Synonymous with gentleman’s comfort at home, the smoking jacket has long been a traditional coat reserved for evening wear in the comforts of your estate as you sip fine port, read your paper and enjoy the pleasantries of a pipe or cigar.

Over the years, the jacket changed the course of men’s style and what was once reserved exclusively for home has now become a style staple of black tie and evening wear for a night in town.

James Edward Fitzgerald wearing a smoking jacket in 1868

The History of the Smoking Jacket

As international trade grew, the early 17th-century proved to become rather successful for Europe as it imported its favored goods into India, North America and much of Asia.

Some of the treasures of the time included items such as coffee, textiles, spices and tobacco. As many gentlemen didn’t own a wardrobe the size of the one’s today, most men did what they could to protect their most prized garments. Overcoats, tunics, and cravats were virtual magnets for the smell of tobacco, and so men began to wear robe de chambres over their clothing when partaking in a smoke at home. Most of these dressing gowns were made of silk, and as the old world changed into a newer old world, it became trendy to have your portrait taken while wearing your favorite dressing gown.

Gentleman at home in his smoking jacket

One of the first documented mentions of the dressing gown was charted on March 30, 1666, in the private diary of Samuel Pepys. An elegant gentleman without the financial means to acquire his own robe, he rented one. In his diary that day, he wrote ‘Thence home and eat one mouthful, and so to Hale’s and there sat until almost quite dark upon working my gown, which I hired to be drawn (in) it—an Indian gown, and I do see all the reason to expect a most excellent picture of it.’

As the years passed, the dressing gown became reserved for private wear and was worn primarily after the master had changed from his evening clothes into his pajamas. Without proper heating and insulation in most residences, the dressing gown provided much-needed warmth on cold nights. It was a practical item, although still remarkable in its beauty and sophistication. However, for most, it was only visible to the gentleman’s wife and perhaps children. Few members of great houses might wear it in front of certain staff such as a valet, first footman or butler. That or perhaps the lady’s maid in rare scenarios. It was rarely, however, seen by junior staff who weren’t given access to the master bedroom when occupied.

Hugh Hefner portrayed in the media by Esquire in a smoking jacket

As this trend grew in popularity, the smoking jacket continued to evolve, changing from a silk robe de chambre into a shorter, mid-thigh length jacket designed to absorb smoke and to protect the gentleman’s clothing from falling ash.

By 1850, Turkish tobacco became exceptionally popular among distinguished gentlemen thanks, in part, to the Crimean War. It became the tradition that following dinner, the gentleman would retreat in solace to his parlor room to partake in a smoke of his favorite cigar or pipe tobacco while sipping his favorite digestif.

As the Victorian and Edwardian eras passed and dinner jackets became popular instead of the more formal tailcoat, the smoking jacket continued to find its place and newer versions of it were created with different closures to allow gentlemen to wear them at home during the meal, preventing them from having to change afterward.

The smoking jacket was now synonymous with comfort and elegance and was one of the first items ever to be viewed as both. As the years passed and the 1950s paved the way to more casual attire in what was previously a formal atmosphere, the smoking jacket became a staple out of the house as well as within. Gentlemen of style such as Dean Martin, Cary Grant, and Fred Astaire all wore smoking jackets publicly as well as in private. Hugh Hefner instantly became known for his collection of smoking jackets when the first issue of Playboy hit shelves in December of 1953. Marilyn Monroe on the cover became such a frenzy that Mr. Hefner became an instant celebrity. Soon libidinous men flocked to his mansion for parties where he entertained in his collection of silk pajamas and smoking jackets. Playboy Bunnies flanked him and men across America wanted to become him.

Tom Fords take on the smoking jacket in a tuxedo form

As men like Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra partied and performed in Las Vegas, they would begin wearing their smoking jackets both on and off the stage. Paired elegantly with a black bow tie, formal trousers, and either patent oxfords or Prince Albert slippers, they wore a selection of classic velvet smoking jackets in burgundy, navy and black. To mix things up a bit, now and then, they had bespoke jackets made from the more classic silks but in bold paisleys and other patterns. Martin even became known for his shiny silver smoking jackets.

For men who remember the old Chesterfield Cigarette television commercials, we have fond memories of watching Fred Astaire wearing his beloved smoking jackets. In fact, he was such a fan of them that when he passed away on June 22, 1987, he was buried wearing his favorite.

Derek Rose Tartan Smoking Jacket

Smoking Jackets Today

Today, smoking jackets have ceased significantly in their popularity. Perhaps it’s due to a new culture of tobacco being bad for your health. Maybe it’s a matter of our less conservative lifestyles paving the way for jeans and t-shirts, or it could be due to how significant Mr. Hefner’s image in smoking jackets has been portrayed in the media. His public indulgence in sensual pleasures has made him an icon in America and around much of the world and because of him, the vast majority of smoking jackets sold today are Hugh Hefner Halloween costumes made of inferior materials and often emblazoned with the Playboy Bunny logo on the chest or back of the jacket.

Smoking jacket from the 1944 film Gaslight

The trend of the smoking jacket may seem dead, but many experts believe it’s just comatose. Despite their history of elegance, they have become synonymous with debauchery and smoking; two things society often views negatively. Therefore, the elegance of the jacket has taken a back seat and most men who continue to wear them, do so as a gimmick on Halloween or wear newer versions of the jacket that are simply dinner jackets made of velvet rather than wool.

It’s worth mentioning that in Germany, Netherlands, Norway, Italy, France and Austria a Smoking is, in fact, a tuxedo and not a smoking jacket. Obviously, something was mixed up, but it’s important to know the difference.

Jacket Styles and Features

There are many styles of jackets that are today often called smoking jackets. However, the classic smoking jacket is simply a mid-thigh length jacket that’s made of velvet with a quilted satin shawl collar, turn up cuffs and a tie belt made from velvet that’s often ornamented with tassels at the ends. Most smoking jackets have three pockets on the outside and usually a pocket reserved for

• a mid-thigh length jacket
• that’s made of velvet
• with a quilted satin shawl collar
• turn up cuffs
• tie belt made from velvet that’s often ornamented with tassels at the ends.
• Most smoking jackets have three pockets on the outside and usually a pocket reserved for cigars and perhaps another pocket on the inside chestIt is almost always ventless in the back and the sides and features very little rigidity compared to a dinner jacket or
• It is almost always ventless in the back and it’s cut roomier than a dinner jacket or blazer, similar to a dressing gown

Tom Ford wearing a velvet smoking jacket

There are also some slight variations of the traditional smoking jacket that still render it a classic.

1. A shawl collar made that isn’t quilted and is made from satin, silk, velvet or another material.
2. The jacket may include braided piping on the cuffs and/or the collar.
3. The jacket may not be velvet, but may be made from silk or another material. However, it’s important to note that if worn for smoking, velvet is the best material for protecting your clothing from the smell of smoke.

Over the course of the last century, new styles have begun to emerge paving the way for the smoking jacket to leave the house and journey out and about town instead of a dinner jacket.

These less traditional and often considered more conservative smoking jackets will usually follow the same fundamentals using velvet as the fabric and a shawl collar, but will instead use a different fastening system such as toggle or button closures. Unlike the home version, the sash will be replaced with a more formal fastener that may or may not be decorated with Brandenburg’s, olives or oversized buttons. Often the exterior pockets will be removed, and the jacket will be cut similar to that of a suit jacket or blazer. It will be more rigid, and the soft shawl collar may be replaced with a notch, shawl or peak lapel that’s more similar to that of a suit.

For jackets that do come with buttons, they are usually offered in one, two or three-button options. Since these jackets are mostly worn instead of a tuxedo or dinner jacket, we recommend sticking with a one button closure and a shawl or a peak lapel. If you do happen to select a two or three button jacket, consider one with frog braiding. These jackets are closer related to that of a dinner jacket as opposed to a smoking jacket or dressing gown.

Contemporary smoking jackets for black tie optional affairs

These newer dinner jacket styles are far more popular today than the classic smoking jacket and are far easier to find in stores.

Colors and Patterns

There are some very traditional and common colors for classic smoking jackets. These include:

1. Navy Blue
2. Burgundy or Wine
3. Olive or Dark Green
4. Black

In recent years and with the change of trends, new colors have begun to emerge and can be found in smoking jackets still sold today.

1. Purple
2. Grey
3. Red
4. Bronze
5. Mustard Yellow
6. Red
7. Royal Blue
8. Brown

Traditionally, smoking jackets would feature a shawl collar that was the same color as the jacket. Over time, the design began to change, and contrasting collars became fairly standard. Most of the time it was a color from the same family (navy blue jacket with a light blue collar, but often it would be a white collar or a cream collar instead.

Tom Ford smoking jacket for the modern man

With silk smoking jackets, the option of having a pattern was far more accessible. The options were seemingly endless, and attractive patterns consisted of paisleys, checks, diamonds and even micro patterns like herringbone or other geometric patterns. In contrast, the collars for these jackets would often be solid or have a different pattern that paired well with the jacket.

Materials Used

The two most common materials used for the construction of smoking jackets include velvet and silk. However, there is a relatively wide range of fabrics used for jackets today and with a recent comeback of the jacket, many purveyors have begun to sell less costly smoking jackets made from polyester and other synthetic materials.

The most common materials found today are:

• Velvet (cotton, silk is hard to find
• JacquardSilk
• Cashmere
• Wool
• Flannel
• Corduroy
• Plush
• Cotton
• Linen
• Polyester
• Velveteen
• Sateen
• Satin (made from silk, nylon or more commonly, polyester)
• Nylon
• Rayon

Of course, it’s important to keep in mind that the practical use of a smoking jacket is to protect your clothing from smoke, and most of these fabrics won’t offer significant protection. Hence, a true smoking jacket will be made of heavy silk or cotton velvet to keep your clothes relatively free of smoke. The cuffs and collar may be constructed using the same material or a contrasting material such as a quilted satin. The lining of the jacket is usually silk satin, bemberg or a combination of synthetic materials.

How To Wear A Smoking Jacket

Deciding how to wear a smoking jacket is open for debate. There are basically three arguments:

1. That the smoking jacket is for loungewear, only in the comfort of your home for use after dinner or while smoking.
2. That the smoking jacket can be worn in lieu of a dinner jacket when entertaining guests in your own home.
3. That the smoking jacket can be worn out of the house in place of a tuxedo to formal dinner parties, a night at the opera or simply a night out with friends at the bar.

How you choose to wear it is completely up to you. However, we have a few tips on proper etiquette if you’re unsure or need some assistance.

Smoking Jacket Etiquette

The smoking jacket is very much an all-purpose, yet very elegant piece of apparel. To easily identify appropriate use of the smoking jacket, let’s break the jacket up into its two distinct styles:

1. The robe de chambre style with a sash or tie belt.
2. The dinner jacket style with sturdier construction and button – frog fasteners.

Duke and Digham Smoking Jacket

The Sash or Tie Belt Smoking Jacket

Traditional, elegant and timeless. This smoking jacket has the distinct characteristics of a dressing gown with it’s only exception being that it’s cut far shorter and is usually only mid-thigh or hip length. It features a sash or belt that is tied similar to that of a robe and has little construction making it flow against your body rather than sitting the way a blazer would.

For this style, we recommend wearing it in the comfort of your home and not out and about on the town.

Conservatively, you could wear it for the following:

1. As loungewear in the evening between dinner and bedtime when you’re alone or with your family.
2. For smoking in your home to protect your clothing as it’s intended.

If you’re more contemporary, you could wear it in an aforementioned manner or the following ways:

1. Instead of a tuxedo that is too formal or a sweater that is too casual for entertaining guests at your home.
2. While traveling instead of a dressing gown to peruse the hotel or as loungewear when staying as a guest at someone else’s home.
3. While smoking with friends be it indoors or outside in the back yard.
4. At the office if you find your blazer or suit jacket too uncomfortable. Keeping a smoking jacket in your private office is an excellent way to remain professional yet stay comfortable throughout the day.

A perfect outfit for an evening on the town

The Dinner Jacket Style

Since it has the similar construction to a blazer or dinner jacket, this newer version of the smoking jacket is purely intended for wear outside the home. Of course, since it’s often made of velvet, it can still be worn at home while smoking, although it’s often less comfortable to wear as lounge apparel when comfort is your primary goal. This jacket is easily identifiable because it resembles a dinner jacket more than a dressing gown. Instead of a sash or a tie belt, it will fasten with buttons that may be ornamented.

Conservatively, you could wear it for the following:

1. At home to entertain guests when you’re looking for the perfect blend of formality between a tuxedo and a suit.
2. For black tie optional events that are slightly less formal than the traditional black tie. This could be a work holiday party, a red carpet event or another event where the majority of men won’t be wearing a traditional black tuxedo.

If you’re a more contemporary gent, you could also wear them in the following scenarios:

1. Out on the town to the theater, opera or ballet.
2. While celebrating with friends at a nightclub, lounge or restaurant.
3. On a date instead of a blazer, suit or sports jacket.
4. To formal events such as country club dinners, Masonic lodge or celebrations such as weddings, anniversaries, birthdays and retirement parties.
5. To dinner parties or any other traditional event that isn’t traditional black tie or white tie.

Owning a velvet dinner jacket is a staple. It will differentiate you from almost every crowd, and it works in such a wide range of scenarios. It’s truly one of the only jackets that can be worn instead of a simple sweater, a blazer, a business suit or a tuxedo. You can stick with standard colors like navy and black or add a touch of panache with bold paisley patterns, tartan flannels or bright colors.

Avoid tacky costume style smoking jackets that are prevalent these days

Final Tips On How To Wear Them

The biggest rules of thumb are relatively simple and straightforward.

1. Make sure you’re wearing the appropriate style of smoking jacket for the right setting. In other words, leave the tie belt unstructured robe-style at home and wear the more structured dinner jacket style out.
2. A smoking jacket is acceptable in most cases instead of a tuxedo. However, it is not considered an appropriate alternative for white tie. Some seasoned men that are more traditional may not view your smoking jacket with the same esteem as you do should you wear it out of the house. As a matter of politeness, it’s always a good idea to try and appease your host. If you worry they might not think it appropriate, perhaps choose a different jacket from your closet.
3. Wearing a smoking jacket out of the house will get you noticed. Smoking jackets and velvet dinner jackets are rarely seen these days. If you’re an introvert, wearing a smoking jacket will make you stand out from the crowd, especially if it’s in a bold pattern or color. If you do enjoy wearing smoking jackets but want to limit the level of intrigue by others, consider a jacket without ornamental fasteners or oversized buttons; choose collars that aren’t quilted, piped, oversized or contrasting to the jacket; and opt for something in a solid color made from silk, flannel, wool; skip the velvet.

Poorly made smoking jackets stand out even more than the beautiful ones

Gentlemanly Manners And Politeness While Wearing A Smoking Jacket

Perry Como once said that manners are our way of making others feel comfortable. Many people often consider those who “overdress” for the occasion to do so as a method of showing off. For most dandies, that’s simply not the case and what we choose to wear in public is done so with manners in mind. By dressing conservatively, we show our fellow man that they are of great importance to us. We prepared our attire for them. To let them know they mean enough to us to dress up and not just arrive in sweat pants and a hoodie. Sure, we may be slightly overdressed, but it’s our way of letting our host know we care about them and we respect the effort they put into hosting the meeting or affair. It’s those little details that count, and it’s one of the reasons men used to dress up for dinner. It wasn’t about showing off because every man wore the same style of tail coat. It was about letting people know they mattered enough for you to take extra care to look presentable and respectful.

Smoking Jackets are no different. Of course, there are some exceptions. It’s something difficult to argue that a man wearing a gold paisley smoking jacket and spectator shoes isn’t trying to get noticed or draw attention. And in fact, due to the rarity of smoking jackets, one could probably argue simply wearing one out of the house is an effort to attract attention. There are, however, some ways to ensure we are polite in the way we present ourselves while wearing such a conspicuous piece of apparel.

1. Try to stick to classic colors and patterns when wearing a smoking jacket out of the house if you don’t wish to be the center of attention.
2. Be sure to wear it in the proper environments. If you have to question whether it’s appropriate, it probably isn’t.
3. With second and third-hand smoke and so many people being allergic to smoke, it’s a wise idea for the pipe or cigar enthusiast to invest in a single smoking jacket to wear while partaking in tobacco. If you are wearing a smoking jacket in public, try to ensure it’s not one that has been worn while smoking or that it’s been properly laundered before the event.
4. Although it probably doesn’t need to be said, it’s important to wear authentic smoking jackets. Wearing a Halloween costume you bought on eBay for $20 as a smoking jacket isn’t generally a wise idea. Unfortunately, these costume jackets or fashion jackets as they’re sometimes called are the easiest ones to find. Therefore, it’s a really good idea to make sure you’re buying a quality smoking jacket. Often the ones sold online can appear to be authentic when they’re really inferior. Rather than waste your money on something you won’t want to wear, make sure you investigate its quality.
5. It’s become trendy for many men to have made-to-measure or bespoke smoking jackets monogrammed or emblazoned with a decal. It is also easier to find a monogrammed or branded smoking jacket off the rack than it is to find one that isn’t.
6. Avoid ostentatious labeling on your smoking jackets. It’s difficult to be taken seriously when wearing a smoking jacket with a Playboy Bunny logo on the chest. Monograms are certainly more conservative, but avoid having your smoking jacket monogrammed on the breast if you plan to wear it while entertaining or out of the house. Instead, if you do choose to monogram it, have a small monogram stitched into the lining on the inside pocket or the upper abdomen. This will certify it as yours and make it easily identifiable when having it laundered or tailored.

Be careful when purchasing preowned

How To Buy a Smoking Jacket

With smoking jackets, it all comes down to quality. It’s important to use the same techniques you would employ when purchasing a suit or any other formal garment.

1. Make sure the materials are of high quality. Try and avoid synthetic materials such as polyester, rayon and nylon. If it’s labeled as ‘satin’, confirm whether it’s derived from silk or if it’s the more prevalent poly-blend material.
2. Make sure the craftsmanship is satisfactory. Many of the newer haberdashers that sell smoking jackets online are offering less expensive versions with shoddy workmanship. There’s nothing worse than having stitching come loose when you’re out.
3. Make sure it fits well. If you do buy off the rack, take it to your alterations tailor immediately after purchase. For made-to-measure or bespoke, ensure you hire a reputable tailor or company to craft it.

The unfortunate difference between a smoking jacket and a suit is that suits aren’t often created and sold for the purpose of wearing as a costume. However, a quick search for smoking jackets on websites like Google, Amazon or eBay will primarily net you results for Halloween costumes, theatrical costumes and poorly made jackets marketed towards those wanting to replicate the style of Hugh Hefner.

Unfortunately, today most young men associate smoking jackets with Mr. Hefner and rarely even think to associate it with gentlemen of style such as Fred Astaire, Cary Grant or Frank Sinatra. It’s Hefner’s popularity and constant media attention that has earmarked the smoking jacket as a symbol of a debaucherous or philandering lifestyle. It’s taken something away from the elegance and sophistication of the smoking jacket but has also reduced the quality of jackets sold today to attract a younger generation focused less on quality and more on fast fashion. One thing I often suggest to people looking to buy a smoking jacket is to ask themselves whether their grandfather would have worn it or whether their son in college would wear it. If it belongs at a frat party, chances are it doesn’t belong in your closet.

When you are ready to purchase a smoking jacket, there is a broad range of them available, albeit a very small selection compared to other apparel. The prices for a quality jacket typically range from just a few hundred dollars upwards of thousands. Like buying a suit, it depends on whether you purchase it off-the-rack, made-to-measure or bespoke.

Smoking jacket that’s perfect for a night on the town

Vintage Smoking Jackets

Another way to find a quality smoking jacket at a reasonable price is to look for vintage jackets on sites like eBay or at brick and mortar vintage stores. It’s still quite difficult to find them in good condition, but occasionally you’ll come across a great deal. Like buying new, you’ll want to ensure the jacket isn’t designed for costume use and the same as you would buying a tailcoat or morning coat on eBay, it’s best to avoid jackets designed for rental.

The condition of the actual jacket is probably the most important thing to consider. Of course, whenever you buy something vintage it’s worth it to ensure the product is in good condition, however, since smoking jackets are designed for smoking, you’ll want to ensure there are no burn marks, holes, buried smells that won’t come out or discoloration to the garment. Since many men wear smoking jackets as lounge wear, you also have to question what they wear under it. This is less important when buying a dinner jacket style, but a solid rule to follow when purchasing a sash or tie-belt style for lounging in. It’s worth a message to the seller to ask them upfront what it was commonly worn for, and it’s vital to have it laundered as soon as it arrives.

Today, the most common style sold new is the dinner jacket style. There are but a small handful of purveyors that sell quality smoking jackets with the traditional sash. They can be very difficult to find, but fortunately, there are a couple of places that have a regular selection available for sale. Like many other items of clothing, certain designers will feature smoking jackets during specific seasons. You may very well see a smoking jacket from Tom Ford or Brooks Brothers one year, but be unable to find it the very next. Therefore, if you do come across one you like and can afford, it can be a wise investment to snatch it up while you still can.

Poirot Smoking Jacket

Contemporary Smoking Jacket Brands

There are a few brands in particular that are worthy of your attention. Not all of the brands listed below regularly sell or manufacture smoking jackets, and some make a range of smoking jackets at various price points and levels of quality.

Daniel Hanson

Daniel Hanson over the years made a small selection of off-the-rack jackets, but primarily manufacturers bespoke smoking jackets and dressing gowns. Unfortunately, their website is terrible, and it is difficult to buy from them. If you are ever in Nottingham, you can arrange for a fitting, or you may or may not find one at Harrods. Considering they are Made in England $1,000 to $1,500 seems fair.

Tom Ford

Tom Ford is, in part, responsible for the rebirth of the smoking jacket. He reintroduced the design a few years ago for celebrity clients that wore his jackets on the red carpet. Quickly, the comatose smoking jacket became trendy again, and soon Tom Ford jackets could be seen on A-list stars around the world. However, unlike the most traditional jackets, many of his designs are far more flamboyant and contemporary. Made by Zegna, they are also quite costly usually selling upwards of a couple of thousand dollars.

Brooks Brothers

Over the years, Brooks Brothers has maintained a small selection of smoking jackets that will appear in store or online for a short time and then take a hiatus from the shelves. Generally, in the past, they have been more traditional, and although they often sell velvet dinner jackets, it’s a rare treat to find the lounge-style smoking jacket on their site. Usually priced at around $1,000 they are usually quite subdued and unexciting.

Derek Rose

Although the brand is based in Britain, their smoking jackets are made in Eastern Europe, bringing the price down to $300 – $500. Currently, they offer a tartan smoking jacket for loungewear. Click here to buy it or click here to read more about Derek Rose in our pajama guide.

A silk smoking jacket from Duke and Digham

Duke & Digham

Duke & Digham represents the budget option among smoking jackets. Starting at $100 you get a blend of polyester and other synthetics, but they also offer a vast number of jackets in the $300 – $700 range made from higher quality materials. The range made by Duke & Digham is primarily lounge-style with a sash or tie belt. If you are looking to start a collection, this a great way to begin. You can purchase their jackets online via their website or often find a far better deal on websites like eBay and Amazon.

However, often the ones sold on eBay and Amazon don’t lay claim to be genuine and are called New York Style instead or are advertised unbranded. Why this is, we’re not certain. Therefore, it’s almost imperative that you compare the listing on eBay or Amazon to the selection on their website.

A few months ago, I test-ordered a smoking jacket from eBay advertised as “New York Style Smoking Jacket”. It was identical in appearance to the Leopold jacket on Duke & Digham’s website, and the description was the same. Once it arrived, it was evident it was the same jacket. It arrived in a Duke & Digham box, wrapped in the travel bag and contained all of the necessary labels. The jacket is stunning in navy, made from plush velvet cotton with hand-stiched quilted cuffs and a matching shawl collar. It adheres to the classic rules of the traditional smoking jacket, complete with a pocket for cigars. It’s warm in the cold winter months and is actually one of my favorite jackets in my collection. Duke & Digham has earned at least one new customer: me.

Click here to buy one today.

Various Bespoke Tailors

If you are intent on purchasing a bespoke smoking jacket, almost any reputable tailor should be able to craft one for you. A trip to Savile Row in London, House of Bijan in Beverly Hills or a range of tailors in Italy will prove fruitful, and you’ll end up with a beautiful smoking jacket to call your own.

Various Fashion Designers

There is also a range of fashion designers that periodically sell traditional smoking jackets and regularly sell the dinner jacket style. A quick trip to any fashion destination will net you a range of jackets to choose from. However, typical of brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Etro and other brands that sell in stores like Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, you’ll be looking at prices that average a few thousand dollars for quality that is – in most cases – of significantly less value.

Conclusion

The beauty of the smoking jacket is that it is a very personal statement. It can be worn in such a wide range of scenarios instead of casual wear or formal wear. They come in so many different styles and materials that you can always find something that suits you and your needs.

The best part is its rarity. One could assume that if you wear a smoking jacket to an affair of 200 people, you’ll probably still be the only person wearing one. It’s a great way of showing off your creativity and style while maintaining a sophisticated grace. You will be noticed, but almost always in a good way.

Finally, we love that you can find smoking jackets for nearly all budgets. Sure, the costume ones get thrown in the mix and make it difficult to discern quality from nonsense in the lower price category, but you can still get a reasonably well-made jacket for under $500 if you look around.

Do you own a smoking jacket? Would you wear it out of the house? What brands do you like? Let us know.

This guide was written by J.A. Shapira and Sven Raphael Schneider

In the recent past, we introduced you to some iconic and popular footwear options such as the  Jodhpur, Chelsea, and Chukka boots. However, regarding shoes, we have only focused on boat shoes and thus today we are going to describe an extremely popular but often little-understood shoe – the Brogue.

Brogue Shoes Video

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The Definition of Brogue

The term brogue also refers to an Irish accent and is generally used to describe certain other regional accents from the United Kingdom, namely from Scotland and the English West Country. However, this is clearly not what we are talking about but interestingly this term is supposed to have its origins from the perception that the Irish spoke as if they had ‘a shoe in their mouths’. The Irish word brog means ‘a rough or stout shoe’. Apparently, brog or brogue was also used to denote shoes.

To correctly understand what a Brogue is, one must comprehend the meaning of broguing.  The Merriam–Webster dictionary describes broguing (brogue: ing – noun) as an ornamentation of shoes employing heavy perforations and pinking. Therefore, it stands to reason that a shoe, any shoe, with perforations is a brogue – no matter if it is a Derby like the Budapester or Oxford shoe.

Maftei Full Brogue Oxford in tan with steel tips side view by Claymoorslist

Oxford or Derby

Many people confuse the term Oxford with Brogue. Of course, we use the term Oxford in the traditional sense, which is characterized by its lacing system or to be specific: by the shoelace eyelets that are attached under the vamp. This is also called ‘closed lacing.’

On the other hand, a Derby has ‘open lacing’ where the eyelets are attached to the top of the vamp.

Derby Alfonso full brogue ankle boot in green nubuck leather by Scarosso

A detailed description of Oxford and Derby shoe is beyond the scope of this article, however, suffice to say that while initially Oxfords were plain formal shoes, they subsequently evolved into a range of styles both formal and casual. Some of these styles feature broguing or perforations along the edges of the individual leather pieces and thus can be called Brogues.

To sum it up: Oxfords are not always Brogues though they sometimes are and Brogues are not always Oxfords though some of them can be. It is the lacing system and the absence or presence of broguing that is the differentiating feature.

Wholecut with side gussets by George Cleverly with punched broguing

Origins of Brogues

The Brogue was originally designed in Scotland and Ireland as a shoe suitable for wearing while working outdoors. The Irish and Scottish countryside is wet and characterized by bogs that made life very difficult for the people who worked there and, as was expected, their feet took a beating. The need of the hour was a pair of shoes that were suitable for this type of work and terrain. The original Brogues were rudimentary shoes made with untanned animal hide; their distinctive feature was a series of perforations and serrations (broguing) of each piece of leather that was used in their construction. The purpose of these perforations was to allow water to drain from the shoes. Another feature of their design was that they were laced by leather tangs and did not have the tongue as in other shoes; they also had high lacing that wrapped above the ankles. This design feature kept the laces free from muck and dirt and prevented the shoes from being sucked off while walking in the mud. This basic design is now known as the ‘ghillie brogue’ and is often considered the standard style for traditional Scottish dress footwear.

Brogue Characteristics & Styles

Listing the characteristics of the Brogue is a daunting task as it is a very versatile shoe and comes in various shapes. However, for the sake of convenience, the basic characteristics  you will find in most brogues are as follows  (not all brogues may have all these basic characteristics):

1. Low heels
2. Presence of toe caps.
3. The presence of heel caps.
4. The presence of lace panels.
5. The presence of Broguing or (now) decorative perforations.

Various designs have evolved over time, and so subcategories of brogues were created.

Full Brogue by Grenson

1. Full brogues or Wingtips – these have a pointed toe cap with extensions called wingtip that extends along both sides of the shoe and usually ends near the ball of the foot. When seen from above the cap is shaped like a ‘W’ or ‘M’ depending on the viewpoint. It features broguing along its edges as well as decorative broguing in the center of the toe cap, which is called Medallion. There are a few variations to this style. 

• Wingtip toe cap with broguing only on the edges and without Medallion are called blind brogues.
• Spectator shoes are full brogues or wingtips in two contrasting colors. Usually, the toe and heel caps and sometimes the lace panels are in a darker color than the main body of the shoe. Typically the main body of the shoe is made of white or off white leather or canvas fabric, but lately, all kinds of materials, colors, and textures have been utilized including tweed.
• Longwing brogues differ from full brogues or wingtips in that the wings extend along the full length of the shoe and meet at a center seam at the heel. Sometimes they are referred to as ‘English brogues’ in the US and as ‘American brogues’ in the UK. Most of the time longwing brogues are made as a derby, but Oxford longwing brogues exist.
• Wingtip toe cap without any broguing (either along the edge of the toe cap or in its center) is called an austerity brogue even though technically it cannot be called a brogue due to the complete absence of any broguing.

2. Semi or Half brogues – these have a toe cap without extensions or wings and feature broguing both along the cap’s edge and sides and have a medallion. This style was first designed by the famous London shoemakers John Lobb Ltd in 1937. Today, you will find many variations of the semi brogue, including V cap, cap without medallion, and a second, recessed piece of brogued leather behind the cap.

Crockett & Jones Belgrave half quarter brogue

3. Quarter brogues – like the semi or half brogues these have toe caps without points and extensions or wings. However, they differ from the semi or half brogues in that they have broguing only along the caps edge and not anywhere else and feature no medallion.

Ghillie Brogue in brown by Crockett & Jones

4. Ghillie brogues – the standard style for traditional formal Scottish dress footwear  (including evening dress in black) is a Full brogue or wingtip but differs from them in that they do not have a tongue and have long laces that that wrap around the legs above the ankle and are tied below the calf.

5. Modern variations – of course you will find all kinds of modifications of these classic styles. One of the more popular variations is the U-cap or U-tip which is a an adaptation of a full brogue.

Brogues also feature a variety of closure styles or lacing systems, however, these are not defining characteristics of a brogue except in the case of the Ghillie brogue. Some of the common closure styles available are laced Oxfords (closed lacing system) , Derby (open lacing system), Monk straps (both double and single), slip on system (with or without elastic), loafers, and even boots (with or without laces).

Brogue Style Advice

Brogues were originally designed for outdoor wear and were worn by the working class predominantly in Scotland and Ireland. Slowly over time they were used by country gentlemen as an outdoor country walking shoe. It is because of these very roots that they were not considered appropriate wear for other social or business occasions during that time. However, things changed in the twentieth century when the brogue was used as a template for fashionable women’s footwear. The perforations or broguing were now used solely for decorative purposes. Famous celebrity women such as the actresses Marlene Dietrich and Katherine Hepburn incorporated it into their signature style of daring masculine fashion choices. The model Twiggy also favoured the shoe, reportedly made by George Cleverly after she challenged him to design her pair of flat shoes. All this led to a rise in its popularity. Due to this influence, perceptions began to change and slowly the brogue began to be considered appropriate wear, even for men for most occasions both social and business.

Twiggy in George Cleverly spectator full brogues

By the 1920’s, brogues were extremely popular with men, especially in the United States but also in England and continental Europe the brogue was now an integral part of one’s show wardrobe. Famous men like Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, or Cary Grant all brogue shoes regularly.

How to Wear Brogues

Even today, a full brogue would formally not be considered the proper shoe to wear with a three-piece pin-stripe suit, whereas a quarter brogue in black or oxblood is a perfect business shoe.

1. As a rule of thumb, always bear in mind that a shoe is less formal the more broguing it has and vice versa. As such, full brogues are perfect when combined with anything related to country attire, and semi brogues in a darker brown color are very versatile and can be worn with tweed as well as casual worsted sports coats and brown suits.
2. Even though Prince William committed this faux pas, brogues are never appropriate for Black Tie or white tie events, unless you wear black ghillie brogues the Scottish Highland dress, and I’d also shy away to wear them with dark three-piece business suits.
3. When worn as a dress shoe with a suit, it is better to opt for either half brogues or quarter brogues as they are not too elaborate and maintain the formality of the outfit. A full brogue is mostly too casual for a worsted suit but will work with tweed or other country fabrics.
4. On other semi–formal occasions where a suit is not required and where a blazer or a sports coat will suffice the wingtip or muted spectator makes for an ideal choice. It maintains just the right amount of formality and casualness.
5. In a casual setting , he brogue can be paired with jeans, chinos, and most other casual trousers.
6. Brogues come in a variety of colors with the classic colors being brown and black. Of course, there are endless shades of brown but personally I also like oxblood very much and even navy or dark green will work well as brogues. And these are the safe choices when it comes to wearing them for formal occasions. Spectator shoes are not everybody’s cup of tea and can be difficult to pull off. I like to pair my brown white spectators with light colored or brown trousers while others prefer to wear them on the golf course only. If you have confidence in your style you can wear them anywhere you want – except for formal occasions of course. The basic rules for matching shoes colors with the rest of your outfit apply here as well.
7. While most brogues are made of boxcalf leather, they are available in suede, scotch grain, and all kinds of other leathers. Ideally you should opt for smooth or at least uniform leathers to make the broguing shine. For example ostrich brogues or stingray are so dominant that a brogue shoe would look simply horrid.
8. Most brogues you see will be the traditional kind of regular or symmetrical hole perforations. However, in recent years I have also seen more creative broguing such as shotgun or buck shot brogues that look a bit like somebody fired a shotgun onto the leather. So, if you are more inclined to go fashion forward this could be an interesting way to combine the classic look.
9. While I have seen some men wear brogues with shorts, I have to confess that I am not a fan of this look at all. For me brogues work especially well with Blazers, Hacking Jackets, sports coats, casual suits in lighter colors and tweed or even a Harrington jacket.
10. Every man should have at least one pair of brogue shoes and once you increase the number of shoes in your collection, probably half of your shoes or more will have some sort of broguing. If versatility is your goal, the oxblood semi brogue is probably the way to go but a chestnut brown will also work with many outfits. Of course, if you work at a bank, law firm, or a similar white collar job, go with black quarter brogues. If you are kind of in between, suede full or half brogue in various shades of brown are appropriate. For country boots, I like tan but I also half full brogue  boots in oxblood cordovan.

