutum’s original rubber coating invention is not suggested, because one would easily overheat. If you want ultimate stay-dry performance, fabrics like Gore Text or Event fabric would be better suited, however I think they just don’t look right on such a traditional garment.

Leather

There was a time when leather was frequently used for trenches. German, WWII officers were infamous for their black leather trenches. Out of respect for the victims the Third Reich, black leather trench coats should never be worn.

In brown colors, a trench coat resembles the style of the 1970’s and 1980’s. Moreover, it is usually heavier, and you will not get as much use out of it. Therefore, it’s best to stay clear of leather trench coats altogether.

Brauchitsch & Hitler in Black Leather Trench Coats at Warsaw Parade 1939

2. Colors

The most traditional color is camel / khaki. Other popular colors include sand, stone as well as navy blue or black. Today, you can find them in black, yellow red or and every other color under the sun. Personally, I own three trench coats – the first is a vintage coat in black from Burberry, the second is a light khaki/sand color, and the third is a darker khaki, also from Burberry. It may seem obvious, but bear in mind the lighter the color the more quickly it is stained. For that reason, I would never consider taking anything but a dark trench coat with me for travel purposes. Just like with any other garment, think about when and where you will wear it before you buy.

3. Raglan Sleeves

The raglan sleeve made its debut in the 19th century, and just like the Chesterfield coat, it owes it name to an aristocrat: FitzRoy Somerset 1st Baron Raglan.

As with many other garments, there are two stories here. During Waterloo, Lord Raglan injured his right arm that had to be amputated.

One source indicates that he requested a coat designed so he could dress more quickly. His tailor obliged and created a short coat with a simple diagonal sleeve seam setting that extended from the neck to the underarm, without a distinctive sleeve head.

Traditional 5×2 Double Breasted Trenchcoat with Raglan Sleeves

According to Graeme Fidler, Lord Raglan wanted to help soldiers to keep warm and hence devised a garment made from a potato sack, which was slit at the neck and slashed diagonally across the corners to allow the arms to move freely. Why anyone would want to imitate the style of a potato-sack coat, I have no idea, but there you have it.

In my personal experience, I haven’t noticed a huge difference in mobility between the two cuts. One might feel the difference in a bespoke trench, but off the rack, raglan armholes are often huge and don’t allow for more mobility.

Overall, I think mobility is more a question of proper tailoring than the choice of style. Of the two vintage Burberrys’ trenches I own, one has a regular sleeve and the other a raglan and to me they feel the same

Single breasted trench coat variation without Raglan sleeves by GG reader Malcolm Kindness

However, I would agree that it is easier to put on a raglan-sleeved coat, which was the original reason Raglan wanted such a coat (according to one story).

Again, the traditionalist would choose the raglan sleeve while I would council everyone else to take whatever fits best.

4. Double Breasted

By its military origin, a trench coat is traditionally double breasted and features ten buttons on the front. Of course, there are all kinds of double breasted and single breasted versions available with multiple button & belt configurations, but the first coat has always been the 5×2 DB cut. Personally, I much prefer the look of this silhouette over any others.

5. Epaulettes

The infamous shoulder tabs often seen on military uniforms also found their way on a trench coat, but they were not added merely to indicate rank. Much rather, they were used to secure gas masks, gloves, or whistles.

Gun Flap or Strom Patch on a Trench Coat

6. Gun Patch / Storm Flap

The gun patch fulfilled two functions. It could serve as a gun flap for the recoil of the rifle, but more importantly, it prevented rain water flowing down the shoulders from entering the inside of the gun. Personally, I rarely use this feature but it can never hurt, I suppose.

Collar Hook on a Burberry’s Trench Coat

7. Hook & Eye and Throat Latch

Just below the large collar, you will find a hook and eye that allows you to keep easily your collar closed up all the way. It is often secured with a strap and buckle system that is hidden underneath the collar – also known as a throat latch. I find it particularly useful to protect myself from cold winds in combination with a scarf.

8. Belt with D-Rings

Initially, the belt with its D-Rings was used to suspend items of equipment, such as grenades or even swords.

Belt with D-Rings, Leather Buckle & Storm Pocket

By time trench coat appeared, the sword was already merely decorative. Today, the belt enables you to create an attractive silhouette by defining the waistline. In theory, you could still use the D-Rings, though the belt loops might rip off rather quickly.

Trench Coat Throat Latch.

Button to Close the Wedged Vent

9. Sleeve Straps

The sleeve straps on the cuffs can be tightened to keep out the elements. I rarely tighten these buckles because it is a pain to get out of the coat after the fact, but I can see why they are useful for a cold and rainy day.

10. Deep Yoke Back Saddle

The deep back yoke allowed the water roll onto the floor rather than down the back of the wearer. This feature is not seen on many other garments and as such, it is unique to the trench.

11. Wedge Back

For soldiers to be able to move quickly, every trench coat had a vent. To keep you dry and warm, it was tailored with a wedge.

Trench Coat with High Collar, Deep Yoke Back, Belt with D-Rings & Wedged Back Vent

I can attest from personal experience, that wedged vents are great because they continue to block the wind and rain while allowing added movement. If you do not like the look of it, you can always button it up.

12. Through Storm Pockets

The storm pockets can be buttoned up from the outside to keep out the rain. All proper trench coats have through pockets than can be reached from the inside and outside. I like this feature when traveling because I can wear the coat buttoned or unbuttoned, and I always have access to my wallet, passport, etc.

Traditional Leather Buckled Sleeve Straps

13. Leather Buckles

Leather buckles were available back then, and I like the look of them though technically metal buckles would perform just as well, if not better in the long run. Since the buckles are often handled , leather is often worn in this location, especially on vintage garments.

14. Checked Lining

Through Pockets with Classic Burberry House Tartan

Traditionally, trench coats feature a checked lining. Burberry now offers six different checks in various sizes. The Equestrian Knight pattern is characteristic, but the classic house check is probably the most widespread for trench coats, and it features the tan, black, white and red tartan without any branding.

Aquascutum Club Check Lining “Club 92.”

Aquascutum introduced their hallmark club check lining “Club 92” in 1967, which is now also known as the Aquascutum Club.

For the cooler days, a removable wool lining can be attached with buttons (for coats with this option), which makes it all the more versatile. My old non-Burberry “Made in England” coat has a lovat green liner that is made of 95% wool with 5% camel hair, and I can recommend it.

15. Made in England

The original coats were made in England, but as you probably know by now, quality is not limited to a particular country, and you can find both crap and high quality just about anywhere.

Burberry makes most of their coats in Turkey nowadays and Aquascutum in Italy. Both are fashion brands, as is Mackintosh. Hancock provides rubberized coats, but I am sure a tailor could make them for you too. Burberrys’ Trench Coat from Pre 1999 were usually made in England but take a look at the buying section below for more details.

Trench Coat Fit

Steve McQueen in Blue Trench Coat 1963

Most trenches are not worn skin tight since they were worn over other garments, such as uniforms, suits, etc. Just like with any garment, you have to decide how you want to wear it.

If you wish to wear a suit underneath of it, bring a suit when you try coats on, and wear it both with and without your suit coat. Also, decide whether you want a detachable liner or not, as it is not easy to add one in after the fact.

The sleeve should reach to the root of your thumb, so your sleeves underneath are covered completely, and your shirt cuff remain out of view when you move around. Anything longer than that will make you look like you haven’t yet made it to the alterations tailor.

How To Choose the Right Trench Coat Length

Bear in mind, there is not one traditional length. Ads and pictures from back in the day range from above the knee to the mid-calf and sometimes even to the ankle.

The most versatile coats are worn at about knee length.

Short Men

Simply choose what feels right to you tough bear in mind that an ankle-length coat might be overwhelming for a smaller frame while an above-the-knee coat will help elongate your legs.

Tall Men

The opposite is true for taller men, who should avoid short coats that would only elongate the legs further.

I am 6′ / 183cm tall, and my Burberrys’ Trench coats reach just below the knee, and my third coat is knee length.  I probably prefer the below-the-knee versions, but that’s just personal taste.

Trench Coat Alterations

As with most garments on the rack, keep in mind that you can make them smaller by one or two sizes, but rarely bigger. Never have extreme alterations done since it will distort proportions of belt line, buttons, pockets, etc., and you will look unintentionally awkward, despite all your efforts.

Where to Buy a Trench Coat?

Basically, you have three options.

Aquascutum Kingsgate Trench Coat

1. Used coats. Old Burberrys’ or Aquascutum coats are the real deal and should last you for years, as I can attest, but it may be tedious or expensive to find one in good condition. I happened to spot my first one for 125 EUR in a men’s vintage store in Germany, so it’s worth investigating what you like and keep an eye for it. Alternatively, you can take a look on eBay, where you can always find a plethora of different trench coats.

2. Off the Rack. Obviously it is the easiest and quickest route to buy a new trench coat at a store. Burberry still carries their original styles, but it will set you back about $1800  or 750£ for Aquascutum. As I mentioned in the used section, they do tend to last, so they might be a good piece to invest in and treat with care. In any case, there is a good resale market for Burberry trenches. However, smaller companies like Francis Campelli, also produce quality garments according to our British readers.

3. Bespoke.  If your tailor can source the right kind of gaberdine and the wool liner as well as the pattern, a custom trench is certainly an option that is hardly more expensive than the established brands.

How To Buy A Used Burberry Trench Coat

Burberry is the most well-known brand when it comes to Trench Coats. Hence we pub together this mini-guide on How To Buy a Burberry Trench:

Not All Burberry Trenches Are Alike – Get A Burberrys’

It’s important to know that Burberrys to BURBERRY in 1999. Most gentlemen prefer the pre-1999 trench coats to post-1999 versions because they were almost completely made in England. Today, BURBERRY is more of a fashion brand than a provider of top quality garments.

Burberrys’ vs. BURBERRY

Fortunately, it’s very easy to distinguish the coats:

The pre-1999 trench coats have a label that reads Burberrys’ with an s  and  ‘  at the end. The font is usually white on a navy or dark blue label.

1. Trench coats with a BURBERRY label without the S are post-1999 and mostly made in Italy, Turkey, Malaysia.

Burberrys’ pre-1999 Made in England Label

Other Burberry Labels

Tom complicate matters, the company has a number of other labels which are also used for Trench Coats:

BURBERRY BLACK LABEL and  BURBERRY BLUE LABEL are made tailored for Japanese customers under license by Sanyo Shokai. While a few of them are made in Japan, the bulk of these trench coats is made in China. I would recommend you stay clear of those.

BURBERRY PRORSUM is the high-end label of the company. It is generally more fashion forward with a price tag to match. If you find one you like, go for it, though it has not much to do with the traditional British Trench Coat Burberrys’ was famous for.

Recommendation – go with pre 1999 Burberrys’

My favorite trench coats are the ones made pre 1999 with Burberrys’ labels. They are generally well made, last a long time and they are simply the real deal.

The details below pertain to these pre 1999 trench coats only!

Well fitting Trench Coat worn by Alain Delon

Sizing

The sizing of Burberry Trench coats can be very confusing. On top of that, trench coat cuts have varied over the years. Therefore it is extremely important to go by measurements especially if you buy a trench coat on eBay or online in general, because otherwise you may end up with something that looks like a potato sack.

Old Burberrys’ Trench Coats come in a rather unusual sizing system that is a mix between the U.S./UK sizing and continental European sizing. The size is always marked on a white size label inside the left pocket in the “NAME” field. Size 50 equals U.S./UK size 40. The additions of REG, S or L pertain to the length of the trench coat., For example tall people should usually go with a L or REG version but they  can still go with S if you prefer a very short trench coat. The problem might be that that sleeve length is not long enough. On the other hand, a short person may want to go with REG instead of S and have the coat and sleeves shortened. Always bear in mind that changing too much will make you look weird because the proportions of your garment will be off.

To help you find the right size, check out this table. Bear in mind that exact measurements are more accurate than any sizing!

Authentic or Fake Burberry?

Due to the popularity of the Trench Coat and the Burberry brand, you will occasionally counterfeited Burberry trench coats. Fortunately, most fakes are of low quality and relatively easy to spot. These are the things you should pay attention to:

1. Neat Stitching: Genuine Burberry trench coats feature neat seams and stitching. For example the belt loops are carefully reinforced with a little square stitch whereas fakes often feature sloppy stitching and little to no attention to detail.
2. Matching Nova Check Pattern: On genuine Burberrys’ Trench coats the Nova Check lining matches up neatly and it is always in the colors beige, white, black and red. Different colors or mismatched checks are a hallmark of fakes.
3. White Size Label: Genuine pre-1999 trench coats have a white label in the left pocket with a Name and Order field. The size is always in the Name field. On the liner, the size label is hidden underneath the navy blue Burberrys label. If you cannot find these labels and they were not removed, it is a fake.
4. Quality Gabardine Fabric: The Burberry Gabardine is very hard wearing and anything but flimsy. You can find it in 100% cotton, 51% Cotton 49% Polyester and 67% Polyester 33% Cotton. Every other compositions are not genuine.

When to Wear & When Not to Wear a Trench Coat?

Today, I would wear it for all kinds of daywear activities, except formal morning dress. It is appropriate with casual wear as well as business suits, and it is an ideal travel companion due to its moderate to light weight, water repellency, and versatility. Despite its manifold uses, please bear in mind that the trench coat is not appropriate for formal evening wear such as black tie or white tie.

Trench Coats

Conclusion

The trench coat remains a stylish raincoat for men and women alike despite its unmistakably military origins. It is versatile, tough-wearing and dashing if worn right. Because of its weight and detachable liner it can be worn during the spring and fall but also during mild or rainy winters. It is an ideal travel jacket that combines multiple coats in one. Before you buy one, think about where and how you will wear it and what style would look best on you. If you have any further questions, in case you think I missed something or if you know a great source for trench coats, please let us know.

Continuing our coverage of boots, we take up another very traditional style called the Chukka boot. Previously we covered Jodhpur and Chelsea boots, and while the two were similar in some respects, they were also distinctively different. The Chukka boots also share a few similarities with them.  In this case, the name ‘ Chukka’ itself is derived from the game of Polo and thus linking them, however superficially, to the Jodhpur boot that was designed specifically for Polo. Upon closer examination, the connections between the two become more perceptible.

How the Chukka Boots Got Their Name

The name ‘Chukka’ is said to be derived from the seven and a half minute Polo playing period called a Chukker or Chukka. The term is itself derived from the Hindi word ‘chukkar’ meaning ‘circle’ or ‘turn’. Because there are different variations of uppers, it is unclear what exactly the original version looked like and how it got its name. One school of thought argues that Chukka boots got their name due to the resemblance to boots worn by Polo players, i.e. Jodhpur boots.

Others believe Chukka boots were actually used to play Polo although there seems to be little evidence to support this theory. Chances are the name was derived from the similarities between the two boots. This is supported by the fact that Chukka boots were sometimes worn by off-duty Polo players who would slip into them after a game as they were more comfortable than riding boots.

Another interesting theory is the Indian use of the word ‘chukkar’, which is also used in the context of taking a leisurely stroll or ‘turn’.

Therefore, it could be entirely possible that the name was derived from the fact that the Polo players preferred to stroll around in these boots after a game rather than in their Polo boots.

Thus, the Chukka boot could be considered a descendant or relative of the polo boot! Whichever theory you may favor, Chukka boots have certain characteristics of their own.

Sanders Chukka Boots with red rubber sole

Chukka Boot Features

Because there are so many varieties, it is not entirely clear what a real Chukka boot is and what is not. However, in studying what shoe historian June Swann had to say about the boots and considering old pictures, a Chukka Boot has the following features:

Buckskin chukka boot

1. Lace up ankle boots. They reach the ankle and no further.
2. Two or three lacing eyelets; anything else is not a chukka boot
3. Traditionally made from calfskin suede leather
4. Rounded toe-box.
5. Two parts each made from a single piece of leather.
6. The quarters are sewn on top of the vamp.
7. Open lacing.
8. Thin soles.
9. Soles traditionally made of leather (crepe rubber soles were later worn with desert boots)
10. Historically unlined.

Suede chukka boots

History Of The Chukka Boot

Due to their similarities with the Jodhpur boot, their name and the fact that they were worn by off-duty polo players, it is safe to assume that the Chukka boot originated in India among the British army units that played the game and subsequently found its way to the west, much like the Jodhpur boot. The fact that the Chukka boot was first worn in the US in 1924 by the Duke of Windsor, who had previously visited India, played a little Polo and had acquired a few pairs of Chukka boots only adds credence to the story. Subsequently, the Duke wore them regularly, abetting their rise to become a staple in men’s shoe closets in the West. The British army origins are reinforced by the fact that the British army had as standard issue a type of Chukka boot worn in the desert campaign of World War II. These boots were known as Desert boots and had a crepe rubber sole instead of a leather sole. Whatever the precise nature of their origins the Chukka boots were designed to provide both comfort and a certain amount of style, and it was precisely because of these two qualities that they became extremely popular in the 1940s and 1950s. Chukka boots were considered a comfortable alternative to be worn as both casual and dress boots.

1930s Chukka boot with rubber sole that predated Clarks with yellow socks and green trousers

Desert Boots

In 1941, while deployed to Myanmar, Nathan Clark, the great grandson of James Clark (the creator of the shoe company Clarks), noticed the chukka boot variation with crepe soles and sent sketches back home. Originally, they were commissioned as a lightweight and comfortable boot with rubber soles and sand colored leather to be worn by soldiers in their downtime. At the time, the suede uppers and crepe sole were associated with footwear only lower classes would wear, and so the Clarks Desert boot was not launched until 1950. Sixty-three years later, it is probably the most common version of the Chukka boot. Priced between $60 – 150 the Clarks Original Desert Boot is popular with jeans or chinos. Frankly, I doubt the quality is what it used to be, but at that price you can’t ask for more. Because of its popularity, it comes in all kinds of leather and rubber colors or sometimes even fabric. Personally, I prefer elegant lasts with leather soles because the Clarks Desert boot reminds me too much of college, but if you have a more casual style, it might be the right choice for you.

Nathan Clark with his great Clarks Desert Boots on the Left

Chukka boots today

Chukka boots today have become far more versatile than the originals and have been stylized to suit the times. The differences in the finer style details of the boot today determine whether they are right for business or leisure.

1. Chukka boots now come in various leathers and fabrics. Synthetic fabrics, canvas, suede or faux leather / faux exotic skins Chukkas are suitable for work and casual occasions. Traditional leather Chukkas in brown suede and leather soles are suitable for casual outfits but personally, I also wear them with all kinds of blue suits.
2. Soles – the thinner the leather soles, the finer the boots, but overall Chukka boots will never be a go-to business shoe. However, they can be worn with suits on occasion.  The more casual Desert Boots often have thicker soles and rougher stitching, making them only suitable for casual wear.
3. Colors – although there are many color variations, Chukka boots should be brown. Personally, I prefer dark brown suede over tan, but each to his own. I also choose a lace color that matches the leather. Less formal Chukka boots often come with contrast stitching on the uppers but personally, I prefer it tone in tone so I can wear it more elegantly with a suit.

Style Advice

Chukka boots or Desert Boots are rather popular today, and there are many manufacturers of casual chukka boots and also bespoke versions of it. Considering the casual nature of the Chukka boot, I would never combine a crepe sole Chukka boot with dress pants or a suit. At the same time, an elegant Chukka boot can be paired like a suede shoe, and looks great with dress pants and suits. For example, I have an elegant pair of St. Crispin Chukka boots in mid brown suede leather that goes very with almost anything I wear.  The possibilities of incorporating them into one’s wardrobe are endless. Dress Chukka boots with thin leather soles on an elegant last in brown can be paired with a navy or mid-gray suits and a range of other colors and patterns. For details, please look at our How to Wear Brown Shoes Guide, which also applies to Chukka boots.

Suede Chukka Boots

Suede Chukka boots with crepe soles should only be worn with denim or chinos. Feel free to experiment with colorful and patterned socks. Alternatively, you can go with different suede colors such as blue or beige – the varieties are endless. Paired with an Oxford shirt and jeans or a polo shirt, they make for a good casual outfit. A brown pair goes well with autumnal trouser colors such as green, red and duskier yellows – again, experiment at your heart’s content. For an even more casual weekend look, go for Chukka boots in other materials like canvas. One can combine them with a favorite pair of old jeans and T- Shirt or khakis and a sweater. Stick to slim jeans to create a refined silhouette. The Chukka boot is a versatile boot can be worn in a variety of ways; you can use them to add variety to your wardrobe.

St. Crispin’s Chukka Boots with leather sole & lining

Buying Guide

There is a wide variety of Chukka boots available on the market from an equally wide number of manufacturers. In many cases, boots advertised as Chukka boots do not conform to the classic description of Chukkas. However one can use one’s discretion if you find a pair that may not be true in conventional sense but still suits your needs. Below is a list of a few reputable manufacturers.

This article is a result of the collaboration between Sven Raphael Schneider & Vikram Nanjappa.

This Guide to Worsted Wool is brought to you by Vitale Barberis Canonico, the largest producer of quality men’s suiting fabric in the world.

In Part I of our fabric series, we discussed woolen flannel and today the focus will be its counterpart: worsted wool. It is probably the most popular fabric for men’s suits in the world, and although many fabrics are technically worsteds, the differences in quality couldn’t be greater. The goal of the Guide to Worsted Wool is to help you understand everything about worsted wool so you can pick exactly the fabric that is right for your needs.

Fil à Fil PERENNIAL

What Is Worsted?

Worsted can describe a combed yarn, a fabric woven from combed yarn or a yarn weight. As a refresher, here is the difference between combed and carded yarns:

Before the fabric can be woven, the yarn is produced from raw wool.

1. With the help of rotating metal combs, all short staple wool fibers are discarded. The result is the so-called top, a semi-finished strip of long staple wool fibers
2. The top is further reduced in diameter
3. At this stage, it can be dyed as a whole or vigoureux printed
4. Now the wool can be spun into yarn by pulling and twisting the wool. By adjusting the pull, one can get lighter or heavier yarns whereas varying the twist will impact the look and feel as well as the strength of the yarn. Tight twisting provides a crisper feel, whereas loose twisting makes for a softer, weaker yarn
5. Excellent worsted yarns are made of tight crimping wool. Wool fibers are tightly crimped when the surface has many open scales, resulting in a uniform and durable yarn
6. The yarn is then woven into a fabric
7. Finally, the cloth is finished

Vitale Barberis Canonico is fully vertically integrated, which means they control all of the steps above as well as animal husbandry.  This allows them to tightly control the quality of the raw material and every step of the fabric production.

Navy Blue Revenge Pin Stripe with an unusual depth of color

Why Is It Called Worsted?

The name’s origin goes back to the 12th century, when the English city of Worstead in Norfolk, along with a few other cities in the area, became a manufacturing center of cloth weaving.

Is Lighter Worsted Better Than Heavy? No, Not Necessarily

Analog to the megapixel race for cameras, it seems like the market constantly demands lighter and softer fabrics. While a soft fabric feels pleasant on one’s skin, a heavy overcoat made of Donegal Tweed is often preferable to a fine, lightweight cashmere overcoat in terms of look and function.

It’s important to keep in mind that a lighter fabric with a higher SUPER Number is not a hallmark of a better fabric, it just indicates that the fibers used were thinner in diameter. The SUPER Number does not provide any information about the particular weave, whether 2-ply, 3-ply or 4-ply yarns were used for warp and weft, and it also does not tell you how heavy the fabric is.

GREENHILLS SUPER 160’s windowpane in blue

Nevertheless, fabrics today are usually lighter across the board than they were 30 or 40 years ago. Most worsteds today fall between a range of 180 – 300 grams per meter (6 – 10 oz) though for practical purposes 210 grams / 7 oz should be as low as you should go unless you are willing to compromise some of the characteristic robustness of a worsted fabric.

Lighter Fabric ≠ Cool Fabric

Most men today believe that a lighter fabric wears cooler and thus is more comfortable than a heavier fabric, but such generalizations are simply wrong. A relatively heavy, open weave fresco fabric feels much cooler and comfortable on a hot day than a tightly woven, lightweight super 150 fabric. Furthermore, the interlining and canvas of a jacket has a tremendous impact but that’s a subject for a different article.

Panama pin stripe – PERENNIAL

SUPER 100’s, 120’s, 150’s – The Numbers Explained

When you buy a suit or wool fabric, the chances are that you will see a SUPER Number advertised, and the higher the number, the more you are asked to pay. Unfortunately, this number does not help you to objectively compare fabric qualities across different manufacturers. To understand the meaning of the numbers, it is essential to understand the history behind it.

The Origins Of The SUPER Number

Up until the 18th-century British wool merchants would describe products with subjective terms such as Low, Medium, Fine, Super... Obviously, this was not objective enough and so wool merchants in the city of Bradford, England rated the quality of wool by estimating how many hanks could be spun by a skilled spinner from a pound of combed wool.  A hank was defined as a single strand yarn of 560 yards length.

This process became known as the English Worsted Yarn Count System or Bradford System.

The finer the average diameter of a single wool fiber, the more hanks could be spun. Normal wool yielded 44 hanks, which was classified as 44’s wool. Finer wool produced 64’s and the finest wool back then reached 80’s. Thus, the super number was born, though even back then the exact count depended on the evaluator and so it was never 100% accurate.

REVENGE in Prince of Wales checks with light blue overplaid

The SUPER System Gets Refined & Objective

On December 21, 1968, the U.S. Department of Agriculture issued the United States Standards for Grade Wool, which assigned ranges of average fiber diameter (AFD) and maximum standard deviation to each Bradford count. According to standards, Grade 80’s Wool had to have an average fiber diameter of 17.70 to 19.14 microns, inclusive, and a standard deviation in fiber diameter of 4.09 microns or less. Other commonly used numbers were  80s, 70s, 64s, 62s, 60s, 58s, 56s, 54s, 50s, 48s, 46s, 44s, 40s, and 36s.