Buying Brogues

It would be impossible to list all manufacturers of brogues and even if I would narrow it down to 50 or 100 companies that produce quality footwear, it would still be difficult. In the future, we will publish another guide on how to purchase quality footwear in general, which will also apply to brogues. With this general guide on brogues, you should be able to find brogue footwear that fits your style and suits your needs.

What are your favorite brogues and why?

This guide was created by Sven Raphael Schneider & Vikram Nanjappa.

We are asked all the time: What’s the best black bow tie for my tuxedo or dinner jacket?

My answer is…it depends! In today’s guide, I want to show you can find the best black bow tie for you, what fabric and style options you have and how they compare to each other. 

Regardless of if you do not own a single black bow tie or if you are a black tie veteran who wants to invest in his 20th version, this guide is for you. There are 6 categories of black bow ties, and they are defined primarily by their fabric and then secondarily by their shape.

Assorted Black Bow Ties in Satin, Shantung, Faille, Barathea & Moire

1. Black Silk Satin Bow Tie – The Classic Choice

The black satin silk bow tie is the most popular black bow tie out there simply because most tuxedo lapels are faced with satin. Traditionally, the material of the bow tie should match the tuxedo lapels it is paired with, and so satin is the number one choice.

Satin is not Satin

So, what exactly is Satin? Satin is a specific weave with more warp than weft threads that is known for its rich lustre. As such, it is popular for evening garments, especially tuxedos, dinner jackets and tailcoats. Just like with most other fabrics, Satin can be woven in many different ways, and the quality can vary hugely from one fabric to another. Some have more weft threads than others, some have a wider spacing between intersections of warp and wefts, and some have unequal distances between them.

The best satin is made of silk with equal spacing. This kind of satin is much more labor intensive to produce and costs much more.

Black Bow Tie in Silk Satin Sized Butterfly Self Tie with Red Carnation Boutonniere and Classic White Irish Linen Pocket Square – Fort Belvedere

Go with Silk Satin

Satin can be woven from wool, silk, cotton, polyester, etc. but for black bow ties, they are usually made of silk, polyester or a blend. It goes without saying that you should always opt for 100% silk because the look is much more sophisticated than a polyester bow tie. Again, not all silk satins are alike and cheaper ones tend to have a shine that resembles the look of polyester, while high-quality silk satins have this wonderful sheen that is difficult to describe in words.

Fort Belvedere only uses the best silk satin with many warp threads that are widely and equally spaced. It is exclusively woven in Italy and costs many times as much as silk satins that are made in China, but it also looks the part. You can see in the photos how they reflect the light to create a lovely effect of depth, which is particularly important on a very dark ensemble.

Skip Adjustable Bow Ties

Most black bow ties on the market today are adjustable because they are easy to produce, one-size-fits-it-all, easy to stock, and less expensive for the dealer.

However, proper gentlemen prefer sized bow ties for four reasons:

1. When worn with a detachable or wing collar, an adjustable bow tie will show the clasp in the back, which is not desirable. A sized bow tie will have one continuous silk band that looks great all the way around.
2. When worn with turndown collars the way James Bond does, you cannot see the clasp of an adjustable bow tie when you wear it. However, it is common practice to untie your black bow tie at the end of the event. So not only does it reveal who tied his bow tie and who didn’t, but it also shows who has the sized bow tie with a continuous neckband.
3. Metal clasps can rust and rub off on fabric; sized bow ties have no metal that can ruin your expensive evening clothes
4. Adjustable bow ties can be too big for smaller neck sizes, such as 14 or 14.5

Therefore, get a bow tie that is sized for you, and no one else. It goes without saying that all of our Fort Belvedere Black Bow Ties come sized with a continuous neckband, so you look your best.

Simply measure your neck size to determine what size you are. Do not rely on the sizing of your shirt manufacturer because they are often incorrect.

Back Strap of Black Silk Satin Bow Tie

Tie Your Own Bow Tie

A man must tie his own bow tie. If you don’t know how, you can learn how to do so here even if you have never done it before:

Butterfly Bow Tie – Perfect For The First Black Bow Tie

The Butterfly shape is an all time classic that you can wear now or 20 years from now. When sized properly it will always look timeless, elegant and never out of place.

I designed a butterfly bow tie for Fort Belvedere with beautiful curves that works for 95% of all face shapes out there. If this is the first black bow tie you buy, I suggest you start with this one.

White Dinner Jacket with Black Batwing Bow Tie

Batwing Bow Tie – The Other Classic

The batwing is cut in a rectangular shape and because it is easy to produce it is often the shape used by cheap pre-tied manufacturers. In the right size, it can look flattering, but a beautiful butterfly wins 10 out of 10 times in my opinion.

Black Self-Tie Bow Tie in Silk Satin Sized with Pointed Ends – Fort Belvedere

Pointed Ends – The Classic With A Twist

While you can find many batwing and butterfly bow ties in black satin, very few come in a shape with pointed diamond ends. Hence, this shape is favored by gentlemen who already have a few black bow ties and now want something else.

It’s best for the person who already has a butterfly and batwing shape and who wishes to add a special touch to one’s black tie ensemble.

I designed a new diamond shape for Fort Belvedere, and I let the pictures speak for themselves.

Back of Black Single End Bow Tie in Silk Satin Butterfly Self Tie by Fort Belvedere

Single End Bow Tie

This is the crème de la crème of black bow ties. As the name implies, single end bow ties have just one end. As a result, they look sleeker than the regular bow ties and provide you with a very debonair look. This kind of bow tie was favored for the elegant dandy of the 1920’s and 1930’s who wanted to look particularly dapper.

Extremely hard to find, Fort Belvedere has the largest selection of black single end bow ties in the world today. It’s the icing on the cake for bespoke lovers and black tie aficionados who want to top of their black tie outfit. You can find it in satin, small satin, wide rib grosgrain, moire, and faille.

Single End bow ties come in one size since they adjust to every neck size. No worries, you will not see an ugly adjustment clasp anywhere.

You can learn how to tie it in the video below (yes it is different from a regular bow tie)

Black Bow Tie in Silk Barathea Sized Butterfly Self Tie and Cummerbund in Black Silk Barathea

2. Barathea Bow Tie

Barathea is a fabric that is basically a twill hopsack weave. As such, it is matte when compared to satin, and popular with gentlemen in the UK who often have their dinner jackets faced with barathea silk instead of silk satin. So, if you do not like the lustre of silk satin, Barathea is the bow tie for you.

Take a closer look here.

Black Bow Tie and Cummerbund in Black Faille Grosgrain

3. Faille / Grosgrain Bow  Tie

Black Faille or Grosgrain bow ties are definitely the exception to the rule. Both fabrics have a ribbed texture that is generally only used for custom tailcoats or high-end tuxedos. The ribbed texture is visibly different from Satin or Barathea, and it shows the world that you are a black tie connoisseur. If you have a tuxedo with faille or grosgrain, you need a bow tie in those material, and you will look like a million bucks. If you have a satin lapel, and you want to try something different, you can try a wide rib bow tie because it is noticeably different.

Black Bow Tie in Silk Wide Rib Grosgrain Sized Butterfly – Fort Belvedere

Difference between Faille & Grosgrain

Faille is a plain weave with more warp threads than weft threads, which is why you get a flat ribbed effect.

Grosgrain is a type of poplin fabric with wider, larger ribs. It is often confused with faille, and, therefore, people use these two terms interchangeably. Both have more warp than weft threads, and grosgrain has thicker ribs that can be achieved with more silk warp threads or thicker cotton warps to bring the cost down.

At Fort Belvedere, we offer all Silk Faille fine rib as Butterfly and a wide Rib Grosgrain as a Butterfly & Single End. It’s the largest selection of faille and grosgrain bow ties you will find anywhere, so if you want to look the part, these are the bow ties for you.

Black Single End Bow Tie in Silk Moire Butterfly Self Tie – Fort Belvedere

4. Moire

Moire, also known as watered silk, is a bow tie fabric for the man who wants to be in the spotlight. Even though people refer to is as watered silk, this fabric does never see any water. Instead, the wavy effect is achieved by running two layers or faille fabric through a rolling press.

It’s an uncommon cloth that is only produced by very few mills but over the centuries, Moire has always been popular with aristocrats, eccentrics, and men of taste. You can check out our moire bow tie here.

Black Bow Tie in Silk Shantung Sized Butterfly Self Tie

5. Shantung Silk

The characteristic of shantung silk is its knots in the fabric. While the uneducated might consider it to be a defect in the fabric, connoisseurs have an appreciation for the visible irregularities of Shantung. The raw material of silk comes from the cocoon and because it is a natural product, it has an irregular thickness. When combining these strands of raw silk material into yarn, a certain consistency can be achieved. However, it is also possible to create threads with thicker and thinner diameters. When they are woven into fabric, areas with a wider diameter appear as little knobs on the silk.

Because of this relaxed character, Shantung Silk is perfect for unusual dinner jackets or warmer climates and appreciated by men who do not want to conform with the rest. Take a closer look at our Shantung bow tie here.

Black Silk Grenadine Bow Tie with Pointed Ends – Handmade by Fort Belvedere

6. Black Grenadine

Grenadine is a special gauze weave that is very popular for neckties, but it is usually not made into bow ties. We decided to give it a try to accommodate the fashion-forward male who wants to create a different, yet classically inspired look. If you have a beard, this is not the right bow tie for you since beard hair will pull threads from the Grenadine fabric. Otherwise, the black grenadine bow tie will certainly make you stand out from the crowd.

Now that you know what bow tie options you have, and which one will work for you, the choice is not over yet. Stay tuned for our next guide on black tie accessories and in the meantime discover them first hand in our online shop.

Most 20-year old men feel comfortable wearing flip flops, sweat pants, and hoodies, but not so Ethan Wong from Street X Sprezza aka The Teenage Gentleman. As a teenager, he became interested in classic men’s clothing and he started building a wardrobe on a very tight budget using vintage clothes.

In today’s interview, Ethan shares:

• How he was able to build a wardrobe on a few dollars & how you can do it too
• What tricks he uses to find modern clothes that fit
• Where he gets his stuff from & who inspires him
• How people react to his outfits and more

This interview is particularly helpful to young men, and teenagers who want to develop their own, classic style without breaking the bank.

Video

Interview:

Sven Raphael Schneider: Most 20-year-olds wear flip flops, hoodies and sweatpants and you, on the other hand, have a more 30’s inspired style. Tell us more about it and how you got into that.

Ethan Wong: Well, I guess what really stood out to me from the 1930’s is that everyone was very elegantly dressed. Everything was sharply tailored. I think the best thing I love about it is that there’s no breaks, everything is clean lines, very fitted silhouette and just looking at today’s fashion, I just thought it’s either really baggy or really skinny, I just wanted the clean shape.

Sven Raphael Schneider: What was the first kind of touch point for you? When did you see this and thought for yourself “Man, this is what I would like to wear!”?

Dapper DB outfit

Ethan Wong: Twice a year, they have a dapper day at Disneyland, and I think I was on FaceBook, I was like “Wow this thing is really cool, it’s a place where, it’s an event where people go to Disneyland dressed up vintage or vintage inspired or modern. They just go dapper, a very general term but I remember looking at one of the pictures, I saw these guys wearing double breasted suits. They weren’t the typical like 1980’s flecked in a really low six on one but it was the real thing, windowpane patterns. This is about the time that I stumbled upon “I am, Dandy” by Rose Callahan and Natty Adams.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Wonderful Ethan! I think you just finished a bachelor’s degree in Accounting. I was wondering, how were you perceived at school? Did people like what they see? Did they make fun if you? Did they respect you more? What was the perception?

Ethan Wong: So in college, when I was dressed up, I’d wear a button down shirt and, jeans, and everytime else, it would be just like a t-shirt, gym shorts and even like my lanyard would be around my neck and my keys and everything. I saw some older guys, probably early 20’s and they were wearing button up shirts, but they were tucked in with chino pants, and I thought “Wow, that looks really good!” and I just thought, it kind of came with me, this was before vintage, this is just dressing up in general. I just decided that if I want to do that, why can’t I do that?It’s kind of my attitude toward everything. So I started to dress up very little by little, wear different jeans, better shoes and eventually at the end of my freshman year, I would wear ties, but they weren’t where I am now, just like a normal tie with button up, jeans, cardigan or something like that. I got to that point where I kind of had a small reputation at school, the guy who was always in a tie, always in a blazer and it just kind of evolved from there. My sophomore year, I made friends with this Indian guy, his name is Raj, he’s from Marilyn, and he was really good too. We saw each other at a distance and wow, we’re both into fashion, but we are in college.

Raj & Ethan

Sven Raphael Schneider: So in the beginning, did people ask you “Oh, where are you going today? What event do you have?” and then after a while they probably stopped doing that or did they call you a douchebag or what were the reactions?

Ethan Wong: I went to a Christian university so for a lot of us, when you’re dressed up, it’s going to church. You kind of associate that with someone so “Why is this guy trying so hard?” “Are you trying to be a pastor, what’s going on?”, Me and Raj we would just kind of pass it off. I think the thing that we got most often is “Are you even comfortable wearing that?”, It’s coming from a guy wearing sweatpants, and I’m like “Well, I don’t know. Are you comfortable with what you’re wearing? I wouldn’t wear something I am not comfortable in.” I could sleep in this, I have fallen asleep in my clothes before, you know, and so does Raj.

Ethan wearing lighter colors

Sven Raphael Schneider: How often would you say do you wear a jacket during any given week, I mean sport coats, jackets, kind of classic men’s wear jackets?

Ethan Wong: I’d say probably five times a week. Five out of seven.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Okay, what do you wear when you don’t go vintage? You mentioned that you have a lot of vintage items but also newer ones, tell us about your style when it’s not all vintage.

Ethan Wong: Yeah actually I’m wearing modern clothes right now. I mean if you count the 70’s modern, I kind of do because when you’re in the community, everything is 20’s to maybe like early 50’s. Everything after that is kind of like; that’s too modern.

Navy suit paired with fair isle sweater vest

Sven Raphael Schneider: So, what are you wearing today?

Ethan Wong: Well I’m wearing a 70’s jacket with elbow patches, a paisley tie, a modern Uniqlo shirt and I’m wearing suit supply pants and Aleen Edmond shoes. It looks like it could be vintage, I have a 30’s jacket that looks almost identically to this, same pattern, same weave, same fit but it’s from the 30’s. The label inside is different; there’s a vent in the back.

Sven Raphael Schneider: That’s great, so that means you combine clothes from different decades, right?

Ethan Wong: I do that, I tend to leave the 30’s stuff pretty much by itself. The most modern thing that maybe I’d wear is a custom shirt that has a 30’s spear point collar and everything, but I’m totally open to everything else like you know, 50’s, 60’s, anything after the golden era for me, I’d combine it with my modern clothes.

Sven Raphael Schneider: So, do you also go to 1920’s or is the 30’s where it ends for you?

Ethan Wong: I don’t think I own anything from 1920’s, it’s pretty rare to get something that’s that old. I think I do have a peak lapel, herringbone weave, wool, purple jacket from the 1920’s, late 20’s it looks pretty early 30’s to me and that might be the oldest thing I own and anything earlier than that, if you look at J.C Leyendecker that have like the 20’s style, with the belt and everything, I can’t find that, I’d wear it, but I can’t find it, and also, I do want to point out that the early 20’s stuff, I dare not use the word feminine, I know some people who love wearing that stuff, the Homburg or the very Edwardian kind of stuff and for me, I think the 30’s to me, is timeless. If I wasn’t wearing a fedora or something, it wouldn’t be that much different from what people wear today. Maybe a little bit fuller cut in the pants but the jackets, they’re just fitted the way I want them to today.

Purplish Burgundy blazer

Sven Raphael Schneider: Okay, so you mentioned a few items. Could you tell us more about your favorite stores or sources of inspiration for your outfits?

Ethan Wong: I mainly shop, for vintage items let’s start with that one. I mainly go on eBay; I do have a few vintage dealers I’m friends with. I met them through the community. There’s one in particular, Benny Reese, he owns Reese’s Vintage Pieces. He prides himself with being the largest dealer in the US and he’s got a lot of the rare stuff. He’ll go travelling around the Midwest, pick up some random items and he’s a very good friend of mine, I go to a lot of his events at his house, he has a huge collection that every time I’m there “I’m just going to go to the garage and check out stuff you got” and then I’m going to walk out with a tie, walk out with a suit.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Does this store have a website or is it just a local store?

Ethan Wong: Yeah, he has a Facebook page right now, he also has an Etsy account but he does prefer people go instore because I think, he’s got like a huge collection, he doesn’t post everything on there. It helps if you contact him, set an appointment, go to his house and just look at his entire collection.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Ok, so where’s his house?

Ethan Wong: He lives in Pomona, California. I also like to go on eBay, you know, I’ve gotten a J. Crew cardigan for 5 dollars once, and I get a lot of my ties from there as well. I’ll look up Madder tie, and I’ll just find something. It’s been kind of bad because it makes me only buy things that are less than 20 dollars. I go on eBay, Goodwill, local thrift stores and find small statement stuff, a tie or maybe a shirt that I can get tailored later if I like the design or collar. Besides that stuff, I am guilty of going to Uniqlo, H&M, Banana Republic, but I think that when people ask me where I shop, It surprises them because it’s the same places that they would go, same mall, but I’m just wearing it in a different way. I think that’s the big surprise to people, I do wear modern clothes, it’s just I put my own version into it to make it look like me.

Sven Raphael Schneider: So basically, you always try to mix a great, unique outfit. You never go to one store and buy everything from there and just wear it, correct?

1930 casual look

Ethan Wong: Exactly, I work at Banana Republic right now. I’m actually working on my Master’s Degree in Marketing because I found out that I don’t like accounting; that’s a whole different story. We’re supposed to sell to these people, and if anyone at Banana Republic is watching, I definitely do that but I do recommend sometimes you know, if they’re not happy, if they want other options that we don’t offer, there’s nothing wrong with going somewhere else. You can buy a suit from us; you can find a different tie somewhere else. I am always open to give small tidbits of advice to people who come into the store or to people who just come and ask me.

Sven Raphael Schneider: I’m really glad to hear that you’re helping people to find things even though that means that don’t buy all the stuff from your store, and that’s the same philosophy we have here, the many ways to roam, and we try to show people different things which is why we do these interviews because many different people have different styles, and different approaches and everybody can find what’s right for them.

Sven Raphael Schneider: So you have this blog, Street x Sprezza with Timmy Vincent Adam. Tell us more about that.

Single Breasted Sport Coat outfit with classic vintage collar

Ethan Wong: In November of last year, over a year ago actually, I was taking a road trip with my friend, Tim. We were just talking about passion; he was always into photography, and I was really into classic sartorial fashion. I think we both came to the idea that we could both start a blog, and eventually it came to the point now where Tim is more of the photographer side, he’ll be on it very occasionally but when it started, the idea was that he would start talking about street wear cos I don’t know anything about that.I talk about tailoring side and what I think about that, and now, Tim is kind of starting to go on his own projects, and I’m kind of combining it to my personal fashion where it’s not exactly entirely Italian, it is kind of the combination of two, street and sprezza. It’s all about what my style is and how I can help others to find their personal style.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Sounds fantastic! I noticed it’s a WordPress, do you have any ambitions to make it into your own domain one day? What’s the plan going forward?

Ethan Wong: I think eventually we’d want to kind of break it out but right now, it’s kind of just, I’m trying to not have that #menswearblog mindset where you have to be famous, you have to get sponsorships and all that stuff. I’m kind of just wanting it to be right now just an avenue for me to you know “Hey, check out my friend! I just shot a picture of us at a party; this is what we were wearing at school!” or just small rants where I’m talking about pant length, this is how it should be guys!” , so right now, I think the WordPress is okay just to reach the small circle that I’m in right now, people I meet on Facebook and school friends, people like that. In the future, I’m totally open for it to be its own thing.

Ethan wearing a smoking jacket

Sven Raphael Schneider: So you basically want to share your style with people and help them to be inspired. So what are the reactions from people outside the university when they see a 20-year-old that’s really well dressed?

Ethan Wong: In person, when I’m walking down the street people will, most of the time, it’s very positive. Some are like “Wow, you’re such a dapper guy”, “You’re so well dressed”, “What do you do for a living? Even at work sometimes, I think questions about if Banana Republic carries suspenders has increased like five million percent cos I always wear them at work.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Is it different online?

Ethan Wong: Oh man, on Reddit it’s very hard to please people. I’m very surprised cos there’s a whole Reddit sub called /malefashionadvice and it’s very good for people who want to improve their style. Most of them are college people, some High school and some working professionals who never owned a suit in their life. Twice a week they post this “What are you wearing today?” It’s a very polarised opinion, I think when I first started on it, I started because my friend told me about it, I uploaded a picture of me wearing 30’s clothes, and I think it was one of the best dressed in that month, if you look at the comments, it’s very like “Wow, this is great!” or “This is a costume”. I’ll wear something modern, and it will be funny because I would assume people would think “oh it’s not a costume” but it’s still either downvoted or “You’re trying too hard” and I’m so surprised because this is male fashion advice and we’re supposed to foster the atmosphere and yet, with some people, I don’t know if there’s anybody else who could be feeling the pain that I get but I guess people either like it or really don;t like it. It’s very in between, it’s very hard to please them, I have come to point where I was like “no one’s gonna like it, it’s okay” at first, it was a new outlet and I was very hyped up “Wow these guys are actually liking” and it kind of went down so now, to save myself some stress, I’m just going to be like “I’ll just put it up there, if you like it, all good. If not, whatever!” and I think that’s what most guys, in general, should have the attitude about dressing up. As long as you’re okay with it, as long as you like what you’re wearing, by all means, wear it!

Sven Raphael Schneider: I think that’s a very good way to sum it up, it’s all about you. On the internet, people sometimes judge very harshly, and they say things to you that they would never say in person and as such you can’t always take it too seriously.

1930 casual look

Ethan Wong: Yeah, I think that’s my girlfriends’ main advice for me. Ever since I found it, it’s been an outlet for me for fashion and it just kind of backfired a little bit, so I’m taking everyone’s advice at heart and just kind of focusing on myself and how I feel and not what others think.

Sven Raphael Schneider: So what do you do outside of school? What are your hobbies?

Ethan Wong: I think I’ve always been a kind of creative person. Right now I think I’m being creative with what I”m wearing. I think earlier in high school, I was really into making films which kind of led into my pursuing my MBA in marketing. Something creative that I can actually do in a career, I am really into film scoring. One of my biggest inspirations is John Williams, Star Wars, Indian Jones. Above all that, he’s done Christmas music, themes for the Olympics and for me, when music can do that, when you have that kind of feeling that you get from listening to something that has no lyrics, just notes on a page and yet you can feel, internalize emotion. To me, that kind of resonates with me. I love being able to create that kind of stuff.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Marvelous! So, if there was one thing in the style world that you could change today, what would it be?

Vintage look with Spectators and proper pants length

Ethan Wong: I think that I would change pant breaks, I think for some reason men still aren’t getting that correctly. I mean, I have no problem with a very slight break, maybe because I’m a shorter guy who got bigger legs, but no breaks to me or just having it sit at the top of your shoe, to me that’s so important. I look for that.

Sven Raphael Schneider: I totally understand. I think most people wear pants too long which is why we added this mistake to our Style Mistakes & How You Can Avoid Them course. There is a number of ways, and there’s a ratio of how wide are your pants and how much break is okay because if you have puddles, it’s not okay. If you have a slight break in the front, it is okay. Now let’s talk about your wardrobe. At a young age, you were able to build an impressive array of jackets, suits, and accessories. What would you say are your favorite pieces, the ones that you wear the most?

Wearing a turtleneck with greys

Ethan Wong: Well I’d first start off with vintage. I have, one of my favorite vintage items is a two piece 1930’s, very tropical double breatsed suit, it’s fantastic. It’s got a very slight blue windowpane on it, the pants actually flare a little bit. You can actually see where the 70’s got the inspiration from.It’s a belted back jacket, in the vintage community I’m not sure how everyone else, we love belted backs, they’re cool. So my favorite other items, I do own a mid 40’s Borsalino, so that’s probably one of the other coolest things I own. I got it for 85 bucks; you don’t see that often. You don’t see a Borsalino that cheap. I think I have a pair of Stacy Adams spectators, they’re gorgeous. A white and slight burgundy brown, the cap toes are great. Got them on eBay, at first, I only wanted vintage, but now I am trying to you know, I am wearing suspenders now. I’m trying to mesh modern and vintage in my personal style. Those I think I’ve gotten he most wear on them because I wear them a lot especially the summer time cos they look awesome. I think even on the fedora lounge, someone said “Ethan, do you have any other pair of shoes?” I was like “I do but these are great!” With modern clothes, I think one of my favorite jackets would be, I have a suit supply, linen wool blend sport coat that I tend to wear pretty often. I got it when I was first getting into vintage and when I was going to dapper day for the first few times, two years ago.

Tan sport coat combination

Sven Raphael Schneider: So overall, how many jackets and suits do you have in your wardrobe?

Ethan Wong: I think I have about four full suits and maybe about six or seven sport coats.

Sven Raphael Schneider: When I was going through some of your pictures, I saw that you had these children’s suit and it has a huge stain on it but you’re still happy to wear that, that seems odd for some people but in the vintage community, that’s not so unusual. Tell us more about that.

Ethan Wong: I think my first, When I see something with a stain, “well, this is gonna be cheaper!” so that’s kind of the main thing I do. Most of my suits will have holes, linings coming off, or discolored in one part. The suit might be a lighter shade than the pants because maybe the owner wore it out more. There’s always gonna be problems like you said.

Ethan wearing is beloved spectators and a DB suit with faint mini windowpane paired with a boater hat

Sven Raphael Schneider: Yes, some things like a lining can be fixed, right? Or even a moth hole if you have a good invisible mender, it can be fixed, but if it’s a big stain or a huge hole, that’s just not something you can change. So basically, if there’s something you like and you love the cut of it, and it has a big stain, you have to accept that right?

Ethan Wong: Yeah, that’s how I put it. It’s a part of it, you’re wearing a piece of history, you’re wearing something that someone wore. With that particular suit, I think I’ve been suggested that I can soak the suit and I just, I’m too terrified. Might be the reason why I keep wearing it cos I don’t want to ruin the suit. Even though it was thirty dollars, to me it’s worth more than that.

Sven Raphael Schneider: So you’re about 5’8″, 160 pound, average build, not too muscular. What are the things that you can recommend to our readers, viewers and listeners that helped you to find well fitting, flattering clothes?

Vintage Look with iPhone & boater

Ethan Wong:

1. Number one thing is your pants. I’ve been talking about breaks the entire interview. They really can go a long way in how your body looks. I would also suggest having higher waisted pants, it’s a pretty good way to go. I know most people don’t make them now and for me, personally, suit supply, Banana Republic, they don’t make high waist pants.What I’ll do is buy a well length size, about one size longer and I just wear them higher up and to me they don;t look too different than the 30’s stuff I wear. The pockets may be a little disproportional to where they were, but having that higher point where your legs start, that can make a world of difference. I love how long it makes my legs look because it makes me look slimmer and maybe a tad bit taller. Raj was the person who suggested that, he actually wore his pants higher up cos I think we both don’t like too much of a drop crotch situation so we just hike them up, and I like how it looked on him and then now that I wear suspenders, naturally the pants will be a little bit higher. It has become a natural thing for me.

2. I think having an immaculately cut jacket can also do wonders for you. Even if you’re wearing a baggy shirt or something like that, if you’re wearing a jacket that fit you, that just accents the curves of the body, the shoulders, and everything. That can just make you look miles better than anyone else out there. It’s a good way to hide whatever you’ve got, if you’re too self-conscious about anything you got under your shirt, having a jacket that’s tailored for you, whether it’s custom or whether you buy something off the rack, get it cut just the way you want it, it makes a world of difference.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Yeah, looks like a million bucks but all it cost was 50 bucks at the alterations tailor.

Sven Raphael Schneider: So, what is your style hallmark?

Ethan Wong: I think that it does change every so often. When I first started, I’ll be the guy that’s always in double breasted then I became the guy that wears fedoras a lot. It kind of goes up and down with my style.

1930s ties were short & suspenders the standard

Oxford or Derby? OXFORDS.
Flannel or worsted? FLANNELS
Necktie or bow tie? NECKTIE
Tie clip or collar pin? COLLAR PIN
Belt or suspenders? SUSPENDERS
Barrel cuff or french cuff? BARREL CUFF

Sven Raphael Schneider: What would you say is your go-to suit and why do you think it is?

Ethan Wong: I think right now for modern clothes, it’s my navy blue suit just cos as separates you can wear anything with it, and together it makes you wear the most crazy pattern possible cos it’s such a classic combination. You can wear whatever you want with it.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Alright, what are your favorite clothing websites, sources of inspiration, tumblrs, what do you follow?

Ethan Wong: Well I think, Articles of style. I do enjoy reading Gentleman’s Gazette sometimes. I think one of my favorite one is when you talk about Pitti, that’s one of my favorite features that you do. Another one would be put this on, it’s very casual. Khaled Nasr on Instagram is pretty awesome. Besides male fashion advice on Reddit, I think there was a styleforum, I go on there just to kind of read reviews on more established brands. Usually, when I go somewhere else, it’s usually a one-time kind of thing.

Sven Raphael Schneider: What’s the single most inspiring piece of advice that you’ve ever been given?

What a sweater

Ethan Wong: Best advice I’ve ever gotten was “Wear whatever the hell you want as long as you feel good in it.”

Sven Raphael Schneider: Where do you see yourself in five or ten years down the line?

Ethan Wong: Well, hopefully I’ll be able to do something related to marketing where I can kind of craft that kind of thing.I’m very big in making things relevant for people, not just fashion, not just creating music but the whole idea of asking people and finding out what they want and to make it apply to them and I hope that my career will be in that sort of field. Even if it is in fashion or in music or something else.

Sven Raphael Schneider: If people want to check out your blog or your Instagram, how can they find you?

Ethan Wong: My WordPress blog is StreetXSprezza.wordpress.com, and my Instagram will be @theteenagegentleman .

Sven Raphael Schneider: Thank you, Ethan, for your time, it was wonderful to have you on. I hope our reader, listeners, and viewers could get a better understanding of what it’s like to be a stylish 20-year-old and thank you for your valuable insights, particularly like the fact about the long pants that give you this natural waist and longer legs especially if you’re naturally shorter. Great tip, thank you!

Pairing the right timepiece with a dinner jacket is one of the most difficult tasks a gentleman has if he chooses to wear a watch to a black tie affair.

For many men, this is because they have a limited selection of watches to choose from. For others, it’s the task of having to select a timepiece that’s appropriate, elegant and pairs harmoniously with a tuxedo. Far too often, we see men adopting the 007 stances of wearing a dive watch with their tuxedo or a timepiece that is far too casual for an evening out on the town.

A century ago one should never wear a wrist watch with a dinner jacket. The idea behind it was that your sole focus should be on the host and other guests, not on the time. Looking down at your watch was an indicator that you had another place to be.

I attend a black tie affair once a month, and it’s safe to say that the traditional rule of not wearing your watch is now antiquated.

Therefore, we’re going to discuss how to wear a watch with black tie the proper way.

James Bond wearing a dive watch with a tuxedo

What is Black Tie

Black tie is the second most formal dress code next to white tie and is worn exclusively for evening affairs that begin after 6 p.m.

For gentlemen, there are a few core elements that one adheres to when attending a black tie event:

• A black dinner jacket with silk facings on a shawl or peak lapel
• Matching trousers with a single braid covering the outer seams, uncuffed and worn with braces
• A black waistcoat or cummerbund
• A tuxedo shirt with French cuffs and a turndown or winged standing collar
• A black silk bow tie 
• A white linen pocket square
• A boutonniere is optional but provides an elegant look
• Black over the calf silk dress socks
• Black patent leather pumps or oxfords

Evening Watch Etiquette

If you do decide to wear a timepiece with your dinner jacket, we’ve put together a more modern list of rules to follow.

1. Ensure that your watch is formal. If you would wear it to the beach, don’t wear it in the evening.
2. If you don’t have the perfect evening watch, don’t wear one.
3. If you must check the time, do so inconspicuously by excusing yourself and going to the restroom, or a quiet area of the establishment such as an empty hallway or even outside.
4. Wear the watch on your left wrist so when you shake hands, it won’t be noticed as, your cuff rides up.
5. Whenever possible, wear a pocket watch instead of a wristwatch.
6. Make sure your watch has no audible alarms, tones or chimes. It should be silent and without any complications. Especially if you’re at a dinner, the theatre or an event where you’re part of an audience.
7. Check the time as infrequently as possible being certain never to glance at your watch mid conversation.

Some men often argue that in modern times, there is no need to wear a watch with a tuxedo as you can check your cell phone. However, I would argue that a quick glance at your wristwatch is far more appropriate than pulling out your cell phone. For more information on the subject see our cell phone etiquette guide,

How to Select the Perfect Evening Watch

A more modern evening watch from A Lange & Sohne

The Dial

An evening watch is very similar to a dress watch, and yet it’s slightly more formal. The standard rule of thumb is to match the face of the watch with the time of day. In other words, a white or cream dial is perfect for the office, whereas you may want to choose a black or midnight blue watch for the evening. Since black tie requires you to wear a tuxedo, we suggest to match the color of your watch with your jacket.

The dial of the watch should also meet the following requirements:

1. Roman numerals or markers instead of numbers are more elegant and formal.
2. The watch should match the hardware of your cufflinks and studs. In other words, if your cufflinks have a yellow gold border and backing, you can wear a yellow gold watch provided it’s understated. You can also match the metal of your timepiece to other metal on you such as any rings you wear, your eyeglasses, etc.
3. The dial should be simple, elegant and understated. This isn’t the time to wear chronographs, day-dates or world timers. However, you can get away with wearing a moon phase complication.
4. The size of the watch should always be small and fit your wrist well. Despite the trends, wearing an oversized watch is not a wise idea for black tie.
5. Try and avoid watches that glow in the dark. This can be especially distracting when attending the theater or other events where the lights over you are dimmed or completely out.
6. Ideally, it’s wise to wear a slim timepiece. The smaller and less obtrusive the watch, the more appropriate it is to wear.
7. Always perform a cuff test before going out. Make sure the watch isn’t so big that it doesn’t comfortably slide under the cuff of your shirt and jacket.

A contemporary yet appropriate watch for black tie from A Lange and Sohne

The Strap

For evening watches that are worn with black tie, a metal, rubber or nylon bracelet is inappropriate. When wearing a timepiece with a tuxedo, you should ensure it has a simple black leather strap that fits well. The strap shouldn’t be colorful, glossy or noticeable. The idea is that no one will notice you’re wearing a watch. While lizard and alligator straps can be very elegant, this isn’t the time to wear them. Stick with something such as a calfskin or move into an exotic if it’s understated.

The clasp should also be simple. Wearing one with an oversized buckle or a strap that has logos on the clasp can cause your watch to stand out and prevent it from fitting comfortably under the cuff of your shirt.

Simple and thin yet elegant

Pocket Watches

A pocket watch is ideally the style of timepiece one should wear when attending a formal affair. It is discreetly hidden in the pocket and save the fob and chain; it’s unnoticeable to others around you. Also, it’s far easier to find a tasteful pocket watch at a reasonable price then it is to find a watch that will match your attire.