SUPER Numbers Today

Through the breeding of sheep, it is possible today to get wool fibers of 14 microns and less, which is not even on the 1968 scale.  Therefore, many cloth weavers and suit makers have created their own SUPER number system. As a consequence, a SUPER 200’s fabric from one company can be considerably coarser or finer than from another.

Fortunately, weavers of quality wool cloth abide by the Fabric Labelling Code of Practice by the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO). This means you can compare SUPER numbers from Vitale Barberis Canonico with Holland & Sherry or Loro Piana, for instance.

Here are the exact definitions but bear in mind, that higher numbers don’t necessarily mean better fabric. It just indicates the fineness of the yarn diameter, but alone doesn’t indicate the quality. Naturally, the finer yarns are rarer than coarser yarns, and so quality weavers like Vitale Barberis Canonico ensure that they utilize only the best weaving and finishing techniques for their most precious fibers.

REVENGE – Double Twist In Navy Blue

The word Super (as in SUPER 100’s, for example) can only be used to describe fabrics made from pure new wool, and the “S” value is determined by, and must comply with the Maximum Fibre Diameter values, in the table below (micron and µ are the same thing):

SUPER “S” descriptions may also be used for fabrics made from wool blends with mohair, cashmere, alpaca and silk. Sadly, the super number can also be used if elasthane was added for stretch or if up to 5% non-wool yarn was added for decorative effects.

Super 100’s ≠ 100’s

Other blends than the ones mentioned above may not use the word SUPER “S” descriptions but it can be labelled as “S”. So, while a wool-cashmere blend can be called SUPER 100’s if the fiber is 18.75 µ in diameter or less, a wool-nylon blended fabric with the same fiber tickness could only be labelled as 100’s without the SUPER.

This is the case as long as the wool content is at least 45%.

Famous Worsted Patterns and Weaves

Since “worsted” only refers to the yarn that was used during the weaving process, a worsted can come in all kinds of weaves: plain weave, twill, barathea… The same is true for patterns. However, the most popular worsteds come in solid colors, stripes, Prince of Wales checks, sharkskin, needle head, and hopsack. All of these will be covered in a separate guide, so stay tuned!

ICONS By Vitale Barberis Canonico

Vitale Barberis Canonico produces a range of superb all-wool worsteds, and I would like to highlight 3 of my favorite picks from their ICONS Collection: Perennial, Revenge, and Greenhills

SUPER 110’s PERENNIAL double stripe

PERENNIAL – The Perfect Everyday Fabric For Business Suits

The word “perennial” refers to feeling at ease in any season and in any situation and therefore, it is the perfect name for this range of fabrics. Made of SUPER 110’s wool in 260 grams / approx. 9 oz in classic patterns, it was designed to be worn during three seasons. Paired with an unbeatable price, it’s not surprising that the PERENNIAL is VBC’s best selling range. Its key features are:

1. Classic & timeless designs
2. Fabrics for suits, pants, sport coats & blazers
3. Hard wearing 3-season cloth that can also be worn during mild summers.
4. SUPER 110’s quality with an average diameter of 18 µ at 260 grams per meter.

REVENGE Classic stripes in gray

REVENGE – Top Quality Worsteds With A Twist

The Revenge is a step up from the Perennial collection both in quality and price. Although the sheer SUPER 150’s number might not sound overly impressive, the secret to REVENGE is in the yarn. It all starts with a small selection of carefully bred Australian sheep, which produce just about 11,000 bales a season, most of which are bought by Vitale Barberis Canonico. Then this wool is spun into 2-ply yarns that are used for warp and weft, which is something other mills don’t offer. The advantage is four-fold: it produces a more uniform, resistant and softer yarn with better depth of color due to the use of two different colors in the yarn itself. It is one of the finest suitings you can buy.

1. SUPER 150’s with 2-ply Warp & Weft
2. Softer yet harder wearing than PERENNIAL fabrics
3. Exceptional depth of color

Greenhills pinstripe blue

GREENHILLS – The Finest Range Of Worsteds

GREENHILLS represents the pinnacle of fabrics VBC has to offer today. It is named after the company owned Greenhills farm in Mudgee, New South Wales, Australia where climate and soil allow breeding of the very best sheep on the market. The wool for this range of fabric comes from the Saxon Merino sheep which only yields 6kg of wool per year, just a third the amount regular merino sheep produce. The goal of the GREENHILLS range is to produce a divine fabric with a velvety soft hand, and although it could be spun finer than Super 160’s, Vitale Barberis Canonico decided not to do so to preserve the quality of the final product.

1. Made of tight crimping wool of Saxon Merino Sheep – the absolute best of the best
2. Super 160’s – the finest quality VBC offers today

Where To Buy Vitale Barberis Canonico Fabric?

The PERENNIAL range of fabrics is used in many off the rack, made-to-measure and bespoke suits today. It’s not always advertised as such, but it pays to ask the seller or manufacturer about it. Whenever you see the Perennial label or the VBC logo, you can rest assured that you get a quality product.

The REVENGE is harder to come by, and the GREENHILLS is even rarer.

In case you want to buy your own fabric, the Bolognese fabric store Draper’s sells VBC fabrics directly to consumers in their online shop. What you can see online is just a selection, and you can call in if you are looking for something specific.

At the same time, you should be able to buy all of their fabrics via the bespoke tailor of your choice.

Today, I would like to continue our overcoat series with the iconic Peacoat – also referred to as Pea Coat – by explaining the history of this utterly classic garment, its developments in the UK, the US and other countries, as well as provide advice for the right cut, fabric and buttons so you can make an informed decision about your own peacoat purchase.

Watch the Video, and please give us a thumbs up and share it if you like it!

Peacoat History

Peacoat around 1900

Unlike the more defined history of the Trench Coat, the origins of the peacoat are more ambiguous. However, there are several differing versions of the peacoat story out there, so I will share them here to see which one makes the most sense to you. Like many garments, the history of the peacoat may not be exact, but it has certainly left an indelible impression upon classic fashion.

The Dutch Version

The Oxford Dictionary dates the origin of the pea jacket or peacoat to the early 18th century, claiming that it was probably derived from the Dutch word pijjakker, from “pij” for ‘coat of coarse cloth’ + jekker for ‘jacket’. The change from “jekker” to “jakker” was due to association with a jacket, as described by the dictionary. Since the Dutch were a naval power back in the day, and the peacoat is commonly associated with seafaring, it does not seem far-fetched that the jacket was in fact from the Netherlands.

The UK Version

Winston Churchill in Reefer Coat with Horizontal Pockets

According to Camplin, one Mr. Edgard Camplin founded a store in 1850 in which he sold uniforms to the British navy. Apparently, he sold particularly well in India, starting in 1888.  After that, Mr. Camplin supposedly suggested – at an unknown date – to create a coat for the uniform of petty officers, who had the same uniform as sailors up until then. Instead of the officer’s great coat, the Camplin designed the Petty Coat, which was also known as a P. Coat,  which was then popularized as Peacoat for phonetic reasons. Personally, I find this theory questionable because it does not name any sources or dates.

The Reefer Version

Young Sailor in Reefer Jacket with Horizontal Pockets

It seems safe to say that the US Navy adopted the Peacoat from the Royal British Navy. Some claim the peacoat as we know it today was originally designed for “reefers”, which were the sailors who had to climb the riggings of sailing ships.

Hence, we also have to term reefer coat, which describes a double breasted navy coat that is close fitting and short to allow the wearer to climb the ropes.

This theory seems to make sense, but, unfortunately, it lacks historic evidence.

Tailor & Cutter Version

Prince of Wales Pea Jacket 1869

The Tailor & Cutter used to be the leading tailor trade magazine in England in the 19th century. It was published weekly and in addition to focusing on tailoring and cutting, it also featured fashion trends and etiquette. For example, if people began wearing new styles, Tailor & Cutter would comment on the clothing, which was particularly true for anything a Royal wore. In an issue from October 1868, they report about the so-called “the Prince of Wales Jacket” emerged, which characterized it as a loose double breasted jacket with three pairs of buttons, two cross pockets, and wide piping. When intended for rough use, the coat was made of blue pilot-cloth lined with wool. For town wear, it was made of blue witneyor another soft material with silk-faced lapels and a velvet collar. It was tailored with or without a back-seam and with short vents at the bottom. The illustration is from 1869 and describes it as a “Prince of Wales pea-jacket”. Chances are, the PoW was not the inventor, but rather he popularized it – in any case this magazine from that time proves that the pea jacket existed in 1869.

Peacoat in 1884

The Cut of a Peacoat

The peacoat of the late 19th century was close fitting with a bit of a flair line on the hips so that the reefers could climb the ropes. It is cut slightly longer than a regular jacket, but it remains shorter than a greatcoat to accommodate the specific job tasks of its wearers.

Peacoat Cordage

The over-sized Ulster collar can be buttoned up to the seventh button to protect the wearer from the elements. If sailors wore many layers underneath, they were sometimes unable to button that 7th button and so they used cordage.

The very first peacoats seem to have had short side vents or no vents, whereas current US Navy peacoats feature a center vent. The vertical slit pockets were designed for easy access, and they usually also feature a little change pocket on the inside because US Navy pants did not have pockets. On the inside, you will find two pockets on either side for storage of your wallet, etc.

Peacoat Vertical Pockets and Buttons

Without any belts in the back or buttons on the sleeve cuffs, a peacoat is a rather simple and mostly functional garment.

British Pea Coat Anatomy with Cordage & Buttons

Today, the US Navy provides the following features for a peacoat:

• Males:  A double-breasted, hip length coat made of dark blue authorized fabric with a convertible collar, a set-in pocket in each forefront, and a single row of four 35-line black plastic anchor buttons down the right front and three on left.  Men’s peacoat buttons to the right. 

• Females:  A double-breasted, hip length coat made of dark blue authorized fabric with a convertible collar, shoulder epaulets, a set-in pocket in each fore­front, and a single row of four 35-line black plastic anchor buttons down the left front and three on right.  Women’s peacoat buttons to the left.  Women may wear either the men’s peacoat (without epaulets) or the women’s peacoat (with epaulets) as long as serviceable.
  

• Correct Wear: Button all buttons except collar button.  Collar button may be buttoned in inclement weather.  Wear the jumper collar inside the coat.  Sleeves are to reach about three-quarters of the distance from the wrist to the knuckles when arms hang naturally at the sides.

• Ownership Markings: Center last name and last four digits of SSN three inches from and parallel to the bottom edge of the peacoat.

Peacoat Fabric

Today, the US Navy peacoat is made of a midnight blue 24 oz / 750 grams Melton of 80% wool and 20% artificial fibers. Traditionally, it was made of 100% Kersey wool, just like the Melton for the British Warm. As pointed out above, the pilot fabric was a choice and later 100% wool Melton or Kersey was used, often in weights up to 34 oz. / 1050 / grams per yard / meter. Today, you can still find 100% wool melton fabrics, but usually not heavier than 24 oz, which is a shame because the heavier fabrics wore quite warm in my opinion. If you can, get a heavy weight vintage coat, though good examples in decent shape are few and far between. If you opt for a modern version, skip the nylon and polyester blends and invest a bit more.

Occasionally, you will also find peacoats made in different materials such as canvas, cotton or nylon, but technically, these are not peacoats anymore.

Brass Officer’s Peacoat Button

Buttons of a Peacoat

Throughout history, peacoats had a varying number of front buttons. During WWI they often had 10 buttons, later 8 and now mostly 6 with one hidden button under the right collar.

Today, US Navy peacoats feature large (35-ligne) thick black plastic buttons. Imprinted on the front is a “fouled anchor” design, which refers to the traditional image of an anchor wrapped in a rope. Apparently, the tradition of this logo dates back to the personal seal of Lord Howard of Effingham, the Lord High Admiral of England, when the British defeated the Spanish Armada in 1588. Following the victory, the design was then adopted as the official seal of the Lord High Admiral of Great Britain.

Black Anchor Peacoat Buttons of US Navy

Every once in a while, you will also see gold brass buttons on a midnight blue peacoat. Traditionally, officers, warrant officers or chief petty officers could upgrade their peacoats with these buttons.

Starting in the early 20th century,  peacoat buttons featured the large fouled anchor in the center with a ring of 13 stars surrounding it, spaced along the edge of the button face. At that time, the coat was also longer and had two additional horizontal pockets.

By the 1920s, peacoats had the buttons that are used today, but in the 1970’s Admiral Elmo Zumwalt had these buttons replaced with 40-ligne (1″) metal buttons that looked identical to the gold ones worn by officers, with the exception that they had a pewter color.

The pewter “Zumwalt” buttons do have an anchor in the design, but only as a perch for a large eagle; they also feature a small stack of cannonballs. In 1984, the pewter buttons disappeared again, and  “traditional” fouled anchor buttons returned.