When selecting a pocket watch, you want to ensure you follow the same rules as a wrist watch.

1. It should be elegant and understated. Open face watches are best as hunter watches require that separate step of opening the case.
2. Many pocket watches feature designs and art on them. Try and wear something simple that isn’t adorned or accented.
3. The fob and chain should be just as understated, and the color of the metal should match your other accessories and jewelry. Whenever possible, it’s wise to keep the watch off the chain, so it sits neatly in your pocket and only comes out when needed.
4. Vintage watches tend to be somewhat audible as the hands move. It’s a wise idea to ensure that the watch is as silent as possible so the ticking of the hands won’t disturb others around you.

An oversized watch will never slide neatly under the cuff

How to Wear an Evening Watch

Most people probably assume that you just put the timepiece on your wrist and go. Although it is that simple, there are a few standard rules that one should take into account if you choose to wear a wrist watch with black tie.

1. Wear it on your left wrist so that when you shake hands, it doesn’t become noticeable as your cuff rides up.
2. Make sure the strap fits well. There shouldn’t be an excess sticking out as that can prevent your watch from sitting snugly under the cuff. If your strap doesn’t fit well, consider investing in a new one.
3. Wear the watch with the dial on the top of your wrist, not the bottom. Many men – especially those in law enforcement and the military – will wear their watch with the dial on the bottom of the wrist. For black tie, it’s important to wear it the traditional way.
4. Make sure your watch is clean. Give it a quick buff with a dry and soft cloth before going out.
   Ensure the watch fits well and isn’t too large for your wrist. It should slide effortlessly under the cuff of your shirt.

Bvlgari watch too large for a formal event, and the necktie is inappropriate as well

It’s always best not to wear a watch if you’re not 100% certain it’s appropriate. For the most formal black tie affairs, we highly recommend attending without a watch on your wrist. However, we understand that many men prefer to have access to the time and we’d rather they check their watch then their phone.

Recommended Watches

Here are a few of the timepieces we recommend for formal attire.

Rolex Cellini Prince

Rolex Cellini Prince – Starting at around $9,000

The only Rolex worthy of evening wear, the Cellini is Rolex’s most elegant and simplistic timepiece. You can find them with black and chocolate brown dials that add depth and charm to an already perfect watch for evening wear. They have an art-deco feel to them, and one can almost imagine Jay Gatsby wearing one on his wrist. To learn more about Rolex, click here for our guide.

Patek Philippe Calatrava with Diamonds

Patek Philippe Calatrava – Starting at around $15,000

The quintessential dress watch from the pinnacle of Swiss watchmakers, the Calatrava is undeniably our favorite dress watch and wearing one with a dark dial makes it the perfect watch for black tie affairs. Click here to buy one.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is a perfect watch for black tie

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony – Starting at around $15,000

Similar in appearance to the Calatrava, the Patrimony line by the renowned Vacheron Constantin is a hallmark of elegance and superlative watchmaking. Simple, classic and elegant, it meets all the requirements for a black tie timepiece. Click here to get one today.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso in Black

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Starting at around $3,000

One of the nicest things about the Reverso is that the face of the watch flips giving you an alternate view. For those who are budget conscious, it’s an ideal watch to buy because you can have one dial that’s black and perfect for evening wear and another that’s white and works great at the office. The other option, which is why we selected this among our favorite black tie watches, is that you can find one with a backing that’s simple or features a clean design. This way when people do see your watch, they’ll take notice that it’s not showing the time. Click here to find a very simple Reverso in black. Learn more about the Reverso and Jaeger-LeCoultre, in our Guide here .

A Cartier Tank skeleton watch can add some sprezzatura to your tuxedo

Cartier Tank – Starting at around $2,000

One of the most iconic timepieces in the world, the Cartier Tank is an ideal pick for black tie attire as it’s simplistically elegant and sophisticated. Learn all about this watch in our Cartier Tank Watch Guide.

Frederique Constant Maxime Watch

Frederique Constant Maxime – Starting at around $2,500

Reasonably priced and often found on sale, the Frederique Constant Maxime is a great option for those with a tighter budget. Also, they offer one in grey that at first glance is very simple, but up close features some design work that’s rather bold and yet somehow still appropriate. Click here to buy one or explore our guide on low budget watches.

Conclusion

A century ago, wearing a watch to a formal affair was viewed as inappropriate. Today, it’s just fine. In the end, it’s up to you to decide. Our only tip is to ensure that if you do wear a watch with black tie, that it’s something simple and something that’s gracefully elegant. If you’re unsure, the best decision is to avoid wearing one altogether. And, while wearing a watch with black tie is something up for debate, wearing a watch with white tie is not something we recommend.

Do you wear a watch with your tuxedo or dinner jacket? If so, which one?

Scarves, have been a staple in mens clothing for more than two thousand years. Historically worn by some of our world’s most prolific leaders, the scarf, a profound piece of neckwear has graced our necks for as long or longer

than neckties, bow ties and cravats. In this scarf guide you will learn everything about the history, materials, and qualities, except how to tie a scarf, you can learn that here.

The History of the Scarf

The scarf certainly has a number of religious connotations, but has also enjoyed use for warmth, cleanliness and of course fashion. While many credit its history to use by the Terracotta soldiers in China, the scarf actually dates all the way back to ancient Rome where it was originally called a Sudarium, literally translated to mean “sweat cloth”. It was used in Rome for cleanliness and the cloth scarf was often worn tied to the waist of the man, or loosely wrapped around the neck on warmer days. In the event of a formal affair, the scarf was almost always worn and various grades of cloth could easily separate the affluent and wealthy members of society from the rest. The scarf was now seen on a daily basis as men would continually wear them out, both for cleanliness, but now, due to the separation of class, as a way to showcase their status or elitism in society.

By the third century BC, the appeal and popularity of the Roman introduced scarf had made its way to China and was now being worn by the Terracotta soldiers of the Qin Shi Huang dynasty as a form of military garb in used as a way to discern the soldiers rank, based on the style or fashion of the scarf.

By the end of the nineteenth century, scarves had gone from a regular accessory worn by men and women to one of the most essential forms of neckwear worn on a daily basis by men of all classes. Since then, scarves have been a globally popular fashion accessory for men and today still provide the warmth, religious and protective qualities of a bygone era.

Popularized by Hollywood celebrities in movies and premieres, the scarf was seen on a regular basis draped loosely around the neck of both stars and starlets. As a contributing factor causing increased popularity, brands have popped up internationally dedicating themselves to the manufacturing of scarves either exclusively or in addition to other fashion lines. We only have to look at some of the most well known brands in America such as Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren and J. Press to see that even the largest haberdashers have introduced lines of scarves. Intertwine that with online retailers and makers such as scarf.com and Fort Belvedere.

Today, men wear scarves in various climate conditions, as both an accessory and protective layer during the cold winter months, and strictly as a fashionable accessory in warmer climates. In fact, it’s not unusual to see men strolling Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills on a warm summer day, decked out in a linen or cotton scarf accompanying their scarf. In addition, it’s perfectly normal to see a man wearing a white or colored formal scarf draped over the nape of his neck at the opera or another black tie affair. For most men, a single scarf is no longer the norm. Many men own multiple scarves in various colors, patterns and made from many different fabrics.

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Reversible Scarf in Dark Green & Red Silk Wool Motif & Check – Fort Belvedere

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Ivory Spray Rose Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

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Reversible Scarf in Green & Blue Silk Wool Paisley & Stripes – Fort Belvedere

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Blue Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Silk Fort Belvedere

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Reversible Scarf in Royal Blue & Red Silk Wool Polka Paisley & Glen Check – Fort Belvedere

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Edelweiss Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Types of Scarves

There are many styles of scarves in a wide variety of shapes, patterns and colors, made from many different types of materials.

There are five primary categories that scarves fit into when we discuss mens attire. They are the following:

Casual / Winter Scarf

Often worn for protection from the elements, these scarves are made primarily of wool, cashmere, alpaca or polyester and are intended to be worn during the cold winter months. They can be printed or in various patterns and are often knitted and thick to the touch.

Sport Scarf

Often made of a thinner, yet cold resistant material, many companies such as UnderArmor, Reebok and Nike make these winter scarves for winter athletes. These scarves are often made of a blend of materials and provide fairly high resistance to wind, snow and temperature. Many of these scarves are circular and don’t need to be wrapped. This prevents the scarf from untangling and causing potential injury or death to athletes such as skaters, skiiers and snowboarders. They are usually quite snug and can be pulled up to cover the mouth and nose and sometimes even the ears. In addition to being worn by professional and amateur athletes, these scarves are very popular with parents and children due to their ease of use and limited tangling capabilities making them a safer alternative for active play.

Business Casual Scarf

These scarves are usually quite thin similar to the sport scarves but made in the same fashion as the casual scarf, in other words – long and rectangular.

Often featuring checks, paisley or other geometric prints, these scarves are more traditional and are intended to be paired with business or semi-casual attire. These scarves are made from a variety of materials and can be worn in the winter or summer months. For warmer climates, these scarves are often made of cotton, jersey, cashmere, satin, silk, linen or pashmina which is a cashmere wool from the Pashmina goat. For cooler climates, wool, cashmere, alpaca and poly-blend materials are particularly popular. Often materials will be woven together to create a blended scarf which can provide more a more delicate touch with greater resistance to the inclement weather. For example, in Canada, cashmere and wool blended scarves are particularly popular for men as they are soft and thin from the cashmere wool, yet contain the protection of the coarser wool.

The Dress Scarf

Not quite the formal scarf, or the daywear, the evening scarf is an elegant addition to any gentleman’s topcoat or overcoat. Made of cashmere, alpaca, or even merino wool, the evening scarf is the middle sibling in the elegant scarf trifecta. Reversible or not, it is a conservative, sometimes with checks, plaids or paisley prints.

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Magenta Pink Dahlia Silk Boutonniere Buttonhole Lapel Flower – Fort Belvedere

Formal Evening Scarf

Often worn with a tuxedo ortailcoat, the formal scarf is a fringed rectangular scarf usually made of silk satin and in most cases, made in black, white  or a combination thereof. They often feature hand-knotted fringes and unlike other scarves, are not wrapped, but draped over the back of the neck and sometimes thrown over the shoulder.

Fashion / Summer Scarf

Designed specifically for use as a fashionable accessory, these scarves are often made of linen, cotton, silk, seersucker or pashmina and are worn strictly as a fashion statement and not generally as a protective layer to resist wind, snow or cold. Often worn with both casual and business attire, they generally feature a wide range of prints or textures.

Elegant Reversible Scarf

The reversible scarf, also known by the British as a tubular scarf, is bar none, one of the most elegant forms of neckwear for warmth. With two distinct patterns, woven together in harmony, reversible scarves are an gracefully elegant way of accessorizing your topcoat. Fort Belvedere has a resplendent selection offered in silk and wool combinations that will truly make a fashion statement.

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Peccary Gloves in Chamois Yellow with Button & Lining Fort Belvedere

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Double Sided Scarf in Blue Silk Wool Paisley & Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Double Sided Scarf in Red Silk Wool Paisley & Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Double Sided Scarf in Green & Blue Silk Wool Paisley & Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Double Sided Scarf in Brown Silk Wool Paisley & Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Peccary Gloves in Gray with Button & Alpaca Lining Fort Belvedere

Scarf Materials

Scarves as a whole can be made of a wide variety of materials and fabrics. For mens scarves, the following materials are the ones most commonly used in construction of the retangular scarf:

Polyester

The least admirable material possibly of all time, while there are both natural and synthetic forms of polyester, in most cases, during the manufacturing of clothing, it’s the synthetic variant being predominantly used. Despite polyester being viewed as an inferior material to that of naturally woven fibers like cotton and wool, the polyester woven scarves or polyblend scarves do have some exceptional qualities often incapable of being achieved when using an all natural fibre. Polyester scarves benefit from superior resistance to inclement weather with a far greater success rate when it comes to repelling water, wind and snow. In addition, they offer exceptional wrinkle resistance, can be construed as more durable than many or most of the their counterparts and offer high color retention, resulting in the scarf lasting much longer under the extreme elements. It is for these reasons in particular that polyester and poly-blend scarves are incredibly popular with children and professional athletes. In some instances, since polyester is considered a less elegant material, it is often woven with natural fibers which provides the polyester based scarf with other visual and textural properties normally not found with synthetic polyester. Just as a 100% polyester bow tie is easy to spot in comparison to a silk bow tie, a scarf made exclusively of polyester is just as easy to differentiate from a silk or linen varietal. By blending the polyester with silk, cotton or other natural fibers, you can obtain what’s often called “China Silk” which is a term used to describe a polyester fibre woven with a natural fibre to resemble the beauty and durability of insect-made silk.

While I don’t personally enjoy polyester-made clothing, I do understand the appeal for some individuals – specifically those who are athletes or children. I would never buy my eleven year old son a cashmere or silk scarf to wear to school. Instead, he can wear polyester and reserve the more exceptionally crafted scarves for special occasions such as the theater, dinner parties and other events.

Jersey

Jersey is most often used in the production of feminine scarves as its conducive to embellishments, rather than just prints or textures. It holds sequins, beads and other externally sewn embellishments quite well as it’s a fairly thin and stretchy cotton. Despite being used predominantly for womens apparel, it has recently and historically been used by men, especially in warmer Middle East climates and can often be seen on some middle eastern members of the royal family.

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Cashmere Scarf in Solid Royal Blue – Fort Belvedere

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Pure Cashmere Scarf in Solid Red – Fort Belvedere

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Cashmere Scarf in Solid Havelock Blue – Fort Belvedere

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Cashmere Scarf in Solid Sunflower Orange – Fort Belvedere

Cashmere

An exquisitely soft and luxurious wool, cashmere is woven from from the yarn of fine underhair of the cashmere goat. Each goat produces only 150 – 200 grams a year, which is just enough for a single scarf. Unlike, many other materials it actually becomes softer over time and is widely considered the gold standard for many luxury articles of clothing from sweaters to scarves and socks. Despite being very lightweight, it still maintains adequate protection from the cold. It is one fabric often blended with other wools or even polyester, because of its price. However, always bear in mind that you can find huge difference in the quality of cashmere.

At Fort Belvedere, we source only high quality cashmere yarns. The best quality cashmere is usually between 14 and 16.5 microns thick, which is one of the reasons for its softness. With a  staple lengh of 35 – 50mm, we ensure that the scarf won’t pill easily, so you can wear it for years to come. Cashmere from Iran (17.5 – 19 micron) and Afghanistan (16.5-18 micron) is less desireable because it is rougher and pills more easily. Also, bear in mind that most inexpensive cashmere scarves are woven from the the short 2nd or 3rd quality cashmere yarn, that was spun from very short cashmere hair. Moreover, natural white and lighter colored cashmere is much more expensive than darker greyish or brown cashmere, because only the lighter colored underhair can be dyed into our vivid colors. The darker fibers can only be used for dark colors.

While top quality cashmere typically features less than 0.5% of  guard hair, cheaper quality scarves often contain more than 5% of guard hair, which is rougher and less desirable. In the next step, Fort Belvederecashmere fibers are then treated with natural thistles, which roughen up the surface of the scarf to create a particularly soft feel. Using real thistles is costly, but this traditional method guarantees top quality. When we examined Scottish cashmere scarves, which are often advertised as premium quality, we learned that thistles are not used anymore which reveals a decline in quality. After a Fort Belvedere scarves are woven, they undergo the milling process, which provides the cashmere with fullness and softness. Another part of this process is done the traditional way, employing wooden rollers. Of course, every scarf undergoes extensive Quality Control by skilled weavers, in order to assure you receive the highest quality Fort Belvedere cashmere scarf.

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Alpaca Scarf Double Sided in Blue & Grey – Fort Belvedere

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Alpaca Scarf with Grey & Red Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Alpaca Scarf with Grey & White Plaid Fort Belvedere

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Alpaca Scarf with Orange, Red & Yellow Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Alpaca Scarf with Light Brown Plaid – Fort Belvedere

Alpaca

Often confused both with a camel and a llama, the Alpaca is a domesticated camelid from South America. The wool of the alpaca is similar to the sheep but far more luxurious and significantly warmer, because the fibers are hollow and have an air chamber. It has a silky shine to it and is one of my favorite natural fibers. The best alpaca qualities in the world come from Peru and are designated as baby & royal baby Alpaca indicating a thicknesses between 19 – 22 micron. Obviously this is thicker than the best cashmere qualities, but due to the softer surface of Alpaca fibers it feels almost as soft as the best cashmere qualities. Therefore Alpaca scarves are the perfect companion if you want a warm but soft scarf.

Alpaca comes in 24 natural colors, with white being the most popular because it can be dyed in the most shades. Generally, the natural white fibers are of slightly superior quality, which is why Fort Belvedere only uses white fibers. Alpaca does not have lanolin usually found in wool or cashmere, which makes it the perfect material for people otherwise allergic to wool or animal hair.

Silk

A natural fiber, it’s harvested from the larvae cocoons of the mulberry silkworm. One of the most elegantly viewed fibers in the world, silk is the basis for the vast majority of high quality accessories and all forms of neckwear. When buying a bow tie, neck tie or cravat, you certainly want to seek out 100% silk made ties unless of course you’re specifically looking for something like a cotton or linen tie for a summer ensemble. Silk is often imitated but never duplicated. It can be shiny or matte but is always exquisite and delicately refined. When it comes to scarves, silk can be found as the basis for many formal scarves that are paired gracefully with a dinner jacket or tails. Here you can see how silk screen printing is done – every color needs an individual screen, so the more colors a design has, the more complicated and labor intensive it is.

Cotton

Not often found in scarves intended for practical purpose, cotton is a cool and light fabric that is perfect for warmer climates due to its breathability. Often found in the cooler, yet warm climates of Southern California, cotton scarves are incredibly popular with the hipster demographic, but also the dandies of today and businessmen looking to impart some personal flair into an otherwise monotonous wardrobe.

Linen

Derived from the flax plant, linen is without question, equivocation or mental reservation, the lightest and coolest fabric for fashionable scarves. We know linen from the suits, pants and shirts we wear in the summer and the Irish linen handkerchiefs we carry in our pockets. For fashion scarves in the summer months or warm climates, it’s tough to beat linen. In addition, linen can actually help to keep you cooler under the hot sun and provide some protection for your skin.

Pashmina

Originally, produced using the delicate under hair of goats from the Kashmir region in India, pashmina used to be a very thin, delicately woven and luxurious fabric. Typically worn by women, pashmina has made a recent transfer into mens fashion and is no longer exclusive to the square feminine scarves, despite that being its predominant use. Today, many scarves are advertised as pashmina but the huge problem is that it is not a protected term and as such anything can be sold to you as pashmina. At best, you will end up withinferior cashmere or wool that is blended with silk and at worst, you get something made out of viscose-polyester blend. In any major city of the world you will find the street vendors offering you pashmina scarves for $5. In fact, my mother in law once brought back a pashmina scarf from Italy, and when my wife an I went to Germany later, we saw the exact same scarf from another vendor. Basically these items are produced in one big batch from inferior materials and then sold across the globe. As such we can only recommend to stay away from anything advertised as pashmina because in 99.9% of the cases it is not the real thing. If you can get a little sample, you can do a burn test.

Fleece

When it comes to scarves, fleece is often called “Polar Fleece” and is widely known for its warming capabilities and resistance to natural elements including water, wind and cold. Typically, polar fleece is made of synthetic materials, however actual fleece is woven from the shaved coat of the sheep or long-haired goat before it’s been made into a yarn or thread. Today, a scarf designated as fleece is made of an artificial fibre 99.999% of the time. However we suggest to always go with natural hair, such as alpaca, silk or cashmere.

Wool

From the fleece of the sheep and a range of other animals, wool comes in a variety of textures and styles depending on how its woven, but is traditionally very warm and durable. Often used for winter scarves, the wool is an excellent source of warmth and protection against a wide variety of elements. Today, wool is one of the most common materials found in scarves the world over.

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Reversible Scarf in Burnt Orange, Red & Blue Silk Wool Pattern & Checks – Fort Belvedere

How to Spot a Quality Scarf

1. Look at the Material composition tag. That will weed out all the artificial fibers. If it says wool or cashmere etc. touch it and see if you like it. Better cashmere qualities are softer than inferior ones, however, sometimes inferior qualities are rather soft as well, but they will cause pilling after a few times of wear. Unfortunately there is no way for you to figure that out before you buy.

2. Size matters: Most men’s scarves are sized 150 cm x 30 cm/60″ x 12″. The problem is, that this is simply too short to tie scarves properly. as such, the ideal dimensions for a cashmere, wool or Alpaca scarf  are 180 cm x 30 cm/72″ x 12″. A thinner silk scarf can be 2-3  inches wider or longer but that’s about it, otherwise it is too bulky around your neck

3. Fringes: It’s a matter of preference if you want fringes on your scarf are not. Both is perfectly fine and while cashmere, wool and alpaca scarves traditionally come with fringes, silk scarves don’t, which is why they have to be added in a separate step.

4. Burn Test. Unfortunately, many scarves are mislabelled, and sometimes they contain artificial fibers although the tag claims, 100% silk, pashmina, silk, wool etc. The only way to really know the material composition is to have it tested in a lab which is time intensive and costly. If you have a little sample or a fringe, you can always do the burn test. Natural materials burn differently and smell differently. Some scarves may be blended, but you will always know if you have some artificial fibers in your scarf if it looks like it is melting and if it smells like burned plastic.

How To Tie A Scarf

Learn how to tie a scarf in this video by Sven Raphael Schneider – the founder of the Gentleman’s Gazette & Fort Belvedere.

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Reversible Scarf in Burgundy Red & Blue Silk Wool Motifs & Paisley – Fort Belvedere

Scarf Maintenance

Once you are done wearing your scarf, fold it and let it lay flat or hang, but don’t just stuff it on your coat pocket. We find folding is the easiest, most convenient way. When you are out and about, hang the scarf over the coat hanger and don’t just stuff it in your sleeve because that’s how most scarves get lost. If your scarf gets wrinkles, you can steam iron it gently at low heat. If you want to ensure not to ruin the surface, use a thin cotton cloth in between the iron and the scarf. Sometime simple steam from a steamer or an iron will do the trick.

Don’t wash your scarves in the laundry, even though some newer machines have gentle cycles and cashmere programs. Either bring them to the dry-cleaner or handwash the scarf using supersaturated liquid soap. Gently press the water from washed cashmere (do not wring it) and a

Conclusion

Scarves have long been an integral and important part of neckwear for both men and women. Today, just as in past years, the scarf is an exceptionally popular way for men to add personal flair to their wardrobe. While women are blessed with a multitude of accessories, we as men tend to have a more traditional wardrobe that prevents our personality from shining through. Scarves, in addition to providing warmth, are an exceptional way to enhance a wardrobe and add that personality to your attire.

This article was written by Sven Raphael Schneider and J.A. Shapira.

Personal style cannot be reduced to one formula and everyone has a different sartorial journey. In my experience, it is always inspiring to learn from other men how they developed their style because it makes you rethink your own approach and sometimes you pick up a thing or two that will help to create your unique look.

Today, I interview Guillaume Bo from France, who loves Hip Hop and classic clothing! The feedback for the video has been great so far, so make sure you don’t miss it.

Israel Saint-Clementine says”Best guest you’ve had so farBest guest you’ve had so far”

hieuwey thinks:”This interview speaks so much about the diversity of gentlemen behavior under different cultures. Amazing guest”

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Gui, when I first got in touch with you, it was because you had a Facebook page called Montreal needs more style and I was going to Montreal and so I contacted you and you set me up with people. Unfortunately, that time you weren’t in Montreal anymore. You had just moved to France. Before that, you’ve lived in New York, in San Francisco. So tell me more about how this journey evolved and where you’re at right now.

Guillaume Bo: I was born in Montreal, this is why I decided after New York and San Francisco to live there and at the time, I decided to create, to launch something free. So I created a Facebook page about style, elegance: Montreal needs more style was created. After that, I moved to France and finally became Men need more style.

Gui Bo from Men Need More Style at Pitti Uomo

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Okay, that makes sense. So what I read about you, you said when you started out initially, you were into soccer and you made your first money playing soccer and then afterward you actually transitioned into music and now into men’s wear. Now, it’s not common, can you just walk us through, how you went and started out at the beginning? How you came from on thing to another, I think it’s very interesting for people to understand where you come from and what your roots are.

Guillaume Bo: When I was like 15 or 16, I was very good at tennis too and football. Step by step, It’s funny too because I was into hip-hop, I was a DJ, producer.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Wait a second, how do you get from soccer to hip-hop?

Guillaume Bo: I quit soccer because I didn’t like all this pressure and everything around it then I seemed to like, when I was 12 or 13 and step by step, first is break dancing and after that, hip-hop, I mean rap but I was like “Oh my God!” and step by step, Radio shows and after that DJ and producing. All of that in 20 years actually.

Elegant outfit for hot days

Sven Raphael Schneider:  How many years did you emerge in the hip-hop scene culture and how did you then get from hip-hop to what you do today, men’s wear?

Guillaume Bo: Hip-hop, still (laughs) but less than I used to be but I would say like 20 years. It’s another part of my life. In France, at first I didn’t want to talk that much about it because you guys in the states are more aware and open about it. In France, it’s more like “oh, okay really? Hip-hop?”

Sven Raphael Schneider:  It’s interesting! Did you dress the way you dress today back then when you were into hip-hop?

Guillaume Bo: Sometimes, Yes. I used to wear corduroys for example and my friends used to tell me “you shouldn’t” and I told them that I don’t give a, this is my style, period. Sometimes, I used to spin with suits too!

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Wonderful! It means that you can be a gentleman, you can be interested in sartorial things, and you can still enjoy hip-hop at the same time. It is not exclusive.

Guillaume Bo: Absolutely! It’s even more than that; I do believe hip-hop helped me to be what I am right now.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Can you elaborate on that?

Checks and strong colors

Guillaume Bo: For me, it’s not only about suits at all. It’s more about culture, education, the way you talk, the way you talk to women, the way you understood history. It is linked to a lot of things. The more you understand cultures, for example, hip-hop culture, a culture linked to everything around it so you can mix classical, pop, rock and it’s the same thing for elegance. If you do know that I mean, deeply the term culture for example. The Mod Culture in Great Britain back in the 60’s, you do understand better now, Tom Ford.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Yes, people understand it, they take it in and they see as child, you know you’re exposed to certain things, you’re impressed maybe by it, you idolize things and then it even later in life, even if things have changed, you still have that connection to your roots, and it shows.

Guillaume Bo: It’s the same thing for Hip-hop, soul music, Michael Jackson, I was such a big fan of him and his hats, the way he moved and thanks to him I discovered Fred Astaire and Cary Grant and Sammy Davis Jr. and Rat pack and James Brown and finally, “Wow, his pants are awesome!”, I meant to understand why his shoulders were like mine now, cos I want to be able to play tennis with my suits, you know. Everything is linked to that so thanks to hip-hop, thanks to the people I met. Now I am capable of wearing casual in a different way.

Checks and stripes

Sven Raphael Schneider:  So, the starting point for you was hip-hop and then Michael Jackson and without it you may have never or maybe much later discovered that part. So sometimes you know, every person is unique in what they do, influences, the way they look and what they are interested in. So, you’ve done all of this, you’ve done the soccer and the hip-hop but today, your bread and butter job is definitely men’s wear, tell us more about what you do.

Guillaume Bo: I’m at the same time a blogger, consultant, a fashion icon, a model.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Would you say that it’s fair to say like the consultant, you said you work with brands so it’s important that you don’t just work for one brand, you work for many of them and you help kind of purvey their brand image in a way that is connected to aesthetics and say, it’s not just about having more Facebook fans or new collections but it’s about the whole vision of the brand and what it stands for, is that more what you would say you do?

Guillaume Bo: It’s between marketing, true business and image actually. I do work with brands I used to wear too, this is how I started working with brands actually. Sometimes, it’s more about merchandising, in all the world we have a lot of makers and they don’t know how to sell actually.

Patch Pockets in Grey

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Just to distinguish themselves and help them to create a brand aesthetic that is in line with their history and their core traditions and what it is about them. Sometimes, they’ve been doing something for so long that they don’t realize what they do is really special in the marketplace today and you kind of help them rediscover that and say “Hey, this is a unique selling point to have here” and try to push that forward, correct?

Guillaume Bo: Perfect, yes indeed sir! I would add something else, this is why I work only with brands that I like, I must be moved by that. If an american brand for example two days ago called me and no it wasn’t possible at all because it was crap and I cannot suggest that to my fans or followers or likers by saying to them “You must buy this for 300 bucks and trust me, it’s good” cos it’s not true.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  If it’s not true, you don’t want to do that.

Guillaume Bo: No I cannot make it!

Interesting textures

Sven Raphael Schneider:  You said you are a blogger and this Facebook page, Montreal needs more style has now become Men need more style because you could keep the abbreviation which was very clever. What is your Instagram handle? Is it also Men need more style?

Guillaume Bo: It was Men need more style but finally I decided to change the name it’s @Gui_Bo. Basically, men need more style is more about my vision, I do help people to, I give people advises, good spots, ideas and I do share things that I like too. For example, about you, about Fabio because I am not selfish at all. When I like something, I do talk about it. It has nothing to do with money. MNMS is about good advises, ideas, my point of view about this brand, about these shoes, about whatever, even art sometimes and about Pitti because I am not afraid to talk because you know, lately it’s been different. All these bloggers, they don’t talk at all. They do sell products but that’s it, they cannot tell anything else about product because they want to work with them later. I don’t care at all.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  So you take a different approach, you want to work with brands if you like them. You are just more true to yourself like you said before and just share what you like, and it comes from the heart.

Guillaume Bo: I don’t know, I want to be free, that’t it! Totally free and it’s kind of weird maybe for you but I want to be free period. MNMS is about all of that, my Instagram is more about my own outfits, combinations and I used to post two or three pics a day about me. Real life, no effects, no filter because if you want to be able to talk about elegance, shoes, fragrances, you must be able to show that. We met and I’m sure you know what I’m talking about, so many “bloggers”, so many “gentlemen” who talk so much but where are they? You don’t see anything about them, you know.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  It’s easy on the internet, to build up a profile and a persona and then when you meet people in real life, sometimes, it’s a little disappointing because you know, you read what they have to say, you think “this must be a very elegant person” and then you meet them and you’re like “maybe not quite”

Guillaume Bo: Especially with all this internet, I realized and I talked about it last week too. The ones who used to comment and to say bad things about all this were the worst dressed ever, like ever. So shut up, learn first, work and after that, you will be able to talk. I hate that. If I don’t like something, why should I talk about it?

Sven Raphael Schneider:  So you focus on the positive things, and you leave out negativity. I am very much the same; it’s all about doing something better rather than just bashing out others. It’s more about what can I do to improve things rather than saying what you do is bad.

Boater Hat and Vest

Guillaume Bo: I do love debates. Actually, I say it all the time on my Facebook page and I’m not the only one to have the right to be right, if you don’t agree with something, just prove me why I’m wrong. I love that.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Have a point, show me why. Don’t just say “Oh, I feel…” but explain

Guillaume Bo: Too easy. I used to be a football player, tennis player, to get involved in sports, I am a competitor. I’m wrong, prove it! If you do, WOW! I am a gentleman, I am fair play, good job! If you don’t, do not, please.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  It sounds like to me that, basically now your work life and your personal life are intertwined in a way that you, you know you love what you do, you do it all the time. Your outfits, you wear it regularly, you post them everyday. Where do you draw the line between work and private life? What do you do when you don’t work?

Guillaume Bo: I still play tennis and football. I still scratch sometimes but most of the time, I am traveling, I am trying new things. I think about what I should do, what I should wear, what I could mix with that, how I could upgrade this line of shoes. Everything is linked o you wear it totally right.

Blue and white

Sven Raphael Schneider:  I think you mentioned before, you talked about elegance as a whole. Just to pinpoint again, how would you define style?

Guillaume Bo: It’s about the way you move with your clothes and how your clothes express what you are. It’s true that, I do believe that classic style a good fit because it flatters 90% of people. This is why I’ve always said to my friends and everybody else that you should try classic because it will flatter you.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Yeah, you are the perfect proof. You are hip-hop, heavily influenced and you said you know, this still looks great on me, and it just flatters me, and so I wear it.

Guillaume Bo: It’s easier to dress this way because classic style has been tried and when you wear a nice suit, a nice blazer, you look your best. You wear baggies and Jordan and caps and all, it can be great on one percent of people and it’s also for women. Some women with sneakers, it can be great, only some, 2 or 3%. You know what I mean.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Yeah, on others it just does not look right. It depends on the built. If you have like a very big thigh, maybe a skinny pair of pants is not ideal. If you have very thin legs, maybe the skinny look will be flattering.

Panama Hat and suspenders

Guillaume Bo: But if you do wear a nice blazer, a nice dress, it works! That’s it!

Sven Raphael Schneider:  The style usually most people, they don’t find their style until they are in their 20s, 30s and sometimes later. What was your evolution and your style?

Guillaume Bo: I would say that when I was 20 of course, I especially dedicate it to hip-hop. I wasn’t break dancing with suits. But it does not mean that I didn’t wear suits when I was spinning or even touring with my group back in the days. I would say I used to wear more casual outfits but I was talking about it with friends a few months ago and actually they used to call me “Papi” because I was like the oldest with this style, with my corduroys, with my blazer and they were teasing me about it. I did not care because I loved it. At the same time, I used to wear too, Phat farm, polos, cargos, pants and sometimes timberlands. I haven’t changed much actually, maybe now my shoes are nicer because I have more money and maybe my taste is better too and I was able to buy nicest things that last, you know.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  You mentioned like, from Michael Jackson to Fred Astaire and Cary Grant, these are maybe like style icons. Who or what would you say most influences your style today? Is it still these old figures or is it different things and different people?

Gui Bo at Pitti Uomo

Guillaume Bo: Still them, of course. Fabio is a good friend, a great man, a real gentleman. Fabio Attanasio from the Bespoke Dudes. Another one, Gennaro Annunziata, a tailor from Naples.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  What is your staple suit or your staple shoes? Do you have that or you always wear something different? Do yo have some items that you wear more often than others?

Guillaume Bo: I don’t have so many suits actually, I do play more with sport jackets, casual and knit wear.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Oxford or Derby?

Guillaume Bo: Oxford

Sven Raphael Schneider: Flannel or worsted?

Guillaume Bo: Oh my! Flannel

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Necktie or Bow tie?

Guillaume Bo: Both!

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Belt or suspenders?

Guillaume Bo: Suspenders.

Gui Bo with suspenders

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Barrel cuff or french cuff?

Guillaume Bo: Both! I’m sorry it depends on a lot of things. Casual or formal.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Undershirt or no undershirt?

Guillaume Bo: Usually no but sometimes yes.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Are you more off the rack person or a more bespoke person?

Guillaume Bo: Off the rack I would say.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  What would be like on tip or piece of advice that has been given to you that you would like to pass on to our listeners and viewers today?

Guillaume Bo: You can buy accessories for nothing, pocket square, you can find a nice piece of fabric even a tissue, and you cut it and you create a nice pocket square. You can find a nice flower everywhere. You can find a nice scarf everywhere.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Final question, where do you see Men need more style and Gui Bo in five years from now?

Guillaume Bo: I want to change the game, I have to become bigger and bigger to change what I didn’t like first.

Sven Raphael Schneider:  Thank you so much, Gui Bo for your time. If you want to go to his Facebook page, you can visit it here and Instagram here. Go check him out, he’s very stylish, has a unique style and as you can see he’s very true to himself, speaks his mind, and that’s what I appreciate about him.

It’s once again time for Pitti Uomo pictures! This time around, the GG team including Sven Raphael Schneider took all the pictures which means we were able to curate a good selection focusing on specific outfits and details. 

Florence, Italy

This is where Pitti Uomo takes place – at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence.

Fortezza da Basso – Fairgrounds of Pitti Uomo

As always, rather than just providing the pictures we highlight a few Do’s & Don’ts, so they are more useful to you.

Black Hat, Grey Suit, Black Overcoat and navy tie

In this outfit, we see a black hat, grey glen check suit, black overcoat and navy tie. The black hat, black sunglasses, and tie bar are all fine with the outfit as a whole, but the one thing that stands out negatively is the navy tie.

On its own, a navy tie is a very versatile accessory but when you wear black it simply looks bad because it is close in color yet different. So when you wear black, avoid combining it with navy.

Brown hat with dark blue overcoat, windowpane sport coat, cream paisley tie

In this example, we have a similar combination with slightly more contrast. The hat is brown, but it works well with the tie and camel brown always pairs well with navy. The grey windowpane suit is not the best choice in my opinion, but it works. Maybe a charcoal brown suit would have been a better choice, but it is still a better outfit than before because the colors work together.

Classic Double-Breasted Herringbone Overcoat with dark scarf

This seasoned gentleman with grey hair keeps it simple going with a double breasted 6×2 herringbone overcoat in salt and pepper and pairs it with a dark scarf and sunglasses. Of course it is simple but sometimes it is more flattering to go with something simple that works for you rather than something elaborate that doesn’t.

Covert coat with purple chalk stripe suit with a brown hat

Overall, the older gentlemen at Pitti seem to wear generally less flamboyant outfits which often makes them better dressed than their younger counterparts. Of course, as a young chap you experiment and everyone learns along their sartorial journey. However, if the seasoned guys like this gentleman with a covert coat, purple chalk-striped suit and hat dress well, it pays to analyse their outfits to improve one’s own.

Denim Shirt with Brown vest, similar sport coat and light brown overcoat and light brown grenadine tie

The colors in this outfit are a bit more daring and unusual, and they work rather well together. However, there are some ways to improve this outfit:

1. The tie is too long; it should never show underneath your vest
2. On a single breasted waistcoat, it looks better to leave the bottom button undone
3. When you choose a vest, make sure it matches your jacket exactly, or it is in stark contrast. This chap is wearing a vest that is very similar in color, but the weave is different, and the sportcoat has an overcheck, and that just looks strange.
4. If you decide to wear a button-down collar with a tie, make sure it is a bit taller, so the tie knot can breathe. Otherwise, it looks too stacked.

Valentino Ricci in dark green overcoat without a scarf

Double Breasted Overcoat without scarf and popped collar – a very common trend at Pitti

Double breasted overcoats were very popular this season, and personally, I love them. However, Pitti is in Italy, and it’s not cold. So most of the gents sweat under their multi-layered outfits and hence many forego the scarf and flap up their collars instead.

While this is a practical way to keep you warm when you have no other choice, it looks particularly strange with peaked lapels. A scarf tied in the right way is simply much more elegant.

When it is too warm for a scarf, chances are you can leave the overcoat at home and go with a lighter topcoat or trench coat.

Flamboyant outfit with bold colors, patterns, patchwork scarf and cane

Pitti is known for the Pitti Peacocks – a term that I coined years ago and that seems to have caught on.

A lot of people try to catch the photographers’ eyes and what could be better to wear bold colors and patterns that you won’t find anywhere else? Or so they think…

At the end of the day, it’s a look that you should avoid until you intentionally want to gather this kind of attention. In the real world, I can think of no situation where you would wish to dress in that way but of course, as always: each to his own.

Gui Bo from Men Need More Style

Just recently, we interviewed Gui Bo. Learn all about his style here.

Light Blue Wool Sprot coat with contrast buttons in 6×2 DB style with hat, brown herringbone scarf and blue twill shirt with peccary gloves

This is certainly a daring outfit. Traditionally, tweed is made into single breasted coats, but since it’s Pitti, it had to be double breasted ;).

The color is stunning, and the contrasting buttons work, and so does the scarf and the brown pecarry gloves in the pocket and the brown glasses.

However, the hat is too dark and clashes too much. Navy or brown would have been preferable. Also, even though the shirt has different twill structure, the color is too close, especially from a few feet away. Hence, a lighter shade of blue or a pale yellow would have been a better choice.

Light brown overcoat with patch pockets with cloth covered buttons, Winchester shirt with barrel cuffs and blue rope striped suit

At Pitti, people always try to wear unusual sunglasses to standout from the crowd and so does this gentleman with his octagonal sunglasses. They are certainly a statement piece, and so is his overcoat.

It features patch pockets that are a casual detail as well as cloth covered buttons, which is traditionally something you find on more formal garments. A pair of brown horn or corozo buttons or even plastic would have looked better than these.

This is a perfect example why it pays to understand the fundamentals of classic men’s style.

Muted Colors in grey and brown with red hair

Overall a good outfit with muted colors. Maybe the overcoat and suit could have been a little more contrasting, but the red hair and tan shoes are the accents in this ensemble.

So if you have features that make you noticeable, take that into consideration when you dress and tone it down a bit, and you’ll look better.

Navy textured three piece suit with pink turtleneck, tie and paisley overcoat and brown hat

The three piece suit with DB vest is a great outfit with a subtle detail that separates you from the crowd.  However in this case, some other accents were added, which destroy the classic look.

1. The bold overcoat is certainly out there, and unless you are an artist, chances are it won’t work for you.
2. Keep the layers in mind. Three piece suits are warmer than two piece suits, and when you add an overcoat, it gets even hotter. Adding a sweater, and even worse, a turtleneck sweater is an overkill
3. When you wear a turtleneck sweater, wear just that and skip any neckwear, such as the tie in this example because is just looks bad.

Partner Look with gray striped suits with navy cardigans, blue shirts, dotted socks, etc

These two gents opted for a partner look with little deviations. On the one hand, they matched the suits, overcoats, socks, cardigan, and shirt colors but they chose different shoes, ties hats and sunglasses that makes it look very different unless you take a closer look.

I can’t think of any real situation where this kind of partner look might be a good idea – maybe you come up with one. Let me know if you do.

Pattern Overload & Lots of Accessories

This gentleman has lots of patterns and textures going. On top of that, the outfit contains many colors. The scarf itself is very nice but when it shows underneath your buttoning point, it accentuates your crotch, and that’s not and advantageous look in my opinion, and a scarf looks better tied. What do you think?

Shawl Collar burgundy overcoat with bold checked with grey striped trousers and Ralph Lauren slippers

Shawl collars are not widely available and hence it is a good way for people to show that they got a custom garment.

Personally, I think the overcoat is made from a fantastic Donegal tweed cloth in burgundy, and the shawl collars work, although an Ulster collar would have been even better.

The grey trousers and tie all harmonize together, and even the dark Albert slippers work regarding color. But generally, they are better around the house than on the street.

Skinny look dark blue herringbone 6×2, light blue shirt with navy tie, brown and beige houndstooth sport coat with light grey skinny pants, dark green wool socks and brown full brogue socks

If you are thin and young, you can wear skinny clothes, just like this young man in the picture on the left. The fit is trim, the color combinations ok. Maybe different socks and black shoes would have been a better choice.

Also, if your overcoat has a chest pocket, add a pocket square and if you don’t want that, get a coat without a pocket. In any case, be deliberate.

Also, overcoats should be worn with a scarf, and not without. If it is not very cold, get a lighter scarf, but it will always make you look a lot smarter.

Tan Overcoats were very popular at Pitti Uomo 89

If you are unsure what overcoat color to get, camel is always a good start because it pairs well with many colors.

Tomasz Miler from Poland with blue blazer, fur collar, tattersall checked shirt and printed tie

Fur collars can look very handsome, and they keep you warm but it is not for everyone, and it will put the spotlight on you. So think twice if that’s what you want to achieve. In this outfit, you can see haberdasher Tomasz Miler from Poland, and it works quite well for him.

Turtleneck, Dark Colors, and Textures

Turtleneck sweaters have been very popular at Pitti this year, and if you like the look, go for it. Personally, I am not a huge fan of them but each to his own.

Yours Truly in Firenze wearing a vintage brown flannel glen check suit

Since I was taking pictures all day, it was important for me to have great flexibility in the armholes. Moreover, an overcoat would have limited my range of movement and hence I needed a warm cloth.  Therefore, I chose to wear a vintage A. Caraceni glen check suit in brown flannel. It had very small armholes so I could hold my camera all day. The flannel fabric kept me warm especially since the coat was double breasted and so I did not feel cold.

The collar pin elevated my wool tie knot in a nice manner, and the yellow boutonniere provided a little pop.

What do you think about these outfits? Do you know the names of any of the gentlemen we posted? Please share your thoughts in the comments, thanks!

Gloves have been around for centuries and are typically worn as an accessory on the hand. I’m sure I don’t need to explain how they work, and if you’re not familiar with their use, perhaps a quick Google search will serve you well.

What is pertinent to mention is that despite what many believe, there are variations of the typical gloves with separate sheaths for each finger and the thumb. One style that differs is the mitten, which is predominantly used for cold weather protection and encapsulates all of the fingers with only the thumb reserving its individual sheath. Another variant is the fingerless glove, which is exactly what it sounds like. Finally, there are gauntlets, which feature one large opening for all the fingers including the thumb. In this particular guide, we’re going to focus on the traditional glove that has five separate sheaths, one for each finger and, of course, the thumb.

Gloves are primarily used to protect the hand and its digits. Whether it be from cold weather exposure, debris, damage from abrasion, friction, disease, and chemicals or a baseball traveling close to 100mph, gloves are used in a variety of ways, including simply being fashionable accessories, which they have been for some centuries.

There are sporting gloves, work gloves, and fashionable gloves, not to mention various other kinds. Doctors use disposable gloves to protect themselves and their patients from disease. Firefighters use protective gloves to prevent burns and police officers use special kevlar lined gloves to prevent being poked by needles or for protection in hand to hand combat with assailants. Just as police need them for protection, so do athletes such as professional and amateur boxers, wrestlers, baseball players and those playing a wide variety of other sports.

Made from one of the widest array of materials, they can be constructed using leathers, rubbers, latex, cloth, wool and even metal. Even astronauts traveling to space use custom gloves to shield their hands from the elements and protect them from the elements of space.

The History of Gloves

Gloves have been around since the antiquity. Even Homer’s The Odyssey mentioned the use of gloves when Laertes wore them to avoid the brambles in his garden. In the History of Herodotus from 440BC, the story tells us how Leotychides was incriminated by a gauntlet full of silver pieces that he ad received as a bribe. The list goes on, and the use of gloves is widely documented, dating back to the dawn of mankind.

One of the most important historical uses of a glove was in chain-mail armor worn by soldiers and knights during the medieval ages. The gauntlets were a significant piece in any combat arsenal and were used to assist in defensive maneuvers against sharp and blunt instruments such as swords. However, with the decline of archaic weaponry and the advent of firearms, the chances a soldier would have to fight sword-to-sword were becoming increasingly rare as time progressed, therefore leaving the metal gauntlets as showpieces on statues of knights as well as on the knights themselves.

Members of royalty began to embroider the gloves with jewels and their crests. It is said that King Henry II was buried in 1189 wearing his coronation robe, a crown and his gloves on his hands. King John and King Edward I were also buried in a similar fashion.

Drawing off the support of kings and other nobles, the pope, bishops and cardinals began to wear gloves called Pontifical gloves during celebration of mass. Liturgical ornaments continued to be worn and protected the hands of their wearers for what was believed to be cleanliness well into the first half of the eleventh century.

By the mid-thirteenth century, gloves became a fashion statement for women and therefore became highly ornamental. Made of silk or fine linen, they were forearm length, sometimes reaching and mildly covering the elbow. Initially believed to impart some modesty by covering her up, men took notice and felt they were being used for vain purposes and laws were enacted in the hopes of ceasing this so-called vain behavior.

In the Middle Ages, the term of “throwing down the gauntlet” first appeared meaning that a Knight was prepared to fight and defend his or his lady’s honor. Interestingly, this saying is still used today.

Then, in the sixteenth century, the gloves reached the pinnacle of popularity when Queen Elizabeth I began wearing ornate and embroidered gloves in front of guests and then proceeding to remove them to showcase her feminine hands.

One other reason and method for wearing such gloves was that they could easily be aromatized using perfume, which assisted in enhancing the smell of those who didn’t bathe on a regular basis. This was the norm in the sixteenth century as daily showering or bathing only became popular in recent times.

Then, in the early seventeenth century, a glove by the name of the Limerick took its place as the must-have fashion accessory of the year. Made from the skin of unborn calves, the comfortable – and rather delightful to wear – Limericks were a new product made in Limerick, Ireland.

In the 1700’s, as short sleeves came about, women began to adopt long gloves again, although this time it was deemed acceptable. By the latter part of the 1800’s, men and women were now proudly wearing buttoned silk and velvet gloves with evening attire and suede gloves during the day. This continued to progress, and even today, men and women around the world will often wear elegant white or cream colored formal gloves to black tie and white tie affairs.

Coronation gloves for Queen Elizabeth II made by Dents

It wasn’t long after that when men began adopting gloves for new purposes. With steering wheels being made of wood, they created driving gloves to protect their hands from splinters. With sports, came the advent of protective wear, and when latex was developed in Australia, workers in various professions such as construction began wearing gloves to protect their hands while at work.

Gloves, whether noticed or not, have become an accessory and tool that most men at once point or another wear. In cold climates, we wear them outside to resist frost bite, on the golf course to reduce friction and maintain grip and in the boxing ring to physically dominate our opponent before raising our gloves high into the air as a symbol of victory and defeat.

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Types of Gloves

There are so many types of gloves worn by men that to focus on each of them would take hours to read and days to write. I love writing, but this isn’t a book.

Here are just some of the types of gloves we wear today:

Winter Gloves

Specifically designed to withstand the cold and sometimes wetness, these gloves range from sports styles for athletes and youth to beautiful cashmere lined leather gloves that pair well with a business suit. One standard that’s come to be known is a “touch screen glove,” where the finger is made using conductive material, which allows the wearer to use smartphone or tablet touchscreens without first having to remove the gloves. Gloves for winter activities range in quality and resistance, with some providing just enough warmth on a chilly but not cold day to others being rated for outdoor use in the Arctic. I happen to live in a region that gets some of the coldest winters in the world, so I’m all too familiar with the big bulky gloves required to keep your finger tips intact. Of course, this doesn’t mean that to provide warmth, the glove has to be bulky. It often comes down to the quality and type of material used in manufacturing.

Athletic Gloves

The range from boxing gloves and golf gloves to baseball mitts and everything in between. The purpose of these gloves is to provide protection from various issues including, but not limited to, friction, abrasion, laceration, and thrust. They can also be designed to provide grip as is the case with rock climbing gloves and golf gloves. Odds are if you play a sport, you own one or two pairs of athletic gloves.

White Unlined Men’s Evening Gloves for Black Tie & White Tie by Fort Belvedere

Evening Gloves

Often made of velour, satin, silk, cotton, linen and various other materials, true evening gloves are made of kidskin or Nappa leather. Ideally, they are unlined to get the tightest, most elegant fit. In the past, it was difficult to dye leather pure white, and so cream was also acceptable. Today, white glove leathers are not impossible to produce anymore, and hence, a pure white that matches the white shirt is always preferable. They are worn at formal events with everything from a dinner jacket to tails. Some men involved in organized meetings such as the Freemasons will wear marked gloves indicative of their status within the fraternity while conducting official business. Other men will opt to wear them to the theater, dinner parties or celebratory events. In some cases, but not all, it’s expected that formal gloves will be worn to funerals, particularly for those who are actively participating in the burial. When you wear white gloves with your evening ensemble, make sure to remove them when you eat because keeping them on would be a faux pas.

Daywear Gloves

Often made of high-quality suedes or leathers, these are thin, snug fit gloves worn by men to accompany business attire worn during the day. While these aren’t often seen during the summer months, they are particularly popular in the autumn when it’s not cold enough for winter gloves, but there is a slight chill in the air. Other men will also opt to wear them when they have concerns about germs such as those who travel via public transportation and hold onto subway rails or touch knobs and handles frequented by others.

Protective Gloves

These are similar but differ from that of athletic gloves. Protective gloves are specially designed for those working in inhospitable environments. From firefighter gauntlets to police and military gloves, other styles of gloves include those worn by welders and construction workers as well as medical staff in hospitals and astronauts. Generally speaking, if you work or operate in any form of dangerous environment, there is probably a glove that can help keep you and your hands protected.

Driving Gloves

Driving Gloves

Originally developed due to the wooden steering wheels in the original Formula One cars, driving gloves have remained as staple in the gentleman’s wardrobe when driving luxury or sport automobiles. Obviously, you might look a little silly putting on leather driving gloves to take your kids to soccer practice in the Dodge Caravan, but if you own a Ferrari or a Rolls Royce, no one is going to give it a second thought. Not only does it assist with grip, but it also helps maintain soft leather that’s often wrapping the steering wheel and shift knobs of luxury cars.

Fingerless Gloves

Fingerless gloves are exactly that. They have no fingers, or the fingers are cut at the first joint. Generally speaking, these gloves are used for protection as well, often having protective qualities for the hand, but still allowing freedom to the fingers. These are very popular with military and police snipers because it allows them to shoot easier. They are also quite popular with weightlifters, bikers, fishermen and skateboarders.

Types of Materials in Gloves

Of course, the list of materials and fabrics that have been used in gloves is extraordinary. For those simply investing in a basic pair for daily wear, here are some of the most common materials used to make them:

Carpincho Leather Gloves – Similar to Peccary but not as nice, soft and durable

Carpincho Leather

Often mistaken for peccary leather, Carpincho leather is derived from the capybaras, a semi-aquatic mammal native to South America. It has an effect similar to suede with a look similar to peccary, yet it is inferior to peccary leather in durability, and softness. As such it is also less expensive.

Cow Hide Leather

Typically used in lower price gloves, cowhide is quite thick for a day or evening glove but is very suitable for those who either lose their gloves or want some winter protection.

Deerskin

Very rugged and coarse, but offering decent strength, deerskin gloves are sturdy and show a more pronounced grain making it popular with outdoorsy folks who hike in cold climates.

Deerskin Gloves & Slink Lamb

Goat Skin

These are sometimes the least expensive gloves as they are firm and far more harsh to the touch. Often people misconstrue this type of glove as being a premium material because they associate the goat with certain materials like pashmina.

Lamb Nappa

Lamb Nappa leather is chrome-tanned producing an extremely soft and supple leather that is used in top quality leather gloves only. The touch, thinness and flexibility make it ideal for elegant dress gloves for men and women.

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Hairsheep Leather

Finer and less bulky than most leather. It’s very supple and soft to the touch but offers enduring resistance to wear and tear. Sometimes it is also referred to as Cape Skin, which refers to hairsheep from South Africa.  Usually it is sourced in Ethiopia and Nigeria, whereas the Brazilian hairsheep leather is called Cabretta.

Kidskin Suede & Hairsheep Gloves

Sheep Skin & Lamb Skin

Often called shearling, this particular skin is used significantly in casual and country riding gloves. It has impeccable resistance qualities to cold weather and usually has another material such as wool as its lining. Although you do not need a lining for these gloves, the wool is so thick and dense that it is not suited for elegant men’s dress gloves.

Slink Lamb

Slink lamb is similar to sheep skin and comes with the wool on the inside. It is a bit thinner and softer than sheep skin leather and usually comes from New Zealand. Just like with sheep skin, it is too thick to produce elegant, tight fitting men’s gloves.

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Peccary

One of my favorite materials for gloves, peccary is bar none, one of the most superlative and rare materials found in gloves. Therefore making it the most resplendent style available on the market today.

Peccary leather is derived from the Peccary animal, which is part of the pig family. The best quality hides come from wild animals in Peru, where they are harvested under strict CITES regulations. Since the animals are wild and hence little scuffs and marks in the leather are not a defect, but much rather a sign of quality and wild origin.

Genuine peccary is identified by characteristic 3-prong pores.

Peccary leather has been so popular for gloves due to its extraordinary characteristics. It is both incredibly durable while being supple and soft. While a hand sewn seam can rip under extreme conditions, the leather can be resewn over and over again, and you will likely never be able to destroy peccary leather in the course of normal use. The leather will also grow softer the more you wear it.

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Peccary Gloves in Gray with Button & Alpaca Lining Fort Belvedere

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Reversible Scarf in Royal Blue & Red Silk Wool Polka Paisley & Glen Check – Fort Belvedere

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Peccary Gloves in Dark Brown with Crochet & Lining Fort Belvedere

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Peccary Gloves in Chamois Yellow with Button & Lining Fort Belvedere

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Reversible Scarf in Dark Green & Red Silk Wool Motif & Check – Fort Belvedere

Pigskin Leather

A less expensive and less refined option that looks a bit like peccary, but it is neither as soft nor as durable as peccary leather. One could also call it a poor man’s peccary leather.

Unlined Gloves

Most gloves today are lined. However, there was a time when the majority of men’s gloves were unlined. The purpose of gloves was simply to keep one’s hands dirt-free and the overall look elegant. Today, things are more practical and most men wear gloves only when it is cold outside, thus requiring a lining. However, if you live in warmer climates or if you want to wear gloves during fall and spring, I strongly suggest you give unlined gloves a try. Not only do you get to feel the leather directly, which is perfect for driving gloves, but due to the lack of glove lining, your gloves will fit tighter to your fingers and create refined look than lined gloves. Often gloves will feature linings to ensure warmth or comfort. Here are a few of the most common linings found today:

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Peccary Gloves Unlined in Grey with Button – Fort Belvedere

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Peccary Gloves Unlined in Chamois Yellow with Button – Fort Belvedere

Lined Gloves

When it is cold outside, lined gloves are the way to go, but you can choose from a range of linings. Think of the lining as a separate glove within the glove, that way the fit is ideal and comfortable.

Alpaca

Royal Baby Alpaca lining is one of the secret top performers in glove linings because it insulates better than any other animal hair or natural fiber. It is about 7-8 times warmer than cashmere because it is hollow and has an air chamber that acts as an insulator. Alpaca is slightly thicker than cashmere. With a thickness of about thicknesses between 19 – 22 micron for quality Alpaca hair, it is quite a bit thicker than cashmere hair, which means that it is less soft. However, the surface of Alpaca hair is smoother than cashmere, making it almost as soft as cashmere. Furthermore, Alpaca is elastic, lanolin free, and hypo-allergenic, making it ideally suited to people who are allergic to wool or cashmere. Since the best Alpaca fibers and peccary leather come from Peru, all Fort Belvedere peccary gloves are lined with Alpaca, in vibrant custom colors.

Cashmere

Incredibly soft and luxurious, most high-end gloves are lined with cashmere. It is an expensive lining option, and it comes in many colors though most gloves are lined in beige-brown cashmere, so your hands won’t show little knots in contrasting colors.

Unlike Alpaca linings, with colorful cashmere linings, one might sometimes see the fuzz on one’s hand after having worn the gloves for a bit, and cashmere lining also wears out faster than Alpaca. At the same time, it is incredibly soft and having a glove lining exchanged is not a problem for a skilled glovemaker.

Light Grey Men’s Gloves with Cashmere Lining – Fort Belvedere

Silk

One of the biggest benefits to silk is its warming and cooling qualities. It’s also very luxurious to the touch. It is mostly used for women’s gloves or as an alternative to unlined gloves. Your fingers will slip in more easily, but I personally prefer unlined gloves over silk lined gloves.

Wool

Most gentleman’s gloves are probably wool lined because it is affordable and functional. At the same time, it is not as soft as Alpaca or cashmere, and it also doesn’t insulate as well. As such, one could also refer to wool linings as poor men’s cashmere linings. Personally, I would always prefer cashmere or alpaca to wool, and you should do the same.

Fleece

Cheaper gloves are often fleece lined, and while it is warm, it pills more heavily, and your fingers are much more prone to sweating. Just like in suiting, you should stick to natural materials.

Shearling

Shearling gloves are sewn with the wool fur facing inwards keeping your hands warm. However due to the thickness of the material, these gloves are just functional, and neither look handsome nor elegant. Only wear these if you are in a ski resort town and it fits the overall theme. Otherwise, go with regular gloves.

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Handsewn vs. Machine Sewn

 Gentlemen’s gloves are either handsewn or machine sewn.

Gentleman’s Gazette offer both kinds of gloves in unique colors with a button closure that is very rare and hard to find.

Points

The points are the little decorative stripes on the back of a glove. While designing Fort Belvedere glove prototypes, I experimented with 4 and 2 points, but it simply doesn’t look as good as 3. Although just simple stripes, there are many ways to make those, either with just machine stitching, hand stitching or both. For Fort Belvedere gloves, we used more labor intensive points that are more decorative and well suited to the glove. For example, the white unlined evening glove for black tie and white tie events just received very subtle straight lines, whereas the most colorful gloves have more detailed points.

Quirks

Quirks are the little diamond shaped pieces of leather at the base of the fingers. The purpose of those is to enable a wider range of movement for your fingers with less resistance. 100 years ago, they were the standard for fine men’s gloves, but since it requires a few extra steps of work, most glove manufacturers have skipped that step. Fort Belvedere gloves come with these little quirks and the latest glove collection even features quirks in Fort Belvedere Signature Green. Under normal circumstances, they will often go unnoticed them. At best they will get a glimpse otherwise, it’s just a little feature that is a secret between the wearer and Fort Belvedere, the maker.

Close up of Quirks

Closure

Most gloves today feature a little slit on the inside of the wrist, which is supposed to facilitate putting it on. While this is the most inexpensive way to do it, you can find many other closures out there. Sometimes, you will see snap buttons, adjustable straps or other innovative solutions. However, the classic glove closure for gentleman is the button closure. Since it requires more time and skill to complete, it is very rarely found nowadays, and Fort Belvedere is one of the only companies that offers this kind of style with either handsewn buttonholes or piped buttonholes and leather covered buttons. That way, it fits tightly to your wrist and can be worn comfortably with shirt barrel cuffs as well as double cuffs. On the other hand, Fort Belvedere evening gloves have a side slit so they can be easily taken on and off because that’s important when you are at a black tie or white tie event.

Glove Sizing

When every man would wear gloves, you could get gloves down in quarter sizes, but today nobody does that anymore because it would require too much stock to keep which would mean the gloves would have to be sold at a higher price to offset the cost. In the pursuit of always lowering costs, most stores offer gloves in S, M, L and XL nowadays. At Fort Belvedere, we offer traditional glove sizing in 6 sizes ranging in half steps from 7.5 – 10 which covers 99% of men out there.

To determine your size, you basically measure around your dominant hand, excluding your thumb. The measurement in inches is your glove size. If you measure in centimeters, you have to divide the measurement by 2.54 to determine your glove size.

How To Determine Your Glove Size

Glove Etiquette

Gloves can easily transform an outfit from drab to chic with a simple stretch over the hand, especially if the color of the gloves sets an accent that harmonized with the rest of the outfit. However, like most outfits, gloves come with their own sets of rules and regulations. Here is a sample of some of the most fundamental etiquette requirements when wearing gloves.

There was a time when a gentleman would always wear gloves on the street when in town. Today, that’s certainly not required anymore, but it is perfectly okay to wear gloves when in public. During spring and fall, unlined gloves are the way to go.

Fit the Occasion

If you’ve opted to wear gloves to a wedding, ensure they are formal. On the contrary, a night at the cinema would easily require nothing more than a beautiful pair of unlined peccary gloves. With this in mind, winter and sports gloves need to be reserved for playing in the snow – there is no need to wear a pair of oversized ski gloves on a date to the art gallery.

How to Wear Gloves

It is always necessary to put your gloves on in the convenience and privacy of your own residence. It’s often unnerving trying to figure out when to remove your gloves and when to leave them on, particularly with elegant gloves. The standard rule is to leave them on for greeting guests, but, unlike women, the gentleman should remove the glove as a sign of respect to shake hands. It is also worn while performing activities including dancing or posing for photographs. Contrary to that, remove the gloves while dining to avoid staining them, first at the commencement of the meal, followed by putting them back on at the end. In addition, keep all jewelry off your gloves with the exception of a bracelet or watch touching the cuff, but not over. For any other additions, a crest, monogram or icon is only acceptable when it has some meaning. As an example, often Freemasons will wear formal white gloves with a blue Masonic icon embroidered on the backside of the palm. When removing gloves, one should practice enough that they can be swiftly removed ideally in private. Like a bow tie, however, it is always suggested that they remain on through the entire duration of the event as a sign of respect to your host or guests.

How to Maintain & Care for your Gloves

1. How to put on gloves: When you put on a glove, you should ideally not pull on the cuff, but gently push down in between the fingers

2. How to take off gloves: Gently pull the glove on each finger, until the entire glove comes off.

3. How to store gloves: Ideally, a glove should be pulled in shape and stored flat because it is a soft material, and if you roll up your gloves or stuff them in your pockets, and you maybe forget them in there, they will be out of shape and wrinkled when you remove them. Before putting them into your coat pocket, gently pull them in shape and put both gloves together in your pocket, so they stand out.

4. Wet Gloves: If your gloves get wet, lay them on a towel and let them dry naturally. Under no circumstances should you use a hair dryer, a radiator or direct sunlight. I once lost a peccary glove, and it laid outside in the water for a full day. It was soaked, and it took two days to dry it. Afterward it felt a little stiff, but as soon as I put it back on the leather became soft again. If you were not able to dry the glove properly, you would likely see some water stains. In that case, carefully dampen the glove equally, so it is wet all around. Then let it dry, and just like with shoes, the water stains should disappear.

5. If your glove is very wrinkled, you can use an iron on the lowest heat setting and use a dry piece of cotton to protect the leather from the iron. Lay the glove flat and without pressure, gently iron the glove. This needs some skill, and is best done by professionals. Otherwise you may run the risk of damaging your glove. Look for dry cleaners who specialize in leather, they should be able to help you.

6. With a good leather glove, the lining will wear out long before the leather. If that’s the case, you can have them relined.

Where to Buy Quality Men’s Gloves

For a selection of the best peccary and lamb skin gloves available, please visit our shop. All of these gloves were carefully designed by me and individually cut with special details such as quirks, contrast piping and button closure that you don’t find anywhere else.

Also, the colors chose are unusual but proven classics from the heyday of classic menswear. Apart from that you can find gloves at thousands of places out there, because gloves are often sewn at home, and so even larger brands produce allover the place. Every haberdasher carries gloves though usually you will only find versions in brown and black. More exquisite gloves usually will set you back more. Make sure to go with natural linings such as Cashmere, Alpaca or wool and avoid polyester and fleece lining. A hand sewn glove will be more expensive than a machine sewn one simply because it takes more time.

Conclusion

Whether hand stitched or done by machine, gloves play an active role in our wardrobe. They serve a purpose but also function as an accessory. Unless you happen to live in the tropics, I would highly recommend investing in a few pairs of nice leather dress gloves. It will certainly add something to your personal style that others will notice, and you can feel proud of. What are your favorite gloves?

This article was written by Sven Raphael Schneider with the help of J.A. Shapira.

Pitti Uomo is not just a feast for Pitti Peacocks and their clothes, but also for accessories. The other day, we took a closer look at the outfits at Pitti Uomo 89 but today, we want to zoom in on the sunglasses we saw on the street. Of course, just a pair of sun shades looks good on someone else, doesn’t mean it will work for you, but it provides great inspiration, and once you understand what sunglasses work well for your face shape, you will definitely improve your look.

Blue-green mirrored blue lenses with metal and acetate frame

People want to be unique in their style, and a pair of unusual sunglasses helps with that. This pair of sunglasses fits the bill as it is not your run-of-the-mill pair of ray-ban wayfarers.

Bold Aviator Sunglasses in Gold & Brown with matching Gold Collar Pin

In recent years, Aviators have been extremely popular. However, apart from the classic, well-known Aviator style, you can also find them in many variations with thicker frames and contrast elements. Matching the metal elements of your outfit is always a good idea because it creates a more harmonious look. As such, a gold collar pin works best with gold cufflinks and gold elements in your sunglasses.

Clear Sunglasses Frames

A few years back, clear sunglasses were quite rare, but now you can see them more often. Because of the transparent frame, you can see the metal frame underneath as well as every little manufacturing flaw. Therefore, it is important to take a close look at clear framed sunglasses.

Mr. Polo Filippo Matera wearing clear frame blue mirrored aviator-style sunglasses

Burgundy Brown Frames from Hipsteeps

If you are on a budget, and you don’t want to go mainstream you can find many little brands out there. Such as Hipsteeps. At $27 these classic sunglasses won’t break the bank but protect your eyes just as well as shades that sell for 10x.

Miguel Viera from Beyond Fabric Wearing Green Lenses with Amber Acetate Frame

If you are up for a classic style frame with a twist, consider investing in a pair of sunglasses in a classic shape with unusual colors. While the green lenses are nothing special, and amber acetate frame is certainly more unusual. It beats an unique frame in black any day.

Mr. Mohamad Ayoubi aka Roberto Mararo aka Mr. Raro from Mararo wearing an interesting pair of brown sunglasses

In case you want to go a step further, look into sunglasses with more details such as these sunglasses with a shade and contrasting metal details and temples. It reminds me of racing sunglasses but they o, viously work perfectly well for a stroll at on the street. Btw, this video shows you what Pitti is all about through the lenses of Mr. Raro:

Photographer & Artist Lyle Roblin wearing finely detailed metal frame round sunglasses

If shades on your sunglasses aren’t enough for you, try to find a pair with fine detailing like the metal frame sunglasses worn by Lyle Roblin.

Ray Ban Clubmasters with blue mirrored lenses

If mid-century modern is your style, a pair of Clubmasters sunglasses is certainly a good investment. Whether it is more fashion forward with blue mirrored lenses, or more classic with green lenses – it is certainly a timeless style that stands out.

Blue Mirrored Clubmasters From Ray Ban #2

László-Crinel Nagy from stilmasculin.ro wearing blue mirrored clubmasters #3

Traditionally, sunglasses frames in Acetate were finely polished but now, if you prefer a matte look, a frosted sunglass frame, like the one here worn by Parisian Gentleman Hugo Jacomet, may be right for you.

Hugo Jacomet from Parisian Gentleman wearing matte frosted blue sunglasses

If you wear regular glasses, a pair with prescription lenses may be the way to go for you. Normally, thick lenses with thin frames can look odd, but in this case, the lenses stand out so much that it is almost a deliberate fashion statement.

Extremely thick lense with mirrored green lenses

Sometimes, a very classic style works best, like the simple round sunglasses.

Classic Round by Ray Ban RB 3447 

Classic Round Metal Frame Sunglasses in Copper Tone – Timeless

Interpretation of the Classic Round Sunglasses

Round Carrera Sunglasses

Alternatively, you just go with some classic tortoiseshell sunglasses.