While variants of the peacoat are used by many navies, and most use buttons with some variant of the fouled anchor design (with a crown, if the country is a kingdom), it is also true that many of these buttons are of brass, gold plated or not; or of anodized aluminum (“Stabrite”).  Sometimes the buttons are of black plastic or horn, but with metal shanks rather than four holes for sewing.

Pewter Button US Navy 1974 – 1984

Some will argue that an authentic US Navy peacoat must have the black anchor plastic buttons, but you should bear in mind that as a civilian, you can wear whatever you want. For example, I think it looks great with gold buttons, pewter buttons, horn buttons or mother of pearl buttons.

Personally, I have an original US Navy 100% wool officer’s peacoat with gold buttons from the 1980’s.

Where & How to Buy a Peacoat

If you want to buy a US Navy Peacoat, you can either buy a new one or a vintage one. As I mentioned before, the current offerings often have nylon blended into the fabric and are thinner while older versions in good shape are not easy to find. But no matter what you buy, the sizing has to be right to look good.

Vintage Looking Camplin Peacoat

Sizing

Traditionally peacoats are worn fitted, but not so tight that the vent gaps or you have wrinkles when buttoning the coat. Of course, you can wear a coat, however, wide you want. To find the right size for you, you have to determine how you like the fit of your peacoat and physically measure your chest with a measuring tape.

Vintage WWII Peacoat Tag

For example, my chest is 44 inches, and I wear a 42L peacoat, which measures 45 inches in the chest. I am 6 ft tall with long arms, which is why I opted for the long version rather than the regular model. I do have enough space to wear a thick sweater or even a jacket underneath of it. In case you want to wear less, you should size down by more than two inches. If you like it roomier size up – it’s that simple.

Vintage Peacoats

Older peacoats were generally cut a little trimmer:  WWII coats were the most fitted ones.

The models from the 1950’s and 1960’s were already a littler bigger, and the 1970’s version is once again bigger but a bit slimmer than the 1980’s versions. The current model is cut the widest. With a WWII coat, a 44L would probably be as wide as  1980’s 42 L.

WWII Vintage Pea Coat

Sometimes, older coats do not have size measurements and in general, I would always go with measurements instead of sizes. Back length, sleeve length, shoulder width and chest width and maybe the waist should be enough to determine whether it will fit or not. Of course, if you have sloping shoulders or a round back it may not fit you, but an alterations tailor should be able to help you if these primary measurements are correct.

Storm Flap Underneath Collar of WWII Peacoat

Sources for Vintage Coats

Ebay probably offers the largest selection of vintage peacoats, but if you live in the US, consignment stores may also offer one every once in a while. I put together a collection of 60+ peacoats here so take a look.

New

There are some other clothing companies that offer peacoats, but most have added their own design influences. For a peacoat with an authentic cut in 100% wool,  I would buy the Navigator from Sterlingwear of Boston, which produces peacoats for members of the US Navy. Since they produce so many of them, they can offer this 24oz wool melton version for just $265.

Peacoat in Orange Canvas by Camplin

If you are not concerned about authenticity, the peacoat from Camplin (now Italian-owned) may be the right choice for you. They come in various colors, but they also cost two and a half times as much as the US-made ones.

Army-Navy surplus stores are likely to have the modern wool-synthetic blends; online surplus stores (examples here and here) also carry a variety of peacoats. While these are very affordable, and they come in thick 32 oz melton fabric, they are made out of reprocessed wool and nylon fibers, with polyester padding and quilted nylon lining, which is simply unacceptable to me.

Of course, all the fashion brands like Burberry, Aquascutum carry what they call Pea Coats but they are not the real deal. Even houses like Gieves & Hawkes only offer Made in Italy interpretations of the original with flap pockets and cashmere blends… If you like the look of these coats, wear them but these are not peacoats.

Mid Brown Corduroy Pocket Lining in WWII Peacoat

How to Date Your Vintage Peacoat

If you came into possession of a vintage peacoat and you wonder how old it is, or you just want to know when certain details like mid brown corduroy lined pockets were available.

Peacoats From WWI

Peacoats have been around for longer, but it is difficult to find older pictures. As you can see the Peacoat had 10 or more buttons, and they were longer. It featured handwarmer pockets as well as flapped pockets. The original buttons featured an anchor with 13 stars around them, and the color was midnight blue. So it should be very easy to date a WWI peacoat if you find one.

Peacoats From WWII

Compared to the WWI peacoats, the hand warmer pockets were placed a bit lower, and the flap pockets disappeared, but it still maintained the 10 button front. The buttons changed considerably and now featured the fouled anchor you may be familiar with today. At the same time, the stars were removed.

The outer shell was still 100% midnight blue Kersey wool, and the pockets were lined with tan or light brown corduroy and inside the chest pocket you could find a label stating “Manufactured By NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY.”

The fit of WWII peacoats was very tight compared to the ones that followed.

WWII ERA Peacoat

Peacoats Post WWII

Traditionally, the peacoat had 10 buttons, 8 of which were visible. Sometime after the war the number was reduced to 8 with just 6 visible ones and eventually, just 7 with 6 visible ones.

Because of the reduction in buttons, the lapel got slightly bigger, and you could now see more of the chest or tie. Of course, you could still button it up all the way to keep you warm when needed. Up until the 1970s the 100%, Kersey wool remained unchanged. At some point after that, poly blended wool was offered. The style of the coat was maintained between 1946–1979, though the tags were often different, thus making it difficult to date.

However, little details changed. For example in 1968, the corduroy pocket lining was substituted with a soft blue, white, off-white cotton lining.

From 1974 to 1984 the buttons were exchanged once again, so the shape would match the gold bridge coats but the color was pewter. In 1984, the black fouled anchor button was reintroduced but the bridge coats kept their gold buttons.

During that same period,  Melton was introduced along with some other changes.

Peacoats Today

Peacoats today are manufactured by Sterlingwear of Boston, who also offer a civilian version in black. They make a decent quality military peacoat from the Melton wool, but you might want to go with an original instead. For even more details about dating a vintage peacoat, you should take a look here.

6×3 Double Breasted US Navy Pea Coat

Conclusion

In the end, the peacoat is a classic, functional closet staple that has been around for more than a century. The original midnight blue version with black anchor buttons is certainly the most popular, but nowadays you do have a choice of different materials and colors. No matter whether you go vintage or new, a peacoat is ideal when you want to keep warm but a long overcoat would be too formal and a puffy down jacket à la Moncler is simply not your style.

What peacoats do you own? Please share your pictures with us and let us know what your favorite looks like, thanks!

In continuation of our coverage of boots, we now take a close look at the Chelsea boots. In the previous article of this series, we covered the Jodhpur boots, which are quite similar in some respects, yet distinctively different in others. While the Jodhpur boot is relatively unknown to the general public, the Chelsea boot has become a staple of a Gentleman’s wardrobe.

Video

Check out our Chelsea Boots Video, and give us a thumbs up if you like it!

History

The boots that are now known as the Chelsea boot have Victorian roots. The design and invention of the Chelsea boot is attributed to J. Sparkes-Hall, boot maker to Queen Victoria. However, he would not have been successful without the development of vulcanized rubber.

J.-Sparkes-Hall Elastic Ankle Boots from 1851

In 1839, Charles Goodyear, an American inventor, developed a process to vulcanize rubber in Springfield, Massachusetts, which was patented in 1844. The same year, the British  Thomas Hancock claimed to have also invented vulcanization independently for which he received a British Patent in 1844. Whoever created it, for the purpose of this article it is important to know that vulcanized rubber played a crucial role in the design of the Chelsea boot, because it allowed the create a boot that could be easily slipped on and off.

J.Sparkes-Hall was the first to design a vulcanized rubber – or shall we say ‘elastic’ – sided ankle boot. In the patent that he filled in 1851, he claimed, “She (Queen Victoria) walks in them daily and thus gives the strongest proof of the value she attaches to the invention.” These Elastic sided ankle boots eventually came to be called Chelsea boots.

Chelsea Boot Styles in 1896

Characteristics of Chelsea Boots

1. Ankle length.
2. Have rounded toes.
3. Low heels.
4. Two parts each made from a single piece of leather: the vamp and the quarters.
5. The vamp and the quarters meet near the ankle where they are joined by a strip of vulcanized rubber or elastic.
6. The strip of elastic extends to just below the ankle but not all the way down to the sole (just above the welt).
7. The vamp and quarters are not sewn one on top of the other. Instead, they are sewn together in one plain below the ankle.

While the Chelsea boots share their first four characteristics with the Jodhpur boots, the remaining three distinguish them from the Jodhpur boots.

Beatles in Chelsea Boots

How the Chelsea Boots got their name

According to J. Sparkes-Hall, the Chelsea boot was initially used by both men and women as walking shoes. Some sources state that they were initially used for horse riding; however, riding breeches in those days were designed to be worn with tall boots. Ankle boots, on the other hand, were a dominant form of men’s daytime footwear, and it is thus safe to conclude that the Chelsea boot was first used for walking and then made the transition to riding.

Some even claim they were referred to as Paddock boots at one point in time. In any case, the style remained a staple until WWI. In the mid-1950s, a group consisting of young artists, film directors, and socialists started frequenting the King’s Road area in West London. This group was named the ‘Chelsea Set’ by the media, and they made the name ‘Chelsea’ synonymous with a new way of living and dressing. This group, which included well-known fashion icons Mary Quant and Jean Shrimpton, started favoring the Paddock boots and soon they began to be considered the ultimate leisure accessory and hence were renamed to Chelsea Boots.

Continued Journey

London’s theatrical shoemakers, Anello & Davide, re-interpreted the Chelsea boot in the early 1960s by fitting it with a Cuban heel. Their version was known as the ‘Baba boot’ and entered the world of rock & roll.  As was expected, their popularity skyrocketed. The main reason for this was the fact that The Beatles were very often seen wearing them. Legend has it that John Lennon and Paul McCartney each bought a pair at Anello’s shop at 96 Charing Cross Road on the way back to Liverpool from Paris in October 1961. In 1962, George Harrison and Ringo Starr joined them and paired with suits so they would look like a uniform. Soon they came to be known as ‘the Beatle boot’.

It was also during this time when the image-conscious Mods started wearing tailored suits, drove customized scooters, and wore Chelsea boots. It is quite difficult to ascertain exactly why Chelsea boots were considered the height of Mod fashion, but it is thought that apart from well-known rock and roll bands ( The Rolling Stones wore them as well), French and Italian cultural influences combined with the popular American greaser look played a significant role. Interestingly, the character Steed from the sixties TV Series Avengers would always wear Chelsea boots, not matter whether it was a combination, three piece suit with a bowler hat or a tuxedo.

In the 1970s, the Chelsea boot made what most would consider a most unexpected appearance in the most famous science fiction franchise of all time: George Lucas’s Star Wars trilogy! They made an appearance in all three original films as the shoes worn by the stormtroopers of Darth Vader’s Empire. The only change being that they were stained white to fit into the futuristic look.

Chelsea Boots Today

The Chelsea boots today are extremely popular due to their simplistic and classic look.  They can be dressed up, down, and then back again very easily. Chelsea boots give a man timeless charm and signals heritage – some would even say old fashion alpha male power.

Buying Guide

Before spending a decent amount of money on a pair of Chelsea boots, it is essential to make sure that one gets the genuine article. Here are a few things that you need to take a close look at before making a purchase:

1. The Chelsea boot is a close fitting boot and the flexibility is in the side panel and not in the instep. It is, therefore, essential to get the correct size to match your foot. It is best to try them out rather than rely on standard shoe size charts.
2. Some boots fastened with a zipper, rather than the traditional elastic, are sold as Chelsea boots. Strictly speaking, these are not Chelsea boots.  As there are a lot of variations being sold as Chelsea boots, check the characteristics enumerated in the article before purchasing.
3. Traditional Chelsea boots have leather soles, and these should be your preferred choice. Some manufactures offer a choice of soles to suit various needs. Stick to leather for a classic look.
4. Uppers should also be made of box calf leather though suede is an acceptable alternative.
5. Most Chelsea boots come in black with a leather lining. While Jodhpur boots are great in brown, Chelsea boots look better in black. Get these basics first and if you like the style so much, you can get whatever you want.
6. Last, but not least, is the quality of the elastic fastening. This is the defining character and an integral part of its shape. The quality of the elastic is important for the shape, comfort, and longevity of the boots.

Gaziano Girling Wholecut Chelsea Boots in action

Style advice

Chelsea boots are extremely versatile and can be worn with both formal and casual outfits. Most men will like the fact that they can combine the same pair of boots with jeans or a suit. Their simple and clean lines compliment most outfits.

Chelsea boots have been featured in the collections of most leading designers, and you should feel free to experiment with whichever style you are comfortable with. Although chunky, thick soled Chelsea boots are available, slim soled styles are preferable

Chelsea Boots Colors

• Brown suede is great for a country look (make sure to avoid suede if you live in an area where it rains a lot)
• Black is preferable for an urban look
• Burgundy is good all-around option
• Tan can look stunning, especially with a nicely polished patina
• Exotic colors like blue, green, yellow or red can work if you want to make a statement

How To Combine Chelsea Boots

Black Chelsea boots – Dark suits. Flat front trousers in combination with a dress shirt and a sport coat in flannel or worsted. Fitted Chino pants matched with a dress shirt and a navy blazer.

Brown Chelsea Boots – Suits in medium and lighter colors and various fabrics including tweed. Straight leg jeans, with casual or dress shirt or a Polo shirt. You can also replace your regular brown shoes in both your existing outfits.

Burgundy Chelsea Boots – Probably the most versatile color, meaning you can wear them with almost anything.

Wingtip / Captoe Chelsea Boots – A bit more casual than plain Chelsea boots. These can be worn both jeans and suits, depending on the color. It is best to team them with a Hacking Jacket or a tweed sports coat to compliment the wingtips.  This is more of a country look, and this type of Chelsea boot will stand out from the rest.

Short Chelsea boots – Theses are a little different from the regular Chelsea boots in that they are slightly shorter in length coming up to just below the ankle. This is a trendy style, that works best with more fashion forward outfits.

Bulky Chelsea boots – Some styles can be a bit bulky. This kind can be teamed with boot cut jeans due to their size, and rugged clothing for an outdoorsy look. Not appropriate for suits or sport jackets.

Buying Guide

Below, you’ll find a list of 13 manufacturers of Chelsea boots starting at $200. While most of them are RTW, some also offer made to order programs, where you can choose the leather, elastic color, sole and sometimes also your last. If you know of a quality Chelsea boot manufacturer that is not listed here, please let us know and we will complete it.

Although it is still cold outside in most parts of the northern hemisphere, you may already yearn for sunny spring days and with it a change of wardrobe. While a trench coat is often the right topcoat, the shorter quilted jacket is also a favorite companion for the outdoors during spring. No matter whether you are in the city running errands, or if you go fishing and hunting in the country, quilted jackets are nearly always

appropriate. Hence, I would like to elaborate on this outer garment today, starting with its history, followed by a picture series of different variations and finally, a how-to-buy guide so you can find the perfect jacket for you.

Quilted Jacket Video

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Double quilted jacket in wool

History of Quilted Jackets

Before I focus on the quilted jacket as we know it today, it is important to understand what quilting is and how it developed.

Historic Quilted under armor

Terminology

Quilting refers to any run of stitching – either decoratively or just in a straight run – that combines at least two layers of cloth. Often, you will find a third padding layer or interlining between the fabric, which provides the popular, three-dimensional look on diamond quilted jackets. The term ‘quilt’ seems to have originated in England in the 12th century and derives from the Latin word cucita, which means cushion or bolster.

Quilt History

Although quilting became particularly popular in the 17th century, its roots go back to the middle ages. Interestingly, it was not just used in Europe, but also in India and the Far East. In the beginning, quilting was mostly used for bed covers but also for clothing that was supposed to be light weight and insulating at the same time. Technically, the advantage of layering is the addition of trapped air that acts as an insulator; quilting also keeps insulating material such as down from moving around. Apart from that, it was also used under armor to make the metal suits more wearable. People who could not afford a suit of armor would often just wear the quilted undergarment.

Steve Guylas & the Husky Quilted Jacket

Considering the long-standing tradition of quilting, it seems surprising that the quilted jacket as we know it today was just invented in 1965 by Steve Guylas and his wife, Edna. Mr. Guylas was born in Pennsylvania and retired from the  US Air Force in 1960 with an eye disease, and so he felt that the only thing left for him was to become a business owner. Since he was an anglophile, he moved with his wife to England, where he started three businesses: First,  Husky Ltd in Tostock, Suffolk (which later became Husky Inc.) produced thermal outerwear and the infamous quilted jackets that he even supplied to the British Royal family. Second, Husky Riding Center Ltd. just outside of London, which served as an indoor jumping center and lastly, a tackle shop.

All of the Guylas businesses started with the name Husky. As a country, fishing and hunting enthusiast Guylas would go out with his husky dog for a walk and hence he chose the name.

The first quilted garment Guylas designed was a waterproof, quilted vest made of polyester for shooting. It soon became popular with his club colleagues, and so he made a quilted jacket. Initially, they were only available in pale olive green and navy blue, but with increasing demand, the product portfolio grew as did the color palette for the jackets. Probably the most important factor in popularizing the jacket was the British Royal family. The Queen would wear a quilted husky jacket with a brown corduroy collar for riding, and soon celebrities in Britain and Europe followed. In the 1980’s it also became a wardrobe staple of the Sloane Rangers in the UK and then swapped over to the US.

Steve Guylas, inventor of the quilted jacket with his son

In the 1980’s Guylas moved back to the US and operated an English Antique business out of the Evergreen Plantation in Duncan, South Carolina together with his wife and son Steve Guylas Jr. In the 1990’s he sold Husky to the Italian Saviero Moschillo, who now produces the Husky jackets.

The Original Husky Jacket

The original Husky jacket was all made in Tostock, England of 100% Nylon with polyester filling! It was very basic, with a square rather boxy cut, single breasted, with five snap buttons (pressed studs) on the front; side vents could be closed with snap buttons as well. It featured two angled patch pockets and a corduroy collar and pocket trims. Later, there was also a collarless version with corduroy trim on the outside, and the inside was not lined.

The sleeve ends features flexible cuffs that grip your wrists tightly to keep out the cold air.

Where & How to Buy Quilted Jackets

Obviously, the first choice would be to go with a jacket from the original manufacturer. However, since the company has been sold, you can only snatch the originals in second-hand shops or on eBay. Every once in a while, you can find a new one but chances that it fits and is a color you like are slim. Furthermore, an original was constructed of 100% nylon with polyester filling, which isn’t very desirable.

Wool quilting details on a Lavenham Jacket

Luckily, there are probably hundreds of companies out there that manufacture a version of the quilted jacket. Now, with so many options, I would like to help you find the jacket that meets your needs.

The British Ones

The closest you will get to the original Husky jacket is probably a Denham jacket from Lavenham, which is still made in Suffolk or a Liddesdale or New Eskdale from Barbour. Although not the same as the original Husky, the overall look and weight are very similar. They are based on quilting riding blankets from the 1970’s, showerproof but not bulky and hence a good companion when traveling. Both companies offer a range of other quilted jackets, with shoulder pads, zips, etc. but most of them are made from polyamide. You may also find some in leather. Lavenham has a vintage collection that uses wool, tweed and cord and lately they also experimented with some Casentino cloth. Due to the increased material price, these jackets are more expensive than the regular polyamide models.  I think a wool coat is generally of better quality but also heavier than a polyamide version.

The Quilted Jacket Guide

If you want the classic look paired with a lighter weight, I think these are good options. Barbour also offers more contemporary colors such as light blue and red. Apart from that, John Partridge may also be of interest to you.

Quilted canetino vest in orange

In case you prefer a little more fashion forward look you can go with Burberry or Aquascutum. Be prepared to pay more, especially in the case of Burberry, but they also offer wax cotton, suede, leather versions, etc.

If you are a genuine hunter or into bargains, you may want to look at Toomer Bros. Although Hackett has that quintessential British modern style, it is actually Spanish these days, and for the price they charge, you can find more value from other brands.

Vedoneire from Ireland produces good quilted jackets starting at around $100.

The Italian Options

To this day, Italians – especially the Milanese – have a great appreciation for quilted jackets.When you are strolling around on a rainy day in spring or fall, you can see these jackets everywhere. Hence, it is not surprising that Husky was bought by an Italian company. So clearly they are an option, but only readily available when you are in Milan. Loro Piana offers a more luxurious quilted jacket as a part of their storm system, which is made of polyester and polyurethane with a lining of 100% cashmere. Such jackets go for over $1000, even when on sale.

A less expensive alternative comes from Boggi in Milan, but it is not available in their online store at the moment.

Valstar usually carries quilted jackets as well although they are a little pricey.

Of course, you can also find all kinds of fashion forward leather jackets with quilting from various manufacturers but this is not what this article is about.

Quilted Jackets in the US

Quilted leather jacket by Paul Stuart

Of course, you can also find quilted jackets in the US. Ralph Lauren offers them every once in a while and so do Brooks Brothers. Orvis offers a quilted jacket in suede leather, as well as regular quilted jackets. Original Montgomery is better known for Duffle Coats, and so they also offer a quilted jacket with toggles. Ted Baker offers a quilted jacket without snap buttons but at the price of $369, you can probably get better value elsewhere.

Ralph Lauren Richmond Quilted Jacket

Sizing

Most quilted jackets are cut a little roomier than a sport coat, but I would always refer to the manufacturers sizing table. Of course, you should also determine how you are going to use the jacket – just over a sweater or also over a sport coat. If the latter is the case, make sure the arms and body are long enough.

Conclusion

Quilted jacket with brown leather trims

The quilted jacket is versatile, shower proof, warm and hence a great companion for traveling, driving and outdoor use. The original Husky version is not available anymore, but there are plenty of other manufacturers that offer a very similar product.

Basic versions are made of polyamide and will cost about $150. If you want corduroy or wool (blend) version, be prepared to spend about twice as much. Suede versions will cost considerably more as will cashmere linings etc. If you are happy with solid khaki, navy or brown, you should have no problem to find a quilted jacket at a local haberdasher or country outfitter. For different colors and materials, you will probably have to order online.

If you know of any good manufacturers that we have not listed here, let us know, thank you.

Mohair is one of those terms that few people know, yet it will put a smile on the face of every men’s clothing aficionado. But what exactly is it that makes Mohair so special? In today’s guide, we’ll answer this question as well as share this remarkable fabric’s history and characteristics. 

This guide is brought to you by Vitale Barberis Canonico, the weaver of the best quality mohair fabrics in the world.

White Angora Goat

What is Mohair?

“Mohair” refers to the fibre, yarn and fabric made of the hair of the Angora goat, which is not to be confused with the Angora rabbit. The goat is named after the Turkish capital of Ankara, which was historically known as Angora.

Traditionally, the Mohair goat had a white fleece but due to breeding it can now be found naturally in black, grey, red and brownish colors. With its curly, long hair the Angora goat is often mistaken for sheep, yet the two are not directly related.

The Mohair fibre is white, lustrous, resilient, wavy and up to 25 cm  / 10 inches long. The main producers of Mohair today can be found in South Africa, Turkey Argentina, U.S., New Zealand and Australia, with the best quality mohair coming from South Africa. Because the animal grows so quickly, proper nutrition is essential to obtain a quality fibre. The yarn is exceptionally difficult to spin,because the fleece lacks barbs that hold the strands to another. As such, only a few mills have mastered the art of Mohair.

Angora goat fleeces in different colors

Use of Mohair

Mohair can be used for clothing, such as hats, ties, and garment fabric, as well as for interior decorating.  It’s hard not to love the crisp feel and magnificent luster of mohair in upholstered furniture. Unfortunately, it is a very expensive fabric, and hence only used by connoisseurs nowadays. At the same time, it is extremely durable, which proves the old saying:” Quality has its price.”

Red Flanders Field Poppy Boutonniere with silk pocket square and mohair tie by Fort Belvedere

You can get that same lustre on suitings, which is why Mohair is a favorite for evening garments. It can be woven into a relatively lightweight fabric, yet it maintains superb crease resistance. As such, it is also popular as a summer fabric. It is nearly impossible to get a mohair fabric to wrinkle!

Mohair Sofa

Why Mohair?

There are many reasons to appreciate the remarkable characteristics of mohair:

• Durability. Mohair is second to none regarding the hierarchy of natural fibre durability, and hence a mohair garment will always outlast your cotton, wool, and cashmere garments. Perfect for business suits or travellers.
• Resistance to dirt and creasing. The smooth scales of the mohair fibre stop dirt from becoming trapped and the fabric from becoming creased. Both wool and mohair fibres also benefit from having natural stretch properties.
• Insulating. Mohair is an insulator; wool is a conductor. Together, they produce the perfect fabric for both warmer and cooler climates.
• Lustre. Depending on the finishing and blend, Mohair can have a strong or a subdued lustre, which is appreciated by fabric connoisseurs.

Mohair Blue Suit Folded Silk Pocket Square in Brown with Blue Paisley and Knit Tie in Solid Tobacco Brown Silk by Fort Belvedere

Wool & Mohair

Unlike cashmere, Mohair has a much coarser and crisp hand, which is why you will never find a 100% mohair suiting fabric; it would be extremely uncomfortable to wear and very pricey. In order to get the sparkly lustre and wrinkle resistance of the mohair with a softer feel, Mohair is often blended with wool.

Tonik

Although Mohair fabrics have been in use for over a century, it first gained brand recognition in 1957/1958 when the Tonik cloth was introduced and subsequently trademarked. It was a 3-ply mohair wool blend that had a changeant effect, which became popular with the mod movement. Of course, Mohair cloth was very expensive back then, and soon you would find other similar looking fabrics blended with polyester and marketed as Tonik that appealed to the same group of people.