Classic Sunglass Shape with radiant blue lenses and matte finish

Or you mix round with tortoishell.

Round Tortoiseshell Sunglasses

Or maybe some horn frames…

Horn Style Frames with Blue Lenses

Or wooden sunglasses.

Wood Sunglasses with Mirrored Lenses

Sometimes, a classic frame in dark colors can work as well.

Ignatious Joseph wearing a classic, uneventful pair of sunglasses

More often than not, snap on sunglasses won’t elevate your style, however, ths ones below are certainly the eception to the rule.

The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear in Action

Now, women even have a larger range of sunglasses they can choose from, but this outfit 1940’s lipstick, collar pin and three piece chalk stripe suit was simply stunning.

Fabulous Sunglasses & Outfit from the Editor at Leleganza del gusto

Yours Truly with tortoiseshell acetate sunglasses on the second day of Pitti Uomo wearing a flannel windowpane suit by VBC

What are your favorite kinds of sunglasses and why?

For more in-depth coverage about sunglasses, make sure to check out our Sunglass Guide For Men well as the Primer on How To Find The Right Pair Of Sunglasses For Your Face Shape.

Valentine’s Day is right around the corner, and the pressure is on. While it can feel like one big capitalist cliché, chances are your partner will expect and appreciate some recognition for the relationship you share on V-Day (and you deserve some too!).

The Trouble with Valentine’s Day

Roses, classic but unoriginal

Unfortunately, the Valentine’s Day marketing machine focuses intensely on getting men to spend money to show their partner how much they love them and likewise, sets their partners up with the expectation that the amount of money spent is equivalent to how he feels. It’s not really fair to either side, as a result, Valentine’s Day can be a dreaded holiday that leaves many unhappy and resentful.

Furthermore, why the forced romance? It’s easy to say that you should show your love for your significant other every day as a matter of course, but the truth is that life often gets the better of us. There is value in being reminded to get outside of the daily routine and give romance and your partner a little TLC.

It is often the case that men and women have different expectations for Valentine’s Day. Let’s be honest here, the main conflict is often about romance vs. sex. Both are important, so how can you approach Valentine’s Day like a gentleman? Regardless of where the holiday came from and what it has become, ultimately it should be about finding a way to celebrate your relationship in a way that leaves you both happy at the end of the night. 

Take the Holiday Back

Here are our top tips for an enjoyable Valentine’s Day:

Talk about it. Forget about subtle hints! You can talk about Valentine’s Day with your partner. She may tell you she likes surprises, but if not, an honest conversation about what both of you want is best. 87% of women say they just want to spend time together, and it’s not about the gift. 

Yes, it is about her. At least, that’s what it looks like from the outside. Men feel pressure to deliver a memorable Valentine’s Day for their partners, and many women will feel judged other women on the gestures their significant other makes. It’s a tough situation to navigate, but you certainly won’t win with the “it’s a cliche so why celebrate it at all” argument.

Focus on the romance. You don’t always need romance to have sex, but Valentine’s Day is not that day. Romance needs to be the priority, and if you do that right, the rest will follow. 

Big gestures are risky

Money is not the solution. You can’t buy thoughtfulness. Big ticket purchases and over-the-top gestures can feel empty if the sentiment is not behind them. 

Chocolates

Avoid cliches, unless you know that’s what your partner likes. Don’t hesitate to buy chocolates and roses if that’s what your partner likes! But don’t buy these items as a default – it can appear to lack thought. Ordering flowers for delivery to her office is a nice touch if Valentine’s Day falls on a workday, and she’ll be the envy of her colleagues.

Case in point: Lingerie isn’t a gift for her, it’s for you. A gift is meant for the receiver, not for the giver, so stay clear of lingerie unless she has expressed interest in receiving it from you. Many women consider lingerie a gift men give to themselves that has nothing to do with her, and all to do with sex. In fact, in a 2008 survey, 22% of men surveyed said they were planning to give lingerie for Valentine’s Day and only 2% of women reported wanting it. Yikes! Those numbers are pretty dismal, but there is a way to avoid the most dangerous part of lingerie giving – ask her to pick out something that makes her feel sexy, and if she wants, shop with her.

Lingerie

For those willing to risk buying it themselves, one final tip: if you buy lingerie, do not guess her size. Giving her something much too large or much too small is going to be misconstrued as a statement about her body (however unintentional it may be), which can be a serious mood killer.

Finally, if you want to set the mood without falling into the potentially dangerous lingerie trap, consider gifts like candles, massages, new sheets, or a custom playlist of mood music.

Mood lighting

Effort matters. You many not have a large budget to splurge out on jewelry, or you may simply not want to participate in the marketing hype. But, that doesn’t mean you can’t make a nice gesture on V-Day. Putting effort into thinking about the day will clearly show, and it will count for a lot. Write a handwritten note, find a romantic poem, or make her breakfast in bed.

If you are not sure what to write in a note, tell her what your favorite romantic moment together was, describe when and why you first knew you were in love, or simply tell her what makes you love her right now. You may say “I love you” every day, but pairing it with a story will make it feel deeper and more special.

Notes are always more sincere when handwritten

If traditional gifts such as flowers and chocolates are your style, a little personalization will go a long way to making it special. Put together a bouquet yourself of her favorite color or variety and she’ll know you put some thought into it.

Dress the Part. You read GG, so chances are looking good is something you like to do. It’s a holiday, so why not take the opportunity to dress up? You’ll feel more confident, and your partner will probably appreciate your effort too. Or, choose the outfit you know your partner likes the best! Here’s my favorite:

My favorite suit in Raphael’s collection: Chalk Stripe by Ralph Lauren Purple Label with Fort Belvedere accessories

Focus on each other. This one’s simple. Make your partner the center of your attention when you’re celebrating. Keep your laptop and phone out of sight, the TV off, and turn the romantic music up!

Foolproof Valentine’s Day Ideas

• Dinner out is a classic, but for the best service, food, and experience, avoid booking on Valentine’s Day. If you’ve eaten out on V-Day before, you know it’s crowded, over priced, the staff are harried and you get hustled in and out as quickly as possible. Tell your partner you want both of you to take your time and enjoy dinner, so you made reservations for another night so you won’t be rushed. And, don’t forget the reservations (make them now!) because nothing kills romance like waiting in a crowded, freezing entryway for an hour. When V-day falls on weekend (like it does in 2016), brunch is a fun, spontaneous alternative.

• Cook for her, or cook together. Again, this is about spending time doing something together. Not sure what to serve? Epicurious has a list of menus to choose from and Food & Wine has a great page dedicated to it. Or, pull out your favorite or best dish. This Beef Daube has been a make-ahead classic in our house for years.  If you’re not comfortable cooking, there are many subscription meal services out there (Hello Fresh, Plated, Blue Apron) that allow you to buy meals for two that arrive with all the ingredients, a recipe, and clear instructions how to cook them – simple! Even better, they are usually less expensive per person than a restaurant meal.

Romantic getaway

• Get away for a night. No matter where you live, there is probably a romantic Bed and Breakfast within a couple hours drive. Getting away from the house is a perfect way to turn off the daily habits, distractions, and routine that can inhibit romance and true quality time together.

Cooking Class

• Find an activity you both like. Ice skate in the local park, go to the theater or take a cooking class or a dance class. Or, use your time to plan something in the future – a weekend getaway, a trip to the next town or destination event that you can share together.

Of course, even if you follow the leads above, it doesn’t hurt to add a thoughtful gift. So take a look at our Valentine’s Day Gift Guides for Her and our V-Day Gift Guide for Men!

What are your plans for V-Day? What have you had success with in the past?

Valentine’s Day isn’t just for the ladies anymore, though we wrote two guides so everyone can get in on the fun. Click here to read the gift guide for ladies, and continue reading for men.
It’s progressed from a Hallmark holiday of showering women with chocolate, flowers and lingerie to a celebration of mutual romance and commitment. Love is a partnership and today more and more couples use February 14th as a time to show their partner how much they mean to them. Here is this year’s curated list of gifts, hand-selected by our editors based on favorite products and what we believe the gentleman that read this magazine would be happy to receive.

Below you will find ideas for all budgets that will appeal to a wide array of gentlemen with unique personalities and discerning tastes.

Under $50

Saxx Underwear looks and feels great

Saxx Underwear – $12 – $47

There are lots of great men’s underwear brands on the market today, but Saxx remains one our favorites. Far more reasonably priced than many, Saxx is comfortable to wear for active days and days lounging on the couch. Exchange those Fruit of the Loom Spiderman briefs in for some underwear he’ll enjoy wearing, and you’ll enjoy looking at. Click here to get a pair.

Farmacia Santissima Annunziata’s Tabacco D’Autore Shower Gel & Shampoo – $31

My favorite new shower gel, this gel from the legendary and historic Italian perfumer is an aromatic yet light gel that’s so gentle it can also be used as a shampoo. It’s expensive for a shower product, but its scent is intoxicating. With high notes of bergamot, tobacco, leather and cedarwood, it is masculine and yet not overpowering. It’s a perfect scent for a meeting at the office, a date on the boardwalk or a formal gala. Regardless of where you wear it, you’ll be noticed. In a good way. Click here to get a bottle.

Penhaligon Blenheim Bouquet Deodorant

Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet Deodorant – $30

I’m often asked why I spend $30 on a stick of deodorant, but the fact is once you try it, you’ll understand. Now, a stick of deodorant may seem like an odd gift for Valentine’s Day and more like a Christmas stocking stuffer, however, we think it’s a great add-on to some underwear or a dressing gown. Plus, if he’s like most men, chances are he won’t buy it for himself.

The deodorant lasts all day in the hottest and most humid weather. Named after Blenheim Palace, the seat of one of England’s most respected families, the deodorant has a superbly masculine scent that isn’t overpowering but manages to do its job. Click here to buy it for him today.

Under $200

Miles Davis Kind of Blue – $96

You may think spending $100 on a vinyl record is ridiculous, but jazz fans and critics will argue it’s actually a good deal. If he’s a fan of jazz, Kind of Blue is the one album every man should have. Probably one of the greatest albums ever recorded, this is an LP he’ll be sure to cherish for many years to come. Click here to learn more about the album or click here to buy it.

The Crosley Executive Record Player

Crosley Executive Record Player – $109

For the gentleman who travels, spends as much time in the office or takes trips to the cabin to relax, having a record player available to him can significantly impact his day. This Crosley record player isn’t the best on the market if it’s being used as the main stereo. However, it’s perfect if he wants to bring it back and forth. Folding up into a rather beautiful suitcase, it’s the perfect stereo to bring with when you wish to listen to your record collection, but don’t want to drag a large stereo. Over the years, I’ve kept mine in the closet but pull it out when I’m going to the cabin. It requires no maintenance, consistently works and it’s incredibly compact. This is one travel product he’ll be sure to enjoy. Click here to buy the same one I have.

Lix 3D Pen

LIX 3D Printing Pen – $149

For the man who likes doodling, is artistic or just wants a neat tech-gadget, this 3D printing pen from Lix is one of the coolest trending toys of the year. No longer are you confined to the page, now you can build art. Click here to get one.

Snake River Farms American Kobe Wagyu Brisket

Snake River Farms American Kobe Wagyu Brisket – $179

If the man in your life likes to think of himself as a grillmaster, bringing home the perfect cut of meat is like bringing him a pot of gold. Snake River Farms is the foremost meat provider in the United States supplying to the very best restaurants including The French Laundry, Cut, CraftSteak, Morimoto, and more.

In my opinion, these are the best briskets you can buy, exceeding the quality you’ll get from any local butcher. With the highest grades of marbling, this brisket is perfect for the champion grillmasters of competitive barbecue or the professional chef. Click here to get my recipe for brisket and to read more about barbecuing low and slow or click here to buy one today.

Thiers Issard Spartacus Straight Razor

Thiers Issard 5/8 Spartacus Straight Razor – $194

If the man in your life enjoys the experience of going to the barber for a hot shave or has expressed interest in traditional wet shaving, this is the gift for him. One of the best straight razors on the market, and a personal favorite of mine, the Spartacus by Thiers Issard is a master crafted straight razor perfect for beginners and experts alike. Up his shaving game by giving him a razor that will last a lifetime. Click here to get one.

Under $500

Cigar Oasis Smart Humidor

Cigar Oasis Smart Humidor – Starts at $208

Awhile ago, Cigar Oasis sent me their smart humidor to try, and it’s changed the way I humidify my cigar collection. Living in an old house from the early 1900s, come winter it’s a challenge to maintain the humidity levels in my humidors. I would have to put shot glasses filled with distilled water in the humidor, and even then the levels were all over the map. Now that I have a smart humidor, the levels are always in the range of perfection. Able to be monitored and controlled from my smartphone and tablet, the humidor even sends me alerts via text and email if there’s an issue. It’s made my humidor virtually maintenance free, and it’s a gift any cigar smoker will appreciate. Just be sure to get the right size for his humidor. Click here to buy one.

Exquisite Derek Rose Pajamas

Derek Rose Pajamas – $275

Lingerie on Valentine’s Day is no longer just for women. Okay, so this isn’t lingerie, but a pair of pajamas that fit well, are exceptionally crafted and are comfortable can make sleeping an even better experience. Derek Rose is the foremost sleepwear designer, and although the prices reflect it, they are also worth every penny. If the man in your life enjoys wearing pajamas, consider a pair of these. Click here to get them or click here for our in-depth pajama guide.

Keurig Kold makes brand name soft drinks by the glass

Keurig Kold – $290

We’re all familiar with the Keurig, but if you haven’t heard of the Keurig Kold, it’s their newest creation. For men who enjoy a soft drink or often make cocktails from club soda or other carbonated beverages, a Keurig Kold is full of win. Without the use of cO2 canisters, he can now make individual cups of brand name soft drinks from Coke a Cola and other major brands. As someone with a mild addiction to diet soda, I can tell you first hand this would make a great gift. Click here to buy it.

Cire Trudon Ernesto Great Candle

Cire Trudon Ernesto Great Candle – $450

The Ernesto la Grand Bougie candle is probably the most masculine and gorgeous smelling candle ever sold. Reminiscent of Bar Hemingway at the Ritz, it’s a richly scented candle with strong notes of leather and tobacco paired harmoniously with undertones of cedarwood. It’s the perfect candle for his den, office or just to light in the bathroom while shaving. Click here to get one, it’ll last 200+ hours.

Pelikan Souveran M800 Fountain Pen

Pelikan Souverän M800 Fountain Pen – $450

Every gentleman should have at least one fine writing instrument. Montblanc may be known as the pinnacle of fountain pens, but if you prefer to spend less than $500, the Pelikan M800 is an exceptional pen for the value. In fact, I would probably argue that I use my Pelikan fountain pens far more often then my Montblanc Meisterstück or Starwalker. The collection from Pelikan is exquisite, and the craftsmanship is unsurpassed. The M800 is a great feeling pen to write with, and I’ve never experienced an issue with ink flow or quality. Beautiful, understated and elegant. What more could one ask for? Click here to buy one today.

Under $1000

MyTailor Gray Windowpane Flannel Suit Bow Tie, Edelweiss and Pocket Square all Fort Belvedere

MyTailor Made To Measure Suit – $799

We’ve tested and reviewed made-to-measure suits from various online merchants including Indochino, BlackLapel and MyTailor. In the end, the suits from MyTailor proved exceptional when compared to the competition. If the man in your life reads Gentleman’s Gazette, chances are a new suit will be one of the best gifts imaginable. Because you’ll need to know his exact measurements, this gift proves to be a chance for you to take part in something he may otherwise keep rather private. Sit down with a glass of wine and pick out the fabrics and the cut together. Make this the most special suit he owns by walking through the process with him. Perhaps go so far as to include a special message on the lining of the jacket to say how much you love him. Click here to see the options.

The Ritz Carlton Bachelor Gulch home of the worlds most expensive cigar

Gurkha His Majesty’s Reserve Cigars – $900 – $2,000 each

The most expensive cigar ever produced, it may not be the best one he’ll ever have, but it’s an experience he’ll treasure. A 15-year Connecticut Maduro wrapper with a 12-year-old Dominican binder and filler that’s aged and infused with a full bottle of Louis XIII Cognac. Initially only available to dignitaries, Ghurka now makes a limited selection of 75 boxes per year, for the cigar enthusiast, this is one cigar he’ll never forget.

You can also turn this gift into an experience by taking him to The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch in Colorado where he can enjoy one from their lounge for the price of just $2000 each. Click here to book your stay today.

Fantasy Gifts & Experiences

Austin Healey 3000

1964 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III BJ8 MK III – $99,500

A 1964 Austin-Healey 3000 MKIII isn’t hard to find, but one in this condition certainly is. Masterfully restored, the seller told me the overall state of this car is comparable to that of a mint condition/concourse example. All of the original metal work was re-chromed. The gauges and lights are all original with a clutch, transmission, and brakes that were all re-done at the time of the first restoration in the mid 70’s. This Austin Healey saw limited use (less than 8k miles) between 1976 and 2011 when it was sold to the next owner. It was driven to specialty events and never driven in any bad weather or rain according to the owner. For the classic car collector, this is one vehicle he’ll be proud to own and drive. Click here to buy it.

Sometimes, it’s the memory of an experience that outshines a gift. Isn’t that what Valentine’s Day is all about? Just spending time with the people you love. If your budget is big, consider one of the following experiences.

One and Only Ocean Club

One & Only Ocean Club – From $671 a night

If the Ocean Club sounds familiar, that’s probably because it’s the same resort heavily featured in the recent James Bond’s Casino Royale film starring Daniel Craig. Set on the tranquil powdery-white shores of Paradise Island in the Bahamas, the Ocean Club from One & Only is the pinnacle of Bahamian resorts. With a commanding presence over the beach, this is one of the most revered resorts on the planet and the perfect place to enjoy a romantic holiday for two.

The Impulsive

“Impulsive” Yacht Charter – $60,000 per week

I once had a chance to interview hotel tycoon Hank Freid for an article I was writing for James Edition. The owner of multiple super yachts, Freid often offers his ships for charter in the Mediterranean and Caribbean. An adrenaline junkie, Freid’s Impulsive is stocked with the latest toys including a waterslide that comes off the top deck. The sister-ship to the Moonraker, Impulsive is a backstage pass into the world’s most elite social circles.

The 36.6m yacht sleeps eight guests in four lavishly appointed cabins cared for by an expert crew of seven. The ship boasts warm and cozy interiors with large spaces for entertaining and spacious accommodations. The expansive main deck salon features a formal dining room for six with a sun deck for larger parties. There are multiple lounges, sunpads and deck dining under the stars. Rather than standard twin cabins, the ship has double cabins and a master stateroom with a king bed and ensuite jacuzzi which make it perfect for couples seeking a romantic holiday. Click here to charter Impulsive for yourself.

Conclusion

Valentine’s Day is a time for sharing, caring and showing your partner how much you care for them. We hope this unique list of gift ideas will help inspire you this February. What is the best gift you think a man can get? Should it be romantic or practical?

Finally, don’t miss our gift guide for the special woman in your life!

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In today’s video, we’ll have Aaron Marino from AlphaM. He’s a YouTube celebrity; he has appeared on TV shows like Shark Tank. He has almost a million subscribers, and his videos have been watched for almost a hundred million times.

Sven Raphael Schneider: Aaron, Welcome!

Aaron Marino: Raphael, it’s wonderful to be here, to be on your show. I’m telling you, I’ve done a lot of interviews but for some reason, I got so nervous coming to talk you, and the bar is set high, and so hopefully, I do an okay job, but it’s always great to see you and talk to you!

SRS: No, I love your energy, and you’ll be just fine. So just to start off, you originally came from the fitness world, and you transitioned into men’s style consulting. Today, you’re a very successful YouTube entrepreneur. Just walk us through on how you made it from the fitness world to where you are today.

AM: It actually started with a nutrition store. I get out of college, and I move to Atlanta, and I start working as a personal trainer at a fitness center. I met a guy, and he said “Hey, I want to start a nutrition store” and I said “That sounds great! Count me in, let’s go do this” and so I did that for a little while. About 2 years, we expanded to 3 locations, and I realized that I didn’t want to be in the nutrition industry. Specifically, with that, one was my business partner was selling drugs out at the back of the store, and so our ethics were definitely not in line, and I knew that prison was not a place where I would flourish. I’d be popular, but I definitely would not do well. I left the nutrition store, and I met a woman, and we decided to open up a personal training studio. Ever since the age of about 12, my only dream was to own a fitness center, that was it. That was ultimately success in my mind. I met this woman; it should have been an omen because we signed the lease to our facility on September 11th, as in the September 11th and so that was a bad day but you know, the future was bright, did that for a little while, and I was miserable. I was miserable almost immediately, my overhead was incredibly high, everybody made more money other than me. I developed a bleeding ulcer; it was just incredibly stressful, but while I was there, an interesting thing happened. A gentleman actually came up to me, one of my clients and said “Hey, I’ve got a hot date, I don’t know what to wear” and so I said “Okay, no problem. Let me come over to your place, we’ll check out and see what you have, and we’ll go get your haircut, trim your nose hairs because they’re ridiculous.”

SRS: (laughs) And you did that because you were a nice guy.

AM: And because I’ve always been interested in style, I’ve always been interested in grooming, and so he asked me to take him shopping, I do, it’s amazing, and he goes to work the next day, and a female coworker says “Hey, you look great. What did you do?” and he said “Well there’s this guy” and so she said, “Well, can I have his phone number because I want him to take my husband shopping.”

Shark Tank

SRS: Traditional word of mouth advertising, right?

AM: That was it! And so when I got that call, I was like “Okay, yeah! I’ll be happy to.” and then she said those magical little words, “What do you charge?” and that’s when I realized that there may be a larger market, there may be an audience for this. I didn’t even know what to call it. I ultimately found out that it was image consulting and so when I had the opportunity to get rid of my fitness center, ultimately I did some google search, I don’t even know if Google was out yet, but I did some internet searching, this was back in 2007, and I started looking to see what resources were out there for everyday regular guys like me, like my dad, like my friends, just to get simple, basic style advice and I found that there really wasn’t anything. I wanted to help my buddies, and so, I realized that there really wasn’t anything out there except at the time, like GQ and Esquire but that wasn’t my reality. I didn’t understand that level of dress; I didn’t understand high fashion and so I decided to create a resource and a solution, and that’s how my image consulting business got started.

Aaron Marino

SRS: What would you say are the lessons you learned along the way?

AM: Failing (laughs). There are many lessons I learned Raphael.

SRS: The three most important like you would say “If I were to do it all over again, this is what I would do.”

AM: Alright, Do background checks and understand who you’re getting into business with. The other tip I would give people is keep your overhead as low as possible.

SRS: When you start out, grow organically. The cost can always go up but bringing it down is much more difficult.

AM: Absolutely! And so many people get fixated on wanting a nice office, driving a nice car to meet clients. When I started my image consulting business, I always would park a block away before I met a client because I didn’t want them to see that I was a driving a beat up Toyota Rav 4. And a third tip, Just do what you absolutely love, if you can figure out a way to monetize your passion, there is absolutely nothing better. But here, I’m going to give you a bonus tip Raphael, understand that success does not always look like what you expect it will. When I was 12 up until the age of 30, success to me was one dimensional, it was a fitness center. If I didn’t own a chain of 27 fitness centers, I was not successful. Well, my view of success actually was and is has changed along the way. So you just have to be open to the possibility of changing.

Image Consulting – Aaron Marino

SRS: Absolutely. So, you started your YouTube channel in 2008 which is roughly when you started the image consulting so, why did you do that? YouTube was very new at the time. What kind of draw you to it?

AM: I got kicked off a reality show. (laughs) I got kicked off of a really bad VH1 reality show, and it was funny because a year before, my wife gave me a video camera for Christmas and a year after she gave it to me, I actually opened the box, and it was when I got home from this reality show and I was like “You know, I think I can make videos, I think there’s a message, I think that there’s an audience out there, and I’m going to see if there is.” I made my first one, it was like 2 minutes long, the resolution was like 180 p and the rest is history.

SRS: You said you made over 3000 videos which is a lot in itself, but you also don’t shy away from like sensitive topics such as to get rid of butt hair or shave testicles. How do you come up with these topics? Most people laugh or like “OMG, you can’t do that!” but your viewership numbers tell you this is exactly what people want.

AM: It’s funny! I have always been incredibly comfortable in my own skin and okay with talking about taboo subjects and taboo topics and so the way that I see it, if I’ve got a question about it or If I’m doing it, I should probably talk about it. That’s sort of how I approached my channel, it’s honesty and trying to give people the questions that they don’t feel comfortable asking their cousin or their uncle, Stan.

Alpha M s1e5

SRS: You know for these videos, I mean, do you research them for a lot of time or do you just go out and look? How does it come together?

AM: Usually, I will just think of something. I am constantly thinking about what would make a good video, and so I have a journal that I keep with me pretty much all the time that I write my video scripts in and I would jot down an idea that I would think would be an interesting video, and then I start doing research. Just like anything else, I do Google searches, Wikipedia is amazing and wiki how is also great but yeah, just research and put my own spin on most things and you know, it’s not all that difficult to come up with answers to some of these things.

SRS: You have a very broad bandwidth, you cover flirting, men’s style, appearances, hair, and grooming but ultimately, when I look at it as a whole, one can say it boils down to one thing which is confidence.

AM: If there is a word that you could boil my confident down into, it is that big C word. I’m a firm believer that when you’re confident, everything in your life is better. When I started this, I was trying to help people through style, through clothing. When you know that you look good, you start to feel good, it’s almost helping somebody develop their confidence from the outside in and if you do that enough times, it does something to your brain, and you start to associate yourself with this confident person that everybody, hopefully, discovers at some point. And so, everything I do and every video I write and I film is geared towards helping somebody feel better about themselves, and that’s a very broad topic, but since I have a background in fitness, nutrition, relationships, I feel like I can pretty much talk about anything.

SRS: How would you define style?

AM: Style is your personal packaging. Everything has a brand; everything has packaging, and so style is wearing clothing that really lets the world know what you’re all about in an instant, at a glance. People are forming opinions about you on the first three seconds of meeting you, it’s not a conscious decision, it’s sub-conscious, and they are forming opinions. If they don’t like the way you’re dressed, you’re going to have to work harder to convince them to give you the job, go out on a date with you, you selling them something and just taking the little bit of time to put together a package that is consistent with the way that you want to be received by others is the best time you can ever spend.

SRS: That’s good. that being said, what are your pet peeves? Things that really are so wrong that every man should know about them.

AM: It’s all about fit, you know that. By now, every style blogger from here to Taiwan, talks about the importance of fit but still, it blows my mind when I see somebody, and they’re wearing pants that are too big or they’re wearing a shirt that is too big. They associate large and roomy with comfort and so for me, the biggest pet peeve is not wearing clothing that fits you properly.

SRS: Okay, any others?

AM: Yeah, I don’t personally like short sleeve dress shirts.

SRS: I’m a hundred percent with you. Obviously, you like to work out, and you’re a more muscular guy so in your experience, what tips do you have for muscular guys if they have troubles finding things that fit?

AM: Great question! The best tool that you can have as a muscular or this doesn’t have to be just muscular but if you’re a hard to fit body type, find a tailor. Somebody that can alter clothing well. The money you spend on having something altered just to customize it to your body is a hundred times worth the expense of the alteration. So finding a good tailor, going in stores and sort of just playing around and trying different brands on because all different brands, all the brands fit and cut clothing differently. So I would say, find a tailor and try experiment with different brands to see if there’s anybody who actually makes a cut that’s more flattering to your muscular body.

SRS: What would you think would your viewers/listeners/readers be surprised to learn about you?

AM: That I like antiquing. I love art. There’s nothing that’s more relaxing to me than putting on my headphones, putting on Pandora and walking through antique markets. I love antiquing. (laughs) I’m like a little old lady.

SRS: I wouldn’t have thought! We like antiquing; there are great flee markets in Boston. Do you have anything that you travel to particularly or do you go to Paris just for the antiquing?

AM: No, my antiquing stays local. I’ve got enough big antique markets and fairs to actually go to. I’ also am a big fan of folk art, I love folk art. I’ll go to a lot of art shows, and anytime I can get my hands on something that really just appeals to me; I will buy and invest in art.

SRS: So you know, the other day, I watched one of your videos, and I read the description underneath where you list all the businesses you’re involved in, and I was like “That’s quite a bit!”, tell us more about what you’re working on right now and what’s going to happen in 2016?

AM: I am a serial entrepreneur. The biggest fear I have is thinking of an opportunity and not going after it and seeing if it can work. Now, one of the downsides to being an entrepreneur is that you can spread yourself too thin and sort of, right now I am maxed. I am tapped out with businesses. Ultimately, the number 1 most important thing that I need to do in the day is create content because without content; nothing else works, but because I’ve built this audience, this following, I have basically just created all these different vertical businesses as a result.

SRS: If we look at it you know, on the one hand, you have your YouTube channel, do you still do the consulting?

AM: I don’t. That’s the thing that I have given up, I don’t do one on one consulting anymore. The time is just not worth the commitment or the time commitment was just not worth the money, so I’ve given that up.

Pete and Pedro

SRS: You started Pete and Pedro hair products, right?

AM: Yeah, I have a hair product company. I’m getting ready to launch a skin care company, Tiege Hanley and I’m working with 2 amazing partners and an incredible chemist, and that’s probably the biggest business that I ever embarked on, but that’s amazing because the first time I really felt like I got incredible people around me that get *** done.

SRS: Hopefully, you did a background check on them.

AM: (laughs) We’ll talk about that later, but there are things in the legal documents that will take care of anything if anybody gets out of line or has done anything in their past that would come back to haunt us but yes, we’re good.

SRS: So when is this brand going to launch?

AM: Probably around May, spring of 2016. There’s a whole lot of logistics around it, the concept is different than just a skin care company that sells products, we’ve got a unique value proposition, and so I’m real excited about that, we’re still sort of in the hush-hush phase of it.

SRS: That’s good to know, and it may take longer and cost more, but eventually it will come to but before then, in March you have men’s style con.

AM: Style Con baby! That is the even that I look forward to all year! It was mind blowing to me. Here’s the thing, as an entrepreneur, as a content creator, Raphael, you know this better than anybody, it’s a lonely road and there aren’t people, like when I go to a party, when you go to a party, you meet people, they’re very nice people but you have zero in common with them, at least, I do, and when I say things in common, there’s a different level, and there’s a different persona of somebody who is an entrepreneur that is a creative type person and so going to Style con, it was like I found my people. All these incredible guys that just get it and it was a wonderful experience, regardless of when you’re into style or fashion, it’s about community, about being better and being around people that will nurture that goal.

Antonio Centeno and Aaron Marino

SRS: No and I can agree, you meet people, working with people and you say there’s this great brand and then you meet them in person, and it’s just a very different experience that provides a great return for both parties, and so it’s a win-win for everybody. I know that last year, you put a lot of time into this event, with all you side businesses and stuff, will you have the same amount of time to dedicate to it this year?

AM: It’s not about will, it’s about making time. Yeah, last year, because it was bigger than the first year that we had kind of in the backroom of a bar, there was a lot of things that I needed to figure out that Antonio and I needed to figure out. So last year was very, very labor intensive. This year, a lot of the things we needed to figure out, we figured out last year.

SRS: You have some experience, and it makes it easier.

AM: Yes but it’s still not easy and thus absolutely takes a lot of time.

SRS: If you have such a crammed schedule, time management is important. What does a regular day in the life of Aaron Marino look like?

AM: I wake up at 5 am, everyday. I’m at Starbucks by 5:30, I work until about 7:30 then I go to the gym, exercise. Usually, I do my cardio in the morning, come home, eat. Get to the office around 10-10:30, start filming videos or video, I film one video everyday, and then I work all day until about 7:00 and then sometime I go to the gym again and just do a little bit of something, go home, eat dinner and then I’m pretty much working until about 9:00 – 9:30 when I shut it down and go to bed. Weekends, I take a little bit of time for myself and my wife.

SRS: Very good! So what do you do on the weekends?

AM: Netflix! We’re, big homebodies, we go out to eat, we like dining out, but my wife is a fantastic cook, and so usually, we’ll go out to eat once a weekend, and sometimes we’ll go see a movie or go to the park or go hike the mountain but something active usually is a mandatory must have for the weekend but then there’s a lot of vegging out time where we’re just watching Netflix in the media room and just not talking. I talk so much it’s really nice when I just don’t have to talk.

SRS: I see that but you know if you have Starbucks everyday, maybe there’s a potential collaboration down the road.

Aaron Marino – Entrepreneur

AM: I wish! If you can figure out that mechanism Raphael, we need to do it, that’s a new business all on its own.

SRS: Probably! Now, with all your businesses and experience, with your ups and down in life, what would you say was the best piece of advice that has ever been given to you?

AM: It’s actually from a Ted talk that totally changed my view on business. It’s by a gentleman named Simon Sinek, and he’s a big leadership expert and the Ted talk, it was Start with Why. Basically, showing the difference in why certain brands are successful, certain companies are more successful than others and when you, I don’t want to ruin the video but I would just say that If you’re listening or watching this, watch the video. It is incredibly important to let the audience know, and the customer know, why you’re doing something as opposed to what you’re doing and if they believe you, if they trust you, if they know that you intentions are honest and true, you will be successful beyond your wildest dreams. It’s when you make money the goal, money the key and you tell people what you do as opposed to why you do it, if they can see and feel that passion, they’ll follow you to the end of the earth.

SRS: It shines through and you know it makes sense cos you’re happy, you exude that positive energy and it’s not just making a quick buck selling cellphone cases on Amazon or whatever it is.

AM: Not that there’s anything wrong with cellphone cases on Amazon but it’s about that passion.

SRS: What would you say is your goal for the next 5 years?

AM: The only goal that I have for myself in terms of something that needs to happen is that I need to be as happy as I am right now. If I can maintain this level of fulfillment, if I can maintain this level of passion and excitement, everyday I jump out of bed, and I’m excited to get to work creating content. If I can be here in 5 years, I will be absolutely thrilled. Now, will some of the things change along the way? Yes but it’s okay, and so I just need to stay focused, stay passionate, and hopefully, I’m in a very happy, emotionally healthy, fulfilled place five years from now.

SRS: Those are good goals! Thank you very much, Aaron and if you want to check out his YouTube Channel…

AM: Wait a second, you’re not getting out of here with me asking you a question. What’s your goal in 5 years?

SRS: Well, I’d like to have grown a nice business that is small enough to be reactive and actionable and active but at the same time, being able to truly just do what I want to do. For example, when we started, my wife and I, we’re both a team, and when we started, she believed in me and said you know, you’re good with this, do this. I’m going to go and get a regular job so we can pay the bills, and now, she’s on our team so we can do stuff together. Just last week we went to Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence for a week, and now we’re going to go skiing, we like to travel, antiquing and so my goal is that we can do even more of that, be really independent, be with friends, with people that we really appreciate and of course for the website, grow consistently, have a great YouTube channel and so we can kind of you know, help men across the globe but not have something like GQ or Esquire, when you read it, and you’re like ” I don’t like that or agree with that” So I hope that, we’ll be in a position where we’ve more influence on the people than we have today.

AM: Did anybody recognize you in Florence?