Michael Caine wearing a dark blue three-piece mohair suit as Jack Carter

In 1966, the movie Alfie catapulted Mohair to unprecedented fame when actor Michael Caine (starring as Alfie) proclaimed: “I was wearing a navy-blue suit, in a material called Tonik, made by Dormeuil, and I didn’t want it spoiling. I don’t care whether a bird uses Max Factor Mattfilm or Outdoor Girl from Woolworth’s, if she starts purring up against your lapel, it won’t look the better for it.” The novel, which the movie was based on had already been written in 1963 by Bill Naughton, and so it shows you what fame this Mohair fabric gained within just a few years. Michael Caine continued to be an ambassador of the three-piece Mohair suit in the 1971 film, Get Carter.

By the 1980’s, the fabric had gotten increasingly more expensive before it disappeared.

Today, the authentic Tonik fabric is no longer available because it was a scratchy, uncomfortable cloth, but bespoke aficionados and Mods will still know what it is all about.

James Bond Wears Mohair

James Bond is a huge fan of Mohair and regardless if you like Sean Connery, Pierce Brosnan or Daniel Craig, they all wear Mohair suits or tuxedos.

Roger Moore as James Bond in Marine Blue Mohair-Blend Suit

Different Qualities of Mohair

Quality suits are always made of 100% natural fibres, but not all mohair fabrics are created equal. Fabrics come in different blends.

Mohair Colors for Business – 27 percent Mohair – 290 grams by Vitale Barberis Canonico

Blend Ratios

100% Mohair: Very rare and extremely course, an all-Mohair fabric is only something for hardcore fans of the material, and even then it will be tough on your skin. Not recommended.

70% Mohair/30% Wool: This blend is very difficult to find, and while it has a vivid shine, it is still uncomfortably stiff and not something I would recommend.

60% Mohair/40% Wool: This blend is still very coarse and likewise not something I recommend unless you love a crisp fabric on your skin. Usually, they are rather heavy and run at about 360- 390 grams / 13oz. Lighter fabrics in 260 grams are available.

35% Mohair/65% Wool:  Fabrics with this blend ratio or less Mohair tend to be softer and gentler than the ones above, yet they retain a certain lustre and they don’t wrinkle easily. Most weights are around 240- 300 grams. These are excellent mohair fabrics and are recommended.

14% Mohair 86% Wool: The most luxurious mohair options available are blended in this ratio and often the weight does not exceed 230 grams. Even at this weight, the cloth tailors and drapes beautifully.

Blend of 16 Percent Superfine Kid Mohair & 84 Percent Wool in Air Force Blue by Vitale Barberis Canonico

Mohair Grading & The Best Mohair in the World

Traditionally, Mohair came in two qualities: Mohair and Kid Mohair. The latter is obtained from a younger goat that delivers a finer, less coarse Mohair fibre but makes it more costly.

The best quality is the so-called ‘Summer Kid Mohair’, which uses the softest fibres from the very first shearing of a mohair goat. All subsequent shearings yield coarser and hence less desirable fibres.  For years, Vitale Barberis Canonico has been buying the very best mohair fabrics on the world market but since that was not enough for them, they took it a step further. In 2006, they developed a particular procurement system which enables VBC to select and purchase only the very best mohair fleece in the world.

This process involves physical inspection and estimation of parameters such as fineness, yield, length and strength, which requires a great deal of experience among their staff. In 2014, Vitale Barberis Canonico paid the highest price ever for a bale of 24-micron kid mohair at R632  (South African Rand) per kg.

Because of this dedication to quality, Vitale Barberis Canonico is renowned for their top notch mohair blend fabrics.

The most expensive Mohair bale in the world – bought of course by Vitale Barberis Canonico

Mohair Patterns

Most Mohair fabrics you see are blue, charcoal or grey solids. Unlike other natural fibres Mohair takes dye colors exceptionally well, which is why Vitale Barberis Canonico offers Mohair in countless shades of colors. You will also find stripes on occasion but since the world production has shrunk by about 50% in the last 25 years, you will not find as many patterns and styles as in wool suitings.

Mohair Colors for Fun – 27 percent Mohair – 290 grams by Vitale Barberis Canonico

Mohair, Tuxedos & Tailcoats

If I could have just one mohair garment, it would be a mohair tuxedo. Because of its lustre and wrinkle resistance, black or midnight blue mohair is the very best fabric you can find for evening wear. No matter whether it is a tuxedo or tailcoat, rest assured you will cut a remarkable figure if you make the same choice.

Pierce Brosnan as James Bond in Mohair Blend Tuxedo

Other Ways To Wear Mohair

Apart from eveningwear, Mohair is also popular for hot climates. Unlike linen or cotton, it always looks crisp yet due to it’s light weight and open weave, it wears rather cool. While other thin fabrics in wool lack a decent drape that causes nightmares for the tailor and wrinkles for the wearer, a Mohair fabric will remain practically wrinkle free, drape well, and your tailor will thank you for this wonderfully draping material.

If you enjoyed this guide, you will also enjoy our guides on tweed, flannel and worsted.

Next time you have a suit tailored, make sure to inquire about Mohair fabrics so you can take a look at them. If you need a suit that can take a beating or if you want to stand out from the crowd in the evening, Mohair is your best best.

If you want to see a how a length of VBC Mohair fabric is transformed into a crisp looking jacket by A. Caraceni, watch the video below.

In this series on men’s footwear, we have previously presented a guide to Moccasins and the Driving Moc, which is related to the Loafer but not exactly the same. So what exactly is a loafer and how does is it different from the Moccasin? In this guide, you will learn all about Loafers, different styles and the history of this wonderful shoe.

Video

Make sure to watch the Loafer video below for the best Loafer experience. Please share it and give us a thumbs up if you like it, thank you!

Penny Loafers by Rancourt

Characteristics of a Loafer

1. Lace less shoe.
2. Low shoes, i.e. the ankle is exposed, and they do not wrap snugly around the ankle
3. Separate sole
4. An (often low) heel
5. The upper vamp has a moccasin-like construction
6. Sometimes loafers feature a piece of leather across the vamp, which is known as a saddle

From the above description, one can see the similarities between a moccasin and a loafer. However, there are a few key differences.

1. All loafers have a separate sole that is not the case for the majority of moccasins.
2. Loafers have a heel that is missing in a moccasin.
3. Unlike moccasins, loafers lack embroidery, beading or other ornamentation on the uppers.
4. Evolved on different continents.

The last difference is the primary reason they, though similar in many ways, evolved into two different and distinct types of footwear.

Weejuns in the 1960’s – a symbol of elegant leisure

History of the Loafer

Unlike most other shoes, the loafer has many origin stories. One of these is also said to be the moccasin thus adding to the confusion. However the two most popular, widely regarded and accepted theories are that they evolved from a Norwegian man who hybridized traditional Native American  and Norwegian footwear and from an English royal commission of a new form of house shoe. While it may be rather difficult to pinpoint the exact source what is interesting is the story and journey of its evolution.

For the purpose of clarity, we subdivided the history of the loafer based on types while roughly maintaining a timeline.

Wildsmith loafer in brown with Moccasin construction and typical saddle

The Wildsmith Loafer

Across the pond to the United Kingdom, in 1847, Matthew, and Rebecca Wildsmith established a footwear manufacturing business in London by the name of  Wildsmith Shoes. The mainstay of their business was making and subsequently repairing boots for the Household Cavalry, whose mounted unit, the Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment, is part of the Monarch’s official bodyguard.

In 1926, their grandson, Raymond Lewis Wildsmith, was commissioned by King George VI, to make a country house shoe that he could wear indoor mostly with his shooting hose. Raymond came up with a low heeled design that did not include laces and which could be comfortably slipped on and off. The construction of this shoe had a lot in common with the moccasin. It is a matter of conjecture as to whether he was familiar with the moccasin or that he came up with the design on his own in response to the very specific instruction he received from his patron.  This design soon appeared in his ready to wear collection and was initially called the 582, and then subsequently the Model 98. Today they are now known as the Wildsmith Loafer. While they were designed for indoor wear in a casual fashion, they very soon gained in popularity and began to be worn as a casual choice for outdoor wear.

The Aurland Loafer from Norway & Hand Drawn Moccasin Model for Reorder by Gardner

The Aurland Loafer

At the beginning of the 20th century, Shoemaker Nils Gregori’s son Tveranger (1874-1953) introduced a loafer in the town of Aurland, Norway. Nils traveled to North America at the age of thirteen to learn the art of shoemaking and spent approximately seven years there. In 1930, he introduced a new design with heels which came to be known as the “Aurland moccasin”. This design was influenced by two sources, the first being the moccasins worn by the Iroquois, which he no doubt familiarised himself with during his stay in North America, and the second being the traditional moccasin-like shoes worn by the fishermen in his hometown of Aurland.

He slowly started marketing his design in the rest of Europe, where it became extremely popular. At that time, many Americans began visiting Europe where they stumbled upon these shoes and took a fancy to them. Many of them, of course, took them back and reintroduced them to America. They came to the notice of the editor of Esquire magazine who in turn took up the cause of these shoes and hence they began to become familiar to Americans back home. In the early 1930s, (according to some sources in 1933) the Spaulding family in New Hampshire sensed a business opportunity and started making shoes based on the Aurland Moccasin. They named it the Loafer which was a generic name for slip-on shoes in America.

Around 1940, the industrialist and Secretary of the Treasury, Arthur Gardner, bought a pair of Aurland shoes. Later, when he was unable to obtain them in the U.S. he made an unusual request to the Norwegian ambassador, providing him with a sketch of the “slippers”. Apparently, Gardner did not know where the shoes were made, but the ambassador recognized that he must have meant Aurland shoes. The local mayor organized production and three months afterward, four pairs of ”moccasins” were mailed to D.C.

Crockett & Jones Penny Loafer Model Boston in Scotch grain calf on a classic Last & Variation Mertin on a more modern last

The Penny Loafer

In 1936 (some sources put the date as 1934), the G.H.Bass shoe company introduced its version of the loafer, and the company is known for it to this day. Their design included a distinctive strip of leather (the saddle) of the shoe with a diamond-shaped cut-out. Their version of the loafer was named Weejuns (to sound like Norwegians – a nod to the Norwegian roots of the shoe) to differentiate them from the Spaulding loafer. Weejuns became immensely popular in America especially among the Prep School students in the 1950s, who coined the term Penny Loafer. Legend has it that they, wishing to make a fashion statement, took to inserting a penny into the diamond shaped cut out of their Weejuns. An alternate theory is that two pennies was sufficient to make an emergency call in the 1930s. Regardless of the theory, the name stuck, and the G.H.Bass penny loafer has achieved the status of a classic. For more about Weejuns, make sure to visit Ivy Style. In 1937, the American brand Nettleton trademarked the term loafer for “LADIES’, MEN’S, AND BOYS’ SHOES MADE OF LEATHER, RUBBER, FABRIC, AND VARIOUS COMBINATIONS OF SUCH MATERIALS”.

In the 1930’s the Duke of Windsor was a big proponent of penny loafers, and he often wore a brown and white two-tone Penny Loafer with his suits.

Bass Weejuns – Made in Maine Reddish Brown & Olive Green

The Tassel Loafer

It remains unclear what the roots of the tassel loafers are. Alan Flusser claimed tassel loafers were popular with the Ivy League set in the 1920’s though I have never seen any article, photograph, ad or illustration from that period mentioning or showing tassel loafers. Truman wore derby shoes with tassels, but he did not have tassel loafers. If you have any evidence regarding tassel loafers from the 1920’s, please leave a comment below!

Alden Tassel Loafer

Based on evidence we have seen, it seems more plausible that after the end of the Second World War the little remembered but rather debonair American movie character Paul Lukas bought a pair of oxfords with little tassels at the end of the laces. On his return to America, he took them to the New York shoemakers Farkas & Kovacs and asked them to make something similar. Not fully satisfied, Lukas then took them to Lefcourt of New York and Morris Bookmakers of Beverly Hills. Both of them in turn, and in a twist of fate, sent on the request to the Alden Shoe Company. The then President of Alden, Arthur Tarlow Sr., Came up with a slip-on pattern keeping the leather lace and tassel as a decoration. The Alden Shoe Co., realizing the potential of the shoe, continued to experiment with the design for another year finally launching it in 1950 through Lefcourt and Morris stores. The Tassel Loafer as it became to be called was a success, finding favor with the sophisticated set of New York and Los Angles. In 1957, Brooks Brothers approached Alden to make a line of tassel loafers especially for them. The resultant design was a tassel loafer with a decorative seam at the back part of the shoe which, to this day, remains exclusive to Brooks Brothers.