SRS: Oh, yes actually. It’s funny cos you’ve never met those people, and you’re just on the street, and people come up to you and talk to you, and some others were bloggers for example, and that was at the conference but then on Friday, we just walk through the city, went through little stores looking for items and so there was a beautiful little glove store and we sell gloves, but it doesn’t mean we can’t go in there and look. So we walked in there, and there was the guy from Portugal, and he said “Oh! you’re from Gentleman’s Gazette!” It’s great, it’s wonderful.

AM: Well the interesting thing and I’ve said this to you when I met you in Style con, it was actually a year ago. I said, when you started making videos, that’s when everything changed for me, for you and your site. You all of sudden, instead of having just a bunch of great content, all of a sudden, we got to know who Raphael was and who Raphael is, an amazingly charming and engaging and happy person and so that totally changed, like with your logo even, it’s very polished, professional and it added a level of warmth and depth to your content that was amazing, and so you did something very, very smart of letting people into your life and letting them know who you are.

SRS: You already did that eight years ago, and I think the video gives people the opportunity to see you as you are. It’s less filtered, it’s more yourself and in the beginning, if you look at videos of you and of me, it was weird because we weren’t like ourselves in a way, you know it’s new, you look into the camera and stuff like that but once you get used to it, people can really see who that person is rather than just reading the words which can be very ambiguous.

AM: Absolutely! Kudos to you sir, kudos to you!

SRS: Kudos to you and I look forward to seeing you in person at Men’s Style con.

AM: Absolutely! Thank you so much, Raphael!

I once walked into Cabela’s and asked for a tweed jacket and a pair of breeks. The salesperson gave me a puzzled look. They had neither. Instead, they had rows and rows of camouflage, racks of mass-manufactured guns and a man standing in front of me with one hand holding up a fishing rod and the other down the back of his trousers searching for what I can only assume was gold.

While most men in the U.S. think of hunting as a sport for hooligans driving oversized pickup trucks and drinking cheap beer, few remember it was once a gentlemanly sport and in the British countryside, remains that way today.

The Hunt

Despite what you may have heard, camo is not a prerequisite of hunting. Will it increase your chances of successfully nabbing your prey? Possibly. But let’s not forget that for the thousands of men who don tweed coats and a tie with their gundog beside them, finishing a successful hunt has been a longstanding tradition in country attire. And today, much of it remains the tradition for the most dapper shooters visiting Britain’s vast and exquisite countryside estates.

History of Recreational Hunting

Traditionally, the benefit of owning property meant the right to hunt and rather than living on someone else’s land, the noblest of men would seek out their own estates. Hunting has, for the most part, been a recreational sport since Assyrian kings hunted lions from their chariots. As Royals, they believed any land within their kingdom was their entitled property, and so hunting was also a way for the nobility to demonstrate dominance over their people. As the game moved away from inhabited lands, forests became known as hunting reserves, and Royals would mount their steeds and with a hound beside them, tread into the reserve. As the 12th century came about, gamekeepers were charged with monitoring the big game population in the forests and smaller game in the warrens. Despite hunting being a sport enjoyed by all demographics, England decided to regulate it due to the dwindling numbers of wildlife and those without a status of nobility were no longer hunting, but poaching and, therefore, subject to severe punishment by the courts. It became a stylized pastime of the aristocracy and an arena for fellowship as well as military training. Hunting was no longer a right, but a privilege and measurement of one’s class.

A traditional shoot lunch following a day of hunting

Fast forward a few centuries and just as formalwear dwindled from white tie to black, so did the legislation regarding who could hunt. No longer was it reserved for men of nobility, but now, hunting was open to everyone, yet still a sport respected by and participated in by the noble class.

Today, hunting is enjoyed by men and women from all backgrounds. While there are certainly some connotations of social structure within groups of hunters, it is a pastime treasured by many and one that is growing in popularity around the world.

A Change in Attire

During the Edwardian and Victorian eras, country clothing was the attire of choice for those living in and visiting the British countryside. Today, in much of Britain it remains the same. However, trends have sparked in North America where most hunters have adopted a far more casual wardrobe comprised of camouflage and war paint.

Country gents toasting

It began simply because experts believed that by disguising yourself into the environment, you would be less likely to spook your prey and, therefore, enjoy a far more successful hunt. Adopting patterns and colors from various military units, men began painting their faces with war paint and donning ghillie suits to blend in with their surroundings. As years passed most men living in North America started to associate this attire as a uniform of sorts and for the few gentlemen left who enjoy dressing for the shoot, it’s become difficult to find proper shooting attire and even harder to convince fellow enthusiasts that you’re going hunting and not attending a wedding.

I am often shocked by how many people I meet who don’t believe me when I tell them that a tweed jacket, a tie and a pair of breeks are traditional hunting apparel. In fact, to prove this, I stood outside a local hunting store and asked men and women how they would react if a friend showed up in a jacket and tie to go hunting. The answers ranged from laughter to shock and surprise that men actually dressed like that. One woman, however, remembered seeing similar apparel in an episode of Downton Abbey. I won’t repeat what her husband said.

Cabelas is the modern hunting store for camo and guns

Unfortunately for the dapper gentleman, shooting apparel has dwindled in the same sense that men stopped wearing slacks and blazers in the 50s and 60s and reverted to sweatpants and hoodies as being the socially acceptable attire for a day out. However, there is a contingent of us still who enjoy dressing for the event, and there’s no reason we can’t wear traditional country attire for a day of shooting. Any man who claims you won’t have a successful hunt should be reminded that camo has been used for just a few decades whereas men have been successfully hunting in elegant attire since the Romans.

A Dapper Gent in his Shooting Attire

Standard Country Dress

The most important thing to remember when dressing for a day of shooting is to layer based on the weather and the season. Wearing bulky coats is a hindrance, but a proper outfit for hunting will be easy to move in, comfortable to shoot with and will keep you warm and toasty in even the most inclement weather.

First Layer

Long Shooting Stockings

Most shooting socks are long, come in various attractive patterns and a multitude of colors. They are usually made of wool with a little nylon for reinforcement. To prevent them from falling, it is highly recommended that you wear garters with your socks to help keep the seam between them and your breeks weathertight. Click here to get a pair of basic shooting socks.

Exquisite craftsmanship on this bespoke gun

Breeks

Also known as Plus Two’s and Plus Four’s, breeks – or breeches as they are sometimes called in the US – are trousers cut with either two or four inches of fabric beneath the knee. A proper pair of breeks will be made from weather resistant and warm British tweed and will either match your waistcoat and jacket or be stark in contrast. They are usually adjustable at the side and calfs and can be used in all sorts of outdoor activities such as a hike, a game of golf or a leisurely stroll with loved ones. Click here to get a set of Musto breeks.

Downton Abbey has brought shooting back into popularity

Check Shirt

There are many different shooting shirts available, but most come in a check pattern such as a tattersall or a gingham. Although they look identical to most dress shirts, it’s important to wear proper shoot shirts as they are thinner, longer and are made to allow free movement when shooting. A traditional dress shirt will limit your range of motion, and you may also find that it comes repeatedly untucked as you draw. Often made from a blend of cotton and wool, these shirts are warmer and slightly heartier than most dress shirts.

Braces

The standard method of keeping one’s trousers up when hunting is to wear a pair of braces (or suspenders). The ones sold by proper shooting purveyors are typically made from box cloth and are far sturdier than other braces you might own. Despite their heft, they are still far more elegant than the contemporary hunting suspenders worn by most today.

1

Neck Tie

The neck tie is a standard accessory worn by gentleman during a hunt. Held down by the waistcoat and often pushed up with a collar pin, they are usually made of wool rather than silk to withstand the weather and often come in bright colors or with hunting-related prints such as running hares, birds, or hounds. Click here to find the perfect Fort Belvedere necktie for shooting.

Second Layer

The second layer of clothing is always worn in addition to the base layer, regardless of weather.

Wellington Boots or Brogues

Wellington boots are the standard while hunting, but recently men have begun to wear brogues as well. The benefit of the boots is that they are made to withstand water and mud. Even if you hunt while mounted on a horse or from a dry hunting reserve, the risk of having to trudge through wetlands is all-too-normal in the world of hunting. Like a Boy Scout, it’s best to be properly prepared, and a good pair of wellies will get you where you want to go and back again. Save the brogues for the lodge. Click here to buy a pair of traditional Wellington boots from Hunter.

Various Odd Waistcoats for the Country Gent

Waistcoat

Today, unless you’re a member of the royal family, odds are you’ll load your own ammunition and not have a loader assigned to you during the shoot. The best waistcoats to wear for a warm-weather shoot are actual shooting waistcoats with large, baggy pockets for cartridges and built-in shoulder pads to protect the fabric from wearing out and your shoulder from the butt of the gun. In cooler weather, a warm wool waistcoat that’s sleeveless is ideal. The lack of sleeves is to allow a far greater range of motion, so your sleeves don’t bulk up as you draw, aim and fire. Since you’ll be wearing a jacket or coat, you won’t have to stop and pull your sleeves down after each shot.

Prince William inspecting a hawk

Third Layer

Tweed Jacket or Field Coat

In warmer weather, classic country attire calls for a three-button, single breasted jacket made from tweed. In most cases it will feature a notch lapel. However, some men have opted to wear peak lapels as a bold sign that their jacket is bespoke. Unfortunately, some experts argue that the larger peak lapel can impact the quality of the shoot if it interferes with the butt of the gun. For colder weather, a proper coat is ideal. There are many different ones to choose from such as the quintessential covert coat, the Norfolk jacket and the hacking jacket featuring larger pockets that are ideal for carrying ammunition.

Well-dressed hunters

Cap

A gentleman’s hat is a traditional accessory in Britain. Historically, men would never leave home without one, and the hat worn often identified a man by his class. This is no more apparent than in the hit television show Downton Abbey. If you’re a fan, you’ll notice that the nobility will wear a homburg or top hat with formal wear whereas the staff will usually wear a bowler instead. Just as these hats were worn in society, caps were worn by men during a hunt.

The most common cap was the flat cap which should be snug and worn front facing to protect your eyes from the sun. Another option that became quite popular in the 1920s and onward is the fedora and even the trilby. However, the classic choice is always the flat cap which is usually made of tweed. Click here to get a tweed cap.

The modern hunter apparel of Duck Dynasty

Accessories

There are a few basic accessories many men choose to wear during a shoot:

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Scarf

From a style standpoint, a gentleman should never wear a coat without a scarf. Adding a scarf is what finishes the outfit, and while it’s certainly not a requirement, it is another way to add some sprezzatura to what can sometimes be considered a rather bland outfit. Not only will a scarf keep you warm, but it adds an element of sophistication and allows you to showcase your flair for style. Click here to find the perfect scarf for a day of shooting.

Gloves

Shooting gloves are almost mandatory. Cold fingers can be dangerous to your health as well as impact the quality of the shoot. Traditionally, the gloves worn would be a relatively formal lined leather glove made from deerskin or capeskin, thin enough that one could still pull the trigger.

A traditional fox hunt underway

Cufflinks

Cufflinks remain another way of showcasing some style in an otherwise restrained outfit. This is a perfect time to pull out your novelty cufflinks and put on the dog or horse-shaped ones. It’s great to be creative, but you also want to make sure it doesn’t come across as gaudy. Click here for a set of novelty sterling cufflinks.

A Royal Hunt

Flask

For the record, we do not suggest consuming alcohol when handling firearms. However, for those who do enjoy a drink during the shoot, pulling out a flask is far more elegant than simply grabbing a bottle of beer. Whether it be a leather-wrapped flask or a metal one, you can find them on sale starting at just a few dollars and upwards of hundreds. Click here to get an inexpensive leather-wrapped flask.

Hunting Outfitters and Merchants

A few brands specialize in shooting attire and proper country wear, and we listed some of them below in random order.

Wool Challis Yellow, Green, Burgundy Pheasant Ties by Fort Belvedere – ideal for hunting and shooting

Cordings of Piccadilly

“Without question Cordings is the complete outfitter, you have everything under one roof.” – Duke of Wellington, Customer.

Our top pick for country attire, Cordings is known as the preeminent purveyor for the discerning gentleman. They sell everything you could possibly need to outfit yourself for a shoot, minus the guns and ammunition.

Cordings Entrance on Piccadilly

Musto

A more contemporary version of the traditional country attire, Musto is another high-quality merchant supplying hunting apparel to the distinguished shooter. Click here for their website.

Hunter

Hunter makes some of the finest Wellington boots on the market and is the only brand of boots recognized by Cordings of Piccadilly. If you’re looking for a top drawer boot that can take a beating, Hunter’s should be your top pick. Click here to buy a pair of classic Hunter welly boots or click here to visit their website.

Picture from Livre de la Chasse showing relays of running hounds set on the path of the hart

Horse Country Carrot

Sometimes, for those in North America, the thought of spending thousands on British apparel and then having to pay duty at Customs is too much to bear. For those in the United States, there is this merchant in Virginia that sells tweed country clothing. You may not find everything you’re looking for, but you’ll certainly find some of it. Click here to visit their website.

Dubarry

Another traditional outfitter, Dubarry is an Irish merchant with a US presence online. With a more contemporary appeal, Dubarry carries clothing for the entire family and specializes in women’s apparel. Click here to visit their website.

The common pheasant is a popular game for recreational shoots

Härkila

Far more casual and modern, Härkila is perfect for those men who want to fit in with their friends who wear camo but still look better than the bunch. Rather than being the odd man out in tweed who never gets invited back, consider this brand a stepping stone if you’ll looking for a more elegant outfit. Click here to see their website.

Schöffel

Another very contemporary brand, the big selling point with this German merchant is that they are recognized by Cordings and even sold in their stores. It’s another ideal stepping stone into traditional British country attire. Click here to shop for their products.

House of Bruar

If Schöffel is casual wear and Cordings is business attire, the House of Bruar is business casual. A renowned retailer of countryside attire, Bruar is another top pick when you’re looking for something slightly more modern and yet still refined. Click here to find their website.

Brandecosse

This Scottish boot maker is renowned for their leather Wellington boots. They offer a fairly wide range and are often considered a more formal boot than what’s produced by Hunter. Click here for their website.

Aigle Parcours

Known as the first anti-fatigue Wellington style boot, Parcours makes their boots with comfort in mind. They claim that after a full day trudging through the forest, your feet won’t be tired or sore. We haven’t tested this, but they have developed a superb reputation. Click here to see their site.

The history of the shoot lunch

John Field

The Belgium clothier is best known for their rainwear and casual shooting attire. They have developed a stellar reputation for shooting in wet conditions, so it’s wise to consider them if you’re in need of some extra rain gear. Click here for the official website.

Le Chameau

Another top boot merchant from France, Le Chameau offers handmade, reinforced, water-resistant Wellington-style rain boots made for shooting. The best part is that they’re quite inexpensive. Click here to visit their website.

Woodcock & Snipe

Another classic sporting purveyor, Woodcock & Snipe manufacture the most traditional hunting attire for the British countryside. Offering a similar selection as Cordings, they are slightly less known which means they also tend to be a little less expensive. Click here for their website.

Conclusion

Don’t allow the clothing you wear to be dictated by trends and friends. If you allowed that in other parts of your life, you would be wearing sports jerseys and sunglasses at night. There is no reason one cannot dress elegantly for what was once considered the noblest of sports. Chances are if your hunting friends poke fun at you, they’ll stop quickly when their girlfriends and wives start complimenting your attire later that night.

What do you wear to go hunting? Would you like to see more articles on shooting in the future?

What was once viewed as the biggest mistake in horology, is now one of the most coveted timepieces in the world. That’s right, we’re talking about the Rolex Daytona.

When it was initially released, Rolex almost had to scratch the project because sales were so poor. It was the 1960s and for thirty years, Rolex had already been producing chronographs. However, when Heuer launched the Autavia in 1962 and the Carrera a year later, there was a boom in popularity and the chronograph became the world’s most wanted complication.

Now one could argue that Rolex had been making the Daytona for awhile, although it was never actually coined as such. In fact, we have to look back at the history of Rolex to find the inspiration behind one of the world’s most recognizable watches.

Vintage ad for Rolex and NASCAR

The History of the Daytona

The year was 1935, just a few short years before the world went to war for the second time. A young man from Maryland was turning 26-years-old and decided to leave home to pursue a dream. As a fan of the legendary racer Sir Malcolm Campbell, this young man ventured forth to Daytona Beach, Florida where he planned to make use of the skills he acquired as a young boy when he raced his father’s Model T Ford instead of attending school. The man’s name was William France, and he would later become the founder of NASCAR.

Sir Malcolm Campbell was a legend. Shortly after the First World War, he left his home in Britain and ventured to Daytona Beach where he set multiple land speed records. Receiving international press, he drew the attention of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex. In a short time, he became the voice and the face of the Rolex watch brand. From there, Rolex’s relationship with auto racing would grow and get bigger once the young William France started NASCAR.

The William France partnership ad with Rolex

Fast forward to 1955, and the chronographs Rolex started producing back in the thirties would be featured on a watch that looked eerily similar to the Daytona, but sold under as the Rolex Chronograph Reference 6234. Visually, it was remarkably close to the modern Daytona, but instead of the automatic movement, it was manually wound. Sales were pitiful, and Rolex barely squeezed out 500 units a year. Five years later and looking to make something from their investment, Rolex decided to revive a name it had registered a few years prior. The chronograph watch was then rebranded as the Rolex Cosmograph and they introduced it again in the mid-sixties yet again as the Rolex Le Mans Chronograph.

Legend has it that sometime in the sixties, Rolex decided to capitalize on their relationship with France’s new company NASCAR. Based in Daytona Beach, it is said that Rolex first began using the name Daytona on their chronographs, but only in very limited quantities.

Unlike the chronographs Rolex had previously built, the first versions of the sports chronograph in the sixties changed from subtle and more elegant watches to resemble a very masculine and rugged timepiece that Rolex hoped would compete with Heuer and Omega. Rolex had developed a reputation for making tough watches and learned that Omega had created the Speedmaster with the hopes of sending it to the moon on the wrists of astronauts. Rolex, leaving the racing circuit behind temporarily, thought they could compete with Omega and actually solidify their market share by being the first watch to go into space. It made it to testing but in the end, NASA chose the Speedmaster which was more successful than Rolex’s Cosmograph. Now that they left auto racing, Heuer had filled that void and Rolex was left in the dust with nothing to do. Executives at Rolex put their heads together and began debating how they could corner a market with their watch that was now sitting idle. That’s when they remembered their former spokesman, Sir Malcolm Campbell.

Campbell was happy to help and enlisted the help of his new friend and NASCAR owner William France. Directly competing with the Formula One circuit Heuer had capitalized on, France was excited to give Rolex the chance to represent his brand and in 1964, a relationship with NASCAR was born.

The Rolex Le Mans advertisement

As the fanbase grew, Rolex began sponsoring races and advertising with the NASCAR logo. They sponsored winning drivers and soon, the NASCAR fans were buying Rolex watches like their favorite racers owned. The NASCAR brand was becoming so popular, that France realized he could no longer fill demands with his track, and he built the Daytona International Speedway. The Cosmograph, which Rolex named in hopes of sending it to space, would now be rebranded yet again, and the unsuccessful watch called Le Mans would lose its sophisticated French appeal for a more ‘American’ name. The largely unpopular sports chronograph that was barely selling would now be called the Daytona, but just in time for the watch world to change yet again.

As the 1970s rolled in, the quartz movement became popular. However, it lacked appeal with the more discerning watch collector who still favored the intricacies of the manual movement. For many collectors, that was art and only the wealthiest of men could afford them. The benefit for Rolex was that the quartz movement was marketed for the everyman, so Rolex introduced the automatic to their line and fans began to flock. The Daytona became a hit and used movements supplied by Valjoux and Zenith, at first, constantly changing the watch before introducing an in-house movement to the timepiece.

Paul Newman

Paul Newman and the Daytona

Hollywood’s leading man was rugged and stylish. He was suave, handsome and he could tie a tie or fix an engine. His name was Paul Newman, and he was as synonymous with the racing circuit at NASCAR as he was with films in Hollywood.

In 1972, Rolex was still struggling to develop a fanbase for this model. They had just introduced the Daytona, and although things were about to pick up for them, the Daytona watch was considered a joke. The watch that now sells for thousands of dollars and far higher couldn’t even be sold for a couple of hundred at the time. That is until Paul Newman started wearing one and the Daytona started to become synonymous with racing.

In the racing season of 1972, Paul Newman put on his first Daytona, and he never took it off. Immediately, advertising execs at Rolex began to capitalize on Hollywood’s heartthrob wearing their failure on his wrist. Women wanted him and men wanted to be him. So much so, that if a man didn’t buy a Rolex Daytona because he wanted it, chances are his wife would. Thanks to Newman, the Daytona would become one of the most popular watches in the world.

Today, we often hear about the Paul Newman Daytona like it’s a model. Let’s set the record straight. It’s not. In fact, Newman owned a number of Daytona’s, and when one is referred to today as a Paul Newman, it’s because the style of the watch is the same as the one Paul Newman was most famous for wearing and the style Rolex capitalized on to advertise that you could be like Paul Newman. If you wore his watch.

By the 1980s, Rolex came up with a brilliant marketing scheme and sponsored a series of books written about Paul Newman. The first one, published in French and called ‘Paul Newman Les images d’une vie’ was a hit and more books soon followed. They made sure to heavily feature the watch and the one that stands out today is the Rolex Daytona Reference 6241 in stainless steel. It has a white dial and black subdials with a black outer track that borders the dial and matches the subdials.

In the end, it’s just a style, but it’s a style of watch that sells at auction for hundreds of thousands of dollars. Some changes have been made such as the addition of red markers and the red Daytona logo which Newman’s watch didn’t have, but in the end, the true Paul Newman Daytona is just a replica of the aesthetics in the most famous picture ever taken of Newman. The one in the books sponsored by Rolex.

The watch that once sold for under $300 and still wasn’t wanted was now flying off the shelves so quickly that it required a wait list because they couldn’t manufacture them as fast as they were selling. On average, buyers now had to wait for three years before they would receive their watch. By the mid-1980s, the Rolex Daytona was one of the most famous timepieces in the world, coveted and revered by collectors. The rarity caused by the waitlist only enticed more collectors to buy it, and much of that was thanks to Paul Newman and the faith he had in Rolex.

The Paul Newman style

The Rolex Movements

In the sixties, it wasn’t unusual for top watch manufacturers to use movements created by other brands. Rolex was no exception. At the time, the watch that would become the Daytona barely sold, and so the thought of investing in a movement for something lacking potential wasn’t even considered. Instead, Rolex used the Valjoux caliber 72 which was the most popular movement used in well-made chronographs at the time. Other than Omega’s Speedmaster, most of the big-name companies that Rolex competed with were using the same movement. It was well made, and Rolex relied on the aesthetics and design of the watch to separate them from the competition.

The Valjoux 72 worked well. It kept fairly accurate time, and it didn’t suffer from any design flaws. Most important, it was inexpensive and at the time, chronograph movements were difficult to make. It was a proven concept. The only flaw was that it was a manual movement which meant that the watch needed to be wound by hand.

Two Rolex Daytonas side by side

Rolex began to notice that chronograph wasn’t selling nearly as well as their competitors at Heuer, Breitling, and Omega. Both flying and Omega were using the same movement in their chronographs, but they were also far more popular due to Heuer’s visibility with Formula One and Breitling’s relationship with pilots. Rolex decided it needed to personalize the movement. Knowing it would be far too costly to create their own, they added some customizations such as a new Microstella variable inertia balance wheel and an overcoil from Breguet. They changed the name of the movement and branded it in advertising as the Rolex Cal. 722 and 72B. Then, always looking to improve, by the end of the 1960s, Rolex changed the hour recorder conveyor so that it worked better with the wheel. They did this by altering the shape and renamed the engine as the Rolex Cal. 722.1 Then, right before the dawn of the 1970s, they changed the movement again, increasing it from 18,000 VPH to 21,600 VPH.

The Rolex Cosmograph

Then in the 1970s, as Rolex began its rebrand calling the Cosmograph the Daytona, they began to look for a new movement that would work with their new watch and really separate it from the pack. Coincidentally, at the same time, Zenith was getting ready to launch its new El Primero, and Rolex partnered up with them to create its new watch: The Daytona.

Knowing they still had to differentiate themselves, Rolex immediately put in the balance wheel and overcoil from Breguet that worked so well for their watches. They changed the beats from 36,000 VPH to the 28,000 VPH they previously enjoyed. They also created a new design that used a vertical clutch to operate the chronograph.

In fact, it wasn’t until the new millennium that Rolex created their own in-house movement. A masterpiece that exceeded the quality of any movement used in their chronographs before, they introduced the Rolex Cal. 4130 that was completely re-imagined and different from anything else on the market.

The Rolex Daytona with a brown strap

The Daytona Lineup

When you tell someone that Rolex has produced a range of Daytona’s in their line, you can almost see the wheels turning as they try and figure out why they’ve only ever seen two of them. That’s because the design only changed twice. It’s what’s on the inside of the watch that has forever been improving.

Small changes have come since the Rolex 6239 was introduced with the movement of the tachymeter from dial to the bezel and some cosmetic changes to the watch. Rolex lowered the subdials, and more options became available such as the Paul Newman dial which is called the exotic dial.

The Rolex Daytona paired with a suit

The tachymeter was removed from the dial and added to the bezel of the watch, the subdials were lowered into the watch, and the Paul Newman dial became available for sale. Screw down pushers were added to some models as was the accompanying Oyster name and later some changes to the second hand and the fonts used in the branding. Other than that and some minor changes, the biggest differential between Daytona’s is the dial and subdial color, embellishment with diamonds and jewels and whether you opt for stainless steel, gold or another material. With each change to the movement, a new reference number was introduced as was the case when a small cosmetic change took place.

Modern Rolex Daytona advertisement

Conclusion

Today, the Rolex Daytona is available with so many options that you could own ten, and they would all be unique. The actual watch has barely changed over the years, but its reputation and value certainly has. What was once considered an unsellable watch is now one of the most sought-after timepieces on both the new and pre-owned market. It is one of the most counterfeited watches sold on eBay and other websites, and it can fetch a sale price from just a few thousand dollars upwards of hundreds of thousands based on the style, the caliber, and the look.

As far as the Daytona goes, collectors seem to prefer the vintage models. New watches are bought all the time as statement pieces and celebratory gifts. However, it’s the pre-owned models with the story or unique features that increase in value and have proven over the years to be a sound investment. To learn how to buy a watch, click here for our in-depth guide.

Next to the Submariner, the Rolex Daytona is the most recognized timepiece in the world and one that every race fan should have in his collection.

Do you own a Daytona?

In today’s interview, I talk to Antonio Centeno, the founder of Real Men Real Style where he helps men improve themselves in just about any way imaginable.

I first got in touch with Antonio, when I left a comment on one of his articles at the artofmanliness, and he was quick to reach out to me. We got along and soon thereafter we got on the phone. At the time, the Gentleman’s Gazette was a one man show, and he asked me:”Are you still doing all the stuff yourself?”. That got me thinking, and today we have a great team of editors, assistants and video editors that made GG what it is today…

That aside, Antonio has always had an open ear and was quick to help when I asked him for something. An therefore, it is with great pleasure that present to you today the man behind Real Men Real Style: Antonio Centeno

Sven Raphael Schneider: Antonio, welcome!

Antonio Centeno: Thank you, Raphael! Happy to be here.

SRS: Wonderful! Okay so, you have a really fascinating life story, and you’re a self-made man and a YouTube style icon. Just give us a little background about yourself.

AC: Sure, I grew up in West Texas in a trailer park out there, not much going on, not much style and after that, I went to college up in Mount Vernon, Iowa, small town, middle of nowhere and from there I joined the United States Marine Corp. I was fortunate enough to be an officer of Marines and at the end of 2003, after a fun vacation over in Iraq, I decided to get out and transitioned out of the Marine Corp. and lived in Ukraine for about a year, married my fiance at the time, now my wife. We’ve got four young children, and we just live here in Wisconsin but when I was in Ukraine, I was exposed to a culture that they really wear who they are, it’s the European culture, at least in that part of Ukraine, Russia, Belarus, I just found appearances matter a lot. In the Marine Corp. actually appearances matter a lot and so I started seeing this thing how appearances matter a lot and in these situations, and I looked around, seems like a lot of Americans don’t seem to believe that. We’re in a society that tells us this isn’t the case, so I kind of saw this amazing thing and then I moved on, forgot about it, went and got my business degree in UT. After I picked up my MBA, I got a job out here in Wisconsin. I was promptly fired, so I found myself in this opportunity, “Hey, I’m out of work. I only have one child at the time, moving my wife to the United States, might as well start a company!”. So I started an online custom clothier in 2007 called “A Tailored Suit“, the business still exists but now it’s an information portal.

SRS: That’s interesting! So you had this exposure to style in Ukraine basically, and so then you said “Hey, that’s interesting” and once you found yourself out of a job, was that the first thought that came to mind or did you kind of do some research, how did you end up with that business?

Antonio Centeno – Marine Corp

AC: Yeah, I looked around at various opportunities, and when I was in business school, I had a couple of problems. One of the things is, in Ukraine, I wanted a nice suit when I was getting married, and it was hard to find a nice suit. There were these 100 dollar, two hundred dollar Russian suits which fit you like squares but still, at the time, it can be a lot of money. Or I went into this Italian shop, and I looked at these, because you got a big disparity of incomes there, so you’ve got very cheap suits and then you have like $3000 suits, it was like a huge jump, there was nothing in the middle and when I put on that $3000 suit, couldn’t afford it but I was like “Wow, this thing is amazing!”. I didn’t feel that good in a suit since wearing my uniform, and so I saw the power of how a suit can make you feel. I really wish I would’ve had that, I ended up wearing a modified square suit for my wedding but a couple years later when I’m interviewing at MBA programs, I flew out, looked at Harvard, met with people at Harvard, met with people at Cornell. Cornell actually flew me out because I was looking at their Johnson Means business program, so I figured “I’m going to these Ivy League institutions, I need to look the part.” and I didn’t want to show up and look like some country bumpkin.

SRS: Okay, so what was your style at that time? Describe it to us.

Antonio wearing a bright yellow jacket

AC: Pretty typical American. I wear light colored baggy jeans, bright yellow Helly Hansen jacket, flannel tops, those were the same things I’d worn in college and my style had not changed in the decade. When I was 18, when I pieced together and looked around in 1994 on that college atmosphere was what I was still wearing in probably 2002-2003 and my wife she was always like “Well, he dresses very interesting.” but I felt I dressed just like the typical American guy but I did know the power of the uniform because I wore a uniform when I was in the Marine Corp., understand we paid attention to ranks, we looked at insignia, all these things we made a determination and so in the back of my mind, I knew it was real but I didn’t even know where to go to get this stuff really going. So that was, I think the start of A Tailored Suit, actually I went a little bit too far, looking back, when the business did not succeed because I wasn’t ready to fully commit, to buying a factory but also, there was a lot I had to learn and that’s really what that first company was for me, It was a learning vehicle. So I didn’t end up, I didn’t have this for my wedding but I did have this for those MBA interviews when I flew over there is I found a traveling tailor, right there in Kiev, it’s Imperial Tailors, they’re out in Moscow and in Kiev. So these guys focused on that part of the world and actually it was like, pretty interesting, all of their clientele was listed as all the presidents so at the time in Ukraine we had Kuchma. So it’s funny like I call them up and I’m like, I didn’t care about the price at that point, I had a little bit that I put aside and was ready to spend it. So this traveling tailors, he comes out to our apartment right there in Kiev. Probably doesn’t get too many calls to these areas but yeah, I bought a suit and three shirts and it fit me better than anything I could’ve bought locally off the rack and it fit me just as well as that $3000 suit and I only paid a $1200 at the time for that little packaging put together.

SRS: Not a lot of money for Kiev but it was worth it to you and it made a difference.

Antonio wearing flannel

AC: Actually, I felt like I got this great deal because I felt like I was able to replicate the feeling I got from that $3000 suit and I also got three shirts thrown in with that at 1/3 of the price. When I saw this, it just opened my eyes to the world of custom clothing. Wouldn’t it be cool if this is an awesome online business? Okay, opportunity seen, I trip over amazing opportunity, I get up like nothing happened, keep walking. Two years later, I think about this again in business school and I find another custom clothier, I’m going to UT, right there in Austin, Texas and I see this again and I”m like, you know I talk to the tailor, I bought him lunch multiple times, every time he was in town. He came back like once every couple months and I just picked his brain. I found out the guy had like a fourth-grade education, was only working half of the year and was making about half a million dollars.

SRS: That sounds pretty good right?

AC: What are you telling me, I’m getting this fancy degree, I’m about to go sell my soul for golden handcuffs and only get paid a $150,000 a year. If he can do this with a 4th-grade education, Jack was a really smart guy over at Noble House tailors. I remember he was even curious about “Hey, you want to buy my roller dice?” because it took him 35 years to build up 5000 customers and from my perspective, you could use the internet and you could get those 5000 customers in a period of just a couple years.

YouTube heavyweight, Antonio Centeno

SRS: A lot of times, people think “Where did you learn all of this?” I mean you said it yourself, you grew up in a trailer park and not being exposed to that so you didn’t have that but you still went and realized you can create content. How did you learn all that stuff and what can you tell others in a similar situation who are not too sure about what to do?

AC: I think the answer is right behind you, all those books I’m looking at right here. I mean, I’m a big believer of “A man needs to take time to educate himself and spend time thinking, reading and learning. There is just so much information out there. It’s funny, I talk with a lot of other style bloggers and people ask me “Do you ever take courses?” and I’m like “Yeah, I took enough courses to realize that that is just one path to learn” and so, I mean I’ve got a whole library, you’ve seen that, that hidden closet.

SRS: Oh yes, you like to read a lot of books just like I do. I was just in Florence and people walked up to me and they recognized me and asked a few questions and then they were like “One final question, the information on your website is unique, where do you get that from?” and I said From books and magazines, I have built this library and so they noticed because it really made us stand apart. If you dig a little deeper and you educate yourself, it’s basically an investment in yourself, you can produce great stuff.

Antonio Centeno – Real Men Real Style

AC: It’s really hard because we’re surrounded in a society and to some ways, we are on social media, I’m on social media for work but personally, I have no social media connected to my phone. My house, I have no computer, all of my business stuff stays here in the office. When I go home, I’m there. So I try to create these barriers which enable me when I come here, to focus in on and I’m going to steal this from Cal Newport, Deep Work. Being able to go in and I think that’s the key if you want to really create something the world’s going to take notice of, you’ve got to commit to that deep work of spending the time to focus in on yourself instead of doing all that busy work because no one’s going to, I mean, it’s cool that you got the inbox zero and you answered 50 emails today but did that really have a big impact. A project I’m currently working on is creating a new email sequence, an amazing one because I want people, when they sign up for my emails to be “wowed” and not just sold to which right now, I feel like our email sequence is a bit hard on sales and then I put them into a great broadcast sequence but broadcasting is something you got to do again and again so to be able to create something that is going to last like a book, it is a perfect example. Anyone that’s ever written a book realizes, it’s an all-consuming event especially if you write a great book and it’s something that any great writers from Stephen King to JK Rowling, they talk about how they have to separate themselves. I was just reading about Mark Twain, he basically was so isolated when he was writing “The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn” or “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer” , they literally had to blow a horn on this farm he was at in Upstate, New York to let him know he has been out there for so long in this isolated cabin.