The Gucci Horsebit Loafer

The Gucci Loafer

While the loafer grew in stature in America, with the tassel loafer being worn with suits by the 1960s, it was not quite the same story in Europe. In Italy, this style of shoe was more widespread but all other Europeans considered the loafer to be a casual shoe that had no place in the city. However, things changed in 1968 when the Italian designer Gucci introduced a loafer with a golden brass strap in the shape of a horse’s snaffle bit across the front. Gucci opened his New York office in 1953 and noticed the popularity of the loafer. He refined the lines, added the bit (Gucci has a saddle making history) and made them in black (loafers were usually in brown in keeping with their status of being a casual shoe). The result was a shoe with just enough formality to make it acceptable to be worn with suits.  These went on to be named the Gucci Loafer and helped establish the loafer in Europe and across the globe. Gianni Agnelli or John F. Kennedy were just a few of the big supporters that helped to establish Gucci Loafer. In 1969, Gucci sold 84,000 pairs of loafers just in their U.S. stores. As in keeping with the continued journey of the loafer, it crossed the pond into America where it was adopted by the 1970s businessmen and almost became a uniform for Wall Street types.

Up until Gucci designed this loafer, it was a brand merely known to insiders who appreciated saddles and quality luggage. The men’s loafer is also known as Model 175 and was already designed in the mid-1950’s. Initially, it was sold for approximately $14. Subsequently, Gucci developed the Loafer Model 360 for women, and the very similar model 350, which was offered in seven unusual colors. Consequently, the fashion journalist and critic Hebe Dorsey dedicated an entire article to the shoe which was published in the International Herald Tribune, which made the shoe an overnight success.

Since 1985, the Gucci Loafer has been part of the permanent exhibition of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

The Belgian Loafer

Another popular style is the so-called Belgian Loafer. Invented in the 1950’s by Henri Bendel, whose family store also brought Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga shoes to the U.S. It’s characterisitc features were:

• A small bow that was easily recognized
• Soft sole construction – the shoe was sewn inside-out
• Unusual colors and materials

After the Bendel family sold their store in 1954, Bendel purchased two 300 year-old shoe factories in Belgium in 1956 and started producing men’s and women’s loafers. The shoe became an instant hit, and the bow was easily recognizable. As such he signle handedly rescued the Belgium shoe industry which earned him a Knightship of the Order of Leopold I. in 1964. Just, 6 years later he was made Knight Commander of the Order of Leopold II.

Bendel died in 1997 and although the shoes are sold around the world, the only retail store of the Belgian Loafers is located at 110 East 55th Street in NYC. Of course, you can also find them online.

Personally, I prefer either a tassel oafer over Belgian loafers or a slipper. As such I have no need to Belgian Loafers but if you enjoy extravagant shoes, Belgian Shoes may be the right fit for you.

Belgian Loafer

Loafer Construction

Since loafers are casual shoes, most of them are black or Blake rapid stitched, while occasionally you can also find Goodyear welted loafers. While these are a little heavier, they offer an additional layer of cork, which makes walking in them a bit more comfortable though the shoe will also be heavier. For casual summer use, an unlined, Blake stitched loafer might be the better choice if you don’t intend to walk overly much in them. On the other hand, if you are looking for a more robust multi-season loafer, a Goodyear welted version with leather lining is probably the better choice. Twice a year Gucci releases a new version of their loafers, and while the summer ones are unlined and made of very thin leather, the fall-winter collection is leather lined and made of thicker leathers.

Slip on Shoe – Not a Loafer because it lacks the Moccasin construction

Slip-Ons – Not Loafers

Many men and women confuse slip-on shoes with loafers. As the name suggests, you can slip on the shoe just like a loafer but it lacks the moccasin seam on the uppers and looks more like a regular oxford or brogue. The slip-on is favored by men who wear business suits when they fly because you can easily pass security and unlike a loafer, it is appropriate with a pin stripe business suit.

Scarosso Model Mezzano Tassel Loafer in black suede with red tassels

Loafer Style Advice

The Loafer is a piece of footwear that straddles the two worlds of casual and a more formal style, making it quite a unique piece in that respect. No matter what you read, a loafer is never a truly formal shoe because of its casual heritage.

Gucci loafers are often combined with all sorts of outfits. Of course, using a black, polished box calf leather with leather lining and refining the shape make the loafer more formal than an off white, unlined Gucci summer loafer in suede but at the end of the day, it is still a loafer and not suited for tuxedos or white tie ensembles. Likewise, it is historically not appropriate to wear one with a classic three piece business suit because it is simply too casual. On the other hand, a casual suit will look just fine with tassels.

Selection of worn out Gucci Loafers

Tassel loafers. In the U.S. many businessmen in their fifties wear business suits or sport coats with slacks and black or brown tassel loafers. As a rule of thumb, black or oxblood tassel loafers are about as formal as a navy blazer with grey flannel slacks. Of course, anyone can wear anything today but if you have an interest in classic men’s clothing, you care about history and the evolution of certain clothing pieces. Wearing tassel loafers with a business suits would probably not considered to be a faux pas, but I still encourage you to wear it with casual suits and blazer / sport coat combination and choose an Oxford with more formal garments.

Penny loafers are a perfect companion for corduroy pants, chinos, flannel slacks and in the summer even linen or seersucker. In terms of formality, they rank just slightly below a tassel loafer and it is a great companion for a blazer outfit with Oxford shirts and a tie or bow tie.

In a casual setting the loafer can replace any of your other casual shoes to add a bit of dash to your look. However unlike Boat Shoes, it is recommended that you keep your socks on when you wear your loafers. Casual loafers can be worn with denims and khakis, and some men even wear them sockless with shorts. At the end of the day, you have to decide what to wear, though personally, I would wear loafers mostly during the day, and predominantly with combinations and casual suits. However, the beauty of rules is that you can break them elegantly once you have mastered them, whereas men who don’t have a clue about clothing history, often look it.

What Loafers to Buy?

Every man should have at least one pair of loafers. Unfortunately, there is not one style that is objectively more necessary than another. While some would consider the penny loafer or Gucci loafer the number one choice, I think tassel loafers make a good first pair because you can do anything you would o with the other loafers, but the tassels add a unique touch to your wardrobe.

If you are not sure where to buy loafers, the following should help you to narrow it down a bit because you can literally find thousands of loafer options around the world.

Monaco Penny Loafer & Variation by Gaziano Girling

Penny Loafers

If you want to invest in a penny loafer, you have many options. Bass Weejuns offers foreign made models for $118, Made in Maine versions for $295, and about twice as much for shell cordovan. I haven’t tried either of them, but I’d assume the Made in Maine is of higher quality. Apart from that, you can also find them from Allen Edmonds ($225 – $365), Alden ($498), Rancourt ($225), Brooks Brothers ($198). For a more high-end interpretation of this style, take a look at Gaziano Girling. In Europe, Jay Butler offers an affordable RTW option for under $150, and Crockett & Jones offers a large selection of different styles and lasts.

jfitzpatrick Tassel slip-on Ravenna in navy, short nap suede

Tassel Loafers

All the brands mentioned above produce tassel loafers as well. Also, Meermin offers interesting budget tassels; Scarosso has an affordable MTO Program, and JFitzpatrick offers suede tassel slip-ons, which are technically not loafers. For an excellent selection of various penny and tassel loafers, take a look at Pediwear.

Gucci Loafers

Although copied many times, Gucci is still the originator of the shoe, however bear in mind that they issue many different versions in gold and silver horsebit hardware and different styles. Priced between around $450 – $630 you certainly pay much more for the brand name than for the quality of leather and workmanship. Personally, I’d prefer to invest that kind of money into more quality and buy from places like those mentioned above, but each to his own. If you want a Gucci loafer, the most classic bit loafer is black leather with gold hardware, which sells for $590.

For a more affordable version, check out Jay Butler, which sells them for just $175, which is great value for the money.

What do you think about Loafers? Do you love them, hate them  or are you indifferent? What are your favorite Loafers? Please share in the comments below.

This article was created by Sven Raphael Schneider & Vikram Nanjappa.

Ever since we started carrying Ascots, we received many emails asking about how to tie an Ascot. So, in today’s guide I will show you three ways to tie a regular Ascot, including my favorite way, I will discuss the half-Ascot as well as general things you should and shouldn’t do when wearing one.

Please give us a thumbs up on youtube and share it if you like it, thank you.

Transcript

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In this video, we discuss Cravats, Ascots, how to tie them and what mistakes to avoid.

How to Tie an Ascot? Here are three ways that you can do it.

1.The Traditional Way

• One, this is how you tie the Ascot the traditional way, it doesn’t matter if you wear the pleats up or down. The only thing that’s of importance is that the pleats overlap the knot so the knot stays tighter and you will look great all day.
• First, the right end needs to be about three to four inches longer than the left one.
• Second, the right end, the longer end, goes over the left end. What’s important here is that the pleated part is part of the knot, and you want to keep this rather tight. So now, the longer end goes back around as you can see, around, up through the back and down. This is how the traditional ascot looks, you may want to open another button on your shirt, and then you close it.
• Once you have it tucked in, you simply adjust it to your liking, and you’re done.
• There are two ways, once, you can have everything popping out so you see it, or you can have everything tucked in like so. Personally, I liked it tucked in, I like a tight knot and depending on the shirt I’m wearing, I open one or two buttons from the top. This way you see more of the Ascot, and so it’s more closed.

• Grant wearing an Ascot in 1947

2.The Simple Knot

Number 2, the simple knot. The simple knot is actually really simple because it’s just one knot. Both ends are the same length and then you just create one knot like so, and you tuck both ends in. For this knot, you really have to adjust it, and the problem is it’s a very loose knot so over the course of the day it will become loose. It can be a problem with the traditional knot, but it can with the simple knit, it’s even more so. Personally, I don’t really like the look of it, and I recommend this look.

3. My Favorite Way To Tie An Ascot

• The third way to tie an Ascot, the modified four in hand knot.
• Again, you want it around your neck, and thus time you want the right end to be about 2 inches longer.
• Now, what you do is you tie a regular four in hand tie knot. You can also watch this video where I show you how to do it but with an ascot; it’s more difficult because it is unlined.
• Basically, you take the longer end, get over and around. You can come over again, go through the back and now you go through the knot you created and push it through.This has the advantage that you can really adjust it and have it really tight around your neck just like with the regular tie knot.

Unlike a tie, the front end will be shorter than the back end. That’s exactly what you want because now, with the back end, you come from your neck side and basically, bring it through from the back, so it comes over. You simply adjust it, so you get some nice pleats and then you put them in your shirt, adjust it until you like the look, and you’re basically done. The great thing about this knot is that even if it comes loose which is very unlikely, you can easily tighten it, it will stay like this all day, it gives you more volume in the knot so it kind of pops up and flows down nicely, and that’s the reason this is my favorite knot.

Ascots worn elegantly with top two shirt buttons undone

How to Untie The Ascot

For the Modified ascot knot, it’s important to untie it the same way you tied it, you bring the long end back, and then you pull it up, just like a regular tie knot, you can always loosen it the other way but you always risk that seams rip because of the strain it puts on it. If you enjoyed this video, sign up to our email newsletter, you’ll get these videos right to your inbox, I’ll even throw in my free eBook about 15 style mistakes and how you can avoid them, Of course, you should also sign up to our YouTube channel, so you never miss a video again.

4. How To Tie The Half-Ascot

Regular ascots have two of these wide ends. However, there are also half ascot versions where you have one loop like so and one wide end. Personally. I don’t like it very much because the knot is not very tight, it comes loose all the time, and it’s not just so full so it looks flat and not three-dimensional or like a real ascot.

Here is how you tie the half ascot.

Wide end through the loop and you pull it tight till you like it, adjust it and now you just bring this end through the back, adjust it and put it in. As you can see, it’s not as full but maybe it’s advantageous when it’s really warm outside, and you want less material on your chest. Now that you know how to tie it, there’s really no reason to have a half ascot, always go with the real thing; it looks better, and it’s the way gentleman wear it.

Do Not Wear Woven Silk Ascots

Ascot & Cravat DO’S & DON’T

1.DO open one shirt button or two, never less

Depending on the shirt you wear, the Ascot looks best with the top or top two buttons undone. Closing and the shirt all the way is not recommended because it would hide the Ascot and more than two buttons will reveal your chest or undershirt, which looks sloppy.

2. DON’T buy cheap stiff silk or woven silk

Since the Ascot is directly in touch with your skin, it is important that it feels soft and comfortable on your skin. Stiff silk will feel unpleasant especially over the course of the day, which is why you want soft silk. Also, sometime you can find Ascot that are made out of woven silk. While they may look attractive, the problem you will face is your facial hair will act like little hooks that pull threads from the woven silk, and after ten times of wear, the Ascot will look fuzzy and old. Therefore, a printed silk with a fine weave is preferable. Also, it pays to shave regularly when wearing Ascots because otherwise your beard will have an impact on the Ascot.

Quality Soft Silk Ascot From Fort Belvedere

3. DON’T get Ascots with interlining unless you want a formal Ascot

Unless you opt for a formal Ascot tie for a morning coat ensemble, the Ascot is a slightly less formal accessory and, therefore, you should skip any form of interlining. Just the silk will feel more comfortable and look more debonair.

4. DO be careful when it is hot.

Silk can discolor when it gets hot and moist, and especially cheaper silk is prone to bleeding. So, either wear an undershirt when it is hot or skip the Ascot altogether when it is sweltering, and you are prone to transpiration.