SRS: When we started, there weren’t things out there. We looked into books because there wasn’t anything out there. Today, all the things we’ve learned over 15-20 years, we put into a product because we realize those were all the mistakes we made and ideally, we shouldn’t have to make them so if we just guide people in a way and give them the best solution to their problems, you can save a lot of time, money and get the same results that took us so long.

AC: I think that’s really enjoyable and when you get these emails from guys that use your courses or use your free information, both of us put out so much information that even if you’re in India and you’re making, let’s say a thousand dollars a month, it’s just not enough that you want to spend $500 on one of my courses. Or you can’t come out to StyleCon in Atlanta, Georgia, which is our conference. You could use all of my information and you could change your life and improve it and next time I’m out in Mumbai, we’ll be able to meet and we’ll be able to shake hands and talk like old friends which is really cool. I love it when, and you’ve had people recognize you, it’s amazing when you can talk to them like you start the conversation, not at point zero but it’s like they know, they’ve watched many of your video or read many of your articles and they can start at a very deep level and I just love those type of conversations.

Antonio Centeno, a proud father

SRS: I think just the name of your website, Real Men Real Style is not just about being authentic but also having a real connection and you started as a website but then you realized maybe you could create this real connection with the real world. So, together with Aaron Marino, another YouTube heavyweight, you decided to create a real life event. Tell us more about that and why you did it and what the goal of it is?

AC: Yeah and I appreciate that. I actually, for me, the real men real style was kind of a rejection of, I mean runways are interesting in the fashion world but I honestly still don’t understand them and how things move through that in that industry and I wanted to just be really clear with guys that I’m just a regular guy. I probably could have said regular men, regular style but it was too long, real just worked better but you’re exactly right I reached out to Aaron Marino and I just found that I really enjoyed speaking and talking with all of my peers but that only went so far because even on a group call, people are getting distracted, we’re not in the same place and I was already going to conferences and looked around and was like why isn’t there a conference that brings together my friends, the people that I really connect with? I always found when I went to these conferences, media expo, social media marketing world, infusioncon, it was only 5% of the people that I connect with. What if brought all of those people to my own conference and I think that’s the beauty of we do, there’s so many different, depending on who you want to be inspired by or who you want to go to for information. If somebody is interested more in classic style, they want to learn about black tie, white tie, they want to learn about the history of menswear, they go to your channel. If they want to learn about the history but also want to learn about the science, maybe the military history, they want to be immersed in very simple how to do videos but still may blow their mind like how to tuck in their shirt, they go to my channel. if they want something that’s a bit more fashion forward, they want something that’s going to be a bit more entertainment but still very educational, go check out Aaron Marino. There’s so may different options out there and that’s what I love about our industry.

SRS: Yeah, it’s not exclusive. Just because you like Antonio does not mean you cannot like Aaron. Ideally, you’d watch all of them and get something out of each of them and I think that’s good.

AC: My website does put a cookie on people’s computers that block your website so..

 SRS: Oh yeah, well thank you. Just listening to you talk about your business, you obviously have lots of systems in place, that’s great but for most people probably it sounds like that’s more than enough, you, on the other hand, may say “Well, maybe I can do something else” and you even have some side businesses, tell us more about that.

Antonio Centeno, wife and kids

AC: Sure! So I’ve got one program called High Speed Elite and basically this is a coaching program for business, it’s a business coaching program for military veterans only and I have two other partners with that. John Lee Dumas of Entrepreneur on Fire and Tom Morkes of Insurgent Publishing and the reason I did this, couple of reasons why I wanted to, I really loved my time in the Marine Corp. and I wanted something I could do to give back that I control so this coaching program is a great way to do that. The other one is, I wanted to partner and hang out with other veterans I respect so both John and Tom, I learned from all the time, amazing people. I’m happy to be able to support them, so that’s what I love about businesses when you make it fun; you’re able to do good and you’re able to learn and sharpen your own sword. I also run a business with my wife called Bilingual Kids Rock which we help families create systems so that they can raise bilingual children and my wife has a podcast with that, she puts out a lot of content, so that one’s more of a passion project. We have four young children who are trilingual, they speak Ukranian, they speak Russian, they speak English and we’ve tried bringing in Spanish but it’s hard with all these other activities.

SRS: That’s amazing! Three languages and it seems like you take everything that you’ve experienced, the style that you were exposed to, the military, children and languages and you make it into a business to help others which is amazing.

AC: Well, you can approach it from a very selfish perspective too. Ayn Rand, when she wrote the virtue of selfishness, I really enjoyed that book back in college because it showed that even when you do good, oftentimes you can do good but you can do it in your own way so that you get, the value I get from creating that content is that we crystalize our thoughts and I’m able to put this out there once and I can even revisit what my wife has written or what we’ve written at bilingual kids rock. I’ve learned a lot more about how languages develop in children and because we’ve also got this platform, we can reach out to language experts who want to come in and interview with my wife so that they can get in front of her audience. The selfish thing for us is that we can ask very specific questions about our kids with world leaders on that particular subject.

SRS: A free consultation basically,

AC: Exactly! Not just free, we get paid for it!

SRS: So living in Wisconsin, your style is probably not in a three-piece suit everyday. Today, you’re wearing like a denim shirt, what would you say are your five staple wardrobe items that you couldn’t live without?

AC: You know, I’m pretty casual. I’ll take this during the winter so sweaters. I have a great collection of sweaters and it’s funny. I had them, the Aran sweater market over in Ireland. I had them as a sponsor awhile back and the best thing I got from them was all these sweaters and I love sweaters here in Central Wisconsin. The other ones for me are thermals. I just really like simple things but I like them to be the best and I’ve got this pair of thermals on and they’re like butter, it is awesome. Another thing, nice socks, I used to have those tube socks all the time. I actually have nice pairs of wool socks that feel great and the only thing with them is I like to wear them around the house now and I’m always worried I”m going to get them snagged and tear a hole. I have to admit, I wear jeans quite a bit and I wear sports jackets. I’ve got a lot of my sports jackets from suit supply, they just fit me really well off the rack but I’ve got a number of them custom-made as well.

SRS: Okay, so there’s a set of questions we always ask people, just a quick yes or no. OXFORDor DERBY?

AC: Oxford

SRS: Flannel or Worsted?

AC: Flannel

SRS: Necktie or Bow tie?

AC: Necktie

SRS: Belt or suspenders?

AC: Belt

SRS: barrel cuff or french cuff?

AC: Barrel cuff

SRS: Undershirt or no undershirt?

AC: Undershirt

SRS: Off the rack or custom?

AC: I would go with off the rack

SRS: It’s great, you have the figure for it and it works.

AC: Yes, if you find the right brand, it’s just a great deal.

SRS: Totally and for me it’s very difficult because my shoulders are so much lower. Depends on your body, depends on the person, you always have to start somewhere. Ready to wear is great because you can see it right there and feel it, you can say I don’t like it. If you go custom sometimes, you can just envision it, and then it’s not what you thought it would be and it can be very costly when you make mistakes. So Antonio, thank you very much for your time and I think it was very insightful but where do you see yourself five years down the line?

AC: That’s a great question. I would say I know that time waits for no man. I’ll be almost 50 years old at that point so I would like to be in a place where I can travel more and spend more time with the people whose lives I feel like I’m lightly touching. I would like to go deeper with the guys and the women that are interested in talking more about this so I would see myself traveling and making myself more available maybe in cities that my audience will vote where we go to actually engage with people. I think StyleCon, too bad it’s only once a year. I would like something where every couple months we’re hosting an event, may be a bit smaller but a one-day event that just have a deeper connect with people in New York, Los Angeles or Milan or London. I would love to be able to go back to Mumbai; I love Mumbai. Places, where we could reach a global audience in person, would be great.

SRS: That’s fantastic, that’s a good approach. You obviously know and love what you do.

AC: Thank you, Raphael. I appreciate your friendship and looking forward to seeing you out in Atlanta.

SRS: Absolutely, I’ll be there! If you want to meet Antonio or me or all the other guys, Aaron Marino, Andy from The Primer, Baron from Effortless Gent and Brock from the Modest Man, Tanner from masculine Style and many others, you should check out the website at men’s style con, it’s something for you. I enjoyed it immensely last year and I’ll be there for sure!

AC: Yeah, I wanted to create a conference which didn’t suck and it’s my excuse to throw a three-day party, to hang out with my friends and hey, cost are covered, I like it!

SRS: Perfect! So, to parties that don’t suck!

AC: Exactly, exactly! Thank you for having me!

SRS: Thanks a lot!

Like a rough sea, Peaky Blinders captures the audience in its crashing waves and drowns you in the grittiness of post-war England. This isn’t your typical crime drama. There are no flashy suits and silk shirts. This is Birmingham. This is the pit of London. This is the black hole and underbelly of the beast that sucks you into the abyss. Like any part of organized crime, once you end up in its grasp, there is no climbing your way out from beneath its treachery.

The monochromatic men of Peaky Blinders with touches of color throughout

Peaky Blinders, a gang that’s feared and yet revered by its community, led by the nefarious Thomas Shelby, those around him almost have a limerence towards him and yet they fear him all the while. There’s a poise about Shelby, a subtle confidence that lurks beneath his tweed and flannel attire designed for Britain’s inclement weather and the harsh circumstances of the 1920s. While stateside Mafiosi were known for their panache and as bold sartorialists, Shelby’s insipid blend of monochromatic apparel hits a home run because of its timeless appeal and because he uses clothing to showcase his authority over the struggling community in a way that makes you loathe him while revering at the same time.

The Real Peaky Blinders

The show, based loosely on true accounts, focuses on the lives of London’s criminal underground where a subculture of violent miscreants known as Peaky Blinders and Sloggers controlled much of Birmingham’s economy. A common street gang, these hoodlums were known for their vicious attacks and use of melee weapons. Believed to originally be a single gang and later a generic term for youth in the area, they were known for their style which included the peaked flat caps, ties, and bell-bottoms. They often used brass buttons on their jackets and just as today’s gangs are known for their colors, the Peaky Blinders became identifiable for their elegant style in the slums of London.

Tommy Shelby in a navy pinstripe suit with black overcoat

The Show’s Version

A gritty epic set in 1919’s Birmingham, England, Peaky Blinders follows the lives of its members and its enterprising and pugnacious leader Thomas Shelby.

Known for their violence, the gang attracts the attention of Chief Inspector Chester Campbell, an investigator with the Royal Irish Constabulary, who is sent from Belfast to clean up the streets of Birmingham. Currently filming its third season, Peaky Blinders has received critical acclaim and is one show we think you’ll thoroughly enjoy because the music of the series paired with the unique aesthetics are second to none.

A pop of color in the tie is all you need to take the outfit from drab to fab

Thomas Shelby

Tommy Shelby, played by Cillian Murphy, is about as violent as they come. Known as a stylish, yet muted kingpin, he rules Peaky Blinders with an iron fist and a sophisticated charm that makes the eponymous gangster a hero to some and a savage monster to all.

With an incessant desire to move up in the world and the community, Shelby was a soldier in the First World War, which drastically altered his demeanor and temperament. Known for being a cheerier bloke before his service, any kindness exhibited before his tour was quickly overshadowed by a disillusioned and determined objective to become the most feared boss in England’s underworld.

Anti Savile Row Establishment style that’s timeless and elegantly casual

Known for his uniquely dapper style, he wears a lot of tweed in the city, mostly as a three piece suit or without a coat but a waistcoat, but only occasionally with a tie knot. Nevertheless, he stands out against the rags of the men who live in the impecunious slums of Birmingham. The only addition of color is perhaps a pastel tie or striped shirt, which he always wears with a white detachable collar. His sleek undercut hair style is extreme, yet they are popular even today.

Shelby isn’t alone, however. His brothers and comrades in arms are equally dapper, albeit not always as stylish as their patriarch. It’s this sartorial element in the show that helps to capture the authenticity of what was once an actual organization known for its fashionable members.

Although set in Britain their style is not at all related to the one of an English gentleman. They mixed rougher, heavier wool suits with single cuff, detachable collar suits which were more typically worn for business. However, this quirky mix underlines works so well because the Shelbys are no gentleman. Instead, they are gangsters who want to use their clothing to underline their status in the community while they want to separate themselves from the traditional upper-class establishment.

A bolder bengal stripe on the shirt with detachable collar is traditionally the wrong choice for his kind of suit, but it works for him

How To Dress Like Peaky Blinders

Dressing like Shelby or any other member of his faction is far easier than some of the bolder suits and outfits worn by other Gentlemen of Style we’ve covered like Harvey Specter, Hannibal and even the cast of Downton Abbey.

Although Downton Abbey’s wardrobe is relatively uniform, the benefit of replicating Shelby’s style is that it is far more appropriate for modern daily life. While the Crawley’s wear white and black tie throughout much of the show, today a gentleman can easily get away with British countryside clothing at the office or cocktail party when he would be dressed inappropriately in a tailcoat or tuxedo. As far as daily wear goes, the influential styles of Peaky Blinders is much simpler to pull off due to its British sense of uniformity but also, it’s versatility for various codes of dress.

Tweed Cap

Although Shelby works towards reaching the upper echelons of society, he still opts to wear the newsboy and flat caps that were known as a working man’s hat. Today, these hats remain quite stylish and are worn year round in various colors, styles and materials. Hence, the first hallmark of a Shelby is the tweed cap either in herringbone Harris tweed or a grey Donegal tweed that has a razor blade attached to the front left so it can be conveniently used as a weapon with the right hand. If you’d try to do that, chances are you’d probably cut your hands. Therefore, skip the blade but tweed caps are definitely a must.

Classic British countryside apparel on all the men in Peaky Blinders

Color Spectrum & Patterns

Forget having to coordinate colors, Peaky Blinders is all about monochrome attire. Grey three-piece suits and black overcoats are the norm. For a touch of color, a muted orange tie or the use of a pocket square with a pop of color is about as fashion-forward as any of the male characters get. The benefit of this uniformity is that men with limited style experience can adopt this attire and use it as a stepping stone to build a more advanced wardrobe.

Vintage stripes, houndstooth, and thick glen checks are exactly the patterns you want for your Peaky Blinder inspired outfits. The spinning of yarns wasn’t as advanced in the 1920’s and hence the fabrics were much thicker and the patterns more unusual and coarser. You cannot replicate that look with modern cloth unless you go with tweed.

A classic look for Shelby he adds a casualness by forgoing the tie

Tweed Suits and Slacks

Your best bet to recreate the look is to invest in a vintage three piece suit with slim lapels, narrow cut shoulders and slim trousers are exactly what you want to clone Thomas Shelby’s look. Also, make sure to go with a seasoned pocket watch and watch chain in brass. Stay clear from contemporary fabrics because they are too lightweight, and they lack the type of drape you see in the show. If vintage is not an option for you, a custom made version in tweed is pretty much your only option.

The muted Bengal pinstriped shirt adds subtle panache to the outfit

The Suits

First and foremost, the 3-piece herringbone or Donegal tweed suit is the first outfit worth adopting. You can find new ones fairly easily, but since they’re so popular in British country attire, it’s also remarkably simple to find well-made vintage suits on eBay and in thrift stores.  The cost savings of buying vintage tweed is huge, and you can use the money you saved to purchase other items that can add to the collection. Teh problem is, contemporary cuts are very different from the Peaky Blinders, and while most people on the street will not see the difference, every connoisseur can spot the deviations in cut and style immediately.

Peaky Blinders

You can wear it with matching pants or move into a separate and wear the jacket as combination. To add a touch of creativity to an otherwise dull suiting, opt for an odd vest.

Shelby in a pinstriped shirt with a detachable stiff collar

Most of the suits seen on the show are made by Keith Watson. Formerly a tailor on Savile Row in the 60s, he’s well known for his traditional cutting techniques. However, any decent tailor and even MTM companies should easily be able to make you a tweed suit that resembles this classic 1920s country look.

The Classic Shirts

As far as shirts go, you sometimes see a white dress shirt with single cuffs for cufflinks and a stiff, starched, white  detachable collar. However, you can see the shelbys more often in all sorts of striped shirts. Although difficult to find these days, British legal outfitters still carry these fancy striped shirts for detachable collars, and since it is such a unique item, you definitely have to get one of those.  A shirt with an attached collar simply has a very different look and won’t suffice.

The Overcoat

Tommy Shelby loves to wear a black single breasted overcoat made of heavy wool cloth, black velvet collar, and peaked lapels. It’s similar to a chesterfield, but it lacks the notched lapels. Stylistically, this city overcoat does not work at all with a tweed suit, but Shelby is a villain who has no class, and his combinations are a reflection of that. If you want to exude a similar style, then go for it. Otherwise, maybe a covert coat is the better choice for real life outfits.

The Boots

A pair of black above ankle length captoe oxford style boots in black with leather soles are an absolute must for a Peaky Blinders outfit. Make sure they are not spit polished but rugged with some patina and a bit of dirt if you want to recreate the authentic look.

Shelby in a muted outfit with textural components like the grenadine tie and satin lapel on his topcoat

Cillian Murphy in his quintessential oversized newsboy cap

Ties & Bow Ties

Arthur sometimes wears finely printed bow ties made of English silk and at times, Tommy wears a tie. Even though it is Peaky Blinders style to wear three-piece suit without neckwear, it will always make you look amateurish to do so. Therefore, try to avoid that look and get yourself a nice tie or bow tie.

Arthur – Tommy Shelbys older brother who is more reckless than smart

Conclusion

Peaky Blinders and its leader Tommy Shelby are not the kind of men worth idolizing. The fact is they weren’t gentlemen. They were ruffians who did whatever it took to get ahead, regardless of the law. Why they are undoubtedly cool, their sense of style exudes the lack of knowledge, and they utilize their clothes to show the world that they made it without realizing their faux-pas.

Nevertheless, they are much better dressed than the average man on the street today, and although we do not recommend to wear three-piece suits without neckwear, Peaky Blinders is definitely worth watching.

This article was written by Sven Raphael Schneider and J.A. Shapira

If you like this piece, make sure to check out our other TV-series and movie clothes reviews.

iCall it a trend, a lifestyle or a hobby, but one thing is certain; Everyday carry has become a hot discussion amongst men around the world.

When Bernard Capulong started his blog about what he liked to carry, little did he realize that the site would rapidly grow and soon he’d have an entire staff working to bring fresh content to their site.

I sat down with Bernard to get an idea of what’s trending and what EDC essentials are being carried by well-dressed men.

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What’s interesting, is that a vast majority of the men who frequent Capulong’s site are looking for tactical items such as the kind soldiers and police officers might carry. Matte black knives and multi-tools tend to be some of the most popular, followed by tactical flashlights and backpacks with military webbing.

Not exactly what we think of when we discuss the men who read Gentleman’s Gazette. So I probed and soon we began talking about the essentials that might apply to a more discerning and dapper gentleman who wears a suit to the office and a blazer and bow tie at home.

The EDC Essentials

There are three essential items that almost every man carries.

1. Cellphone
2. Wallet
3. Keys

After that, it tends to be a mix. Whatever they happen to need that day or items that serve them well in their job or their lifestyle.

Some men might opt to carry a little and others a lot. So where do they store them? We know that filling out suit pockets with heavy items can harm the suit and stretch the fabric. So here are a few bags that you might find can help keep all of your EDC gear in an organized fashion.

Briefcases & Messengers

The distinguished gentleman has traditionally carried an attache case or another briefcase. The modern gentleman often uses the messenger bag. If you wear a suit during the day, a pack like the one listed below isn’t going to cut it. However, a nice leather messenger bag or briefcase certainly will.

Must Have EDC Essentials

There are three essential items every modern gentleman should have with him at all times.

1. A good wallet
2. A reliable cell phone
3. A handsome keychain

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Wallet

The wallet has long been used as a method of carrying cheques, bills, coins and credit cards. Today, men are using their wallets as fashionable accessories. Whether you prefer a classic billfold, a slim sleeve or a coat wallet that slides neatly into your breast pocket, there is an extensive range of wallets available for the discerning gentleman. Here are two wallets we recommend based on their quality, heritage and our personal experience using them firsthand.

Ettinger Sterling Collection Purple Billfold – $273

My personal choice for daily carry, the Ettinger Sterling Collection has a selection of boldly-conservative billfolds for even the most dapper gentleman. All of the wallets are available in various formats and options. Handmade in London, Ettinger is globally recognized as one of the leading wallet manufacturers since 1934 and holds a Royal Warrant for its exquisite leather goods. Click here to get the same wallet I carry.

Bellroy Leather Card Sleeve Wallet- $54

Bellroy is another leading name in the world of men’s wallets. Known especially for their slim wallets, Bellroy is an excellent choice for men seeking a less expensive wallet, but one that will last years to come. Click here to buy one.

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Phone

A cell phone has become a staple of everyday life. The most used item in EDC, the smartphone is a lifeline for emergencies, a camera for memories and a database of information. We can check email, send instant messages and even do our banking with it. With millions of apps, there is no limit to what can be achieved via cell phone. Of course, the only limit is what we place upon ourselves. For that, take a look at our cell phone etiquette guide. Here are the two cellphones we recommend:

Apple iPhone 6

As an Apple user, I carry an iPhone, iPad, and a Macbook. It’s all I use. The Apple iPhone needs no introduction. It’s a leading, tech-driven device that’s consistently ranked at the top of its market since inception. This is one phone worth your consideration. Visit your local mobile store to get the best possible price.

The HTC One Smartphone

HTC One (M8)

There’re Apple fans, and then there are Android fans. Our editor-in-chief Sven Raphael Schneider is a big fan of pure Android (he uses the Nexus 6P) but if you want to spend less, the HTC One (M8) may be a good compromise. It’s sturdy construction, combined with good battery life and lack of bloatware (useless, preinstalled apps)  make it a good choice.

Keys

Keys are a necessity. We use them to drive our cars, enter and lock our homes and gain access to a variety of other things like offices, boats, cabins, even bicycles. What a gentleman hangs his keys on is often a direct reflection of who he is. Is the keychain a plastic beer can? Perhaps a rubber Homer Simpson? Maybe it’s a simple rhodium key ring. A lot can be told by the accessories a man chooses. Here are two key holders we recommend for very different gents.

Keyport Slide – $59.95

Discreet, packable and easy to slip into a pocket or a bag, the Keyport Slide Pro is a sleek little device that’s roughly the same size as a box of Tic Tacs. It holds six of your most important keys (standard, high-security, chipped auto) and comes with a built-in flashlight and pen. No more bulges, jingling as you walk or keys scratching you or your clothing. For the modern gentleman, this handy tool is perfect if you’re a guy on the go. Click here to get one.

Dunhill key case

Dunhill Key Case – $191

For the more distinguished gentleman, we recommend a key hanger like this one from Dunhill. Similar to a leather wallet, it opens up to reveal hooks that hold your keys. It too protects your pockets and limits the jingles and poking. Easy to slide into a coat pocket or a briefcase, it’s the perfect accessory to carry your keys in when you wear a suit to work. Click here to get one for yourself.

Recommended EDC Essentials

Aside from the basics, there is a small selection of EDC essentials that we highly recommend all gentlemen carry with them in addition to the keys, wallet, and phone.

1. A wristwatch
2. A business card case
3. A handkerchief
4. A fine writing instrument

If you don’t plan to carry any of the items listed below, at the very least, pack the following in your EDC kit.

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Wrist Watch

Every gentleman should have a wrist watch. It doesn’t matter if it’s a $30 watch or a $30,000 watch, having one on your wrist is not just an accessory to your attire, but it means you can quickly check the time without having to take out your phone. In restaurants, meetings and on dates, taking out your phone is catastrophically rude. However, a quick glance at the watch is far more discreet and in many cases, even considered appropriate. Especially if you have somewhere else to be. For a detailed look at our top recommend watches check out the following guides:

Inexpensive Watch Guide
Low budget watch guide
Medium budget guide
Big budget watch guide
Highest budget watch guide

Business Card Case

If you work in any professional capacity, chances are you have a business card. Heck, my grandfather who has been retired for the last thirty years even has a calling card. The business card deserves respect, and so does the person you’re giving it to. If you’ve ever traveled to Asia for work, you know that when someone presents you with a business card, it’s done so formally. The least we can do is slide it out of a beautiful case instead of scrounging around for it in the depths of our wallet, or worse, our pockets.

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Fort Belvedere Business Card Case – $150

For many years, I’ve collected calling card cases. I probably have 15 or 20 of them, but for the most part, they sit in a drawer in my office, untouched. Today, the only case I carry is this one from Fort Belvedere. I promise you, that if it’s in your budget, you won’t regret getting it. It is, all things considered, the most beautiful card case I have ever seen and I often receive compliments from business associates and strangers when they see me pull it out. Take a look here.

Handkerchief

You don’t see them very often anymore. Perhaps that’s why I am often complimented when people see mine. See, although handkerchiefs have a longstanding history of being used to blow your nose, mine rarely – if ever – comes out for that purpose. Usually, it’s for my kids noses. I’m partially joking. A handkerchief is useful for many things.

• It can help quickly rub a scuff off your shoe.
• It can quickly dry a spill when there’re no napkins around.
• It can be used as a napkin.
• It can be used to open the door of a public restroom when the man in front of you neglected to wash his hands.
• Or to dry your hands when that restroom is out of paper towel.
• It can dab the sweat from your forehead or your hands.
• To apply pressure to a wound or as a small tourniquet during an emergency.
• But most importantly, it can be given to a lady or your child when she’s crying.
• Of course, it also helps when you have a wicked cold and run out of tissue in a public place. Sure, it’s icky, but it’s better than accidentally blowing a snot bubble while introducing yourself to a new client.

I’m often asked what the difference between a handkerchief and a pocket square is. The general rule of thumb is a handkerchief will be solid white and made of cotton or Irish linen. A pocket square is anything else. Even if you prefer one-time use kleenex to blow your nose, a handkerchief in your back pocket may come in handy at time.

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Fine Writing Instrument

Why carry a pen? Because they’re useful daily and in the event of an emergency. Here are just some of the uses for carrying a pen:

• Signing checks
• Filling out forms
• Taking the phone number of someone you fancy
• Punching out a car window in an emergency
• Writing down particulars after a car accident
• Taking notes at a meeting
• Or just signing the credit card slip from dinner

There are numerous reasons to carry a pen, but only two reasons for carrying a fine writing instrument.

1. They are a beautiful accessory that will match your attire and personality.
2. They are more comfortable to write with and work far more consistently.

As far as what types of pens to carry, we recommend you have two. A fountain pen for you to use and a ballpoint or rollerball pen that you can lend out when someone asks if you have a pen they can borrow. This way they won’t damage the nib on your fountain pen. Click here to read our in-depth guide on fountain pens.

Pelikan Souveran M800 Fountain Pen

Pelikan Souveran M800 Fountain Pen – $519

An exquisitely beautiful fountain pen that performs flawlessly, this is our top pick because it compares equally to the Montblanc Meisterstuck and yet it costs significantly less money. Pelikan has long been a favorite brand of the editors and staff at Gentleman’s Gazette, and it’s because of the quality, the craftsmanship, and the aesthetic appeal. Click here to get one.

Waterman Expert Fountain Pen in Taupe

Waterman Expert – $94

I love Pelikan pens and own a few, but I carry the Waterman Expert in my EDC kit because it’s less expensive and I don’t have to worry as much if it gets misplaced or stolen. Still a stunning writing instrument, I find it very comfortable to use, and it works consistently every time I pull it out. Click here to buy one for yourself.

Kaweco Sport – $25

The Kaweco Sport is a tiny little thing, but when posted, it’s sizeable enough that even those with larger hands can comfortably write with it. Intended as a pocket pen, this is what I carry with me when I’m running out in a pair of chinos and a polo shirt. It slips effortlessly into your pant pocket and doesn’t bulge or poke you. It really is a neat little pen for quick outings without a bag or a proper pen pocket. The best part is, it consistently works. Click here to get one.

The Montblanc Starwalker Ballpoint Pen

Montblanc Starwalker Ballpoint Pen – $890

Even though I rarely write with it, since it’s my only ballpoint, I want it to be a statement piece. Ballpoint pens are ideal for people who are left-handed over a rollerball because the ink dries far quicker and you won’t be left with a stain on the palm of your hand and a smudge on the paper. Obviously, you don’t need to spend $890 on a pen, but if you want a beautiful pen to lend out that matches the rest of your accessories, this one is well worth using. I also particularly like this pen because it writes smoother than any other ballpoint I’ve tried and it looks great on my desk. I should note that I did not buy this pen. It was sent to me by the wonderful people at Darakjian Jewelers to review for our guide on ballpoint pens which you can read by clicking here. That or click here to get the pen.

Cross Townsend Rollerball pen

Cross Townsend Rolling Ball Pen – $94

Favored by the White House and the official signing pen for the President of the United States, the Cross Townsend is a beautiful writing instrument that’s also quite reasonably priced. A consistent ink flow and its stunning looks are the two reasons we choose to recommend it. Not to mention that it’s a favorite of many pen collectors around the world. Click here to get one.

Popular EDC Essentials

On the advice of Bernard Capulong from EverydayCarry.com and after thoroughly perusing his website and checking other sources, we’ve curated this list of EDC essentials that men from around the world are clearly adopting as part of their kit. Whether you choose to carry any of them, or all of them is completely up to you. We think many of them have their uses.

Pocket Knife

The pocket knife is something your grandfather probably carried with him. It has many uses, both indoors and out.

Opinel No 9 Carbon Steel Knife

Opinel Pocket Knife – $13

I carry an Opinel No 9 Carbon Steel knife in my EDC kit. I’ve used it for everything from opening parcels to cutting rope at the cabin. I taught my eldest son to whittle wood with it, cut an apple on a picnic for my daughter and shortened a tensor bandage when it was too long. There is no shortage of things that can be done with a pocket knife. During our research, it was evident most men prefer a more tactical, military-grade knife that’s serrated, but if you just want to keep it at the bottom of the bag for the odd use and don’t plan to be fighting off bears and terrorists with it, this $13 knife from France will surely do the trick. Click here to get the same knife I use.

Baladéo Laguiole Folding Pocket Knife with Corkscrew

Baladéo Laguiole Folding Pocket Knife w/ Corkscrew – $20

Another inexpensive, yet lovely French pocket knife with a wooden handle, this handcrafted Laguiole knife comes with a handy corkscrew. That’s certainly a perk if you ask us. Click here to buy it.

Battery Charger

A battery charger can be a lifesaver when your cellphone or tablet is on its final bar, and you’re expecting an urgent email or call. If you’ve ever had your cell phone die before you got home or to the office to charge it, you know how important a power bank can be.

Xoopar Squid Mini Power Bank – $54

The Squid is the power bank I carry in my own EDC kit. It fits both Android and Apple devices and has two ports which allow me to charge two devices at the same time. Pure genius. It’s small and compact and comes with a fabric sleeve that neatly holds the device and the cord. To recharge the bank, simply plug it into the USB port on your computer. Click here to get one.

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Anker Astro 2nd Gen

This is the top pick from EverydayCarry.com, and although we haven’t personally tested it, we trust the guys on their team. Not only that, but it has very positive reviews online. According to our research, it’s the most cutting edge power bank on the market, with various features other chargers don’t have. Depending on your phone, you can get multiple charges out of it, and Anker claims it’s the fastest working charger available. Click here to get one.

Lighter

Even if you don’t smoke, having a quality torch lighter in your EDC is a very good idea. It can be used to light a fire while camping, toast a cigar for your boss, make a smoke signal if your plane crashes or just loan to someone who needs to light their cigarette. Not only that, but I can’t tell you how many birthdays I’ve been to where they couldn’t find a lighter or match for the cake.

S.T. Dupont Ligne 2 Lacquer Lighter in Black and Gold – $1,555

If you are an avid cigar smoker, or just view the lighter as a wardrobe accessory, this exquisite lighter from the renowned French company S.T. Dupont is fit for a king. Of course, you can find less expensive lighters from S.T. Dupont, but why would you bother? This lighter is gorgeous. Click here to buy one.

Xikar Executive II Lighter

Xikar Executive – $29

Since I’m not an executive, and I need to eat and pay my mortgage, I can’t afford to spend $1500 on a lighter. Instead, I carry the far more reasonable, but still quite attractive Executive II lighter from Xikar, which I received as a gift awhile back from the good folks at CheapHumidors.com. As far as lighters go, I have many. This one is simply my favorite because it always works. The flame is adjustable, the lighter is masculine, and it’s slim enough that it slips into my pocket without bulging. I highly recommend it. Click here to buy one.

Lip Balm

Almost a requirement if you live in a colder climate, lip balm helps to protect and heal your lips when chapped. If you reside in a cold climate, it’s an essential part of your EDC during the winter months.

DR Harris Lipbalm

D.R. Harris Lip Balm – $39.99

I am often asked why I spend $40 on my lip balm. The only answer I can give people is “try it”. Then they see for themselves. If you care about the ingredients in your products and the quality of the product itself, then you’ll love this lip balm from the oldest pharmacy in England. D.R. Harris makes some exceptional products, and this is one of them. Click here to buy it.

Nivea Lip Balm for Men – $7.49

If you don’t want to spend $40 on lip balm, consider Nivea. The well-respected company has created this lip balm, especially for their male clientele. Its fragrance-free formula nourishes and protects lips adding the necessary moisture to already chapped lips to help them heal faster. Click here to get a stick.

Notebook

If you’re going to carry a pen as part of your EDC, you might as well keep a notepad with you as well. Notepads vary in quality and size so we recommend thin pads that can easily be stored.

Moleskine – $11

Moleskine notebooks are well known and highly regarded in the publishing industry as well as the marketing and advertising industries. They are well made, easy to find, and many users actually refuse to use other notebooks after trying Moleskine products. I always carry a few of them with me, and they often come in handy for jotting down notes, phone numbers, and messages. Click here to get one.

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Rite in the Rain – $16.97

Another item we haven’t personally tested that was recommended by the guys at EverydayCarry.com, these notebooks are just too cool not to mention. Just as the name implies, these are all-weather notebooks that you can write on while it’s raining. The Field-Flex cover is designed to take the rigors of battle in all weather conditions. Highly useful in emergency situations or if your job requires to you take notes in inclement weather. Click here to buy one.

Tide To Go Liquid Stain Remover – $9.99

If you’re as big of a klutz as I am, or if you have small sticky-fingered children, you’ll want a Tide-to-Go stick nearby. If you have kids, you know your finest shirts and brand new clothes are like magnets for stains. With a simple application of the stick, you can comfortably go the day knowing that the would-be stain has been treated and is gone forever. Then, when you finally get home, simply wash the clothes following the directions on the tag. It really is that simple and for me, it’s worked every time. Click here to get it.

Earphones

Headphones are superlative, but they take up space and unless you’re an audio engineer, a small and compact set of buds will do just fine for listening to music on your phone. Perfect for the public transit rider, the traveling executive or the athletic jogger, a pair of quality earbuds will be the difference between a boring commute and a break from the stress of the world.

Monster iSport Wireless In-Ear Headphones – $119.95

The ones that come standard with your cell phone are great, but the cord takes up space, gets tangled and isn’t always comfortable to wear. Instead, consider a pair of Monster iSport Earbuds that are designed with active people in mind. The wireless, Bluetooth earbuds are sweat resistant and can be worn during inclement weather. The sound is about as good as it gets for a wireless set of buds, but why they’re so great for EDC kits is that they take up virtually no room and connect with the push of a button. When we did our in-depth guide on headphones, Monster sent over a pair to test and of all the earbuds I tested, these were my personal favorite. They still remain a part of my EDC and are worn almost daily. Click here to get a pair.

Cigar Cutter

If you’re a cigar smoker, even on a casual basis, having a cutter is a fairly essential piece of everyday carry. You never know when you’ll happen to pass by a tobacconist or a cigar lounge. Not to mention you can look like the office hero when your boss tries to light his cigar and can’t find his cutter. Maybe he’ll even offer you a stick and talk about your new promotion.

Palio cigar cutter in burlwood

Palio Cigar Cutter – $59.95

As far as cutters go, there are the basic metal ones you get for $5 at the tobacconist. Heck, I can’t count the number of cheap guillotine cutters that I’ve received for free with a box of cigars. However, if you enjoy carrying the finest accessories, consider the same Palio cutter I carry. Made from burlwood with a strong lacquer, this elegant cutter is precise and sharp. It comes with a lifetime warranty, can cut up to a 60 ring gauge cigar and is contoured so you can use it as a cigar rest when you don’t want to share the germ-infested communal ashtray. Click here to get the same one I carry.

Multi-Tool

Considered an essential by many, the multi-tool is literally just that, a tool that has a multitude of applications. If you choose to carry one, here are a couple worthy of your attention.

Gerber Dime – $16.83

One of the leaders in knives and multitools, the Gerber Dime is a compact and convenient butterfly opening device with 10 tools including needle nose-spring pliers, a wire cutter, a fine edge blade, a retail package opener, scissors, a medium flat screwdriver, a crosshead screwdriver, a bottle opener, tweezers and a file. It’s condensed in size and compact enough to fit in your pocket. It’s the perfect multitool for men working outdoors or in manual labor positions. Click here to get one.

Leatherman Signal – $120

Significantly more expensive than the Gerber Dime, the Signal has 19 tools instead of 10 and is made from 420 high carbon stainless steel with a diamond-like coating to prevent it from corrosion and scratches. The compact multi-tool comes with needlenose pliers, regular pliers, 154CM replaceable wire cutters, 154CM replaceable hard-wire cutters, a wire stripper, 420HC combo knife, a saw, hammer, awl w/ thread loop, can opener, bottle opener, 1/4″ hex bit driver, a bit driver, 1/4″ box wrench, a carabiner, 3/16″ box wrench, a safety whistle, ferrocerium rod, and a diamond coated sharpener. Perfect for the professional who needs it or the outdoor survivalist. Click here to get one today.

Flashlight

More and more men are carrying flashlights as part of their everyday carry kit. We’re taught from a young age that we should always keep an emergency flashlight at home in case of emergencies or a power outage. However, in recent years with the regularity of terrorist attacks, active shooters, and other emergencies, many men are taking to carrying a flashlight with them. Not only can it be used to light your way when the power goes out, but it can be used as a weapon if you have to fend off an attacker, by shining it in their eyes to blind them or by using it to strike them. While we hope you’ll never have to use it in an emergency, it’s still very useful for lighting your way home, helping a neighbor find their missing cat or giving your child an extra bit of comfort at night while they sleep.

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SureFire G2X Pro – $88.43

I don’t carry a flashlight with me. I have the one built-in to my iPhone and for me, that’s been enough. However, at home, we keep a more expensive version of this SureFire flashlight on hand for emergencies. This particular flashlight has a dual-output LED 400-lumens light. In other words, it’s basically a spotlight. Used by law enforcement and the military, SureFire is widely considered one of the most powerful and reliable flashlight manufacturers in the world. As someone who has used one to light the entire main floor of our house during a storm, I can tell you first hand that it’s one of the brightest flashlights you’ll ever see. It’s also compact enough to slip easily into the bottom of your messenger bag or backpack. Click here to get one.

USB Flash Drive – Prices Vary

If you don’t carry a wireless portable hard drive, having a USB stick can be invaluable. Even if you do have a portable hard drive, keeping a USB stick on you is great if you have to give a file to someone else. Small, discreet and full of storage, it can be used to temporarily hold important files, photos, music or even videos. It’s perfect if you need to pass documents to a client or a colleague and they’re cheap enough that you don’t have to worry about getting the stick back. Click here to get the same 64GB GorillaDrive that I carry with me.

Camera

For anyone who enjoys taking high-quality photographs or needs a camera for work, the one on your cell phone doesn’t always cut it. Of course, you can’t be expected to keep a DSLR and all its lenses in your EDC. Therefore, having a compact camera that’s perfect for the amateur or the professional is often a must.

Fujifilm X100T 16MP Digital Camera

Fujifilm X100T 16MP Digital Camera – $1299

With multiple shooting modes in manual and automatic, the photographer has more options with this camera than anything else on the market. Not only does it shoot crystal clear pictures, but it also shoots 1080p video and is capable of using other lenses that connect with an adapter. Click here to get one.

Sony RX100 IV – $948

The same camera currently being used by Bernard at EverydayCarry.com, the Sony RX100 IV is the world’s first 20.1 MP 1″ Exmor RS stacked back-illuminated CMOS camera with high-resolution 4K video recording. It’s basically a beast in a tiny body. It fits easily into any briefcase or backpack and is ideal for the amateur photographer, the blogger, reporters or even as a backup for the professional photographer. Click here to get yours today.

Tablet

Laptops are great, but as an EDC item, they can get a bit bulky. In today’s world, you can do almost anything on a tablet that you can on a laptop. In fact, I often prefer to use my iPad over my MacBook, and it’s easier to take with me when I’m on assignment or a day trip. Ideal for working, watching movies, playing games or just reading the news. Tablets are an EDC device that more and more men are carrying with them.

Apple iPad Air 2 64GB – $517

My personal choice, the Apple iPad is arguably the fastest and most technologically advanced tablet on the market. It needs no introduction. It’s small, it’s light, and it’s fast. If you don’t use a portable hard drive or the cloud, consider the 64GB, or you might run out of space rather quickly. Click here to get one.

Microsoft Surface Pro 4

Microsoft Surface Pro 4 – $988

Part laptop, part tablet, the Microsoft Surface Pro 4 is one of the most popular multi-platform devices sold today. With its laptop-quality power, it easily handles everything you need to do with its extremely high contrast screen and low glare so you can work through the day without straining your eyes. With a snap of the kickstand and keyboard, it changes position moving from a tablet to a laptop with the power and ease you expect. Perfect for the casual user, the student or the professional who doesn’t require an advanced system for video and photo editing or gaming. Click here to get yours today.

Portable Hard Drive

A must-have EDC essential for anyone working out of the office, a portable hard drive frees up space on your cell phone, tablet, and computer. If you don’t have the Colfax bag from Co-Alition, consider one of these hard drives to maximize your performance on the go, so you don’t have to worry about running out of space and having to delete things.

The Seagate Wireless Plus portable hard drive is a must have for EDC kits

Seagate Wireless Plus 2TB Portable Hard Drive – $149

Sent to me from Seagate for review, this hard drive is a lifesaver for someone who works from a variety of places as I do. One day I might be at the office whereas the next I could be working from home, a coffee shop or even the cabin. In fact, it’s not unusual for me to pull my car over to quickly jot some notes down, send off an email or even Skype with Sven Raphael Schneider and the GG team. Having a portable hard drive frees up much-needed space on all my devices and I no longer have to worry about running out of space or having to go through my files to figure out what I can delete and what I can’t live without. It’s also great at home because it pairs with my LG Smart TV so we can store media files like family photographs, movies, and music on the drive. If I have to give a presentation, I can store it on the go, and when I’m editing images for these articles, they sit neatly in a folder on the drive. It is arguably one of the most important things I carry. To get yours, click here.

WD My Passport 2TB Ultra Portable External Hard Drive – $85

Less expensive, but just as powerful, this is the hard drive I carried with me before Seagate. In fact, it’s still in use, and I often transfer files from my WD My Cloud that sits in my office. If you’re looking for a really good-quality drive that can fit into any pack and works flawlessly every time, this is a great pick. Click here to get the hard drive or click here to get the My Cloud, which doesn’t go with you, but is a great device to have.

Other EDC Items

Of course, there are numerous EDC essentials we haven’t listed and to do so would require an even longer list. Some small items you may want to consider carrying with you include, but aren’t limited to:

– Dental Floss
– Moisturizing Lotion
– Breath Mints
– A Pocket Comb or Moustache Comb
– Tylenol
– First Aid Kit
– Travel Manicure Kit
– Travel Sewing Kit
– Toothbrush and Toothpaste

Urban vs Suburban Environments

It’s important to select the items in your EDC kit based on where you live and what you’ll need on a daily basis. The requirements of a farmer living in the country will be far different than the lawyer living in the city. It becomes up to you to figure out what you need, what you can legally carry and to select a method of carrying them that compliments your style. Some men opt to carry just a few items like Sven Raphael Schneider whereas others carry thirty or forty items. The point is finding what works for you and then revising it as your needs change. Will you be carrying it in a backpack because you’re an IT specialist who takes the subway to work? In a briefcase because you’re an accountant for a large firm? Or perhaps just in your suit pockets because you prefer not to carry a bag? What you carry and how you carry it is up to you. For more inspiration and to find out what other men are carrying with them, visit EverydayCarry.com

What are your EDC essentials? Send us a pic and maybe we’ll feature it in our next article on everyday carry essentials.

In 2012, we looked closely at the men’s tuxedos at the Oscars and it seems like 2014 was another low point and now we take a look at 2016. And since just critiquing is easy, we also provide a short guide on how a tuxedo should be worn, followed by good & bad examples from the Academy Awards ceremonies.

Although I am personally not a fan of award ceremonies, I thought it would be interesting to look at the evening attire worn by the gentlemen. These days, celebrities are among the few people around who have reason to don a tuxedo frequently. So, how did they do? In the past, I have seen everything from funny to unique, flamboyant to spot on.

Men’s Black Tie at the Oscars 2016

Interestingly, most men skipped a cummerbund or evening vest for their black tie outfits in 2016. Leaving your waistband exposed on a black tie outfit simply exudes a lack of style and attention to detail, which is why you should always wear one or the other. Also never wear a belt, and go with sideadjusters or suspenders instead because it will make the cummerbund or vest look bad.

Although some men wore penny loafers, or tassel loafers with their tuxedo, most wore oxfords and some even patent leather oxfords. Some men even wore stylish wide evening shoelaces and most men wore a white pocket square. A boutonniere would have certainly helped to elevate the look even further.

Also, studs have been surprisingly popular even though some were quite big. Likewise, the shawl collar seems to be a popular trend in line with navy blue or midnight blue.

Overall, the level is not very high and many mistakes were made. Please click through the gallery to learn all about the details DO’s but mostly DON’Ts.

Men’s Tuxedos at the Oscars 2014

Pharrel Williams showed up in a tuxedo jacket with shorts. While this is certainly attention grabbing, I doubt this find will find many followers. Interestingly, he went to the lengths of picking out shirts studs and opted for a jacket with double button.

Kevin Spacey is one of my favorite actors and in House of Cards, he really shows why. However when it comes to clothes, he has never been somebody I looked up to because his suits were mostly average in fit and they lacked details. This time he choose a dark blue tuxedo and while I like the color the poor execution with pre-tied bow tie and big wristwatch and poor fit ruin the outfit for me.

The fit of Chiwetel Ejiofor’s tuxedo is decent, the bow tie looks interesting, and if you disregard the long sleeves and the wristwatch, this look could have been great if he had worn a vest or cummerbund.

Brad Pitt wore a noteworthy shawl collar tuxedo with grosgrain faced lapels. His shirt features regular mother of pearl buttons that remind me too much of a day shirt even though it was made of marcella piqué.

Darren de Gallo choose a 2 button peaked lapel tuxedo without pocket square and buttonhole on the lapel. Unfortunately, you can see his shirt peaking out but that’s what happens if you skip the waistcoat or cummerbund.

Steve McQueen pulled of an interestingly knotted bow tie and a peak lapel with a bespoke feel.

Jonah Hill pulled off a more classic look than two years ago in regard to his colors but tuxedos should neither have notch lapels nor flap pockets.

The same is true for Mr. Sudeikis. He even buttoned both of the front buttons which you should never do if the jacket has such a low buttoning point. Overall, this Prada outfit is really underwhelming, but what can you expect from a big fashion house these days…

Jared Leto and Matthew McConaughey wore off white dinner jackets and while this is per se a good thing, the fit of Matthew McConaughey’s jacket was very poor and looked like it came just from the rental store. A lapel should never fold like that and it just makes you look cheap. Jared Leto’s jacket fit better, but the red pre-tied bow tie and the flaps are two aspects he could have done better.

Of all these pictures, Tom Ford is once again the best dressed, however he wasn’t at the Oscars but at the Vanity Oscars Party. His lapels are really wide but that is his style.

The Tuxedo

First of all, it is not surprising to see a complete absence of white tie – though, with so many long evening dresses, the dinner jacket / tuxedo would traditionally not be considered to be appropriate attire for such an event. Nevertheless, the tuxedo is as formal as it gets during the Oscars, with regards to men’s clothing.

How To Wear A Tuxedo

Generally, there are a number of guidelines for what a proper tuxedo should look like:

1. Black or midnight blue cloth – often barathea or plain cloth, sometimes with a bit of mohair for an elegant sheen
2. Classic options are: (1) Peaked lapels covered in black silk satin, repp or moiré with a single button or a double-breasted front, or (2) a shawl collar with black silk and single button closure
3. Ventless Jacket
4. Cummerbund or waistcoat with a single-button jacket
5. Neither a cummerbund nor a waistcoat with a double-breasted jacket, but then you must not unbutton it – the waist must never be exposed!
6. Wear suspenders – never a belt!
7. A galon stripe on the side of the trousers
8. Jetted pockets – no flaps, because these are informal.
9. Pocket square – traditionally in white linen, but a splash of color in silk or linen is also fine
10. White or ivory shirt with double cuffs and a turn down collar with pleats, a starched, marcella piqué front or a fly front if no studs are available
11. Black silk bow tie – matching the lapel
12. A boutonniere in the lapel – a highly overlooked but great finishing detail
13. Black over-the-calf socks made of pure silk.
14. Black plain patent leather oxford shoes (without a captoe / brogues)  or plain opera pumps

Although these guidelines can be flexible – just look at Nick Foulkes in his superb velvet evening attire or 82 year old oscar winner Christopher Plummer in his navy velvet smoking jacket – most men will look unfavorable or even ridiculous if they try to deviate too much from these classic standards. However, I can only encourage you to try new things. Usually, it is best to start with one element at the time, and make sure you do not go wild with your colors. A subtly patterned cummerbund, vividly colored socks or a red carnation are great added details!

My favorite black tie outfit from recent years was worn by Tom Ford: He wore an interesting shawl collar jacket in black. Just look at the end of the lapels and compare them to other shawl collar jackets – it is more rounded and gives him a special look without being ostentatious. In combination with the turn back cuffs, it looks like this coat was made in the late 1950’s. The buttons are covered with silk and he opted for 5 sleeve buttons in place of the traditional 4, leaving the last button rakishly undone. His turn down collar shirt features three diamond studs and a larger butterfly bow tie. With a white pocket square and a white carnation boutonniere in his lapel, he looks the part without deviating from the aforementioned guidelines.

How Not To Wear A Tuxedo

In Hollywood, most men don’t seem to care about classic men’s style and so the outcome is often funny or even gaudy – even Prince William has troubles when it comes to black tie attire. I can attribute some of the strange ensembles to the couture houses; simply choosing the brand du jour does not guarantee an elegant combination or well-tailored cut.

Although it is much easier to look well-dressed in a tuxedo, there are many men at the Oscars who simply fall short. So, here is a selected overview of the outfits and what could be improved.

Zachary Quinto wears a tuxedo jacket with flaps and slim shawl collar. Unfortunately, he does not have enough room in his chest, which is why the chest opens up. George Clooney wears a notched lapel tuxedo and  Judd Apatow forgot his cummerbund or vest. Jonah Hill tries to pull of a monochromatic look, as his dark purple shirt and bow tie are barely discernible from his black tux. Since he does not wear suspenders, the fullness of his trousers makes him look unfortunate.

Matthew Lillard skipped his cummerbund, wears his sleeves too long and combines it with boxy shoes – so it looks like he wears an ill-fitting rental tuxedo. Robert Forster wears cap toe shoes, but otherwise he looks excellent.

Andrew Garfield chose to wear low rise trousers and skip the cummerbund, which exposes his waistband and makes his legs look shorter. Also, he opted for full brogue patent leather oxford shoes – bummer.

Christian Bale shows us another monochromatic look with black shirt, necktie, waistcoat, shawl collar and pocket flaps. Each to his own, but I cannot say that I like it. Mark Wahlberg next to him skipped the pocket square for a pair of sunglasses. A tuxedo is for the evening, so you should be able to leave your sunglasses at home.

Russel Brand wore a dark navy velveteen suit with black lapels, black long skinny tie and what looks like a plaid shirt. Not my cup of tea but nevertheless interesting.

Overall, it seems like the tuxedos look worse every year – do you agree? What was your favorite men’s tuxedo at the Oscars 2014?

Scarves, have been a staple in men’s clothing for more than two thousand years. Historically worn by some of our world’s most prolific leaders, the scarf, a profound piece of neckwear has graced our necks for as long or longer

than neckties, bow ties and cravats. In this scarf guide, you will learn everything about the history, materials, and qualities, except how to tie a scarf, you can learn that here.

The History of the Scarf

The scarf certainly has some religious connotations but has also enjoyed use for warmth, cleanliness and of course fashion. While many credit its history to use by the Terracotta soldiers in China, the scarf dates all the way back to ancient Rome where it was originally called a Sudarium, literally translated to mean “sweat cloth”. It was used in Rome for cleanliness, and the cloth scarf was often worn tied to the waist of the man, or loosely wrapped around the neck on warmer days. In the event of a formal affair, the scarf was almost always worn, and various grades of cloth could easily separate the affluent and wealthy members of society from the rest. The scarf was now seen on a daily basis as men would continually wear them out, both for cleanliness, but now, due to the separation of class, as a way to showcase their status or elitism in society.

By the third century BC, the appeal and popularity of the Roman introduced scarf had made its way to China and was now being worn by the Terracotta soldiers of the Qin Shi Huang dynasty as a form of military garb in used as a way to discern the soldiers rank, based on the style or fashion of the scarf.

By the end of the nineteenth century, scarves had gone from a regular accessory worn by men and women to one of the most essential forms of neckwear worn on a daily basis by men of all classes. Since then, scarves have been a globally popular fashion accessory for men and today still provide the warmth, religious and protective qualities of a bygone era.

Popularized by Hollywood celebrities in movies and premieres, the scarf was seen on a regular basis draped loosely around the neck of both stars and starlets. As a contributing factor causing increased popularity, brands have popped up internationally dedicating themselves to the manufacturing of scarves either exclusively or in addition to other fashion lines. We only have to look at some of the most well-known brands in America such as Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, and J. Press to see that even the largest haberdashers have introduced lines of scarves. Intertwine that with online retailers and makers such as scarf.com and Fort Belvedere.

Today, men wear scarves in various climate conditions, as both an accessory and protective layer during the cold winter months, and strictly as a fashionable accessory in warmer climates. In fact, it’s not unusual to see men strolling Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills on a warm summer day, decked out in a linen or cotton scarf accompanying their scarf. In addition, it’s perfectly normal to see a man wearing a white or colored formal scarf draped over the nape of his neck at the opera or another black tie affair. For most men, a single scarf is no longer the norm. Many men own multiple scarves in various colors, patterns and made from many different fabrics.

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Reversible Scarf in Dark Green & Red Silk Wool Motif & Check – Fort Belvedere

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Ivory Spray Rose Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

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Reversible Scarf in Green & Blue Silk Wool Paisley & Stripes – Fort Belvedere

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Blue Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Silk Fort Belvedere

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Reversible Scarf in Royal Blue & Red Silk Wool Polka Paisley & Glen Check – Fort Belvedere

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Edelweiss Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Types of Scarves

There are many styles of scarves in a wide variety of shapes, patterns and colors, made from many different types of materials.

There are five primary categories that scarves fit into when we discuss men’s attire. They are the following:

Casual / Winter Scarf

Often worn for protection from the elements, these scarves are made primarily of wool, cashmere, alpaca or polyester and are intended to be worn during the cold winter months. They can be printed or in various patterns and are often knitted and thick to the touch.

Sport Scarf

Often made of a thinner, yet cold resistant material, many companies such as UnderArmor, Reebok, and Nike make these winter scarves for winter athletes. These scarves are often made of a blend of materials and provide fairly high resistance to wind, snow, and temperature. Many of these scarves are circular and don’t need to be wrapped. This prevents the scarf from untangling and causing potential injury or death to athletes such as skaters, skiers and snowboarders. They are usually quite snug and can be pulled up to cover the mouth and nose and sometimes even the ears. In addition to being worn by professional and amateur athletes, these scarves are very popular with parents and children due to their ease of use and limited tangling capabilities making them a safer alternative for active play.

Business Casual Scarf

These scarves are usually quite thin similar to the sports scarves but made in the same fashion as the casual scarf, in other words – long and rectangular.

Often featuring checks, paisley or other geometric prints, these scarves are more traditional and are intended to be paired with business or semi-casual attire. These scarves are made from a variety of materials and can be worn in the winter or summer months. For warmer climates, these scarves are often made of cotton, jersey, cashmere, satin, silk, linen or pashmina which is a cashmere wool from the Pashmina goat. For cooler climates, wool, cashmere, alpaca and poly-blend materials are particularly popular. Often materials will be woven together to create a blended scarf which can provide more a more delicate touch with greater resistance to the inclement weather. For example, in Canada, cashmere and wool blended scarves are particularly popular for men as they are soft and thin from the cashmere wool, yet contain the protection of the coarser wool.

The Dress Scarf

Not quite the formal scarf, or the daywear, the evening scarf is an elegant addition to any gentleman’s topcoat or overcoat. Made of cashmere, alpaca, or even merino wool, the evening scarf is the middle sibling in the elegant scarf trifecta. Reversible or not, it is a conservative, sometimes with checks, plaids or paisley prints.

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Magenta Pink Dahlia Silk Boutonniere Buttonhole Lapel Flower – Fort Belvedere

Formal Evening Scarf

Often worn with a tuxedo ortailcoat, the formal scarf is a fringed rectangular scarf usually made of silk satin and in most cases, made in black, white  or a combination thereof. They often feature hand-knotted fringes and unlike other scarves, are not wrapped, but draped over the back of the neck and sometimes thrown over the shoulder.

Fashion / Summer Scarf

Designed specifically for use as a fashionable accessory, these scarves are often made of linen, cotton, silk, seersucker or pashmina and are worn strictly as a fashion statement and not generally as a protective layer to resist wind, snow or cold. Often worn with both casual and business attire, they feature a wide range of prints or textures.

Elegant Reversible Scarf

The reversible scarf, also known by the British as a tubular scarf, is bar none, one of the most elegant forms of neckwear for warmth. With two distinct patterns, woven together in harmony, reversible scarves are an gracefully elegant way of accessorizing your topcoat. Fort Belvedere has a resplendent selection offered in silk and wool combinations that will truly make a fashion statement.

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Peccary Gloves in Chamois Yellow with Button & Lining Fort Belvedere

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Double Sided Scarf in Blue Silk Wool Paisley & Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Double Sided Scarf in Red Silk Wool Paisley & Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Double Sided Scarf in Green & Blue Silk Wool Paisley & Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Double Sided Scarf in Brown Silk Wool Paisley & Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Peccary Gloves in Gray with Button & Alpaca Lining Fort Belvedere

Scarf Materials

Scarves as a whole can be made of a wide variety of materials and fabrics. For mens scarves, the following materials are the ones most commonly used in construction of the retangular scarf:

Polyester

The least admirable material possibly of all time, while there are both natural and synthetic forms of polyester, in most cases, during the manufacturing of clothing, it’s the synthetic variant being predominantly used. Despite polyester being viewed as an inferior material to that of naturally woven fibers like cotton and wool, the polyester woven scarves or polyblend scarves do have some exceptional qualities often incapable of being achieved when using an all natural fibre.

Polyester scarves benefit from superior resistance to inclement weather with a far greater success rate when it comes to repelling water, wind and snow. In addition, they offer exceptional wrinkle resistance, can be construed as more durable than many or most of the their counterparts and offer high color retention, resulting in the scarf lasting much longer under the extreme elements.It is for these reasons in particular that polyester and poly-blend scarves are incredibly popular with children and professional athletes. In some instances, since polyester is considered a less elegant material, it is often woven with natural fibers which

It is for these reasons in particular that polyester and poly-blend scarves are incredibly popular with children and professional athletes. In some instances, since polyester is considered a less elegant material, it is often blended with natural fibers which provides the polyester based scarf with other visual and textural properties normally not found with synthetic polyester.

Just as a 100% polyester bow tie is easy to spot in comparison to a silk bow tie, a scarf made exclusively of polyester is just as easy to differentiate from a silk scarf. By blending the polyester with silk, cotton or other natural fibers, you can obtain what’s often called “China Silk”.

Jersey

Jersey is most often used in the production of feminine scarves as its conducive to embellishments, rather than just prints or textures. It holds sequins, beads and other externally sewn embellishments quite well as it’s a fairly thin and stretchy cotton. Despite being used predominantly for womens apparel, it has recently and historically been used by men, especially in warmer Middle East climates and can often be seen on some middle eastern members of the royal family.

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Cashmere Scarf in Solid Royal Blue – Fort Belvedere

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Pure Cashmere Scarf in Solid Red – Fort Belvedere

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Cashmere Scarf in Solid Havelock Blue – Fort Belvedere

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Cashmere Scarf in Solid Sunflower Orange – Fort Belvedere

Cashmere

An exquisitely soft and luxurious wool, cashmere is woven from from the yarn of fine underhair of the cashmere goat. Each goat produces only 150 – 200 grams a year, which is just enough for a single scarf. Unlike, many other materials it actually becomes softer over time and is widely considered the gold standard for many luxury articles of clothing from sweaters to scarves and socks. Despite being very lightweight, it still maintains adequate protection from the cold. It is one fabric often blended with other wools or even polyester, because of its price. However, always bear in mind that you can find huge difference in the quality of cashmere.

At Fort Belvedere, we source only high-quality cashmere yarns. The best quality cashmere is usually between 14 and 16.5 microns thick, which is one of the reasons for its softness. With a  staple length of 35 – 50mm, we ensure that the scarf won’t pill easily, so you can wear it for years to come. Cashmere from Iran (17.5 – 19 micron) and Afghanistan (16.5-18 micron) is less desireable because it is rougher and pills more easily. Also, bear in mind that most inexpensive cashmere scarves are woven from the short 2nd or 3rd quality cashmere yarn, that was spun from very short cashmere hair. Moreover, natural white and lighter colored cashmere is much more expensive than darker grayish or brown cashmere, because only the lighter colored underhair can be dyed into our vivid colors. The darker fibers can only be used for dark colors.

While top quality cashmere typically features less than 0.5% of  guard hair, cheaper quality scarves often contain more than 5% of guard hair, which is rougher and less desirable. In the next step, Fort Belvederecashmere fibers are then treated with natural thistles, which roughen up the surface of the scarf to create a particularly soft feel. Using real thistles is costly, but this traditional method guarantees top quality. When we examined Scottish cashmere scarves, which are often advertised as premium quality, we learned that thistles are not used anymore which reveals a decline in quality. After a Fort Belvedere scarves are woven, they undergo the milling process, which provides the cashmere with fullness and softness. Another part of this process is done the traditional way, employing wooden rollers. Of course, every scarf undergoes extensive Quality Control by skilled weavers, in order to assure you receive the highest quality Fort Belvedere cashmere scarf.

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Alpaca Scarf Double Sided in Blue & Grey – Fort Belvedere

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Alpaca Scarf with Grey & Red Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Alpaca Scarf with Grey & White Plaid Fort Belvedere

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Alpaca Scarf with Orange, Red & Yellow Plaid – Fort Belvedere

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Alpaca Scarf with Light Brown Plaid – Fort Belvedere

Alpaca

Often confused both with a camel and a llama, the Alpaca is a domesticated camelid from South America. The wool of the alpaca is similar to the sheep but far more luxurious and significantly warmer, because the fibers are hollow and have an air chamber. It has a silky shine to it and is one of my favorite natural fibers. The best alpaca qualities in the world come from Peru and are designated as baby & royal baby Alpaca indicating a thicknesses between 19 – 22 micron. Obviously this is thicker than the best cashmere qualities, but due to the softer surface of Alpaca fibers it feels almost as soft as the best cashmere qualities. Therefore Alpaca scarves are the perfect companion if you want a warm but soft scarf.

Alpaca comes in 24 natural colors, with white being the most popular because it can be dyed in the most shades. Generally, the natural white fibers are of slightly superior quality, which is why Fort Belvedere only uses white fibers. Alpaca does not have lanolin usually found in wool or cashmere, which makes it the perfect material for people otherwise allergic to wool or animal hair.

Silk

A natural fiber, it’s harvested from the larvae cocoons of the mulberry silkworm. One of the most elegantly viewed fibers in the world, silk is the basis for the vast majority of high-quality accessories and all forms of neckwear. When buying a bow tie, neck tie or cravat, you certainly want to seek out 100% silk made ties unless of course you’re specifically looking for something like a cotton or linen tie for a summer ensemble. Silk is often imitated but never duplicated. It can be shiny or matte but is always exquisite and delicately refined. When it comes to scarves, silk can be found as the basis for many formal scarves that are paired gracefully with a dinner jacket or tails. Here you can see how silk screen printing is done – every color needs an individual screen, so the more colors a design has, the more complicated and labor intensive it is.

Cotton

Not often found in scarves intended for practical purpose, cotton is a cool and light fabric that is perfect for warmer climates due to its breathability. Often found in the cooler, yet warm climates of Southern California, cotton scarves are incredibly popular with the hipster demographic, but also the dandies of today and businessmen looking to impart some personal flair into an otherwise monotonous wardrobe.

Linen

Derived from the flax plant, linen is without question, equivocation or mental reservation, the lightest and coolest fabric for fashionable scarves. We know linen from the suits, pants and shirts we wear in the summer and the Irish linen handkerchiefs we carry in our pockets. For fashion scarves in the summer months or warm climates, it’s tough to beat linen. In addition, linen can actually help to keep you cooler under the hot sun and provide some protection for your skin.

Pashmina

Originally, produced using the delicate under hair of goats from the Kashmir region in India, pashmina used to be a very thin, delicately woven and luxurious fabric. Typically worn by women, pashmina has made a recent transfer into men’s fashion and is no longer exclusive to the square feminine scarves, despite that being its predominant use. Today, many scarves are advertised as pashmina, but the huge problem is that it is not a protected term and as such anything can be sold to you as pashmina. At best, you will end up with inferior cashmere or wool that is blended with silk and at worst, you get something made out of the viscose-polyester blend. In any major city in the world, you will find the street vendors offering you pashmina scarves for $5. In fact, my mother in law once brought back a Pashmina scarf from Italy, and when my wife an I went to Germany later, we saw the same scarf from another vendor. Basically, these items are produced in one big batch from inferior materials and then sold across the globe. As such we can only recommend staying away from anything advertised as pashmina because in 99.9% of the cases it is not the real thing. If you can get a little sample, you can do a burn test.

Fleece

When it comes to scarves, fleece is often called “Polar Fleece” and is widely known for its warming capabilities and resistance to natural elements including water, wind and cold. Typically, polar fleece is made of synthetic materials. However, actual fleece is woven from the shaved coat of the sheep or long-haired goat before it’s been made into a yarn or thread. Today, a scarf designated as fleece is made of an artificial fiber 99.999% of the time. However we suggest to always go with natural hair, such as alpaca, silk or cashmere.

Wool

From the fleece of the sheep and a range of other animals, wool comes in a variety of textures and styles depending on how its woven, but is traditionally very warm and durable. Often used for winter scarves, the wool is an excellent source of warmth and protection against a wide variety of elements. Today, wool is one of the most common materials found in scarves the world over.

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Reversible Scarf in Burnt Orange, Red & Blue Silk Wool Pattern & Checks – Fort Belvedere

How to Spot a Quality Scarf

1. Look at the Material composition tag. That will weed out all the artificial fibers. If it says wool or cashmere etc. touch it and see if you like it. Better cashmere qualities are softer than inferior ones, however, sometimes inferior qualities are rather soft as well, but they will cause pilling after a few times of wear. Unfortunately, there is no way for you to figure that out before you buy.

2. Size matters: Most men’s scarves are sized 150 cm x 30 cm/60″ x 12″. The problem is, that this is simply too short to tie scarves properly. as such, the ideal dimensions for a cashmere, wool or Alpaca scarf  are 180 cm x 30 cm/72″ x 12″. A thinner silk scarf can be 2-3  inches wider or longer, but that’s about it. Otherwise it is too bulky around your neck

3. Fringes: It’s a matter of preference if you want fringes on your scarf are not. Both is perfectly fine, and while cashmere, wool, and alpaca scarves traditionally come with fringes, silk scarves don’t, which is why they have to be added in a separate step.

4. Burn Test. Unfortunately, many scarves are mislabelled, and sometimes they contain artificial fibers although the tag claims, 100% silk, pashmina, silk, wool, etc. The only practical way to know the material composition is to have it tested in a lab which is time intensive and costly. If you have a little sample or a fringe, you can always do the burn test. Natural materials burn differently and smell differently. Some scarves may be blended, but you will always know if you have some artificial fibers in your scarf if it looks like it is melting and if it smells like burned plastic.

How To Tie A Scarf

Learn how to tie a scarf in this video by Sven Raphael Schneider – the founder of the Gentleman’s Gazette & Fort Belvedere.

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Reversible Scarf in Burgundy Red & Blue Silk Wool Motifs & Paisley – Fort Belvedere

Scarf Maintenance

Once you are done wearing your scarf, fold it and let it lay flat or hang, but don’t just stuff it on your coat pocket. We find folding is the easiest, most convenient way. When you are out and about, hang the scarf over the coat hanger and don’t just stuff it in your sleeve because that’s how most scarves get lost. If your scarf gets wrinkles, you can steam iron it gently at low heat. If you want to ensure not to ruin the surface, use a thin cotton cloth in between the iron and the scarf. Sometime simple steam from a steamer or an iron will do the trick.

Don’t wash your scarves in the laundry, even though some newer machines have gentle cycles and cashmere programs. Either bring them to the dry-cleaner or handwash the scarf using supersaturated liquid soap. Gently press the water from washed cashmere (do not wring it) and let it air-dry hanging up. The weight of the water will ensure it will dry wrinkle-free. Do not put it in the clothes dryer!

Conclusion

Scarves have long been an integral and important part of neckwear for both men and women. Today, just as in past years, the scarf is an exceptionally popular way for men to add personal flair to their wardrobe. While women are blessed with a multitude of accessories, we as men tend to have a more traditional wardrobe that prevents our personality from shining through. Scarves, in addition to providing warmth, are an exceptional way to enhance a wardrobe and add that personality to your attire.

This article was written by Sven Raphael Schneider and J.A. Shapira.