5. DO wear a long sleeved dress shirt with a collar

Ascots should be worn with a long sleeved dress shirt and a collar. It does not matter if it is a wide-spread, classic or button down collar, but a short sleeved short or polo shirt will not do the Ascot justice.

The telephone rings early in the morning. It is your sister informing you that great Aunt Hortense has died. You like Aunt Hortense. She mixed you your first martini when you were sixteen and told you stories of dancing to dawn to the sounds of the Big Band orchestras. After you put down the receiver, you wonder why do I do now? What do I say? And yes, what do I wear? A few generations ago these questions would not have to be asked. People conformed to established rituals surrounding death and grief without questioning them.

Funeral Etiquette Video

How It Used To Be

There were things to do and one simply got on with doing them. The Victorians, for example, rarely if ever talked about sex in polite company, even within the circle of those of their same gender. However, they talked about death incessantly and developed rigid customs concerning mourning.

If one’s spouse or parent died, one wore black for a full year and then for six months, “half mourning” which meant gray for men and mauve for women. These traditions carried on well into the twentieth century and for some cultures remain in place today. Presently, there are few carved in stone rituals, and people have questions about the etiquette  surrounding death.

Dark suits are obligatory for funerals

Letter of Condolence

The very first thing that one must do when a death occurs is to acknowledge it. If you learn of the death of someone whom you knew or if you discover that a relative or close friend of a co-worker or friend has died, you first sit down at your desk, take out paper and an envelope and write a letter of condolence. This is important especially if you are not planning to attend a funeral service or if there is no funeral service. Even if you attend a service, a letter is a nice, but not obligatory, thing to do. I said you write a letter of condolence.

What Not To Do

You do not send an email or post a “thinking of your family and you” entry on a funeral home’s website or Facebook. Death requires more from you. A handwritten letter is where one begins. It need not be long or witty, but a sincere message with a personal touch is best.

Be Sincere

If you did not know the person that well you can simply say something along the lines of, “I was deeply sorry to learn of the death of your aunt. Please accept my heartfelt sympathy. Your family and you are in my thoughts and prayers.” Just make sure to be genuine. If you are not religious, drop the prayers. These letters will serve as tangible reminders for the grieving that people care for them or cared for the person they are mourning.

Windsor Castle Mourning Stationary with black border

Flowers

You may want to acknowledge the death of someone in a more tangible manner than just a letter. In years gone by one sent flowers to the funeral home or a mourner’s house. The purpose of the flowers was quite practical. It offsets the odor of death and the not-too-perfected embalming process. However, these days many people regard an overabundance of flowers as an excessive waste of money. Instead in the death notice or at the funeral home the names of one or two favorite charities of the deceased are noted in case one would prefer to make a memorial donation rather than send a spray of flowers. The choice is up to you if you want to make a charitable donation or not and it is up to you ultimately to which charity you would like to donate. The charity will inform the deceased family of the donation, or the funeral home will prepare a list of donors names and addresses. The amount of the gift is never mentioned.

Instead in the death notice or at the funeral home the names of one or two favorite charities of the deceased are noted in case one would prefer to make a memorial donation rather than send a spray of flowers. The choice is up to you if you want to make a charitable donation or not and it is up to you ultimately to which charity you would like to donate. The charity will inform the deceased family of the donation, or the funeral home will prepare a list of donors names and addresses. The amount of the gift is never mentioned.

Thatcher funeral

Funeral or Memorial Service?

People ask what is the difference between a “funeral” and a “memorial service.” The answer really lies in whether the deceased is there in body or just in memory.

If there is a coffin and a burial following, it is a funeral service. If burial has taken place or the body cremated (with or without an urn present), then it is a memorial service. On occasion, the family may opt for a private funeral service and burial and a public memorial service at a later time. Death notices in newspapers or online at funeral homes will indicate to you what type of service you are attending and where the service will be held.

Funeral Service at the Arlington Cemetery

The traditional funeral service is slowly becoming extinct. It is often replaced with a “celebration of a person’s life.” This is all part and parcel of our death-denying culture. As Ecclesiastes (it’s in the Bible) says, “there is a time to dance and a time to mourn.” A memorial service is not a time to dance. There may be smiles and slight laughs at a funeral as we remember the uniqueness of the person we are gathered to remember, but a Dean Martin-style roast at funeral is not.

If you do attend a “celebration” at a country club where liquor is served, go easy on it. This would be a time for a dignified response to a person’s life even if he or she was the life of the party. You dress and behave in exactly the same way you would at a traditional funeral. You express your sympathy to the family; you listen to the stories told about your late friend or relative, and then you depart.

We cannot be assured any longer that the deceased was involved in any organized religion. If a minister is asked to officiate at the service, he or she is in charge and will ask (or should ask) the deceased loved ones for remembrances of the one who has died. Certain rites of the Church or other religious faith will be observed. It is quite alright to ask before the service of the funeral director or officiating clergy what to do or expect during the service. Most people are quite open to discussing their religious traditions. Normally, however, all one has to do is to show up, express one’s sympathy to the family, sit down, and observe.

Your phone ringer is off, and the device is stowed during the service.

Orthodox Jewish funeral service

If you are attending a Jewish funeral service, it usually takes place in a Synagogue or funeral home one day after the death, but never happens on the Saturday Sabbath.   Men are required to wear a head covering known as a kippah or yarmulke.  If you do not own one, one will be provided for you as you enter the sanctuary. Married women are asked to wear headscarves at an Orthodox service. Gentlemen are encouraged to wear dark suits and ties.   The service is usually about the same duration as a Christian funeral. If you are able, you will be asked to travel to the graveside for the burial. The casket is lowered and, if you desire, you may join others in the act shoveling soil on the casket.  Do not feel obliged to do so.  Following the internment, most people will adjourn to a family member’s home and begin a seven-day observation called Shiva.  If you missed the funeral service, you might visit the family during this time.  Never send flowers to a Jewish funeral.  Usually, one makes a donation to charity or plants a tree in Israel through the Jewish National Fund.

Like Jews, Muslims do not delay in having a funeral service.  The funeral service will take place in the Mosque.  You will be required to remove your shoes and deposit them in the appropriate location.  Therefore, make sure your socks are impeccably clean.  Women must wear scarves on their heads. Suits are always dark.  Most Muslim men will not be wearing neckties, but if you want to wear a tie, you may.  Muslims never embalm, and burial occurs within twenty-four hours of death.  A service often occurs after burial.

If you attend a Buddhist funeral, you should wear conservative attire.  You will notice that the mourners are wearing white, the traditional mourning color.  Do not wear red which is the color for joy and happiness.  It is mandatory that you remove your shoes at a Buddhist funeral as at a Muslim one.

Muslim funeral

Traditions

At many funerals today, a close family member or friend is asked to deliver a eulogy. A eulogy is a heart-felt tribute to the one we are there to remember. It is not an opportunity to get one last word in about the deceased. It is not a comedy act. It also is not all about the speaker. It is about the way the person who died and the way she or he impacted upon people’s lives.If you are delivering a eulogy, this is your chance to speak about someone in a very dignified manner.

If you are asked to deliver a eulogy, this is your chance to speak about someone in a very dignified manner. Make sure to sit down and take your time when you write it. Find the right balance between grief, cherished memories, and funny occasions. The length should be two letter or DIN A4 pages in standard font size 12 to 14 depending on the font you choose, but Arial, OpenSans or Times New Roman are best.

Avoid any remarks about drinking or dating habits of the deceased and do not bring up anything else that could be perceived as embarrassing or disrespectful.

Funeral back in the day

What to Wear to a Funeral

We all have many suits in our closet. Well, maybe not. However, we should have one dark suit on hand for occasions such as a funeral.

1. A black suit is your number one choice but a navy suit or a charcoal gray suit, and if you don’t have anything else, even a midnight-blue pin stripe are all acceptable. In the heat of summer, I think it is also correct to wear unless one is an immediate family member of the deceased, a tan summer suit. Your shoes should be black whether they be wing tips or captoes.
2. Use a white linen pocket square. You can learn how to fold it here.
3. Opt for solid white shirts with French cuffs because it suits the formality of the event.
4. One’s tie should be conservative.
5. Solid black ties are quite appropriate for someone who has lost an immediate family member.
6. If you are just attending a service, gray or blue striped tie will work well.

What NOT To Wear

You never show up to a funeral home or Church service wearing jeans, a golf shirt, a baseball cap, or sneakers. Likewise, women should avoid sequins, bright colors, and big jewelry. Even if the men sitting next to you are thusly attired, you know that you know better and are more respectful than they are. (Besides dear Aunt Hortense liked a man in a suit).

Funerals are one of the reasons why every man must own one good dark colored suit. You will be able to wear it on other occasions as well. With the right tie, it is perfect for weddings or job interviews. For very formal funerals, formal morning dress may be required. If you don’t own a morning coat, a stroller suit with a black vest would also be appropriate.

Thank you Notes

If you are in the position of having lost someone, you know how difficult those first few weeks are. Nevertheless, the words and actions of people who have expressed their sympathy to you must be acknowledged. As exhausted as you may be in the weeks that follow a funeral, you need to be spending your time writing letters of thanks to those who wrote you personal letters, sent flowers, or made memorial donations. This is one of the final kind things you can do for your loved one, acknowledging your gratitude to people who knew him or her and responded with a memorial. It is also about telling people that you appreciate their kindness during this trying time. The task of writing thank you letters can be divided up among family members who can write a personal note. In case you don’t know who will be writing, a simple, “on behalf of Hortense’s family, I thank you for your kind donation to St. Philip’s Church” or whatever charity will do.

If you received a letter of condolence, one simply writes something like, “Thank you for your words of sympathy. I gathered strength and encouragement from them.” Pre-printed sympathy cards to which a person just affixes his signature need not be answered, but a personal letter does.

FDR with Mourning Band

Gone are the days when a man would wear a black arm band for a six months after losing a parent, spouse or sibling. (Those arm bands though did serve a purpose. They said to the world, “be gentle; this man is grieving.” However, in the months that follow a loss, one should never be in a hurry “to get back to normal.” The past normal no longer exists. A new normal without a loved one will be found.

Military Funeral

There is an etiquette surrounding death and grief. To those who say that we do not need to do these things ‘nowadays,’ the reply should be: Has death stopped happening and do we no longer mourn? The traditional rites, choice of clothing, and condolences are ways of showing respect to the person who died and to remind us that he or she had a life worth remembering. They also are our ways of offering support to those who miss them the most. Of course, mourning and grief are very personal matters. In any case, Aunt Hortense would approve.
Insert Picture of Funeral Cortege.

Native American Traditions

Thanks to our reader Evan, you can find some guidelines about Native American funerals.

Before going to the fire circle, ask someone already in attendance if it is appropriate to enter at that time. Close family and friends may sometimes wish to be alone for hours at a time.

Do not wear formal attire. A linen shirt tucked into black jeans is generally the upper limit of formality.

When entering the circle, place a pinch of tobacco or whatever offering is provided into the fire.

If water is provided, cleanse yourself.

Always circle clockwise.

Never attempt to tend the fire in any way. Trained tenders will be caring for the fire.

When leaving the fire circle, always offer a pinch of tobacco or the alternate offering to the fire.

The only interaction permissible with the fire is the offering. Additional offerings may be given, provided they are accompanied by a prayer, generally nonverbal.

Always offer your seat to someone who was closer to the departed.

Traditional Chinese Funeral

Chinese Funeral Traditions

Traditionally, people in China wear all white clothes for a funeral. And, depending on the relation with the deceased, there are five levels for funeral dress:

1. In the highest level is reserved for sons, parents, grandparents or wives for husbands and people wear unhemmed clothes made of the roughest fabric (usually hemp fabric);

2. The second level applies to sons for mothers or mothers for first sons or husbands for wives. People should wear hemmed clothes made of the fabric finer than in the highest one;

3. The third level is for men, married sisters or aunts or cousins of the father’s side or women of brothers or grandparents-in-law people should wear clothes that are finer than the second one;

4. The fourth level is for granduncles or grandaunts or for grandparents on mothers’ side and people wear clothes that are once again finer than the third level;

5. The last level is reserved for cousins or uncles on the mother’s side or husbands for parents-in-law. These people should wear the finest clothes of all levels.

Obviously, these rules treated men and women unequally and, fortunately, they are not often followed anymore today.

Wake or Visitation

A wake or a visitation are a social gathering often held at the home of the deceased or the funeral home. Often, people who cannot attend the funeral will be able to go to the wake. The main goal of a visitation is to give the group of people who were friends with the deceased a chance to say goodbye in a social context.

The same dark suit requirement is also appropriate for wakes, especially evening wakes. However if , the deceased was a member of a the police force, firefighters brigade or sports team at the time of passing, it is not uncommon for teammates or co-workers to wear their uniforms to indicate a sense of kinship and a recognition of the decedent’s life, values, spirit, and commitment.

Do you know more about funeral etiquette in other cultures? Please let us know in the comments.